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Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 15:51:22 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #66
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, February 3 1998 Volume 02 : Number 066



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

re: ford truckin [jniolon uss.com]
Steering damper update ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
'64 Interior parts wanted [Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)]
Re: ITS ALIVE !!!!! [Brian ]
Re: 428 Flywheel/Dana 44 Gears [BDIJXS aol.com]
Steering wheels cracking [Stu Varner ]
Re: 428 Flywheel/Dana 44 Gears [John MacNamara ]
Pushrods [am14 chrysler.com]
Carb Size [tfmf211 murphyfarms.com]
'73 rearend ["Philip Bohrer" ]
C6 tranny [tfmf211 murphyfarms.com]
Re: '73 rearend ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Flywheel problem ["Bill Beyer" ]
'68 390 2v to a 4v [tfmf211 murphyfarms.com]
Re: Flywheel problem [dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)]
Re: Flywheel problem ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
hood scoop [shoman p3.net]
Re: '68 390 2v to a 4v ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: Carb Size? & airflow formula ["Dave Resch"]
Re: distributor seal [John Pajak ]
Ignition Problem ["James E. Brady III" ]
tall rear gear ["James E. Brady III" ]
Re: Headers and a C-6? [John Pajak ]
Re: Body Bushings [Don Grossman ]
Re: tall rear gear ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: '68 390 2v to a 4v [Jean and Phillip Johnson ]
Re: Headers and a C-6? [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 06:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon uss.com
Subject: re: ford truckin

I may be mistaken (I often am) but I thought Ford Truckin was a
"sometimes" publication that they finally made monthly...they redid it
as Classic Trucks (not to be confused with Custom & Classic
Trucks)...it's still available by subscription and on the news stands.

I've got quite a collection and I'll go back and find the
changeover...there was even an editorial article in one of the first
Classic Trucks about the changeover...(I think). An update and film
at eleven.

john

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 07:56:02 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Steering damper update

Well, since there's no list traffic I'll throw this out
there.......I've looked at my front end and since I've kept the sway
bar there are a lot of bars in front of the dana 44 with precious
little space for what little articulation the stock setup give you to
put any kind of bracket in there. I chose to go with the
ferruled/straight pin configuration shock so the center bracket has
holes in it for the ferrule pins and will operate with the direction
of the ball joints. The other end will go to the tie rod ends with
fabricated brackets similar to the original one but held in place
with "U" bolts.

The center bracket will utilize the two center most (to the vehicle)
bolts on the diff cover (I'll probably get longer ones in grade 8 to
make up for the bracket thickness) and one "U" bolt from my spare
sway bar brackets. It turns out that the end of the housing toward
the center of the truck is exactly on center of the vehicle so makes
a nice locator for everything. This bracket will be a flat piece of
1/8 or 3/16 steel, bent to fit exactly to the shape of the housing
when bolted to the cover and clamped with a few strategic gussets to
reinforce the top plate for the shock pin locaton. It's hard to
describe in words so I'll let that suffice for now and take a picture
when I get it done. It will be a fairly large weldment and will
add several pounds of unsprung weight but there doesn't seem to be
any practical way around it.

Hooking to the frame doesn't seem to be a viable way to go with the
shock configuration I chose although there is one possibility I'm
still entertaining which mounts the center bracket to the front cross
memher in the same location as the stock bracket but, of course, much
different in design. This design would cause the dampers to
participate in vertical damping as well at full droop so I'm a little
skeptical at this point..........Maybe that's a good thing but the
angle will reduce the effect to almost zero anyway but there is some
effect just the same.

The result I've decided will put the shocks above and slightly
outboard of the tie rod and between it and the track bar in either
case. The sway bar will not have any effect on this installaton
except to force the shock location higher which works out well
anyway. It's going to be a tight fit for sure but so far I believe
it will all fit without interferance if I'm carefull.

Going to call about that 2 post hoist in the paper but I'm sure it
will be way out of my reach at this point in time :-(

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 04:55:38 -0800
From: Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
Subject: '64 Interior parts wanted

Hi all -

I'm hoping to find some used interior parts
for my '64 F100 CrewCab. I know that this
will not be easy to find, but if any group can
stumble upon these, this group would.
(not that any of us are clumsy!)

Door trim panels in white, of course I need 4
of them.

Arm rests, I really need two left ones, but if
4 blue ones were located I'd be real happy.

Floor mat in blue.

Any leads on some of these parts would be greatly
appreciated. I'm not in any hurry, just keep me in
mind when you are out and about.

Most of this stuff can be bought as replacements
new for way too much money. Hey, it's a used
truck anyway, used parts are fine. Some of the
replacement parts are only available in black and
would look wrong too. Specially since I've been in
this truck for the past 32 years!

Soon as the rains stop for awhile, I'll be hitting the
local used parts repositories. Any leads on which
ones have good stuff cheap in the Sacramento, CA
area? Self pulling places are fine by me.
Have toolbox, will travel.

I have the Factory manual for 1964 and am quite
willing to share the information contained within,
drop me a note.

Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 07:52:36 -0500
From: Brian
Subject: Re: ITS ALIVE !!!!!

Shelektric aol.com wrote:
>
> I found the brake light wires brake where they come through the firewall. But
> check the brake light switch on the pedal first!!
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+


I don't think the '64 came with a switch at the pedal ?? It appears that
I have a pressure type switch that is connected to the master cylinder
??

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 09:43:38 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: Re: 428 Flywheel/Dana 44 Gears

Hi Guys,

Looking for a 428 flywheel....new or used. Anyone know of an aftermarket
flywheel manufacturer or a place to start?

Also, I have a set of Dana 44 (77 F-150 4x4 front) gears with 4.0 ratio, would
like to find a set of 3:50's to swap

Colorado Jeff
bdijxs aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 08:45:30 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Steering wheels cracking

Someone posted a note yesterday about steering wheels cracking. My 71's
steering wheel is also shot. There are two companies which offer
replacement steering wheels, I am assuming, (I know I should never assume,
BUT,) they are exact replicas maybe NOS steering wheels.

Has anyone thought about taking 67 thru 70 model steel steering wheel and
fitting it to the 71-77 column? Why couldn't a person have the steel wheel
powdercoated for durability? Reckon it would fit on a steering column
equipped with a plastic wheel originally???

Let me here about you thoughts on this! I may have to try it if I know it
works.
Eastwood company has a powbercoat kit out you can do at home. I just
rebuilt my kitchen and hgave the old stove in my shop. I was going to sell
it but may reconsider if I can start powdercoating parts.......HHHMMM, the
possibilities!!!!!

STU
Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 06:55:11 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: 428 Flywheel/Dana 44 Gears

BDIJXS aol.com wrote:

> Hi Guys,
>
> Looking for a 428 flywheel....new or used. Anyone know of an aftermarket
> flywheel manufacturer or a place to start?

Stick or auto? I think I have an auto one in the garage.

regards:
John

>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 10:37:24 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Pushrods

Kevin writes:>>my pushrods don't turn when a valve is opened,they
should spin alittle right?2

My experience has been that if they don't spin a little(while the
engine is running), then the valves are staying open slightly, and you
will burn valves - bigtime. Usually at fault is that when the va;lves
were ground and the valve seats in the head were ground, not enough
material was ground off the top of the valve stem to compensate for the
deeper seat of the valve into the valve seat. Just my experience.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 10:38:59 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: Carb Size

>Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 18:52:22 -0800
>From: "Bill Beyer"
>Subject: Re: Carb Size?
>
>- ----------
>
>> From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
>> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
>> Subject: Carb Size?
>> Date: Monday, February 02, 1998 6:44 AM
>> I understand the 302 cu. in. and the 6000 Max RPM, but what is VE/3456?
>>
>> -Ted
>
>VE =3D Volumetric Efficiency

I'm trying to use this formula to calculate the carb size for my 390.
Looks like a 700cfm should work for me. Is the VE a constant or
is this a variable based on exhaust port/header port size? The 3456
number is a constant. I'm just trying to understand the equation so I
can apply to other application as well.

Thanks,

-Ted

68 F100 390
70 Torino GT 351C
87 Ranger
94 Mustang
92 Sentra (Wife's Car

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 07:58:27 PST
From: "Philip Bohrer"
Subject: '73 rearend

To Gary,
Tire size is 33-12.50 R15. The engine has a Edelbrock dualplane
manifold, Holly 4160 750cfm carb, Allison breakerless pickup, Jacobs
OmniPak CDI, Dual 2 1/2" pipes to Flowmasters, and I'm told a mild cam
of some kind but I can't confirm this.
The C6 has a shift kit and a cooler but I believe it has the stock
torque converter and is not wide-ratio. I did not know they made WR
C6's. Is it possible to retrofit a late model C6 into the '73? What is
the ratio difference in 3rd gear?

Murphy is everywhere!

______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 11:19:49 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: C6 tranny

> Dunno if this will work in your application, but it worked for me. My C6
>did the same
>thing when I first installed it. My friend told me that there is an
>adjustment on the
>vacuum modulator on the back of the tranny. Pull the vacuum hose off, and
>you'll
>see a little nozzle-looking thing in the center where the hose slides on.=20
It
>has a slot
>in it. Insert a flat tip screwdriver in this slot and give it 1 full turn
>clockwise.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Mike
>Phoenix, AZ
>77 F250 4WD 460/C6

I'll try this this weekend if it's dry. We've had lots of wet weather and
without a garage........

I'll get you an update as to how it worked when I've finished.

Thanks,

-Ted

68 F100 390
70 Torino GT
87 Ranger
94 Mustang
92 Sentra (Wife's Car)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 12:17:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: '73 rearend

> From: "Philip Bohrer"
> Subject: '73 rearend
> Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 07:58:27 PST

> To Gary,
> Tire size is 33-12.50 R15. The engine has a Edelbrock dualplane
>
> manifold, Holly 4160 750cfm carb, Allison breakerless pickup, Jacobs
> OmniPak CDI, Dual 2 1/2" pipes to Flowmasters, and I'm told a mild
> cam of some kind but I can't confirm this.
> The C6 has a shift kit and a cooler but I believe it has the
> stock
> torque converter and is not wide-ratio. I did not know they made WR
> C6's. Is it possible to retrofit a late model C6 into the '73? What
> is the ratio difference in 3rd gear?

Ok, based on what I see here my trusty spread sheet says 3.17 is
right at 2k at 60 which is about where I'd stop with a 750 Holley for
drivability's sake. I forgot what engine, 390 right? The 750 is
really a high rpm carb for such a small engine and probably won't
meter very well much lower than 2k at cruise (especially being a
Holley) so 3.00 is really an over drive gear and 3.25 might be a
better bet.

The C-6 is 1:1 in 3rd gear as are virtually all trannys other than
OD's. The case is different but AFAIK the internals are
ingerchangeable so the E4OD wide ratio set will bolt in but you'd
have to tear it down and put them in since no C-6 for FE engines
came with that set stock, again, AFAIK.

The advantage the wide ratio gives you is 11% better take off from
stops with less loading of the engine and a 5% better passing gear
for use with taller rear gears. With the 460 with 600 cfm, RV cam
and this gear set the 2.75's are about right with stock 235 tires and
it has plenty of get up and go but with the 390 and larger tires a
little leeway might be prudent which is why I suggested either 3.00
or 3.25 or anywhere between if you find a set between these two with
3.25 being my choice to make up for additional rolling resistance of
the larger tires. 3.25's were common in the big Lincolns and
Merc's with 400 or 460 engines back in the mid 70's.

IMHO, 2.75's will choke the life out of your 390 with that large a
carb on it and with those tires unless all you do is stop light drag.
My bronco has the 33's and 1:1 top gear with 3.50's and runs around
2200 at 60 which is probably a tad high. I could probably get away
with 3.00's on it but may lose economy at 2k rpm instead of gaining
some so I'm leaving it at 3.5 for now. I have a 3.25 set I could try
but don't have a matching set for the front and it's a lot of work so
I just let it slide. I'm just about due for some new treads anyway
and may go to 34 or 35's which will make the 3.5's just about right.


Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 08:30:01 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Flywheel problem

Man you need to get a new parts guy! Ford made 3 different 351s, the W, C
and M. Try looking up a 400M. It should be the same.

- ----------
> From: George Schott
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: Flywheel problem
> Date: Monday, February 02, 1998 3:24 PM
>
> Gary,
> Thanks for the info. but the guy at the parts place says he never heard
> of a 351M nor does his computer have a listing for one I guess I just
> need to go back to the yard and get the right one for a 302 is this the
> only one I can use is one from a 302? Are there any numbers I can use
> for reference when they hand me the next one? Thanks.
>
> Duke's
> Fine 69
> F-100
> 302
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 10:24:57 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: '68 390 2v to a 4v

>Add to your list drain the coolant (of course), remove valve covers, and
>remove rocker arm assemblies. You have to remove the rocker shafts b/c th=
e
>pushrods go thru the intake manifold. You have to unbolt the shafts
>according to a system so that you don't bend them. Be very careful around
>compressed valve springs, unbolt these stands in stages, and only after
>you've loosened the stands near the shut valves.

>As for the intake manifold gasket, throw away the front and rear corks and
>use silicone. If your heads have ever been milled the manifold won't sit
>right and will leak, leak, leak. Even the best shops only use silicone on
>the front and rear.

>And watch your back, these things are HEAVY!

>marko in vancouver
>marko helix.net

Thanks for the input.

While I'm at it should I replace the pushrods with new ones?

If I use the old ones, is it location specific when reinstalling them. I=20
know
some parts seat to each other. I guess if I mark everything while
disassembling I can't go wrong. I guess this would be a good time
to clean the rocker arm assy. up as well.

As far as the carb goes, I was going to use a Holley. Holley
recommended a model 0-80508 750 with vacuum secondaries w/
an electric choke. After reading some comments about the Holleys
on this list I'm not sure if it is the right thing to use. Any=20
recommendations?

-Ted

68 F100 390
70 Torino GT 351C
87 Ranger
94 Mustang
92 Sentra (Wife's Car)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 12:13:00 -0500
From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Flywheel problem

- -> Man you need to get a new parts guy! Ford made 3 different 351s, the
- -> W, C and M.

Four. The 351K superceded the 351W in 1976. 351Ks used 302 heads with
1/2" Windsor type bolt holes and 302 type intake bolt pattern and water
jackets. 351 Windsors have 8 intake bolts per side and L-shaped intake
water passages; 351Ks have 6 bolts per side and square or rectangular
passages, smaller ports, and smaller valves.

Ford SVO refers to "351 Windsor" motors in general, but their "351
Windsor" crate motors don't use K heads. They use aftermarket SVO
302-type heads.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 13:52:01 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Flywheel problem

> From: "Bill Beyer"
> Subject: Re: Flywheel problem
> Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 08:30:01 -0800

> > Gary,
> > Thanks for the info. but the guy at the parts place says he never
> > heard of a 351M nor does his computer have a listing for one I
> > guess I just need to go back to the yard and get the right one for
> > a 302 is this the only one I can use is one from a 302? Are there
> > any numbers I can use for reference when they hand me the next
> > one? Thanks.

Some computerized systems call it the 5.8 or 6.6 in the years they
were used so you have to pick a year the 351W wasn't used in trucks
like 78. 5.8 is 351 and 6.6 is 400 and 7.5 is 460 etc..

I don't know the spec right off hand but the parts guy at your
"friendly" local ford dealer can look it up for you. That's what a
lot of us do before we go hunting :-)

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 13:20:21 -0500
From: shoman p3.net
Subject: hood scoop

Dear list
maybe someone has one laying around or knows of one in a salvage yard
I'm looking for a 69/70 Mustang Mach I hood scoop(the one with the
turn signals in it) if you have it email me with a price...
Joe
68 f-100
69 f-250

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 10:56:39 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: '68 390 2v to a 4v

IMHO it never hurts to put parts you're reusing back where they came from
and in some cases it's mandatory. However pushrods isn't one of those
cases. They aren't location specific in any modern motor that I've heard of
and it couldn't hurt to replace them anyway.
- ----------
> From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: '68 390 2v to a 4v
> Date: Tuesday, February 03, 1998 2:24 AM
>
> Thanks for the input.
>
> While I'm at it should I replace the pushrods with new ones?
>
> If I use the old ones, is it location specific when reinstalling them. I

> know
> some parts seat to each other. I guess if I mark everything while
> disassembling I can't go wrong. I guess this would be a good time
> to clean the rocker arm assy. up as well.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 10:10:19 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Carb Size? & airflow formula

>From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
>Subject: Carb Size?
>
>>Carb size is determined by the formula:
> Disp in Cu in X Max RPM X VE / 3456
>
>snippage
>
>I understand the 302 cu. in. and the 6000 Max RPM,
>but what is VE/3456?
Yo Ted:

The VE refers to volumetric efficiency, which is mainly the flow efficiency
of the intake tract: carb, manifold, and cylinder head ports. In the case
of this formula, VE is an "assumed" efficiency factor that reduces
effective airflow. VE of 0.95 assumes 95% volumetric efficiency.

The number 3456 is a constant that converts from cubic inches (since engine
displacement is measured in cubic inches) to cubic feet (since airflow is
measured in cubic feet per minute, CFM). The actual number of cubic inches
in a cubic foot is 12x12x12=1728. Twice that number is 3456. The ci/cf
number is doubled to account for the fact that each piston in a 4-stroke
engine draws in air on every other crankshaft revolution. As an
alternative, you could divide displacement or rpm by 2.

I have seen the formula for determining an engine's airflow expressed as
follows:

CID/2 x RPM x VE / 1728 = CFM

By dividing the engine's displacement by 2, you can use the actual ci/cf
number (1728) instead of doubling it. Maybe this is an easier way to
understand the formula. Either formula works the same way.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 12:06:10 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Re: distributor seal

I my experience the lip of any seal should always FACE the
direction of what you are trying to seal in! In this case I would
install the seal with the lip facing TOWARDS the engine.

My .02


===
John Pajak JSPajak rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

75 F100
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 15:25:46 +0000
From: "James E. Brady III"
Subject: Ignition Problem

>Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 11:51:19 -0500
>From: am14 chrysler.com
>Subject: Advance
>
>Jim writes:>>I have a '71 F100 with a 360FE and points ignition. I
>recently replaced the battery and starter. The truck starts fine when
>cold but when warmed up it seems to struggle like it is having a hard
>time turning over.
>
>I should have added in my previous post one other symptom I've had in
>relation to had to start once vehicle has reached operating temp.. I
>bought a rebuilt starter several years ago and installed on a '61
>Galaxie. It would crank just fine cold - would not turn over when
>hot. I tried everything else, then yanked the starter out and took it
>back to the parts house and swapped it for another rebuilt starter.
>This one cured the problem. (I had a hard time convincing the parts
>house operator to give me another starter, but he did finally.)
>Apparently one of the fields in the housing was bad and it would start
>on just one field when cold and compression was lower, but wouldn't
>even turn over when up to temp. Anyway it cured the problem.
>
>Azie

Azie,
I traded in my starter and that coupled with retarding the timing
eliminated my startup problem. I even ran on 87 octane today without any
pinging! Thanks.

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 15:32:10 +0000
From: "James E. Brady III"
Subject: tall rear gear

>Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 07:36:30 +0000
>From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
>Subject: Re: tall rear gear
>
>> From: bradyiii shore.intercom.net
>> Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 19:17:52 +0000
>> Subject: tall rear gear
>
>> I found a 2.75 in the junkyard for $100. I figure for a little more
>> I can get new gears without having to roll around in the mud of a
>> junkyard. The problem is that all the ring and pinions I see are
>> 3.5 and above. Know of any sources for a 2.75 rear?
>
>3.00 is the tallest "standard" anyone has now for the 9" due to lack
>of interest in the after market I'm sure. Many companies will make
>special order gears for a very unreasonable price if it's really that
>important to you. I'm running 2.75's in my PU with wide ratio C-6
>and small stock tires. What exactly are you trying to do?
>
>Vehicle weight, type? F-100
>engine?360FE
>tranny?4speed with granny first
>Tires?235/60R15
>Usage?Hauling furniture, stone, mulch...etc.
>
>Where's Murphy when
>you really need him??
>
>- -- Gary --
Gary,
I am trying to drop my highway cruising rpm. I think I am going to have
to bite the bullet and get it from the junkyard. Let me know if you know
of any aftermarker sources that might have a 2.75. Thanks.

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 11:47:07 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Re: Headers and a C-6?

- ---Shelektric aol.com wrote:
You can change the headers in the f-series with the 390. I have done it
without jacking the motor up.

>>Musta been a different brand that fit better! I had to gas-axe
(torch) my old headers apart to remove them from my 75 F100 360 2WD.
One was broken and I didn't want to jack up the motor. I might put
headers on it again if I could find a brand that fit better than the
old ones........

===
John Pajak JSPajak rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

75 F100 2WD 360/C6 (currently with exhaust manifolds)

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 11:11:58 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Body Bushings

Jim Craig wrote:
>
> I've got one to try and stump you with. I bought some poly body bushings
> for the cab. The instructions say to carefully remove the old ones by
> inverting the bolt i.e., to thread it up into the nut welded onto the bottom
> half, then drive it out from the top with a drift and a sledge. The only
> problem is the two halves mushroom together, so it is easier said than done.
> Any suggestions? BTW, the front ones can't be accessed from the top, so a
> slide hammer comes into play--not fun. I cannot simply cut them off because
> the new bushings require the washers to be completely intact.
>
> Jimbo
> 77 Supercab

Sorry, but you can't stump us "We es 2 GUD!"

The instructions are pretty much correct, but only for the rear cab
bushings. Like you say the ones in the front of the cab and under the
radiator support you will have to get from under the truck. If you have
a long (8-10 feet preferably ;-}) long steel pipe what you can do is
drill a hole tward one end about 6 to 12 inches from the end to insert
the bolt thru. Next put the bolt in the end of the bushing nut and find
someplace to brace the end against ( frame not body metal). You may
need to block the end for height you will need. If you get too much of
an angle on the bolt you will run the risk of bending it. The lots of
leverage is a little ezer than the slam hammer.

Because of the mushrooming I did need to grind them down to be able to
reassemble them.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 16:32:19 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: tall rear gear

> Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 15:32:10 +0000
> From: "James E. Brady III"
> Subject: tall rear gear

> >Vehicle weight, type? F-100
> >engine?360FE
> >tranny?4speed with granny first
> >Tires?235/60R15
> >Usage?Hauling furniture, stone, mulch...etc.
> >
> Gary,
> I am trying to drop my highway cruising rpm. I think I am going to
> have
> to bite the bullet and get it from the junkyard. Let me know if you
> know of any aftermarker sources that might have a 2.75. Thanks.

Sorry, I've been answering two different threads!!! You have 235's
he has 33's, see my confusion?

I've looked into this myself and haven't been able to find any new
2.75's anywhere. The tallest anyone makes right now is 3.00. With
the 360 I think this may be about right based on my own experience
but you will probably have to get the 2.75's from a junk yard.

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 16:34:19 -0600
From: Jean and Phillip Johnson
Subject: Re: '68 390 2v to a 4v

tfmf211 murphyfarms.com wrote:
>
> >Add to your list drain the coolant (of course), remove valve covers, and
> >remove rocker arm assemblies. You have to remove the rocker shafts b/c the
> >pushrods go thru the intake manifold. You have to unbolt the shafts
> >according to a system so that you don't bend them. Be very careful around
> >compressed valve springs, unbolt these stands in stages, and only after
> >you've loosened the stands near the shut valves.
>
> >As for the intake manifold gasket, throw away the front and rear corks and
> >use silicone. If your heads have ever been milled the manifold won't sit
> >right and will leak, leak, leak. Even the best shops only use silicone on
> >the front and rear.
>
> >And watch your back, these things are HEAVY!
>
> >marko in vancouver
> >marko helix.net
>
> Thanks for the input.
>
> While I'm at it should I replace the pushrods with new ones?
>
> If I use the old ones, is it location specific when reinstalling them. I
> know
> some parts seat to each other. I guess if I mark everything while
> disassembling I can't go wrong. I guess this would be a good time
> to clean the rocker arm assy. up as well.
>
> As far as the carb goes, I was going to use a Holley. Holley
> recommended a model 0-80508 750 with vacuum secondaries w/
> an electric choke. After reading some comments about the Holleys
> on this list I'm not sure if it is the right thing to use. Any
> recommendations?
>
> -Ted
>
> 68 F100 390
> 70 Torino GT 351C
> 87 Ranger
> 94 Mustang
> 92 Sentra (Wife's Car)
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+....


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