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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 19:45:35 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #5
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, January 5 1998 Volume 02 : Number 005



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Need help on my 73 F250 [Jean and Phillip Johnson
Re: Ford truck enthusiasts post ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
63 Custom Cab [John Strauss ]
Re: ADMIN: Request for articles ["John F. Bauer III"
Holiday madness......... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
'63 V8 [am14 chrysler.com]
Slip yoke [am14 chrysler.com]
ignore - test post - messages getting bounced [Sleddog ]
C4 wont engage until warm [am14 chrysler.com]
292 V8 [am14 chrysler.com]
Valve clatter [am14 chrysler.com]
'63 Custom Cab [John Strauss ]
Ping [Jason DiSalvo ]
Re: '63 Custom Cab [A66f100 ]
Pwr steering cooler [am14 chrysler.com]
Other Mailing Lists [Tyler Abbott ]
Steering, C-6 Aftermarket Shifters? [Tyler Wilkins ]
Power Steering Cooler [bradyiii shore.intercom.net]
Fuel Economy [bradyiii shore.intercom.net]
Re: Fuel tank, tranny rebuild ["Ron" ]
Re: Need help on my 73 F250 ["Ron" ]
Re: Valve clatter ["Ron" ]
Re: Other Mailing Lists [Ken Payne ]
Re: Bigger fuel tank [leadmic juno.com (Mark L Williams)]
Re: Steering, C-6 Aftermarket Shifters? [Bruce Kimball

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 06:19:09 -0600
From: Jean and Phillip Johnson
Subject: Re: Need help on my 73 F250

Lee Craner wrote:
>
> I've got a 390 in my '73 w/25,000 miles on the engine (complete rebuild by
> prior owner). The other night, I blew the top radiator hose (it literally
> exploded). After replacing it, the engine had no power and quickly
> overheated.
>
> A compression check showed 30 lbs on #2 cylinder and 155 lbs on #3. All the
> rest were between 120# and 130#.
>
> Both pushrods on #3 were severly bent, accounting for the higher than normal
> compression. The valves on #3 looked ok, as did the top of the piston. There
> was no obvious evidence that the head gasket at blown at #2.
>
> The head is currently at the machine shop being checked out. Before pulling
> the head I suspected I blew the head gasket at #2. Finding both #3 rods bent
> really surprised me. Any ideas how I can bend both rods and how this would
> relate to overheating?\
>
> Lee
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
Before you put your engine back together I'd suggest you at least pull
your No. 2 piston and get a look at it. With that low compression and
the fact that you said your engine had no power, theres a good chance
you at least have blown rings and possibly a cracked piston. You can't
see this with the piston in the cylinder.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 08:01:59 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Ford truck enthusiasts post

> Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 00:34:50 -0500
> From: Ken Payne
> Subject: Ford truck enthusiasts post

> Gary,
>
> I can't figure out why but the server bounced your post.
> Can you try resending it?
>
> Ken

Ok, here it is again. I hope no one got this twice??

Weeeeeeeellllll, I worked on it again, used the Fluke meter,
checked everything in the switch circuit except the bulbs
themselves since the hazzard switch lit them all up perfectly.
While jumping the contacts out I got this little puff of smoke and
now the hazzards don't work and I'm getting a really funny,
unstable 0 - 20v reading off that contact.

This time I got the Chasis electircal book out and surprise of
surprises, I had done everything they said except check the bulbs.
Dang things work so why check them??? Weeeeeeeeeeeellll, I did
and now the turn signals work but I didn't change anything, just
took them out, looked at them (with a disdainfull look, I'm sure)
and put them back in????? No loose filiments, no obvious shorts
and they are obviously grounded or they wouldn't work.

Now the hazzards will come on when I press the brake pedal but
don't flash and both flashers work and have sufficient start up
contact to blow the horn so there's no partial open either????????

Going to take a look at the brake light switch next,
Sheeeeesssshhh, how can such a simple circuit but so dang
troublesome!!??

I'm not going to let this side track me from welding and trussing
my dana 44, starting Wednesday bright and early, sand blasting it
and painting it fire engine orange or yellow with poly something or
other and my drive shaft white in case I decide to race it in the
omber class (not really, they don't allow 4 wheelers). When I
rebuild the NP-435 I'll do the same to it, and the NP-205 and
..........................

BTW, there's a really neat tough truck in the Feb off-road with
trussed 9" ford rear end, really cool! And somebody tell me when
ford used square shaped axle tubes on F-350's?? I think this guy
(not the one above) used military axles but they're cool too :-)

BTW, I'm back from the holidays and there's yer good news and yer
bad....................

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 08:02:55 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: 63 Custom Cab

Mike,
What's the report on the '63 CC you were looking at for $875? The most
important things to me would be a) is it a unibody and b) is it a "big
window" model. If it is both you should snap it up immediately I'd say.
From your description the engine is a 292 V8. This is an original
equipment engine for that year. The VIN code for the 292 in '63 is "D".
That particalar style engine is called a "Y-block". I have a '64 CC
(w/original 292 V8) and a '61 Unibody so I am fairly familiar with what you
are looking at - email me if you need more info.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 09:57:45 -0500
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Request for articles

Group:

I have completed the rough draft of the Ford C6/NP205 removal/re-install
article and would greatly appreciate any volunteers to give it a once over
and offer grammatical/technical advice.

If anyone is so generious, please email directly at:

bauerjf ix.netcom.com

Thanks,
John

At 12:09 AM 12/31/97 -0500, you wrote:
>If you have a talent, have done an upgrade, engine swap,
>performance enhancement, repair, added an alarm system,
>etc.... whatever it is you can share your experience
>with others via the web site.
>
>I recently put an article on the web site describing
>upgrading 67-72 Ford trucks to front disc brakes. Another
>list member has submitted an article on Ford C6/NP205
>transmission removal and re-installation which will soon
>appear on the web site.
>
>You'll get full credit for an article, I won't edit it and
>you keep the copyright (there will be a copyright notice on
>it). I can't offer financial gain because, frankly, the web
>site ain't making money. We come out a little above the
>break even point. I will, however, send you one of our window
>stickers.
>
>I'm searching for experience with any Ford truck/van model,
>any year and virtually any area (an article on changing
>tires is probably not a good idea!). If you're interested,
>let me know (kpayne mindspring.com) browse the conversion
>guide on the web site to get a basic idea of the format.
>The C6/NP205 guide has a similar format.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ken
>http://www.ford-trucks.com
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 11:02:18 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Holiday madness.........

Weeeeeeeeeell, I'm back! Fist thing I did was rebuild the brakes on
the 92 TBird, then there's the normal holiday stuff, running around
and wasting valuable shop time with the family etc. :-)

Then I replaced the power steering pump cuz I just knew that was the
problem. Test drove it to town with a fitting loose and ran all the
oil out so drove it home dry. Probably burned up the new pump :-(
Don't even want to talk about it.............

Finally got to the axle, pulled it out, stripped it, sand blasted it,
welded the tubes and welded on a truss. Still sitting there waiting
for some more sanding and prep so I can prime it. Can you imagine
paying $45 for a quart of Emron??

Here's what I've learned:

1..There is a problem with ford power steering systems that
interferes with the self bleeding we are used to, at least I was. It
seems that you need to cycle the steering from lock to lock with the
engine off several times to get all the air out or the buzzing never
goes away. Haven't tried it yet but will when I get it back up,
maybe there's hope yet :-)

2..I used 5/8 x 1" bar stock for the truss and welded it over the
centermost rib on the housing and to the forgings on the tube ends.
It appears to me that the tube ends are made of a different material
than the gear case since I experienced more undercutting on the gear
case. On reappraisal of my handy work I've decided a better way to
go would have been to use 3/4" round stock and bury it in the groove
between the two ribs giving better ground clearance while creating a
ramp effect for obsticles. The ends would not have required any prep
since the round shape already creates a "V" and it's easily bent to
lay flat on the tubes for welding. The center would not need any
welding at all to keep it in place but it wouldn't have been exactly
centered vertically under the case. The angle of deflection from
vertical, I believe now, would not have hurt it's effectiveness in
the least so my next version will be as just described :-)

3..Sand blasting is slow, tedious work and a blaster won't touch
grease, rubber, silicone etc. so you have to scrape it off by hand
first. I tried 90 psi first since all my tools run that way but
found that for blasting 125 worked much better. I used a medium
silica sand in a cheap Sears siphon blaster and it seemed to do a
good job. A trick I learned here was to tie the sand hose to the air
hose (with wire ties) to prevent it's kinking and blocking the flow.
This saved me a lot of agrivation.

I also put a tarp under the job so I could re-use some of the sand
which I did many times. The blaster has a strainer in the filler
hole so you sift out all the junk. I found that a 20 gal metal trash
can and 1-1/2 qt plastic pitcher worked well for keeping the sand and
filling the blaster. The pitcher also worked well for picking up the
sand off the floor.

4..The reason my compressor is blowing the 50 amp breaker is that the
oil in the pump gets thick just like in a car engine and has the same
result in that it requires much more energy to turn it over. In cold
weather I have to put a heater on the pump to keep it warm and then
it starts up just fine. At some point it will have to be in the
heated part of the garage or I will have to invest in a dipstick
warmer of some kind.

5..I also learned that even though we make all kinds of plans to be
meticulous in setting up a job we tend to forget important things:

I planned to put the seal installation tool in to pressurize the
bearing supports while welding so it didn't shrink inward but forgot
to do it. I did remember to pre-stress the tubes with a comealong
when welding the truss tho :-)

I planned to cover up a bunch of stuff before blasting and forgot
to do that too so I have a real mess!

I was going to have all the parts ready but got side tracked so
here I am waiting for parts to show up.

I planned to have the PU ready to drive in case all the above
happened but forgot to install the 4th shock which fell off. Now I
have no place to work since the bronco is up on blocks :-( Kym, this
truck has a 460 and no sway bars plus only 3 shocks. How would you
like to deal with that one?? :-) (nicknamed the "Ditch Truck" or
"Ditch Witch" due to it's specialized handling attributes)

One more aside, anyone planning to do his own ball joints or wheel
bearings on a dana front end should invest in the nut wrench for the
spindle nuts, good snap ring pliers and the special tool for the
upper ball joint sleeve. All these together shouldn't cost more than
$50 and are WELL WORTH IT!!! The ball joint sleeve tool as
absoulutely mandatory if you want them to last very long as it is
required to balance the pressure on the ball joints as I described in
one of my previous posts. I just replaced all mine without this tool
(drove on them maybe 30 days or so) and they are all very loose. I
can shake the steering yoke and they flop around even full of grease.
There is no "play" in them but the original tightness is very, very
gone so I suspect they have already been damaged somewhat.

If anyone had a question during the holiday and addressed it to me,
send it directly to me and I will try to respond. I've been
unsubscribed to both lists so have no back log to pour through :-)


Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 11:02:38 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: '63 V8

>>Dist is in back of the air breather at an angle and there is an
exhaust cross over tube on the top front of the engine. Is this
possibly a 292 V8?
Mike B.
This would be the 292cid offered as optional in '63, I believe.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 11:22:05 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Slip yoke

Don't know where you are located, but if you are in the South East you
might try "Birmingham Spring 2017 2nd Ave S,. Birmingham, Al. (205)
251-6281.) I'm not affiliated with them in any way, but they have done
several special built driveshafts for me. All to my complete
satisfaction. I know they had the slip yokes in stock a couple of
years ago, because I had to go get one.
>>I have a '78 f150 4x4 with a NP203 transfer case. On the front axle
there is a slip yolk on the drivers side that connects the axle to
the hub which rotates the front tire. I think it is called the slip
yolk. FoMoCo has it for an arm, leg, and my first born, where can I
buy it cheaper?
Good luck

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 11:44:54 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: ignore - test post - messages getting bounced



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 12:22:25 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: C4 wont engage until warm

John H. Sounds as if you need a fluid/filter change. Usually this is
caused by the front pump not building enough pressure to engage the
clutch pack, and I've found the culprit to usually be the filter
clogged.
>>67 F250 352V8 C4 Trans. Can anyone advise me on a problem I have when
first warming up my truck, Trans won't shift until about 25mins of
wasting gas and time!! I've tried starting out in 2nd gear and shifting
into drive with no luck. She runs fine when all warmed up.

Good luck

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 12:28:21 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 292 V8

Only problem I've ever known with this design is the cam bearings have
a tendency to twist and get the oiling holes out of alignment therefore
starving the upper cylinder head of oil (the rocker arm assemblies -
the oil going to the rockers comes thru the cam bearings and when they
twist, the cam will still oil, but the rocker assemblies will not) If
oil/filter is changed regularly this is not a problem. I put 235000
miles on a 312 V8 (same design as the 292) and never had a problem.
Parts would probably be scarce by now. The design was dropped after
1964.

>>Anyone have any experience with 292V8s i.e. reliability, parts
availability, etc.? Thanks. Mike B.


Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 12:36:56 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Valve clatter

Jesus C. All these design engines (V8 292) had solid lifters and
adjustable rockers. Some valve clatter is to be expected or you will
be burning valves quite regularly. If memory serves me correctly the
clearances should be .020/.022 " and this will definately clatter
somewhat.

>>I just picked up my truck (63 F100) from the mechanic....I had my
292 rebuilt. It seems that the valves are louder now than before the
rebuilt. Has anyone else had the same thing happen to them? Did they
get
quiter once the engine was broken in?

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 11:37:27 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: '63 Custom Cab

Mike,
What's the report on the '63 CC you were looking at for $875? The most
important things to me would be a) is it a unibody and b) is it a "big
window" model. If it is both you should snap it up immediately I'd say.
From your description the engine is a 292 V8. This is an original
equipment engine for that year. The VIN code for the 292 in '63 is "D".
That particalar style engine is called a "Y-block". I have a '64 CC
(w/original 292 V8) and a '61 Unibody so I am fairly familiar with what you
are looking at - email me if you need more info.



_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 13:30:44 -0500
From: Jason DiSalvo
Subject: Ping

I have a 1994 F150. I have the 302. Automatic trans. I hear a ping when I
hit the gas. Not a loud ping but there is a ping there. I tried all
different gas/ 87-89-93. All ping. Took it to a ford dealer here and they
said they cant find anything wrong? Any ideas? Also thanks for the help
with the lift kit!

_jason
disalvo tco.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 13:50:27 EST
From: A66f100
Subject: Re: '63 Custom Cab

John,
It is not a unibody. The engine sounded good, but I did not have time to drive
it. I was looking for a truck for my daughter when I spotted this one. She
liked this one fairly well. However she really wants a 66 CC like mine. Soooo
looks like the search goes on for a 66. Thought seriously about buying it for
myself. The powers that be vetoed that idea. Oh well. Thanks for all the info
everyone posted on the 63. Mike.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 15:06:40 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Pwr steering cooler

Randy: They were used in a lot more years than those you mentioned. I
saw them on early T birds with 390's. Surely theres a salvage yard
near you, that has some older models with one or two in it someplace.
If all else fails, I have one and maybe two in my shed someplace. It's
a long way from Alabama to Idaho, though. I would part with one, but
not both if you absolutely can't find one anyplace else.

>>I would like to buy one of the old Ford power steering coolers. I
believe that these were used on late 60's early 70's 429 equipped
cars. Anyone have one or know where I could get one of these?>>

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 15:30:42 -0800
From: Tyler Abbott
Subject: Other Mailing Lists

First I want to say "I'm not leaving the list, I have had a great experence
with the FORD truck list". Such a great experence, I want to see if there
are another mailing list anyone recomends? Has anyone else tryed any others?
I'd really like a Vintage Car/Mustang list? Perhaps even a Do*ge/Ch*ysler or
Ch%vy one? I'm just trying to branch out and gather more info.
Thanks
- -Tyler-
A great Philosopher once said, "If I'm cut ,will I not bleed...FORD BLUE".

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 17:46:34 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Steering, C-6 Aftermarket Shifters?

Ok here we go....

I have now progressed to my front end on my '79 F-100 4x2. I just bought
all the major parts, the tie rod, and adjoining linkage components going
to the hubs. Any suggestions on anything else that should be gone over
on the front end? Such as Radius arm bushings, any bushings or such in
the hubs, etc? Are these a worthy replacement (Radius Arm bushings)?
Anyone done this know how difficult this is or how costly they are?

Also,
When I had my cab off and on the trailer (Body Transplant) it mangled my
transmition linkage and I had already been thinking about getting any
after market floor shifter instead of my column shifter. Since I need
to replace my linkage I figured I mine as well upgrade to the floor
shifter anyways since those don't even use linkages, just cables.
(Right?) My question is whether anyone has purchased a shifter of this
type, any suggestions which ones are better, cheaper? I found a few
types in my summit catalog, I was going to go with one of those unless
anyone has any other suggestions. Thanx Everyone.....


Tyler Wilkins
Milwaukee, WI


'79 F-100 4x2 351M, C-6,BFG Radials T/A's on Crager 5-spokes, Headers,
Glasspacks
'74 F-100 4x2 360, C-6,68,000 origanal miles, Never seen a mechanic
'73 F-250 4x4 360 w/ 390 4bbl & heads,4-speed, Headers, 33" BFG Muds
'94 Explorer 4-Door, 31" BFG Radial All-Terrains

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 19:17:56 +0000
From: bradyiii shore.intercom.net
Subject: Power Steering Cooler

> Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 12:53:52 -0800
> From: Randy Collins
> Subject: Power Steering Cooler
>
> List members,
>
> I would like to buy one of the old Ford power steering coolers. I believe
> that these were used on late 60's early 70's 429 equipped cars. Anyone
> have one or know where I could get one of these?
>
> Later,
>
> Randy Collins
> Boise, Idaho
> rcollins micron.net
>
Randy,
I have one from 360 equipped '71 F-100. I removed it because it
looked unessesary. Let me know if you are interested in mine.

Jim Brady

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 19:17:56 +0000
From: bradyiii shore.intercom.net
Subject: Fuel Economy

> Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 13:21:20 -0600
> From: "kingw"
> Subject: Re: Fuel Economy
>
> Jim,

> Finally, you might consider building a front spoiler for your truck if you
> do a fair
> amount of highway driving (*flame proof suit now on*). I had seen an old
> Car
> and Driver series from the early 1970s where they only put front spoilers
> onto
> a bunch of cars (I recall a Pinto and 240z) and got substantial mileage
> improvements.
> You could make one yourself out of sheet metal (I wouldn't buy one. They
> may look nicer, but they won't work as well as one you made yourself. The
> idea behind them
> is very simple) and (provided you made it right) should see some
> improvement.
> Just an idea.
>
> Bill
>
>Bill,
This sounds interesting. I want to add fog lamps so a spoiler could
be an integral part of my plan. What sort of angles come into play
here? Let me know any details that might help.

Jim Brady

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 20:19:13 -0500
From: "Ron"
Subject: Re: Fuel tank, tranny rebuild

I did this same thing on the V-dubs bell housings. Over the years I have
probably done several hundred of them. Believe me its a great thing and
saves a lot of work. Just don't shoot the pressure plate and clutch disc.
Keep in mind---plug the opening that is left with body caulk to water and
mud proof.

North Carolina Ridge Runner Ron

- ----------
> From: J. Oxley
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: Fuel tank, tranny rebuild
> Date: Sunday, January 04, 1998 10:17 PM
>
> > I'm also looking for a good source of info for rebuilding my New
Process
> > 435 4 speed. The third gear syncros are going, it grinds going in to
> > gear and pops out while I'm accelerating.
>
> Chiltons has some prety good info if you don't have the factory
> manuals. It was a pretty straight forward rebuild as it was the first
> manual transmission ever rebuilt.
>
> >A friend of mine suggested
> > getting a greaseable throwout bearing, drilling a hole in the
> > bellhouseing and running a hose to a 1/4 28 barb fitting or a 1/4 28
>to 1/8 female pipe thread fitting. This way the throwout bearing can be
> > easily greased, what do you think?
> >
>
> I would like to hear more on this. My throwout bearing is going
> after only about 5000 miles, but almost all my milage is towing heavy
> loads or serious deep water wheelin. It took me 5 years to acumulate
> this milage, so I'm not that upset about it. I would like to be able to
> grease it though. Where can I get a greasable throwout bearing??
>
> OX
>
>
> > Mark
> > 1978 F150 4x4 "The Great Pumpkin"
> > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> > | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> > | List removal information is on the web site. |
> > +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 20:42:52 -0500
From: "Ron"
Subject: Re: Need help on my 73 F250

Lee,
Either the head gasket failed or the engine sucked water in the air filter
and carb. I don't know how your engine air filter is set up. If it is
open to the front of the engine it can suck a large amount of water with a
major blow like you had.
Water being compressed is like standing there with a 4 pound hammer and
waiting for the piston to come up and hit it hard as you can.

Ron

- ----------
> From: Lee Craner
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Need help on my 73 F250
> Date: Monday, January 05, 1998 12:44 AM
>
> I've got a 390 in my '73 w/25,000 miles on the engine (complete rebuild
by
> prior owner). The other night, I blew the top radiator hose (it
literally
> exploded). After replacing it, the engine had no power and quickly
> overheated.
>
> A compression check showed 30 lbs on #2 cylinder and 155 lbs on #3. All
the
> rest were between 120# and 130#.
>
> Both pushrods on #3 were severly bent, accounting for the higher than
normal
> compression. The valves on #3 looked ok, as did the top of the piston.
There
> was no obvious evidence that the head gasket at blown at #2.
>
> The head is currently at the machine shop being checked out. Before
pulling
> the head I suspected I blew the head gasket at #2. Finding both #3 rods
bent
> really surprised me. Any ideas how I can bend both rods and how this
would
> relate to overheating?\
>
> Lee
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 21:09:50 -0500
From: "Ron"
Subject: Re: Valve clatter

Sometimes the mechanic will leave the lifters a little on the loose side
to allow for valve wear which will shorten that valve clearance and lessen
the noise as it wears. This wear is usually fast and will seat the valves.
If not left loose, the valves burn. This was done especially when the
mechanic used a coarse valve grinding compound. A very fine valve grinding
compound will not have very much wear because the surface is much smoother.

With solids you will have some noticeable noise. Also, be sure you go
back for another valve adjustment after about a 1,000 miles or so. Some
may over tighten during wear-in.

Ron

- ----------
> From: am14 chrysler.com
> To: Fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Valve clatter
> Date: Monday, January 05, 1998 12:36 PM
>
> Jesus C. All these design engines (V8 292) had solid lifters and
> adjustable rockers. Some valve clatter is to be expected or you will
> be burning valves quite regularly. If memory serves me correctly the
> clearances should be .020/.022 " and this will definately clatter
> somewhat.
>
> >>I just picked up my truck (63 F100) from the mechanic....I had my
> 292 rebuilt. It seems that the valves are louder now than before the
> rebuilt. Has anyone else had the same thing happen to them? Did they
> get
> quiter once the engine was broken in?
>
> Azie
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 21:18:51 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Other Mailing Lists

At 03:30 PM 1/5/98 -0800, you wrote:
>First I want to say "I'm not leaving the list, I have had a great experence
>with the FORD truck list". Such a great experence, I want to see if there
>are another mailing list anyone recomends? Has anyone else tryed any others?
>I'd really like a Vintage Car/Mustang list? Perhaps even a Do*ge/Ch*ysler or
>Ch%vy one? I'm just trying to branch out and gather more info.
>Thanks
>-Tyler-
>A great Philosopher once said, "If I'm cut ,will I not bleed...FORD BLUE".
>

Fordnatics is a good list for Ford performance, all models. There's
a link on the web site.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 18:27:54 -0800
From: leadmic juno.com (Mark L Williams)
Subject: Re: Bigger fuel tank

Mark I have done this conversion on my "74" 4x and its not that hard
but you need to get a tank from a 78-79 bronco or you will have to have a
vent neck installed next to the filler neck. Also its not a bolt in
installation. First you have to space the tank down about an inch or it
will hit the bottom side of the bed also you will need to get the
mounting straps for the top and rear cross member from the bronco to hang
it from for the back mounting . You will need to drill new mounting holes
in the front. One more thing be sure you get the skid plate with the tank
it acts as a cradle and bolts the tank to the mounting brackets .
Heres one more thing to think about I have a friend that bought
a38 gal. tank for his "78" from J.C.Whitney for $ 250.00 it was a bolt in
installation and he got six more gal. to boot. The tank came with
everything to bolt it in and fits fine.
Hope this helps
Mark

>Date: Sun,ne 04 Jan 1998 17:02:29 -0700
>From: mark heims
>Subject: Fuel tank, tranny rebuild
>
>Hi all,
>I've been thinking of putting a bigger fuel tank on my 78 shortbed
>4x4.
>Will a 33 gal bronco tank work, there fairly cheap but aren't as wide
>or
>long. My 35" spare won't fit under the truck so the depth isn't a
>problem. Can I get some bronco mounting straps and put one under there
>easily or are the filler holes in different locations?
>
>
>Mark
>1978 F150 4x4 "The Great Pumpkin"
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 21:48:36 -0500
From: Bruce Kimball
Subject: Re: Steering, C-6 Aftermarket Shifters?

I once had a B&M shifter in mt 1971 F250. It was ok but was hard to reach
way down on the floorboard.. I once saw a truck that the guy had built a box
type center console to mount the shifter on, but I didnt like it the way it
looked. Mine on the floor kind of gave up any floor space to a center seated
passenger.too.

I later wished I had spent some time redoing the stock linkage. It sure
looked better.
If you go to ever sell the truck, others may not like reaching down to the
floor to shift.

Radius arm bushings, urethane ones, are about $ 20.00. Mine were energy
suspension . Just unbolt the hanging bracket (block the wheels, and only do
one side at a time) after loosening the large nut on the end. Slide the
bushings off and on and then bolt up the bracket. Tighten up the end bolt
tight. I did mine in about an hour and a half in my driveway. I used a floor
jack under the arm to support it and wiggle the hanging bracket up so I
could line the bolts up. I think I might have used a jack stand in there
too. Its been a year or so since I did them and I dont remember exactly.

I have a 1978 F00 2wd with a 302. It is a great truck and is the most
dependable vehicle I ever had. (It now has 180,000 miles )

Good luck!

Bruce

At 05:46 PM 1/5/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Ok here we go....
>
>I have now progressed to my front end on my '79 F-100 4x2. I just bought
>all the major parts, the tie rod, and adjoining linkage components going
>to the hubs. Any suggestions on anything else that should be gone over
>on the front end? Such as Radius arm bushings, any bushings or such in
>the hubs, etc? Are these a worthy replacement (Radius Arm bushings)?
>Anyone done this know how difficult this is or how costly they are?
>
....


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