fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #60

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Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 03:50:26 -0700 (MST)
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Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #60
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fordtrucks61-79-digest Sunday, February 1 1998 Volume 02 : Number 060

=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Ballast resistor [OldTrux

aol.com]
Re: Rear Bearings, cleaning solvents to use? ["Bill Beyer"
Re: Mike Schwall 300 6 cylinder ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: Just a couple of flames ["Bill Beyer" ]
Carb and tranny question [GMPACHECO

aol.com]
Timing is everything [ECampb5214

aol.com]
Re: list email problems. ["Deacon" ]
RE: Psychic answers and questions [Sleddog ]
Re: list email problems. [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Re: Timing is everything [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Re: Dura-spark ????? [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Re: Dura-spark ????? ["Deacon" ]
Timing is everything [ECampb5214

aol.com]
Re: Dura-spark ????? [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Re: Timing is everything [danadeb

pacbell.net]
RE: Mags and purty trucks [Ken Payne ]
Re: list email problems. [Ken Payne ]
Ignition Question [bradyiii

shore.intercom.net]
Tall rear gear [bradyiii

shore.intercom.net]
Re: Timing is everything - Dana [ECampb5214

aol.com]
Re; spray-on bed liners ["The Zahn's" ]
Re: Ignition Question [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Re: Tall rear gear [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Fw: Dura-spark ????? ["Deacon" ]
Re: Ignition Question [Doug Neely ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 08:54:19 EST
From: OldTrux

aol.com
Subject: Re: Ballast resistor

In a message dated 98-01-30 09:35:26 EST, you write:

> I
> always thought Ford (cars & trucks) used a special resistance wire, and
> not a Ballast resistor like MOPAR did. Am I wrong on this one
> also?????????

You are right!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 07:43:57 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Rear Bearings, cleaning solvents to use?

> I'm all ears now for the suggestions
> which meet these criteria :-) Please note where I put the main
> emphasis :-)
>
>
> Where's Murphy when
> you really need him??
>
> -- Gary --

Gunk sells a product which comes in quart or gallon containers (sorry I'm
just not up to running out to that garage to get the name right now ;-),
but it even has a little basket in it so that you can immerse the parts in
it. It also has a resealable lid so that it can be reused many times. So
far I have used it on carbs & bearings/hubs and it has done a good job on
both. It seems to be a diluted version of the really toxic stuff that the
pros use, at least that's what it smells like, so I wouldn't leave aluminum
in it for a long time. I bought it at the local auto supply over a year ago
and it's still working fine.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 08:38:05 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Mike Schwall 300 6 cylinder

- ----------
> From: Stu Varner
> To: fordtrucks61-79

ListService.net
> Subject: Mike Schwall 300 6 cylinder

> By the way, I know of some roundy round guys near here who have some
really
> hopped up inline 300 6 bangers they run that produce gobbs of torque
kicking
> everything it its way into the weeds!

Yeah but the rules also allow them to run a lighter car when they run a six
banger. Sorry, I'm with the guy on the old juice commercial...

{Hitting myself in the head} "Wow...I coulda' had a V8!"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 08:44:43 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Just a couple of flames

- ----------
> From: marko maryniak
> To: fordtrucks61-79

ListService.net
> Subject: Re: Just a couple of flames
> Date: Wednesday, January 28, 1998 11:02 AM

> I'm sure you all have similar goofy things in your past, like the time I
> blew up a $20,000 fairway mower by forgetting to add motor oil, or when I
> covered my dad's '51 pontiac with dish soap to wash it and filled the
garage
> to the WINDOWS with suds, etc. Not to mention the number of times I took
> things apart on his cars only to be unable to put them back together.

Umm...I hate to tell you this marko but I ain't NEVER done NUTHIN' like
that! ;-)

Bill (from the OTHER Vancouver)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 11:51:08 EST
From: GMPACHECO

aol.com
Subject: Carb and tranny question

Ok I've got 2 questions, just want to know what everybody thinks...

I have a F-100 72' it has a 302 with a 3 speed on the column.. anyway I want
to put a 4 barrel on it for more umphhh. Will a Elderbrock 600 Carb and
Manifold be too much for this engine? That's 1

Next what about a 4 speed, should I hit the yards or look in the paper or
check with a trans shop ? Also what trans would you recommend I put in it ?

Sorry that's 3... I fudged..

Thanks in advance.

Mike in Seattle...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 11:56:24 EST
From: ECampb5214

aol.com
Subject: Timing is everything

Hi all

I adjusted my timimng and got rid of a lot of hesitation, but now my truck is
like hard to start. If someone could explain why, I would be very happy

Thanks
Ethan

76 250 360ci

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 11:55:18 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: list email problems.

From: Sleddog
>i have been getting many replies on the list, before i get the original
>post. does anyone else have this problem? it really gets strange trying
>to follow a thread this way. thanks.

I knew that group from the "Psychic Hotline" was going to be trouble!

Hey, Come on Guys! Wait till the questions are asked before you answer, OK!

Sorry Sleddog. Their just showing off! They know it bothers people. After
all, their "Psychics"!

Deacon Blues deconblu

gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 15:41:25 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Psychic answers and questions

well, if they are so good, then why haven't they answered the questions i
have been asking by mental telepathy?

will the big valves hit my cylinder or pistons?
will i need to run race gas with my higher comp ratio?
why do i have only rear brakes?
off what vehicle can i find another power stereing pump that i do not have
to have another $40 custom pressure line made up to fit as my PS only works
10% of the time?
will my carb feed the motor with my new heads and intake and "little"
rollercam?
will i need to upgrade my fuelpump and lines to feed this hungry beast?
will my 1/2 ton drivetrain hold up to trying to yank the sled down the
track?
do i have to disassemble the tranny to replace the 2nd gear band that i
wore out?
how do i get more belt on the water pump pulley to keep this beast cool, as
it appears to be slipping?
should i run a restrictor plate or a thermostat?
will my basically stock bottom end hold up to 6500 rpm and (according to
the desktop dyno) over 700 HP and 650 lbs ft torque?
will i need to change gears or complete axles (to dana 60, and 80)
if i change rears, should i use my dana 80 or get a corporate 14 bolt with
the bigger gear set?
should i use a rear sump pan so i can drop the front end for better weight
control?
will i still be allowed to run "stock" classes or will they bump me up to
modified?
will my smaller than exhuast port headers work or do i need to make custom
headers?
can i find any sponsors if i show i can win more?
can i stop asking questions and get back to work?
is this email annoying anyone yet?
is anyone even reading it?

answers at the end of this message.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Deacon[SMTP:deconblu

gte.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 1998 2:55 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79

ListService.net
Subject: Re: list email problems.

From: Sleddog
>i have been getting many replies on the list, before i get the original
>post. does anyone else have this problem? it really gets strange trying
>to follow a thread this way. thanks.

I knew that group from the "Psychic Hotline" was going to be trouble!

Hey, Come on Guys! Wait till the questions are asked before you answer, OK!

Sorry Sleddog. Their just showing off! They know it bothers people. After
all, their "Psychics"!

Deacon Blues deconblu

listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 12:00:29 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: list email problems.

If only there was a backword font!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 12:36:44 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Timing is everything

Hard to start: meaning hard to crank or crank for a long time before it fires?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 12:19:13 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Dura-spark ?????

Brian wrote:
>
> OK...I'm really getting brain dead now!! Here's a twist. I put my test
> light clip on a good ground. I then test both sides of the coil for
> power (test light should glow) I get a light on both sides of the coil
> ?? Is this right ?? I think Not.

Yes it is right!

Assumption #1 the power wire that goes to your coil "+" comes from the key
switch and has 12V in the run position, then goes through the ballast resister
then to the coil "+" terminal.

Assumption #2 the key is in the "run" position.

Then yes there would be 12V to the "+" and "-" side of the coil.

If you ground the "-" side of the coil ( don't do it for more then a couple of
minutes ) and recheck the voltage at the "+" terminal you should have 6-8V.

On an earlier post you said that you had the red wire that powers the module
attached to the starter solenoid.
That's the wrong place. it should be hooked to the key switch "run" terminal or
a suitable 12V source that is only live when the key is in the "run" position.

> I think its time to stop for today, New charger is freshing up the
> battery for a new try tommorrow.
>
> ANYBODY CLOSE TO MINNEAPOLIS/ST PAUL WITH KNOWLEDGE OF THIS IGNITION
> STUFF !!!!
>

Lets see if I left California now and drove non stop I could be there in a
couple of days or so ;)

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 13:12:49 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Dura-spark ?????

>On an earlier post you said that you had the red wire that powers the
module
>attached to the starter solenoid.
>That's the wrong place. it should be hooked to the key switch "run"
terminal or
>a suitable 12V source that is only live when the key is in the "run"
position.

One of the wires going to the starter solenoid is to the key switch "run"
terminal. It's the one I use.

Deacon Blues deconblu

aol.com
Subject: Timing is everything

It well start like its a low amp problem, but it'll start up in about 3-4
seconds. It used to start like my dads FI 4 cyl. in the mustang, but now it
starts up like it needs a new battery (its new), But always if not on the
first time, on the second time around. Maybe i have nothing to worry about,
and am just wasting my time but i dont want to be left in the middle of no
wear in the 6 degree cold.

dun'ca shay y'all
Ethan

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 16:04:20 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Dura-spark ?????

danadeb

pacbell.net wrote:
>
> Brian wrote:
> >
> > OK...I'm really getting brain dead now!! Here's a twist. I put my test
> > light clip on a good ground. I then test both sides of the coil for
> > power (test light should glow) I get a light on both sides of the coil
> > ?? Is this right ?? I think Not.
>
> Yes it is right!
>
> Assumption #1 the power wire that goes to your coil "+" comes from the key
> switch and has 12V in the run position, then goes through the ballast resister
> then to the coil "+" terminal.
>
> Assumption #2 the key is in the "run" position.
>
> Then yes there would be 12V to the "+" and "-" side of the coil.
>
> If you ground the "-" side of the coil ( don't do it for more then a couple of
> minutes ) and recheck the voltage at the "+" terminal you should have 6-8V.
>
> On an earlier post you said that you had the red wire that powers the module
> attached to the starter solenoid.
> That's the wrong place. it should be hooked to the key switch "run" terminal or
> a suitable 12V source that is only live when the key is in the "run" position.

- -------Correction-------

I wrote:

> That's the wrong place. it should be hooked to the key switch "run" terminal or
> a suitable 12V source that is only live when the key is in the "run" position.

I should have written:

> That's the wrong place. it should be hooked to the key switch "run" terminal or
> a suitable 12V source that is only live when the key is in the "run" AND "start" position.

- --------------------------

>
> > I think its time to stop for today, New charger is freshing up the
> > battery for a new try tommorrow.
> >
> > ANYBODY CLOSE TO MINNEAPOLIS/ST PAUL WITH KNOWLEDGE OF THIS IGNITION
> > STUFF !!!!
> >
>
> Lets see if I left California now and drove non stop I could be there in a
> couple of days or so ;)
>
> Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 16:10:26 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Timing is everything

ECampb5214

aol.com wrote:
>
> It well start like its a low amp problem, but it'll start up in about 3-4
> seconds. It used to start like my dads FI 4 cyl. in the mustang, but now it
> starts up like it needs a new battery (its new), But always if not on the
> first time, on the second time around. Maybe i have nothing to worry about,
> and am just wasting my time but i dont want to be left in the middle of no
> wear in the 6 degree cold.
>
> dun'ca shay y'all
> Ethan

The reason I asked is that it sounds like the initial timing is way to much.

If you advanced the timing far enough to fix a hesitation problem then that
might be causing the hard cranking.

Try putting the advance back to 6-12 deg and see how it cranks.

If it cranks ok then you might need to adjust / replace the vacuum advance
diaphragm to allow for faster advance.

Let me know!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 20:20:53 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: RE: Mags and purty trucks

>
>John I think we do have a FAQ. Some of our members write articles
>with input from the list on such things as rear disk brake upgrades
>etc.. We have on on the BigBronco list too :-)
>
>
>Where's Murphy when
>you really need him??
>
>-- Gary --

We have a FAQ, but it mainly covers list use questions, not truck
questions. However, we are slowly building up a collection of
articles on the web page. So far there are three articles and
soon to be a fourth. Anyone is welcome to write one, so long as
you give it to a few other members to proof-read.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 20:22:27 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: list email problems.

At 04:50 PM 1/30/98 -0500, you wrote:
>i have been getting many replies on the list, before i get the original
>post. does anyone else have this problem? it really gets strange trying
>to follow a thread this way. thanks.
>
>sleddog
>

Our list server is sequential. Its probably your provider. I
get the list through 3 different addresses and all of them get
them in order.

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 23:13:35 +0000
From: bradyiii

shore.intercom.net
Subject: Ignition Question

I have a '71 F100 with a 360FE and points ignition. I recently
replaced the battery and starter. The truck starts fine when cold
but when warmed up it seems to struggle like it is having a hard time
turning over. I have two questions: 1) Is this indicative of an
ignition problem? 2) Eventually I will upgrade to an electronic
ignition but which would be better the Duraspark II or the
aftermarket Ignitor? I am concerned that the parts pulled from the
junkyard may be shot and I could end up costing myself more by having
to replace most everything. Hope someone can help.

Jim Brady

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 23:28:47 +0000
From: bradyiii

shore.intercom.net
Subject: Tall rear gear

One more question: does anybody know where I can get a 2.75 rear
gear for the for 9inch? Does Ford make and even taller gear?
Thanks.

Jim Brady

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 23:37:12 EST
From: ECampb5214

aol.com
Subject: Re: Timing is everything - Dana

that sounds like it might be it, but i adjusted it about 8 degrees in the
first place. So im not going to set it back. I'm also trying to sell it, and
its such a small problem that i can live with it. Thanks for you opion.
Ethan

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 21:24:28 -0800
From: "The Zahn's"
Subject: Re; spray-on bed liners

Hi Perry,
I have a 71 F350 with a service body. About 2 years ago I sprayed the
bed with a product called Zolatone. It comes in many colors and has a
orange peel like texture. It's a two stage spray job. first you apply it
like regular paint but then go back over it all under low pressure which
causes the paint to splatter on leaving the texture. I use my truck for
work and so far it's been a lot better than if I had used automotive paint.
It has scratched but it takes a lot of abuse. I had a problem with some
rust coming through after I first applied it and the company sent me enough
replacement product to repair the problem.
My uncle has a Rhino Coating business and all of his trucks look great.
It's like spraying on 1/4 inch of rubber inside of your bed. Of course I
already sprayed my bed before I found out he started this business. I
think that my camper wouldn't fit anymore if I used Rhino Coating because
it just barely fits now with just paint. Good luck.
FredZ

Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 21:52:47 -0500
From: perryfarrell

juno.com
Subject: Spray-on bed liners

Has anyone had any experience with these spray-on bed liners? Supposedly,
they keep your bed from scratching up, and I think they're supposed to be
somewhat water-proof. I wanted to get rid of all the rust in my bed
(there's not too much) or maybe possibly even replace the whole bed
itself. Whatever I do, I'd like to protect the bed in some way, and I was
thinking about trying this. Anyone use it before? I am also wondering how
easy it is to apply. I'd rather not use a plastic molded bed liner cause
they're kind of ugly. I am also wondering if I need a cover if I wanna
keep the rain out. I mean, if I use this spray-on stuff and it rains,
it's not gonna hurt the bed or anything, right? If so, then I'd have to
get like a tonneau cover (the fiberglass ones aren't flexible enough...
If I got something big, I want it to fit).I don't really want a tonneau
cover, though. Any thoughts on this subject are appreciated. BTW, I am
planning on getting my truck repainted. I was thinking of a paint scheme,
and I thought it'd be cool to have half black and half white. On the
black side, the strip on the side and the bumpers (well, half) would be
white, and on the other side, vice versa. But I don't think I want half
of it white... so I was thinking of possibly using different colors
(black and red, black and blue, blue and red...) or an entirely different
scheme... dunno. Need some thoughts. Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 21:51:05 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Ignition Question

What is your initial timing?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 21:52:54 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Tall rear gear

try the wrecking yards.

2.50 maybe??????

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 21:48:45 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Fw: Dura-spark ?????

I sent Brian a scan of the ignition system from my Haynes manual (not
included, no picture post) and my opinion of what he needs to do. He replied
with this message and I am FWDing it to the list at his request. It is
considered rude to FWD personal messages to the list unless the person who
sent the original message gives consent. So I repeat I am FWDing it to the
list at his request. So please, No Flames! Why? OK, I'll repeat it one more
time "I am FWDing it to the list at his request." End Disclamer" like It
will do any good. :)

Deacon Blues deconblu

gte.net
>> ================================================
>> Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/
>>
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>
> I'm more than ready....to blow up the thing !!! Spent the last 6 hours
>or so trouble shooting. I've still have NO spark. I've checked the
>resistance in evry wire in the truck. I've hooked up all possible
>combos' of wires. Here's what I've come up with.
> Red wire fom module is connected to the ignition switch before the
>ballast resistor wire.
> White wire goes to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid.
>

Sorry, IMHO this wire is optional at this point. It makes it difficult
starting from a static time when this wire will auto retard.

>
> I've run a wire from the end of the ballast resistor wire to the "+"
>side of the coil.
> I've run a wire from the "I" side of the solenoid to the "+" side of
>the coil.
>

This is where I say the harness has already done this. The resistor wire is
in the harness. The red wire from the ignition module ties into the wire the
goes to the " I " post of the starter relay. Not the coil.

>
> I have no spark from the coil wire to a ground.
>
> I have no spark from the plug wires.
>
> I've checked the resistance from the battery side of the coil to the
>Tach side of the coil and get zero. ( according to the trouble shooting
>the coil is bad)
>
> I've taken the coil from my son's '78 F150 and still nothing.
>
> I've taken my module out and hook it up in my son's truck and it
>started right up.
>
> I've tested all the wires from the harness to the coil and distributor
>and have zero resistance,
>
> I've tested from the battery side of the coil to the output and get....

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