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From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #469
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61-79-list-digest Tuesday, December 21 1999 Volume 03 : Number 469



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Toys and stuff....
Re: FTE 61-79 - Toys and stuff....
Re: FTE 61-79 - Toys and stuff....
RE: FTE 61-79 - Toys and stuff....
FTE 61-79 - Re: Gasket Matching
RE: FTE 61-79 - Toys and stuff....
FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE - barrel o' fun, etc
RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 and ATSG, what are these trannys?
FTE 61-79 - Re: weird sights
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: weird sights
Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6 and ATSG, what are these trannys?
RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 and ATSG, what are these trannys?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Reverse rotation nuts
FTE 61-79 - re: One More Time
FTE 61-79 - Rough running on some cold mornings
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Reverse rotation nuts
FTE 61-79 - Emissions test
FTE 61-79 - For Sale '61 Ford F100 Unibody
Re: FTE 61-79 - Emissions test
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on some cold mornings
RE: FTE 61-79 - re: One More Time
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on some cold mornings
FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on some cold mornings
FTE 61-79 - Teflon tape...
FTE 61-79 - Dropping back to idle
FTE 61-79 - Re: Salvage yards in winter
FTE 61-79 - Running 205 TC backwards in low range.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Emissions test
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dropping back to idle
RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)
RE: FTE 61-79 - Dropping back to idle
RE: FTE 61-79 - Running 205 TC backwards in low range.
RE: FTE 61-79 - Dropping back to idle
Re: FTE 61-79 - Running 205 TC backwards in low range.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dropping back to idle
RE: FTE 61-79 - Running 205 TC backwards in low range.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Running 205 TC backwards in low range.
FTE 61-79 -Elementary Truckese
RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)
Re: FTE 61-79 -Elementary Truckese
RE: FTE 61-79 -Elementary Truckese
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dropping back to idle
Re: FTE 61-79 - Teflon tape...
FTE 61-79 - 62 4x4
FTE 61-79 - Re: Salvage Yards in Winter
FTE 61-79 - Re: The cold & all
FTE 61-79 - Re: Sag
FTE 61-79 - Re: Winter Junkyarding
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: The cold & all
Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 07:24:16 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Toys and stuff....

Duhhhhhh! Why didn't I think of that???? That's what Steve would have done
too :-) Guess I'm not as practical as I thought, eh? At 280 gph it
shouldn't take too long to fill up 20 gal, eh? Just ordered a pump for $16
but I can use it for many other things as well so I don't consider it a loss
but that is a very good idea which I certainly will give a try, thanks :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> could get a cheap
> > pump of some kind.....where's that stupid catalog when you need it
> > anyway....:-)
>
> Use your parts washer pump!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 07:31:43 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Toys and stuff....

In a message dated 12/21/99 7:26:44 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:

> Duhhhhhh! Why didn't I think of that????

Because most parts washer pumps are submersible and attached to the tank in
some fashion. The pump bodies are generally too large to fit into a drum
bung. I would use a pressure siphon. One hose in the mix to the wash drum,
the other hose to pressurize the supply drum. Works like a charm evertime.
I guess it's a moot point since you ordered a pump.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:17:36 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Toys and stuff....

TBeeee aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 12/21/99 7:26:44 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> gpeters3 visteon.com writes:
>
> > Duhhhhhh! Why didn't I think of that????
>
> Because most parts washer pumps are submersible and attached to the tank in
> some fashion. The pump bodies are generally too large to fit into a drum
> bung. I would use a pressure siphon. One hose in the mix to the wash drum,
> the other hose to pressurize the supply drum. Works like a charm evertime.
> I guess it's a moot point since you ordered a pump.
>

Speaking of which, anyone know a source for a cheap, self priming,
drill run pump I could use to transfer gas from one tank to another?

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:18:02 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Toys and stuff....

This is another good idea which I have used in the past and again didn't
even consider...:-( Don't even need any special equipment, just stuff rags
around the hose, stick the air line in the small bung and let 'er rip. You
can move a lot of liquid in a hurry that way. Just so happens I have some
1" black pipe.......:-)

Pumps require energy and effort.....avoinding all that is never moot :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > Duhhhhhh! Why didn't I think of that????
>
> bung. I would use a pressure siphon. One hose in the mix to
> the wash drum,
> the other hose to pressurize the supply drum. Works like a
> charm evertime.
> I guess it's a moot point since you ordered a pump.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 07:44:05 -0600 (CST)
From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Gasket Matching

I have an article here in Hot Rod mag that compared gasket matching, to
porting, to porting and polishing the runners and reshaping the
combustion chamber. According to them, they got very little improvement
on the flow bench and absolutely no torque or horsepower gains out of
gasket matching. I would recommend saving your time and money and
investing in something that will have more gains.

The only defense I can think of for the article is it was performed on a
Chevy engine that was using headers.... maybe manifolds will be more
responsive to gasket matching? who knows...

Laters, Danny Ling

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 09:13:42 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Toys and stuff....

Take a look at harborfreight.com or northernhydraulic.com and look in their
on line catalogs. If it's not listed you can call and ask what they have.
They had one that was a manual lift pump but would take a little endurance I
think to transfer a whole tank....:-)

Never mind....I just went and looked and even looked in my JCW catalog and
don't see anything :-( BUMMER!

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > > Duhhhhhh! Why didn't I think of that????
> >
> > Because most parts washer pumps are submersible and
> attached to the tank in
>
> Speaking of which, anyone know a source for a cheap, self priming,
> drill run pump I could use to transfer gas from one tank to another?
>
> OX
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:13:29 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE - barrel o' fun, etc

I felt it was appropriate for the list so sent to them as well Jeff :-)

Yes, I've been lax myself about this stuff but I have gotten wiser in my old
age and avoid prolonged contact with such chemicals. I wear gloves for many
things now where it's appropriate and doesn't interfere with dexterity
requirments etc.. Having a bath room with hot water and good hand cleaner
to keep the stuff off is a vast improvement over my old shop too :-) I
think my next purchase will be an official shop coffee pot :-)

For washing parts it's a good idea to have a HD pair of gloves and use them
every time. This stuff not only is toxic in itself but eventually contains
heavy metals and other toxins which can be absorbed and cause damage. If
allowed to be reused too long it will also contain bacteria as the PH drops
to acidic. Bacteria do not like caustic materials but thrive in acidic
conditions. Just breathing the stuff can make you sick in that case. You
won't get real sick, just not quite up to snuff due to "low grade" infection
from this.

BTW, gruesome stories don't excite me much.....YUK! My ex-brother in law
fell into a chemical tank on an oil barge and was burned very badly. The
fumes made him pass out so that he fell into the liquid he was cleaning up
and it got inside him so that bones and muscle and organs were affected and
he nearly died. He did not follow the rules and paid the price....:-( Very
sad really :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> And as far as toxic solvents - this has no FTE content
> whatsoever - avoid
> HF. Hydroflouric acid was one of the key components of my
> thesis college
> (geochemistry), and the advisor handed me the bottle wearing
> three sets of
> gloves, an apron and a face shield.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:25:07 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 and ATSG, what are these trannys?

That number was not in the list....I suppose they don't support that 0ne?
Or is has a different name they are using?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > in my 94 bird with 3.8l engine??? so I can order the stupid
> thing? :-)
>
> 4R70W, aka early on an AODE/W. DOn't forget to do the 1-2 acculmulator
> piston upgrade.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:37:50 -0700
From: "Richard Currit" state.wy.us>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: weird sights

Just a curious thought about left wheels falling off. And a display of
my lack of knowledge of Ford history. I know that Chrysler kept left
hand threads on the left side hubs up until about 1970 (something the
owners of these vehicles have to be very careful about at tire shops).
I have heard that most auto manufacturers did this in the way back when.
Did Ford ever do this? If so when did they stop? Maybe with the new
alloys and such that are used now it might be a good idea again?
High Plains Richard
'72 F-100, 300 I6
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 09:53:47 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: weird sights

> Maybe with the new
> alloys and such that are used now it might be a good idea again?

I've often thought that ... but working in the computer industry at the
university I get to see the general level of mentality of the "typical user"
... trust me left hand threads are a bad idea from the support standpoint
...

I'll sign this one
Frustrated Admin
wish

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 07:58:52 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6 and ATSG, what are these trannys?

Couple of things. ATX in a SHO? The ATX was in Tempos and Escorts, I did
enough overhaul quotes out of the Chiltons to know for sure. I really doubt
it was used behind the Yamaha 6 cyl they put in the first SHOs but I wasn't
working at the dealer than so I don't know for sure. I guess they could have
installed a beefed up version. Second, T-Bird using a Taurus/Sable type
tranny? Since the Taurus/Sable is FWD and the T-Bird is RWD I have a hard
time with this.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- ----- Original Message -----
From: aol.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6 and ATSG, what are these trannys?


> ATX used in the Taurus SHO. AXOD Taurus/Sable 86-90. AXODE
> 91-94 Taurus/Sable. AX4S Taurus 3.2 DOHC. CD4E Contour 2.5 24 valve 97
time
> frame. 4R44E Ranger 4 speed on 97 with 2.3, simular to E4OD. 4R55E
Ranger 4
> speed used only with SOHC 4.0. 4F20E Villager mini van 3.0 SOHC. 5R55E
> 5speed used in Rangers with only 4.0 SOHC. I really do not think any of
> these will work well in our 61-79 Ford Trucks, but I could be wrong. As
for
> your T-Bird I do not know which tranny it has, but suspect it uses a
> Taurus/Sable type.



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 10:20:38 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 and ATSG, what are these trannys?

> Couple of things. ATX in a SHO?

Not until 91 or 93, whenever the body style changed ... took em a while to
get one to hold the umph of the SHO :)

> Second, T-Bird using a Taurus/Sable type
> tranny? Since the Taurus/Sable is FWD and the T-Bird is RWD I have a hard
> time with this.

I'm pretty sure the 'Bird uses the 4R70W (or am I confused on this number
again?) that the Mustang uses ... they shared motors and driveline layout,
I'd be surprised if they didn't share trannies ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 12:35:25 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Reverse rotation nuts

They stopped because it was Never a good idea :-) Everyone was vying for
honors as having the latest and greatest scientific finds incorporated in
their offerings. Based on the laws of inertia and other things the thinking
was that as the tire rotated the nuts would tend to stand still so the
rotary motion of the wheel would tend to tighten the nuts.

Stop and think about that for a minute....is the inertia force in the nut
greater than the vibratory forces induced into it by the road etc..? Not
bloody likely! :-) Do you honestly believe that the inertial forces of a
nut weighing a couple of ounces on a wheel rotating at about 500 rpm is
sufficient to force any kind of activity at all considering even just the
friction of the threads alone as an opposing force? What happens when you
apply the brakes? Does the nut now tend to continue moving with any force
and in what direction? Wouldn't this tend to offset any gains from the
reverse threads?

There is a minute, theoretical force generated but does it even begin to
overcome any of the other forces mentioned? I personally don't believe it.
The one place reversed threads made sense and still does, even though it's
illegal to use them on the street now, is with spinners which are at the
axis of rotation where more significant forces will act on them to at least
keep them on, if not tight and even then, once the wheel begins to move
around on the hub it will over come this force as well and thay can unscrew
from the wobble action.....of course if you let it go that far.....shame on
you :-) A very common sight back in the 60's was to see a sport car owner
beating his spinners into submission.....just to make sure and this on a
regular basis as a precaution, not just when working on the wheels :-)

I've had tire places tell me they would not guarantee that an aluminum wheel
would stay on. They would mount them and put them on but it was up to me to
make sure they stayed on.....BULL! If you use the correct lug nuts and
torque them correctly they are not going to come off which brings us back to
the old "no oil or grease" theory which is now also history because they
found out that you can not properly torque the nut to the desired "tension"
without lube :-) The frictional forces of the cone against the wheel and
the dry, rusty threads actually robbed so much torque that the lug was not
put into sufficient tension to retain the nut. With lube the ramping action
of the threads became a greater part of the equation so more tension can be
applied for the same torque reading at the wrench and the spring action of
the tension on the lug is what keeps the nut from moving by supplying the
necessary friction between the wheel and nut, not the nut and lug (although
there is considerable friction there too :-))

How often have you attempted to remove an old nut only to break the lug by
applying more and more effort until something gave? This principle works in
the opposit direction as well :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I have heard that most auto manufacturers did this in the way
> back when.
> Did Ford ever do this? If so when did they stop? Maybe with the new
> alloys and such that are used now it might be a good idea again?
> High Plains Richard
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 10:44:28 -0700
From: Harry Vermillion verinet.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re: One More Time

Thanks for the quick reply. I guess I'll pull the box again and see
what I can do, after the holidays. Know where I can get a replacement
bearing? There feels to be a slight "notch" or a "groove" in the
steeing when I'm traveling in a straigth line, and play on either side
of it, more on the right. I've had the kingpins replaced and the
alignment set by Bear F&A in Denver. They put in the bronze bushings as
well as bent one of the I-beams and it's been great ever since, except
for this increasing play. In fact, it still tracks very well, with no
wander to either side on a straight stretch of highway if I'm in the
groove. I had the tie rods looked at by another guy in Brighton about
30K ago and though I was ready with all of the ends, he only replaced
the drag link - everything's stll pretty good there.

I don't know that this is chatter as much as what I thought was an
imbalance between the front and rear brakes. I've looked over the front
brakes and everything looks good. New drums, cylinder rebuild (honed
'em too), new hardware and shoes. When I use the hand brake, it's
smooth, so I'm pretty sure it's the front.
Get it uip in the air once more, I guess.

Thanks for the advice. How many of these miracle oils ("Kinetic Energy
Formula") do they have out there? Any of them any good? I saw the ads
on TV a couple of years ago that showed them running a car with no oil
after using the stuff they were hawking, but never went into it. Always
wondered though - like how much they were paying the names for their
endorsements.

- --
Harry E. Vermillion
E-mail: north40 verinet.com


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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 09:44:04 -0800
From: "Chuck White" jps.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on some cold mornings

Hello all. I've got a '71 F-250 with the 390 and a C-6. It's been punched
up a bit with a cam, Holley, Edelbrock intake, headers etc. Here's the
problem. On some cold mornings the truck runs really rough until it gets
completely warmed up about 2 or 3 miles of driving. I have a Mallory dual
point distributor on it that I was assuming was gathering condensatiuon.
Trouble is when I pop the cap off I can't seem to see any moisture at all.
There is already a small hole about the size of a pencil lead drilled in
the side of the cap (it was there when I purchased the unit used). My first
car was a '64 Comet which occasionaly had the same problem but I always
found moisture in the cap when I opened it. Does anybody have any ideas?
Also can someone tell me where I can get a manual for this distributor?

Thanks for any help, Chuck

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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 09:55:34 -0800
From: Don Grossman pacific.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Reverse rotation nuts

HE HE HE

This reminds me of the first time a friend of mine tried to remove the
wheels and tires off an old jeep he purchased. It sat for a long time
and need the tires replaced. Anyway he tells me he got one side off
just fine but all the nuts are rusted on solid on the other. He worked
on it for 2 or 3 days and couldn't get the nuts off. I get over there
and 3 of the nuts are almost completely thru the wheel. I pointed out
the little "L" in the center of the lug and he kicked him self for a
week. We ended up torching off the wheel because there was nothing left
to get a lug wrench on.

Laters


- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
99 Contour
63 F-100 4x4
43 GPW
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 10:15:03 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Emissions test

Don't want to get a whole debate going but I just thought I'd throw an FYI
out here: My 1979 F250 4X4 with bone stock 400 including the factory 2V just
passed the emissions test in Wa state with flying colors despite having had
the cats removed several years ago by the P.O.

The test in WA on 4WD vehicles is a simple 2 speed, idle and cruise with no
NOx measurement. 2WD vehicles must take the dyno test which I believe does
include NOx readings.

For the 2 speed, HC, CO and CO+CO2 are measured. Standards are max 600 ppm
HC, max 3% CO, >6% CO+CO2 at both cruise and idle. My truck did 378 ppm HC
idle, 26 cruise, 0.34% CO idle, 0.08% cruise, and 8.95% CO+CO2 idle,
9.83 cruise.

I did have to go out and buy 2 new gas caps since they started measuring
evap emissions last year. So I bought the two cheapest Stant caps I could
find for $3.99 a piece, put them on in the parking lot for the test then
changed back to my locking ones after the test. The new ones go in the spare
parts box 'til my next test in 2001. What a joke!


"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:48:23 EST
From: DWBaile aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - For Sale '61 Ford F100 Unibody

I have been trying to get several of my trucks done for quite some time and
it has occurred to me that I am not going to be able to get to this truck for
quite a while. I have decided to sell it. It is a '61 Ford Unibody short
bed with the big back window and trim. The truck has an engine that needs
rebuilding, and the body has been in North Carolina for all but the last two
years of its life. It is now in Albuquerque, New Mexico. I can do some
pictures if anyone is interested. Please email me and I will get the Picts
right away. I am going to ask $1500.00 for the truck, which is what I paid
for it in North Carolina before I drug it out here.
Let me know if you are interested.
Thanks,
Don
DWBaile aol.com
1948 Ford F-1
1950 Ford F-1
1976 Ford F-150 Super Cab
1978 Ford F-250 Crew Cab
1974 Maverick (Donor Car)
1993 Bronco
1991 Lincoln Town Car
1980 IH Scout Turbo Diesel
1970 Jeepster Commando
1958 Chevy Panel Wagon
1979 Dodge Club Cab Turbo Diesel
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 14:03:39 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Emissions test

Bill Beyer wrote:

> The test in WA on 4WD vehicles is a simple 2 speed, idle and cruise with no
> NOx measurement. 2WD vehicles must take the dyno test which I believe does
> include NOx readings.

Full time 4WD or just 4WD?

> For the 2 speed, HC, CO and CO+CO2 are measured. Standards are max 600 ppm
> HC,

A friend of mine just took his 95 Impala SS through the new NJ dyno
test this morning, limit was 734 ppm HC.

max 3% CO, >6% CO+CO2 at both cruise and idle. My truck did 378 ppm HC

> idle, 26 cruise, 0.34% CO idle, 0.08% cruise, and 8.95% CO+CO2 idle,
> 9.83 cruise.
>
> I did have to go out and buy 2 new gas caps since they started measuring
> evap emissions last year. So I bought the two cheapest Stant caps I could
> find for $3.99 a piece, put them on in the parking lot for the test then
> changed back to my locking ones after the test. The new ones go in the spare
> parts box 'til my next test in 2001. What a joke!

I hear ya!!!, I hear you have your hands full up there in Wa. with them
tree huggers.

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:19:11 -0600
From: Craig Cantrell kscable.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on some cold mornings

What kind of choke you got on that bugger?

Chuck White wrote:

> Hello all. I've got a '71 F-250 with the 390 and a C-6. It's been punched
> up a bit with a cam, Holley, Edelbrock intake, headers etc. Here's the
> problem. On some cold mornings the truck runs really rough until it gets
> completely warmed up about 2 or 3 miles of driving. I have a Mallory dual
> point distributor on it that I was assuming was gathering condensatiuon.
> Trouble is when I pop the cap off I can't seem to see any moisture at all.
> There is already a small hole about the size of a pencil lead drilled in
> the side of the cap (it was there when I purchased the unit used). My first
> car was a '64 Comet which occasionaly had the same problem but I always
> found moisture in the cap when I opened it. Does anybody have any ideas?
> Also can someone tell me where I can get a manual for this distributor?
>
> Thanks for any help, Chuck
>
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- --
Craig
- --
1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149
"Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle
South Central Kansas Mustang Club
See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc


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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 14:27:13 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - re: One More Time

Harry, it sounds like you have the sector too tight? This should be
adjusted with the box at exact center which is also the tightest point in
it's travel and it should not have any preload on it at that point, just
neutral, zero clearance but no preload.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> bearing? There feels to be a slight "notch" or a "groove" in the
> steeing when I'm traveling in a straigth line, and play on either side
> of it, more on the right. I've had the kingpins replaced and the
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 14:31:07 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on some cold mornings

If it only runs rough on cold mornings you probably have choke problem,
either too much or not enough. If too much then you need to look at the
pulloff and make sure it's pulling it open far enough once it starts, if not
enough then you need to adjust the black cap or replace the cap and spring
etc....

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Hello all. I've got a '71 F-250 with the 390 and a C-6.
> It's been punched
> up a bit with a cam, Holley, Edelbrock intake, headers etc. Here's the
> problem. On some cold mornings the truck runs really rough
> until it gets
> completely warmed up about 2 or 3 miles of driving. I have a
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 11:49:58 -0800 (PST)
From: rich may yahoo.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)

I was pulling out of the gas station yesterday, put it
in gear and started to drive off. Guess what....it was
stuck in first. I pulled over, put it in park and back
into drive. The same thing happened. I had to creep
home. I came home today, and it was fine when I left
work, but when I turned onto my road.....first gear
again. It seems to happen once there is heat that has
been built up. It doesn't want to upshift. I can go to
4500rpm and still nothing. I was in first and I
crested this hill, and it kicked it into second. So
today I got to drive home in second. There also seems
to be a new vibration (still haven't found the first
vibration). What could this be?

Rich

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:42:41 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rough running on some cold mornings

> Hello all. I've got a '71 F-250 with the 390 and a C-6. It's
> been punched
> up a bit with a cam, Holley, Edelbrock intake, headers etc. Here's the
> problem. On some cold mornings the truck runs really rough until it gets
> completely warmed up about 2 or 3 miles of driving.

Have you checked the points to be sure they are set properly ? Usually I
find that mine get a little funky and its hard to start cold then ... I
should really replace the wires too since I pulled the end off of one and
was able to get it to just go back on ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 14:49:32 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Teflon tape...

Oh, BTW, that tape I was bragging about......my bifocals and astygmatism got
me in trouble again....:-( Oh, it does say gas but....what I thought I was
reading as "Gas...o..line" was really "Gas....line".......no "o" so it's for
propane and natural gas, not gasoline. Sorry I may have misled some on this
one. Still better than water teflon for the brake bleeders but may
deteriorate over time, not sure at this point. What the hey, it's cheap and
you can always put new on each time :-) Meanwhile your bleeders will
absolutely not ever break off again :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 12:09:55 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny" wenet.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dropping back to idle

The truck is running fine in just about every respect, but when I stop
at a red light, (taking my foot off the gas and depressing the clutch
pedal), the engine speed usually doesnt drop back to a slow idle unless
I punch the gas pedal quickly once, which never fails to do the trick.

Now, the mechanic, without even looking inside the hood, says he needs
special equipment which he doesnt have, to fix the problem. I think he
probably needs nothing more than some lubricant and maybe a screw driver
or wrench. Who is right?
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 15:09:32 -0500
From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Salvage yards in winter

> During the summertime it is difficult to find the right parts because
> others have gotten there first. I'm working on a theory that parts
> should be easier to find in the salvage yards during the winter
> because the "casual shopper" will not be present due to weather
> conditions. Is this a valid theory?

The casual shoppers don't go in winter, but the die-hard parts
crawlers go to the yards no matter what the weather conditions :-)


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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 15:10:40 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Running 205 TC backwards in low range.

Hi all

Anybody ever tear into a 205 TC. I see from the manual that the gears
are helically cut. I would assume that running in reverse would be
running on the opposite side of gear teeth, so running it backwards
(flipping case over) would be like running it in reverse all the time. I
am thinking of running an extra 205 backwards behind the 205 that is in
the truck. I would tear out the FWD gear set and make a cover to close
off the FWD yoke hole. I need to cut my gear ratio in half for highway
cruising with my new trail rig. The MOG axles I am thinking of stuffing
under my 78 have a 7.56 gear ratio. I have researched everything I can
think of. I looked at;

1. Building an M motor for continuous 4000 RPM opertion on hgihway (
50 MPH). Will cost anywhere from 2-4K$.

2. Getting a big block E4OD, rebuild it and add controller. In the
neighborhood of 3K$.

3. Overdrive units for 2.2-2.7K$, but they only drop it 22%, not worth
it.

4. Runing 205 backwards in LR. I have 3, 205's, so no cost there.
Making crossmember would be 100$ or less. Might need custom yokes, but
would be less than several thousand. I saw in my 78 shop maual what
looked like a divorced 205 case, as it had yokes on both ends. This
might be a better option, using single U-joint between the cases. I will
definately need some kind of shaft to fit in output (which used to be
input) unless I can find the divorced case input shaft. Were there any
other internal changes besides input shaft with divorced case.

So why coudln't I do this (besides the fact I'm crazy :-)), any
comments??

OX
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 12:11:34 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Emissions test

- ----- Original Message -----
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Emissions test


>
> Full time 4WD or just 4WD?

Heh...heh...all 4WD...kinda stupid eh?




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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 14:21:05 -0600
From: Craig Cantrell kscable.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dropping back to idle

What truck and engine do you have?

"Kiernan, Denny" wrote:

> The truck is running fine in just about every respect, but when I stop
> at a red light, (taking my foot off the gas and depressing the clutch
> pedal), the engine speed usually doesnt drop back to a slow idle unless
> I punch the gas pedal quickly once, which never fails to do the trick.
>
> Now, the mechanic, without even looking inside the hood, says he needs
> special equipment which he doesnt have, to fix the problem. I think he
> probably needs nothing more than some lubricant and maybe a screw driver
> or wrench. Who is right?

- --
Craig
- --
1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149
"Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle
South Central Kansas Mustang Club
See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc


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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 15:16:58 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)

Up shifts are a product of line pressure and modulator position. The
governor controls the first gear downshift and positions it for the up shift
so it could be either but usually the governor prevents it from getting into
first not out so it could be as simple as the hose pulled off your modulator
or a bad modulator or a leaky hose. This is in the rear of the main tranny
body on the passenger side right near that corner of the oil pan (tranny oil
pan) and there should be a vac line going to it. This line goes all the way
back up to the engine and hooks up to the manifold at some point.

It will also not up shift if the oil level is low.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I was pulling out of the gas station yesterday, put it
> in gear and started to drive off. Guess what....it was
> stuck in first. I pulled over, put it in park and back
> into drive. The same thing happened. I had to creep
> home. I came home today, and it was fine when I left
> work, but when I turned onto my road.....first gear
> again. It seems to happen once there is heat that has
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 14:20:51 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Dropping back to idle

> The truck is running fine in just about every respect, but when I stop
> at a red light, (taking my foot off the gas and depressing the clutch
> pedal), the engine speed usually doesnt drop back to a slow idle unless
> I punch the gas pedal quickly once, which never fails to do the trick.
>
> Now, the mechanic, without even looking inside the hood, says he needs
> special equipment which he doesnt have, to fix the problem. I think he
> probably needs nothing more than some lubricant and maybe a screw driver
> or wrench. Who is right?

Sounds like a sticky choke ... depending on how the choke is set up you
could both be right ... also be sure the return spring is strong enough to
hold it back against the idle screw ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 14:23:23 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Running 205 TC backwards in low range.

> 4. Runing 205 backwards in LR. I have 3, 205's, so no cost there.
> Making crossmember would be 100$ or less. Might need custom yokes, but
> would be less than several thousand. I saw in my 78 shop maual what
> looked like a divorced 205 case, as it had yokes on both ends. This
> might be a better option, using single U-joint between the cases. I will
> definately need some kind of shaft to fit in output (which used to be
> input) unless I can find the divorced case input shaft. Were there any
> other internal changes besides input shaft with divorced case.
>
> So why coudln't I do this (besides the fact I'm crazy :-)), any
> comments??
>

if you hooked a divorced mount one up, would you need to use the output to
the front of it anyway ? It would eliminate the possibility of 4x4 in the
high range, but if its a trail rig anyway ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 15:23:46 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Dropping back to idle

What year truck? If it's EFI then he may be right but if it's carbed it's a
piece a cake :-) On a carbed engine this is the fast idle screw and cam
which is weighted to fall away as the choke warms up so when you step on the
pedal it releases it and is falls out of the way leaving you with the
dashpot or idle speed screw on the drive side. If this is sludged up then
you need to clean that bugger because this part is very loose generally and
needs no lube :-)

If it's a 4 popper though the secondaries could be sticking like mine do and
some silly cone spray may fix it, that's what I use now, just spray the
dickins out of everything that moves on the carb and you will probably hit
the culprit right where it lives :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> The truck is running fine in just about every respect, but when I stop
> at a red light, (taking my foot off the gas and depressing the clutch
> pedal), the engine speed usually doesnt drop back to a slow
> idle unless
> I punch the gas pedal quickly once, which never fails to do the trick.
>
> Now, the mechanic, without even looking inside the hood, says he needs
> special equipment which he doesnt have, to fix the problem. I think he
> probably needs nothing more than some lubricant and maybe a
> screw driver
> or wrench. Who is right?
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 15:43:05 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Running 205 TC backwards in low range.

William S. Hart wrote:


> if you hooked a divorced mount one up, would you need to use the output to
> the front of it anyway ?

No

> It would eliminate the possibility of 4x4 in the high range, but if >its a trail rig anyway ...

Well, if a 205 divorced case is anything like a married case
internally, then you don't need the gear set even in the case for the
front output. The idler gear set transfers the power to both input and
output, except for 2WD high which just couples the input/ouput with no
gears needed at all. Was the divorced case a 205??

OX
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 12:52:42 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny" wenet.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dropping back to idle

Craig Cantrell wrote:
>
> What truck and engine do you have?

Sorry bout that. '72 F-100 360 2WD Manual everything, 140K
>
> "Kiernan, Denny" wrote:
>
> > The truck is running fine in just about every respect, but when I stop
> > at a red light, (taking my foot off the gas and depressing the clutch
> > pedal), the engine speed usually doesnt drop back to a slow idle unless
> > I punch the gas pedal quickly once, which never fails to do the trick.
> >
> > Now, the mechanic, without even looking inside the hood, says he needs
> > special equipment which he doesnt have, to fix the problem. I think he
> > probably needs nothing more than some lubricant and maybe a screw driver
> > or wrench. Who is right?
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 14:57:38 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Running 205 TC backwards in low range.

> Well, if a 205 divorced case is anything like a married case
> internally, then you don't need the gear set even in the case for the
> front output. The idler gear set transfers the power to both input and
> output, except for 2WD high which just couples the input/ouput with no
> gears needed at all. Was the divorced case a 205??
>

yes, 205's are married and divorced (vice versa just sounds backwards) but
they could be had in either configuration ... you are probably correct in
that you would still need an idler of some sort in there, but you wouldn't
necessarily have to run the yoke and drive shaft was my point, meaning you
wouldn't have to pass power through one of them allowing a "dead end"
instead of a "pass through" .. hope that makes some sense ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 12:58:03 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Running 205 TC backwards in low range.

There were quite a few divorced 205s made...early 70s were the most common I
believe.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"


- ----- Original Message -----
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 12:43 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Running 205 TC backwards in low range.


> Well, if a 205 divorced case is anything like a married case
> internally, then you don't need the gear set even in the case for the
> front output. The idler gear set transfers the power to both input and
> output, except for 2WD high which just couples the input/ouput with no
> gears needed at all. Was the divorced case a 205??



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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:17:10 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny" wenet.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 -Elementary Truckese

The 72 F-100 I've got is all original except for a few items -- new
heater core, new clutch, etc., -- that were repleced with items just
like the parts that wore out. So then, what's the expression you all use
to describe the truck -- "stock everything"?

Denny
'72 F-100 360 2WD Manual everything, 140K
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:24:20 -0800 (PST)
From: rich may yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)

There was a line pulled off the tranny just like you
mentioned. I put it back on and retightened it, and
it shifts again!!!

> .....simple as the hose
> pulled off your modulator
> or a bad modulator or a leaky hose. This is in the
> rear of the main tranny
> body on the passenger side right near that corner of
> the oil pan (tranny oil
> pan) and there should be a vac line going to it.
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:32:29 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 -Elementary Truckese

Stock everything as in no modifications, as opposed to factory original
which I guess could be taken to mean no replacement parts or maybe just no
non FoMoCo parts.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Kiernan, Denny wenet.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 12:17 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 -Elementary Truckese


> The 72 F-100 I've got is all original except for a few items -- new
> heater core, new clutch, etc., -- that were repleced with items just
> like the parts that wore out. So then, what's the expression you all use
> to describe the truck -- "stock everything"?



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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 15:39:17 -0600
From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 -Elementary Truckese

> So then, what's the expression you all use
> to describe the truck -- "stock everything"?
>
Pretty much Bone stock is the phrase I use ... though conveying that to
people can be tough sometimes ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 16:02:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown sonic.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dropping back to idle

Dennywrites:
> The truck is running fine in just about every respect, but when I stop
> at a red light, (taking my foot off the gas and depressing the clutch
> pedal), the engine speed usually doesnt drop back to a slow idle unless
> I punch the gas pedal quickly once, which never fails to do the trick.
>
> Now, the mechanic, without even looking inside the hood, says he needs
> special equipment which he doesnt have, to fix the problem. I think he
> probably needs nothing more than some lubricant and maybe a screw driver
> or wrench. Who is right?

As Gary and wish pointed out, sticky choke and/or fast idle linkage.
Clean them with Berryman Chemtool and a small acid brush, DON'T LUBE!
Oil will just make everything sticky.

What your mechanic may be suggesting is a worn out throttle shaft bore,
which occurs in old trucks regularly, especially if someone put a
large "garage door" spring on as a throttle return. The fix here is
a replacement carb, or have the throttle shaft re-bushed at a local
carb/electric shop.
- --
Pat Brown sonic.net>
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 20:08:39 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Teflon tape...

In a message dated 12/21/99 2:55:01 PM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:

> What the hey, it's cheap and
> you can always put new on each time :-) Meanwhile your bleeders will
> absolutely not ever break off again :-)
>

It may well also hold up to gasoline anyway. Brother gave me some of this
yellow stuff which I used for the gas line on my truck. Perhaps a little
"submersion testing" is in order.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 17:07:34 -0800
From: "S.Harkema" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 62 4x4

>I am looking
>at a 1962 Ford 4X4 here locally. The truck has 41,800 actual miles on
I used to have a 62 F-100 4x4. Still miss it.

>I have owned several 1978-79 F150 4X4's but never a 62. My knowledge is >nill on these older trucks.

Sold the 62 to get my current 76 F-250 4x4.You would be surprised at how
similar they are under the skin.

>The truck is in need of some parts, but I do not have a clue as to the
>availability on parts for these older trucks.

No worse than ant other 39 year old truck

>I am also curious at to the
>demand for these older trucks?

In this group,unbelievably high!!

>The cab is very rust free, and the box is not to bad itself.

Sounds good

>The tailgate is missing, and window cranks need replaced ect...

Tailgate was the same from 57 to 63 so should not be impossible to find.
There may be a aftermarket sourse for cranks.
I would recommend buying it!!
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 22:04:31 -0500
From: Dan Herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Salvage Yards in Winter

> RE: From: "Michael White" csolutions.net>
>
I'm working on
>a theory that parts should be easier to find in the salvage yards during the
>winter because the "casual shopper" will not be present due to weather
>conditions. Is this a valid theory?
_____________

Michael, I believe your theory probably does have some merit to it. As long
as the salvage yard your shopping continues to bring in the good stock
during the off months. Up here in Indiana were the Winters tend to get cold
sometimes I often find myself the only "idiot" out on the lot doing his
shopping. I do consider myself a "regular shopper". In fact, Winter is my
Favorite time to do my shopping.

With the number of replies you had to this topic I'm surprised no one else
had my same feelings.... For one, when it's below 32 degrees your the only
one out there - No long lines and no huge crowds! 2nd: (And my favorite)
When it's this cold you don't have to worry about being blasted with a face
full of WASP'S - HORNETS or BEE'S while digging your hands into a dash
assembly or hanging over the front end in an engine compartment. Them
babies get a little upset when you bump into one of their nest while
removing your parts. Not to mention Snakes or Fire Ants tend to stay away
also. 3rd: Them mud holes another member mentioned laying in is all froze
over. This means the jacks don't sink in either. AND 4th: You can leave
the sweet bands and extra towels at home. Your not out in the melting sun
burning up and wiping the sweet from your eyes constantly. Not to mention
the insides of the cab don't tend to stink as bad when it's cold outside.
I can't count the times I would start on an hour long removal project and
within about ten minutes I would shed the winter coat and be working in
nothing but a flannel shirt, and the temperature in the teens with snow
flurries falling around you.

If there is a foot of snow on the ground than this can create other
problems! Fortunately our winters up here has not been that bad recently.

Merry Christmas All!!!

Dan Herrmann

1964 F100 Custom Cab
1966 F100 Custom Cab
1969 F100 Ranger
1975 F150 Explorer
1979 F150 Ranger XLT
1992 F150 Custom (Daily Driver)
1992 Tempo GL (Wife's Car)


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 22:04:10 -0800
From: "Bob" mpinet.net>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: The cold & all

Some one said.....

>>a theory that parts should be easier to find in the salvage yards during
the
>>winter because the "casual shopper" will not be present due to weather
>>conditions. Is this a valid theory?
>
>We Houstonians *really* hate going out when its below 40. 8-)

To which some eloquently replied

>Those of us from farther north really hate going when its 40 below. :)


To which someone else replied...

>Hell, I don't go anywhere when it's below 40 :)
>George, Ft Lauderdale


to which another reply was written

> It also depends on where you are . Its 80 ' in Dec. here in
>Florida......


To which I must add..." Well put brother Floridians!!" Let them have the
cold frozen North...
I will even put up with the tourists & mice over the cold!!

Bob

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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 19:52:51 -0600
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Sag

Mike,
Are all your cab mounts, bushings, etc. OK? If all the sheetmetal is OK
then your frame might be bent. Do you see any buckles or distortions in
the frame rails, somewhere in the center? If you sight down the bottoms
of the frame rails you might be able to see where it's bent. If so, a
frame straightener can fix you right up. If you're interested in doing
it yourself holler and we'll get into it a little deeper.
Brett
Super75cab
>Also my truck seems to sag in the middle. I hear this is typical of the
>years 61 to 66. If so how can I also fix.
>Thanks in advance.
>Mike

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 21:03:19 -0600
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Winter Junkyarding

"Easier?!!!"
In the snowy 70's as a bodyman I once needed an entire front clip. The
yardman said "along the fence, green car about 15th in". So I walked on
top of the snow to the corner, and worked my way along locating cars by
driving the shovel down into the snow listening for the metallic hollow
clunk of the roof. Locate green paint. After madly shoveling towards
China, uncover entire clip just to see what sort of shape it's in. Good
enough, getting dark, better hurry. Inside hood latch, so tunnel towards
front door. Break door open. Break hood latch. Remove all topside
bolts. Tunnel under car, stand on head, remove bottomside bolts. Press
entire clip 6 feet straight up into the air on top of the snow. Drag
entire clip over the snowbanks back to shop truck. Jump start dead shop
truck.
And people ask why I moved from Minnesota to Texas....
Brett
Super75cab
> I'm working on a theory that parts should be easier to find in the
salvage yards during the
>winter because the "casual shopper" will not be present due to weather
conditions. Is this a valid theory?
>Danger
>danger csolutions.net


___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 22:11:08 EST
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: The cold & all

In a message dated 12/21/99 7:07:33 PM Pacific Standard Time,
saintnsinner mpinet.net writes:

<< Some one said.....

>>a theory that parts should be easier to find in the salvage yards during
the
>>winter because the "casual shopper" will not be present due to weather
>>conditions. Is this a valid theory?
>
>We Houstonians *really* hate going out when its below 40. 8-)

To which some eloquently replied

>Those of us from farther north really hate going when its 40 below. :)


To which someone else replied...

>Hell, I don't go anywhere when it's below 40 :)
>George, Ft Lauderdale


to which another reply was written

> It also depends on where you are . Its 80 ' in Dec. here in
>Florida......


To which I must add..." Well put brother Floridians!!" Let them have the
cold frozen North...
I will even put up with the tourists & mice over the cold!!

Bob >>
You floridians or what ever they call ya :) never have fun until you have to
plug in your car, and just when you think the battery isnt gonna crank
anymore the engine fires, now thats fun!!!!!!
Travis
from
the great white north or iowa as some say
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 22:32:04 -0500
From: "Brad Smith" mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)

- ----- Original Message -----
From: rich may yahoo.com>
To: <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 2:49 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C-6 dilemma (new)


> I was pulling out of the gas station yesterday, put it
> in gear and started to drive off. Guess what....it was
> stuck in first. I pulled over, put it in park and back
> into drive. The same thing happened. I had to creep
> home. I came home today, and it was fine when I left
> work, but when I turned onto my road.....first gear
> again. It seems to happen once there is heat that has
> been built up. It doesn't want to upshift. I can go to
> 4500rpm and still nothing. I was in first and I
> crested this hill, and it kicked it into second. So
> today I got to drive home in second. There also seems
> to be a new vibration (still haven't found the first
> vibration). What could this be?
>
> Rich
Sounds like you have a band problem to me... I would change the fluid and
try adjusting the bands to see if that helps... As far as the vibration,
sounds like possibly a torque converter problem... Has the trucking been
"lugging" in high gear, like it just didn't have much power? If so, you've
got some broken springs in the converter... Remans are ~$100... Sounds like
we got lots O' tranny rebuilds going on here lately (I just finished up an
A4LD today out of a an 93 ranger).... Good luck!

Brad


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------------------------------

End of 61-79-list-digest V3 #469
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