fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, February 9 1998 Volume 02 : Number 083



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: The 351M Gilligans Adventure Continues ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: Decode axle code [John MacNamara ]
Wrecker [am14 chrysler.com]
Married Xfercases [am14 chrysler.com]
89' 4 cylinder (mustang) [ECampb5214 aol.com]
Re: speakers ["Harry Jennings" ]
Re: where to put speakers in 66F100 [ECampb5214 aol.com]
RE: Wrecker [Sleddog ]
Watrery oil [am14 chrysler.com]
GOOD CAM [FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)]
Re: 89' 4 cylinder (mustang) [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Claying the Pistons ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Carb Size? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: speakers in 66F100 [Rustforfun aol.com]
Re: Turn Signal Switch [Rustforfun aol.com]
Bell housing bolt pattern302/352 [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: 89' 4 cylinder (mustang) [Dennis Pearson ]
Re: Bell housing bolt pattern302/352 [Mike Schwall ]
Rear Wheel Horsepower [Keith Srb ]
Re: "Floating a Valve" ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: tailgate won't close ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Wisdom [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Wisdom ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Horror Story on my 351M [A64F100 aol.com]
Re: QuadraVan ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Nominations [Ken Payne ]
Re: GOOD CAM ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Horror Story on my 351M ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: "Floating a Valve" ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 390 or 460? [John Pajak ]
71 Resto update [Stu Varner ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 08:09:06 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: The 351M Gilligans Adventure Continues

> From: Bzysignl aol.com
> Date: Sun, 8 Feb 1998 02:38:20 EST
> Subject: The 351M Gilligans Adventure Continues

> Look at the rad cap while it is running to see if the fluid is
> =bubbling in side. This will indcate a crack or blown gasket also.

You have to do this when cold and before the thermostate opens or
what you will see is the "flow" which may look like bubbling. If
there is no white smoke you could have a leak but it's not getting
into the cylinders. It could still be getting into the oil through
other passages........

I'm rusty on the 335 but I think it's possible for water and oil to
mix in the front cover. I know it is on the 460 for sure and due to
it's aluminum cover which corrodes it happens all too often. The 335
has a flat steel cover so this may not be a problem but.........

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 05:58:21 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Decode axle code

Jim Henjum wrote:

> Anyone with a decoder out there I need some help.
> I am looking at a 77 (late 77) f250 4x4. It has a GVWR of 8100. Anyway,
> the axle code is 24J. If anyone can look it up and let me know what the
> front axle and gear ratio is, it would be greatly appreciated!

Jim: I have a service manual for 78 but think codes would be the same.
The 24 indicates 4:10 ration and the J indicates power steering.

Does that sound correct

>
>

Thanks
John

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 GT500
66 Vette

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 09:12:27 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Wrecker

Sleddog writes: >>ps- it ain't a ford, but i saw a late 60's dodge 3/4
ton tow truck 4X4 for $600, with the boom and PTO still on the truck.
need a boom?

Where were you 10/15 years ago???? I retired from the farming
operation 3 years ago, so can't justify it anymore. I looked
everyplace for one of these things up until the last 5 years. Can't
beat them for getting mired machinery out of the muck, but since I am
only an observer now, I guess I'd best pass this one up. Thanks for
the thought, though.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 09:49:31 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Married Xfercases

Don writes and Jeff concurs:>>Starting with the 65production year Ford
switched to the "married" case in the F-100's

Thanks guys. I had no idea when it started in the lighter versions. I
do know about the F250's and the F350's but it was a mystery to me
about the F100/F150 types.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 09:52:13 EST
From: ECampb5214 aol.com
Subject: 89' 4 cylinder (mustang)

Hey all

I was driving home from Blaine, in the stang when i realizing, i was going to
be late. So i floored it to get by some mother F***'s in a toyota. I buried
the speed0' 90+, when i was abroaching the exit i came off the gas, and the
engine did this loud rattle. Only when i floor it, and take it that high a
speed well it do that, it sounds like a exhaust part is touching something,
But only when at high speeds. Please tell me what you think it is, Its
nothing visible. Its a 89 mustang with 4 EFI cylinder not turboed automatic

Thanks
Ethan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 08:43:34 CST
From: "Harry Jennings"
Subject: Re: speakers

>From: Don Grossman
>Subject: Re: where to put speakers in 66F100

>Speakers in a 61-66 truck can be a problem. Currently I have 6x9's
>located in the removable door panels. If you have the door pocket
>option this could be a problem. If you used smaller speakers you could
mount them in the upper cab areas just to the sides of the rear window,
but you will have one right in your ear.

As someone said earlier they mounted a set under the dash pointing
down. I recently saw this in a jeep and it worked and looked good.
>Well not seeing them was also a plus. I would like to add some
>speakers
>maybe under the seat if possible.
======================================================================
II can tell you were I placed my speakers. I, too, was going to put
6'x9's in the door but didn't. Instead I placed a good 6 1/2" speaker in
the lower forward section of the doors (rather than in the panel). I
also have a custom box under the driver and passengers side of the seat.
Each box is only about 4" high. Each one contains an 8" woofer that
points straight up and a small tweater that points forward.

In order to get the box's to fit and be big enough I had to use truck
floor as the bottom of the box. The seat had to be removed and placed
ontop of the box's, too. It wasn't all that hard, though. Sounds great.
I have a small amp under the center of the seat, too. I am thinking
about putting a CD changer inder the center of the seat in front of the
amp. That way the front of the CD changer would be right at the edge
seat.

Harry.

______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 09:57:22 EST
From: ECampb5214 aol.com
Subject: Re: where to put speakers in 66F100

EDDie

On my 76 250 i but them in the doors in the stock local, but assuming you
dont, i also biult aspeaker box to put behind the seat, i made i big enough
to house 4 more speakers, and hinged it so i could put stuff in it. Good luck

EThan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 10:12:50 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Wrecker

they are also great for pulling motors. if i only had the time i'd get it.
when i saw it i thought hhmmm, dana 60 front, dana 70 rear, but alas, it
was a light duty truck. thought the axles would be worth the price if it
was a 1 ton. a lot of people are waiting for a good deal on 1 ton
drivetrain parts.

sleddog

- ----------
From: am14 chrysler.com[SMTP:am14 chrysler.com]
Sent: Monday, February 09, 1998 9:12 AM
To: Fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Wrecker

Sleddog writes: >>ps- it ain't a ford, but i saw a late 60's dodge 3/4
ton tow truck 4X4 for $600, with the boom and PTO still on the truck.
need a boom?

Where were you 10/15 years ago???? I retired from the farming
operation 3 years ago, so can't justify it anymore. I looked
everyplace for one of these things up until the last 5 years. Can't
beat them for getting mired machinery out of the muck, but since I am
only an observer now, I guess I'd best pass this one up. Thanks for
the thought, though.

Azie






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 10:21:33 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Watrery oil

Greg writes: >>Where is the water coming from? You may also remember
that I never did see any obvious sign of hd gasket problem once the
heads were off? Do I have a cracked block, or is there ANYTHING,
PLEASE, ANYTHING, it might be that I wouldn't have to tear everything
apart again. I'm looking at long blocks now.

Sure sorry to hear about your bad luck with the water still being there
after all that work. I'm not as familiar with the 351M/400 as I am
with the FE's and the 429/460's but only way for water to mix with the
oil in any engine I've ever worked on is the headgaskets or intake
manifold gaskets or cracked head or cracked block. I sure hope you
don't have either of the others. Before I'd buy a Short or Long block
from a parts house, I would buy a complete engine that is rebuildable
from a salvage yard. These rebuildable units are called "cores" . They
should guarantee no cracks and sometimes tell you the crank is good.
I'd rebuild it and swap the engines out, or put my recriporcating parts
in the "Core" block. If you were to do this, be sure to have new cam
bearings put in while you have the block stripped.

Good luck

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 10:27:51 -0500
From: FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)
Subject: GOOD CAM

Can anyone tell me a good cam for a 351w
i am looking for more torque . I sometimes pull
a camper with my truck and would like more
power to pull the mountians of WV .Also
witch carb and intake setup would be good for this HOLLEY or EDELBROCK
.thanks for any
good ideas .

1970 F100
2wd swb
351w 4sd
RANDY

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 07:34:54 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 89' 4 cylinder (mustang)

ECampb5214 aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey all
>
> I was driving home from Blaine, in the stang when i realizing, i was going to
> be late. So i floored it to get by some mother F***'s in a toyota. I buried
> the speed0' 90+, when i was abroaching the exit i came off the gas, and the
> engine did this loud rattle. Only when i floor it, and take it that high a
> speed well it do that, it sounds like a exhaust part is touching something,
> But only when at high speeds. Please tell me what you think it is, Its
> nothing visible. Its a 89 mustang with 4 EFI cylinder not turboed automatic
>
> Thanks
> Ethan




See if you can duplicate the same while in the driveway. Take the engine to the
same RPM as it would be at 90+ then let off of the accelerator. If you hear the
noise then it will be easier to trace. If you don't then keep your rode rage in
check with some prosaic and don't get it above 90 ;)

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 10:58:01 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Claying the Pistons

> Date: Sun, 08 Feb 1998 16:59:16 -0800
> From: Marv Miller
> Subject: Re: Claying the Pistons

> Note to Steve: For extra credit, discribe how to make your own
> home-made fly cutters out of bigger valves if there IS interference.

You're going to do this before you replace the valve guides right?
This is actually a very interesting idea and one I have never seen in
magazine articles. I made a fly cutter to open the area around my
U-joint cups so I can put a real snap ring in there. Found out the
hard way it MUST be hardened or it will gall, DANG! Now it's hard
but the heat treat warped the shank just enough that it runs out now
so I'm going to have to touch it up in the O.D. grinder or, more
likely a whirly-gig on a surface grinder since I let the lathe hand
talk me out of centers in the ends............:-( Hind sight.....:-)

Turns out my bigest mistake other than trying it soft was to try to
clamp it solidly in a vise. Since It uses two pilots all I have to
do is support the bottom in such a way as to clear the pilot and let
it "float". This method, of course is not for amatures! DONT' DO
THIS AT HOME!

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 11:08:25 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Carb Size?

> From: GMPACHECO aol.com
> Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 23:59:22 EST
> Subject: Re: Carb Size?

> I believe I started this mess regarding carb sizes, I installed the
> manifold and carb today, put a eldelbrock performer manifold and
> 600 carb in a 302, seems to run, tomorrow I'll take it out on the
> Freeway, its got real quick response and seems like no dead spot ,
> but tomorrow will tell..

Just picked up a copy of a 4wheel mag (March but can't remember which
one, I think it's Petersons with all the BooBoo pics on the front)
and it's got a neat article on offroading a Rochester and it states
that "Everyone knows that the Rochester is the king of off road
carbs" due to no slosh etc.. They are tricky to set up but once they
are..............:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 11:29:15 EST
From: Rustforfun aol.com
Subject: Re: speakers in 66F100

I "mounted" two box speakers under the seat in my 65 F100 since I
couldn't but them behind the seat thanks to the gas tank. This is a plus
because the less someone sees inside your truck the less they may want to
break in. I mounted my stereo under the dash since I have the original
working am radio in dash.
This setup is also good for added bass response and feel.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 11:30:28 EST
From: Rustforfun aol.com
Subject: Re: Turn Signal Switch

My '65 doesn't, but I also assumed it was broken.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 11:31:06 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Bell housing bolt pattern302/352

Mike writes: >>Also, I don't know much about 352 motors, but does it
have the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the small blocks (302/351)?

Nope! Same as 332/360/390/406/410/427/428!!!

Also I have a question -- How can you tell a 352 from a 360 with the
engine in the vehicle and intact???? They look the same to me!!!!

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 08:40:09 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: 89' 4 cylinder (mustang)

T >noise then it will be easier to trace. If you don't then keep your rode
rage in
>check with some prosaic and don't get it above 90 ;)
>
>Dana
>

You mean, like no poetry while driving?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 10:40:09 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Bell housing bolt pattern302/352

>Also I have a question -- How can you tell a 352 from a 360 with the
>engine in the vehicle and intact???? They look the same to me!!!!

Saw 352 stamped on the block. About the middle of the timing chain cover
on the right side. The block was bare - only cam and crank/pistons still
in it. No heads. intake, or front cover.

I lucked out on that transmission. It bolted up to my 302 bellhousing
without a hitch. Everything hooked up fine. Only mod was to make a new
hole for the shifter.

Need to replace the bearings in the tranny though - sounds like I'm driving
a dump truck.

Thanks,

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 09:52:20 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Rear Wheel Horsepower

This is a "what if" type question.


What if i had a 390 mated to a Warner T-18, (a four speed with granny low), and a 9 inch rear end.


Lets say the 390 puts out 400 horsepower on the engine dyno.


Now, lets say you put this engine, transmission, and rear end combination in a Ford Truck.


About how much horsepower would be lost, due to the effort used to turn the transmission, rear end and so on, if we put this truck on rear wheel dyno ???


Can someone estimate this number for me ??


Thanks!



Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie

Mesa, AZ

1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.

1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.

1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long
Box, Style Side.

1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner,

Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.

My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"





------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 12:15:27 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: "Floating a Valve"

> Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 23:14:01 -0500
> From: Jeff
> Subject: Re: "Floating a Valve"

> Sleddog,
>
> Your wisdom is as Soloman's...

Don't let it go to your head, Sleddog, remember what happened to
Soloman in his later life............you're not messing with
any Moabitesses are you? :-)

All this discussion kind of makes one go to sleep counting
dual and triple spring sets Eh?.......:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 12:24:14 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: tailgate won't close

> From: "Nathan B."
> Date: Sun, 08 Feb 1998 17:34:35 CST
> Reply-to: fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net

> shut correctly. Using a rope and tire iron I got it shut. It has
> been like that for six months now. I was just curious if the box
> will ever go back or any other suggestions anyone has. I also had a

It's probably rusted so that the sides don't stay in place. I welded
mine but the metal I welded to is now rusted out again so I just
shove real hard on both sides before I try to slam it home and
usually get it close enough to catch the latches :-)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 12:27:22 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Wisdom

Please excuse the non FOMOCO content!!!

Jeff writes >>Your wisdom is as Soloman's...


You know -- I've been taught all my life about the wisdom of
Soloman!! And I know he was very wise in many ways, but I can't
understand why any man would want 90 some wives and 300 concubines!!!
This is beyond my comprehension. I have but one (1) wife and no
concubines, and thats more than enough to have to put up with on a
daily basis. Don't most of you men agree??????????/

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 13:10:08 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Wisdom

> From: am14 chrysler.com
> Subject: Wisdom
> Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 12:27:22 -0500

> You know -- I've been taught all my life about the wisdom of
> Soloman!! And I know he was very wise in many ways, but I can't
> understand why any man would want 90 some wives and 300
> concubines!!! This is beyond my comprehension. I have but one (1)
> wife and no concubines, and thats more than enough to have to put up
> with on a daily basis. Don't most of you men agree??????????/

Actually by the time he finished he had amassed 700 wives and 300
concubines, many of whom were pagan which was also his undoing. He
was wise when younger obviously but he sure slipped as he got
older.......

He was also the one who said some 4,000 years ago that there were no
worthy women to be found (he should know, right?) and things have
only gone down hill from there......:-(

This last statement is, of course my own opinion based on
unfulfilling relationships so please don't be offended if you happen
to be female :-) It's sort of a secret male joke, only spoken
between males when no females are around to argue the point :-) Take
a look at Proverbs chapter 31, vs 10 - 31 for a picture of what
Soloman thought good women should be like :-) For some reason, when
I show this to my wife she gets upset.........................


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 13:16:21 EST
From: A64F100 aol.com
Subject: Re: Horror Story on my 351M

In a message dated 98-02-07 14:58:56 EST, you write:


series was prone to cracking near the valve chamber. I`ve seen this happen
on them when you take the heads off to do a valve job. Seems that they
take a set when they clamp them at the factory and run the hot and cold
cycle over the years. When you unbolt them they may or may not crack. Also
did you notice if the motor was puffing white smoke while it was running?
this would indcate that water was getting in from a crack or a blown
gasket. Look at the rad cap while it is running to see if the fluid is
bubbling in side. This will indcate a crack or blown gasket also >>

This whole thing must be some weird M-block coincidence... Yesterday I
changed the oil in my 400, and sure enough there was water in it. It had been
puffing white smoke, but I just figured the fuel mixture was off. I put new
oil in thinking that maybe it was just bad luck, because I had left the truck
outside with no hood for about a month. I don't know why the head gasket would
go bad because the motor was freshly rebuilt and hasn't really done much other
than idle and rev in the driveway (because of driveshaft problems.) After I
put the new oil in the smoke stopped, but for how long, right. So I guess I'll
run it a little more, then check the oil. If it's watery, ooff come the heads.
I hope it's just a bad gasket.

Later.
Scott L

*Keep It Ford Blue*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 13:23:03 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: QuadraVan

> Subject: Re: QuadraVan
> From: dchez juno.com (David T Sanchez)
> Date: Sun, 08 Feb 1998 21:54:52 EST

> I've seen one of these near my office recently. This one is an '87
> 1 ton 4X4 and has the diesel engine. The badging on the front
> fenders and rear door say QuadraVan. It also has 33" tires and has
> a pretty menacing stance. Does anyone know any more about these
> unique trucks?

I mentioned this before but the only, unofficial reference to this
I've seen is an owner who told me they made 2000 out in CA on a
special contract with ford to be sold on certain dealer lots as a
test, I presume? His was a club wagon, I think 86 but not sure now
and had a wierd telescoping radius arm and the cross member hacked
off. I can't believe ford condoned something like that but he
claimed it was an official job?? You'd think they'd at least cut the
rivits and remove the whole thing or at least clean it up a little
better??

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 13:23:28 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Nominations

To those so inclined...

To those have haven't already done so, stop by Carlounge's
Top 10 Automotive Sites nomination page and enter a nomination
for Ford Truck Enthusiasts (http://www.ford-trucks.com). Your
vote is appreciated.

Thanks,
Ken
Admin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 13:30:50 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: GOOD CAM

> From: FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)
> Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 10:27:51 -0500
> Subject: GOOD CAM

> Can anyone tell me a good cam for a 351w
> i am looking for more torque . I sometimes pull
> a camper with my truck and would like more
> power to pull the mountians of WV .Also
> witch carb and intake setup would be good for this HOLLEY or
> EDELBROCK .thanks for any good ideas .

One bronco member used a SVO 303 roller cam but I think he was
looking for more top end. He was fairly happy with it last I heard.

Holleys are holes in the top of the engine for fuel and air to flow
through, Edlebrocks are carburetors as are Rochesters and Carter
AFB's. Your choice :-)

Actually Holley's are OK but they don't meter as well at lower rpms
so are wastefull and don't work very well off road at all due to
float bowl slosh etc.. If you are going to buy one new, I'd
recommend the Edlebrock or one of the spreadbores (you need a special
spread bore manifold, but not ford, they're proprietary). Rochester
is reputed to be the primier off road carb but Offenhouser is the
only company I know of which makes a manifold to fit fords.


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 13:34:23 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Horror Story on my 351M

> From: A64F100 aol.com
> Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 13:16:21 EST
> Subject: Re: Horror Story on my 351M

> just bad luck, because I had left the truck outside with no hood for
> about a month. I don't know why the head gasket would go bad because

I had a 67 with 352 and it did the same thing but I left it for 6
months at a time and the crank case would litterally fill up with
condensation. All the breathers were in place and I never did figure
it out but it was not leaking coolant at all. This water came from
the outside somehow?? It had a hood on it too.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 13:48:05 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: "Floating a Valve"

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: "Floating a Valve"
> Date: Sun, 8 Feb 1998 13:28:48 -0500

> bounce is there, but when pushed hard into the "red zone" the action
> of the valve relative to the lobe on the camshaft shows that the
> valvetrain can't accelerate fast enough to keep up with the lobe.
> at this point, the vlave and lobe become "disconnected". the lifter
> will most likely come back to the base circle of the cam, with full
> valve closer, and then the valve bounces off the seat. the bounce
> can happen even when the cam lobe is followed properly.

I'm no expert here but it's a time thing. As mentioned the spring
has to be able to accellerate the valve, rocker, push rod and lifter
fast enough to keep them firmly pressed against the lobe and base
circle at all times. I find it hard to imagine valve "flutter"
without some float since flutter implies that the spring is not
following the cam profile which has a "ramp" built into it to deter
this very problem??

If you exceed the cam's red line rating then the ramp may be too
quick to completely control the descent to the seat allowing it to
bounce but now we're mincing words IMHO since this would actually be
a form of float, right?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 11:06:57 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Re: 390 or 460?

Thanks to all who responded to my engine questions. BTW the truck
is 2WD. I forgot to mention that I already bought a 390 crank which
has been turned .010/.010 and a set of 390 rods. So it really should
be a no brainer. I know I need new pistons because of the slipper
skirts. I also have another complete parts truck with a 360/C6 so I
have plenty of spare parts! 390 it will be :)

===
John Pajak JSPajak rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

75 F100 2WD

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 13:14:09 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: 71 Resto update

Please indulge me as I send out some thank yous and ask some questions.
When I purchased my semi-one-owner low mileage, rust free, original paint,
unmolested, pampered by an older gentleman, 71 4x4 f-100 from Arizona by
way of Mississippi two years ago, I wanted to restore it to perfection.
But, with only limited mechanical abitlies I began to feel the resto may
never take place by me! Money$$$$$$, being important and essential for
buying food and surviving on this planet, I could never have afforded to
hire it done. Since I do have a thirst for reading and study( the list and
reading auto related books and of course the basic mechanical skills too) I
have found that because of this LIST and the quality of info that gets
provided,
*******************
Minus the PCV valve debate in March and April last year which almost made me
jump into some sort of acid bath while attempting to drown myself.....
*******************
I have dismantled my truck for the resto! It's now or never baby!! WHAT
AN UNDERTAKING!! While
my confidence level is higher, THANKS TO THE LIST, along with my trusted
neighbor (John) to rely on who is very OVER qualified in his mechanical
abilties, I (we) have undertaken what will probably be a 1-2 year
semi-frame off resto. The cab will only be lifted off the frame long
enough to clean and paint the frame in that section, then refitted to the frame.

This past weekend the front clip etc. was removed piece by piece and all
parts have been packed up, cataloged, documented, and are waiting to be
cleaned and repainted for reassembly in my 24X32 shop. The motor was
removed VERY easily and will not be sent off to be machined and rebuilt from
a 360 2V into a 390 4V until a month before reassembly.

The NP 435 trans was not as cooperative. GGGGRRRR!!!! I wanted to leave
the transfer case and trans hooked together as it is only in need of a new
front seal and cleaned & painted, it would be sitting for at least a year.
I sez to myself, " the less to remove and tear apart the better. right?? "
I liked to never have gotten that sucker out of there! I took the top
cover off the trans to remove the shifter assembly with forks attached
because the pins on the shifter base were not cooperating and I was on a
limited time frame yesterday. It had to come out! Covered the open trans
top up with one of momma's clean bath towels (I am a dead man!!) and used
the cherry picker to snatch the whole assembly out. Reassembled the trans
and the rest is history. BTW - I am amazed at the shape the internal gears
of the transmission are in. It looks so clean! The throwout bearing was
shot which explains the chatter in the clutch!! You guys said the NP 435
was heavy, You are correct!! Especially with the transfer case hooked to
it! So, here are some questions after several cuts and bruises........

Question #1
Is there an easier way to install the trans and transfer case when I
reassemble the engine / driveline than the way I pulled it out??

Question #2
Anyone know where I can get new shifter boots for the 2-4 wheel drive
shifter and the regular gear shift???? Mine are torn and I really hate to
reinstall them looking like that.

Question #3
Anyone have any advice on the trans and what should be done to it since it
will not be rebuilt and will be sitting for at least 1 year?? Anything
besides the front seal that needs replaced??


I have found this to be simple and straight forward so far. (Remember, I am
the village idiot!) Nothing seems too complicated and through the use of
notes, photographs and video tapes, I will have an accurate record of where
it all goes together when finished. Interestingly, I have found what appear
to be factory assembly line markings on the frame, under the hood, on the
valve cover, on the rear end. All documented for the sake of further
enthusiast who may be that particular. If anyone does have advice and a
recomendations, please feel free to pass it along. I am one who will take
all the help he can get from the qualified crew we have
on borad.


MORE QUESTIONS and a few thanks!!

AGAIN, LET ME THANK YOU ALL FOR THE KNOWLEDGE AND THE CONFIDENCE YOU HAVE....


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