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From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #479
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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, December 29 1999 Volume 03 : Number 479



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - 79 F250 crewcab 4x4
FTE 61-79 - Ballast Resistor
FTE 61-79 - Batteries in Parallel
RE: FTE 61-79 - Dexron vs Ford ATF
Re: FTE 61-79 - Running 205 TC backwards in low range.
FTE 61-79 - Gas fires
RE: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey
FTE 61-79 - Re: truck survey
FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: truck survey
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: truck survey
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: truck survey
RE: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco
Re: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco
FTE 61-79 - RE: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s
FTE 61-79 - Re: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s
FTE 61-79 - Re: Front axle rebuild - Update
Re: FTE 61-79 - 69 Bronco 4x4 Drivetrain into 67 Econoline Supervan?
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s
RE: FTE 61-79 - No oil pressure...could use a little advise.
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re - Ballast Resistor?
Re: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s
FTE 61-79 - '74 F350 Super Camper Special
FTE 61-79 - '74 F350 Super Camper Special (resend)
FTE 61-79 - '79 f100 4x4
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s
RE: FTE 61-79 - sounds like a deisel
Re: FTE 61-79 - Archive lists
RE: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco
Re: FTE 61-79 - Stalling Beast
FTE 61-79 - Thanks/Paul hits it on the nose/waterpump
Re: FTE 61-79 - No oil pressure...could use a little advise.
FTE 61-79 - radius arm bushings
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dexron vs Ford ATF
Re: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco
FTE 61-79 - 460 & C6 FOR SALE
FTE 61-79 - Truck survey
Re: FTE 61-79 - '74 F350 Super Camper Special
Re: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ballast Resistor
FTE 61-79 - truck use survey
FTE 61-79 - answers to survey
FTE 61-79 - Overheating
Re: FTE 61-79 - answers to survey

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 08:29:20 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 79 F250 crewcab 4x4

> so when i'm
> through with it i'll have maybe 2500.00 in it and some labor. its
> not real
> pretty, but its pretty clean underneath. with a paint job it will
> look nice.

Sounds like some of the guys have all the luck ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 09:33:37 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ballast Resistor

Burt,

It is a Mallory Unilite distributor. Now, I see where some people are reading
8V at the coil, and other people say that this voltage will constantly be
varying between about 12 and 9, and the "averaged" reading displayed on the
meter will be about 10-1/2V (this is what I read).

The reason for all of this is that Mallory says the voltage shouldn't exceed
about 9V fo these units....I've had one burn out a couple of years ago, I'm
just wondering if I'm on "borrowed time" with the unit now if I have too much
voltage being applied.

So, I'm using a Fluke DVM to monitor the voltage....should it really be 10.5,
or hold constant at 8????

CJ



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 09:33:43 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Batteries in Parallel

John,

The reason for this question was that I have been running this setup for
probably 10 years now, and I had installed a new set of Exide batteries
almost exactly 4 years ago. These were the 84 month warranty units. Well,
just recently, they started dying on me (they were having a tough time
cranking against the 10:1 compression ratio in this 428), so I was wondering
if by me hooking them in parallel, I had inadverdently reduced their
lifespan.

Well, sure enough, I took them back to Checker, and they tested them and they
were bad.....so, they replaced them, but at a "pro-rated" rate....

In the meantime, I've had two or three people tell me that Exide batteries
don't really seem to last very long, and I should look into either Interstate
or Optima's....but since I still had some warranty on these, I went ahead
with another set of Exides....

I just didn't know if it was a good idea to put a diode or some other thing
in between the units to cut down on any problems....

CJ


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 08:34:59 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Dexron vs Ford ATF

> > To me a harder shift means
> > more wear and
> > tear.

> Believe it or not, harder shifts actually mean less wear... If a tranny
> shifts slow and smooth, the bands are engaging slowly


Of course that's on the tranny side of things that that's true ... hammering
the crap out of your u-joints and drive shafts with a hard shift is always
good for them too right ? ;)

I don't think the real question is how hard it shifts as to how quick it
shifts, I don't care if my truck jumps a little bit, just as long as it
grabs the gear when it needs it ... no shift kit in mine, but it pulls
pretty okay anyway ;)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 10:07:28 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Running 205 TC backwards in low range.

canzus seanet.com wrote:
>
> At 08:05 AM 22:12:99 -0500, James Oxley wrote:
>
> > Mog axles are 3.54 ring and pinion, with 2.13 hub reduction. That is a
> >7.54 gear. Assuming a 205 in LR is 1.9 or 2.0, that would leave me with
> >about a 3.96 (or 3.73) gear. With a 36 or 38 inch tire and a mildy built
> >400, it should be fine for normal street driving. No rocket, but fast
> >enough :-)
> >
>
> If you mount the 205 upside down, you could use the front drive
> to run a PTO hydraulic unit, for a hydraulic winch or other toy
> couldnt ya??
>

Yeah, I guess I could. Others have said I don't need to run it upside
down, which makes sense, just backwards, so it comes down on pass side
instead of drivers side.

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 07:08:26 -0800
From: "Scott Jensen" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gas fires

I've noticed that a few have solved the problem of starting brush fires by
standing back when lighting the gas. This never worked very well for me. So
now I keep a little engine oil around for camping trips or what ever. Amaze
your friends when you brush the wet snow off the wood and have the campfire
blazing in 5 minutes.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 07:29:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Kordik yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey

1. What year and model truck do you have?
71 F250 4X4
2. Do you drive it everyday or is it a "hobby" truck?
Driven 2-3 times a week
3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a
routine basis?
I don't know about routine. I just drove it
non-stop (except for gas) from Colorado to Wisconsin
two weeks ago. It is less an issue of reliability and
more an issue of comfort and gas mileage.

Steve Kordik
71 F250 4X4
98 E350 Super Club Wagon
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 10:57:37 -0500
From: Steve Schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: truck survey

>
>
> 1. What year and model truck do you have?

1a. Well, the title says it is a 77 F-150 Supercab 2wd. Actually it has the frame
of a 78 F-250 4x4 Camper Special, cab of the 77, front clip from a 79, bed from a 74
with 2 filler doors added, passenger side door from a 75, motor from a 76 LTD, seat
from a 96 etc.
1b. 76 F-350 Crew cab

>
> 2. Which of the following best describes your truck:

2a. Definitely not stock in any regard. Definitely an shock to the eyes
(yellow/purple) even from 200 feet. Fairly clean body, frame painted to match body,
mechanically sound, Definitely does not look 22 years old, but not brand new.
2b. Frame off restore, my way.

> 3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?

3a. With out hesitation. Last summer it went to Philly (about 400 miles 1 way)
with my 4500# T-bird behind it, to New York City (450 miles 1 way) to pick up an 89
T-bird, and to Lexington Ky (500 miles 1 way) to pick up a 39 Ford. I averaged
about 14 mpg on all. The Ky trip I had 2 break downs. I changed front wheel
bearing in a parking lot in Cincci. OH, and had to swap distributors about a mile
from home when the gear pin moved and the timing changed.

3b. This is the reason for building the "new" truck.

Steve S.
77 F-250 Supercab
76 F-350 Crew cab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 10:58:50 -0500
From: joe delaurentis p3.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco

Group,
my 92 Bronco(351) i just put on a new water pump, after doing this I
lost all me heat
Luke warm if that....I have changed the thermostat 3 months ago, so i'm
ruling that
out, i had blazing heat with the leaking old water pump...I have also
bled the heater
core per Ford Shop manual..and still have luke warm heat....Now the
gauge iw
working and saying the motor is warm...Were should i look
next????Radiator cap???But what is strange is it all worked until i
changed pumps?!
Help in pennsylvania(boy is it cold out)

- --
Joe
68 4x4 390 c6- Np 205 Dana 44 with Disc Brakes,
Since Ford Didn't build em this way in 68, I'll make my own!


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 08:12:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Kordik yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: truck survey

This is an update to my previous post:

>2. Which of the following best describes your truck:

C. Running truck with decent body and mostly
original components but needs work.
No rust, mechanically pretty sound. All original. A
dented fender and missing some trim. Could use new
paint. The truck has been on my FIL's ranch in
Colorado for the last 25 years and has sat more than
it has been driven.

Steve Kordik
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://messenger.yahoo.com
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 08:12:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Kordik yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: truck survey

This is an update to my previous post:

>2. Which of the following best describes your truck:

C. Running truck with decent body and mostly
original components but needs work.
No rust, mechanically pretty sound. All original. A
dented fender and missing some trim. Could use new
paint. The truck has been on my FIL's ranch in
Colorado for the last 25 years and has sat more than
it has been driven.

Steve Kordik
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://messenger.yahoo.com
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 08:12:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Kordik yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: truck survey

This is an update to my previous post:

>2. Which of the following best describes your truck:

C. Running truck with decent body and mostly
original components but needs work.
No rust, mechanically pretty sound. All original. A
dented fender and missing some trim. Could use new
paint. The truck has been on my FIL's ranch in
Colorado for the last 25 years and has sat more than
it has been driven.

Steve Kordik


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 10:14:38 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco

> Were should i look
> next????Radiator cap???But what is strange is it all worked until i
> changed pumps?!
> Help in pennsylvania(boy is it cold out)
>

Did you do the change yourself ? Did you find a water restricter in one of
the heater hoses off the pump ? If that fell out or got lodged so its
clogged you won't get any heat ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 10:25:47 -0600
From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco

Joe,
You might check the hose that leads to the heater core from the pump, there
may be blockage at the pump inside the nipple due to casting etc.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: joe delaurentis p3.net>
To: truck list <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 1999 9:58 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco


> Group,
> my 92 Bronco(351) i just put on a new water pump, after doing this I
> lost all me heat
> Luke warm if that....I have changed the thermostat 3 months ago, so i'm
> ruling that
> out, i had blazing heat with the leaking old water pump...I have also
> bled the heater
> core per Ford Shop manual..and still have luke warm heat....Now the
> gauge iw
> working and saying the motor is warm...Were should i look
> next????Radiator cap???But what is strange is it all worked until i
> changed pumps?!
> Help in pennsylvania(boy is it cold out)
>
> --
> Joe
> 68 4x4 390 c6- Np 205 Dana 44 with Disc Brakes,
> Since Ford Didn't build em this way in 68, I'll make my own!
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 08:19:33 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s

Gary Peters wrote:
> When you get ready to set them up in the axle you have to use
> a torque wrench on the top threaded sleeve and it takes a special
> tool to do it right. If you guess at this step you may cause your
> new joints to wear out prematurely. I can give you the exact
> sequence if you like.

Actually, I need more than that. I am unfamiliar with this. I
assumed the sleeve is used for alignment purposes. Does it have
something other than the ball joint nut that locks it down? Tell
me more! Oh, and yes, please give me the exact sequence.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
temporarily in live mode

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 08:21:03 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s

bronco66 wrote:
> A company called BC BRONCO'S makes a shim. It is a nice metal
> job fits really nicely. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bcbroncos.com/page6.html
> look here for info. I think they are like $16.

Thanks for the tip. Since I am eventually going to use a '79
tie rod, I am going to stick with the shim stock for now.

I did like the Tie-Rod-Over thing though.

If anyone else is interested, they mount the tie rod on top of
the knuckle arms, making it less vulnerable and reducing the
drag link angle.

I am not sure how this would work with all '79 parts since the
tapers would be the right size (can't use a bushing) and flipping
the tie rod would reverse the direction of the taper for the drag
link.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
temporarily in live mode

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 08:26:40 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Front axle rebuild - Update

Thanks for all the replys on this. And thanks, Bill for
pointing me to Tony's pictures. Right away I can see my '74
drag link will not work with a '79 tie rod. The attachment
points are quite a bit different. I would guess a '79 drag
link is about 6-8" longer. Also, Gary mentioned the taper
is different here too.

I checked out some prices yesterday. The best deal I found was
$338 for a complete tie rod and drag link. These are all Moog
parts which I figure are about the best I am going to find.
However, at that cost I think I am going to hold off and put
the old stuff back on until I can put away some more money and
do the complete steering setup.

Looks like I am going with polyurethane bushings. The rubber
ones are a little hard to find anyway.

The good news is, I got the carrier out and it is obvious
someone has been in there recently. The bearings and seals
look like new, as do the ring and pinion. You can see pry
marks from previous seal removing.

When I bought the truck it had a Mile Marker part time kit in
it. There was a MM hub on one side and one original Ford hub
on the other. I always wondered what happened to the other hub.
Because of recent posts on the subject, I'm now thinkin maybe
one of the MM hubs failed and caused the broken spider gears.
Does that sound reasonable?

Today I'll disassemble the carrier and determine what I need.
Seems like I might get away with just a spider gear set, a
cover gasket, some marking paint, and gear oil. :)


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
temporarily in live mode

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 08:26:46 -0800
From: Don Grossman pacific.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 69 Bronco 4x4 Drivetrain into 67 Econoline Supervan?

"T.Q. Dermako" wrote:
>
> Just out of curiosity, do y'all think it'll fit? I know there has got to be
> some modification to the chassis, but how much? The 302 should go right in
> w/crossmember changes. Help me out - nee to get this crazy idea out of my
> head.
>
> Tom


Not really so much of a crazy idea but you might want to go with running
gear from the F-100,150. the early bronco parts might not be wide enough
for your van. You could use the transmision and transfer case from the
bronco. Keep the van rear end and get the F series front axle parts.
Go FOR IT!

Don Grossman
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 10:28:34 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s

> Actually, I need more than that. I am unfamiliar with this. I
> assumed the sleeve is used for alignment purposes.

Yes, this thing shoudl be offset a degree or two, not really noticeable to
your eye ... the alignment shop will change it all anyway so getting it in
there and tight is really all you're concerned about ... they'll take care
of the rest ...

> Does it have
> something other than the ball joint nut that locks it down?

Mine had a wedge shaped shim that was hex shaped as well. it went between
the nut and the knuckle ... they didn't put it on one side when we did the
alignment and I think they've since been removed completely so I don't
really know their purpose ... there shouldn't really be anythign that would
loosen this nut anyway, the ball joint itself should be turning freely
enough that the sleeve won't move ...

> me more! Oh, and yes, please give me the exact sequence.
>

Grab a chilton's/haynes manual, its listed in there ... also I think the
ball joints may come with some instructions on the topic as well ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 11:39:48 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - No oil pressure...could use a little advise.

DO NOT RUN GEAR LUBE IN AN ENGINE!!! It won't get to all the parts and you
will not only scrap the bearings but the cam and other parts as well! You
will be throwing a rod very soon if you continue like this because the rods
are not getting any oil. The gear lube also has chemicals in it that react
with the bearing material.

One tiny bit of antifreeze will gall the bearings in a flash and only
replacement will fix it. Next to fine diamond dust, the very worst thing you
can get into a crank case is coolant. Plain water should not have much
affect if it is a small amount. From your description it was not a small
amount? Sufficient quantity to dislodge the oil from the pickup tube screen
after shut down and restart will be sufficient to destroy the engine if
there is any antifreeze in it at all but I've started totally water logged
engines many times with no apparent effects on the bearings. It was not run
long or beyond idle but it was run in that condition. Each year, once I
discovered this problem I drained the oil and refilled with fresh before
starting but never noticed any damage due to this. If it was run hard with
significant amount of water in the oil then I'm sure damage would result
even with pure water. Course this was a venerable 352 which I believe may
actually be indestructable, not sure :-)

If you wish to reuse any of the parts in that engine I suggest you quit
running it til you can get the pan off and check it out. The cam may
already be destroyed due to lack of lube. 90 wt will not go through the
passages it will act like a blockage to most of them. Once a cam has turned
against the lifters with no lube it is galled and will wear itself to a nub
in a few weeks. Guess where all the metal the wears off will be???

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I probably fried the main bearings, a thicker oil might do
> the trick. I
> bought some 80W90 oil (I know that isnt good for the engine,
> but neither is
> this knocking and rattling) and am now running 4qts 80W90 and
> 1 qt 10W40. It
>
> Anthony
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 11:53:22 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re - Ballast Resistor?

That's the problem with resistor wires, they are smaller than the load wants
them to be so they heat up. Fusable links are nothing more than small wires
which act as fuses. The ones on my temp used to smoke but never burned up,
scary! :-(

Ballast resistors do the same thing but are much more expensive to
manufacture so add cost the the vehicle. In my opinion there is no
comparison for quality or function, the ballast resistor is superior in
every way. It has the positive secondary function of canceling the
electrical noise in the line as well.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Last summer my resistor wire burnt up, taking many other
> wires with it. So
> instead of installing a new one I totally removed it and
> replaced it with a
> 14awg wire. I then installed a ballast resistor under the hood on the
> fender well, figured it would get lots of cooling air there.
> The wire diagram I had called for 1.3 to 1.4 ohms of
> resistance wire. So I
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 11:13:13 -0600
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" mddc.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco

Joe, after working in a parts store for a few years, I've seen a few
things happen.
1. wrong pump caused by the parts man not asking the right questions
2. wrong pump because the parts man accidentally punched in the wrong
year
As a matter of fact, mabye you dealt with a parts man with a very
short attention span.
3. You'd never beleive how many parts I've seen in the wrong boxes!

In any case, it seems to me you've gotten the wrong pump for your truck.

Jason Kendrick

joe delaurentis wrote:
>
> Group,
> my 92 Bronco(351) i just put on a new water pump, after doing this I
> lost all me heat
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 12:23:13 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s

Ok, first lets get the description out of the way....if it is a dana 44,
live axle with ball joints there is no other function attached to the sleeve
but to put the proper preload on the ball joints. This sleeve is simply a
round, threaded bushing with a tapered hole to match the top ball joint and
with 4 slots in the top for a spanner. Caster is handled by the "C"
bushings and camber is handled by shims which go between the spindle and the
spindle yoke.

I believe the trunion bearing version did have a cam sleeve in the top
trunion bore, not sure but the ball joint version does not :-) The TTB
versions do have such cam sleeves as well.

The idea is that you torque the bottom nut to spec, then torque the sleeve
(with anti-seize on the threads) to 40# then torque the top nut to spec..
One has a lock nut the other has a castelated nut which you then tighen to
the next available slot to insert the cotter key.

I don't have the spec in front of me but the larger nut has about 100# and
the smaller nut has about 80# as I recall. Someone will look this up for us
I'm sure :-)

The effect is that the torque on the sleeve puts negative pressure on the
bottom joint and positive pressure on the top joint and when you torque the
top nut it pulls some of it back out to "balance" the pressure so they are
nearly at equilibrium, the yoke is floating between them when done properly
so there is no mechanical load on them. If you don't follow this procedure
you will wind up with ball joints with considerable artificial load on them
added to the normal loads and they will wear very quickly.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Gary Peters wrote:
> > When you get ready to set them up in the axle you have to use
> > a torque wrench on the top threaded sleeve and it takes a special
> > tool to do it right. If you guess at this step you may cause your
> > new joints to wear out prematurely. I can give you the exact
> > sequence if you like.
>
> Actually, I need more than that. I am unfamiliar with this. I
> assumed the sleeve is used for alignment purposes. Does it have
> something other than the ball joint nut that locks it down? Tell
> me more! Oh, and yes, please give me the exact sequence.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 11:38:25 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s

> Ok, first lets get the description out of the way....if it is a dana 44,
> live axle with ball joints

That's what I've got ... 2 of em ... one disc one drum ...

> there is no other function attached to
> the sleeve
> but to put the proper preload on the ball joints. This sleeve is simply a
> round, threaded bushing with a tapered hole to match the top ball
> joint and
> with 4 slots in the top for a spanner

> camber is handled by shims which go between the
> spindle and the
> spindle yoke.
>

WHAT?!?!?! You're tellin me to change the camber of my truck I have to pull
the spindle and put spacers under it ? wouldn't that put a torque on the
spindle and put odd stresses on it? and aren't there only 5 bolts for that
to work on ? This isn't making sense to me obviously ... well that and
watching an alignment shop with a spanner wrench crank that thing around to
try and get the thing into spec ... its possible they didn't know what they
were dealing with, but why would the alignment change as that was moved if
that was really just a sleeve like you say ...

> I believe the trunion bearing version did have a cam sleeve in the top
> trunion bore, not sure but the ball joint version does not

Trunion bearing version ? hmmm... I've heard of this, but don't think I've
ever seen one ... anyone got pics or a good desc so I can visualize the
difference on this ? I know I bought ball joints for mine though, so I know
that's what I've got, just want to know about this other version as well ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 12:04:01 -0600
From: "Howard Bottles" austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '74 F350 Super Camper Special

Over the Holidays I ran across a truck for sale at a local repair shop.
It is a '74 F350 Super Camper Special, regular cab, 4spd, PS, PB. Called
number on the sign and the owner said the engine ran, but was loose and
started making noise. Looks to have a 390/4V. Body is in good shape,
some rust on the hood, front of the bed is rusting. Interior is in good
shape, windshield has no cracks or rock chips. The truck is a long
bed/super long wheelbase, has spare tire in the passenger side of the
bed.

Question is: is this a somewhat rare truck? I haven't seen many of these
around (Central Texas). He was asking $1000, but he said he would take
$500. I may try to offer 3 bills to get it out of his hair.

THanks

Howardb
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 12:07:38 -0600
From: "Howard Bottles" austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '74 F350 Super Camper Special (resend)

Sorry to resend this, Having problems with my email......


Over the Holidays I ran across a truck for sale at a local repair shop.
It is a '74 F350 Super Camper Special, regular cab, 4spd, PS, PB. Called
number on the sign and the owner said the engine ran, but was loose and
started making noise. Looks to have a 390/4V. Body is in good shape,
some rust on the hood, front of the bed is rusting. Interior is in good
shape, windshield has no cracks or rock chips. The truck is a long
bed/super long wheelbase, has spare tire in the passenger side of the
bed.

Question is: is this a somewhat rare truck? I haven't seen many of these
around (Central Texas). He was asking $1000, but he said he would take
$500. I may try to offer 3 bills to get it out of his hair.

THanks

Howardb
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 10:17:23 -0800
From: "A Bernal" hotmail.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '79 f100 4x4

Does anyone know where to get those rubber panels that keep the mud out of
the side of the truck? (1 behind each wheel) This truck has an auxiliary
gas tank. How much does it hold? And it's using a 390 engine, short bed, how
much can one load on it? and how much can it pull?
Appreciate any help. I'm not really literate in the pickup world. but I'm
trying to learn.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 13:23:55 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s

Why do you think they charge so much for doing the camber on a dana 44??
It's a lot of work! I can get my spindles off in about 5 minutes though,
the work is getting it all back on with clean surfaces etc. and resetting
the bearing preload and without getting dirt in anything....:-(

Since the sleeve is not a precision part it will have an effect on the
alignment but I would expect very little change due to this by itself. Any
time you change all the parts there will be a stack up of tolerances with a
similar change to the geometry but, as we know front end alignement on a
live axle is not rocket science :-) The spec is actually pretty wide.

The shim covers the whole yoke surface and is sandwiched between the spindle
and yoke. There is no compromise in strength due to this and yes it affects
the angle of inclination but again all these changes are very small. The
only reason you would even need a shim is to get it exactly where you want
it or if the axle has been damaged. I think it would be rare to find a
factory fresh axle which required any shims to meet the ford spec.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > camber is handled by shims which go between the
> > spindle and the
> > spindle yoke.
> >
>
> WHAT?!?!?! You're tellin me to change the camber of my truck
> I have to pull
> the spindle and put spacers under it ? wouldn't that put a

> were dealing with, but why would the alignment change as that
> was moved if
> that was really just a sleeve like you say ...
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 13:29:06 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - sounds like a deisel

I just assumed the M block was a noisy, vibratey engine :-) Mine rattles
like mad at high revs in third gear or second but there could be all manner
of loose bearings between it and the rear wheels to cause the racket in my
case :-) Usually a rod knock will show itself at idle as an occasional
thud, very light and not necessarily every rotation at first but I can hear
this thud a mile away :-( No thuds in mine yet :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > I have a 1979 F-150 4x4 w/a 400. Somewhere between 45-55mph
> my engine makes
> > a noise just like a diesel. Anywhere over the 45-50mph mark
>
> My 351M did this, turned out to be a rod bearing just starting to go.
> Sounded just like you describe.
>
> OX
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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 13:43:48 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Archive lists

The archives are now on the new server but are not yet accessible.
I'm in the process of adding a search engine for it. No promises
as to when it will happen, wife had a serious illness in the family
and it's turned things upside down for the next week or so.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

At 06:36 PM 12/27/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Sorry for being ignorant, but I've seen posts referring to the "archives." Where can I get a look at these? I'm wanting some info regarding putting a 5 speed manual in my '69 F-250. Thanks.
>
>
>Tim Neasham
>Benton City, Wa.
>'69 F-250 390 2wd
>'74 F-250 390 Crispy Critter
>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 13:46:11 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco

There may be water pumps for this engine which use the serpentine belt which
run backward but I would suspect you would have temp troubles in that case.
If the heads have an air pocket in them you will get no flow and also
erroneous temp readings but the engine will boil when you shut it off.
Sounds like you burped it so this should not be an issue. I usually hold
one of the heater hoses up and let the coolant run into a bucket for a
minute to make sure, then pour it back in the radiator. There is a water
passage in the 351 manifold so burping it should use the top hose in the
manifold if there is one. This will give you the best vantage to get all
the air out. There should be a heater hose connection above and below the
thermostat, use the upper one to burp it.

The process of removing the hoses may have allowed a rust blob to get into
the inlet of the core and block some of the flow too, hard to say without
taking the whole thing apart but replacing the heater hoses any time you do
such a job is good insurance too (they're cheap).

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Group,
> my 92 Bronco(351) i just put on a new water pump, after doing this I
> lost all me heat
> Luke warm if that....I have changed the thermostat 3 months
> ago, so i'm
> ruling that
> out, i had blazing heat with the leaking old water pump...I have also
> bled the heater
> core per Ford Shop manual..and still have luke warm heat....Now the
> gauge iw
> working and saying the motor is warm...Were should i look
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 14:11:13 -0500
From: Ted Wnorowski ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stalling Beast

>>Again, please feel free to include any additional comments. Thanks for
>>the help!
> It didn't make it home from my wife's families Christmas party.
> I have two fuel filters on this truck. One on the fuel pump, the
> canister type, and a clear glass one inline.Usually the clear one is full
> of fuel when the truck is running. When it started acting up, I noticed
> it was only 1/2 full ( or 1/2 empty for you pessimists). It's seems like
> the filter on the fuel pump might be clogged. It'll run for a little bit,
> then die out. Let it sit for a bit it'll start again. Kinda like the dirt
> & crap is clogging things up, let it settle down, and it starts again.
> Either that or the fuel pump finally went????? Any thoughts or comments
> always appreciated.
>

I kind of buried this in the first reply. I got it home yesterday
with one of my "free" tows from AAA. To get it out of the drive and in
front of the garage it started and ran till I got it moved. Then it sat
there and idled until I shut it off. I'm gonna try the canister fuel filter
first, but not today. Our first snow finally came today, looks like it's
not gonna let up for awhile.

Ted Wnorowski
Bellevue,OH
' 64 F-250
352 transplant
4 speed
' 63 F-100
parts truck

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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 14:37:36 -0500
From: joe delaurentis p3.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Thanks/Paul hits it on the nose/waterpump

Thanks for the responses on help with the water pump...After tearing it all down

and looking into the pump i noticed the nipple for the heater core was not
punched
out inside the pump..INSTANT BLOCKAGE...I've never seen this before
with the old cast iron pumps, but these aluminum ones i guess anything can
happen..
Well i'm back to having heat with my new pump...Amazing how fast you can work
in 25 degree weather...
thanks again
Joe

"Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote:

> There may be water pumps for this engine which use the serpentine belt which
> run backward but I would suspect you would have temp troubles in that case.
> If the heads have an air pocket in them you will get no flow and also
> erroneous temp readings but the engine will boil when you shut it off.
> Sounds like you burped it so this should not be an issue. I usually hold
> one of the heater hoses up and let the coolant run into a bucket for a
> minute to make sure, then pour it back in the radiator. There is a water
> passage in the 351 manifold so burping it should use the top hose in the
> manifold if there is one. This will give you the best vantage to get all
> the air out. There should be a heater hose connection above and below the
> thermostat, use the upper one to burp it.
>
> The process of removing the hoses may have allowed a rust blob to get into
> the inlet of the core and block some of the flow too, hard to say without
> taking the whole thing apart but replacing the heater hoses any time you do
> such a job is good insurance too (they're cheap).
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
> --
>
> > Group,
> > my 92 Bronco(351) i just put on a new water pump, after doing this I
> > lost all me heat
> > Luke warm if that....I have changed the thermostat 3 months
> > ago, so i'm
> > ruling that
> > out, i had blazing heat with the leaking old water pump...I have also
> > bled the heater
> > core per Ford Shop manual..and still have luke warm heat....Now the
> > gauge iw
> > working and saying the motor is warm...Were should i look
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --
Joe
68 4x4 390 c6- Np 205 Dana 44 with Disc Brakes,
Since Ford Didn't build em this way in 68, I'll make my own!


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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 16:10:09 EST
From: A4x4junky aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - No oil pressure...could use a little advise.

In a message dated 12/28/99 11:42:52 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:

<< DO NOT RUN GEAR LUBE IN AN ENGINE!!! It won't get to all the parts and you
will not only scrap the bearings but the cam and other parts as well! You
will be throwing a rod very soon if you continue like this because the rods
are not getting any oil. The gear lube also has chemicals in it that react
with the bearing material.

One tiny bit of antifreeze will gall the bearings in a flash and only
replacement will fix it. Next to fine diamond dust, the very worst thing you
can get into a crank case is coolant. Plain water should not have much
affect if it is a small amount. From your description it was not a small
amount? Sufficient quantity to dislodge the oil from the pickup tube screen
after shut down and restart will be sufficient to destroy the engine if
there is any antifreeze in it at all but I've started totally water logged
engines many times with no apparent effects on the bearings. It was not run
long or beyond idle but it was run in that condition. Each year, once I
discovered this problem I drained the oil and refilled with fresh before
starting but never noticed any damage due to this. If it was run hard with
significant amount of water in the oil then I'm sure damage would result
even with pure water. Course this was a venerable 352 which I believe may
actually be indestructable, not sure :-)

If you wish to reuse any of the parts in that engine I suggest you quit
running it til you can get the pan off and check it out. The cam may
already be destroyed due to lack of lube. 90 wt will not go through the
passages it will act like a blockage to most of them. Once a cam has turned
against the lifters with no lube it is galled and will wear itself to a nub
in a few weeks. Guess where all the metal the wears off will be???

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary >>

Oops...too late. I have already run it this way for two days. I have
already decided to write this engine off. I dont have the money to fix it
right, and someone (very generously) is donating an engine. I have to keep
driving it for at least a couple of days. Once it is out, I will pull it
apart and figure out what is left.

Anthony
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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 14:42:03 -0700
From: "Greg Sage" home.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - radius arm bushings

I have to replace the radius arm insulators. Picked up some neoprene ones.
Do I really have to remove the coils? If I pry the tire ahead while putting
my foot on the frame will that work enough to slip the end of the radius arm
end out?

thanks in advance...

Greg Sage
Calgary, Alberta Canada
78 F150 2WD REGULAR CAB 351M/400 C6
97 Intrepid 3.5L (Wifes(computer controlled, can't even change the oil,
wouldn't wanna touch it) car)

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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 18:18:22 -0500
From: "Brad Smith" mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dexron vs Ford ATF

- ----- Original Message -----
From: William S. Hart iastate.edu>
To: <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 1999 9:34 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Dexron vs Ford ATF


> > > To me a harder shift means
> > > more wear and
> > > tear.
>
> > Believe it or not, harder shifts actually mean less wear... If a tranny
> > shifts slow and smooth, the bands are engaging slowly
>
>
> Of course that's on the tranny side of things that that's true ...
hammering
> the crap out of your u-joints and drive shafts with a hard shift is always
> good for them too right ? ;)
>
> I don't think the real question is how hard it shifts as to how quick it
> shifts, I don't care if my truck jumps a little bit, just as long as it
> grabs the gear when it needs it ... no shift kit in mine, but it pulls
> pretty okay anyway ;)
>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
Well, I would most definately rather be replacing u-joints (~ $7/ea.), and
1/2 hr labor, than replacing bands and clutches....

Brad




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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 18:20:51 -0500
From: "Brad Smith" mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco

- ----- Original Message -----
From: joe delaurentis p3.net>
To: truck list <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 1999 10:58 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco


> Group,
> my 92 Bronco(351) i just put on a new water pump, after doing this I
> lost all me heat
> Luke warm if that....I have changed the thermostat 3 months ago, so i'm
> ruling that
> out, i had blazing heat with the leaking old water pump...I have also
> bled the heater
> core per Ford Shop manual..and still have luke warm heat....Now the
> gauge iw
> working and saying the motor is warm...Were should i look
> next????Radiator cap???But what is strange is it all worked until i
> changed pumps?!
> Help in pennsylvania(boy is it cold out)
>
> --
> Joe
> 68 4x4 390 c6- Np 205 Dana 44 with Disc Brakes,
> Since Ford Didn't build em this way in 68, I'll make my own!
>
>
I have seen this before, and in my case the heater core was clogged... just
kept flushing it back and forth until it ran clear, and it solved the
problem... Good luck...

Brad


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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 17:57:14 CST
From: "Luke Phillips" hotmail.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 & C6 FOR SALE

Motor and tranny are out of a 73 Mercury Grand Marque. Motor has
90,000 well taken care of miles. The motor is complete with the execption of
the carburator. The block is a 71 DOVE series, the heads
are 73 DOVE series 91cc chambers. I ran a compression check on all of
the cylinders and they all read over 135 lbs. of pressure. The heads
have had some small port work done on them. I am encluding a set of
FEL-PRO gaskets (everything but the head gaskets). Asking $1,000 for
both and $700 for just the motor. Please feel free to email me at
lukes67fordhotmail.com or call me at (972)475-3972 for more info.
Thank You,
Luke Phillips

______________________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 19:14:57 -0500
From: "Redden" enter.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck survey

I've got a '71 F250 4x4 with a 390 TBI motor, T-18 four speed trans.
It's undergone a frame off (but not show quality) resto. No powder coated
diffs!
I hope you can call it a "B" truck soon. I'm having it painted (not much
body work to do)
in Jan. It was made in K.C. Kansas and was brought here to PA from
Arizona.
(Got tired of messing with rotted old trucks.) I want it to be as nice as
possible but don't care about shaved door handles, roll pans, dropped/lifted
stance (it has the stock lift) burled rosewood bed, etc...

Yes, I hope to drive it anywhere. I use it every day now. As long as I can
make a "business stop" or two, I don't care so much about gas comsumption.
It's listed as my business vehicle and every dime I spend on it is tax
deductable....
I'd really love to make it Pigeon Forge this year. It would be my first
time. That would be a pretty good trip
from PA.

Thanks for your questions, you guys,

Mike R



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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 19:39:33 EST
From: JUMPINFORDaol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '74 F350 Super Camper Special

According to some info found by another member for me, there were a hair less
than 10,000 of these made in 74. I was asking because I have one, although
mine has an original 460. VERY stout trucks, If you can get it for the 500
your gettin a good deal. And with that I say snatch that girl up! Not only
are they stout, but the long wheel base, stiff springs and sway bars make for
VERY good handling, and the huge brakes make it easy to stop. I paid 900 for
mine, and have got almost 6000 in it now, still looks like a beat up farm
truck! But as soon as the new motor is in, at least it wont run like a beat
up farm truck.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 20:27:07 EST
From: GMontgo930aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - need help with heat in Bronco

In a message dated 12/28/99 6:28:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
fishinbradmindspring.com writes:

>
>
> > Group,
> > my 92 Bronco(351) i just put on a new water pump, after doing this I
> > lost all me heat
> > Luke warm if that....I have changed the thermostat 3 months ago, so i'm
> > ruling that
> > out, i had blazing heat with the leaking old water pump...I have also
> > bled the heater
> > core per Ford Shop manual..and still have luke warm heat....Now the
> > gauge iw
> > working and saying the motor is warm...Were should i look
> > next????Radiator cap???But what is strange is it all worked until i
> > changed pumps?!
> > Help in pennsylvania(boy is it cold out)
> >
> > --
> > Joe
> > 68 4x4 390 c6- Np 205 Dana 44 with Disc Brakes,
> > Since Ford Didn't build em this way in 68, I'll make my own!
> >
> >
> I have seen this before, and in my case the heater core was clogged... just
> kept flushing it back and forth until it ran clear, and it solved the
> problem... Good luck...
>
If the heater was working fine before the pump change (and also assuming you
removed both hoses to the Heater from the engine) you've probibly got the
lines reversed. Try switching them around from where you've got them now.

George
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 21:48:59 EST
From: SHill48337aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ballast Resistor

In a message dated 12/28/99 9:37:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, BDIJXSaol.com
writes:

<<
So, I'm using a Fluke DVM to monitor the voltage....should it really be
10.5,
or hold constant at 8???? >>

I think I understand a little better. I have no idea if 8 is better than
10.5, but as you said yesterday the resistance normally goes up with wear and
tear not down. Unless someone has shortened and spliced your wire it should
not be providing something out of spec. Since this is not getting anywhere,
I took your info and sent it to a Mallory Tech, should get the answer
tomorrow. What follows is what I sent:

To: dana.com">dennis.mcgeedana.com

Have a Mallory Unilite distributor on Ford 428 in 1969 Ford pickup and
Mallory says the voltage shouldn't exceed about 9V to these units....had one
burn out a couple of years ago, just wondering if the current unit is on
"borrowed time" due to too much voltage being applied. 10.5 Volts read on a
Fluke DVM, which is probably an average reading. The true reading is
probably a varying 9V to 12V. The big question, will this voltage shorten
the life of the distributor?
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 19:10:28 -0800 (PST)
From: ECSTruckingwebtv.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - truck use survey

well i thought i'd put my 2 cents in
75 ford f100 short bed 4x4
390 FE w/factory hi rise and headers
4"susp. lift 3" body lift 35.12.5 x15 mud tires

daily driver and hobby and project truck
any thing to keep me from drinking
(7yrs sober)

basically stock truck that needs all the work
i can give it and it loves the attention!!!

cross country? are you nuts? I have the best of all worlds here in
Oregon! but just to say i did it, maybe once and thats it . end of
subject

Chris in Oregon (36yrs)
THE GREAT NORTHWEST!!!

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 00:27:32 -0500
From: Brent and Millie Price mciworld.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - answers to survey

OK, see if this works.

1. 1976 F100 SB 390 C6, 12 mpg, 9k miles daily driver since Feb '99

2. Condition B, if you give me 60 feet and ignore the cracked dash pad

3. I might try the I-40 blues cross country once, just let me take my tool
box. I might could go routinely after my slight steering shimmy/tie
rods/radius bushings are replaced.

bkp
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 23:26:00 EST
From: IanBoss69aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Overheating

Well a new problem has arisen,,,,I replaced the heater hoses due to the fact
that they were starting to fall apart and now my engine is over heating and
my heater is blowing icy air,,,,i've foudn the heater problem,,,the "new"
hose has a kink and is copllapsing,,,,the overheating Im guessing is a bad
thermostat,,,,but i wanted you guys to bring up any other things that could
cause it to overheat,,,BTW its now "dieseling" and won't shut off,,,it ran an
extra 2 minutes tonight,,,,,i don't like that at all,,,,,My guess is that the
engine overheated and is burning the gas inside without the need for a
spark,,,this is all just coming from my mind so if that cant be it let me
know TIA

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
True Blue Ford Blue
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 22:31:19 -0700
From: "Idahoans" earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - answers to survey

I'm *brand* new to this list and the survey replies look interesting --
could someone forward me a copy of the questions? Thanks!
Carla
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------------------------------

End of 61-79-list-digest V3 #479
********************************

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