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From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #477
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
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61-79-list-digest Monday, December 27 1999 Volume 03 : Number 477



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2
Re: FTE 61-79 - 79 F250 crewcab 4x4
RE: FTE 61-79 - 4wd power distribution
RE: FTE 61-79 - 79 F250 crewcab 4x4
RE: FTE 61-79 - Anti Seize, MSDS....
FTE 61-79 - Survey
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2
FTE 61-79 - Truck Survey
RE: FTE 61-79 - Transmission hum, NP435
RE: FTE 61-79 - "Whiter whites, Brighter brights"
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Survey
RE: FTE 61-79 - Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s
RE: FTE 61-79 - (no subject)
RE: FTE 61-79 - Ford FE Oiling, was Ford Exhaust Ports
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s
FTE 61-79 - Truck Survey
RE: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2
RE: FTE 61-79 - Accident Prone
FTE 61-79 - Ballast Resistor?
RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)
RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2
FTE 61-79 - C6 Dilema
Re: FTE 61-79 - 79 F250 crewcab 4x4
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey
FTE 61-79 - Re: Truck Use Survey 2
FTE 61-79 - truck use survey
[none]
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2
Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)
RE: FTE 61-79 - Ford 9" and 8.8"
RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)
FTE 61-79 - RE: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s
FTE 61-79 - Re: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s
FTE 61-79 - Poll
RE: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2
RE: FTE 61-79 - Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 05:34:10 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2

Andrew Antipas wrote:

>
> 1. What year and model truck do you have?

'71 F100 4X2 XLT 360 C6

>
>
> 2. Which of the following best describes your truck:
>
> C. Running truck with decent body and mostly original
> components but needs work.

Mostly original except color change at some point from blue to black, well
done, though.
Interior was redone by what looks like one of those custom van shops. Also
well done and
holding up well. Will soon have a 390 w/ 406 heads and 6V setup. Right bed
side is rusting
pretty bad and minor rust breaking out on cab.

>
> 3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?

As long as I had some tools and spare parts, sure.
The last two summers I used it daily because the a/c worked (now I need to
r&r the blower motor)
and the a/c in my 5.0 Capri didn't. Now that it's cooler I alternate between
the two. It's been
a very reliable truck for the two years I've owned it with only basic
maintenance.
I, too had a new truck ('94 Lightning) that was a lot of fun but somehow
just didn't
feel right, didn't fit me (even after it was paid off:). I think they
stopped making real
trucks after the 70s.

George

>
>
> Again, please feel free to include any additional comments. Thanks for
> the help!
>
> Regards,
>
> Andy
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 14:46:31 -0800
From: "Jeff Norville" sosinet.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 79 F250 crewcab 4x4

Hi Andy:

> I need help with a price for an old truck. I'm currently looking at a 79
> F250 XLT crewcab, 4x4, 400M, 4spd., 150,000 miles, PS, PB, AC. The owner
> is asking $7900 which seems very high to me.

Seems a little high to me. I paid $3000 for a 79 Bronco with an all-stock
351M, same mileage, same 4spd, PS, PB, aftermarket AC (was a Custom, not
XLT); steering woas (leaky, loose box) seem standard.

The crewcab option is popular ($); it sounds like it has had some shade tree
owners; could be good, could be bad. Part of the reason I shopped for an
all-stock motor was that I guessed previous owner had not played Baja 500 in
it; the aftermarket AC and bigger radiator were installed by a shop in LA
that left their stickers all over the place, so I could safely assume this
was an early SUV for somebody who liked to sit high in traffic but didn't
use the 4wd much outside of driving to their cabin at Lake Arrowhead once a
year. (Oops - carried away by psychology of used car shopping.)

Maybe the bubbling paint could be a leverage point for you; my bubbling
paint covers some extensive panel cancer, and the panels for my 79 are hard
to find aftermarket (though plentiful in junk yards here).

> I would say the truck is in average condition for being 20 years old.
> What would be a fair price for this truck?

Off the cuff - $5000? How close am I gang?

Jeff

Who ditched the 351M after 167,000 miles (just in time - bearings, timing
chain, couple of lifters, valves all very unhappy) and plopped in a 400.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 06:58:42 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 4wd power distribution

How often do you lock them in to lube the ujoints and operate the hubs? You
should do this fairly often. I don't do it nearly enough myself but I'd
recommned at least once a month for a few miles. I generally hook it up and
leave it for a day then unhook the next day. That puts about 60 high speed
miles on it but I don't remember till winter :-) The Ujoints especially
need lots of attention to keep the bearings from rusting. The front diff
probably gets enough splash to keep it lubed pretty well but the ujoints
will rust solid relatively fast if not moved once in a while. The manual
hubs need to be "worked" now and then too to keep the grease from drying out
and clumping which prevents all the parts from engaging when you need them
most.

I agree that it's probably the hubs and dry grease is probably the culprit.
Take them apart, clean them, lube them with white lithium grease, very
lightly and slap them back in and I bet your problem goes away :-)

It is my sincere belief that most manual locking hubs and autos as well
explode due to being only partially engaged, again due to dry grease or too
much grease. DO NOT USE WHEEL BEARING GREASE ON HUBS! Use a light,
hopefully water proof grease like lubriplate or white lithium. (not sure
lithium is water proof, lubriplate is)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> hubs it spins freely. The reason why i think there is a problem is
> cause on the snow packed streets i can get the back wheels to spin
> easily but i can get the front to spin. And also i was
> climbing a hill
> today and the truck stopped back wheels spun but i dont think
> the fronts
> were. What could this be????
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 07:14:04 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 79 F250 crewcab 4x4

I've seen fully restored f-150s go for $5000. Blue book on my bronco was
$3000 when I bought it and it was over priced in my opinion but had
everything I wanted so I bought it. I would not pay $7900 for a 79 truck in
original condition with 150k miles on it. If it had been garaged all it's
life and had less than 100k on it original miles I might consider it but it
would have to be show room condition for that price. If you can go around
it under the rear fenders where the patches would be visible and not find
any evidence of patches then $3-4000 might be a good start point depending
on other things like the power train etc.. What you describe is a well
used, well worn and not restored truck. You will undoubtedly get stuck
rebuilding all the axles, tranny and xfer case very soon so budget that into
your deal. Body panels are available but can you do the work? I just
bought the panels for my bronco from JCW but I plan to do all the welding
and painging etc.. I could not afford to pay someone to do this, the truck
isn't worth that kind of expense to me.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I need help with a price for an old truck. I'm currently
> looking at a 79
> F250 XLT crewcab, 4x4, 400M, 4spd., 150,000 miles, PS, PB,
> AC. The owner
> is asking $7900 which seems very high to me.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 08:13:47 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Anti Seize, MSDS....

Copper/bronze based anti-seize I am familiar with was designed to work with
electric spot welders which have Barylium Copper electrodes and water
flowing through them. I have tried this on non-copper applications and
found it to be not nearly as good as the grey anti-seize for most
applications I typically run into.

Just looked up the Loctite version of the 76764, grey Anti-Seize and it
contains the following toxic ingredients according to our MSDS:

Hydrotreated heavy naphthenic
Copper
Aluminum
Lithium 12-hydroxystearate
Graphite
Silica Gel, precipatated, crystalline free

No lead in this particular version. I suspected the grey color came from
aluminum and this may be the case but not sure :-) It is my untrained
belief that the main ingredient in both the copper and aluminum versions is
the material it is designed to work with the most or the best. The original
military anti-seize was designed to work with aluminum/magnesium alloys and
steel interfaces and may have originally contained lead, not sure, the
copper is designed to work with copper and steel interfaces as far as I
know. There may have been an additional lead version designed to work with
steam or some such thing, don't know that for sure either :-)

Annnnny way, the stuff I use it definitely toxic but contains no lead :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> In the world of anti-seize there are two types.
> The copper based and the lead based. I have
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 07:53:43 -0600
From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Survey

1. What year and model truck do you have?
65 F100 460 C6
2. Which of the following best describes your truck:

C. Running truck with decent body and mostly original
components but needs work.

3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?
After the a new tranny is installed, the truck has been driven by myself on
a daily basis for the past 10 years. just took it of the road this year to
restore and rebuild it.

Paul.
65 F100 460 C6


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 08:53:27 -0500
From: Ted Wnorowski ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2

At 12:48 PM 12/26/99 -0700, you wrote:


>1. What year and model truck do you have?
It's a ' 64 F-250.


>2. Which of the following best describes your truck:
>
> C. Running truck with decent body and mostly original
>components but needs work.
Decent in the fact that it is still attached to the truck! My
floor pans and cab mounts are gone. Cab corners too, it has rust in all the
usual places for a ' 61 - ' 66. Rags are stuffed in key points all over to
reduce heat loss.

>3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?
Maybe if someone triple dog dared me. Even then I would probably
back down.

>Again, please feel free to include any additional comments. Thanks for
>the help!
Right now "The Beast" is sitting in the driveway of my employers
Distribution Center. It didn't make it home from my wife's families
Christmas party.
I have two fuel filters on this truck. One on the fuel pump, the
canister type, and a clear glass one inline.Usually the clear one is full
of fuel when the truck is running. When it started acting up, I noticed it
was only 1/2 full ( or 1/2 empty for you pessimists). It's seems like the
filter on the fuel pump might be clogged. It'll run for a little bit, then
die out. Let it sit for a bit it'll start again. Kinda like the dirt & crap
is clogging things up, let it settle down, and it starts again. Either that
or the fuel pump finally went????? Any thoughts or comments always appreciated.


Ted Wnorowski
Bellevue,OH
' 64 F-250
352 transplant
4 speed
' 63 F-100
parts truck

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 08:14:45 -0600
From: ballingr bootheel.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck Survey

1. What year and model truck do you have?

'65 F250 4X4 originally equipped with a 352, soon to have a new 390, NP435
trans, Spicer 24 transfer case, Dana 60 rear, closed knuckle Dana 44 front
with the original 4.56 gears and springs.

2. Do you drive it everyday or is it a "hobby" truck?

My son drives it everyday, I take it out and try to tear it up

3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?

What kind of country? Oh, the whole country? Let's see, I'd need a rubber
mouth piece so my teeth wouldn't grind or chip themselves to gravel. I'd
need ear plugs to keep my hearing from the combination of the wind noise and
the Thrush mufflers at 3000 rpms. Might want to do something too about
those gears, BTW. I might do it if Y2K killed all my other cars, but like
breathing without a tic tac, I wouldn't recommend it, :-)


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:18:29 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Transmission hum, NP435

Pros? What Pros? Transmission rebuilders? No way Hosea! Professional
money collectors, professional return warantee fixers, prof........anyway
you probably have almost as good a chance of making it right the first time
as any shop pro will, all you need is the right manual with good
instructions and pictures in it. 4 speeds are a piece a cake, I've been
told, if you have a few decent tools. The Ford shop manual has very good
directions and all the specs for axial shims and tooth clearances etc.. I
will be embarking on this adventure very soon myself. I've rebuilt
motorcycle trannys and c-4's and c-6's but not the np-435 yet, that's next
:-)

Personally I would tackle it myself and if you get lost then take the
tranny, already out, to the rebuilder but pay close attention to what he
thinks it needs because most of them will install or at least say they
installed parts you didn't need. I'm not trying to bum you out but of all
auto type shops, tranny shops have the very worst reputaion for cheating the
customer.

If you have more money than time then try a shop but try to get some
testamonials from customers before taking the plunge :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Anything to add? Didn't want to pull the tranny when motor was out -
> already maxed out my shade-tree skills and didn't have room
> on the bench for
> gears all over the place - taking this one to the pros.
> Waste of money?
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:33:53 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - "Whiter whites, Brighter brights"

Diodes are always a good choice for automating DC current flow but make sure
you get some with the proper amperage rating and break over voltage rating
so they don't burn up :-)

I made a 12v, DC rectifier bridge with these to run my car radio in the
shop. Works great but the radio doens't have the wattage rating of head
lights so just a note of caution :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Just a suggestion when doing the whiter whites, brighter
> brights... The way
> he has on there to make both your brights and dims come on at
> the same time
> can be a pain... Found alot quicker solution. Between your
> two relays put a
> diode between the activation post on the high beam relay, and
> the activation
> post on the low beam relay.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:34:18 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Survey

ballingr bootheel.net wrote:
>
> 1. What year and model truck do you have?

78 Bronco custom, 351m (soon to be 400), T-18, 10" lift, 44 inch
boggers, dana 60's both ends, detroits
79 Bronco XLT, 351M/auto, 2 inch lift, 38 swamper SX's, welded rear
dana 60. Beater, rusted and hacked to heck, rescued from junkyard
crusher, trail truck.
79 Bronco, XLT, 351M/auto/air. Nice stock truck for boat towing duty.
78 Bronco, XLT, building stage (plans are 400, dual TC, unimog axles)
79 F350, 351M/auto (not sure yet???)

> 2. Do you drive it everyday or is it a "hobby" truck?

All hobby.

> 3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?

Sure, anywhere my trailer could go!!! :-)

> Feel free to include any additional comments.

I'm in desperate need of a truck, NOT!!!!! heeheehee

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:10:59 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s

> I am off work for the coming week, so am going to attempt rebuilding
> my front axle. I currently have the axle assembly out with the axles
> removed and diff. cover off.

Wow, me too :) fortunately its not the one that was under my truck though
... its another one :)

> This is what I have:

Same stuff on my truck 'cept the disc brake portion ...

> 1) When I disconnected the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles,
> there was some shim stock wrapped around the tapers. Also the
> Castle nuts screwed down too far so the cotter pin didn't really
> engage the cutouts in the nuts. I remember someone saying the
> tapers are a different size between drum brake and disk brake
> knuckles.
>

Haven't compared them, but I definitely believe it ... getting Tie-rods for
a 78/9 should fix the problem, though you should also be able to take a
caliper and measure it to be sure that they will fix the problem, hopefully
the current knuckles weren't damaged by using the smaller tie-rods ...

> Is it possible to identify the year truck that these knuckles came
> from? The only numbers on them are 620170L and 620169R.
>

Don't think so, I think those are just the part numbers from Dana, I can
compare that with mine when I get home, but I'd be surprised if they were
different (I've got a 76 axle on the bench)

> If I get a tie rod for a '79, Will it work with my existing drag
> link?
>

Good question, when you find out, lemme know will ya ? :) Again the caliper
could prove to be your best friend ...

> Should the tie rod length be the same irregardless of whether
> the axle housing is a '74 or '79?
>

Well regardless anyway, they are the same track width as far as I can tell,
the real difference would likely be in the knuckles ...


> Can I use the drag link from a '79 with the afore-mentioned tie
> rod with the existing manual steering box? I would toss the ram-
> assist stuff until I could get an integral box mounted.
>

This makes for a bear to drive, but it can be done (BTDT) ... there is a
manual link available to use with the old system ... I had one for a while,
still got it actually but may be using it in the near future ... they're
kind of pricey ($119 or so if I remember right), but it will do the trick,
just get it for a manual 4x4, as the PS was an option in 73/4 ...

> 2) All of the rubber bushing material on the radius arms need
> replacing. The truck is stock height.
>
> If my concerns are cost and longevity, where should I get them?
> Should I consider polyurethane?
>

Poly's the way I'll be going with mine, then I shouldn't ever have to
replace it again ... also being a handling nut, I like the predictability of
the poly (it won't flex as much as the rubber)

> 3) With everything disconnected and the spindles removed, one
> steering knuckle is very easy to turn by hand and the other is
> pretty stiff. I don't feel any play in either one. Should I
> replace the ball joints on the stiff side, or just replace them
> all?
>

Since its apart I'd replace them all, but that's just me ... if you pull the
spindle out yourself and have the ball joints pressed in/out it shouldn't
cost too much and you will know you have good ones in there ...

> 4) Anyone near southwest Washington state have a '78 or '79
> F-150 with stock steering components I can take a look at?
> Maybe let me take some measurements and pictures?
>

Hmmm...Tony had some pics, if he can get them to me I can throw them on the
web for you ...

If there's anything I can help you with for sure lemme know as I've got the
76 axle apart and an integral box in the back of the truck (hopefully I can
get that mounted in the front like its supposed to be someday)


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:16:14 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - (no subject)

> Well as for the leaks and squeaks, my friend has an 86 T-top gt and it's
> awsome,,it doesn't leak and as far as i could tell it didnt make any
> squeaks,

If you have a hatchback that's not squeaking you're not driving it right ...
:)

>(not saying that others don't either ) body flex i
> couldn't care less
> about because it still be stiffer than a convertible and im not racing
> anyways.

Actually the convertibles are stiffer than the others! They put more
bracing under them because they are missing the top ... the SN95's have
really stiffened things up though, supposedly the 99's even more, but
haven't had a chance to play with one of those ...

87 is indeed the last year of the T-top, someone claimed to have an 88 once,
but I never got to look at it.

The sunroof's are also incredible (something like 27" across) as that's what
I had in my 82 GT, they aren't quite as airy as the t-tops, but do have
their advantages (like partially open for winter defrosting or rainy days)
...

'cause of my size though I'm a big fan of the SN95's ... (94+) more head
room and better leg room too ... I think you could get a sunroof in the
early ones, but those have even been discontinued :(

If you look around you should be able to find a good deal on one, but be
sure you don't get one that's been beat to death by some kid or you will
have just as many reliability problems with it as with your truck ...

Oh yeah the Coupe/T-top theory ... never seen one ... doesn't mean they
didn't make it (as you said the Red book says they did), but I think you
will be hard pressed to find an early coupe/ttop, much less a later one if
they ever did make it ...

Now about that kit-car company ... ;)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:18:17 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Ford FE Oiling, was Ford Exhaust Ports

> Just to clarify, the trick is to put a pipe cleaner in the PUSH
> ROD, not in
> the rocker arm.

Good luck doin that on an FE ... mine had solid pushrods ... oiling was
through the rocker shaft .....

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:21:34 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s

In a message dated 12/27/99 10:15:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
wish iastate.edu writes:

>
> > Is it possible to identify the year truck that these knuckles came
> > from? The only numbers on them are 620170L and 620169R.
> >
>
> Don't think so, I think those are just the part numbers from Dana,

Look left of that part # and you should find a date code. (ie. 2 27 9B3 --
Feb. 27, 1969, "B" shift, Line 3); I doubt there are any records from Ford,
Dana or otherwise to specifically identify the truck this unit came from or
any other units for that matter.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:22:19 -0600
From: "roger hughes" norman.k12.ok.us>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck Survey

1. What year and model truck do you have? 1976 F250 Camper Special

2. Which of the following best describes your truck: C. Body needs some
work but mechanically very good. Rebuilt 390, new brakes, wheels, tires.

A. Competely restored to showroom condition or better
B. Unrestored original or amateur restoration. From 30 feet
it looks like a new truck.
C. Running truck with decent body and mostly original
components but needs work.
D. Project truck which needs a motor, driveline, or bodywork
before being drivable.

3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis? Not unless
gas prices drop below 50 cents a gallon. Besides I have other vehicles
better suited to this type of driving. Would use it to pick up parts for my
55 F100 though.

Roger Hughes

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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:25:40 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2

> 1. What year and model truck do you have?

Uhm ... yeah ... its a truck, from the 70's ... here's how it breaks down :

73 Cab
74 Drive train/chassis
74 Bed
76 390 (not stock)
79 Grille/Right fender(?)

And just for fun, a 76 front axle on the bench waiting to go on and a 78
steering box ... I guess that makes it a 73-79 :)

> 2. Which of the following best describes your truck:

None of those ... I drive mine to and from work nearly every day during the
winter (yuck I know, but the stang's gotta stay off the ice/snow/salt) ...
its not stock but it looks like it ... and it doesn't have any gaping holes
in it, but its cracked through the paint in a couple places ...

> 3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?

Like across the country ? when I could hop in my 'stang and make the trip
without fighting the loose steering or the shakey brakes ? I do drive it
all the time, just got back from visiting the parents 3.5 hours away too ...
and my truck was the one to come through when Dad's was in the shop along
with my sister's ... of the 3 trucks, mine being the oldest, mine was the
one that was runnin and doin daily driver chores for my sister while I
"suffered" with my 'stang :)

> Again, please feel free to include any additional comments. Thanks for
> the help!

My truck is my toy and my driver, it got me through 4 years of college (had
a stang for 1 semester :), one year of commuting to work regularly, now its
in semi-retirement, getting only half the mileage it did before as it splits
the commute time with my 'stang now ... its great having the two vehicles,
when one goes down I can drive the other ... they're both reliable enough to
provide backup or primary transport, it all depends on my mood :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:34:35 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Accident Prone

Forgot to mention wiring my welder in the rain with a live 60 amp fuse box
in the garage.....and moving my iron "H" beam with a steel crow bar in the
rain on an aluminum ladder and pinching a wire I forgot was there.....it's
amazing how much strength you have when you get surprised like that (and how
little strength you have when both hands are involved in the loop):-) Screw
drivers will stick in the darndest things.......:-) BTW, even when your
upper body is frying and paralyzed you can still move your feet to knock the
ladder (same ladder BTW, different incident :-)) out from under
yourself.......just make sure you clean up the area you are working in so
when you fall there are no skill saws, sharp iron parts, bolts, nails, glass
etc. under you.....darned good thing I was wearing a coat.....:-)

Lessons learned....:

1..Turn the power off to the box you are working on, don't assume you wired
it right the first time :-) (Had fuses out but wired to the buss due to wire
size....)
2..Get longer chain so you are outside the building before attempting to
pull side beams out..
3..Use common sense when lighting brush piles and stand back and throw a lit
paper towel into the gas puddle and make sure you are not standing in
one.....(Don't let your dad hold the gas can when you are trying to
encourage a trench full of coal to thaw a frozen sewer pipe)
4..Don't try to turn a wild apaloosa on August, sun baked clay, hoof marked
pasture while attempting to round up a stray, reluctant victim.....er horse
to saddle for a friend.
5..Don't do full throttle bursts on hard gravel with feet up on a TM400 in
3rd gear at 40 mph when pegs are dragging in a turn...
6..Get help to move the bikes into the basement for winter....
7..Don't spill tranny oil when changing filters on a Chinook....
8..Don't use beat up, cheap al ladders on rough ground with one leg (ladder)
bent and repaird several times...
9..Don't drive fast in the snow........forget that one, I'll never
learn......:-)

BTW, I'm very carefull to stand under the tallest tree in the area when
lightning is present.....NOT! I saw a picture of a group who were outside
when it began to storm and many of those 40 or so who happened to be "near"
a large tree were very badly burned and some even killed because the
lightning will "shoot" off the trunk to anyting in it's path and use it for
a path to ground. Over 20 people were seriously injured of those who were
in the area and some were many feet away from the tree, the number I recall
is 40' radius, and the injuries were burns, not from flying debris......I
make mistakes but rarely take "foolish" chances. All of these incidents
were oversights, or careless acts, not deliberately planned "in spite of
conditions". Most accidents are the result of an experienced person who cut
a corner, assuming........and you know the rest :-(

If we live to be my age we are generally a little wiser and more
careful.....I know I am :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> but.......there's always the next time....:-)
> >>>>
>
> Remind me not to stand next to you during a thunderstorm
> :-)
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:46:49 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ballast Resistor?

I have an FE in a 69 F-100 4x4. I measured the voltage at the positive side
of the coil to be in the 10-1/2 volt range. I'm using a Mallory distributor,
and they say that this voltage should be in the 8 - 9 volt range. I was under
the impression that the coil wire was "resistive"....can there be something
wrong with this? I would assume that if there was a problem with this wire,
the resistance would go up...

Now, does anyone know ballast resistor I need? I assume there are different
values available.....

Any ideas?????

CJ


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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 11:04:04 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)

As I recall George, the modulator, at rest positions the valve which I
presume affects the line pressure, not sure, so by changing the length you
change the line pressure at zero manifold pressure or WOT. As soon as the
manifold vacuum begins to increase the modulator moves and the valve moves
to cause the shift so I think I made it shorter but I really can't remember.

I do recall that it was staying in too long so I wanted it to shift sooner
but I don't remember the details now. The idea is that you can fine tune
the shift point for a given engine so it will shift when you want without
having to let off the gas. Popular shift kits do that too by changing some
of the spring values but I couldn't begine to tell you how it all relates,
I've never really studied all the circuits.

This was a trick my instructor showed me and I tried it and found that it
did change the shift point, beyond that, I'm pretty foggy :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > You can
> > actually change the 1st gear upshift point by alterning
> the length of the
> > pin which floats between the modulator plunger and valve
> body plunger.
>
> OK, Now Im curious, How's the length affect the upshift point
> and what's the
> relationship? Does longer mean higher rpms beffor shifting?
> etc? I always
> like info like this.
>
> George
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 11:07:50 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)

I believe this is correct Brad, been a long time but that only makes sense
since you have to be able to release it as well. The torque simply ensures
that it is fully homed and aligned and then you make the back turns to allow
the proper clearance just as we do with spindle bearings. I don't recall
the spec but I do recall that much :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Hate to contradict this, but the torque setting is simply a
> starting point.
> You torque the band to 10 ft./lbs. and the back it off a few
> turns. I don't
> know exactly how many... would be in most any shop manual.
> But the torque
> value is just a reference point....
>
> Brad
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 08:10:11 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey

1. 1979 F250 Ranger 4X4
2. Daily driver soon to be "hobby" truck
3. Probably not...gas guzzler

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Antipas sopris.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 26, 1999 9:58 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey


> Dear FTE Listers,
>
> CJ and I have had a running discussion concerning the reliability of our
> old trucks and there suitability for everyday use. If you would answer
> the answering the following three questions and post them to the list. I
> will tally the results and post them back to the list one week from
> today.
>
> 1. What year and model truck do you have?
> 2. Do you drive it everyday or is it a "hobby" truck?
> 3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?
>
> Feel free to include any additional comments. Thanks for the help!
>
> West Slope Andy



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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 08:12:01 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2

C. Running truck with decent body and mostly original components but needs
work.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Antipas sopris.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 26, 1999 11:48 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2


> Ok FTE Listers,
>
> I have added one more question to the list that I should have added
> before. To reiterate, CJ and I have had a running discussion concerning
> the reliability of our old trucks and there suitability for everyday
> use. If you would take a moment and answer the following four questions
> and post them to the list we would appreciate it. I will tally the
> results and post them back to the list one week from today.




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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:26:36 -0600
From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C6 Dilema

Does anyone know the torque spec. for the bands on a C6.

Thanks,
Paul Rozell
65 F100

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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 08:17:34 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 79 F250 crewcab 4x4

I paid $3200 for my 1979 F250 Ranger, reg cab, 4X4, bone stick 400 (no M),
C6, 124K, PS, PB, no AC, 1 owner, no body rust, some minor surface rust,
with decent camper shell, dual exh with cats removed, aftermarket wheels.
This is in SW Wash state.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Antipas sopris.net>
To: FTE List <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 26, 1999 1:15 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 79 F250 crewcab 4x4


> FTE Listers,
>
> I need help with a price for an old truck. I'm currently looking at a 79
> F250 XLT crewcab, 4x4, 400M, 4spd., 150,000 miles, PS, PB, AC. The owner
> is asking $7900 which seems very high to me.
>
> The truck runs fairly well and has an edelbrock perfomer carb, intake,
> cam, and dual exhaust. The current owner has owned the truck for 2 years
> and has put 10,000 miles on the motor. He does not know when and if the
> motor was rebuilt. There is a fair amount of play in the steering and
> the brakes seem fine. The steering box leaks.
>
> It needs paint, the aluminum trim is in poor shape and there are a few
> dents and dings. There is very little rust except for the right rear
> wheel arch which is starting to bubble under the paint. The truck was
> originally dark blue but was sprayed black right over the blue just like
> the el cheapo Maeco basic paint job. There are a few bits and pieces
> which are missing, broken, or need to be replaced like the windshield.
>
> I would say the truck is in average condition for being 20 years old.
> What would be a fair price for this truck?
>



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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 04:19:11 -0800
From: "Jeff Norville" sosinet.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey

> 1. What year and model truck do you have?

79 Bronco, 4 spd, 400

> 2. Do you drive it everyday or is it a "hobby" truck?

Drove daily for three years in Monterey, now it's getting a new engine and
my mountain bike is the daily driver.

> 3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?

Reason I got it was for long trips - most of my tours involve extra
clearance and traction at some point during the drive. Cross country? I
usually leach onto someone who gets more than 10 mpg and pay for all their
gas for state-to-state cruises - still a monstrous savings for me (and the
atmosphere).

I treat the Bronco like a utility station wagon - load it down, sleep on top
of the load, drive long hours to remote camp spots. Baja, Lost Coast, east
side of the Sierras. More comfort, versatility and durability than any
other SUV I have toured with (though I wish I were shorter when sleeping in
it).

I work as a kayak guide and this will be a primary vehicle for guided trips
to Baja in the next couple of years - some 'work truck.' It's field
maintainable and somewhat understated for Baja - not too shiny and new.

It's my belief that keeping my old truck around is not too bad for the
environment (in spite of it's nickname 'Global Warmer') - not many trucks
these days get much better mileage for equal power and weight. As long as
that is why I keep the truck around (to have a beefy, heavy car to knock
cows, vacas, off of Mexican highways) then I am justified. Plus I save in
some maintenance costs.

Plus it's Y2K compliant.

Jeff
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 08:36:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee yahoo.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Truck Use Survey 2

1. What year and model truck do you have?

1953 F100 (no salt, no rust, CA truck)

2. Which of the following best describes your truck:

A. Competely restored to showroom condition or
better.

Much more than B, close to A or better. It is
extensivly modified w/a 400 with Cleveland heads, C6,
cam, headers, CD ignition, Edelbrock, Carter 750cfm,
Ford 9" w/3.25 gears and equalock. It has a new bed
and fresh paint, AM/FM/CD, PS, PDB, Tilt and IFS. I am
working on air conditioning for next summer. I also
need some interior work. Most of the work is
professionally done. I normally take a bus to work,
but I use the truck every day to the Park and Ride.
Occasionally I take it to work, but I hate to subject
it to the traffic here in the SF Bay area.

B. Unrestored original or amateur restoration. From
30 feet it looks like a new truck.

C. Running truck with decent body and mostly
original components but needs work.

D. Project truck which needs a motor, driveline, or
bodywork before being drivable.

3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a
routine basis?

Mechanically I would not hesitate to drive this
truck anywhere, but it gets 10 MPG on a good day and
has only a 16 gal tank. I would be stopping for gas
every 120 miles. The ride isn't to bad on a good road,
but the interior noise level would drive you out of
the cab.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 11:36:31 -0500
From: "J. Doss Halsey" isl-inc.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - truck use survey

> 1. What year and model truck do you have?

I have a '68 F250 camper special. It's an everyday truck, but I trade off
with the other vehicles.

> 2. Which of the following best describes your truck:

E. none of the above. Under construction. Solid foundation, ratty exterior.
Recently rebuilt 390. New cab mounts. Cab off frame, new paint on frame.
Under the hood or laying down looking up this truck looks new!

> 3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?

From a reliability standpoint, sure. It is more reliable than my Alfa and
there is plenty of people qualified to help along the way. Parts to keep it
running are readily available. If I was going cross country, I would ask
this list for phone numbers and pay a few visits.

It is not the most comfortable thing in the world, however.

Doss Halsey
'68 F250 Camper Special

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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:33:26 -0600
From: "Alex Beshirs" popi.net>
Subject: [none]

1. What year and model truck do you have? 1968 F-100 240 C-6

2. Which of the following best describes your truck:

C. Original, but needs new paint job and minor body work.

3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?
If I had the time and gas, sure I would.

Alex

Men stumble over the truth from time to time, but most pick themselves up
and hurry off as if nothing happened -- Winston Churchill

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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:07:40 EST
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey

In a message dated 12/26/1999 5:50:58 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
aantipas sopris.net writes:

<< 1. What year and model truck do you have?
2. Do you drive it everyday or is it a "hobby" truck?
3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis? >>

1.) 1977 Ford F-150 short bed regular cab
2.) I drive it EVERYDAY!!!! To school and everywhere else I gotta go
3.) No I probably wouldn't drive it cross country on a routine basis because
I honestly don't think it's that reliable. A LOT of work has been done to it
since I got it, ad I don't mind taking it on road trips, but cross country is
a lil far. Maybe I'd do it once, I dunno

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!!!~*~*
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:11:20 EST
From: Bad4dFillyaol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2

In a message dated 12/26/1999 7:42:35 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
aantipassopris.net writes:

<< 2. Which of the following best describes your truck:

A. Competely restored to showroom condition or better
B. Unrestored original or amateur restoration. From 30 feet
it looks like a new truck.
C. Running truck with decent body and mostly original
components but needs work.
D. Project truck which needs a motor, driveline, or bodywork
before being drivable. >>

Between B and C.......nowhere near being a showroom truck from previous owners hunting trips> but after dad emptied his wallet it runs
pretty darn well now and from about 200 feet away it looks new *laughing*

*~*~Lisa and Emvy~*~*
*~*~SIlly boys....trucks are for GIRLS!!!~*~*
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:38:28 EST
From: GMontgo930aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)

In a message dated 12/27/99 11:06:41 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3visteon.com writes:

> As I recall George, the modulator, at rest positions the valve which I
> presume affects the line pressure, not sure, so by changing the length you
> change the line pressure at zero manifold pressure or WOT. As soon as the
> manifold vacuum begins to increase the modulator moves and the valve moves
> to cause the shift so I think I made it shorter but I really can't
remember.
>
> I do recall that it was staying in too long so I wanted it to shift sooner
> but I don't remember the details now. The idea is that you can fine tune
> the shift point for a given engine so it will shift when you want without
> having to let off the gas. Popular shift kits do that too by changing some
> of the spring values but I couldn't begine to tell you how it all relates,
> I've never really studied all the circuits.
>
> This was a trick my instructor showed me and I tried it and found that it
> did change the shift point, beyond that, I'm pretty foggy :-(
>

Ok, well thanks a bunch Gary. Hopefully Ill begin to work on the origional C6
from my bronco. I think it's got the wide ratio gearset that you talk about
cause this new one just dont feel right or the same. This new one shifts
great, but it always feels like Im lugging and seems to be shifting early (at
low rpms mostly). Well, Ill let ya know how it turns out when I get her done.
Probibly a little while after I start my new job and get teh AXOD in my
Taurus fixed!

George

George
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:48:55 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Ford 9" and 8.8"

Ford Lockers are called "Traction Loc", Dana/ford lockers are called "Trac
Loc". If your truck is a 1/2 ton type and the housing has a module bolted
into the front with a pan welded on the rear of the housing then it is a 9".
There are several types of lockers you can put in one of these including the
OEM verson with 4 pinions and the Auburn and now the Detroit gearless locker
as well as the "real" lockers, all starting at about $200 and going up from
there....

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> haha.. sorry.. *lol me* no I mean, I'd like to put a posi
> locker in the 9"
> but I just don't know if its really a 9"... *duh me * I
> was wonderin' if
> sum1 could tell me the difference in differentials, =) *duhme again*
> Thanks
> -mark-
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:58:55 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)

Something I noticed right away with the 460 is that the C-6 will upshift at
low throttle settings by 15 mph, all three gears. It has so much torque
that a normal take off doesn't require much throttle so vacuum stays
relatively high. The standard C-6 should require more throttle to get it
moving and thus should shift later I would think, all other things being
equal but there are several modulators for this tranny too so you might just
try a different modulator and, again, I'm sorry I can't be of more help but
they are color coded like the dizzy vacs. They are also adjustable through
the vacuum tube like the dizzy vacs so you might want to give that a try.
Keep a log of the turns and direction so you can put it back if you run into
trouble :-) This adjustment, just as on the dizzy, simply changes the
spring pressure and thus the point it will shift but doesn't have as much
affect as changing the pin length as I recall.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Ok, well thanks a bunch Gary. Hopefully Ill begin to work on
> the origional C6
> from my bronco. I think it's got the wide ratio gearset that
> you talk about
> cause this new one just dont feel right or the same. This new
> one shifts
> great, but it always feels like Im lugging and seems to be
> shifting early (at
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:03:59 -0800 (PST)
From: dracopacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s

Wish wrote:
> Same stuff on my truck 'cept the disc brake portion ...

Why does that not surprize me. :)

>> Is it possible to identify the year truck that these knuckles
>> came from? The only numbers on them are 620170L and 620169R.

> Don't think so, I think those are just the part numbers from Dana,
> I can compare that with mine when I get home, but I'd be surprised
> if they were different (I've got a 76 axle on the bench)

Let me know what you find. From exploded drawings it looks like a
drum brake knuckle has a threaded hole in the top for a bracket. I
assume it holds the brake line. The ones I have don't have this
hole.

>> Can I use the drag link from a '79 with the afore-mentioned tie
>> rod with the existing manual steering box?
>
> This makes for a bear to drive, but it can be done (BTDT)

Especially with 33-12.50's. One of these days I have to get some
narrower wheels and tires. For now I would be happy to get the
truck back on the road. Also I may be having a local 4WD shop
mount the integral box and I would have to drive it to them.

> ...Tony had some pics, if he can get them to me I can throw
> them on the web for you ...

I would really appreciate that.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
temporarily in live mode

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:04:59 -0800 (PST)
From: dracopacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s

Stock Man wrote:
>In a message dated 12/27/99 10:15:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>wishiastate.edu writes:
>>
>> > Is it possible to identify the year truck that these knuckles came
>> > from? The only numbers on them are 620170L and 620169R.
>>
>> Don't think so, I think those are just the part numbers from Dana,
>
> Look left of that part # and you should find a date code. (ie.
> 2 27 9B3 -- Feb. 27, 1969, "B" shift, Line 3); I doubt there are
> any records from Ford, Dana or otherwise to specifically identify
> the truck this unit came from or any other units for that matter.

There is nothing to the left of the number. On the other side of the
knuckle's arm is 318 8. The first 8 might be a B. Make any sense?


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
temporarily in live mode

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:39:31 -0800
From: "S.Harkema" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Poll

>1. What year and model truck do you have?

91 Explorer-84 F 250 4x2-76 F 250 4x4
>2. Do you drive it everyday or is it a "hobby" truck?

76 is hobby truck other two are the daily drivers

>3. Would you drive your truck cross-country
Would not hesitate to take any of them cross coutry.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 13:48:46 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Truck Use Survey 2

> 1. What year and model truck do you have?

78's, Bronco and F-150

> 2. Which of the following best describes your truck:

How does "Sanford and Son" strike you? That's what my wife calls it :-)
The bronco is a little better but rust has taken it's toll on both of
them.....:-(

> 3. Would you drive your truck cross-country on a routine basis?

The bronco will make it as far as I want to go and is fairly comfy in spite
of a rattly NP435, growling heiney and vibrating engine but the Pickup is in
serious need of repairs in every department :-( Both have served as daily
drivers and play trucks as well but if I had to name a favorite play truck
it would have to be my beloved long wheel base bronco (75 ford van converted
to 4x4) which died an ignomineous death in my drive way at the hands of the
owner, wielding his trusty torch (no, this did not result in an accident
:-)) but lives on in my barn and my pickup and my heart :-) (SobSobSob :-( )

I don't believe in "Play" trucks. All my vehicles do whatever comes along
and if they can't cut the mustard then.........they are gone! One reason I
will never have a new truck, can't justify scratching up a $30,000 vehicle
and would never, like most people out there do today, own one just for
looks. I might own a 68 XKE, V-12 Jag or 55 bird just for looks but.....
Even my festiva hauled hay and lumber for god's sake :-) (never haul hay in
a car unless you put it in plastic first (do I need to explain?) :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 14:09:35 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Starting front axle rebuild - Steering ?'s

When I did my van I used a bronco front end and stock van tie rods which
have the smaller tapered pin. I found the "proper" thickness shim stock and
wrapped it around them to make them fit properly into the larger holes.
There is really no reason this won't work well if you are carefull to make
the ends match and not over lap etc.. but the tierods are not as strong as
the 4x4 rods so you still sacrifice some strength and life in the ends. I
went even further in my butchery and welded ends on the main rod to
facilitate adjustments, a real no no. Never weld tie rods drag links or
track bars, it just aint safe. I got away with it but would not do it
again.

The larger pin tie rod also accepts a large pin drag link

I think you will find that the manual box is made with the small hole also

I would re-do the whole axle while you have it off and cleaned up. This is
a good time to fix everything including such things as the inner axle seals,
axle ujoints, needle bearings and inner spindel seals etc.. If it has ball
joints then you will be looking at about $26/pc for good ones and as little
as $18 for the cheap ones as I recall. Clean everything, debure all the
holes, sand out the rust and use anti-seize when you press them back in.

When you get ready to set them up in the axle you have to use a torque
wrench on the top threaded sleeve and it takes a special tool to do it
right. If you guess at this step you may cause your new joints to wear out
prematurely. I can give you the exact sequence if you like.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> 1) When I disconnected the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles,
> there was some shim stock wrapped around the tapers. Also the
> Castle nuts screwed down too far so the cotter pin didn't really
> engage the cutouts in the nuts. I remember someone saying the
> tapers are a different size between drum brake and disk brake
> knuckles.
>
> If I get a tie rod for a '79, Will it work with my existing drag
> link?
>
> Can I use the drag link from a '79 with the afore-mentioned tie
> rod with the existing manual steering box? I would toss the ram-
> assist stuff until I could get an integral box mounted.
>
> 3) With everything disconnected and the spindles removed, one
> steering knuckle is very easy to turn by hand and the other is
> pretty stiff. I don't feel any play in either one. Should I
> replace the ball joints on the stiff side, or just replace them
> all?
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End of 61-79-list-digest V3 #477
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