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Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 08:58:52 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #52
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fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, January 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 052



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Varsol ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: V10 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Mike Schwall 300 6 cylinder ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Manual tranny for 351M ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Manual tranny for 351M ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: compression ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Gas as a cleaner [Brian ]
RE: Upgrades, where is the line drawn [Sleddog ]
RE: A couple of questions about my truck [Sleddog ]
Re: Custom this or that....... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Duraspark II [Brian ]
Re: A couple of questions about my truck ["Gary, 78 BBB"
VINs [John Pajak ]
Re: Duraspark II ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: Gas as a cleaner [Randy Collins ]
Same MY [am14 chrysler.com]
RE:Washer Solvents [al.giordano AMETEK.COM]
Modular Ford V-10 [Stu Varner ]
Re: Blue Oval ["Mark Barry" ]
Re: Upgrades, where is the line drawn ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Blue Oval ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Manual tranny for 351M ["Michael Connor" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 07:13:09 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Varsol

> From: "Deacon"
> Subject: Re: Varsol
> Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 12:09:26 -0800

> that may panic. I don't panic. I was on fire when I was 7 years old
> and I panicked. Paid a painful price for it. Now I put out the fire.
> I look at it this way, Using paper twigs and dry wood I consider
> myself lucky if I get my fireplace going on my first try. I would
> really need to mess up getting the house lit without trying! :)

This really is the key. The biggest danger with gas isn't the "fire"
that eventually happens, it's the flash fire or explosion which
causes the most damage. Gas fires, the kind we usuallly run into
with a sprinkle of gas along with some other combustable material
like grease or rubber, is very easy to put out. If you can avoid
being caught in the original explosion like I was it's a no brainer.

I don't recommend spilling a quart coffee can all over the furnace
and hanging around to see what happens tho. I love your example
Deacon, almost fell of my chair :-)

BTW, still waiting for a report on the volitility and combustability
of mineral spirits and are there differnt kinds??

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 07:37:29 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: V10

> Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 22:33:00 -0500
> From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
> Subject: Re: V10
> (distributorless, EFI only), and it a complete dead end,
> performance-wise. For far less than the hassle of trying to fit a
> V10, you could build a 460 that would romp and stomp.

OTOH, 97 was the last year for V-8's as WE know them. The 460 just
became a classic or obsolete part so I will be junk yarding this
summer to get my life time supply hoarded :-)

No more 302's, 351's 460's, just stuff we can't fix or modify :-(
I'm glad I'm over 50 and close to the grave so I don't have to
witness the demise of real engines :-) What's all the hype anyway?
They don't get any better mileage and don't perform any better,
they're just harder to work on. Like I've said before, it I can get
15 mpg from a 460 with all the power I could ever hope for why settle
for a 300 I6 which give only marginally better mileage in a truck and
has NO power (comparatively speaking) for the amount of fuel it
burns??? The same applies to the new wave engines. Only new car
buyers will ever appreciate them IMHO.

Fact is, it the FE didn't have that inconvenient deal with the push
rods going through the intake it would probably be the most popular
engine of all time (ford that is). I certainly had some good
qualities.

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 08:06:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Mike Schwall 300 6 cylinder

> Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 16:57:44 -0600
> From: Mike Schwall
> Subject: Re: Mike Schwall 300 6 cylinder

> Ever hear a 300 6 that has been race prepped spining six grand with
> nothing but headers on it? Sounds sweet.

I've told this story before so close your ears if you've heard it, I
saw two lovely young ladies running modified roadsters with 300 I6's
and either three dual webbers or Holley 2300's and other fancy prep
work run in the low 10's at Milan Drag strip. Their husbands built
them so the ladies could have some fun :-) One lady said she had
been under 10 before with hers. When you consider the 64, 442's were
running in the 14's and blowing fuel ingected Vetts away (in 64) even
at that that's pretty awsome.

I agree with all the hype about the little 6's durability and
"comparative" torque but remember combustion cycles per revolution is
what makes torque, all other specs being equal so theoretically a V-8
will out torque a 6 if similarily designed which means that the 302
has more "potential" for torque than the 6 when properly built. I
know every one knows this I just felt lonely and had to type it
anyway :-)


Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 08:08:25 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Manual tranny for 351M

> Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 15:31:12 -0500
> From: "John F. Bauer III"
> Subject: Re: Manual tranny for 351M

> Anyone know a source for ZF new/remanufactured/etc. transmissions
> for Joe Consumer like myself?

You can go to the ZF.com site and E-mail them for the nearest
distributor. We have one in Mighigan in Grand Rapids I think it was.


Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 08:26:33 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Manual tranny for 351M

> From: "Michael Connor"
> Subject: Re: Manual tranny for 351M
> Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 14:12:38 -0700

> I have used the late model ZF 5speed manual overdrive
> with the 400M engine. The ZF will bolt to any 351/400M
> and the 460.

Ok, I'll swap info with you, tell me what you know about transfer
cases that fit and I'll tell you about the durability
factors.............

Ok, I know this much, they bolt to the 13-56 but is the 13-56 the
same pattern as the 205??? Anybody know??

The aluminum case and ATF go together to make a "medium duty"
transmission designed to be used in the diesel and big block
applications in trucks. The first one was the 542 which yeilded 420
ft/lbs of input torque and wasn't enough for the diesels and 460's so
they made a 547 with 470 ft/lbs of input. Now there is a 560 or so 6
speed for cummins diesels which would be the cat's meow if it had the
ford bolt pattern but I doubt it and ford is using a new one now for
the V-10 I understand but don't know the torque rating. Since they
have integral bell housings they can't be mixed and matched.

I've entertained this notion too but don't trust aluminum tranny
housings so keep putting it off. The consensus out there seems to be
that it's not an especially strong tranny so is marginal for the 460
IMHO.

My plan is to build a 460 for low end grunt but with as much top end
reserve as possible using roller cams etc. and mate it either to a
wide ratio C-6 or NP-435 through a NP-205 xfer case. I'm running
2.75 gears with wide ratio C-6 and stock 460 with torque cam now in
my 2wd PU and getting 12 on a good day and it has all the power I
could want but has no top end at all so I need to do more homework
:-)


Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 09:00:19 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: compression

> Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 12:10:36 -0800 (PST)
> From: John Pajak
> Subject: Re: compression

> Excerpt from some recent FE talk:
> "Different compression ratios are mostly accomplished by piston deck
> height."
>
> Was that supposed to mean different dishes in the pistons to get the
> different CRs? On most engines the deck height is consistent.....and
> compression is determined by combustion chamber size in the heads
> and/or dish size in the pistons.....

We need to understand the terminology here. Deck height referes to
the block distance from the center of the crank to the top of the
cylinder head "Deck" measured on the cylinder axis. Piston deck
"clearance" referes to the distance from the top ring land (upper
most edge of pistion) to the top of the "block deck" above. I
suppose Piston deck "height" would be measured from crank center line
to pistion deck at TDC? The piston compression height referes to the
location of the wrist pin relative to the piston deck or top of the
top ring land which can be different from the center height of the
piston, either domed or dished. Add rod length, measured between big
and small end centers, and compression height and we have piston deck
height I believe? Subtract this from the block deck height and we
have Pistion deck clearance.

Changing the rod length and appropriately changing the piston
compression height to compensate has zero effect on compression
ratio but has a good effect on pistion "speed" allowing more revs.

Some engines have considerable pistion deck clearance to play with
(space between the top of piston and block deck) so using a slighly
longer rod without changing the piston will raise the piston deck
height relative to the block deck height which effectively reduces
the piston deck clearance giving us more compression, see the
differnece?

We can gain compression by "decking" the block which also reduces
piston deck "clearance" which does the same thing but there is a
limit to this constrained by water jackets, push rod length etc..

We can also gain compression by "facing" the heads but that affects
the fit of the intake manifold so it needs to be faced to match and
this also affects the valve clearance, pushrod length etc..

I'm archiving all the interchange posts you guys put out there for
later use when I retire so I can try some of these things myself :-)


Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 08:09:23 -0500
From: Brian
Subject: Re: Gas as a cleaner

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> > Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:32:01 -0500
> > From: Brian
> > Subject: Re: Gas as a cleaner
>
> > John...I don't know about "Varsol" but I filled my parts washer with
> > the Mineral spirits washer fluid. Its about $21.00 for 5 gallons. My
>
> Isn't mineral spirits almost as flamable as gas or turpentine?
>
> Where's Murphy when
> you really need him??
>
> -- Gary --
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
If you go to any auto parts store and look for parts washer fluid,
then read the label as to its contents...you'll find "Mineral Spirits"
plus a few other chemicals...but the number one chemical in it is
Mineral spirits. It could be just as flamable...but that's what in it.
I've been using it for years and never had a problem. The stuff I use to
get from "Safety-Kleen" when I ran my shop would irritate your skin and
turn it red, but the over the counter solution from the parts stores
isn't as strong. But still works very well.

Brian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 09:08:35 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Upgrades, where is the line drawn

change the vins!

i used to drive around my 79 (1-ton 4x4) using my 77's (1/2 ton 4x4)
plates, registration, insurance card. for the inspection they never even
looked at vin. some knowledgable officers and mechanics noticed the year
difference, but i told them i swapped cabs and front clips, but didn't know
how to deal with the different vins yet. never did have a problem.
haven't done it in almost 3 years though now though. (i guess it was a
little illegal. shush, if you don't tell i won't! :)

sleddog

ps- i forgot, here in pa when i bought my 1/2 ton, it was registered as a
3/4. i dropped it baclk to 1/2 to save on registration, but the rating on
the registration says 5000 gvwr. the truack weighs that if i strip parts
off and don't sit in it! but here, you can get gvwr increases somehow. i
do not know the procedure.

- ----------
From: Deacon[SMTP:deconblu gte.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 1998 9:31 PM
To: Ford Trucks
Subject: Upgrades, where is the line drawn

Hey Gang!
This is going to get stupid but I can't get it out of my head. Last
year
I was getting parts to increase my '73 F100's payload. I came across my '76
F350 in a truck trader advertised as an F250 for $1200. I bought it because
I would have easily put $1200 into the F100 and wouldn't match the payload
of the F350.
Time to get stupid! Where is the line drawn for upgrading a truck
before
it's registration is no longer valid? Reading about marko's truck and
countless others that change engines, rearends, frontends, transmissions
and
frames. I have told myself there is no way I can change enough parts that I
would have a 1 ton '73 F100. Why would I even think of such foolishness?
'73
is smog exempt in California, Blood letting ambulance chasing, BS insurance
is cheaper and it's bugging the hell out of me why I can't do it. If we
have
any official smog nazi's on our list that can answer this question I Dana
would appreciate your input. If there aren't any, sorry Dana. :)
If the answer is I would have trouble selling it, so what! I'm not
planning on ever selling it. I could part it out for more than I have in it
if I wanted rid of it. The two trucks are so much alike I could pull the
drivers door off the F100 paint it white and put it on the F350 and change
the only vin # anyone would look at. The '73's registration is current so
there's no problems there.
Please stop me from thinking about this before my last bit of sanity
slips through my fingers, leaving me alone in a padded room with nothing to
do all day but post nonsense like this to the list. Thanks!


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/








+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 09:14:54 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: A couple of questions about my truck

why is the bass desirable from the front? i though that low frequencies are non-directional?

i have seen a show truck (at bloomsburg truck jamboree i think) with suicide doors, so it can be done. but at what $$$$?

sleddog

knowledgable in, and the point of putting subs in the engine compartment
would be to have the bass coming from the front, which is very desirable
if you are competing. Anyways, now that I've kinda introduced myself,
I'd like to ask a few more stupid questions. About suicide doors: is
that just where the doors open backwards (the hinge is on the side
facing the bed, instead of the engine side)? If so, would it be possible
to convert my doors like that (I'm sure everybody knows it's a '77 F100

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 09:24:05 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Custom this or that.......

> From: Impala502
> Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 22:19:09 EST
> Subject: Re: A couple of questions about my truck

> I don't know about the suicide doors, but i have had experience with
> shaved handles. In most cases shaving your door handles is a fairly
> easy project that involves taking the handles off, and filling the
> holes. Then you install a electronic door opener, (big trouble if
> you batterie goes dead) it uses solinoid operated "door popper" that
> pushes your door open. In my opinion, MY opinion, cars and trucks
> look the best when you take off all outside accesories ( handles,
> mouldings, emblems....) or none at all. :)

I agree, I like the clean look too but you need to supply an
emergency battery hook up to the outside through the grill or
something so you can "jump" it to get the doors open if necessary.

What you do in the winter after an ice storm is way beyond my area of
expertise since I've broken "real" handles right off attempting to
gain entrance........ :-)

The only people I know who actually get to try all their ideas are
single or don't give their families the attention they deserve so
most of us will have to dream I guess..........:-( How some of these
guys in magazines build upteen gazilion rigs in a relatively short
life time is beyond my comprehension since I'm having trouble just
keeping up with deterioration of important hardware, much less
changing anything on only two trucks ??? Ok, so I built a 4x4 van, I
couldn't keep up with the rust so It's gone now and I never had
money to really fix it up nice. I built a 460 on a shoe string so
left out some important upgrades making it somewhat of a
disappointment but it's worn out now and no time or funds to mess
with it and now the bronco project. We're making progress and I have
high hopes but this is going to be a life's project, it will never
have a happy ending since the options never end...........:-( Maybe
a happy interim.......:-)


Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 08:36:02 -0500
From: Brian
Subject: Duraspark II

Ok Gang.

The time is fast approaching for me to hook up the ignition. When I
purchased the '64 truck, the engine compartment was bare. Now it has a
nice new 460 sitting in it. I've got everything mounted in and only have
the two wires from the module left. I've read that these should be
hooked up to the ignition switch and the after the ballast resistor.
Question is..How do I find the ballast resistor ?
Is it an in-line wire, as some directions say, or is it something
mounted under the dash ? Or is it built into some other component ?

Electrical is not my strong point !! I remember a resistor on my
'73 challenger that was mounted on the fire wall..but don't know about
the Fords.

Thanks for you help in advance.....Brian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 09:36:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: A couple of questions about my truck

> From: "Deacon"
> Subject: Re: A couple of questions about my truck
> Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 22:17:05 -0800

- --Shaved door handles--

> It's something that can be done as a home project. It's not
> practical
> for a daily driver in my opinion but hey, who am I? :)

It just occured to me that I've seen "keyless" entry kits in the JCW
catalog. It's just a simple matter of making a few adjustments to
get it to actually open the door as well as unlock it I should
think??

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 06:43:26 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: VINs

Isn't the 'official' VIN on the right front framerail? I need to
check. My 75 F100 has a different LH door on it with the parts' truck
VIN. I still have the original (dented) door with the correct VIN
plate. Where can I get the 'special' rivets used to hold the VIN tag
to the door? I'd like to swap it over. But of course I still have the
decal on the door jamb with the correct VIN on it. But what happens if
I ever change frames? It could get sticky if it was ever stolen, etc
and the different VIN locations were checked.
There are several VIN locations that are well kept secrets. For
example on a '60s midsize GM car the VIN tag is riveted in the dash,
BUT, the VIN also appears stamped in the firewall BEHIND the heater
box, in the floor under the back seat, on the LH framerail, and
probably other locations.
On the Ford trucks the only places I know of are
1) VIN metal tag on the LH door
2) RF framerail
3) Sticker on LH door jamb

Anybody know of any more?


===
John Pajak JSPajak rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

75 F100
+ 19 other vehicles

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 09:54:47 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Duraspark II

> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 08:36:02 -0500
> From: Brian
> Subject: Duraspark II

> The time is fast approaching for me to hook up the ignition. When I
> purchased the '64 truck, the engine compartment was bare. Now it has
> a nice new 460 sitting in it. I've got everything mounted in and
> only have the two wires from the module left. I've read that these
> should be hooked up to the ignition switch and the after the ballast
> resistor. Question is..How do I find the ballast resistor ?
> Is it an in-line wire, as some directions say, or is it something
> mounted under the dash ? Or is it built into some other component ?

I found mine one day but can't remember where is was. On the 64
there should be one on the fire wall or the fender well near the
battery or voltage regulator. They usually mount them near something
else :-)

You need a red wire going from the start selenoid if you have one or
the ignition switch, start terminal to the white wire on the module
and another wire going to the red from the ballast resistor. If you
can't find one on the truck you should be able to get one for a 78
vintage PU and hook the input to the "run" terminal on the ignition
switch and output to the red wire on the module. Hopefully you found
all the harness in between the dist, coil and module with good plugs
on them?

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 01:24:57 -0700
From: Randy Collins
Subject: RE: Gas as a cleaner

Using gasoline as a cleaner is not safe!

I urge all of you to stop doing this immediately. The much safer
alternative is common mineral spirits (paint thinner). Mineral spirits is
available at any local paint, lumber or hardware store. I imagine that the
going rate is varies in different parts of the country but I would think
that $3 or so a gallon would be about right. I have been using this in my
parts washer for years. It works great and is much safer than gasoline.
Try it!.


Later,

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford F250 4WD Supercab "Muscle Truck"
460 SUPER COBRA JET
Short Block Completed...Stage II head work

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 10:18:35 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Same MY

You say: >>My '67 merc m100 is eligible for antique plates (well, was
until I took it
apart) and since I am of the same model year, I guess I am too!!

I got Grandchildren Older than You.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 10:19:49 -0500
From: al.giordano AMETEK.COM
Subject: RE:Washer Solvents

Hi everyone,
I work with stuff called Stoddard solvent it's a refined version of=20
kerosene as mineral spirits is, I use it in my washer it has a flash=20
point of 104 deg=2EF and autoignition of 550 deg=2EF=2E I also mix it=20=
with=20
Gunks super concentrate engine degreaser which is what they recommend=20
using, it works great=2E As with kerosene it is slow to ignite and=20
relatively safe=2E It is available from Ashland Chemical Columbus ,OH=20
614-790-3333
On the subject of 300-I6's my 77 F250 4x4 has this engine and it's=20
one heck of a workhorse, it's plowed snow all its life 120000 miles=20
worth and it will go to the grave with me I'm FORD Blue thru & thru=2E
One other note J=2EC Whtney sells a 4 bbl=2E manifold for the 300 I be=
live=20
it's made by Offenhauser=2E
=20
Al G=2E
Wilmington,MA
77 F250 4x4 NP205 NP435
68 Club Wagon 240-I6 3spd=2E=
=20
=20

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 09:24:00 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Modular Ford V-10

The contour Duratec, 4.6 SOHC, 4.6 DOHC and the V-10 6.8 as I have read all
share the same piston size etc. Ford tried to do this to save on the
number of fifferent parts to keep around. Reckon that is why the V-10 is so
small as far as displacemenr!
Stu Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 02:31:20 +1100
From: "Mark Barry"
Subject: Re: Blue Oval

>From: jniolon uss.com
>Subject: blue oval and url request
>
> I'm looking for a copy of a bmp or pcx file of the shiny Ford blue
> oval. The one with the chrome ring and lettes over a blue background.
> I need it suitable for wallpaper or screen saver or at least
> enlargeable. Anybody got one to share ???
>
Nup!
But why don't you do what most others do?
Get back on the web,
search on "ford".
Browse hundreds of related pages.
When you see an image you like, grab it (steal it) by;
A RIGHT click of the mouse!,
Your browser should then present you with a dialog box;
one option should be "save as".
Choose "save as" and you've got it!
It will be a JPG or GIF, but if you have access to PhotoPaint or PhotoShop
it should be a cinch from there to clean it up & save it as a BMP or PCX.

Don't get the guilts, 'cos if it is for wallpaper or a screen saver, that is
private use of a public image, I see no problem with this (Gillian
Anderson is on my wallpaper)
If, however, you are posting it in a home page (public forum) then email
the source with: (love your art, blah blah,.. can I, etc. etc...) If you
promise
a credit (logo supplied by....) then most people would agree. (It's a free
ad)

In terms of copy-right I see no problem in that:
1: Ford is a household word,
2: There is no argument that Ford owns the ford logo.
I assume you are pro-Ford & therefor;
3: would not be doing anything with their logo that was anti-ford
or 4: that Ford would not want to be associated with.

Mark Barry 1976 D-Series (Australian)
Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bssound.com.au
E-mail: mark bssound.com.au
mbarry c3.telstra-mm.net.au

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 10:37:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Upgrades, where is the line drawn

> From: "Deacon"
> Subject: Upgrades, where is the line drawn
> Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 18:31:47 -0800

> I was getting parts to increase my '73 F100's payload. I came across
> my '76 F350 in a truck trader advertised as an F250 for $1200. I
> bought it because I would have easily put $1200 into the F100 and
> wouldn't match the payload of the F350.
> Time to get stupid! Where is the line drawn for upgrading a
> truck before
> it's registration is no longer valid? Reading about marko's truck

I'm going out on a limb here but seems to me as long as you maintain
the character of the vehicle and continue to use the 73 body parts
there shouldn't be any problem? If you use the f-350 chasis then
upgrade the registration to reflect the GVW and GVWR so the feds get
their share I doubt if anyone would complain. The problems I've
heard of come in when you try to rate a vehicle for less weight
capacity since some states still register light trucks based on Total
capacity or simply curb weight. Mincing over a couple of hundred
bucks a year to have it completely legal to me is very silly. This
falls into the same catagory as building permits, I've learned more
about how to do it right by getting the permit and asking the
inspectors questions than I could ever have learned in a class
costing as much as the permit :-) Cheap education I say.......

The other problem is when you change engines, many states require the
emissions to meet the later of the two, either engine or truck.
Other than these two things It seems to me that there should be no
problem??

Also some insurance companies have less liberal policies so you may
have to search out a more liberal ins company. Trust me they will
take your money but if your vehicle does not comply with their,
sometimes, complicated criteria they can legally refuse to cover a
claim in the same manner as household ins can if your electrics
aren't up to code etc..

In Michigan there is a special vehicle registration but it can get
complicated since the law considers it a "new" vehicle so it's
subject to what ever emissions standards are required of new vehicles
of it's type in the year it's titled so I doubt if it's used much by
home vehicle builders.

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 10:48:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Blue Oval

> From: "Mark Barry"
> Subject: Re: Blue Oval
> Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 02:31:20 +1100

> > I'm looking for a copy of a bmp or pcx file of the shiny Ford
> > blue oval. The one with the chrome ring and lettes over a
> > blue background. I need it suitable for wallpaper or screen
> > saver or at least enlargeable. Anybody got one to share ???
> >
> Nup!
> But why don't you do what most others do?
> Get back on the web,
> search on "ford".
> Browse hundreds of related pages.
> When you see an image you like, grab it (steal it) by;

I was going to direct you to a ford "logo" page but I couldn't find
it. It used to be in the main menu on the home page but now It's
gone so when I get bored again I'll go take another look and see if I
can find it. If it's on the "public" web site I'm reasonably sure
they won't mind, that's what they'er there for but mainly for
internal use as letter heads etc..

This is something Ken might want to look into as well?

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 08:48:38 -0700
From: "Michael Connor"
Subject: Re: Manual tranny for 351M

Gary,

>> I have used the late model ZF 5speed manual overdrive
>> with the 400M engine. The ZF will bolt to any 351/400M
>> and the 460.
>
>Ok, I'll swap info with you, tell me what you know about transfer
>cases that fit and I'll tell you about the durability
>factors.............
>
>Ok, I know this much, they bolt to the 13-56 but is the 13-56 the
>same pattern as the 205??? Anybody know??


The ZF has a couple of different rear case sections. One (the 2
wheel drive version) has a yoke coming out the back where the
driveshaft connects to. Another (4 wheel drive version) has the
mounting flange for bolting the transfer case to. Since I have the
remote-mount transfer case I was able to use the 2 wheel drive
version. However, my tranny shop owner friend (another Ford
fanatic) showed me the 4 wheel drive ZF rear case section with
the transfer case mounting flange. According to him, the bolt
patterns on the mounting flange would accept a wide range of
transfer cases including -
NP 205, 208, 203
1345, 1356

The reason he showed this to me was to point out how easy it
would be to swap one into his 79 Bronco. His transfer case would
easily bolt to it, with only a very minor modification.


>I've entertained this notion too but don't trust aluminum tranny
>housings so keep putting it off. The consensus out there seems to be
>that it's not an especially strong tranny so is marginal for the 460....


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