fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #54

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Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 21:45:07 -0700 (MST)
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fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, January 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 054

=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: 300 6 cyl [Tyler Wilkins ]
Re: Manual tranny for 351M [Kurt Albershardt ]
Re: 1969 f350 i-6 300 [Kurt Albershardt ]
Re: FE conversion. long rods [Kurt Albershardt ]
Re: Oil pan P/N [marko

helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: FMX/C5 ?? [DBrents105

aol.com]
Re: Duraspark II [marko

helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: suicide doors ["Deacon" ]
Re: suicide doors [Don Grossman ]
ignition timing [DC Beatty ]
Re: Upgrades, where is the line drawn [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Re: A couple of questions about my truck [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Re: suicide doors ["Michael Redden" ]
Ballast resistor [Brian ]
Re: Varsol [danadeb

pacbell.net]
New Ford Transmissions [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Re: blue oval and url request [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Re: VINs ["Daniel H. Jenkins" ]
Re: Duraspark II [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Re: Upgrades, where is the line drawn ["Deacon" ]
Re: Duraspark II [Don Grossman ]
Re: Upgrades, where is the line drawn [A64F100

aol.com]
New V-10, Diesel, msc. [Jim Henjum ]
Re: Duraspark II [danadeb

pacbell.net]
66 F100 interior parts [Trs2000

aol.com]
Timing [ECampb5214

aol.com]
Re: New V-10, Diesel, msc. [ECampb5214

aol.com]
long rods and their effect on piston speed. [Sleddog ]
Re: Oil pan P/N [John MacNamara ]
Re: Upgrades, where is the line drawn ["Deacon" ]
Re: Duraspark II [Don Grossman ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 15:08:58 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: 300 6 cyl

> Gang,
>
> Just curious; what kind of mileage do you guts get running
> the 300 6cyl. in a full size truck?

A good buddy of mine has a '78 F-100 w/ a 300 and a 4-speed. He gets 23
MPG!!!!!!! I'm a little envious but I prefer the power.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 13:08:21 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: Manual tranny for 351M

At 03:12 PM 1/28/98 +0000, Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>Now I hear there is a new, heavier duty version in the new
>fords which may be a better choice. They run around $1600 new.
>

That would be the NV-5600. HUGE case, much bigger than a 435.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 13:48:57 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: 1969 f350 i-6 300

At 08:57 PM 1/28/98 -0800, sdelanty

sonic.net wrote:
>
> Bruce, sounds like You need a turbo! About 8 lbs of boost would
> really make the 300 pull hard. And sixes sound so cool!
> The 300/6 is layed out perfect for an easy turbo conversion...
>

It has non-crossflow heads which does make the plumbing easy. It also has
two other characteristics ideal for positive pressure: Low compression and
an outrageously over-engineered bottom end.

Ak Miller Turbocharging has done quite a few of these. I've heard that the
300I-6 is his favorite motor to turbo.

They're at 562-949-2548

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 14:20:07 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: FE conversion. long rods

At 09:16 AM 1/28/98 +0000, Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
>the skirt for less wear and friction (theoretically) but I think
>there was another reason they did it, can't remember now. Seems like
>it has an effect on the piston speed which is the main advantage so
>allows for higher revs. I think that was it.
>

Right. Changes the curve and probably the area under the curve.

>As to compression, I can't see how this would have much impact on the
>flow or combustion characteristics so wouldn't expect any miricles
>here?? If you used certain stock compression height pistions it
>could increas compression but wouldn't help the burn rate so don't
>see any correlation with using low octane gas??

Depending on the valve timing, it could change the cylinder pressures.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 15:35:33 -0800
From: marko

helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Oil pan P/N

>You asked Marko for oil pan P/N. I don't remember the P/N being
>stamped on the pan
>
>>>Okay, it won't be till this weekend cause I'll be pulling the pan on
> Saturday.
>
>Azie

It's ok Azie, I'll just phone the poor parts guy I terrorize at Totem
Mercury once in awhile and make him squint at the yellow, cracked microfiche
again. Now was that an 8 or a 6? Or maybe a 3?

marko 8^0

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 18:44:14 EST
From: DBrents105

aol.com
Subject: Re: FMX/C5 ??

The C5 is a slightly modified version of the C4 (basically the same
transmission). The FMX has a cast iron case and is quite different. It also
has a removable Bell Housing and was used on a lot of 352 Ford applications as
well as 351C/W and 351M/400 engines. It was the factory automatic in 69/70
Mustangs with the 351C engine. Bell Housings are available for both small
block and big block. The C6 came in two versions a big block version used on
FE series and 385 series engines and a small block version which could be used
on all small block V8 and I6(240/300) engines. C6 is my favorite.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 15:53:22 -0800
From: marko

helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Duraspark II

>> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 13:23:16 -0500
>> From: Brian
>> Subject: Re: Duraspark II
>
>> identify except for a small round cylinder shaped thing with a
>> single wire next to the voltage regulator. I think this is some kind
>> of condensor type unit. Does the ballast resistor possibly attach to
>> the alternator ?? or should this be a item that stands alone ??
>

Here's how you find your ballast resistor:

There is a wiring bundle of 2 or 3 wires from the oil sender, temp sender,
and coil I think (well, follow the wire from the coil terminal that doesn't
connect to the distributor) back to the firewall along the driver's side
valve cover. Roughly just inside (toward the center) of the master cylinder
will be a small connector, flattish, with two wires in and out, possibly
three on one side, which is a dogleg-shape when taken apart, and each end
has one female and one male plug.

If you use a tester on these wires you can easily determine which is the
resistor wire as it ends at the connector from the firewall and will have 6
or so volts at it with the ignition on.

That round cylindrical object is your engine's electromagnetic sonic
interference emissions management system, a.k.a. the radio noise condensor.
It stops you from getting Cessna airplane type noises in your radio when the
engine is running.

Unlike your D*dge, which has a small white ceramic brick mounted on the
firewall with a coily wire inside, looking much like a heating element from
a toaster or baseboard heater or (get this Azie I AM old) an electric
fireplace, your Ford has just ensured that the wire from the ignition switch
to the above-mentioned Dogleg Connector has some resistance in it over its
foot-or-so length. If I knew how much current the ignition drew, I could
even compute the resistance in ohms for you, but I don't.

marko

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 16:05:34 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: suicide doors

>Yeah, at first I thought "All I have to do is flip the hinges." But I got
>to thinking, about how the edges were and everything and how they'd have
>to move properly and I started to think, "This is definitely harder to do
>than just flipping hinges." Well, I'll take a look at that article, see
>how it's done, and maybe make it a long-term "if I get around to it"-type
>project... I believe one can do anything with the proper tools, and a
>good memory (in case one decides they can't do it after all and has to
>put the darn thing back together) :)

I got the article sent. Sorry about the size. To give it some brakes I
sent it in 5 messages with 2 attachments per message. Each message is 300KB.
I tried to resize the jpg file but then you couldn't read it. Let me know if
there is any problem with them.
Wait till you see what it takes to do this. According to the article the
danger that can happen if not done right is the door coming open driving
down the road. I could see that shaking a person up. :)
The article is from the Aug '97 issue of Ford Truckin' and the work is
being done to a '56 F100. If anyone wants to see the article and you don't
have access to this issue of Ford Truckin' and you don't mind the size send
me e-mail not the list. Not to infringe on copyrights, the article is copied
in it's entirety and Ford Truckin' mag. is credited for the article.

Deacon Blues deconblu

juno.com wrote:
>
>
> hinges? How
>
>
> Yeah, at first I thought "All I have to do is flip the hinges." But I got
> to thinking, about how the edges were and everything and how they'd have
> to move properly and I started to think, "This is definitely harder to do
> than just flipping hinges." Well, I'll take a look at that article, see
> how it's done, and maybe make it a long-term "if I get around to it"-type
> project... I believe one can do anything with the proper tools, and a
> good memory (in case one decides they can't do it after all and has to
> put the darn thing back together) :)

Really what you are going to need is a donor truck. This way you can
cut out the hinge buckets and measure and mark. The part of the cab
behind the buckets will need some reenforcement and the old hindge
buckets will need to be covered over on your truck. The door might need
a little work where the hinges will attach.

then there is flipping the latch pieces...

Lots of work.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

pacific.net

63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 20:10:44 -0500
From: DC Beatty
Subject: ignition timing

Greetings list: =

I remember from high school that for every 1000 feet above sea level you
need to advance your ignition timing X number of degrees. Does anybody kn=
ow
this formula? =

Thanks for any help,

DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 18:07:01 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Upgrades, where is the line drawn

Deacon wrote:

> Time to get stupid! Where is the line drawn for upgrading a truck before
> it's registration is no longer valid? Reading about marko's truck and
> countless others that change engines, rearends, frontends, transmissions and
> frames. I have told myself there is no way I can change enough parts that I
> would have a 1 ton '73 F100. Why would I even think of such foolishness? '73
> is smog exempt in California, Blood letting ambulance chasing, BS insurance
> is cheaper and it's bugging the hell out of me why I can't do it. If we have
> any official smog nazi's on our list that can answer this question I Dana
> would appreciate your input. If there aren't any, sorry Dana. :)

Just for the record: I called the California Bureau of Automotive Repair's Smog
people on two separate occasions, the first time they said my 70 with 74 engine
was exempt the second time they said it was not???

The second time they said that because it had a Referee sticker, Sacramento
would see it as a 74 for smog purposes. The final word was "wait till next year
to know for sure" ! Great :-(

> If the answer is I would have trouble selling it, so what! I'm not
> planning on ever selling it. I could part it out for more than I have in it
> if I wanted rid of it. The two trucks are so much alike I could pull the
> drivers door off the F100 paint it white and put it on the F350 and change
> the only vin # anyone would look at. The '73's registration is current so
> there's no problems there.
> Please stop me from thinking about this before my last bit of sanity
> slips through my fingers, leaving me alone in a padded room with nothing to
> do all day but post nonsense like this to the list. Thanks!

How is this for a thought: lets say you have a 72 F100. It is in a wreck that
totals the left door, the left side of the frame, and the left side of the cab,
you buy a replacement cab ( It has the plastic decal from an
69 F350), the door ( it has the metal tag of 70 F250 ) and the frame ( it has
the VIN from a 71 F100 ) now what do you have?

My thought is remove the door tag from your current door and pop rivet it to
your current door. Scrape the plastic door post one off or use solvent to make
the numbers unreadable and finally grind off the frame numbers and punch the
original VIN number in its place.

OR----

I think you can go to the DMV and they have forms or such to fill out that will
end up keeping track of the VIN number stuff for you. ( NOT SURE )

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 18:34:41 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: A couple of questions about my truck

> From: Perry Farrell
>
> > About suicide doors: is
> >that just where the doors open backwards (the hinge is on the side
> >facing the bed, instead of the engine side)? If so, would it be possible
> >to convert my doors like that (I'm sure everybody knows it's a '77 F100
> >Custom)? I think suicide doors (or at least my impressions of what they
> >are exactly) would be a nice little novelty-type thing to do to my
> >truck,
>

I saw an article in Truckn' Magazine about 10 years ago that went through the
whole process. They cut parts of the door post where the hinges are and the part
where the strike is and swapped them front to back. Same on the door. I looks
COOL but wow what a project!!!!

>
> > Also, shaving the door handles: what exactly does
> >this... do? Like, what does that mean? And what does it entail? I really
> >thank everyone who answered my questions truthfully, and I hope I get
> >some more straight answers.
>

There is a spring loaded button on alot of newer cars that pops the door open a
tad. I think an 89 Aerostar has them Take a look. In the event the battery goes
dead you could put in a secret pull cord that would unlatch the door or have an
external set of contacts somewhere that jumper cables could go to.

>From your questions it sounds like you are building a show truck rather then a
daily driver? Is this the case?

Also I had a thought about the woofers. Mount them in the engine compartment in
a water tight metal box then have only a 4 inch diameter, thick plastic or other
suitable pipe run from the metal box through the fire wall.

( Just a note from an old {well not too old} fart: when you pull up to an
intersection with the base booming turn it down a little so others don't have to
feel it too :-) It's sort of like "Excuse me, Please And Thank you", its the
good manners most of us forget sometimes ) ( Well maybe not Deacon ;) )

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 21:42:43 -0500
From: "Michael Redden"
Subject: Re: suicide doors

Suicide doors (don't call 'em that for nothing)

Make sure they stay shut. My brother (3 years old at the time) got sucked
out of the back seat at about 60 mph when these doors flew open on a Hudson
our family had at the time. He lived, but they picked alot of cactus spines
& gravel out of his hide (TX)!
My dad had special bolts put on the doors after that...

Have fun!

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 20:41:31 -0500
From: Brian
Subject: Ballast resistor

Ok...since all the wiring under my hood was gone when I bought the
truck it appears that the ballast resistor is gone. Is it simply a wire
?
Next question...I've located a flat plug that goes through the firewall
with 3 legs. I tested these wires for "power" with the key switch on and
found 2 to be "hot". I need to find my meter to check the voltage of
them to see what the output is. BUT, if they both produce 12 volts...Can
I connect a ballast resistor to one of them and use this for the
duraspark ???

Boy were getting close....did turn the key over tonight for the first
time and engine did crank over....so far so good !! Maybe if I can get
this ignition figured out I can start the beast this weekend and see if
it really works !!

Thanks again for all your support

Brian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 18:53:15 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Varsol

>
> > From: "Deacon"
> > Subject: Re: Varsol
> > Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 12:09:26 -0800
>
> > that may panic. I don't panic. I was on fire when I was 7 years old
> > and I panicked. Paid a painful price for it. Now I put out the fire.
> > I look at it this way, Using paper twigs and dry wood I consider
> > myself lucky if I get my fireplace going on my first try. I would
> > really need to mess up getting the house lit without trying! :)
>

Did I miss something or is Deacon holding something back from us!

Do tell Deacon!!!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 19:03:30 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: New Ford Transmissions

Check out this site

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ford.com/us/motorsport/2-6tech.html

regarding Fords E4OD Trans.

Maybe there is a trans, other then a C6, that can stand up to a 460!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 19:05:55 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: blue oval and url request

Try WWW.ford.com

There may be copyright issues so check with them first before you take them

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 19:03:34 -0800 (PST)
From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
Subject: Re: VINs

I don't know about your neck of the woods, but here in Nevada the
DMV will actually swap the VIN numbers of the old door to the new door!
They do it for a fee, but it is completely legit. You might try calling
the DMV in your area. Of course, you could wind up having to stand in
line for a couple of years. :)

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel H. JenkinsFood for thought: John Milton
djenkins

honors.unr.eduwrote _Paradise_Lost_; When his
Honors Programwife died he wrote _Paradise_
University of Nevada, Reno_Regained_...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 19:12:48 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Duraspark II

I have said it before and I will say it again.

Go to this site go directly to this site!

Don't even ask anyone's opinion till you have seen this site!!!!!

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/duraspark.html

Not that I don't want to help but there is so much misinformation on the subject
that it is like a fish story it just keeps getting worse and worse!!!

Flame suit ready!!!

Dana

PS if you don't have a browser then let me know and I will E-Mail the site to
you piece by piece!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 19:28:03 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Upgrades, where is the line drawn

>The second time they said that because it had a Referee sticker, Sacramento
>would see it as a 74 for smog purposes. The final word was "wait till next
year
>to know for sure" ! Great :-(

Well Dana I have good news for you. Here's the law;

Are any cars exempt?
Vehicles with two-cycle engines, engines under 50 cubic inch displacement
and vehicles powered by diesel fuel or electricity are exempt. As of January
1, 1998, all 1973 and older vehicles will not be required to get a smog
inspection under any circumstances.

Where did I find this. I'm not going to tell you. I'm going to hide the URL
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.smogcheck.org/000010.htm
and not tell you where it is until you give me some good news.

But what if my '73 or older Bla bla bla... As of January 1, 1998, all 1973
and older vehicles will not be required to get a smog inspection under any
circumstances.

but what blablabla... under any circumstances.

bu... under any circumstances. :) There now, you happy!

Deacon Blues deconblu

gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 19:34:35 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Duraspark II

Hold on here a minute,

Which two wires are we talking about here the two from the coil or the
two out of the ignition module?

The coil wire gets the resisted wire. This should be the same wire that
would power the coil for the 64. This was also the same for 63. There
is a resistance wire just after the ignition switch. It should be a
slightly larger wire. Mine is pink. No it is not a fuseable link so I
will just defuse that right now ;)

If you are talking about the power for the ignition module it should be
12v constant. You can tap right into the wire that comes off the
ignition switch but before the resistance wire.

The other wire goes to the I side of the starter relay. It could go
anywhere there is only power during starting only.

Which box do you have? If it is the early box it will be like this

red+blue = run power
blue = start wire

later box

red+blue = run power
white = start wire.

The funny thing is that after 78 I see a full 12V going to the coil?

Whats up with that
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

aol.com
Subject: Re: Upgrades, where is the line drawn

In a message dated 98-01-29 22:48:17 EST, you write:

Vehicles with two-cycle engines, engines under 50 cubic inch displacement
and vehicles powered by diesel fuel or electricity are exempt. As of January
1, 1998, all 1973 and older vehicles will not be required to get a smog
inspection under any circumstances.
>>

Another interesting thing I read is, That good 'ol Pete Wilson is going to
sign (hopefully) a law that states, if any vehicle passes the emissions test,
it will pass. It doesn't need to pass the visual inspection. This makes me
wish I would've kept my 75 f-100 390 4x4. The darn thing passed emissions, but
they kept failing it because there was no smog pump.

Later,
Scott L

*Keep It Ford Blue*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 22:05:28 -0600
From: Jim Henjum
Subject: New V-10, Diesel, msc.

For the V-10, I hear that its peaks are at 275 hp. and 410 lbs. of
torque. I think one of the reasons it has a smaller displacement is to
meet new CURB (or something like that) regulations. I think they
basically say what an engine has to get for rated milage. (I also heard
on the internet that ch*vy's new big-block was around 6.0 L with the 454
only offered in heavy-duty models, don't know this for sure though.) For
the V-10 as well as the Powerstroke there will be a new 6 spd. manual
(granny low and 1 overdrive) offered. Speaking of the Powerstroke, it is
supposed to get boosted to 500 lbs. of torque for the '99s. I saw a good
write-up on the '99s in the latest Four Wheeler mag. Thanks for your
time!

Ross Henjum
Sunburg, MN

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 20:12:09 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Duraspark II

Don Grossman wrote:
>
> Hold on here a minute,

THANK YOU DON!!!!!!!!!!!

>
> Which two wires are we talking about here the two from the coil or the
> two out of the ignition module?
>
> The coil wire gets the resisted wire. This should be the same wire that
> would power the coil for the 64. This was also the same for 63. There
> is a resistance wire just after the ignition switch. It should be a
> slightly larger wire. Mine is pink. No it is not a fuseable link so I
> will just defuse that right now ;)

Correct!!!!!!!

>
> If you are talking about the power for the ignition module it should be
> 12v constant. You can tap right into the wire that comes off the
> ignition switch but before the resistance wire.

YES!!!!!!!!!

>
> The other wire goes to the I side of the starter relay. It could go
> anywhere there is only power during starting only.

Be careful here the.

The "I" side of the starter relay has voltage from 2 sources. one is the
ignition switch ( 12V ) the other is from the ballast resister. ( 6-8V ) Since
the "I" side wire bypasses the ballast resister it has to be attached between
the ballast resister and the coil thus it has some voltage as long as the kay is
in the start or run positions. The proper place is to put the white wire is on
the "s" terminal which supplies 12V only when the key is in the Start position.

get out the volt meter and check. I goofed on mine and had to rewire that part
of it for proper operation.

>
> Which box do you have? If it is the early box it will be like this
>
> red+blue = run power
> blue = start wire
>
> later box
>

Blue strain relief I believe:

> red+blue = run power
> white = start wire.

Some boxes don't have the blue wire.

>
> The funny thing is that after 78 I see a full 12V going to the coil?
>
> Whats up with that

The duraspark I did it this way also. ( for higher coil output ) but the
electronics in the box were designed to keep the coil from frying. Might be a
unique coil too!!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 23:16:22 EST
From: Trs2000

aol.com
Subject: 66 F100 interior parts

Does anybody know a good source for interior parts?
I'm looking for a dash pad, door panels, a rubber or vinyl mat for the floor,
and arm rests for the doors.

Thanks in advance

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 23:21:04 EST
From: ECampb5214

aol.com
Subject: Timing

Hi everyone

To adjust timing, I can mearly unbolt the bolt at the bottom of my
distributor, and turn clock wise to advance, right?

Thanks
Ethan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 23:27:19 EST
From: ECampb5214

aol.com
Subject: Re: New V-10, Diesel, msc.

Thats more 10 ft. lbs. torque then dodge unsure bought the hp though.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 23:36:27 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: long rods and their effect on piston speed.

there has been alot of talk about the long rods. i have an EXCEL
spreadsheet (version 6) that shows the comparison between 2 engines given
different rod lengths, stroke, or rpms.

it calculates the piston velocity and acceleration at 10 degree increments.

using this, it shows that a longer rod decreases piston velocity near TDC
and increases it near BDC with the same trend in piston acceleration.

a longer rod therefore may allow higher rpms, and also change the cylinder
filling/emptying rates for given valve timing events. these two aspects
are arguable, but it also for sure reduces sideloading friction against the
cyl wall.

if anyone wants a copy of the spreadsheet, email me direct with "long rod
spreadsheet" as the subject and i shall email you a copy.

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 20:33:16 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Oil pan P/N

marko maryniak wrote:
>
> >You asked Marko for oil pan P/N. I don't remember the P/N being
> >stamped on the pan
> >
> >>>Okay, it won't be till this weekend cause I'll be pulling the pan on
> > Saturday.
> >
> >Azie
>
> It's ok Azie, I'll just phone the poor parts guy I terrorize at Totem
> Mercury once in awhile and make him squint at the yellow, cracked microfiche
> again. Now was that an 8 or a 6? Or maybe a 3?
>
> Marko: You may not need to call the dealer. I sent the gentleman that inquired about the pan the information that it was still available at the dealer so I think he can probably do the calling.

Thank for the post and appreciate your's and everyone else's help!!

Thanks
John

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 20:40:51 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Upgrades, where is the line drawn

>Another interesting thing I read is, That good 'ol Pete Wilson is going to
>sign (hopefully) a law that states, if any vehicle passes the emissions
test,
>it will pass. It doesn't need to pass the visual inspection.

Say what? Where? Scott, have I ever told you how much I appreciate you AOL
Guys?

Here is the California Smog Check site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://smogcheck.ca.gov/smoghome.htm
California legislative information http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/
California DMV http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dmv.ca.gov/

Deacon Blues deconblu

pacbell.net wrote:
>
> Don Grossman wrote:
> >
> > Hold on here a minute,
>
> THANK YOU DON!!!!!!!!!!!

Your Welcome.

> > The other wire goes to the I side of the starter relay. It could go
> > anywhere there is only power during starting only.
>
> Be careful here the.

> The "I" side of the starter relay has voltage from 2 sources. one is the
> ignition switch ( 12V ) the other is from the ballast resister. ( 6-8V ) Since
> the "I" side wire bypasses the ballast resister it has to be attached between
> the ballast resister and the coil thus it has some voltage as long as the kay is
> in the start or run positions. The proper place is to put the white wire is on
> the "s" terminal which supplies 12V only when the key is in the Start position.
>
> get out the volt meter and check. I goofed on mine and had to rewire that part
> of it for proper operation.

I getcha. That will the the #1 on my to do list in the morning. I got....

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