fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, February 17 1998 Volume 02 : Number 097



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Phoenix Systems Bleeder ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
dies at idle [Jesus Cardoso ]
Re: Phoenix Systems Bleeder [Brian ]
Re: dies at idle [Brian ]
RE: Phone # [Sleddog ]
Speedometer Problem [tdnovell devalcol.edu (Timothy D Novello)]
Re: dies at idle [Ken Payne ]
Attention everyone in Northern states (idle) [ECampb5214 aol.com]
Re: 351Mod ["Dave Resch"]
Re: Attention everyone in Northern states (idle) [Ken Payne
Re: Phoenix Systems Bleeder ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Header torque specs? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 460 timing and other stuff ["John F. Bauer III"
Hey Texans! [BDIJXS aol.com]
Compression ratios? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
[none] ["Hogan, Tom" ]
door rubber ["Art Lutz" ]
Cleveland heads and a 400?? ["MICHAEL THOMAS" ]
Re: 460 timing and other stuff []
looking for salvage yards in PA [shoman p3.net]
Re: door rubber ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: Cleveland heads and a 400?? ["Bill Beyer" ]
f100 fishy steering [Trs2000 aol.com]
Re: f100 fishy steering [marko ]
RE: Cleveland heads and a 400?? [Sleddog ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 07:34:46 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Phoenix Systems Bleeder

Well, I guess I need to watch the video again :-( I tried the
injector last night and it did what I expected and worked as expected
but it didn't get the air out. The video that came with it is a work
in itself and covers every possible situation with good schematics,
glass cut away videos of the location of bubbles etc. and is very
informative and eye opening. Apparently it's not a no brainer or I
would have got it right the first time :-(

They recommend depressing the brake pedal about an inch but I
discovered it's more like 7/8 and very specific to be able to get the
fluid up through the master cylinder. The other problem is the
bleeders themselves whick let more fluid out around the threads than
went up through the lines on occasion.

Even with the cap on the resivoir it sprayed fluid all over the
garage so I suspect I was a little too ambitious about squeezing the
handle............

Then they recommend after feeding you "burp" the bleeders to get the
bubble out near the bleeder and I found there was a fair amount of
air there after pushing solid fluid in and taking off the hose even
when I tightened the bleeder while under pressure so it's a whole new
science to me.

I'll watch the video again and try it again and when I finally do get
it right I'll let y'all know and give you a happiness (or sadness)
report :-) I see in the instructions they have 4 different levels of
sophistication including two made mostly of metal and each level is
more expensive of course. The one I have is the V-10 and is very
simple and made of plastic so it will have to be cared for if I want
it to last. The V-20 is somewhat better quality with more
sophisticated check valves etc. so might actually be a better bang
for the buck depending on price. The case is nice and has real
hinges and real latches so should last a life time with care but the
injuctor internals are very simple and may not hold up. Only time
will tell...........Maybe simple is better in this case??


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 07:52:35 -0600 (CST)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: dies at idle

Howdy!

Good morning everyone. I have another question for the list. I
have been having a little trouble with my truck (63 F100 w/ 292) in cooler
weather. It seems to die at idle in the mornings when I am driving to
campus. For example today it is about 40 degress (F) outside, the truck
started fine and I warmed it up to about 100 degress and took off. About
a mile down the road I stopped at a red light and it died, it started
right back up, but at idle it sounded like it is at really low RPMs. It
died a couple of more time down the road. By the time I got to school
it was at an operating temperature of 160 degrees. When I parked it, the
truck at still a low RPMs at idle but slowly it started to recover power
and get back to it normal RPMs at idle. The rest of the day it should run
fine without any problems, for some reason it only dies in cool weather in
the mornings.
I have replaced the points and plugs wires, I even put dry gas in
the gas tank to get rid of any possible water. (the fuel pump is also new)
Any suggestions?


Thanks.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy
Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab)
Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University
College Station, TX 77843-3128
w: 409-845-4623, h: 409-775-0737, fax: 845-6259
Personal Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214
e-mail: cardoso ee.tamu.edu, url: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 08:01:04 -0500
From: Brian
Subject: Re: Phoenix Systems Bleeder

Gary, how does this thing attach to the brake system ?

I have a EIS power brake bleeder. I've had it for about 10 years, paid
about $250.00 bucks new. It connects to the master cylinder, then you
just go from bleeder screw to bleeder screw opening them and letting the
fluid run till there's no more bubbles coming out. Works great. Its alot
more costly these days I'm sure, but was well worth the investment
if you do alot of brake work.
Brian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 08:04:27 -0500
From: Brian
Subject: Re: dies at idle

I had the same trouble with my son's '78. We found that it was running
to lean on the idle side, adjusted the mixture and seems to be fine now.
Brian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 22:06:17 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Phone #

i don't think so :)

thanks for all of the responces. i do not know why i thought it was NY.

thanks again.

sleddog

- ----------
From: am14 chrysler.com[SMTP:am14 chrysler.com]
Sent: Monday, February 16, 1998 7:07 PM
To: Fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Phone #

Boy, Sleddog!!!!! You got a bunch of answers on that ph# request. Do
all of them agree it is in N Jersey and not NY???????? New Jersey --
NY Not much difference. Right??

Azie





+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: 14 Feb 98 02:54:48 -0500
From: tdnovell devalcol.edu (Timothy D Novello)
Subject: Speedometer Problem

I am the proud owner of a 1963 F-250 pickup truck and this weekend the
speedometer died on the way home from school. (I go to school in PA and live
in NJ) I took the speedometer cable and housing off and removed the cable.
It was not frayed or broken so I greased it and put it back in. Now of course
I tested it first by putting the back up on blocks and hooking the cable back
up. The speedometer worked when it was not in the dashboard but once
reassembled it does not work. I don't know if there is a problem inside the
tranny or what. If anyone has any possible solutions write back here or to me
at: tdnovell devalcol.edu
Thanks!

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 11:15:12 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: dies at idle

I'm assuming you have a manual choke. Find where the choke
cable hooks up to the carb (just get someone to put it a
few times while you watch. It should be on the right hand
side. You'll notice that the arm it's hooked up to rubs
against an adjusting screw which, when pushed moves the
throttle just slightly. This is the fast idle. When the
engine is cold and the choke is pulled you need a faster
idle setting.

If its happening after you no longer need the choke to
start and run, then try adjusting the idle mixture
screws 1/4 turn. These screws are at the bottom front
of the carb.


At 07:52 AM 2/17/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Howdy!
>
>Good morning everyone. I have another question for the list. I
>have been having a little trouble with my truck (63 F100 w/ 292) in cooler
>weather. It seems to die at idle in the mornings when I am driving to
>campus. For example today it is about 40 degress (F) outside, the truck
>started fine and I warmed it up to about 100 degress and took off. About
>a mile down the road I stopped at a red light and it died, it started
>right back up, but at idle it sounded like it is at really low RPMs. It
>died a couple of more time down the road. By the time I got to school
>it was at an operating temperature of 160 degrees. When I parked it, the
>truck at still a low RPMs at idle but slowly it started to recover power
>and get back to it normal RPMs at idle. The rest of the day it should run
>fine without any problems, for some reason it only dies in cool weather in
>the mornings.
>I have replaced the points and plugs wires, I even put dry gas in
>the gas tank to get rid of any possible water. (the fuel pump is also new)
>Any suggestions?
>

I'm assuming you have a manual choke. Find where the choke
cable hooks up to the carb (just get someone to put it a
few times while you watch. It should be on the right hand
side. You'll notice that the arm it's hooked up to rubs
against an adjusting screw which, when pushed moves the
throttle just slightly. This is the fast idle. When the
engine is cold and the choke is pulled you need a faster
idle setting. You should run the with the choke pulled
fully for about 30-60 seconds, then move it in a little
bit at a time until the engine reaches operating temp.

If its happening after you no longer need the choke to
start and run, then try adjusting the idle mixture
screws 1/4 turn. These screws are at the bottom front
of the carb and point forwards.

- -Ken Payne

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 11:38:46 EST
From: ECampb5214 aol.com
Subject: Attention everyone in Northern states (idle)

Hi all

What is a good idle for my 76 250 w/360 in winter?
Thanks
Ethan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 09:58:29 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: 351Mod

>From: cdriddervold juno.com
>Subject: 351Mod
>
>I own a '78 F-250, w/ a 351M, a friend of mine
>offered me a '71 351C engine for $100. It has an Edelbrock
>Performer on it and the heads are good. The cam gear and
>
>My question is, would these heads work on my motor, if so I
>
>Also would the intake work, all gaskets for the 351C/M seem to
>be the same?
Yo Charlie:

The 351C intake manifold will not work as a drop-in because the 351M has a
taller deck height (by almost 1.1 inches). You can buy adapters from
Moroso or Weiand to get the 351C intake manifold to work on the 351M.

Emissions legality may be a consideration, depending on your local laws.
If you use a 351C intake manifold, it will not be set up for the EGR and
Thermactor ports, which you may need for emissions legality. Also, some
351C heads were not equipped w/ EGR and Thermactor ports.

The 351C heads will work on your motor if they are the 2V heads. The 4V
heads have larger ports and valves and they are not suitable for a low-rpm
truck engine.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 12:55:41 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Attention everyone in Northern states (idle)

At 11:38 AM 2/17/98 EST, you wrote:
>Hi all
>
> What is a good idle for my 76 250 w/360 in winter?
>Thanks
>Ethan

Regardless of temp, 500-600 rpm. Fast idle should be
700-800 rpm.

Ken Payne

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 12:58:54 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Phoenix Systems Bleeder

> Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 08:01:04 -0500
> From: Brian
> Subject: Re: Phoenix Systems Bleeder

> Gary, how does this thing attach to the brake system ?

Can you say "right turn clyde"? Any which way you can! There is an
attachment (costs extra) that allows pressure bleeding from the top
if you have the new plastic, single filler neck type. You can press
it into the holes in the older types and do the same thing or you can
push it up from underneath which is what I tried last night. The
video tape is really neat.

The only thing I'm disappointed about is that they didn't send lour
loc plugs so I could store it with the fluid in the lines but maybe
that's not recommended anyway??

I'm sure I did everything wrong last night so I'm going to study the
directions this time :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 13:44:57 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Header torque specs?

> From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
> Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 15:52:07 +0000
> Subject: Header torque specs?

> I'm going to put headers on my '68 F100 with a 390 2v.
>
> Is there a torque spec. for the bolt that tightens the header to the
> head?
>
> The installation instructions says to tighten evenly and to
> retighten after
> 3 to 5 days of operation.

Manifold torque is based on the needs of the manifold more than the
bolts. They need to float a bit or they will break. Headers are
stamped steel and can't break so more torque is ok and actually
needed most of the time. If they are 3/8 bolts you could go as high
as about 35 - 40# but take it up past 30 just 5# at a time and if any
of the bolts seem to be stretching or fell mushy back off. 5/16
bolts are only good for about 25#. They need to be tight but don't
break them :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 15:18:49 -0500
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: Re: 460 timing and other stuff

Hopefully not belaboring the point as to roll the eyes of list readers, but
in an effort to preserve a performance beefed up engine yet still comply
with newer smog reduction efforts, is it too oversimplified to say that
with point #2 (below), the introduction of a universal catalytic converter
into a vehicle that originally did not use one would balance the increased
NOx output as to comply with legal smog output levels?

John

At 12:57 PM 2/16/98 -0800, you wrote:
>John F. Bauer III wrote:
>

snip!

>In laymans terms, here goes (somewhat oversimplified)
>
>Higher compression ratios increases combustion temperatures which causes an
>increase in NOx formation
>Higher compression ratios tend to increase the amount of time it takes the
>fuel/air mix to burn which causes two emissions related problems:
> 1. More spark advance is necessary to ensure complete combustion or we
will
>see an increase in hydrocarbon emissions.
> 2. However...more spark advance also tends to increase combustion
>temperatures which again leads to an increase in NOx.
> 3. Higher compression ratios required higher octane gasoline in order to
>prevent pre-ignition (spark knock). When Tetra-ethyl
> lead became a bozo no-no in our gasoline there apparently was no fuel
>industry substitutes and so they took the easy way
> out, retarded timing and decreased compression ratio. (Which caused a
>significant loss of low end torque, which caused
> an increase in fuel consumption, which cause an increase in total
smog
>production but since all they were keeping track of
> was percentages, it looked good on paper (sorry, had to slip a
personal
>opinion in there)).
>
>As an aside to point #1, one of the supposed reasons for the demise of
over 400
>cubic in. V-8's is that with bores over 4 inches it became difficult to
ensure
>complete combustion as the flame front didnt have time to travel completely
>across the cylinder. (Sounds to me like an excuse for poor cyl head
>engineering). According to one magazine source, that was the driving
motivation
>behind the "brand Y" V-10, it let them produce an over 400 cu in motor while
>keeping the cylinder bore a more manageable size.
>
>I am sure some engineer will say that I missed the salient points but the
above
>are generally accepted excuses for the emascuation of our motors.
>
>Rick Brewster
>73 F-100, 460 by Lincoln
>(aint no substitute for cubic inches, or high compression ratios, or cams
with
>BIG SQUARE LOBES, or throttle plates big enough to suck pigeons thru, et al)
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 17:14:19 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: Hey Texans!

Hello Anyone on the List from Dallas/Ft. Worth area,

I'm looking for a recommendation on any good JUNKYARDS in the D/FW area that
would have Bronco parts....in particular, 78-79 years....I'm heading to Dallas
for a project this week, and I might have some time off....

Thanks!

Colorado Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 16:12:47 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Compression ratios?

I've calculated this thing till I'm blue in the face and I can't see
were you guys got 9:1 or 10:1 with a 0.010" deck clearance and 70cc
combustion chamber and 0.033" gasket and 3.984" stroke???

I have to add a 0.280 deck clearance to get 10:1??? What the heck am
I missing. I wasn't going to show my ignorance but this is killing
me! Pi * r^2 * h is still the volume of a cylinder isn't it? If you
divide the cc's by 61.02 you get cuin right?

Here's my numbers with 0.010 deck clearance:

424.2 total BDC volume
410.59 swept volume
13.61 TOTAL compressed volume (8 cylinders)

Now, 410,59/13.61 = 30.168????

51.32 swept for one cylinder and 1.70 compressed still = 30.168 so
what am I doing wrong?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 15:42:29 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: [none]

Mr Roboto, STYX ?1979-80?

==dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us===http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm==
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM | who, who?
=====================================================================


Ford truck are the greatest creations of all things oval and blue!!!!
(RFTC) Actually I do have some real FTC. I had a chance to see the new
Super duty F350 in a magazine last night. Looks a lot like a certain
pentstar pickup product (say that a zillion times really fast!!). I
still like it.

Does anyone know if FoMoCo is planning on producing these two trucks
(F-150 and F-350) of differing body styles at the same time? Is this
the begining of an era when the F-150 has one style to appeal to the
grocery getter crowd and the F-250 thru F-700 have another style for the
hairy chested, haul-a-heavy-load, I-use-a-truck-to-make-a-buck, working
man?
Cool.
Tom H.


Dave====================================================
The sirens are screaming and the fires are howling/ Way down in the
vally tonight/ There's a man in the shadows with a gun in his eye/ And a
blade shining oh so bright.....
==============================================Who? Who?
Or am I just too damn old?


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 16:19:01 -0800
From: "Art Lutz"
Subject: door rubber

I have been looking in the Dennis Carpeter and Obsolete Ford catalogs, they
have door seal kits, but I am not sure if they include the piece I need the
most. On my 78 250 there is a seal that runs along the top of the door
itself, from the first screw the holds the vent window in, around the top,
almost to the door latch. In the catalogs for the 78 it only shows the
seal that goes around the door opening on the cab. Has anybody ordered
these kits, I just need to know if they have both seals for each side, or
just the cab opening seal. I can not find this other seal listed by
itself, and the guy at ford parts counter had no idea what I was talking
about. I hope some of this made sense, I am just trying to save a long
distance call.

Also I missed a digest and may not have gotten all the info, but we
were talking about the 400s and how they had problems with the heads
cracking. I have a 400 in my 250. Was it only ones from a certian plant,
or is this a problem with all 400s? I checked the stamp and it had a CP.
When I get ready to redo my heads should I just go with 351C 2v heads?
What needs to be done to the 351C heads to work well with the 400M? Sorry
about all the questions, but I think I may have a cracked head, or a bad
head gasket. Seems like there are a few of us having problems with the
400. Thanks for any help. Art Lutz

78 F-250 4X4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 18:53:28 -0500
From: "MICHAEL THOMAS"
Subject: Cleveland heads and a 400??

Fellas-

I remember some discussion on putting 351C 4V heads on a 351M/400. I
don't recall if some one said if it works or not. If so, would this
work on a '77 400??? School project is redoing cylinder heads and I
am going to get a set of these Cleveland 4V's and freshen them up.
Could anyone give me suggestions???
Northwestern College in Lima, OH is where I am. It's a great
Auto/Diesel school, and we have an awesome machine shop!


M. Dustin Thomas
mdthomas nc.edu
KB9OGG (If you're a ham.)
Young and dumb.

'77 F150 Ranger, 400 V-8 (I need 4WD!!)
'91 G*C Sonoma (Up for sale, anyone interested??)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 15:25:06 -0800
From:
Subject: Re: 460 timing and other stuff

John F. Bauer III wrote:

> Hopefully not belaboring the point as to roll the eyes of list readers, but
> in an effort to preserve a performance beefed up engine yet still comply
> with newer smog reduction efforts, is it too oversimplified to say that
> with point #2 (below), the introduction of a universal catalytic converter
> into a vehicle that originally did not use one would balance the increased
> NOx output as to comply with legal smog output levels?
>
> John
>
> At 12:57 PM 2/16/98 -0800, you wrote:
> >John F. Bauer III wrote:
> >
> (much deleting of the other points along with my gratuitous rantings about 70's
> and 80's emmission controls)
>
> > 2. However...more spark advance also tends to increase combustion
> >temperatures which again leads to an increase in NOx.

Yes, with qualifiers. remember the original posting was an attempt to simplify the
explanations.

The only real complaint I have (had I should say) with cats is that I am from
California. Cats are a part of the exhaust system which Ca. said cant be altered.
This means that if you have a car with single exhaust, you cant convert to dual
exhaust, even if you add a cat so that there is one on both sides. Also if you
have 1-3/4 inch exhaust, you cant upgrade to 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 because you would then
have to use a cat with larger inlet and outlet sizes, ie a non-original cat which
is forbidden in CA, you MUST use original equipment or an approved substitute. and
yes I am familiar with all the "cat-back" aftermarket exhaust systems, it does
little good to have a dual exhaust system behind your cat when all the gases going
into it have to squeeze through a single 1-3/4 inch pipe.

In my current situation I have a vehicle that didnt come with cats so I am free to
play in that area as I wish. I intend to have 2, three inch cats in my exhaust
system (one for each side) along with low pressure cracking valves to supply the
supplemental O2. All racers are not mindless brutes with no concern for the
environment. My personal goal with my 460 Lincoln powered, 73 F-100 is sub 13 sec
1/4 miles, 20 MPG, and meet current (not '73) emissions standards. It can be done
but not with low-ball "lets meet the Govt. regs with minimum cost per vehicle and
performance be hanged" engineering. The old saw about "speed is money, how fast
can you afford to go" applies here.

Off the soap box, next point

In actuality, one of the best methods of reducing NOx is exhaust gas recirculation
(EGR). At part throttle applications, diluting the air/fuel mixture with O2
depleted air (exhaust gases) reduces the amount of available oxygen. From a
chemical reaction standpoint, the carbon based fuels "want" the oxygen more than
the nitrogen does. In an oxygen depleted atmosphere, the fuel hogs the oxygen
leaving little for the nitrogen to use in the formation of NOx. Part throttle
operation usually implies leaner mixtures which also tend to increase NOx. One of
the early "mistakes" in emissions engineering was the significant leaning of the
air/fuel mixture in an attemt to control hydrocarbon emissions, unfortunatly, the
leaner mixtures caused a huge increase in NOx generation (leaner mixtures burn
hotter increasing NOx (see point 2) and leaner mixtures leave more available O2 in
the exhaust gases which also increases NOx, a double whammy). oooops!

EGR is all well and good at part throttle applications when full engine output is
not required. At full throttle, Air/fuel mixtures are richer (usually) and so NOx
production goes down while hydrocarbons go up. Not a major factor in most cases
because even lead-footed miscreants such as myself have to keep their foots out of
the throttle plates for 99.9% of the time. My biggest complaints against the EGR
technology wasnt the basic premis, it was the poor implementation of the 70's and
80's. When EGR valves fail open, the motor runs like a three legged dog. when an
EGR valve fails closed, NOx emissions skyrocket, neither failure mode is
acceptable.

Rick Brewster
'73 F-100, 460 by Lincoln

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 20:49:29 -0500
From: shoman p3.net
Subject: looking for salvage yards in PA

Anybody who Knows of any GOOD junkyards in PA/NJ
please email me...with the warm weather approaching I'm ready to
do some parts hunting..Let me know
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 18:06:11 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: door rubber

- ----------
> From: Art Lutz
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: door rubber
> Date: Tuesday, February 17, 1998 4:19 PM



> Also I missed a digest and may not have gotten all the info, but we
> were talking about the 400s and how they had problems with the heads
> cracking. I have a 400 in my 250. Was it only ones from a certian
plant,
> or is this a problem with all 400s? I checked the stamp and it had a CP.

> When I get ready to redo my heads should I just go with 351C 2v heads?
> What needs to be done to the 351C heads to work well with the 400M?
Sorry
> about all the questions, but I think I may have a cracked head, or a bad
> head gasket. Seems like there are a few of us having problems with the
> 400. Thanks for any help. Art Lutz

The pre 78 400 blocks cast at the Michigan plant had some problems with
cracking. I believe it was Chris Samuel that was saying that the newer 2V
heads were a thinner wall casting and had more of a tendency to crack under
extreme conditions than the older 2V Cleveland heads.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 18:08:59 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Cleveland heads and a 400??

- ----------
> From: MICHAEL THOMAS
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Cleveland heads and a 400??
> Date: Tuesday, February 17, 1998 3:53 PM

> I remember some discussion on putting 351C 4V heads on a 351M/400. I
> don't recall if some one said if it works or not. If so, would this
> work on a '77 400??? School project is redoing cylinder heads and I
> am going to get a set of these Cleveland 4V's and freshen them up.
> Could anyone give me suggestions???
> Northwestern College in Lima, OH is where I am. It's a great
> Auto/Diesel school, and we have an awesome machine shop!

Cleveland 4Vs perform best at high RPMs at the cost of low end torque. Not
the ideal truck engine to say the least. IMHO you'd be much better off
"freshening up" a set of 2Vs.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 21:11:04 EST
From: Trs2000 aol.com
Subject: f100 fishy steering

I,ve got a 66 f100 pickup with manual steering that is just all over the road.
I've replaced the gearbox with a good one and added a new tierod end so I know
that the front end and gear box are good. The only bad parts on the front end
are the king pins which have some play- one side more than the other. would
that cause the severe side to side wandering of the truck when you hit a
bump.....


Also, does anybody know of a company that will rent a truck with a hitch so i
can tow this dog back to my house (800 miles) without selling my
soul............

Thanks in advance.
trs2000

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 19:32:54 -0800
From: marko
Subject: Re: f100 fishy steering

At 09:11 PM 2/17/98 EST, you wrote:
>I,ve got a 66 f100 pickup with manual steering that is just all over the road.
>I've replaced the gearbox with a good one and added a new tierod end so I know

Hey there,

What's causing your problems is BIAS PLY TIRES!!!!


With today's roads, all rutted as they are, the bias tires climb the center
crown in your lane and make you drive like you were a Canadian snowboarding
gold medalist.

Slap on four radial tires and your problem will miraculously be cured.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 21:39:35 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Cleveland heads and a 400??

the people i have talked to (as i have never done it myself, yet...) that
have done it were very satisfied with the results and felt that they got a
BIG gain in power from midrange on up, with only a small loss at the bottom
of mostly throttle response and only a little torque.

it can make a very satisfying engine, but you need to ask someone who has
done it successfully how they did it, as far as cams, compression, etc.

also, 400 cubes use the 4v heads very effectively compared to the 351. 50
cubes make a big difference. even between the 429 and 460 engines the 460
uses the CJ heads much more effectively than the 429. the ports on the 4v
cleveland heads are very close to the ports on the 385 series standard
head. and a 429 with standard heads makes loads of torque at the bottom.

and furthur, if a stroker motor is built, the 4v heads will become even
more effective. bigger cams and better manifolds, headers, etc. can really
take advantage of the heads when properly done as there are at least 2 of
these engines running at the local truck pulls. these engines can really
show the bowties what a real truck can do.

who said a truck needs torque down low? some of the best street racers i
have seen are trucks! some people prefer a hot running engine to a low
speed torque motor for even a daily driver.

i know i do!!

sleddog

- ----------
From: Bill Beyer[SMTP:bbeyer pacifier.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 1998 9:08 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: Cleveland heads and a 400??


....

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