fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, February 10 1998 Volume 02 : Number 086



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

wisdom and good moods [jniolon uss.com]
352 [am14 chrysler.com]
71 Resto [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: '78 F250- Good deal? [Brian ]
Good Site [Brian ]
RE: good moods in a ford truck. [Sleddog ]
Re: Flywheel Problem STILL!!! ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 71 Resto update ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: '78 F250- Good deal? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Rear end ratio change [LeeCraner aol.com]
Re: Rear end ratio change [james oxley ]
Re: Ranchero a car? [ECampb5214 aol.com]
Re: Ranchero a car? ["Admiral J.R.E. Mc Kenzie"
71 Resto update 2nd try [Stu Varner ]
Re: Ranchero a car? [Dennis Pearson ]
Re: Wrecker [ECampb5214 aol.com]
Books and good reading [Stu Varner ]
Re: Rear end ratio change ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Rear end ratio change & distributor [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Rear end ratio change & distributor ["Gary, 78 BBB"
RE: Heater core trouble. :( ["Hogan, Tom" ]
Re: Rear end ratio change & distributor ["Michael Connor"
Re: Rear end ratio change & distributor [shoman p3.net]
Re: GOOD CAM ["Hogan, Tom" ]
RE: Flywheel Problem STILL!!! ["Hogan, Tom" ]
E 350 [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Nominations [SuperMagot aol.com]
RE: '67 headliner for a '66 [shane ]

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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 06:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon uss.com
Subject: wisdom and good moods

sleddog,

based on the ratio of 390's to all other engine sizes...I agree that
your extrapolation of women in a good mood per day is correct... "one"

Ford content: mine can also be in a bad mood in a Ford..although "I"
do enjoy it more.

john

to quote a sign on a wall somewhere: "A man does not have to be a
bigamist to have one wife too many"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 08:05:10 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 352

Mike writes: >>Saw 352 stamped on the block. About the middle of the
timing chain cover on the right side. The block was bare - only cam
and crank/pistons still in it. No heads. intake, or front cover.

Mike you will also find this cast in number on most 390's and some of
the other FE's, so it isn't an identifier for the 352. It is an
identifier for the FE series, however.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 08:30:11 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 71 Resto

Stu Varner writes: >>Anyone have experience with the Chasis black paint
that Eastwood Company puts out to go on the frame?? It is supposed
to be the correct color.......BUT, is it durable enough?

Congratulations Stu!!!

Yes the Eastwood is good. It will eventually chip and turn loose in
abusive situations, but it is good stuff. I've used it. I would
definately take the frame to a blasting yard and have it sandblasted.
Remove any caked on grease from the axles by chipping - hot water wash
or whatever, but remove it before you go to the blasters. Sand
blasting doesn't remove grease for some reason.

Good luck.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 07:58:44 -0500
From: Brian
Subject: Re: '78 F250- Good deal?

Rob, I don't know where your located but for here in Minnesota, thats
abit high. I purchased a 1978 F150 4x4 3006cyl 4 speed with 15x10
aluminum wheels and 35" tires for $1700.00 Body is good, some rust, but
engine runs great.I'd pick up a auto trader and check the going price on
models that are similiar. That's how I put a price on my '96 to sell it.

Brian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 08:17:57 -0500
From: Brian
Subject: Good Site

I don't know if this ones been posted before, but my wife found it for
me and was a great sight.http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dca.net/~richardj/fd/ff.htm
Lots of ford links and info

Brian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 09:35:39 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: good moods in a ford truck.

me thinks it IS my ford that causes mine her bad moods sometimes! she
won't admit it, but i know my compulsive and obsesive behavior towards my
truck (and other vehivles) gets to her. so, for every hour with my truck,
she gets two!! :)



- ----------
From: jniolon uss.com[SMTP:jniolon uss.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 1998 1:23 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: wisdom and good moods


based on the ratio of 390's to all other engine sizes...I agree that
your extrapolation of women in a good mood per day is correct... "one"

Ford content: mine can also be in a bad mood in a Ford..although "I"
do enjoy it more.

john

to quote a sign on a wall somewhere: "A man does not have to be a
bigamist to have one wife too many"






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 09:43:45 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Flywheel Problem STILL!!!

> From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
> Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 18:47:28 -0500
> Subject: Flywheel Problem STILL!!!

> to yards all over the US to find me a flywheel for a 69 Ford truck
> 302 with an 11" clutch? If anyone knows something else I need to be
> looking for or if the one from the 351M will somehow work please
> help this is very frustrating to me to keep paying for
> non-refundable special order parts only to find out that it's the
> wrong one Thank you all.

A 302 is a 302 is a 302 is a 302, right? Have you checked with PAW,
Summit, Jeggs for this? An 11" clutch on a 302 was undoubtedly a
truck or mustang racing version and should be widely available. The
prices I've seen for brand new ones is very reasonable, less than
$200 for iron, basically stock types. Seems like I priced a 460
flywheel from NAPA for $180 or was that $80, I think it was $80 come
to think of it..........

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:14:54 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 71 Resto update

> Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 21:00:06 -0600
> From: Tyler Wilkins
> Subject: Re: 71 Resto update

> >I haven't checked on the avg. cost of a blast job.......any ideas
> >on what would be a >reasonable price?
>
> I had my '73 blasted last winter, it ran me $175. I had done all
> the grease and oil removal, which was required by the shop owner. I
> must admit too they did a great job, my frame was pretty ugly.

If you have a compressor available, use a needle scaler first to
remove the bulk of the rust and caked on debris and I bet you can get
it blased for less yet..................Cost me $52 with overnight
shipping and extra set of needles for my chisel hammer dodad. You
just screw it on the end in place of the spring and let 'er fly :-)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:34:08 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: '78 F250- Good deal?

> From: wayside cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)
> Subject: '78 F250- Good deal?
> Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 23:26:11 GMT

> You have been helpful in the past, and I need some opinions/advice
> again. I've finally found an F250 in pretty good shape. It's got a
> 400 ci engine, pt transfer case, auto trans; only 78,000 original
> miles (He says). Body is good, the only rust is at the bottom rear
> of the left front fender, and there are a few small dings and dents
> here and there (It is 20 years old, after all). New interior, new

Any 4wd that runs is priced near $1500 that I've seen even with body
falling apart. Beyond that it becomes a matter of what you are
willing to do yourself and what you're are willing to pay fo have
already done. If the truck runs well and you have carefully checked
the body with a magnet and some thumping and are satisfied that it's
solid and have been underneath and carefully checked the floors for
repair panels etc. then $3000 is not too bad a price IMHO. I paid
that for my 78 bronco because it had a pretty good body on it and
every thing worked. You can expect to have to go through all the
mechanicals and fix ball joints, ujoints, tie rods etc. even with
78,000 actual miles simply due to age so keep that in mind and the
body may appear to be good but you can bet some holes are going to
appear through any non-original paint job to break your heart unless
you really check it out well :-)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 11:06:04 EST
From: LeeCraner aol.com
Subject: Re: Rear end ratio change

Though I feel very well versed in most phases of auto mechanics, I will be the
first to admit that I've never touched the differential of any of my vehicles.
However, with the 8 to 10 mpg I'm getting on my '73 F250 I am temped to change
out the 3.73 rear end for something more economical. The truck has stock 390
with the Carter 4bbl and a limited slip differential. The truck is used only
for commuting, light hauling. I do not plan to tow anything with it nor climb
any major mountains, so neither torque nor acceleration is really a factor for
me. I'm thinking about 3.00 or better gearing. Your thoughts, guys? Also,
how difficult is it to change the rear end gearing? Any special tools
required. Does it make sense to search the junk yards for the parts or just
order them new?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Lee

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 11:49:10 -0800
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: Rear end ratio change

LeeCraner aol.com wrote:
>
> Though I feel very well versed in most phases of auto mechanics, I will be the
> first to admit that I've never touched the differential of any of my vehicles.

And after you do, you will be sorry (unless it's a 9").

> how difficult is it to change the rear end gearing?

Pretty hard. Dana rears are a pain. The diff shims are located under
the diff bearings. These bearings are very tough to press off without
distroying them (can't get at back side with arbor plates). Due to
this, you have to get the correct backlash the first time (and a set of
new diff bearings). You could buy another set of diff bearings, and hone
them out slightly, to enable install/removal several times until you get
correct backlash. Then press on good set of bearings (so you would have
to buy 2 new sets of diff bearings).

Also need to figure shim for pinion depth. Doing this also requires
press and trial and error (checking gear pattern each time). You need
special depth guage tools to get it right the first time. 1 pinion
bearing will have to be pressed off and back on each time you check this.
Also need to torque pinion nut to crush collar at some ungodly torque on
a dana 60 (if I remember right).

>Any special tools required.

Minimum of decent press, dial indicator, and gear pattern grease. Also
might need something to measure shims if they are not marked.

> Does it make sense to search the junk yards for the parts or just
> order them new?

If you get the gears you are looking for and bearings look OK, you may
get lucky just installing it into a different housing, but probably not.
I would replace all bearings/races. Gears should be OK if they look OK,
but there is always a chance that used gears (hell, even new gears) will
whine at a certain speed, when reset up in a new axle housing.

I got my last gear setup done for 125$, worth at least 10 times that
to me. I have setup Ford, 8.8, 7.5, and 9", Dana 28 and 44. 9" is the
easiest, followed by Ford corp rears, ending with dana's being the
hardest.

OX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 11:53:10 EST
From: ECampb5214 aol.com
Subject: Re: Ranchero a car?

Argue it tell your ford blue. The elcamino was a car. wasnt it? but that was
insureed as a car.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 09:08:20 -0800
From: "Admiral J.R.E. Mc Kenzie"
Subject: Re: Ranchero a car?

Queston " Was El Camono ever or car, or better yet ANY GM Product"?


Shall we Agree, or perhaps better yet Agree to Dis Agree? Tha apple
verses orange syndrome, or in this case car or truck.

Mc Kenzie ( Ret .)






At 11:53 AM 2/10/98 EST, you wrote:
>Argue it tell your ford blue. The elcamino was a car. wasnt it? but that was
>insureed as a car.
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 11:06:14 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: 71 Resto update 2nd try

I don't think this went thru to the list the first time yesterday so I'll
send it again. Sorry if it is lengthy but I do feel the need to say it all.

STU

>Please indulge me as I send out some thank yous and ask some questions.
When I purchased my semi-one-owner low mileage, rust free, original paint,
unmolested, pampered by an older gentleman, 71 4x4 f-100 from Arizona by
way of Mississippi two years ago, I wanted to restore it to perfection.
But, with only limited mechanical abitlies I began to feel the resto may
never take place by me! Money$$$$$$, being important and essential for
buying food and surviving on this planet, I could never have afforded to
hire it done. Since I do have a thirst for reading and study( the list and
reading auto related books and of course the basic mechanical skills too) I
have found that because of this LIST and the quality of info that gets
provided,
>*******************
>Minus the PCV valve debate in March and April last year which almost made
me jump into some sort of acid bath while attempting to drown myself.....
>*******************
>I have dismantled my truck for the resto! It's now or never baby!! WHAT
AN UNDERTAKING!! While
> my confidence level is higher, THANKS TO THE LIST, along with my trusted
neighbor (John) to rely on who is very OVER qualified in his mechanical
abilties, I (we) have undertaken what will probably be a 1-2 year
semi-frame off resto. The cab will only be lifted off the frame long
enough to clean and paint the frame in that section, then refitted to the frame.
>
>This past weekend the front clip etc. was removed piece by piece and all
parts have been packed up, cataloged, documented, and are waiting to be
cleaned and repainted for reassembly in my 24X32 shop. The motor was
removed VERY easily and will not be sent off to be machined and rebuilt from
a 360 2V into a 390 4V until a month before reassembly.
>
>The NP 435 trans was not as cooperative. GGGGRRRR!!!! I wanted to leave
the transfer case and trans hooked together as it is only in need of a new
front seal and cleaned & painted, it would be sitting for at least a year.
I sez to myself, " the less to remove and tear apart the better. right?? "
I liked to never have gotten that sucker out of there! I took the top
cover off the trans to remove the shifter assembly with forks attached
because the pins on the shifter base were not cooperating and I was on a
limited time frame yesterday. It had to come out! Covered the open trans
top up with one of momma's clean bath towels (I am a dead man!!) and used
the cherry picker to snatch the whole assembly out. Reassembled the trans
and the rest is history. BTW - I am amazed at the shape the internal gears
of the transmission are in. It looks so clean! The throwout bearing was
shot which explains the chatter in the clutch!! You guys said the NP 435
was heavy, You are correct!! Especially with the transfer case hooked to
it! So, here are some questions after several cuts and bruises........
>
>Question #1
>Is there an easier way to install the trans and transfer case when I
reassemble the engine / driveline than the way I pulled it out??
>
>Question #2
>Anyone know where I can get new shifter boots for the 2-4 wheel drive
shifter and the regular gear shift???? Mine are torn and I really hate to
reinstall them looking like that.
>
>Question #3
>Anyone have any advice on the trans and what should be done to it since it
will not be rebuilt and will be sitting for at least 1 year?? Anything
besides the front seal that needs replaced??
>
>
>I have found this to be simple and straight forward so far. (Remember, I
am the village idiot!) Nothing seems too complicated and through the use of
notes, photographs and video tapes, I will have an accurate record of where
it all goes together when finished. Interestingly, I have found what appear
to be factory assembly line markings on the frame, under the hood, on the
valve cover, on the rear end. All documented for the sake of further
enthusiast who may be that particular. If anyone does have advice and a
recomendations, please feel free to pass it along. I am one who will take
all the help he can get from the qualified crew we have
>on borad.
>
>
>MORE QUESTIONS and a few thanks!!
>
>AGAIN, LET ME THANK YOU ALL FOR THE KNOWLEDGE AND THE CONFIDENCE YOU HAVE
SHARED!!!
>I will keep you posted with the results and findings. Stripping the
frame by hand will take my lifetime I am afraid! I may spring for a blast
job if I can scrape enough $ together. I haven't checked on the avg. cost
of a blast job.......any ideas on what would be a reasonable price? I live
1/8th mile from a fairly repuatble body shop.....i just haven't checked with
them yet. Anyone have experience with the Chasis black paint that Eastwood
Company puts out to go on the frame?? It is supposed to be the correct
color.......BUT, is it durable enough?
>
>While I am at it......the engine appears to be dark Ford blue
paint.......Is there
>that much difference between Ford blue and Ford dark blue engine paint????
Anyone know for certain which is the correct color for a 71 FE block? A
good supplier?
>
>In closing, sorry this has been so lengthy, Marko Maryniak and Mike Redden.
You both have been very supportive and helpful! Gratzi! Thank you! How
do you say it in Ukranian? Thanks! Many thanks!!
>
>KEN PAYNE - Thanks for starting the list! You have no idea how much it has
helped and will help!
>BTW Ken- I think my wife blames you for starting the mess created in my shop.
>Got any extra space for me to move in when she throws me out????????
>Long live Ford Trucks! I hope to be around at the 100th anniversary
celebration!
>
>Stu
>
>NUKE GM!!
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 09:13:12 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: Ranchero a car?

Thanks for your message at 11:53 AM 2/10/98 EST, ECampb5214 aol.com. Your
message was:
>Argue it tell your ford blue. The elcamino was a car. wasnt it? but that was
>insureed as a car.


There are times when one really sees the advantages of a set of grammar and
spelling rules. I spent quite awhile trying to understand this message.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 11:50:39 EST
From: ECampb5214 aol.com
Subject: Re: Wrecker

id keep that boom put a reg bed in it for a couple hundred and sell the piece
of sh__. Put the boom in a ford with a gunk yard 460 in it and go pull some
people out of the snow. you can make $50 an hour doning that just pull
che__'s out of the snow, pay for its self in half a season. and you can make
a couple hundred off the chevy.

Ford for ever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ethan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 11:28:55 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Books and good reading

Tom Brownell's book "How to restore your Ford pickup" is a decent book and
is really applicable through the 72 model. It givessome good info
especially "how to's"

about 30.00 us dollars

STU
Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 12:58:12 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Rear end ratio change

> From: LeeCraner aol.com
> Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 11:06:04 EST
> Subject: Re: Rear end ratio change

> Though I feel very well versed in most phases of auto mechanics, I
> will be the first to admit that I've never touched the differential
> of any of my vehicles. However, with the 8 to 10 mpg I'm getting on
> my '73 F250 I am temped to change out the 3.73 rear end for
> something more economical. The truck has stock 390 with the Carter

Since this is an F-250 I can't figure tire size, I need the tire size
to determine axle ratio. If we guess it at 30" outside diameter
then 2.88 comes up for 2k at 60 so the 3.00 may be about right but it
depends on the tires.........?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:12:24 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Rear end ratio change & distributor

For Gary (maybe the list is interested too)

First of all, the distributor must be 'pot metal' cause if it were iron and
magnetizable that would goof up the electronic ignition pickup. I figure it
must just be evenly pitted from either a rough casting or the cleaning
procedure. The number 12127 or whatever it is, is stamped on the casting.

Second, I have a 71 f250 4x4 with dana 44f/60r. I went to my parts house to
find a taller (shorter? how does that work anyway) gear for my diffs so my
engine wouldn't roar along at 60 mph. Apparently the f250's came with
4.56's or 4.10's. I asked about a price on a 3.73 but was told it wasn't
available. Is that really true? What did these trucks come with?

I will make it a point to drive once or twice with a tach hooked up to see
just what I am making at 60.

Meantime any help on the gearset availability front would be appreciated.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 13:36:49 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Rear end ratio change & distributor

> Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:12:24 -0800
> From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
> Subject: Re: Rear end ratio change & distributor

> Second, I have a 71 f250 4x4 with dana 44f/60r. I went to my parts
> house to find a taller (shorter? how does that work anyway) gear
> for my diffs so my engine wouldn't roar along at 60 mph. Apparently
> the f250's came with 4.56's or 4.10's. I asked about a price on a
> 3.73 but was told it wasn't available. Is that really true? What
> did these trucks come with?

The ford corporate is more limited but the Dana 60 has many choices.
Summit, Jeggs, Cepek and others have gears listed for them. We need
to know the tire size, just take a tape out there and eyeball the
overall diameter horizontally and we can get it in the ball park :-)
Or if you want measure the actual rolling radius (from the ground
to the center of the axle) and I can calculate it for you. Ford will
only sell what it offered on the vehicle and on older ones they don't
even stock all of those.......:-(


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:40:21 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: Heater core trouble. :(

Daniel,
Don't despair! I had my heater core out to replace the blower motor in
my 76. I have factory air. It turned out to be a project that I put my
self through more pain worrying about it before the job than the amount
of pain actually performing it!! There should be a sicker in the engine
compartment on the A/C evaporator housing on the firewall that says "Do
NOT open this assembly to service the blower motor..." or something to
that effect. BELIEVE it!!! You have to go in through the passenger
compartment. Took me about 4 hours alone to do the job. Following the
factory procedure in the Helm manual I was able to do it WITHOUT dumping
the refrigerant charge in the A/C system.

Let me know if you need more info.

Tom H.


- ------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 17:44:46 -0800 (PST)
From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
Subject: Heater core trouble. :(

Well, here's the latest on my truck. My windows have been
fogging
up REALLY bad all winter; I've had my windows lokking like the inside
of
a hot house. Anyway, I just figured that it was due to the size of my
truck (I have a supercab). Well, today cloud of steam and the smell of
antifreeze were coming out of my vents. :( :( :( On the bright side, no
anti-freeze is leaking in to the cab!! So, do I need to change out my
heater core, or is there something else worth looking in to? If I do
have
to change it out, what kind of a job am I looking at? I have a 1977
F150
Supercab with a 400ci V8 and factory air. I need to do it soon, since
I'm
freezing my tookus off here in Reno. Thanks for the help.

- -
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 11:45:33 -0700
From: "Michael Connor"
Subject: Re: Rear end ratio change & distributor

Marco wrote,

>Second, I have a 71 f250 4x4 with dana 44f/60r. I went to my parts house
to
>find a taller (shorter? how does that work anyway) gear for my diffs so my
>engine wouldn't roar along at 60 mph. Apparently the f250's came with
>4.56's or 4.10's. I asked about a price on a 3.73 but was told it wasn't
>available. Is that really true? What did these trucks come with?
>
>I will make it a point to drive once or twice with a tach hooked up to see
>just what I am making at 60.
>
>Meantime any help on the gearset availability front would be appreciated.
>
>marko in vancouver
*************************************************

Marco,

My 77 came with 4.10's and I used to run approx. 2700-2800 rpm with 33's at
60 mph. I understand that Ford went to 3.54's in the trucks beginning
in 78.

There is a formula that I used recently to calculate RPM for a given axle
ratio-


168 x (Gear Ratio) x (MPH) divided by (Tire Radius)

In my case I wanted to know how much RPM drop I could acheive by going
to 3.73's.

My first 4.10 calculation gave me the rpm below, but was not concurrent with
the 2700-2800 that my tach was telling me so I fudged the tire radius number
to 15 instead of 16.5 (half of 33")

168 x 4.10 x 60 / 16.5 = 2504 RPM
168 x 4.10 x 60 / 15 = 2755 RPM

2755 RPM is closer to where my tach was reading at 60MPH so I used a
tire radius of 15 instead of 16.5 in all of my subsequent calculations.
I then just used the formula and changed the gear ratio to 3.73 and got-

168 x 3.73 x 60 /15 = 2507 RPM

I then calculated for 3.54's-

168 x 3.54 x 60 / 15= 2379 RPM

What this told me is this - in my application, going from 4.10's to 3.73's
would
drop my RPM approx. 248 RPM. 4.10's to 3.54's would drop an additional 128
RPM
for a total RPM reduction of 376 RPM from 2755 to 2379 at 60 MPH.

My 460 makes all its torque around 2400 to 2500 RPM, so I elected to go with
the
3.54's... Mileage hovers around 10 MPG on the highway, and putting a camper
on the
back and towing a jeep behind seems to be no problem at all. For my needs,
it seems
to be a good combination.

BTW, this is with a C6 automatic trans.

Check out Reider Racing at-

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.4x4now.com/4wsdtrr.htm

they have the gearsets you need......


Hope this helps,

Mike
Phoenix, AZ.
77 F250 4WD 460/C6

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 13:42:22 -0500
From: shoman p3.net
Subject: Re: Rear end ratio change & distributor

My friend 74 F-250 came with 4.10's from the factory..
Also the 70 F-250 I'm selling has 4.10's from the Factory
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:49:25 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Re: GOOD CAM

George,
Three questions:
Which motor did you install the Edelbrock on?
What were the before/after MPG numbers?
What does AFB mean?
TIA. I have a goal to increase the MPG on my 76 390FE and am
considering a spread bore carb among other things.

______________________________________________
I have to agree. After many years as a faithfull holley man, I tried an
Edlebrock(AFB).
Much better driveability and mileage and much more tuneable. There are
no gaskets below the fuel leval and no rubber parts. The metering rods
are a much easier way to tune midrange than those damn power valves, and
the don't blow if you backfire.
I got tired of arguing with the die-hard holley set and rarely get into
this debate anymore. I sure don't miss scraping those miserable bowl and
jetplate gaskets. You can't go wrong using an Edlebrock
cam-manifold-carb combo.
George

- ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:29:53 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: Flywheel Problem STILL!!!

Try www.usedparts.com. It's the network that a local salvage yard used
to find a cruise control steering wheel for me.

Tom H

- ------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 18:47:28 -0500
From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
Subject: Flywheel Problem STILL!!!

Well fellow Truck enthusiasts I have a problem with my local yard as I
said before they had given me what y'all decifered as a 351M flywheel so
on Friday I was off to the yard again to buy another one they did'nt
have one so the guy had to order one from another yard he calls me today
and says the flywheel was in so with my # in hand , the one the Ford
dealer gave me, I asked the yard guy what the # was on the one he had
and it was different he said the Hollander is never wrong but guess what
it is the one he got me is for a car 10" clutch he says I will never
find one with the exact #'s on it What I want to know is how hard can it
be for this bonehead who has access to yards all over the US to find me
a flywheel for a 69 Ford truck 302 with an 11" clutch? If anyone knows
something else I need to be looking for or if the one from the 351M will
somehow work please help this is very frustrating to me to keep paying
for non-refundable special order parts only to find out that it's the
wrong one Thank you all.

Duke's
Fine 69
F-100
302

- ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 14:24:38 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: E 350

I would like to purchase an E350 cab and chassis. ( Van type front end
with at least 161" wheel base and dual rear wheels. Some times
referred to as Box vans. They are most commonly used in motorhomes....


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