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Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 11:35:55 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #35
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Friday, January 23 1998 Volume 02 : Number 035



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: 351M Pinging & Dieseling ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Carbs ?? [Brian & Jacque ]
Re: Door problems... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Carbs ?? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: Ford 454 and Edelbrock manifolds for FE [BULL229 ]
Re: Carbs ?? ["Michael Connor" ]
Re: Carpet Installation [BDIJXS ]
ignition timing [DC Beatty ]
Re: Door problems... ["Michael Connor" ]
Frame Paint [RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com]
Re: Door problems... ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: Door problems... or my arch has fallen [Don Grossman
[none] [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Door problems... [Keith Srb ]
Re: rear springs 82 F100 - out of year, but I prefer this list ["Gary, 78]
intake manifolds [Stu Varner ]
454 Stroker [Stu Varner ]
Marko 410 [Stu Varner ]
Re: 454 Stroker [John MacNamara ]
RE: 454 Ford [Sleddog ]
Re: Dupont Imron & Dangerous Chemicals [Keith Srb ]
Re: Dupont Imron [Keith Srb ]
Re: Door problems... [BADFORD4x4 ]
Mixing & matching [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Ford 454 and Edelbrock manifolds for FE [BADFORD4x4
RE FE better than 385 series? [Sleddog ]
Re: Marko 410 [BADFORD4x4 ]
Re: Camper Specials ["Dave Resch"]
427 W/428 crank [am14 chrysler.com]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 07:54:10 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 351M Pinging & Dieseling

> From: "Dave Resch"
> Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:49:41 -0700
> Subject: 351M Pinging & Dieseling

> The engine is in a 1980 F250 w/ thermactor and EGR. It is
> essentially the same as any other 351M from 1977 to 1979. The
> engine's got 160K miles since a rebuild now, but it's acted like
> this since it had just 60K miles on it. It has the stock cam and
> 0.030 overbore cast pistons.

Dieseling is due to throttle adjustment. You have probably taken the
dash pot out of the linkage or it no longer works. This is required
to allow it to idle but still shut the throttle plate completely when
the key is off.

Spark knock can be carbon or hot plugs but it can also be non working
EGR, vacuum leak etc.. First make sure the PCV is hooked up right
and working, then take off the EGR plate and clean it and make sure
the needle operates freely and the vac will operate it. Check the
carb gaskets for a good seal when you put it all back together. If
you run an aftermarket Holley or similar you can tune this out in the
carb but if you run a stock carb all this has to work to get the
right mixture to prevent pinging.

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 07:39:16 -0500
From: Brian & Jacque
Subject: Re: Carbs ??

danadeb pacbell.net wrote:
>
> I think no manifolds is a problem waiting to happen. I have driven a 289 without
> any tail pipes to a muffler shop, It was only real loud when the throttle was
> open alot.
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
Ok..I guess its best not to test fire the beast :(

For those of you out there with 460's in your trucks...Can you give me
some info on what manifolds to use. I remember seeing something a while
back about car type will work for the passenger side but you need a
truck manifold for the drivers side ??

The application is for my '64 f100 2wheel drive. I'm getting real close
to firing up the engine. Its driving me nuts wanting to see if it
works...and how it will sound.

Thanks again....Brian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 08:52:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Door problems...

> From: "Terry Sherman"
> Subject: Door problems...
> Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 15:19:07 -0600

> My passenger side door opens fine from the outside but the inside
> handle is stuck or something, usually won't work, is very stiff. Any
> suggestions? I have a 76 Ford Highboy Thank you,

When I got my bronco I had to take the door panel off and clean and
lube everything. It was all caked up with dried grease so nothing
worked. I just kept spraying wd40 and working all the controls till
it started working then I loosened the bolts and adjusted the window
tracks so it would operate right. Once all that is done spray
silicone spary on the edges of the windows and in the tracks and it
will be like new again.

On the latch I found that part of the mechanism had worn so I bent a
few things to get it to operate the latch again. Some day I wil have
to take it out and weld up the worn areas but it works ok for now.


Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 08:38:35 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Carbs ??

> From: "Michael Connor"
> Subject: Re: Carbs ??
> Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 19:55:47 -0700

> hot exhaust gases flow past the exhaust valves, heating them up.
> With no exhaust manifolds or pipes, cool air will be sucked in when
> the engine revs down. This rush of cool air onto a hot exhaust valve
> could cause the valve to warp. Dunno how true it really is, but not
> worth the gamble to me to find out.

I've heard the same thing but it's when you shut it off and there is
no exhaust flowing that the cool air comes in. If you just fire it
up to see if it will start that's one thing but I wouldn't let it run
more than half a minute at a time for the above reason. You could
probably let it idle all day and not hurt it a bit but revving it
causes the exhaust temps to rise draamatically so would pose a
problem for sure.

Remember that you should start a fresh engine and let it run for 20
minutes at 2k rpm to break in the cam and lifters without shutting it
down or reving it so you need the manifolds on as a minimum I should
think. The cam needs a high volume of oil when you first run it to
break it in and prevent scoring which will shorten it's life.

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:40:56 EST
From: BULL229
Subject: RE: Ford 454 and Edelbrock manifolds for FE

I am building one of these strokers right now for a 70 Mustang. For a truck I
wouldn't recommend it, just because of the added cost. But it works out nice,
the bore/stroke relationship is closer on a 454, allowing for a little more
stable piston. Of course, with more stroker you will lose a little RPM, but
it should make more power down low. Custom pistons, 427 bore, with 428 pin
height are required, as well as a 428 flywheel or internal balance. For a
truck, I'd add the extra money to a 428 and forget the 427, since 427 blocks
run from 1500-3000, but for a hot street car it makes quite a motor. BTW, I
run a warmed over 428 in my 70 F-100 4WD shortbed, makes a great truck motor,
spins 6000 rpm, but you can almost pull it down to count the cyl firing when
pulling a trailer.

ALSO, RE: Edelbrock, I do not think the Performer is worth a darn, makes less
power than stock, and cost almost 300 dollars, only good thing is a
substantial weight savings. I ran a Performer and a 428 PI and the mid range
difference was phenomenal, without losing any low end. I assume the Performer
RPM will be ok, but IMHO dont waste any money on a std performer.

Hope this helps - Ross

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 08:13:11 -0700
From: "Michael Connor"
Subject: Re: Carbs ??

Brian,

I think you may have it backwards. For my application,
(77F250 4WD) the car type fit fine on the drivers side,
but I used a truck manifold for the passenger side. I
studied several 460 swaps that others had done before doing mine.
Most all of the guys who used a car manifold on the passenger
side had to cut a notch out of the passenger side frame rail to get it
to clear. The problem with the car manifold is that it exits down, but
outward, whereas the truck manifold exits straight off the back of
the manifold. Can't speak for the guys with older trucks. all the
swaps I studied were from the 77-79 models. BTW, the passenger
side truck manifold was pretty difficult for me to find. I went to
MANY wrecking yards here in the Phoenix area before finally finding
one. Once I found it, it was cheap ($20) but finding one was a chore.
I'm looking for another just for a spare, in case this one should ever
crack.
Ford wanted $411 for a new one.

Hope this helps,

Mike


> For those of you out there with 460's in your trucks...Can you give me
>some info on what manifolds to use. I remember seeing something a while
>back about car type will work for the passenger side but you need a
>truck manifold for the drivers side ??
>
> The application is for my '64 f100 2wheel drive. I'm getting real close
>to firing up the engine. Its driving me nuts wanting to see if it
>works...and how it will sound.
>
> Thanks again....Brian
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:10:13 EST
From: BDIJXS
Subject: Re: Carpet Installation

Just a quick comment on the proposed carpet installation. I would really try
to avoid gluing any carpet to the floor....this is inviting a quick rust hole
(believe me, I had one about a foot round in my 69). My solution was to
install carpet under the seat and install the seat, and then a separate mat
over the front floorboard that gets all the traffic, something which I could
easily remove and clean the junk that accumulates on the floorboard. I then
cut a carpet to fit over the mat, again coming up only to the front of the
seat so it can be easily removed. My rational for having a mat under the
carpet was to keep the damp carpet away from the floorboard, and just be sure
to periodically clean things up....

Hope this helps,

Colorado Jeff
bdijxs aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:16:17 -0500
From: DC Beatty
Subject: ignition timing

Hello list and happy anniversary!!

It was tune-up time for the old '67 F100. I installed the points &
condenser & gapped the points to .017. I had forgotten what a pain breake=
r
points were. Anyway, I am at 6000 or so feet above sea level, and I have
forgotten the formula for timing in higher altitudes. Does anybody know
this formula?

The Chilton book said 6 BTDC so I tuned it to 10 and it ran terrible--no
power, hard to start, etc. I checked the points again this morning and th=
ey
were fine, so I just timed it by ear. I know it's gotta be way off of the=

specified setting though, but it runs like normal now. Anybody have any
ideas on what I am doing wrong?

That electronic ignition is sounding real nice.

Thanks for any help,

DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 08:27:31 -0700
From: "Michael Connor"
Subject: Re: Door problems...

Greg,


>Actual it is a FORD truck term. They sold a "highboy" model with a factory
>lift above the normal four wheel drive model. It was an option that was
>availible in the seventies( up to 76 I think?).


There were actually a few 77 Highboy's sold. these were actually the last of
the
Highboys. Ford manufactured the 77 until the end of March of 77, then
started
manufacturing the 771/2 series. These were manufactured with the lower
suspension, hence the birth of the Lowboy, the 771/2-79 series. My 77 F250
shows a manufactured date of February, 77 and it is the Highboy series.

Hope this helps,

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:46:45 -0500
From: RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com
Subject: Frame Paint

Hello All,

I have finished two frames, one with emron and the other
with chassis black from Eastwood Co. The MOST importain
thing to remember is prep! The paint won't stick if the
prep is bad. Sandblast the frame, use an acid wash before
primer, use a good quality primer and paint. The frame I
did with emron lasted 5 years(then I sold it) but, it is a
very tough paint. Take the advise of others and protect your
self from this stuff, it is very dangerious! My second project
I blasted the frame(pressure blaster) washed it with a dupont
acid wash, primed it with corrless(Eastwood Co.) and painted
it with chassis black. It looks great, time will tell. (its
just a frame now and it will be a long time before its on the road.)


Rich

54 F100


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 07:47:39 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Door problems...

High boy refers to the 70-76 Ford 4x4s. I believe the leaf springs were
arched differently. In 1977 Ford changed the type of springs they were
using to lower the trucks a little. You can definitely tell the difference
when you see them.

- ----------
> From: danadeb pacbell.net
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: Door problems...
> Date: Thursday, January 22, 1998 10:03 PM
>
> > Terry Sherman wrote:
> >
> > I have a 76 Ford Highboy
>
>
> What is a "highboy"?
>
> Easy Deacon!
>
> I really have no idea what this is referring to.
>
> Thanks
> Dana
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 07:54:25 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Door problems... or my arch has fallen

>
> >What is a "highboy"?
> >
> >Easy Deacon!
> >
> >I really have no idea what this is referring to.
> >
> >Thanks
> >Dana
>
> What! Do you think I always have a wise crack for these wide open doors
> of opportunity? OK, so maybe I do. I'll stay away from this one though. It
> offers too much chance to get in trouble. :)
> It would be my guess it refers to a lifted truck. It's also a Hot
> Rodders term but would not apply to trucks.
>
> Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net

The "highboys" do ride higher from the factory than the 77 1/2 and up.
Mid year 77 Ford changed the chassis design and the arch of the front
spring went from positive to a negative arch.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 07:51:40 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: [none]

>>
>> I have a 76 Ford Highboy

>What is a "highboy"?
>
>Easy Deacon!
>
>I really have no idea what this is referring to.


I think the term "highboy" may refer to the driver, not the truck.

Steve

"Laws do not persuade merely because they threaten."
-- Seneca, AD 65

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:39:07 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: Door problems...

At 03:19 PM 1/22/98 -0600, you wrote:

>>>>

My passenger side door opens fine from the outside but
the inside handle is stuck or something, usually won't work, is very
stiff. Any suggestions? I have a 76 Ford Highboy

Thank you,

Terry Sherman

'76 Ford Highboy...

'84 Ford Bronco II





I had this happen on my 74 F250. In my case I ended up making a spacer
and placing it between the handle and the door. It looked like there was
a spacer there to begin with. Anyway, this seems to bring the lever back
into it's proper operating range. Wish I could remember more of the
lever/fulcrum stuff I learned in school.


Hope that helps.




Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie

Mesa, AZ

1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi
5-Speed.

1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.

1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long
Box, Style Side.

1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner,

Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.

My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"




------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 11:49:57 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: rear springs 82 F100 - out of year, but I prefer this list

> Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 16:23:31 -0500
> From: Randy Dees
> Subject: rear springs 82 F100 - out of year, but I prefer this list

> I have an 82 F100 with a broken leaf on the right side. As I intend
> to use this vehicle for towing, I have to get it repaired.

As already posted this is not too hard to fix. You can mix and match
leaf springs but should try to find replacements that have a similar
arc and hole position to the original to avoid changing your ride
height. There is a special bolt that holds them together but I've
used ordinary hex head bolts of various spec's from hardware, grade 5
and grade 8's with grade 5 being the preferred grade here. The
spring perch has a recess in it that will allow the bolt head to fit
without interferance in the one's I've looked at or worked on. This
bolt keeps the leafs together but it also keeps them aligned once
installed so a grade 5 should be used here and a good self locking
nut as well IMHO :-)

If you really want to do a nice job find some teflon sheeting and put
it between each leaf for a better ride. I keep meaning to do this
but haven't looked very hard for the material so never have any
around when I work on them :-(

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:59:09 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: intake manifolds

Hey Decon,

Jim Dove up in Columbia Station Ohio bought all of the old FE
casting equipment and produces basically everything in aluminum....he is
also very expensive. They are the finest FE parts known to mankind!!

The 4V low riser intake you are looking from him ( part No. DOVE-9424-c-a
) made in aluminum and from the original factory molds, Are you sittin?
$575.00 If I had about $6100.oo I'd let the man build me 390 that spits
out 450 HP. He calls this his Budget econo motor. I think he has no
concept of my budget!
When the top of the line, custom built 427 stroked to 575CID SOHC
(Single Overhead Cam Motor) , approx. 1,000 hp, naturally aspirated, is
only $41,250.00 BTW, he also does custom work which i am sure is a little
more expensive than the best motor he has to offer.
But since I am not independently wealthy because I have taken a vow of
poverty as a teacher, I will never even be allowed to see one let alone
stuff one in my truck!! So sad! Power for the priveledged.......reckon I
need to have my mother-in-law start giving my wife her inheitance a little
early.........

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 11:03:09 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: 454 Stroker

I'd be interested inhearing about the 454 FE stroker!! May I have a copy
please? Thank you. STU

Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 11:04:30 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Marko 410

I think your 410 is going to be a Baby 428FE.......A real snot slinger!
Stu

Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:19:47 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: 454 Stroker

Stu Varner wrote:
>
> I'd be interested inhearing about the 454 FE stroker!! May I have a copy
> please? Thank you. STU

Stu: I'm home today working on the mustang so I will send it to you
Monday. Ok!


>
> Nuke GM!
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 20:53:18 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 454 Ford

well . . .

i do not remember all of the specifics on the swap. it is not a no-brainer
swap, but it has been done enough that there has to be some info on it
somewhere, and somone who is a FE fanatic should know. i had a book from
pat ganhal (i think he was the author) from i lent it out and haven't seen
it for a long time. i think it was also mentioned in it.

i don't know the recipe as far as the rod length, piston pin height, etc.
but i am sure that it would run close to a 460 with a similiar cam and if
both have heads of "equal ability". the FE has many head choices, and in
fact the tunnel port heads most likely outflow the standard 460 head with
CJ valves. now, these days it would be alot cheaper to build the 460, and
if over 800 hp is the goal i personally would use the 460. there are just
many more parts available, and who would want to grenade a rare 427 block
or an expensive engine. the FE is a stong, reliable, and sturdy engine,
but any engine pushed to the limits might "snap".

i am sure though, that now it would be very expensive to do this build, as
the 427 blocks are getting scarce, and the long stroke cranks (428) are
also getting rare. one of the other blocks may work (428?, 390?) if you
have the block sonic tested for cyl. wall thickness and find one with
enough meat, but i understand it was the "squarish" cylinder liners in the
427 that allowed the big bore. maybe another block could be sleeved and
3/4 concreted to use the big bore.

would the tires stay on? hell, where would be the fun in that? :)

there is a local truck puller here who is rumoured to have a 427 with a 428
crank. noone knows for sure, but if it ain't an over 450 cube motor, that
FE sure thinks it is the way it runs!

sleddog



- ----------
From: marko maryniak[SMTP:marko helix.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 1998 8:13 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: RE: 454 Ford

>yes, it make about 454 cubes and is one old rodders trick used to beat the
bowties for many years!!
>
Hey Sleddog,

How would one of these things run? How would it compare with, say, a 460?
Would it be reliable, and would the 428 crank bolt right in? What kind of
cam would you use? How much power would it make?

And could you keep tires on your car if you had one of them? ;-)

marko







+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:49:54 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: Dupont Imron & Dangerous Chemicals

Snip


>Typically the best type paint systems are used on air planes. Most of the

>time these utilize polyester urethanes where as the automotive industry

>uses acrylic urethanes. Even so, depending on the formulation there are

>many variables in each paint. Although these systems can be more durable

>than systems used in the automotive industry often they have

>characteristics that are not very desirable. The primary problem is longer

>dry times and being very difficult touch up. Even though they are

>outstanding products, it would take a dedicated auto body man to shoot a

>car and leave it in a dust free environment for 8 to 72 hours. After this

>is done then he finds out that panel repair is almost impossible.


That is why I wet sanded the color coat and then applied the Clear Coat. Wet Sanded the Clear and then buffed it out. A lot of work yes, but in my opinion it well worth the effort. You end up with a finish that is smooth as glass and reflects the light almost as well as a mirror. It would be a little bit tuff to do this on a frame. Which I think we were talking about painting a frame at the start of this.


Panel repair is possible, difficult yes, but it is possible. You have to repaint the entire panel.




>Randy Collins

>Boise, Idaho

>rcollins micron.net

>

>>> Industrial Coatings Guy

>N.A.C.E. Coatings Inspector #3902

>(National Association of Corrosion Engineers)

>



Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie

Mesa, AZ

1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi
5-Speed.

1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.

1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long
Box, Style Side.

1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner,

Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.

My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"




------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:56:42 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: Dupont Imron

At 02:09 PM 1/22/98 -0500, you wrote:

>On Thu, 22 Jan 1998, Keith Srb wrote:

>

>> Snip

>

>> I painted one of my cars that I owned back in the 80's with Imron. Two

>> years after the car was painted you could take your finger nail and make

>> an impression in the paint, I made sure I didn't break the surface.

>> After a few minutes the impression was gone. If I remember right, from

>> my body shop days, Imron is meant to say somewhat flexible. This helps

>> the paint resist rock chips. I think they use Imron on single engine

>> aircraft as well. In the 80's I think Dupont had a 10 year no fade

>> guarantee also.

>

>Imron is also what's used to paint jumbo-jets. Anyone know if you

>*have* to use DuPont's primer to use Imron? The paint shop where I'm

>going to buy my Imron (for my Broncos) also sells Spies paint (it's German

>and pronounced "shpEEs") and primer and the Spies primer can sit exposed

>to the atmosphere for up to six months before being painted, whereas

>DuPont's won't last more than a day or two before soaking up water. I'd

>like to use the Spies primer and Imron paint, but I don't want it flaking

>off in a year or too. The paint shop says it'll probably work though

>neither manufacturer would recommend it. Of course not - they want to

>sell their own product. Any ideas?

>Thanks!

>

>-Jason


When I painted my Car, I used Dupont products exclusively. It worked good for me, but the car was inside the body shop most of the time.


Are you sure both those products are primers? To me it also most sound like the Spies paint is more a sealer instead of a primer?


Later



Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie

Mesa, AZ

1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi
5-Speed.

1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.

1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long
Box, Style Side.

1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner,

Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.

My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"




------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:50:47 EST
From: BADFORD4x4
Subject: Re: Door problems...

A highboy is a f250 or 350 that sits about 3 inches tall the the reagular
factory truck that ford put out.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:53:25 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Mixing & matching

Sleddog: What you mean by this???????? I don't get it!!!!!!

>Amazing what you can build if you just mix up a coupla things. I can
only
imagine if you took a C block and put a C crank in it. Is that
possible?

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:57:15 EST
From: BADFORD4x4
Subject: Re: Ford 454 and Edelbrock manifolds for FE

How do you feel about the proformer RPM? That has the same port sizes as the
Ford 4V intake.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 13:02:40 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE FE better than 385 series?

ok, i admit the FE isn't a boat anchor, but the 460 is a better engineered
engine and i have personnally seen big 460's (over 500 cubes stroked) turn
beyond the 9000 rpm mark usually reserved only for small blocks. a 460 can
be be built to make over 800 hp on pump gas. an extremely expensive
alternative is an FE.

so, obviously, you never ran WFO with a hot 460. :)


Obviously the 460 can't match the sheer horsepower but it wasn't
designed to rev like the FE.

FE rules!!!

Regards:
John MacNamara


WFO - Wide F $#%(* Open.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 13:03:28 EST
From: BADFORD4x4
Subject: Re: Marko 410

I'm thinking of bluiding a 410 engine for my 75 F100 4x4. I'm looking for a
engine that builds low end power. Do you think this is the engine for me? I
hope you can help me with this one.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 11:01:44 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Camper Specials

>From: danadeb pacbell.net
>
>My 70 is a "Camper Special" also ( not XLT though ) but it
>might have been a dealer installed item.
Yo Dana, et al:

When I was a kid, my dad had two F250 Camper Specials, a '67 and a '72. He
special ordered both of these trucks new from the dealer. The Camper
Special was a factory option package, separate from the trim level (Custom,
Ranger XLT, etc.). It was similar to the modern "Trailer/Towing" packages.
The exact contents of the package may have varied from year to year.

I seem to recall on my dad's trucks (both Customs), that the CS package
included an HD battery, bigger alternator, HD cooling (bigger radiator),
and maybe heavier-duty rear springs or extra overloads or something. I
think it also included the "West Coast" style mirrors, which were the big
rectangular jobs with all the tubular braces on the door of the truck (like
an old big rig). I think at least one (maybe both) of the trucks had a
little chrome badge that said "Camper Special," which was also
factory-supplied.

>The aux gas tank hole through the bottom of the bed floor
>appears to have been cut with a torch and the switch for the
>gas tanks has 6 or so wires coming from it but only 3 are used.

I think the dual tank option was also separate from the Camper Special
package. Yours may have been retrofitted by a previous owner.
....


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