Re: FE teardown

fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, April 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 236

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In this issue:

Re: FE teardown [George Herpich ]
Re: Paint&Body [George Herpich ]
Another question on FE [Joe DeLaurentis ]
Re: Oil ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Hot starts (sans Deacon) ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Another question on FE ["Rick Williams" ]
Hidey Ho from a new participant ["Rick Williams" ]
Re: Oil ["Rick Williams" ]
Re: Paint&Body [Stu Varner ]
351 W heads ["John Kosche" ]
Oil ["Jay Branscome" ]
Edelbrock Heads Updated ["PAUL MONTY" ]
RE: "New" 460 crank in old 460 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Edelbrock Heads Updated [John MacNamara ]
NewBie [JJ Ford ]
Front D44 to 3/4 ton conversion ["Michael R. Masse"
Re: NewBie [Stu Varner ]
Re: NewBie [John MacNamara ]
Re: Front D44 to 3/4 ton conversion ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Hot starts [sdelanty

sonic.net]
Re: Another question on FE [sdelanty

sonic.net]
Re: Front D44 to 3/4 ton conversion [james oxley ]
site with good info [pickup65

juno.com (Jon E Purut)]
Re: Hot starts ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]

=======================================================================

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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 06:10:45 -0400
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: FE teardown

Oversize and undersize pushrods have paint on one end. It would have to be
removed intentionally or covered with a lot of sludge and not noticed
before hot tanking. It's a good idea to keep them in order and clean them
yourself. If the motor hasn't been rebuilt they will all be standard and
part of an FE valve job is to grind the stems to the proper height. For
some reason all the remanufactured long blocks from Ford have the
over-under sized pushrods. At least the ones done by Fred Jones.
George

J.Scott Harkema wrote:

> When replaing your pushrods make sure they
> are the EXACT same as your old ones. I got a
> set once & fired my 390 up & instantly bent
> 2 of them.Puled all 16 out & compared them
> to each other and noticed 2 more were about
> .030 longer than the rest.
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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 06:48:31 -0400
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: Paint&Body

I like Devilbiss for lacer and Binks for enamels. If you have not painted before
and you can still get it in your area, I would suggest lacer. It is much easier
to do and mistakes can be easily fixed. It is also still the best looking finish
(I'm gonna get some arguments here). It requires a lot more prep work than
enamels and urethanes and color sanding and rubbing out is very time consuming
but you can achieve a mirror finnish your first try if your willing to put in
the time.
If you have a compressor the size of it will dictate the type of spray gun you
can use. A JGA or MBC DeVilbiss will need 8 to 9 cfm and Binks #7 around 11. If
you have a small compressor your going to have a hard time because you'll have
to use a small gun and will never get all the way around the truck keeping the
paint wet. You'll have lots of overspray and orange peel to sand out. If you
are happy with your compressor for air tools etc. but it's to small for a spray
gun consider one of the HVLP ( high volume low pressure) setups. This is
something I want to get eventually. It cuts overspray to almost nothing and
there is no oil or moisture to worry about as it has it's own turbine
compressor. I think you can get a decent one for around $500. Then you can get a
cheapy cup gun for primer.

I have painted close to 200 cars and still prefer lacer in my garage. Overspray
is just dust and doesn't stick to everything. You only need a good organic
respirator. Urethane and hardened acrylic enamels give off deadly fumes and
shouldn't be sprayed without a fresh air supplied mask.

Get a couple of books on the subject to learn about preparation and spraying
technique and it would be a good idea to do a light solid color first.

George

Jim Craig wrote:

> Well, it's time to give 'ol faithful a makeover. The duct tape has a hard
> time holding the body parts on when there is nothing to stick to! For those
> of you out there who have experience with this, what are your
> recommendations on an air spray gun?
>
> Jimbo
> '77 Supercab
> Rustic Red
>
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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 07:07:57 -0400
From: Joe DeLaurentis
Subject: Another question on FE

Did all fe Motors have oil slingers on the crank snout???All I have
is the timing gear and a counter balance(i'm asuming that's what this
heavy piece is)and then the front cover the shop manual keeps mentioning
an oil slinger....
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
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ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
> Subject: Oil
> Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 01:57:21 -0500

> I have read a few posts on oil, and would like a little more info if
> anyone is so inclined.

> The engine in my truck as I've said before is set up very loose. It
> makes good oil pressure at idle. (60 cold 35 hot) It rattles like a
> sprint car when it's cold for about 5 minutes , but quiets down

> engine like this? I'm thinking of SAE 40 Penzoil as a possibility
> for warm weather, and back to 10-40 in the winter. Or maybe 20w50
> Penz year round. I know that the blow-by won't go away, but do you

Since you're keeping the seals in good shape I think you may be able
to use synthetic oil. The advantages will help you in the following
areas as I understand it at this point:

Blow by will have less effect on the oil life span
Temp changes will be less problematic since the VI is much better
If any of the noise is due to sticky rings etc. it will help clean
them up
Oil consumption should go down unless you have a leak.

I bought Amsoil 0W30 for my applications but they have 10W40 and
20W50 as well. I would recommend the 20W50 if you had any idea how
the bearings were toleranced, otherwise maybe the 10W40 would be a
good choice. They have both a diesel and a gas version with
different properties.

Call 715-392-7101 for tech assistance on this. I was impressed by
the numbers in their spec sheets and the tech guy seemed to know the
product very well. At least you can get more info this way to help
make a decision. Their oil is expensive but if the numbers are real
it should be worth it in a new tight engine or a new loose engine as
well but the key here IMHO is "new" or "fresh". I don't think I
would waste my money on an older engine with this oil personally. I
put it in a TBird with 50k and will put it in the 97 F-150 with about
12k on it for a test. Neither of these engines have any leaks as yet
and that to me is the tie breaker. If it leaks even a little bit I'd
hesitate to put this expensive oil in it because it tends to leak a
little easier than petroleum oil, due to the parafin build up with
petroleum oils as I understand it.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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sonic.net
> Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 00:14:20 -0700
> Subject: Hot starts (sans Deacon)

> Don't forget to put a fuel pressure gauge on it. The
> edelbrock/carter AFB
> doesn't like more than about 6-7 psi at idle. My stock FE pump was
> nearly
> 11 psi!

I use aftermarket low pressure electric pumps and they are supposed
to be 6-7 psi but on my 460 with new float needles I had to use a
regulator too. This may be what's wrong with the bronco as well but
haven't had time to check it out. It has a mechanical pump right
now. The only thing I wonder about with the regulators is how much
they reduce the flow on an engine as big as the 460. I suspect it
has an influence on my top end performance but not sure at this
point.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 04:46:42 -0700
From: "Rick Williams"
Subject: Re: Another question on FE

Every one I've ever torn down did.
I'd say it's a fairly necessary little piece of bent sheet metal...

Rick

For the Pacific Northwest's premier Johnny Lightning website,
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- -----Original Message-----
From: Joe DeLaurentis
To: fordtrucks61-79

ListService.net
Date: Wednesday, April 29, 1998 4:16 AM
Subject: Another question on FE

>Did all fe Motors have oil slingers on the crank snout???All I have
>is the timing gear and a counter balance(i'm asuming that's what this
>heavy piece is)and then the front cover the shop manual keeps mentioning
>an oil slinger....
>--
>Joe
>Aka. Fordguy
>1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
>1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
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>

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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 05:19:52 -0700
From: "Rick Williams"
Subject: Hidey Ho from a new participant

Having had 29 vehicles since I learned to drive, I have a certain "thing"
for mechanical objects. I don't play favorites much, having had vehicles
from all manufacturers, but I have had quite a few Fords over the years (I'm
42.)

Notables include:

64 Mercury Comet Caliente - Maroon, black interior, 260 automatic
61 Ford State Patrol car - This one was hot! Black/white 390 interceptor
automatic, posi
66 Mercury Comet - plain jane maroon 2 dr post, 289 3 speed
69 Ford station wagon - built for cross country - lots of suspension
goodies, mildy built 390 automatic
65 Mustang - white, black interior, 289 3 speed
65 Mercury Comet Cyclone - white, black interior, factory 225hp 289,
automatic
62 Ford Galaxy - turquoise in and out, 352 automatic
64 Mercury Comet Cyclone - black in and out, 289 automatic
68 Mercury Monterey fastback - gold, white interior, 390 automatic
72 Ford Bronco - turquiose, black interior (mostly) 302 3 speed
63 Falcon Futura - red in and out, one owner 4 door, 170 automatic
66 Ford 3/4 ton 4x4 - my current one. red in and out, 410 merc 4 speed

I was reading some of the cached messages from days gone by, and there
was one I thought I'd respond to.
Someone mentioned the Edsels having 332's and 410's. I would like to
clarify the 410 issue a bit. They were only offered in big Mercurys
during 1966 and 67 only. I have one in my 66 F250 4x4, and I chose it
over the 390 specifically due to the specs: 330 HP and 444 ft. lbs. of
torque. It shares the 4.05" bore of the 390 and the 3.98" stroke of the
428. I'll tell you one thing: This thing's got some grunt to it, and I've
had some 390 experience in the past. It's unusual for an engine to be
offered only two years, but hopefully, this one will last me. I love it.

Rick

For the Pacific Northwest's premier Johnny Lightning website,
visit The Hoarder's House new location at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jps.net/rick1956

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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 05:32:17 -0700
From: "Rick Williams"
Subject: Re: Oil

I 've had some experience with oils, having been a lube man at our local
Pontiac dealership for 5 years a while back.
I would dump the 10/40 quick. Muli weights have come a long way since then,
and if you're going to stick with a multi, go with a good 20/50. I would
also recommend trying something other than Pennzoil. I've seen and heard
quite a bit on the subject, and while it's an "okay" oil, most other brands
I've seen are better. Also, by all means, don't ever use Chevron oil
(unless of course you're in some sort of emergency.) Every time I've ever
used (or heard of others using) theirs in any "less than perfect" engine, it
knocked twice as bad.
My favorite is the Castrol family. I use their 20/50 in my stuff, and their
10/30 (warrany requirement) in my wife's new car. They have a good product.
Of course, this is just my .02...

Rick

For the Pacific Northwest's premier Johnny Lightning website,
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- -----Original Message-----
From: WILLIAM L BALLINGER
To: fordtrucks61-79

ListService.net
Date: Wednesday, April 29, 1998 12:04 AM
Subject: Oil

>I have read a few posts on oil, and would like a little more info if anyone
>is so inclined.
>
>Every engine that I've had in the past has done well on Penzoil 10w40. I've
>always changed it religuosly, and got long life and good service for my
trouble.
>I've always taken my oil choice for granted until now.
>
>The engine in my truck as I've said before is set up very loose. It makes
>good oil pressure at idle. (60 cold 35 hot) It rattles like a sprint car
>when it's cold for about 5 minutes , but quiets down fairly acceptably when
>warm. It's the piston and pin clearance. It has a lot of blow-by, and I
>suspect a weak cylinder, though the cranking compression is exactly the
same
>for all 8. Number 8 will show a black spot on one side of the porcelin, the
>other 7 are perfect, and the tailpipes are chalky white, even running short
>trips. I've never had an engine set up like this one or that pulled so
well.
>
>I think that I need to do something different on the oil. All of this cold
>rattling can't be good for it. I don't believe in the additives I've seen
>and I hesitate to switch to a synthetic because I've heard that it willl
>cause leaks. I spent a lot of time sealing leaks while it was down, the
pan,
>valve covers , rear main and front cover are OK now. (front cover still
>leaks a little bit)The end seals on the intake are the worst. What do you
>guys reccomend for an engine like this? I'm thinking of SAE 40 Penzoil as a
>possibility for warm weather, and back to 10-40 in the winter. Or maybe
>20w50 Penz year round. I know that the blow-by won't go away, but do you
>think it will quiet down and most important be protected effectively by
this
>combination. Or is there something better? I have an open mind on
synthetics
>if they don't make a mess of the parking lot. So what works the best in
this
>kind of motor? When I switch I'd prefer to do it once, so's not to run into
>additive package compatability troubles.
>
>
>Ballinger
>ballingr

ldd.net
>
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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:45:01 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Paint&Body

>Hey, that's our tax money your buying all these toys with! Four
>classics, and teachers say their not paid well. If you'd sell A's like
>Stu, you could fill that empty space in the '62 (uncouth Chevy
>terminology) stepside.
>

Deacon,
You really are gonna be pissed when you hear about the 98 Cobra
Mustang I just ordered for my self........white and tan leather, cd player.
I just thought the
drop top might be a little too flashy so I opted not to buy that model.
Decent grades have been harder to come buy since I charge 200 per A.......I
never said weren't paid well. I sell the best grades money can buy!!
Almost enough to pay cash for my
new car!!

STU
Nuke the unborn baby whales!! AND GM TOO!!

visit my home page at www.pscico.com/stu

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Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 21:58:37 -0700
From: "John Kosche"
Subject: 351 W heads

Can someone give me a dimes worth of information on a quick and dirty port
job on a pair of (' 89) 351 heads... Just went thru the engine and thought
I'd clean up the heads a little.. Any secrets?

jk
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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 07:04:11 PDT
From: "Jay Branscome"
Subject: Oil

Back in the late 60's and early 70's a friend of mines father ran a
service center that was sponsored by Penzoil. Since I worked and
learned there I got gas and oil for free. I have used Penzoil oil in my
cars ever since then and have never had a problem with it. I had a
64-1/2 Mustang, a 65 GTO with a 389 Tri power, a 57 Che-y 4 door, an 82
Ranger and an 84 Bronco II. Currently driving a 65 F100 with 235,000
miles on 2 rebuilds and still no problems.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 07:47:43 -0700
From: "PAUL MONTY"
Subject: Edelbrock Heads Updated

Fired-up the old truck last Friday and drove uncorked over to the muffler
man. After much thought (my wife had complained for years about the noise
the dual TurboMax system made), I opted for a 3" single system with an
extremely long 30" muffler. The "406" cast-iron manifolds are routed into
a "Flowmaster" y-collector, then to the 3" tubing. I like the sound,
throaty but not as noisy, and low-end torque seems a bit better.

The Edelbrock heads look trick, as you can imagine. Since I left the
bottom end (including the stock cam) as is for now, I haven't noticed much
in the way of increased performance, but I had the larger 2.09 intakes put
in the stock heads many years ago. With the Edelbrock Performer sitting
atop the heads (they recommend their Performer RPM, but come on--for a
truck application where would the torque go!!!), the combination is
probably the trickest-looking, least performing combo around. Really
though, I've pretty happy, no b.s.!! The original heads were in need of
hardened exhaust valve seats as the exhaust valves had sunk into their
seats about .125. Add to that, the exhaust manifolds had leaked for a
time, which would have made milling that surface a necessity. Would have
dumped at least $500 in the stock heads and the Edlebrock setup (which I
will probably use at some later date for a big-block Mustang--a dream I've
had for years) ended-up tagging me for about $1300...But I've got stainless
valves, hardened seats, a clone of the medium-riser 427 head (or so
Edelbrock says) and hoisting those heads (48lbs for both) on, and at a
later date, off...was pretty darn easy. If anyone wants more details on
the whole installation, feel free to e-mail me privately.

Lastly, I've always been happy with the cheapo "universal" Holley, Model
1850, 600cfm, manual choke, universal carb, which I installed several years
ago. I know a bunch of you guys don't like the Holleys and recommend
Edelbrock carbs (I see now they, too, cause some of you problems). I've
got the original air cleaner back on, along with the stove-pipe tube to the
exhaust manifolds (bent the hell out of them to get them to fit the 406
manifolds) and the truck runs well. I going to order the Holley jet
assortment (about $25 from Summit and maybe the quick change bowl that
allows jet changes without changing gaskets (about $45, I think). Having
paid $180 for the carb in '95, I still think I'd be way ahead of what
Edelbrock wants--especially if you opt for their metering rod tweaking kit.
All this said from a guy that shelled-out all that money for the Edelbrock
heads--Go Figure!!!

Actually, no other choice for aluminum heads, although I did notice that
DOVE advertises a new cast-iron castings for the FEs in the latest Ford
Motorsport catalog. Do I wish I would have seen that ad first--the jury is
still out!

Paul
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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:05:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: "New" 460 crank in old 460

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: "New" 460
> Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 14:11:52 -0400

> so, you really don't need a kit, just a crank. or you want all new
> rods, pins, pistons, etc.?

The engine has some miles on it, maybe 70-80k but I think the rings
are still sealing well enough that a new crank would give me some
more life out of it. The engine is quiet and makes good oil pressure
but can't keep oil in it due to crank seal surface all tore up.
Front main looks like the edge of a lawn mower blade that just went
through a pile of gravel.................I think mostly due to the
fact that the front seal doesn't works and lets dirt in, not sure?

I've had it out and replaced the bearings once already and the crank
just keeps tearing them up so this time I want a new or like new
crank and probably a sleeve too.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:30:12 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Heads Updated

PAUL MONTY

.Actually, no other choice for aluminum heads, although I did notice that

> DOVE advertises a new cast-iron castings for the FEs in the latest Ford
> Motorsport catalog. Do I wish I would have seen that ad first--the jury is
> still out!
>

Paul: Dove makes low,medium, and high rise aluminum heads too!

Regards:

John
78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 Gt500

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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 07:21:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: JJ Ford
Subject: NewBie

I've just discovered this message thread delivered by E-Mail, just for
all FTE'S!! Brothers and sisters!!! I'm one excited boy.

I've got a '79 F-100 with a 351 that I looooveee soooo much. But....I
just painted it, and the old tailgate must've had a tree fallen on it
10 years ago or something, because it is shaped like this--> U

Needless to say we didn't paint it...Anyone have any extras laying
around? Also, what is a good source for aftermarket door panels and
bedliners?

Hopefully these questions are not too stupid...I'm not much of a
mechanic...

'79 F-100
JJ

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:20:13 -0500
From: "Michael R. Masse"
Subject: Front D44 to 3/4 ton conversion

I'm in the midst of converting the Dana 44 in my 78 Bronco to a D44 HD
using parts from a 75 F250. The axle is in the shop right now getting a
gear swap, and I'm looking at axleshafts from both axles. The outer
shafts on the 75's are about an inch longer then the 78's, which is what
I expected to fit those monster hubs. The driver side (short) inner
shaft looks looks to be exactly the same length as the 78's, but the
75's pass side inner shaft is about an inch longer then the 78's. I
know there is a little bit of in/out play with the shafts but will an
inch cause a problem? Should I swap the 75 outer shaft to the 78's
inner shaft, or can I just leave it alone?

-Mike
Soon to be '78 Bronco 250
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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:32:43 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: NewBie

At 07:21 AM 4/29/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I've just discovered this message thread delivered by E-Mail, just for
>all FTE'S!! Brothers and sisters!!! I'm one excited boy.
>
>I've got a '79 F-100 with a 351 that I looooveee soooo much. But....I
>just painted it, and the old tailgate must've had a tree fallen on it
>10 years ago or something, because it is shaped like this--> U
>
>Needless to say we didn't paint it...Anyone have any extras laying
>around? Also, what is a good source for aftermarket door panels and
>bedliners?
>
>Hopefully these questions are not too stupid...I'm not much of a
>mechanic...
>
>
>'79 F-100
>JJ
>
>Obsolete Ford Parts in Oklahima has new reproduction tailgates for 199.95
for flletside bodies......800--654-3247 for orders

405-631-3933 for information about parts. They also have body parts and skins.

Stu
Nuke GM!
visit my homepage at www.pscico.com/stu/
>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
> >
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 09:43:52 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: NewBie

Stu Varner wrote:

> >Needless to say we didn't paint it...Anyone have any extras laying
> >around? Also, what is a good source for aftermarket door panels and
> >bedliners?

Ford dealers still have original tail gates in inventory. If you send me your area
code, I can look up the nearest dealer near you with a factory tailgate.

There is a webpage for a vendor called Coverlay that had reproduction door panels
for 73-79 trucks. Something like a $190 a pair.

Thanks
John

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 GT500

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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:51:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Front D44 to 3/4 ton conversion

> Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:20:13 -0500
> From: "Michael R. Masse"
> Subject: Front D44 to 3/4 ton conversion

> The driver side
> (short) inner shaft looks looks to be exactly the same length as the
> 78's, but the 75's pass side inner shaft is about an inch longer
> then the 78's. I know there is a little bit of in/out play with the
> shafts but will an inch cause a problem? Should I swap the 75 outer
> shaft to the 78's inner shaft, or can I just leave it alone?

The inner shafts should be identical since they must put the U-Joint
on the ball joint axis and the housings are the same so the inner
axle shafts should also be the same. The outer stubs need to be
mounted on the inner shafts of the LD or you should be able to use
the whole shaft out of the HD I should think?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
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sonic.net
Subject: Re: Hot starts

>> edelbrock/carter AFB
>> doesn't like more than about 6-7 psi at idle. My stock FE pump was
>> nearly
>> 11 psi!

>I use aftermarket low pressure electric pumps and they are supposed
>to be 6-7 psi but on my 460 with new float needles I had to use a
>regulator too. This may be what's wrong with the bronco as well but
>haven't had time to check it out. It has a mechanical pump right
>now. The only thing I wonder about with the regulators is how much
>they reduce the flow on an engine as big as the 460. I suspect it
>has an influence on my top end performance but not sure at this
>point.

Yeah, I wonder a littler about max flow on the regulator also.
I also have a new problem with mine. After a good hot soak, the
motor will start right up but sometimes after 20 seconds it dies
and won't restart. Inspection reveals empty float bowl and no amount
of cranking will get it going again. If I smack the regulator a
got shot with the butt end of a big screwdriver, it'll start right
up again after 2-3 seconds of cranking.
I was gonna buy a new regulator, but the guy at the local parts
house says they don't carry them anymore cuz folks had trouble with
them. Uh, huh. Me too...
I think my next step wil be to use a "bypass" type regulator that
returns excess fuel pressure back to the inlet of the pump.
Perhaps I can find one off a F.I. motor at the wreckers and modify
it for lower pressure.
I've also thought about taking the FE pump apart and changing the
spring to get lower pressure. That might be easiest...

Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro.
-- Hunter S. Thompson

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sonic.net
Subject: Re: Another question on FE

At 07:07 AM 4/29/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Did all fe Motors have oil slingers on the crank snout???All I have
>is the timing gear and a counter balance(i'm asuming that's what this
>heavy piece is)and then the front cover the shop manual keeps mentioning
>an oil slinger....

Uh, sound like someone's been in there before and forgot some parts...
I've never seen an FE without the slinger.

Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro.
-- Hunter S. Thompson

+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 13:56:49 -0700
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: Front D44 to 3/4 ton conversion

Michael R. Masse wrote:
>
> I'm in the midst of converting the Dana 44 in my 78 Bronco to a D44 HD
> using parts from a 75 F250. The axle is in the shop right now getting a
> gear swap, and I'm looking at axleshafts from both axles. The outer
> shafts on the 75's are about an inch longer then the 78's, which is what
> I expected to fit those monster hubs. The driver side (short) inner
> shaft looks looks to be exactly the same length as the 78's, but the
> 75's pass side inner shaft is about an inch longer then the 78's. I
> know there is a little bit of in/out play with the shafts but will an
> inch cause a problem? Should I swap the 75 outer shaft to the 78's
> inner shaft, or can I just leave it alone?
> Should be able to leave it alone, as far as I know. Everything from
the knuckle out is all you should need. Where exactly is the inner shaft
on passenger side longer? Are the splines longer? I have seen the outer
shafts on both sides have the snap ring groove in different spots
(depending on type of factory locking hub you have, I've seen three
different types), making outer shaft look longer or shorter
(comparatively), but I haven't run across what you've found yet. Anyway,
axles should be the same, so you should be able to use 78 axles with dana
44HD stuff. One other thing you could check for me just for kicks. Is the
outer wheel bearing on dana 44 the same as outer wheel bearing on dana 44
HD. Locking hub mech is exactly the same, thats the only reason I ask.

OX
+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
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juno.com (Jon E Purut)
Subject: site with good info

I was doing some looking around the web for Bronco information and came
across this site about front and rear Dana axles. Very informative.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dynatrac.com/dyna4x4.html

Jon E. Purut
Pickup65

juno.com
JCPurut

worldnet.att.net
Visit my site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~JCPurut

1964 F500 (can not think of anything clever right now)
1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100
1977 F150
1970 Mustang Fastback

+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
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