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Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 03:50:23 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #27
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Sunday, January 18 1998 Volume 02 : Number 027



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

FMX/C5 ?? [Serian ]
Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #26 [bradyiii shore.intercom.net]
Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #26 [bradyiii shore.intercom.net]
Found a 69 F100 For sale [shoman p3.net]
Re: C6? [Don Grossman ]
Re: 360/390 difference AND headers for 360/390 [BULL229 ]
Re: 360/390 difference AND headers for 360/390 [shoman p3.net]
Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar? [JRFiero ]
High End Audio [Randy Collins ]
Re: High End Audio [Chekerdpst ]
Re: Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar? ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: Parting out 1978 F250 ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: High End Audio ["Deacon" ]
Re: Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar? ["Jason K. Schechner" ]
Not so High End Audio [ECampb5214 ]
Re: Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar? [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: High End Audio ["Deacon" ]
Rear Brakes [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Not so High End Audio ["Deacon" ]
Re: Rear Brakes ["Deacon" ]
Re: Rear Brakes [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Not so High End Audio [CandyDMan ]
Re: Rear Brakes ["Deacon" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 11:50:55 -0500
From: Serian
Subject: FMX/C5 ??

>An FMX has a removable bell housing and is made of magnetizable material. (
>don't remember the pan shape )

The FMX pan is almost square.
Also, from what I can tell by looking at them, the transmission designated
as a "CW" is an FMX with a longer output shaft and housing.

On a similar subject:
What the heck is a C5 ? I have seen the reference, seen the transmission, but
Im not quite sure where to classify it in the lineup.

The C6 is the tough, heavy-duty trans. used on big V8's, some medium V8's,
and
even the 302 (I have a C6 for a 302/351W in my garage if anyone is
interested ...
this will bolt up to a I6-300, too ..)

The FMX/CW is medium duty, but was discontinued; used mostly on the
302/351W, and 351M/400 series

The C4 is light to medium duty ... Ive seen it used with the 302, 351W,
and some large V6's

The C3 is a light duty unit ... mostly on I4's and smaller V6's

Where does the C5 fit in ? Is it the replacement for the discontinued FMX ?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 09:06:10 +0000
From: bradyiii shore.intercom.net
Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #26

> Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 03:50:37 -0700 (MST)
> From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
> To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
> Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #26
> Reply-to: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net

> Subject: Distinguishing 360/390
>
> Dave: If theres a way to distinguish externally, I don't know it.
> I've always had to break them down and measure the stroke. You can
> take a piston out and look at the side by the wristpin hole and it will
> be stamped 360 or 390 right on it.
>
> >>I was just curios, with all this talk about the differences between
> the
> 360 and the 390. How can you tell the difference between the two
> externally?
>
> Azie
>
> At my local bone yard I noticed another way to tell. If the motor is
in a truck it is generally a 360 and if it is in a car, usually a
Thunderbird, it is a 390. If the motor is out of the car it will
usually have thunderbird valve covers. Good Luck.

Jim Brady '71 F100

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 09:18:20 +0000
From: bradyiii shore.intercom.net
Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #26

> Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 03:50:37 -0700 (MST)
> From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
> To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
> Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #26
> Reply-to: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net

> Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:55:46 EST
> From: BDIJXS
> Subject: Re:Headers and starters
>
> Hey guys,
>
> I've had a 69' F-100 for almost 20 years now, and I have been running Cyclone
> headers for about 17 years (on my second set now). One thing about the
> Cyclones is that they come apart at the collecter, meaning you don't have to
> lift the engine at all to put them in. The two front tubes (cylinders 1 and 2)
> slip out of the collectors. I admit they leak a little bit there, but they
> seem to work. I really never have had ANY starter problems all these
> years....
>
> Let me know if you want more info..
>
> Jeff
>
With Fords remote solenoid I thought this was a Ch*vy problem? I
have never had this problem with my truck and I am running headers.

Jim Brady F100

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 11:26:35 -0800
From: shoman p3.net
Subject: Found a 69 F100 For sale

Anybody in the NJ,PA,NY area theres a 1969 F-100 At
Meadowland Ford Trucks (201) 617-0700...The truck has 102,987 original
miles...6 cyl with a 3speed 2wd..There asking $350
for it...
- --
Joe 1968 F-100 4x4 302 NP435 "Its not pretty but its gets me there"
1969 F-250 4x4 390 NP435 "Undecided Future"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 09:30:01 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: C6?

Deacon wrote:

> Thanks for correcting me John. This list isn't like fordnatics when a
> person makes a mistake is it Don Grossman. :) Lucky I made mine here! The
> FMX is a separate bellhousing correct?
> Later and thanks again John. This is how a person should be corrected when
> they make a mistake. You've got class Bro!
>
> Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net

HEY! Someone else just beat me to it. And for your information the
origional post said nothing about the rear end being for a car..... I
still think that a Dana 60 or 70 will stand up to 325hp.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 14:03:50 EST
From: BULL229
Subject: Re: 360/390 difference AND headers for 360/390

For the guy trying to differentiate a 360/390, the only sure fire way, other
than hoping it has stock pistons, or pulling a head and measuring stroke with
a dial indicator, is the crank casting. I don't remember off hand what each
casting is, but a 428 id 1UB or 1UA, look for a 3 digit number like this on
the crank. If you go to any NAPA store, their bearing book will tell you
which one each casting fits. The guy may have to look a little, and you may
have to direct him if he isn't too sharp, but its in there, I promise.

As for the headers, I used Blackjacks and Cyclones (same brand) and the two
piece isn't much easier (IMHO) and are prone to leak at this joint. The best
BY FAR, were Hedman one piece, you have to jack up each side of the motor to
put them in, but they fit well and look nicer. NAPA sells Hedman under their
own name and are a good price. By the way, I don't work for NAPA (smile),
just used their parts for years and have grown to trust them and know what
they have in the books. Good luck

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:11:23 -0800
From: shoman p3.net
Subject: Re: 360/390 difference AND headers for 360/390

Not sure if this was said..Can't you tell the differnce by
pulling a valve cover and looking for 360 or 390 in the head???
Or arent they marked like the small blocks???

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 19:08:46 EST
From: JRFiero
Subject: Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar?

If I recall, there are a few of you out there who know a little chemistry.
What is it that distilled white vinegar does to metal pieces? And what is
distilled white vinegar, anyway? Label says 'diluted with water to 5%
acidity.'
I have several thermostat housings in a can of vinegar right now, and it's
bubbling away having a fine time. But what's happening? Will they just melt?
Will it take the paint off, too (only flecks are left)? My intent was to get
the rust off, and I accomplished that using vinegar once before on an old pair
of pliers I found buried in the backyard, but they came out all pockmarked.
Probably the rust, but could it have been the vinegar?
I've accelerated the process a little by having the coffee can (with vinegar
and housings) sitting in a plastic tub which I keep refilling with hot water.
Wonder what's happening to the coffee can?
It's thermostat time for the ol' flathead. When I bought it, they were
sitting in the glovebox, 'til this morning. I could use a little heat, even
in this mild Virginia winter. Tested 'em with the wife's candy thermometer,
they're fine (180). I have new hoses and pipes, so I just have to clean up
the thermostat housings. Fortunately I have extras to experiment with. Two
more in the garage overnight with foamy Dow oven cleaner on them. Hope to
paint a couple of them tomorrow, bake them if my wife goes out somewhere, and
button it all up.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:51:36 -0800
From: Randy Collins
Subject: High End Audio

Ford Folks:

Does anyone have any experience installing a HIGH END (well medium high
end) audio system in one of the "73 to '79 cabs. I am primarily interested
in speaker selection in the front end of the cab. The truck the system is
going in is a Super Cab.

Since I am not sure the rest of the list has interest in this area could
you send me private e-mail on this and I will reply with what I have so
far.

Later,

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford F250 4WD Supercab "Muscle Truck"
460 SUPER COBRA JET
Short Block Completed...Stage II head work

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 20:13:37 EST
From: Chekerdpst
Subject: Re: High End Audio

I have 6inch bi-ax speakers installed in the doors of my 77. Factory
grills/slots in the panel work well to hide them. With 50 watts (RMS) powering
them, they sound pretty good, although I wasn't able to build a satisfactory
enclosure because of interference with the window when it is lowered. If you
don't plan to roll your windows down more than half way, better sound can be
had.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 18:19:16 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar?

Acids (vinegar) react to bases to form water and salt. Whatever base is on
the thermostat housing is reacting to the acid and probably etching the
metal. I highly doubt that the housings will melt away however. The oven
cleaner will probably do more damage than the vinegar, but neither is
likely to make them unusable. I usually just use a wire wheel on t-stat
housings tho'.

- ----------
> From: JRFiero
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net; fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar?
> Date: Saturday, January 17, 1998 4:08 PM
>
> If I recall, there are a few of you out there who know a little
chemistry.
> What is it that distilled white vinegar does to metal pieces? And
what is
> distilled white vinegar, anyway? Label says 'diluted with water to 5%
> acidity.'
> I have several thermostat housings in a can of vinegar right now, and
it's
> bubbling away having a fine time. But what's happening? Will they just
melt?
> Will it take the paint off, too (only flecks are left)? My intent was to
get
> the rust off, and I accomplished that using vinegar once before on an old
pair
> of pliers I found buried in the backyard, but they came out all
pockmarked.
> Probably the rust, but could it have been the vinegar?
> I've accelerated the process a little by having the coffee can (with
vinegar
> and housings) sitting in a plastic tub which I keep refilling with hot
water.
> Wonder what's happening to the coffee can?
> It's thermostat time for the ol' flathead. When I bought it, they
were
> sitting in the glovebox, 'til this morning. I could use a little heat,
even
> in this mild Virginia winter. Tested 'em with the wife's candy
thermometer,
> they're fine (180). I have new hoses and pipes, so I just have to clean
up
> the thermostat housings. Fortunately I have extras to experiment with.
Two
> more in the garage overnight with foamy Dow oven cleaner on them. Hope
to
> paint a couple of them tomorrow, bake them if my wife goes out somewhere,
and
> button it all up.
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 18:19:38 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Parting out 1978 F250

What's he want for the motor?

- ----------
> From: Chekerdpst
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Parting out 1978 F250
> Date: Friday, January 16, 1998 8:47 PM
>
> My sister's boyfriend is parting his truck after a front end collision.
Frame
> is twisted, nose is toast. Driveline is 400M? (he says 400 big block??),
T-18
> 4-speed (assuming-it has granny low) , Dana 60 (I think-8 bolts, big
drums,
> non-LSD).
> The bed is pretty good, glass is good, doors, rear bumper, and interior
are
> good. Dual tanks. Cheap stuff-he needs some cash. He is located in
Lyman,
> Washington, about 15 miles east of Mt.Vernon, 90 miles north of Seattle.
Let
> me know
>
> Darren
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 20:07:44 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: High End Audio

From: Randy Collins
>Does anyone have any experience installing a HIGH END (well medium high
>end) audio system in one of the "73 to '79 cabs. I am primarily interested
>in speaker selection in the front end of the cab. The truck the system is
>going in is a Super Cab.
>
>Since I am not sure the rest of the list has interest in this area could
>you send me private e-mail on this and I will reply with what I have so
>far.

Audio systems are Ford truck content! I'm going to be installing a
system in my '76 F350 and would like to discuss it with the list. I'm sure
Ken will let us know if there are complaints but I don't see why! It's not
like Ford trucks only have Ford AM radios in them. :)
I'm siting here with my Crutchfield catalog that I got at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.crutchfield.com/ free. If anyone isn't familiar with Crutchfield
go to their Web site and get happy. :) They carry it all. They sell systems
that are customized for most vehicles. I doubt as old as our trucks but they
still have tech support for anything they sell. They carry everything.
In each section of the catalog it has What to look for. In cassette
receivers they have Anti theft, Auto Music Search, FM Mono Sensitivity and
so on. On the next page they list all their receivers with all the
information. They list everything from a $99 Blaupunkt to a $469 Kenwood.
They do that for each component.
So, lets do it! Even without buying anything from Crutchfield, the
information in the catalog is worth having.
By the way, I don't work for anyone so there's no need to ask. :) And
Steve Delanty is the expert not me. I'm sure as soon as his up to it he'll
join in the conversation.
I'm looking for a good full sound. I've been looking at stuff for like
six months now and still don't have a plan. With out setting things up
correctly you can spend thousands for noise. I think this would be a great
thread as long as we cover a wide range of possibilities. A less expensive
unit, setup correctly can sound great and that may be all a person wants but
quality components setup correctly can sound like a live concert. Speaker
placement and attachment is very important. Mostly because in trucks there's
no good place to put them, but there are bad places. We need all the
different sounds to hit our ears at the same time. Each speaker has it's own
ranges. Crossovers, EQ's, AMPs... all need to be matched and mounted
correctly. I have a utility bed on my F350 so I'm mounting my (3 so far)
AMPs in one of the compartments. In my '73 F100 I mounted an AMP under the
seat. It's a bad place because they get hot. Air doesn't get to them and if
I moved my seat the cable would catch one of the fins and the latch wouldn't
catch on one side until I needed to make a hard stop. Then the seat would
fly forward... Bad news! But where else can it go in a truck?
I've gone on to long so I'll stop now. I would like to hear a lot of
opinions on this. Not to many of us can afford to buy a component and then
decide it's not what we want. Even speakers cost a bunch.
OOPS, later!



Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 23:30:17 -0500 (EST)
From: "Jason K. Schechner"
Subject: Re: Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar?

Vinegar is just dilue acetic acid. Concentrated acetic acid is
not a particularly strong acid (thought it does have a *very* strong
smell!) so dilute is even weaker. Heck, you can drink the stuff, so it's
not going to damage metal. You can find much more caustic chemicals in a
hardware store, like muriatic acid (dilute hydrochloric acid) and the
phosphoric acid found in rust removers like Naval Jelly. You can even
find some very caustic chemicals in your supermarket. Drop a penny into a
glass of coke and see what's left of it after a week or two. Neat (and
scary) stuff.

- -Jason
79 Bronco (460 coming soon, C6, 33" BFG AT's) GRN GYNT - offroad monster
79 Bronco (400M, C6, 31" Wranglers) blue - BGHOSS
95 Mustang GT - LTLHOS - Eibachs, 3.55's, K&N, 13deg timing
84 Kawasaki GPz550 - TNYHOS - to make up for the Broncos' appetite

- -----
Jason K. Schechner - check out www.cauce.org and help ban spam-mail.
=The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has bounds=

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 23:28:37 EST
From: ECampb5214
Subject: Not so High End Audio

Hello Everyone

I recently recieved a radio out of a friend brand new Probe, and i would like
to install it in my 75 F- 250. But there is a major wiring proble it was a 7
wire plug that goes in the radio ( along but excluding the 8 wire s for the
speakers ) and the truck has a 2 wire setup. Please if you have any idea how
to wire this radio please send me the stats
Thanks
Ethan

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 20:50:56 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar?

Ever hear of Pool acid!

Very strong acid, but it will take the rust off and your skin too!

BE CAREFUL!!!!!!!!!!!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 21:04:52 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: High End Audio

From: Chekerdpst
>I have 6inch bi-ax speakers installed in the doors of my 77. Factory
>grills/slots in the panel work well to hide them. With 50 watts (RMS)
powering
>them, they sound pretty good, although I wasn't able to build a
satisfactory
>enclosure because of interference with the window when it is lowered. If
you
>don't plan to roll your windows down more than half way, better sound can
be
>had.

Door speakers take a beating. They have waterproof foam baffles that fit
behind the speaker. Their soft so you can pull them up tight against the
speaker so it doesn't interfere with the window and it will protect the
speaker from the water that gets in through the window seal. 6" would be
about $8 a pair. Also there's a product called Noisekiller Blue. It's a
paint on material you can put on the inside of the door panel to stop any
noise and make the door a speaker box. The best is Dynamat. You put the mat
up then use a heat gun to stick it on. They have it in different thickness'
for different applications. With this the whole cab can be sound proof.
I'm making door panels out of 1/2" plywood. Stock door panels cost to
much and the plywood will give me a better speaker mount. I'll put nut
inserts in the plywood for the speakers and cover it with fiberglass. Top
mounting the speaker will give me a little more window clearance. Running
wires is another thing. What's the best way to run the wires? I would like
to use contacts like I've seen on some newer cars. Having wires getting bent
back and forth every time the door is opened and closed has caused me a lot
of problems.
Later!


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 21:45:28 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Rear Brakes

Someone slap me!!!!!!!

A year ago I rebuilt the rear end of my truck. New carrier, new gears new wheel
cylinders, new shoes, turned the drums, new bearings, new lock washers, new
grease seals, even new axle flange gaskets!!! A few months ago I noticed oil on
the backing plate. My hope was that it was the new wheel cylinder leaking. (
under warrantee ) I pulled the drum/hub ( whose idea was it to put the drum
inboard of the hub flange What a pain in the #$$ ) and boy was I in for a
surprise! Oil, Oil, everywhere. the inner seal looked fine but there was
definitely a problem. so I did what every intelligent Ford truck person does, I
buttoned every thing up and took it to a brake shop. ( now I knew I was going to
pay more then doing it myself but I just didn't want the hassle factor today and
if someone else repaired it it would be under warrantee if it leaked again! )
Well I got it to the shop and they said $98.00 plus seals, wow! that seemed
quite reasonable. $387.00 later I was back on the road. ( I knew better!!!!! )
First they informed me that the drum on the leaking side was already turned too
far out, then the springs and hardware should be replaced because they were
"stretched" by the over sized drum ( I couldn't remember if I replaced them a
year ago so I said ok since I don't want to do another rear brake job for as
long as I own this truck ) There was a broken ( that way when I bought it ) axle
bolt so I said, last time, that when the drum needed to be replaced I would
replace the hub at the same time. So off to the wrecking yards to get a hub.
Found one and dropped it off at the shop, at about 5:30 pm they informed me that
the wrecker had given me the wrong hub. Who knew that there are two bearing
sizes used on 1970ish, F250, Dana 60 rear ends! ( of course the wrecker gave me
the wrong one!!!! ) Then they said the axle gaskets weren't available, so out to
a parts store I went and returned with the gaskets. ( gee that was hard )
Luckily I happened to be dropping off some parts when I noticed that the words
"THIS SIDE OUT" weren't! At least the primary was in the correct place. the tech
had the gaul to argue with me about the correctness of his installation. After
15 minutes of explanation he finally agreed that I was correct. ( "he don't know
me do he" O.K. who am I quoting? ) then just to prove things for sure I went
home and went back with my Ford Shop manuals. A picture is worth a thousand
words!!!! Now I have to go the the wrecker, exchange the hub, bring it to the
shop, have them press off the old hub, press on the new hub, install new
bearings and install the new hub/drum.

Did I say "hassle factor"

Hope your weekend was better!!!

Dana

P.S. Just looking for sympathy!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 22:01:39 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Not so High End Audio

From: Ethan

>Hello Everyone
>
>I recently recieved a radio out of a friend brand new Probe, and i would
like
>to install it in my 75 F- 250. But there is a major wiring proble it was a
7
>wire plug that goes in the radio ( along but excluding the 8 wire s for the
>speakers ) and the truck has a 2 wire setup. Please if you have any idea
how
>to wire this radio please send me the stats
>Thanks

This is just guessing and looking at my Aerostar manual but a
yellow/black wire will be keyed 12v, I don't see a color for ground, light
green/yellow constant 12v for memory, orange/light blue + out to like a
power antenna, orange/black could go the light switch to dim the LED and
stuff. . If it's premium sound there may be wires to turn on an EQ and or
AMP or remote controls like volume button on the steering wheel. You can go
into a parts store and look in a Probe manual. Haynes will more than likely
have a wiring diagram in it. I do it all the time when working other peoples
stuff and no one has ever said anything to me. Write down the color of the
wires in a pad then when you look in the manual all you need to do is write
down what wire goes where. If these colors are on your receiver you can tell
me what colors you have and I'll tell you where they go in an Aerostar.
!5 wires for one receiver. Maybe some of it is smog! :) Later!

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

- -----Original Message-----

To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Date: Saturday, January 17, 1998 8:31 PM
Subject: Not so High End Audio


>>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 23:50:28 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Rear Brakes

Hey, aren't you the guy that told me how easy these rearends are to work on?

>Someone slap me!!!!!!!

OK, I'm here for ya Dana!

>buttoned every thing up and took it to a brake shop. ( now I knew I was
going to
>pay more then doing it myself but I just didn't want the hassle factor
today and
>if someone else repaired it it would be under warrantee if it leaked
again! )

Pep Boys? :) When you don't want the hassle factor it comes no matter what.

>Well I got it to the shop and they said $98.00 plus seals, wow! that seemed
>quite reasonable. $387.00 later I was back on the road. ( I knew
better!!!!! )

In what? :)

>First they informed me that the drum on the leaking side was already turned
too
>far out, then the springs and hardware should be replaced because they were
>"stretched" by the over sized drum

I never have mine checked so their never oversized. :) Springs are cheap so
I get them when I get my brake shoes. I hate doing a rear brake job then
hear the noise of a spring that just broke. Take it apart and there's
nothing wrong. Then I'm really mad at those voices in my head that have
nothing better to do than make squeaking noises.

>( I couldn't remember if I replaced them a
>year ago so I said ok since I don't want to do another rear brake job for
as
>long as I own this truck )

Bet you said that last year too! :)

>Found one and dropped it off at the shop, at about 5:30 pm they informed me
that
>the wrecker had given me the wrong hub. Who knew that there are two bearing
>sizes used on 1970ish, F250, Dana 60 rear ends! ( of course the wrecker
gave me
>the wrong one!!!! ) Then they said the axle gaskets weren't available, so
out to
>a parts store I went and returned with the gaskets. ( gee that was hard )

Well I don't think they paid you for your time but I do hope they didn't add
their 10% for the parts.

>Luckily I happened to be dropping off some parts when I noticed that the
words
>"THIS SIDE OUT" weren't! At least the primary was in the correct place. the
tech
>had the gaul to argue with me about the correctness of his installation.
After
>15 minutes of explanation he finally agreed that I was correct.

That's thinking ahead. I mean the warrantee you were talking about when it
leaks again. :)

>( "he don't know me do he" O.K. who am I quoting? )

Every Loony Toon character there is, was and ever will be?

>words!!!! Now I have to go the the wrecker, exchange the hub, bring it to
the
>shop, have them press off the old hub, press on the new hub, install new
>bearings and install the new hub/drum.

OK, I know you've already done this cuz your back on the road again. Right?

>Did I say "hassle factor"

Yes I believe you did.

>Hope your weekend was better!!!

I don't see how it couldn't have been. Hope the future is better for ya. I
mean with your warrantee and all. :)

>P.S. Just looking for sympathy!!!

Where? Just kidding. So why did it start leaking? God I'm heartless!
If you ever want to be slapped again just let me know, Later!



Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 00:31:35 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Rear Brakes

Deacon wrote:
>
> Hey, aren't you the guy that told me how easy these rearends are to > work on?
>

No, I like Ford 9"


> > Now I have to go the the wrecker, exchange the hub, bring it to
> > the
> >shop, have them press off the old hub, press on the new hub, install > >new
> >bearings and install the new hub/drum.
>
> OK, I know you've already done this cuz your back on the road again. > Right?


No they put the old hub back on to get me on the road for now!!!

Dana

P.S. Did I say I loved the heater wrap line.

My response would have been: You have to wrap the inside of the heater core to
protect it from heat!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 03:49:44 EST
From: CandyDMan
Subject: Re: Not so High End Audio

In regards to the Ford Probe stereo, if it is anything like the stereo that my
friend got out of an '89 Mustang, most of those wires have to do with the
stock amp that you probably don't have. I'm not sure how to hook it up, but
he used a wiring diagram and several hours of his time to figure his system
out. Good news is it works fine even without the amp. Good luck

Dennis Candy
1970 F250 Crew Cab 4x4 460--work in progress!/daily driver!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 01:31:52 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Rear Brakes

>Dana
>
>P.S. Did I say I loved the heater wrap line.
>
>My response would have been: You have to wrap the inside of the heater
core to
>protect it from heat!!!!!!

Gee, you asked for someone to slap you. If you didn't want me to, why
did you ask? I'll make up for it with a URL
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.permatex.com/mrktchnls/auto_main/index.html They have information
on all their products. I think everyone will like this link. speaking of
heaters GAS TANK & RADIATOR REPAIR. My wives heater core just went out. I....

---

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