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Return-Path: Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 03:50:27 -0700 (MST) From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest To: fordtrucks61-79-digest Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #44 Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, January 27 1998 Volume 02 : Number 044 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks61-79-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: Rear Brakes Dana 60's ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: Rear Bearings ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: Rear Bearings [james oxley ] 351M/400 calibration specs [Adam Clever ] Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #34 ["Dennis K. Austin" Hesitation, and thanks! ["MICHAEL THOMAS" ] Re Brake light ["Hogan, Tom" ] Re: 56 F-100 [Marv Miller ] RE: 56 F-100 [Sleddog ] Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #43 ["Harry Jennings" Re: 460 ex manifolds [CandyDMan ] Re: Brakes Part 3 ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ] Re: P/s things [OldTrux ] New 5.0 Head ["Deacon" ] ADMIN: MAJOR MILESTONE!! [Ken Payne ] Re: 460 ex manifolds [Brian ] Re: ADMIN: MAJOR MILESTONE!! ["Michael Connor" ] Re: Rear Bearings [danadeb Re: ADMIN: MAJOR MILESTONE!! [shoman Re: Hesitation, and thanks! [marko ] Re: Power Steering Conversion [Don Grossman ] Re: P/s things [Don Grossman ] F350 4x4's ["Dave Walbeck" ] Re: Hesitation, and thanks! [marko ] Re: Hesitation, and thanks! ["Deacon" ] Re: ADMIN: MAJOR MILESTONE!! ["Deacon" ] ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 13:17:34 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: Rear Brakes Dana 60's > Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 18:12:08 -0800 > From: Don Grossman > Subject: Re: Rear Brakes Dana 60's > Does anyone have any information on the earlier dana 60's? I was > thinking about adding the 3" drums to the back. It's not that I > would not be open to swapping the entire rear end out but the later > models are to wide. There was a very good article in one of the 4x4 mags last year and it mentioned that there were 4 types of dana 60 with the 35 spline being the strongest and the 16 being the weakest. There were housing and tubing concernes as well but I don't have it in front of me right now. Where's Murphy when you really need him?? - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 13:42:38 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: Rear Bearings > From: danadeb > Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 18:29:36 -0800 > Subject: Rear Bearings > On a full floating rear hub ( Dana 60 in my case ) should the inside > of the hub be packed with grease like I have always done in the > front hubs? > > Should I pack grease into the front hubs for that matter? > > My shop manual only says pack the bearings, doesn't say anything > about grease anywhere else. Technically all a bearing needs is a thin film of moly lube to protect it from metal to metal contact so all that needs packing is the bearing. We usually leave some on the outside of the bearing itself to add a little reserve but beyond that you just waste grease and reduce the axle's heat sinking capacity since the grease is a poor conductor of heat. If you're talking about front 4x4 hubs the problem is one of not locking up properly due to the grease interfering with the sprocket or ring gear's movement since locking is spring loaded and there is no way to force it to lock manually. This is IMHO the main reason people blow up hubs. (not fully engaged) I just redid mine and put a very thin film on all the moving parts in the hub, packed the bearings leaving a fair amount on the outside of each and reassembled it with new seals and the hubs work better than any I've ever done, smooth and crisp with good detent feel at either position. Since mine are disk brakes I used Moly Lube made for that purpose and noted that they had 3 different kinds of wheel bearing grease for differnt purposes. I simply buy the best moly disk brake bearing grease and put it on all my bearings I pack regardless. (course most are disk brakes) BTW, when you clean the bearings, rotate them in the solvent with your fingers to clean them and blow them out with air but hold the cage so it can't spin. NEVER SPIN BEARINGS WITH AN AIR GUN! I just used a coffee can with about a pint (maybe up to a quart) of gas in it and kept the lid on it to reduce fumes in the garage since I was using an oil furnace for heat and was very carefull not to spill it. This amount of gas cleaned all my hub parts and 4 bearings as well as most of the bearings and parts in the dana diff and other miscellaneous parts as I re-assembled the dana. Where's Murphy when you really need him?? - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 14:10:36 -0800 From: james oxley Subject: Re: Rear Bearings >Technically all a bearing needs is a thin film of moly lube to >protect it from metal to metal contact so all that needs packing is >the bearing. I thought dana 60 rear (rear) bearings were lubed by the diff oil. There is no seal to keep oil from going down to bearings. My bearings had oil all over them and no grease when I got dana 60. OX ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 98 08:30:00 -0800 From: Adam Clever Subject: 351M/400 calibration specs the hood sticker in my '79 bronco oh so conveniently has a hinge-sweep scar right through the calibration number. All that's left is: "D ... (scar) ... GA." I want to figure out what is the exact appropriate EGR valve and orifice diameter. The 'original' EGR did not have the information on the valve. Any advice, any Ford bible/encyclopedias out there? I have the distributor and original carburetor tag numbers, they are the same for the first four characters: "D9TE," then go their own ways. Also, my vacuum diagram is "AFF" version. I do not have a sticker on either rocker cover and there is no indication on the door jamb. anyone? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 12:08:23 -0600 From: "Dennis K. Austin" Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #34 You didn't say what brand of gas you are buying. I remember the same problem on a big 477 Ford using Exxon Gas. Shell or Texaco didn't cause this to happen. - -=DENNIS=- > ------------------------------ > > Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:49:41 -0700 > From: "Dave Resch" > Subject: 351M Pinging & Dieseling > > Yo Dudes: > > Help! I need some advice. > > My low compression 351M (8.0:1 factory spec CR) now consistently demands 92 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 15:07:43 -0500 From: "MICHAEL THOMAS" Subject: Hesitation, and thanks! Hi to all- I first want to thank all of those who have helped a young and dumb one (such as myself). The Carbon and suffering problem has been conqured. A new coil and a hooter heat range of spark plugs did the trick. As a matter of fact, I beat all of the doubt given to me by the Ch*vy boys this weekend would be a bust. Well, they were wrong. I put 346 miles in one and a half days on the fresh 400. Now here's the new problem. The truck idles fine. It has hesitation when given full throttle when under load (like 3rd gear 35 mph). It's a slight pop and low power of the motor. It sounds like starvation of fuel and I have replaced the accelerator pump. I wouldn't think idle mix. screw would be it. Maybe power valve? Help! I'm so close!! M. Dustin Thomas mdthomas KB9OGG '77 F150 Ranger 400 cubes '91 G*C Sonoma 4-popper (the Gigantic Mistake) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 13:14:30 -0800 From: "Hogan, Tom" Subject: Re Brake light Daniel, My $.02 worth. If the brake light is coming on I would definately pay attention to it. Yes its purpose is to indicate a difference in pressure between the front and rear braking systems. In some cars/trucks it does come on to indicate the parking/emergency brake is set but not on 73-79's (if I'm wrong on this tell me so I can fix it!!) It could come on indicating a leak in the master cylinder, brake line or wheel cylinder/piston. If the leak is in the MC it may not be visible. In my truck when the MC went out the fluid leaked past the piston into the vacuum booster!!. One thing to try would be to apply the brakes with the engine running and hold them. Does the pedal slowly bleed down to the floor? If so its leaking somewhere. I don't see how heat or extended braking could cause the light to come on unless one of the wheel cylinder/pistons starts leaking when it gets hot. Good luck and I hope you find the problem before you have to do a "Flintstones" style stop!! Tom H San Francisco, California 76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE 96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod) - ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:07:12 -0500 From: am14 Subject: Brake light Daniel: You got a brake problem and it isn't because you continuously braked for 20 minutes. The light comes on when there is a pressure differential between the front and rear systems, or when the emergency brake pedal is pushed. I would say that you either have a leak at one of the wheel cylinders/calipers or that the master cylinder is letting fluid past one of the pistons. A complete check of your brake system is necessary, as this is dangerous. A safety factor you can't ignore. Usually (and I say this cautiously) when the light comes on, and will later go back out, without any repair work being done, it is the master cylinder allowing seepage by one of the pistons. If it is the piston fartherest away from the cowl, it merely gets in the other pistons passage way and is almost undetectable (no visible leakage). You could have a pinhole in a line, but once the light goes on from one of these, it usually stays on. >>Of course, I was always told that the light comeson when there is a difference in pressure between the two braking circuits. All I know is that today I am going to pull my wheels and check the pads and lines. But, does anybody have any idea why my truck is doing this? Good luck. Azie - ------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 14:05:05 -0800 From: Marv Miller Subject: Re: 56 F-100 Subject: Re: Found an awesome truck... Daniel H. Jenkins wrote: > I found a 1956 Ford pickup truck for sale. It has a non-stock (I > think) 429 V8. The truck also has, for all intensive > purposes, no rust. :) The down side is that it isn't exactly put > together. Uhhhhhh, it isn't a BIG window, is it? Is the glass all there? - -- - -Marv- - --- For when the One Great Scorer comes to mark against your name, He writes - not that you won or lost - but how you played the game. Grantland Rice Alumnus Football - 1941 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 17:13:55 -0500 From: Sleddog Subject: RE: 56 F-100 IS IT NEAR EASTERN PA?????? sleddog - ---------- From: Marv Miller[SMTP:ae722 Sent: Monday, January 26, 1998 5:05 PM To: fordtrucks61-79 Subject: Re: 56 F-100 Subject: Re: Found an awesome truck... Daniel H. Jenkins wrote: > I found a 1956 Ford pickup truck for sale. It has a non-stock (I > think) 429 V8. The truck also has, for all intensive > purposes, no rust. :) The down side is that it isn't exactly put > together. Uhhhhhh, it isn't a BIG window, is it? Is the glass all there? - -- - -Marv- - --- For when the One Great Scorer comes to mark against your name, He writes - not that you won or lost - but how you played the game. Grantland Rice Alumnus Football - 1941 +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 | List removal information is on the web site. | +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 14:13:30 PST From: "Harry Jennings" Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #43 > MOPAR V10 [am14 >Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:50:16 -0500 >From: am14 >Subject: MOPAR V10 > >>>>>Dodges V-10 is a tuned down viper motor and there have been tuners >out >there pumping out 700 plus horses with them! > >Vipers have aluminum heads. Dodge trucks are cast iron. Not quite the >same. Also use different cams - valves - exhaust and intake >manifolds. >Bolt patterns are the same. > >Azie > Viper V-10s are ALL aluminum. The heads and intake are VERY different. Not to mention the cam, pistons, etc. But, yes, the blocks come from the same casting (just that the truck block is iron). And to make this OK on a Ford site, anyone here anything about the new Ford V-10 lately? Harry. ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 18:06:34 EST From: CandyDMan Subject: Re: 460 ex manifolds For bracketing on the 460s, check out Lincolns. I used the alternaor and Powersteering brackets from a Continental for the 460 in my 70 F250 4x4. Of course both brackets had to be used because the alternator bracket uses only the inner pulley which does not line up with the fan-currently I'm using the powersteering pump as an idler pulley for the fan(need to find the power steering box). The other thing about the Continental powersteering bracket is that is also part of the bracket for the A/C. I'm not using it yet, so I'm not sure if it will work exactly, the steering shaft looks like it might be a little close. Dennis ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 17:23:15 -0600 From: "Dale and Donna Carmine" Subject: Re: Brakes Part 3 Dana said; >Good thing they never told and I never asked when they were mounted so when they >need replacement in a year or so they should be free?????? Good luck Dana! My experience with warranties has been really bad. They are all prorated which means you only get credit for the miles left on your tires under the warranty. They will use the full list price when figuring this. My experience with batteries and tires has been that unless the item is really new you are better off buying a new item on sale than using what little warranty credit they will allow you. The warranty is a sales tool to get you to buy the item and hopefully to come back and buy another one later. IMO except for the protection provided against defects on new items the warranty isn't worth the paper it's printed on. 100% replacement warranties on items like mufflers are an entirely different matter and are a good deal......make sure you keep the paperwork! later, Dale Carmine '79 F-150 351M York, Nebraska ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 20:24:14 EST From: OldTrux Subject: Re: P/s things In a message dated 98-01-26 11:42:34 EST, you write: > I bought a box,and pump from a junk yard for $45. I would be interested if you had the brackets to mount the pump to my 352 (390 is the same) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 18:07:24 -0800 From: "Deacon" Subject: New 5.0 Head Hi Gang! A friend and I were talking the other day and he said he had read in a magazine (I think he said MM&FF) that he just received in the mail, that has a new 4 valve semi hemispherical bolt-on head for a 302. Has anyone seen anything on this head? It was big bucks. He was saying the pushrod activated a lever that operated the two corresponding valves. The flow increase was around double that of the stock heads. Later! Deacon Blues deconblu ================================================ Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/ http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 21:17:09 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: ADMIN: MAJOR MILESTONE!! Tonight at 8:55pm Ford Truck Enthusiasts hit a major milestone: 100,000 visitors!!! Thanks to everyone for making us a success! Ken & Peggy Payne Admins, Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 20:10:02 -0500 From: Brian Subject: Re: 460 ex manifolds Well I found a motor at a boneyard laying on its side..both manifolds still there. So I grabbed them, their in great shape. Ran them through my bead blaster...little flat black high temp paint... and there on the truck !! Now for the scary part....they fit fine !! no modifying of anything...except the pipe hook ups. Some days are good !!! Brian ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 19:14:55 -0700 From: "Michael Connor" Subject: Re: ADMIN: MAJOR MILESTONE!! Ken & Peggy, Congratulations! I for one appreciate your efforts, and I really enjoy the list. Thanks for everything.:-) Mike Phoenix, AZ. >Tonight at 8:55pm Ford Truck Enthusiasts hit a major milestone: >100,000 visitors!!! Thanks to everyone for making us a success! > >Ken & Peggy Payne >Admins, Ford Truck Enthusiasts >http://www.ford-trucks.com >+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ >| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 >| List removal information is on the web site. | >+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 18:24:24 -0800 From: danadeb Subject: Re: Rear Bearings Gary, 78 BBB wrote: > > I just > used a coffee can with about a pint (maybe up to a quart) of gas NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER use gas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I wanted to burn some old documents in the fire place in my house. I did not want to start a big roaring wood fire so I thought that if I put a little gas on it then all of the paper would burn. I put about 4 tablespoons of gas on the stack of papers then went for a match. I lit the match about 2 feet away from the fireplace and when I was about 18 inches away from the fireplace opening........ WOOOOOF....... the fumes ignited and a flash of flame was all I saw. no harm done but I now have the proper respect for gas. there are many much less volatile cleaners that do just as good a job. > in > it and kept the lid on it to reduce fumes in the garage since I was > using an oil furnace for heat and was very carefull not to spill it. Sorry There is no way to be careful enough!!!!!!!! > This amount of gas cleaned all my hub parts and 4 bearings as well as > most of the bearings and parts in the dana diff and other > miscellaneous parts as I re-assembled the dana. > Dana ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 21:24:52 -0500 From: shoman Subject: Re: ADMIN: MAJOR MILESTONE!! Congrats...Both of you deserve a ROUND OF APPLAUSE!!!!! Great Job on the sight... Joe 68 F100 69 F250 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 19:35:24 -0800 From: marko Subject: Re: Hesitation, and thanks! At 03:07 PM 1/26/98 -0500, you wrote: >Hi to all- > >I first want to thank all of those who have helped a young and dumb >one (such as myself). The Carbon and suffering problem has been >conqured. A new coil and a hooter heat range of spark plugs did the >trick. As a matter of fact, I beat all of the doubt given to me by >the Ch*vy boys >this weekend would be a bust. Well, they were wrong. I put 346 >miles in one and a half days on the fresh 400. > >Now here's the new problem. The truck idles fine. It has >hesitation when given full throttle when under load (like 3rd gear >35 mph). It's a slight pop and low power of the motor. It sounds >like starvation of fuel and I have replaced the accelerator pump. I >wouldn't think idle mix. screw would be it. >Maybe power valve? Help! I'm so close!! > > > >M. Dustin Thomas >mdthomas >KB9OGG I still think it's probly the power valve. The 'pop' is leanness usually. It may be that your accelerator pump actuates TOO MUCH from idle to slightly open, and has no more room to actuate from partly open to WOT. I don't think it's the idle screw either. marko ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 20:06:42 -0800 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re: Power Steering Conversion BDIJXS wrote: > > Don, > > I see where you will be switching to a 77 front end. I have an almost new set > (complete, about 1800 miles on them) of tie rods for the 77 F-150 4x4....are > you interested? Includes pitman arm. Is that the Y- stuff? I will go with the t-style linkage or aftermarket adjustable. > I have made the same P/S conversion myself, the only hassle (69 F100 4x4) is > you need to cut a small hole in the back of the frame in order to mount the > front bolt on (with a socket) the 77 power steering unit. You can drill > through the frame for the other two, but you'll want to put at least a 1/4" > plate on the back to stiffen up this area.... I am going to use the frame boxing pieces off the 77 as well and will have to drill ALL the holes for everything :( I have a stiffer set of coils but was thinking of lowering the spring buckets 1-2", anyone been here or done that? > I then put on one of the newer- > style black steering wheels since the bus-sized one wasn't needed any > more....it slipped right on to the old column. Already have an old Grant on there now so when I get to the interior I may upgrade just a little. > The other thing I had to do was > modify the shaft from the u-joint to the steering box to accept a new rag (or > plastic) joint, I think the shaft had to be shortened. You might then have to > adjust the steering stops so your tires don't rub on the front axle support > arms.... That will be the ez part > Good luck, > > Colorado Jeff Thanks CJ - -- Don Grossman duckdon 63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 20:08:02 -0800 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re: P/s things OldTrux wrote: > > In a message dated 98-01-26 11:42:34 EST, you write: > > > I bought a box,and pump from a junk yard for $45. > > I would be interested if you had the brackets to mount the pump to my 352 (390 > is the same) Just make sure that they are the truck brackets. - -- Don Grossman duckdon 63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 21:25:13 PST From: "Dave Walbeck" Subject: F350 4x4's Hello again, Bill is correct. There were NO F350 4x4's Built until 1977 1/2-1978. I have every shop manual from 73-79 and there is no such a thing. It's either a conversion, badging, or who knows what. Dave Complete and Total FORDNUT & Highboy nut too!!!! ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 22:59:33 -0800 From: marko Subject: Re: Hesitation, and thanks! Dustin, I was thinking one thing and wrote another. I DON'T think it's the power valve, I think it's the accelerator pump. My typing mistake! marko > >I still think it's probly the power valve. NO, I meant "accelerator pump". The 'pop' is leanness usually. >It may be that your accelerator pump actuates TOO MUCH from idle to slightly >open, and has no more room to actuate from partly open to WOT. I don't >think it's the idle screw either. > > > >marko > >+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ >| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 >| List removal information is on the web site. | >+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 00:02:36 -0800 From: "Deacon" Subject: Re: Hesitation, and thanks! >Dustin, I was thinking one thing and wrote another. I DON'T think it's the >power valve, I think it's the accelerator pump. My typing mistake! > > >marko I agree with you marko, but I have a question. The accelerator pump not working would be the first thought. Lets say the accelerator pump was set too high. Would too much fuel entering the intake. puddle and cause a lean out situation? Just a thought! Later. Deacon Blues deconblu ================================================ Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/ http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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