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Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 03:50:33 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #34
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Friday, January 23 1998 Volume 02 : Number 034



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Door problems... [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: FE intake blues [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
351M Pinging & Dieseling ["Dave Resch"]
RE: FE stew [Sleddog ]
RE: Dana 44 update II and Frame Painting [Sleddog ]
Re: FE stew ["Bill Beyer" ]
New Carpet [Impala502 ]
Re: New Carpet [ECampb5214 ]
Re: FE intake blues ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: vinegar, bat'ries, thermo housings [JRFiero ]
Re: New Carpet [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
RE: 454 Ford [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Carbs ?? [Brian & Jacque ]
Re: 454 Ford [John MacNamara ]
Re: Disc brake 9" rear end [GMPACHECO ]
Re: Carbs ?? [Mike Schwall ]
Re: Carbs ?? [A64F100 ]
Re: Carbs ?? ["Michael Connor" ]
Re: 351M Pinging & Dieseling ["Jason K. Schechner" ]
Re: FE stew and the Deacon too [Don Grossman ]
Re: Dupont Imron & Dangerous Chemicals [Randy Collins
Re: 454 Ford [marko ]
Re: Door problems... [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: rear springs 82 F100 - out of year, but I prefer this list [danadeb p]
Re: 351M Pinging & Dieseling [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: New Carpet [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Carbs ?? [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Door problems... ["Deacon" ]
Re: Door problems... [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Door problems... ["Greg Charney" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 13:46:58 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Door problems...

>My passenger side door opens fine from the outside but the inside handle is
stuck or something, usually won't work, is very stiff. Any suggestions? I
have a 76 Ford Highboy
>Thank you,
> Terry Sherman

Get some dry graphite spray lube or some of that sticky chain lube spray
for motorbikes. Take your inner door panel off and lubricate all the moving
parts of the door opening mechanism. I know they're a bit hard to see.
Also, lube the catch in the door which the pin on the door pillar engages.
You can do this with grease or graphite. Grease is more tenacious, graphite
is much easier on your clothing.

Don't use WD 40 or CRC 5-51 cause they will just dilute whatever grease is
left on there from before. This'll work fine for a coupla weeks then your
problem will be back worse than before.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 13:54:00 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: FE intake blues

>Sorry if you get this twice.
>
>Hi gang!
> Well I'm starting on my '76 F350 and one of the things I wanted to do
>was install an aftermarket intake and carburetor. I e-mailed my good friend
>and fellow list member Steve Delanty about the Edelbrock intake. I know he
>had problems with his and I've also read of others having trouble with
>theirs, but the 50 state legal was still a selling point that made it worth
>looking into. Unfortunately my truck has an EGR and Edelbrock intakes are
>not EGR equipped. I would thank Steve for this valuable information but he
>seemed to enjoy giving it to me so much, I feel the enjoyment he received is
>thanks enough. :)
> Before I give in to disappointment, I wish to ask the list if they know
>of an aftermarket intake / carburetor combination that is CARB approved for
>an FE360 with EGR.
> Second choice will be a stock FE390 4v intake with an Edelbrock carb.
>Then there's my third choice of just rebuilding what I have. :(
>Later!
>
Apparently the stock 4bbl manifold is very good, and doesn't have any of the
problems of the E-broke with carb flange issues. I heard you can get
aluminum intakes cast from the original 60's molds. Somebody on the list
said this. And I suppose if nobody on the list replies, you could get hold
of Ford Power Parts and find out.

By the way, there is a guy in central California (Venolia?) named Dave
Nettles who runs a performance shop. He seems a little gung-ho but has lots
of used parts for sale. His email is dnettles2 juno.com and his shop's name
is Fenders'n'Heads. The URL for his shop's website is
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.1-888.com/DNpage/index1.html. You might be able to find
something interesting there for a low cost. And he's in California, so he'd
know about your smog rules.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:49:41 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: 351M Pinging & Dieseling

Yo Dudes:

Help! I need some advice.

My low compression 351M (8.0:1 factory spec CR) now consistently demands 92
octane premium gas to keep it from pinging (pretty bad!) and dieseling
run-on when I shut it off. (BTW: I live in Colorado at around 5400 ft MSL
altitude, so 85 octane should work just fine when there's nothing else
going on.)

The engine is in a 1980 F250 w/ thermactor and EGR. It is essentially the
same as any other 351M from 1977 to 1979. The engine's got 160K miles
since a rebuild now, but it's acted like this since it had just 60K miles
on it. It has the stock cam and 0.030 overbore cast pistons.

On lower octane gas (85 or 87) it pings really bad under moderate-to-hard
acceleration. You have to really nurse it to keep from pinging w/ low
octane. The dieseling is pretty bad w/ low octane, too, w/ at least 3 or 4
"chugs" after the key is switched off.

I have the base timing advanced just 2 degrees from factory spec (12 BTDC
now), but that can't be so much that it causes the pinging (can it?).
Seemed like it pinged pretty bad even when the timing was way retarded from
spec (0 TDC).

The combination of pinging and dieseling leads me to guess that the heads
and piston tops are carboned up pretty bad. Sound right to you? The
baffling thing is, every time I pull the plugs they are really clean w/ no
trace of fouling or excess carbon (that would indicate rich running).

Otherwise, this engine runs great. Decent oil pressure, no overheating, no
visible smoke in the exhaust, no other obvious problems....

Thanks.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 17:12:17 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FE stew

yes, it make about 454 cubes and is one old rodders trick used to beat the bowties for many years!!

(428 crank into a 427 block)

sleddog

Amazing what you can build if you just mix up a coupla things. I can only
imagine if you took a C block and put a C crank in it. Is that possible?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 17:09:34 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Dana 44 update II and Frame Painting

fiberglass wheels. they work very well, as they are more abrasive than a
wire wheel. they also don't hurt so much when you accidently hit it with
your hand :)

sleddog

- ----------
From: marko[SMTP:marko helix.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 1998 12:08 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: Dana 44 update II and Frame Painting

At 08:46 AM 1/22/98 +0000, you wrote:
>> From: "Michael Redden"
>> Subject: Re: Dana 44 update II and Frame Painting
>> Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:18:33 -0500
>
>> Thanks for the update. I was wondering if you used a needle gun, or
>> the needle scaler attachment to an air hammer? I have to clean up
>> and paint my frame. When I get my replacement bed from Texas
>> (hopefully in a few weeks) I'd like to do this. I thought a good way
>> might be 1) use degreaser/scraper 2) needle gun 4) blaster.
>>
>> I also thought I might ask you guys for some input on paint (rather
>> than undercoat). Is Dupont Emron a good choice, or what might be
>> good.

Mike, you can also use these things called "rust wheels". They look a
little like wire wheels but are made of some weird fiber. Apparently they
do a great job of stripping, but watch your eyes!


marko







+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 15:17:21 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FE stew

There's lots of Ford engine info on this URL also:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/

- ----------
> From: marko maryniak
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: FE stew
> Date: Thursday, January 22, 1998 12:25 PM
>
> Okay, I was just thinking and I thought I'd set out some general
interchange
> notes for those of you who are interested in FE's. I'm doing this off
the
> top of my head so correct me if I am wrong but I think I'm right.



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 18:20:06 EST
From: Impala502
Subject: New Carpet

Hello everyone. I am in the final stages of resoreing my 1970 F-250. It is a
Ranger XLT Camper Special with a 360. I just ordered some carpet to replace
the old ratty stuff, and I was wondering if any of you had any suggestions for
me before i put it in. I have also been told that the 1970 Ford F-250 Ranger
XLT Camper Special was a rare truck, is there any truth to this?

Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 18:33:45 EST
From: ECampb5214
Subject: Re: New Carpet

Dont forget to cut out the hole for the high beams switch.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 15:21:57 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FE intake blues

- ----------
> From: marko maryniak
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: FE intake blues
> Date: Thursday, January 22, 1998 1:54 PM
> Apparently the stock 4bbl manifold is very good, and doesn't have any of
the
> problems of the E-broke with carb flange issues. I heard you can get
> aluminum intakes cast from the original 60's molds. Somebody on the list
> said this. And I suppose if nobody on the list replies, you could get
hold
> of Ford Power Parts and find out.
>
> By the way, there is a guy in central California (Venolia?) named Dave
> Nettles who runs a performance shop. He seems a little gung-ho but has
lots
> of used parts for sale. His email is dnettles2 juno.com and his shop's
name
> is Fenders'n'Heads. The URL for his shop's website is
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.1-888.com/DNpage/index1.html. You might be able to find
> something interesting there for a low cost. And he's in California, so
he'd
> know about your smog rules.

It's Visalia, about half an hour south of Fresno on I-5.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 19:21:00 EST
From: JRFiero
Subject: Re: vinegar, bat'ries, thermo housings

Steve, et al -
Amazing what discussion there's been on this, but that's why I asked.
The vinegar soak didn't work all that well, but I guess I was in too much of
a hurry. It did help some, then the power wire brush took off everthing else,
and painted up they work just fine.
I have, however, transferred the remaining extra housings (I guess Ford
calls them water outlets) to a plastic container, and I'll let them sit a
while, then report back.
There was clearly something going on with the coffee can.
Thanks for your always interesting comments.
Jonas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 17:08:34 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: New Carpet

>Hello everyone. I am in the final stages of resoreing my 1970 F-250. It is a
>Ranger XLT Camper Special with a 360. I just ordered some carpet to replace
>the old ratty stuff, and I was wondering if any of you had any suggestions for
>me before i put it in. I have also been told that the 1970 Ford F-250 Ranger
>XLT Camper Special was a rare truck, is there any truth to this?
>
>Thanks

I've seen a lot of 67, 68, 69 and 71 and 72 especially but not very many
70's at all. Also, there aren't that many of these trucks around period so
I suppose an XLT Camper Special would be rarer.

As for the carpet, you can use contact cement to glue it down.

marko

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 17:13:32 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: RE: 454 Ford

>yes, it make about 454 cubes and is one old rodders trick used to beat the
bowties for many years!!
>
Hey Sleddog,

How would one of these things run? How would it compare with, say, a 460?
Would it be reliable, and would the 428 crank bolt right in? What kind of
cam would you use? How much power would it make?

And could you keep tires on your car if you had one of them? ;-)

marko

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 19:39:53 -0500
From: Brian & Jacque
Subject: Re: Carbs ??

Sleddog wrote:
>
>
> if you have any concerns for gas mileage, a 600 will do well. if power is
> your only concern, a 750 will have more grunt. as far as throttle responce
> is concerned, it is hard to overcarburate a big block ford. many of the
>
> Well I went out and bought the edelbrock 750...I want the GRUNT !!



>Next question...Is it ok to run the new motor with no exhaust...
Not even manifolds...when I first start it up ??

Brian
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 18:07:30 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: 454 Ford

marko maryniak wrote:
>
> >yes, it make about 454 cubes and is one old rodders trick used to beat the
> bowties for many years!!
> >
> Hey Sleddog,
>
> How would one of these things run? How would it compare with, say, a 460?
> Would it be reliable, and would the 428 crank bolt right in? What kind of
> cam would you use? How much power would it make?
>
> And could you keep tires on your car if you had one of them? ;-)
>
> marko

Marko: Ford Power Parts has a write up on this very project with all
the info. If you would like for me to scan it and send it to you, let
me know.

Obviously the 460 can't match the sheer horsepower but it wasn't
designed to rev like the FE.

FE rules!!!

Regards:
John MacNamara

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 GT500
66 Corvette

64 427 L/R
68 427 M/R
68 427
71 Zl1




>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 21:13:01 EST
From: GMPACHECO
Subject: Re: Disc brake 9" rear end

are you suggesting this would fit on a 72 f-100????

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 20:40:15 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Carbs ??

>>Next question...Is it ok to run the new motor with no exhaust...
>Not even manifolds...when I first start it up ??
>
>Brian

It would be one loud SOB. I would at least put the manifolds on - no
telling how big a flame will come out it it decided to backfire.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 21:43:54 EST
From: A64F100
Subject: Re: Carbs ??

I think you'll be alright if u run it with the manifolds, but you're bound to
screw up some valves eventually without the manifolds on

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 19:55:47 -0700
From: "Michael Connor"
Subject: Re: Carbs ??

>


Brian,
I was told once that it was not a good idea. When you rev the engine up,
hot exhaust gases flow past the exhaust valves, heating them up. With no
exhaust
manifolds or pipes, cool air will be sucked in when the engine revs down.
This rush of cool air onto a hot exhaust valve could cause the valve to
warp.
Dunno how true it really is, but not worth the gamble to me to find out.

FWIW,

Mike
77 F250 4WD, 460, Edelbrock, Carter, MSD, C6, Integral power steering
conversion.




>> Next question...Is it ok to run the new motor with no exhaust...
>>Not even manifolds...when I first start it up ??
>>
>> Brian
>
>It would be one loud SOB. I would at least put the manifolds on - no
>telling how big a flame will come out it it decided to backfire.
>
>Mike
>
>_____________________________________________
>
>Email: mikes intx.net
>Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 23:21:11 -0500 (EST)
From: "Jason K. Schechner"
Subject: Re: 351M Pinging & Dieseling

On Thu, 22 Jan 1998, Dave Resch wrote:

> Yo Dudes:
>
> Help! I need some advice.
>
> My low compression 351M (8.0:1 factory spec CR) now consistently demands 92
> octane premium gas to keep it from pinging (pretty bad!) and dieseling
> run-on when I shut it off. (BTW: I live in Colorado at around 5400 ft MSL
> altitude, so 85 octane should work just fine when there's nothing else
> going on.)

I've got a '79 400 that does about the same thing except that it
consumes about a quart of oil per 100 miles. What I do is put a bottle of
"fuel system cleaner" in a tank of gas and that lasts me about three or
four tanks-worth before the dieseling comes back. Otherwise it demands
92oct. After running the cleaner through it I can use 87 without a
problem. At $1.50 a bottle it's definately cheaper than high-test.

- -Jason
79 Bronco (460 coming soon, C6, 33" BFG AT's) GRN GYNT - offroad monster
79 Bronco (400M, C6, 31" Wranglers) blue - BGHOSS
95 Mustang GT - LTLHOS - Eibachs, 3.55's, K&N, 13deg timing
84 Kawasaki GPz550 - TNYHOS - to make up for the Broncos' appetite

- -----
Jason K. Schechner - check out www.cauce.org and help ban spam-mail.
=The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has bounds=

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 20:29:37 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FE stew and the Deacon too

Back to the engine compartment again.

I have the stock 4v intake right now and with the problems that I hear
about the Edelbroke I'm not sure if a switch would be worth it.

What about the carbs?

I am looking at getting rid of the Holly that is on there now. It has
been trouble ever since I bought the truck. Me and carbs don't dance
well together so I want something that (after the first setup) doesn't
need to be touched. I was thinking about the Edelbrock 600. Is there a
real differance between the electric and manuel chokes other than price?

I finally got those darn brake lights working again.

Say what? I didn't tell you about my brake lights?

Oh, the pressure switch went out again. So I ran down to the local
parts place and picked up one of those brake light switches from a late
70's, $.99 piece of metal and a 10amp fuse for my new fuse pannel, no
more little glass jobs in the light switch, YEAAAA. I also used about 6
feet of wire but now I have nice bright brake lights that come on as
soon as I touch the pad. Would a 10 amp fuse be too much? there are
time when I tow a trailer so it would have to power up those light too.
I might back it down to a 7.5 amp job.

Also on the plate was to replace the shaft seal on the York. $18 bucks
for the little gaskets and inner seal. Also order a fan temp switch to
run the electric fans when I add those. Steve what size fans were those
12" and 14"?

On the tire side the 35's fit pretty good.

One last thing, Why am I getting all the FT posts at one time in the
evening? Whats up with that?

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 22:05:33 -0800
From: Randy Collins
Subject: Re: Dupont Imron & Dangerous Chemicals

> Snip

> I painted one of my cars that I owned back in the 80's with Imron. Two
> years after the car was painted you could take your finger nail and make
> an impression in the paint, I made sure I didn't break the surface.
> After a few minutes the impression was gone. If I remember right, from
> my body shop days, Imron is meant to say somewhat flexible. This helps
> the paint resist rock chips. I think they use Imron on single engine
> aircraft as well. In the 80's I think Dupont had a 10 year no fade
> guarantee also.

Imron is also what's used to paint jumbo-jets. Anyone know if you *have*
to use DuPont's primer to use Imron? The paint shop where I'm going to buy
my Imron (for my Broncos) also sells Spies paint (it's German and
pronounced "shpEEs") and primer and the Spies primer can sit exposed to the
atmosphere for up to six months before being painted, whereas DuPont's
won't last more than a day or two before soaking up water. I'd like to use
the Spies primer and Imron paint, but I don't want it flaking off in a year
or too. The paint shop says it'll probably work though neither
manufacturer would recommend it. Of course not - they want to sell their
own product. Any ideas?
Jason

I recommend that you don't mix systems. The main reason is that if
problems arise down the road you are on you own. I assure you that both
manufactures will turn and run.

Typically the best type paint systems are used on air planes. Most of the
time these utilize polyester urethanes where as the automotive industry
uses acrylic urethanes. Even so, depending on the formulation there are
many variables in each paint. Although these systems can be more durable
than systems used in the automotive industry often they have
characteristics that are not very desirable. The primary problem is longer
dry times and being very difficult touch up. Even though they are
outstanding products, it would take a dedicated auto body man to shoot a
car and leave it in a dust free environment for 8 to 72 hours. After this
is done then he finds out that panel repair is almost impossible.

Stick with the best products from any one of the big name manufactures and
you will do fine. Better yet if you aren't going to paint the vehicle
yourself you need to consult with the applicator and then decide which
product he is most comfortable spraying.

Any of you that are considering painting your own vehicle need to be aware
of the extremely hazardous chemical contained in the finish coat of these
products. IT IS VERY HARMFULL!! If you apply these finishes you need to
be completely covered (from head to toe) with suitable protective gear.
You also need a fresh air supplied respirator. Don't mess with these
things they are bad. If you have any doubts...ask any retired body
man...why he retired!

Sorry for the lecture!

BTW As long as the minimum and maximum re-coat windows are followed one
manufactures urethane will adhere to another manufactures epoxy just fine.

Later,

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

>> Industrial Coatings Guy
N.A.C.E. Coatings Inspector #3902
(National Association of Corrosion Engineers)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 23:12:35 -0800
From: marko
Subject: Re: 454 Ford

>Marko: Ford Power Parts has a write up on this very project with all
>the info. If you would like for me to scan it and send it to you, let
>me know.
>
>Obviously the 460 can't match the sheer horsepower but it wasn't
>designed to rev like the FE.
>
>FE rules!!!

John:

I'd be interested to read it just for fun. I'm putting a 410 in my truck,
so that's settled. But it would be pretty neat to read about.

If it isn't a bother, then sure. If it's a bother, then don't bother.

Thanks,


marko

PS: What do you know about 410's?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 22:03:28 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Door problems...

> Terry Sherman wrote:
>
> I have a 76 Ford Highboy


What is a "highboy"?

Easy Deacon!

I really have no idea what this is referring to.

Thanks
Dana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 22:22:33 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: rear springs 82 F100 - out of year, but I prefer this list

Was it the main leaf or one of the others. If it is the main I would replace the
whole pack, if it is one of the others then you don't need to remove the whole
pack just the axle and the through bolt that holds the pack together.

On a truck as new as yours I don't think you will have too much problem
removing the "U" bolts or spring mount bolts. My 70's came off with the use of a
box end wrench (didn't have a deep socket ) and a cheater bar ( WD-40 or similar
for a few days before will help alot.)

Any spring shop can rebuild the pack for you or get a pack from the wrecking
yard and swap the broken leaf.

I don't see a need to replace the other side but if you really feel the need to
then you might look for a set from the next higher capacity truck ( I.E. if
yours is an F150 then see if springs from an F250 would fit with out mods )
Check the width, height, thickness, perch center to perch center, front perch to
axle center etc. Also this will probably raise the rear of the truck a little so
you might need to have the front end aligned.

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 22:34:49 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 351M Pinging & Dieseling

Dave Resch wrote:
>

> The combination of pinging and dieseling leads me to guess that the heads
> and piston tops are carboned up pretty bad. Sound right to you? The
> baffling thing is, every time I pull the plugs they are really clean w/ no
> trace of fouling or excess carbon (that would indicate rich running).



Sounds like it might be running real lean!! Or the spark plugs might be too high
a heat range and they might be acting like a glow plug causing the ping and the
dieseling

In case you have never tried, this is supposed to stop a dieseling engine: after
you turn off the key and while it is dieseling push the gas pedal to the floor
and hold it there the engine should stop.

Don't know if it works but I read it somewhere!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 22:46:50 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: New Carpet

My 70 is a "Camper Special" also ( not XLT though ) but it might have been a
dealer installed item.

The aux gas tank hole through the bottom of the bed floor appears to have been
cut with a torch and the switch for the gas tanks has 6 or so wires coming from
it but only 3 are used. It has single overload springs and the gizmo on the rear
shackle that is supposed to make the spring stiffer as the spring flattens out
also seems to have been flame cut slightly ( don't know why? ) I have not seen
anything in my shop manuals that refers to "Camper Special". I have been curious
about this for a long time.

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 23:12:33 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Carbs ??

I think no manifolds is a problem waiting to happen. I have driven a 289 without
any tail pipes to a muffler shop, It was only real loud when the throttle was
open alot.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 00:05:25 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Door problems...

>What is a "highboy"?
>
>Easy Deacon!
>
>I really have no idea what this is referring to.
>
>Thanks
>Dana

What! Do you think I always have a wise crack for these wide open doors
of opportunity? OK, so maybe I do. I'll stay away from this one though. It
offers too much chance to get in trouble. :)
It would be my guess it refers to a lifted truck. It's also a Hot
Rodders term but would not apply to trucks.



Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 00:28:34 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Door problems...

I thought for sure you would come up with something like " It's a young guy who
painted his truck without a respirator" ( but better )or something like
that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I know about the Hot Rodders term ( don't really know what it means ether ) but
I felt it probably was not referring to the same condition.
You are probably correct about being raised ETC.

See ya!!!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 04:22:03 -0600
From: "Greg Charney"
Subject: Re: Door problems...

Actual it is a FORD truck term. They sold a "highboy" model with a factory
lift above the normal four wheel drive model. It was an option that was....


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