fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, April 22 1998 Volume 02 : Number 226



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Soaked Brake Shoes [Steve & Rockette ]
RE: Lubricating Temp Control Cable [DC Beatty ]
bed cover [NUTCH11 ]
Re: Recomend some reading [DGholsM ]
Time for some new glass ...:( ["Daniel H. Jenkins"
Strange fuse trouble [ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)]
Re: 1965 F-100 [bertolina juno.com (Roberta S Garner)]
Re: 1965 F-100, starter problems [bertolina juno.com (Roberta S Garner)]
ADMIN: Pardon our mess [Ken Payne ]
motor of choice??? [BERNE ]
Re: Lubricating Temp Control Cable ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: motor of choice??? ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: New 70 F100 owner questions [Don Grossman ]
Re: Hood Latch [Matt Polhamus ]
'66 Ranger pickup for sale [ROSITCH SSRL.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU]
Synthetics ["Harvey, Blaine" ]

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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 17:47:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Re: Soaked Brake Shoes

At 01:27 PM 21/4/98 -0700, you wrote:
>From: Stu
>>Actually, Deacon, Oh wise one and full of spirit,
>
>Isn't "wise" just half a word? Thanks, my wife says I'm full of
>something else and it don't smell like spirit to me! :)
>
>Deacon


Yeah, but the spirit seems to be coming out of that bottle
you got tucked behind the seat!!!! 8^{)

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'63 F100 Longbox

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 21:28:22 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: Lubricating Temp Control Cable

Keith. It might not hurt to grease up the doors that control air directio=
n
either. They are the doors/flaps/a proper word escapes me that are on the=

heater box and direct the air to defrost or heat, etc. The cables loosen
right up too if you work them back and forth and spray in the goo.

Drew Beatty
1967 F100 352 (soon to be 390)
1974 Maverick 302


Hi all,

Is there anyway to lubricate the cable attached to the Temp Control and
other Dash Mounted Cable Controls???

I know they make a Cable Lubricating Tool for Throttle and Clutch Cables
for Motorcycles. How about for Trucks and Cars???

Thanks!

Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ =

1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Bo=
x,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air=

Cleaner, =

Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box Style Side.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 21:47:27 EDT
From: NUTCH11
Subject: bed cover

hi

i was wondering about getting a fiberglass bed cover for a 65 f250 with an 8
ft bed
all the dealers have listed is for newer trucks .
are the new 8 ft beds that much different or do the dealers only know what the
catalog says and not much about the dimensions.

thanks
john
nutch11 aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 22:15:02 EDT
From: DGholsM
Subject: Re: Recomend some reading

I find justg reading old motor manuals or the history of automobiles (ford) is
quite interesrting to me. Not much running around to find them either. SEMPER
FI.



GySgt. DMG
71 F-350
77 Lincoln

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 20:06:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
Subject: Time for some new glass ...:(

Well, as if getting my truck stuck wasn't bad enough, I had to
leave it up on the mountain over night. :( And, when I came back the next
day, some punk kids had broken the rear window out of my camper shell. I
suppose that the good news is that the piece of glass is flat and shaped
like a trapazoid. The bad news is that glass for it is on the order of
$100. At least, those are the quotes I've been getting. I'm now
considering putting plexiglass in the window. I've heard mixed things
about using plexiglass, however. Some have told me that it will warp,
change color, and scratch easily. Of course, plexiglass is the same stuff
that they used in bombers during WWII. I can't imagine it being used in
such a critical aplication if it wasn't worthy of it. Anybody out there
have any ideas? BTW, what would be the easiest to install the glass?
Take it to somebody? I do suffer from poor college student syndrome,
though. Thanks for any help. CYA.

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel H. JenkinsFood for thought: John Milton
djenkins honors.unr.eduwrote _Paradise_Lost_; When his
Honors Programwife died he wrote _Paradise_
University of Nevada, Reno_Regained_...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 22:10:17 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: Strange fuse trouble

The other day my turn signals stopped working. I pulled the fuse and put
another in, they worked. The fuse I pulled looked OK, I put it back in and
they worked. Last night my dash lights went out. I pushed in on the fuse and
they worked again. Question: Both were a rainy humid days, has anyone had
this happen to them, and what did you do to fix it? I'm going to WD-40 all
of the contacts, but I have a feeling that the wires connecting it are
corroded. Short of replacing the loom and box what measures do you reccomend?

On the C-6 governor posting, the trans in question gave 100,000 miles of
exemplary service after the deed, but, if the the guy had told me what he
planned to do, I would have probably said no. I should have had the radiator
tanked out, (this includes an external cooler) and this I reccomend as the
best preventive medicine. An important point I think was that he grabbed
Park not Reverse, and just let it gurgle a couple of times, then put it back
in Drive and drove on. It was only in Park for a second,and hardly slowed us
at all. I know you guys think I'm crazy, but it it happened, and it worked
on that one.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 21:15:45 -0700
From: bertolina juno.com (Roberta S Garner)
Subject: Re: 1965 F-100

In reply to your question, the key stays put (doesn't return to the on
position on it's own). The starter has only continued to run on it's own
just the one time during the jumper cable process. I got the truck
started just fine this pm after re-charging the battery. If it follows
it's usual course, the truck will be trouble free for a couple days while
the battery gradually drains. We've been unable to find any draws on the
battery. My brother does most of the work on this truck but even he is
clueless. I rescheduled the original appointment with an auto electric
mechanic. Thanks for your feedback. Roberta
On Mon, 20 Apr 1998 20:40:03 -0700 (PDT) Steve & Rockette
writes:
>At 07:17 PM 20/4/98 -0700, you wrote
>
>>. While it was connected to the other vehicle, I turned the
>>ignition off and at one point, the starter continued to run (weakly).
>
>>There was also a great amount of heat that was generated in the
>jumper
>>cables during this process. Any new ideas would be appreciated.
>
> The selonoid is hanging closed (circuit to starter is energized), or
>the
>ignition
>switch spring is broken. Does the key return to the "run" position on
>it's own??
>My '63 almost ran me over, I had driven home from work, when I shut
>the truck
>off the starter was still running, it wasnt engaged, just running. I
>disconnected
>the battery in a hurry, the starter stopped running. Now heres the
>part that
>makes me look like an idiot, I had shut the truck off, left it in
>gear, ( I
>have a
>flat driveway I usually dont even leave it in gear, or set the brake),
>When I
>reconnected the battery, the truck tried to start. 8^0. Think about
>that for a
>few seconds, there you are, leaning on the fender, and your leaning
>post
>is trying to leave, without you.....
> I quickly disconnected the battery, then went and changed shorts.
>Then I
>jumped into the 57 and drove to the parts house for a new selonoid.
>
>Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
>'63 F100 Longbox
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979
>--------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net,
>|
>| List removal information is on the web site.
>|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
>----------+
>

_____________________________________________________________________
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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 21:22:12 -0700
From: bertolina juno.com (Roberta S Garner)
Subject: Re: 1965 F-100, starter problems

Gary, thanks for your feedback. My brother does most of the work on this
truck but even he is stumped as to what's causing the problem. I should
be able to get it over to the garage if I recharge the battery and then
keep it disconnected until time to drive to the shop. I recharged the
battery over night and the truck started just fine this pm. I have an
appointment with an auto electric shop that reportedly has a good
reputation...I'll let you know what they find out. Roberta in Tucson AZ
On Tue, 21 Apr 1998 10:03:27 +0000 "Gary, 78 BBB"
writes:
>> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 19:17:16 -0700
>> Subject: Re: 1965 F-100
>> From: bertolina juno.com (Roberta S Garner)
>
>> went to start it this morning, the starter initially turned over but
>> before the truck started the starter slowed down and eventually
>> would not turn over at all. I then tried jumper cables and the
>> starter behaved the same way with the jumper cables. While it was
>> connected to the other vehicle, I turned the ignition off and at one
>> point, the starter continued to run (weakly). There was also a great
>> amount of heat that was generated in the jumper cables during this
>> process. Any new ideas would be appreciated. I actually was trying
>
>I'm taking some wild guesses here but the first thing that comes to
>mind is the engine and chassis grounds. If the battery ground cable
>is not in good condition there may not be enough wire to carry the
>load and if the chassis ground is bad part of the ground for the
>starter can go through the alternator or generator wiring and
>this inadequate ground causes a serious voltage drop so amperage is
>increased dramatically causing the heat etc.. Because you say the
>battery is not holding up this points me in this direction too
>because this condition limits the ability to charge the battery as
>well.
>
>The next most likely thing is start relay or ignition switch not
>working correctly. Since the starter has no power when the relay is
>off there is no way for it to run on unless the ignition switch is
>bad or the relay is bad. If the relay contacts are damaged the
>voltage would drop again causing high amperage and thus heat and
>could hang causing the starter to run on. The two above conditions
>will eventually destroy the stater as well and when you get these
>fixed you may still have to replace it as it may already be damaged
>from over amperage (heat). The old starter armatures are soldered
>with a high temp solder (higher than store stuff) but it still can be
>melted out if the starter gets hot enough
>
>The last thing I would suspect with the list of symptoms you posted
>is the starter but it's always a possibility that there are more than
>one item at fault. If the battery wires jump when you hit the start
>switch there is probably a dead short in the starter or the bad
>ground is elevating the amperage to very high levels.
>
>78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
>78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
>78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
>
>-- Gary --
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979
>--------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net,
>|
>| List removal information is on the web site.
>|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
>----------+
>

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 00:33:30 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Pardon our mess

Our web site news....

Well, the new server is live. It caught me by surprize. Internic
usually takes 2-3 weeks to update a DNS entry to I applied today
to get the domain transferred over. I figured this would give
my a week or two to get everything working. Well, just when you
thought you could count on an organization to be slow they did
the update in 8 hours!

So now the new server is active, but many things on it will be
broken for the next few days (including chat, sorry). Current
list services are paid for through May 18th so I have 4 weeks
to get the new mailing lists working. One item in the works, a
Performance/Hot Rod Ford truck list, if there is enough support.

Grin and bear it, the site will be back to normal ASAP. Sorry
if I ignore the list administration for a few days.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 22:37:01 -0700
From: BERNE
Subject: motor of choice???

Hey there everybody!!! I am going to post this again because I think it =
got lost in that mix up a little while ago...so..Here goes. =20
I am soon to be puchasing a about '79 full size Bronco..and in it now =
has a 351M that is completly toast. From my experience, those never had =
much get up anyway. SO...the question is....with a choice of any motor =
to throw in there, what would you suggest. keep in mind, I will most =
likely rebuild what ever motor I pick, and maybe hop it up a little, but =
i want to not keep something resembling gas milage. I used to have a =
Jeep with a chev 327 [sorry :( ] that pushed about 400 hp. with 4.56 =
gears..that equals about 4 mpg. That's exactly what i don't want. =
SO..for milage, and power...what motor...and what are some good building =
tips to get a little more go out of it??? Thanks already!!

Berne
strome ucs.orst.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 23:29:31 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Lubricating Temp Control Cable

Deacon! Far be it from me to ever even begin to try to take your place. No
one could ever fill those shoes. The thought never even crossed my mind!
Besides didn't your momma ever tell you that imitation is the sincerest
form of flattery.

OK is that enough groveling?

FTC: Can anyone tell me whether or not it's worth the time & effort to
degree the cam. I just read about it on some page and it sounds like allot
of work. I've always just lined up the marks on the cam & crank gear and
called it good!

- ----------
> From: Deacon
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: Lubricating Temp Control Cable
> Date: Tuesday, April 21, 1998 1:36 PM
>
> From: Bill Beyer
> >This must apply to drag racing in alfalfa fields as well...;-)
>
> Are you trying to take my job as the list (fill in word)? I don't need
> the competition thank you vary much! Trust me, my thanks varies very
> much. :)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 23:39:38 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: motor of choice???

Boy did you open up a can of worms! But I'm kinda tired now so I'm gonna
stick with the short answer. Obviously the easiest swap would be a "new"
351M. A 400M would also bolt up quite nicely with no other major mods. A
429 or 460 would even bolt right to the bellhousing with new motor mounts
and exhaust. An FE or SB would require a tranny swap.

- ----------
> From: BERNE
> To: 'ford trucks'
> Subject: motor of choice???
> Date: Tuesday, April 21, 1998 10:37 PM
>
> Hey there everybody!!! I am going to post this again because I think it
got lost in that mix up a little while ago...so..Here goes.
> I am soon to be puchasing a about '79 full size Bronco..and in it now has
a 351M that is completly toast. From my experience, those never had much
get up anyway. SO...the question is....with a choice of any motor to throw
in there, what would you suggest. keep in mind, I will most likely rebuild
what ever motor I pick, and maybe hop it up a little, but i want to not
keep something resembling gas milage. I used to have a Jeep with a chev
327 [sorry :( ] that pushed about 400 hp. with 4.56 gears..that equals
about 4 mpg. That's exactly what i don't want. SO..for milage, and
power...what motor...and what are some good building tips to get a little
more go out of it??? Thanks already!!
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 23:53:48 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: New 70 F100 owner questions

craig001 mc.duke.edu wrote:

> Hi All
>
> I am the new owner of a 1970 F100 short bed stepside. It has had a
> long and glorious career as a logging truck, cross-country love-mobile
> (don't ask!)
>

I'll answer all your questions in the morning (need sleeeeeeppppp) but for
right now, I GOTA KNOW!

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 01:29:01 -0500
From: Matt Polhamus
Subject: Re: Hood Latch

I had the same problem with my 76 F-150. I just used some spray white lithum
grease and the solved the problem..It was so bad that I broke the handle off my
latch one time. Now it opens very easy after I greased it.

Warren Anderson wrote:

> This is probably a common problem is that when you pull from the outside to
> pop the hood the hood does not release so you have to bang on it to get it
> to pop open. My question is there any way to adjust the spring or something
> else to make it where the hood will release when pulling on the handle? So I
> do not have to bang on it.
>
> Warren
> 1978 F-100 351M C6
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 00:44:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: ROSITCH SSRL.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU
Subject: '66 Ranger pickup for sale

Hello everyone,
I see no one else replied to this guys note about the '66 Ranger for
sale in Sacramento???? The Ranger package in '66 was essentially a
pair of Mustang bucket seats and a Galaxie center console, carpeting
and emblems (did I leave anything out?). I was thinking of making my
'66 F250 into one of these until I tried a set of bucket seats for a
while (not as comfortable as the bench!). I still have the emblems....

---

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