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Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 15:06:37 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #7
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, January 6 1998 Volume 02 : Number 007



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #5 ["David L. Reeves" ]
Valve lash [am14 chrysler.com]
'63 CC [John Strauss ]
Pistons 410 [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: 410 pistons & misc. ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: Steering, C-6 Aftermarket Shifters? [Sleddog ]
Re: '63 CC [A66f100 ]
Re:460 & AOD, was Digest V2 #5 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Fuel tank, tranny rebuild ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
1977 351M [Gregg Park ]
Re: 1977 351M [John MacNamara ]
Re: 1977 351M [robineil juno.com]
Re: 1977 351M [Jean and Phillip Johnson ]
Re: Steering, C-6 Aftermarket Shifters? ["Bill Beyer"
1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special ["Abajo, Ed" ]
Re: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special ["Bill Beyer" ]
RE: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special [Sleddog ]
Carbon and suffering. ["MICHAEL THOMAS" ]
Re: Valve lash ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
F100 > F250 [John Pajak ]
torque converters [SAR HOG ]
Re: 1977 351M ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
RE: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special ["Abajo, Ed" ]
Re: Carbon and suffering. [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
RE: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special ["Abajo, Ed" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 07:12:25 -0500
From: "David L. Reeves"
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #5

Message text written by INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
>
David Reeves
78F150/460/C6

I'm planning on replacing my motorcraft 4 bbl with an Edelbrock 1411. Do=
es
anyone have any experience with the Edelbrock, particularly for idle and
drivability? I am also thinking of replacing the C6 with an AOD to get
another gear and lock up but have not been able to determine if the AOD w=
as
ever available for the 460. Does anyone have any info? Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 08:48:50 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Valve lash

>>AT .020-.022" YOU WOULD HAVE A LOT OF CLATTER! I WOULD SUGGEST
.002-.0022" PROBABLY WORK JUST
AS WELL WITH A LOT LESS NOISE!

NOPE - TWENTY THOUSANDTHS is correct - not TWO THOUSANDTHS.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 08:16:38 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: '63 CC

>John,
>It is not a unibody. The engine sounded good, but I did not have time to
drive
>it. I was looking for a truck for my daughter when I spotted this one. She
>liked this one fairly well. However she really wants a 66 CC like mine. Soooo
>looks like the search goes on for a 66. Thought seriously about buying it for
>myself. The powers that be vetoed that idea. Oh well. Thanks for all the info
>everyone posted on the 63. Mike.
>
Mike,
Where are you located? I know of a decent '65 CC for restoration that can
be had for $500. It doesn't run but it's all there as far as I know. It's
in Austin, Texas.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 09:30:46 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Pistons 410

Marko: Unless I was boring the block, I would reuse the pistons that
are in the 410. I've found that FOMOCO pistons have a very good
longevity record for reuse. Clean them up - inspect them very
carefully and reuse them if you see no obvious flaws. Saves a bunch of
$'s also. Rings, bearings(Cam, mains, rods), gaskets, and a head job
should get you out for less than $400. I wouldn't even turn the crank
unless it was egg shaped or rough. If it is smooth and round I would
just polish it and go from there. The cam and lifters are probably
reusable also. This is usually a matter of preference by the
individual.

>>Okay, now that you're suitably bored, explain to me if I should
bother with forged pistons. I doubt it. What do you think? Are there
any other
pistons I could try (there seem to be precious few available anymore).

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 09:52:36 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 410 pistons & misc.

> Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 02:58:56 -0800
> From: marko
> Subject: 410 pistons & misc.

> Okay, now that you're suitably bored, explain to me if I should
> bother with forged pistons. I doubt it. What do you think? Are
> there any other pistons I could try (there seem to be precious few
> available anymore).

Hypereutectic or forged is the consensus. Cast pistons are no longer
even an option IMHO. The hypereutectic's are cast AFAIK but made of
better materials and have less movement due to heat so can be fit
tighter for longer lasting engines. If you plan to flail it then the
forged would be the choice. I used forged for one main reason with
cool being the secondary reason, they require more clearance so I was
able to salvage my block with no over bore except to clean it up and
re-hatch it for moly rings. If it had required boring to clean it up
I probably would have gone with cheaper pistons.

Now I feel that was a mistake since It's unlikely I'll ever use them
again due to OEM original size. .030" over's can be used untill
the skirts are gone in one engine after another. I guess it's a
judgement call :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 10:22:17 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Steering, C-6 Aftermarket Shifters?

i have an old ratchet shifter in mine and have never had a problem with the
cable. mine is more for race cars, but works well for me. it went thru
many Pa winters, lots a mud, and still the cable works well with no
maintainance. a good aftermarket floor shifter is great and it can be
located and adjusted to suit your own preference. my cable is b&m, and the
shifter might be b&m (i can't remember, and the plastic cover is long gone
now.)

they do make longer shifters for trucks that look like the "old" manual 3
speeds on the floor.

sleddog



Also,
When I had my cab off and on the trailer (Body Transplant) it mangled my
transmition linkage and I had already been thinking about getting any
after market floor shifter instead of my column shifter. Since I need
to replace my linkage I figured I mine as well upgrade to the floor
shifter anyways since those don't even use linkages, just cables.
(Right?) My question is whether anyone has purchased a shifter of this
type, any suggestions which ones are better, cheaper? I found a few
types in my summit catalog, I was going to go with one of those unless
anyone has any other suggestions. Thanx Everyone.....


Tyler Wilkins
Milwaukee, WI


'79 F-100 4x2 351M, C-6,BFG Radials T/A's on Crager 5-spokes, Headers,
Glasspacks
'74 F-100 4x2 360, C-6,68,000 origanal miles, Never seen a mechanic
'73 F-250 4x4 360 w/ 390 4bbl & heads,4-speed, Headers, 33" BFG Muds
'94 Explorer 4-Door, 31" BFG Radial All-Terrains






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 10:58:21 EST
From: A66f100
Subject: Re: '63 CC

John,
Sounds interesting. Any particulars on engine, tranny, condition of body,
etc.? I live in Midland/Odessa area. Thanks.
Mike.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 11:07:22 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re:460 & AOD, was Digest V2 #5

> Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 07:12:25 -0500
> From: "David L. Reeves"
> Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #5

> particularly for idle and drivability? I am also thinking of
> replacing the C6 with an AOD to get another gear and lock up but
> have not been able to determine if the AOD was ever available for
> the 460. Does anyone have any info? Thanks. +-------------- Ford

I wouldn't consider the AOD with a 460 even if it could be mated up
due to the torque. The lockup converter is very weak and prone to
failure in a V-6 application and would probably self destruct with a
460. The older manual AOD's may be better but the EAOD's are
definitely not suitable IMHO :-)

The best overall solution for the 460 (IMHO) with it's massive
torque is the wide ratio gear set for the C-6 and taller rear gears
for an over all over drive effect. The 78 PU's had 2.75 gears with
this low low gear setup and worked very well. My basically stock 460
will fry the tires in low on any surface, break them loose at 45 in
second and run very happily at about 2074 rpm at 60 mph with 2.75's
and stock tires.

4 speeds would be better of course and the E4OD can do it for you if
you don't mind setting up the computer stuff :-) (good luck)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 11:25:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Fuel tank, tranny rebuild

> Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 20:44:44 -0700
> From: mark heims
> Subject: Re: Fuel tank, tranny rebuild

> > > I would like to hear more on this. My throwout bearing is
> > > going
> > >after only about 5000 miles, but almost all my milage is towing

The deep water may have some impact here although the throwout
bearing is very well sealed usually. When I got my truck the "Boob"
the previously owned it let the clutch return spring go away and
tightened up the linkage to keep it together which, of course, makes
the bearing work all the time which it's not designed to do. If you
are not using a return spring, shame on you, if you are make sure the
linkage is adjusted so the clutch pedal has some free play before
engaging the bearing :-)


Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 08:53:36 -0800
From: Gregg Park
Subject: 1977 351M

My F150 has suddenly developed an overheating problem, and I am running
out of ideas.
Here=92s what I=92ve checked or changed-
Fan/Fan Clutch
Thermostat
Temp Sending unit
Gauge
Coolant level/coolant loss (none)=20
Waterpump
Compression/coolant contaminates=20
Hoses

It seems to be real susceptible to idle. I installed an aluminum fan
and clutch about 3 years ago, when I put a bigger radiator in it. I had
to dump the fan shroud at this time also, so I=92ve been running w/o =
one
since then with no problems. Any ideas out there? =20
Thanks. =20
Gregg

=20

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 09:18:49 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: 1977 351M

Gregg Park wrote:

> My F150 has suddenly developed an overheating problem, and I am running
> out of ideas.
> Heres what Ive checked or changed-
> Fan/Fan Clutch
> Thermostat
> Temp Sending unit
> Gauge
> Coolant level/coolant loss (none)
> Waterpump
> Compression/coolant contaminates
> Hoses
>
> It seems to be real susceptible to idle. I installed an aluminum fan
> and clutch about 3 years ago, when I put a bigger radiator in it. I had
> to dump the fan shroud at this time also, so Ive been running w/o one
> since then with no problems. Any ideas out there?

Gregg: I suggest you put the fan shroud back on as it forces air to be
sucked through the radiator at idle. Ford put that fan shroud on for a
reason. Also remember that the 351 is basically a punched out small block
so there isn't alot of water jacket for that motor.

Thanks
John MacNamara

78 F250 4X4 Supercab

> Thanks.
> Gregg
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 09:30:19 -0800
From: robineil juno.com
Subject: Re: 1977 351M

Gregg,

Have you checked to make sure the water is recirculating through the
heater core? If the heater core is clogged or defective, this will cause
the enginge to overheat. That's the only idea I have. The shroud may
make a difference too.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 12:14:01 -0600
From: Jean and Phillip Johnson
Subject: Re: 1977 351M

Gregg Park wrote:
>
> My F150 has suddenly developed an overheating problem, and I am running
> out of ideas.
> Heres what Ive checked or changed-
> Fan/Fan Clutch
> Thermostat
> Temp Sending unit
> Gauge
> Coolant level/coolant loss (none)
> Waterpump
> Compression/coolant contaminates
> Hoses
>
> It seems to be real susceptible to idle. I installed an aluminum fan
> and clutch about 3 years ago, when I put a bigger radiator in it. I had
> to dump the fan shroud at this time also, so Ive been running w/o one
> since then with no problems. Any ideas out there?
> Thanks.
> Gregg
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
An engine that is out of time will sometimes run hot. You might want to
check that out.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 10:26:00 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Steering, C-6 Aftermarket Shifters?

> Also,
> When I had my cab off and on the trailer (Body Transplant) it mangled my
> transmition linkage and I had already been thinking about getting any
> after market floor shifter instead of my column shifter. Since I need
> to replace my linkage I figured I mine as well upgrade to the floor
> shifter anyways since those don't even use linkages, just cables.
> (Right?) My question is whether anyone has purchased a shifter of this
> type, any suggestions which ones are better, cheaper? I found a few
> types in my summit catalog, I was going to go with one of those unless
> anyone has any other suggestions. Thanx Everyone.....

I bought B&M Unimatic shifter from PAW for a conversion in my Willys and
I'm very satisfied with it. It has a cable linkage, is very reliable, easy
to install, can be put just about anywhere as long as you have 2-3" of
space underneath the floorboard where you want to mount it and it's long
enough to work in a truck. It doesn't have all of the "bells and whistles"
of some of the more expensive shifters but it costs less than $90.00 at
least when I bought mine. It also has provisions for a neutral safety
switch but not for a reverse light.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 10:35:39 -0800
From: "Abajo, Ed"
Subject: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special

My truck has developed a strange problem that I hope someone can help me
with.
Sometimes, if I hit a bump with the left front wheel (and traveling at
least 30mph) the wheel will start to bounce rapidly up and down until I
brake and slow the truck down to below 20mph. Then everything returns
to normal. This happens only infrequently and I can not make it occur
on demand. I've examined the front end but nothing seems to be either
loose or broken. I've replaced the front shocks (thinking that was the
problem) but it still occurs. Any ideas? The wear on the tires is
normal so I believe the alignment is ok. What should I check next?
Ed Abajo

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 10:47:45 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special

- ----------
> From: Abajo, Ed
> My truck has developed a strange problem that I hope someone can help me
> with.
> Sometimes, if I hit a bump with the left front wheel (and traveling at
> least 30mph) the wheel will start to bounce rapidly up and down until I
> brake and slow the truck down to below 20mph. Then everything returns
> to normal. This happens only infrequently and I can not make it occur
> on demand. I've examined the front end but nothing seems to be either
> loose or broken. I've replaced the front shocks (thinking that was the
> problem) but it still occurs. Any ideas? The wear on the tires is
> normal so I believe the alignment is ok. What should I check next?

I had basically the same problem on a 4wd J**P pickup that I bought a few
years back. I ended up putting a different set of tires on and the problem
went away. Still don't know exactly what caused it but that's what fixed
it. The tires that were on it were pretty well gone. You might try swapping
the tires front to rear and seeing what happens.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 14:46:18 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special

My d*dge 4x4, with a straight front axle, four link, and track bar had a
similiar problem. every time i hit the same bump on rt 80 in NJ the left
tire would bounce for a cuoiple hundred feet before settling down. i
thought i had a bad rancho 9000, but even on full stiffness, the same thing
would happen. i usually was doing well over 65 though.

after returning the truck for a recall on the front suspension, it never
did it again. apparently the track bar was loose.

so, i think that you have something loose. support the whole front off the
ground when looking for loose parts on the front suspension. but remember
that bump puts alot more force into the truck than you can by hand.

with the tires on the ground have someone turn the steering wheel while you
look at the steering linkages, especially noting if one side seems to turn
earlier than the other side, like if one side is "tighter" than the other.

check all the rubber bushings and ball joints (tire must be unloaded to
check - please use jack stands, not just a jack.)

if 4WD, very loose spring eye bushings can cause similiar problems i
believe. loose shock mounts may conribute to this problem also.

i hope this gives you some idea of where to look. i know my truck was a
real shaker till i got it fixed. i hope you can find the problem soon.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Abajo, Ed[SMTP:EAbajo TacoBell.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 1998 1:35 PM
To: 'fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net'
Subject: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special

My truck has developed a strange problem that I hope someone can help me
with.
Sometimes, if I hit a bump with the left front wheel (and traveling at
least 30mph) the wheel will start to bounce rapidly up and down until I
brake and slow the truck down to below 20mph. Then everything returns
to normal. This happens only infrequently and I can not make it occur
on demand. I've examined the front end but nothing seems to be either
loose or broken. I've replaced the front shocks (thinking that was the
problem) but it still occurs. Any ideas? The wear on the tires is
normal so I believe the alignment is ok. What should I check next?
Ed Abajo







+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 15:17:11 -0500
From: "MICHAEL THOMAS"
Subject: Carbon and suffering.

Hope everyone had a wonderful holiday.

I have the carbon on the spark plugs syndrome that doesn't go away.
I just rebuilt the 400 plant for my '77 F150. The problem is that I
keep going through spark plugs like no one's business. It has the
Motorcraft 2150 (which is also freshly overhauled with the stock jets
and all) and the mixture screws are set out only 3 turns
(the bare minimum for it to run.) The choke is in fine operation
and the timing cannot be any better. I performed a compression check
and each cylinder had quick, great pressure (between 155 lbs. and 125
lbs.) It doesn't take but a casual drive through town and a bit of
highway use and it starts to run rough and miss. I check the spark
plugs and they are carboned up to boot, ALL eight of them!!!

I have tested the ignition system: coil is fine, I re-wired
evrything, module works, new cap and rotor, plug wires in fine
shape. Still the carbon blues, (or black.

Now here's my theory, I bought this truck with NO emissions in use.
I mean there are no PVS's, no EGR operation ( the crossover passage
in the intake was closed off by means of epoxy putty.) I really do
not feel like hooking everything up.

Will using smaller jets cure the problem??????????????


M. Dustin Thomas
mdthomas nc.edu
KB9OGG

'77 F150 Ranger 400 cubes
'91 G*C Sonoma 4-popper

Never enough time to do it
right at first, but plenty
of time to do it over.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 15:29:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Valve lash

> From: am14 chrysler.com
> Subject: Valve lash
> Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 08:48:50 -0500

> >>AT .020-.022" YOU WOULD HAVE A LOT OF CLATTER! I WOULD SUGGEST
> .002-.0022" PROBABLY WORK JUST
> AS WELL WITH A LOT LESS NOISE!
>
> NOPE - TWENTY THOUSANDTHS is correct - not TWO THOUSANDTHS.

Least I've ever seen is 0.010" for intake and 0,012j" for exhaust.
I'm sure 0.002 would fry the valves since the pushrods and valve
stems both expand when heated. In fact the pushrod engines would
have more than overhead cam which is the spec I mentioned above
since the expansion is basically doubled so 0.022 sounds about
right for push rods.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 13:22:16 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: F100 > F250

Folks, I have a question. I might want to convert my 75 F100 2wd
to 3/4 ton specs. I know I have to swap the 9" rear for a dana 60.
What about the front? Are the front spindles different? Will the 8 lug
rotors fit on the F100 spindles? What about the calipers? Or if all
else fails I'm in the market for a 73-79 F250......V8,PS,PDB,AT, and
working AC please! ;)

===
John Pajak JSPajak rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

75 F100 360/C6
68 Fairlane SW 351W/FMX
12 Oldsmobiles
1 Suburban (hey don't blame me...blame Ford for ~not~ offering one!)




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 16:26:12 EST
From: SAR HOG
Subject: torque converters

Can someone please explain the advantages/ disadvantages of a high stall
speed torque converter? I have a C-6 coupled to a 460. The guy I bought the
truck from said it has a 3000 rpm torque converter. What does this mean? The
truck appears to be built towards drag racing, but I'm using it as a daily
driver first and foremost. The transmission kinda "clunks" sometimes when it
shifts between 1st and 2nd so I'm thinkin it's gonna need some work soon. If
I pull it, would I benefit from a lower speed torque converter? Can I put a
wide-ratio gearset in it? I'm changing the rear end gear from 4.11 to 3.50
soon to try to get my rpm's down. It turns about 3700 rpm at 60 mph. I'm
guessing here cause the speedo shows 90 mph! Sorry for all the questions, I
don't know much about transmissions. Thanks for the help.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 16:34:57 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 1977 351M

> From: Gregg Park
> Subject: 1977 351M
> Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 08:53:36 -0800

> It seems to be real susceptible to idle. I installed an aluminum
> fan and clutch about 3 years ago, when I put a bigger radiator in
> it. I had to dump the fan shroud at this time also, so I've been
> running w/o one since then with no problems. Any ideas out there?

Don't know why the problem is just showing up but the shroud is very
important for low speed operation including idle. At higher vehicle
speeds the airflow is sufficient and utilizes the whole radiator, at
idle, without a shroud it only uses a small portion of the radiator.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 16:44:16 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special

> From: "Abajo, Ed"
> Subject: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special
> Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 10:35:39 -0800

> My truck has developed a strange problem that I hope someone can
> help me with. Sometimes, if I hit a bump with the left front wheel
> (and traveling at least 30mph) the wheel will start to bounce
> rapidly up and down until I brake and slow the truck down to below

Are you sure it's vertical motion? Is it a 4x4? Wheelers with large
tires will get a "head shake" due to the added weight in the tires
which can set up a sideways oscilation under certain conditions. A
steering damper will usually fix it.

Loose linkage or insufficient caster will also cause this.

If it's always the left front which starts the sequence it could be a
cracked frame, loose shackle mount bracket, loose steering box etc..

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 13:48:52 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special

>My truck has developed a strange problem that I hope someone can help me
>with.
>Sometimes, if I hit a bump with the left front wheel (and traveling at
>least 30mph) the wheel will start to bounce rapidly up and down until I
>brake and slow the truck down to below 20mph. Then everything returns
>to normal. This happens only infrequently and I can not make it occur
>on demand. I've examined the front end but nothing seems to be either
>loose or broken. I've replaced the front shocks (thinking that was the
>problem) but it still occurs. Any ideas? The wear on the tires is
>normal so I believe the alignment is ok. What should I check next?
>Ed Abajo
>

Ed:

I wouldn't want to drive around too much like this. It sounds like the
rotation of the wheel at speed is what's sorta causing it. Seems trite but
have you checked the wheel bearing? I can't think of anything else which
would be speed-sensitive. Also, check the brakes, to make sure they aren't
being jarred into binding.

Your truck's a 2wd ain't it? If it's 4wd, you may have half-shaft problems.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4
67 merc m100

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 14:00:46 -0800
From: "Abajo, Ed"
Subject: RE: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special

The truck is a 2wd. I changed the rotor, and the wheel bearings when I
did a brake job on the truck in 1996 --- about 5000 miles ago. I
could take it apart again and check it but when I replaced the shocks I
looked at the brakes/rotor and didn't see any evidence of binding (not
too sure I could see anything anyway.)

> >My truck has developed a strange problem that I hope someone can help
> me
> >with.
> >Sometimes, if I hit a bump with the left front wheel (and traveling
> at
> >least 30mph) the wheel will start to bounce rapidly up and down until
> I
> >brake and slow the truck down to below 20mph. Then everything
> returns
> >to normal. This happens only infrequently and I can not make it
> occur
> >on demand. I've examined the front end but nothing seems to be
> either
> >loose or broken. I've replaced the front shocks (thinking that was
> the
> >problem) but it still occurs. Any ideas? The wear on the tires is
> >normal so I believe the alignment is ok. What should I check next?
> >Ed Abajo
> >
>
> Ed:
>
> I wouldn't want to drive around too much like this. It sounds like
> the
> rotation of the wheel at speed is what's sorta causing it. Seems
> trite but
> have you checked the wheel bearing? I can't think of anything else
> which
> would be speed-sensitive. Also, check the brakes, to make sure they
> aren't
> being jarred into binding.
>
> Your truck's a 2wd ain't it? If it's 4wd, you may have half-shaft
> problems.
>
>
> marko in vancouver
> marko helix.net
> 71 f250 4x4
> 67 merc m100
>
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> --------------+
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>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 14:03:36 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Carbon and suffering.

>Hope everyone had a wonderful holiday.
>
>I have the carbon on the spark plugs syndrome that doesn't go away.

Carbon fouling and rich running usually shows up as black smoke out the
exhaust, and a rather thick smell. If your truck isn't making Mack-loads of
smoke, I'd look elsewhere for the problem.

from what you say, it doesn't sound like it's a fuel problem, unless there's
sugar in your gas or something. Try using clean gas, some kid may have
played a cruel joke on you. Barring that, I couldn't see gasoline causing
that kind of fouling that fast.

My suspicion is it could be oil fouling the plugs, but that would be
unlikely unless you have lotsa blue smoke. But then again, you just rebuilt
the motor, so how likely is that? Make sure your pcv system is working
fine, check your oil level and condition (it doesn't go black right away?).

If it isn't oil, or gas, and you built the engine right (no offense!!!) then
it could be the fault of your ignition system. Since all the plugs are
fouling, it could be the plugs are the incorrect heat range, and/or the
spark is way too weak for proper ignition. Oh yeah, check the timing too.
How old is the coil and the ignition box? Is the cap nice and clean, are
the wires okay (altho it is unlikely that they are all equally defective)?
Sometimes coils have a tendency to not work as well as they should, to "die
slowly". Check the coil wire too.

More I think about it, more I suspect it really could be incorrect heat
range of plugs. Ensure you have the correct plug for your type of driving
in your conditions. Try changing brands.

Good luck, hoping you can cure the problem cheaply...


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4
67 merc m100

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 14:07:09 -0800
From: "Abajo, Ed"
Subject: RE: 1973 F-250 Ranger Camper Special

I pretty sure it is vertical motion -- the truck is a 2wd with 9.50x16.5
tires on it. The left front tire seems to develop a flat spot on it
when its been sitting for a while --- I feel/hear a thumping noise for
the first couple of miles of driving until the tire smooths itself out.
When I changed the shocks last weekend I did not see any evidence of a....

---

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