fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, April 20 1998 Volume 02 : Number 222



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

FE head I.D [Zigstr ]
Re: FE head I.D [John MacNamara ]
RE:hindsight/foresight [ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)]
RE:hindsight/foresight [Dan Koster ]
Re: Electric fuel pump-? [Ractrk002 ]
'63 to 390 [ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)]
Re: '63 to 390 [Dan Koster ]
C-6 troubles [ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)]
Re: Electric fuel pump-? [Mike Schwall ]
Removing Old Headers [ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)]
Re: C-6 troubles ["Deacon" ]
RE: C-6 troubles [DC Beatty ]
RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's & sleepers [Sleddog ]
RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's & sleepers [Dan Koster ]
RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's & sleepers [Sleddog ]
Jake's pickup - the saga begins [Mark Moburg ]
Re: Jake's pickup - the saga begins ["Bill Beyer" ]
Hydraulic boosted brakes [sbest ]
Removing old header bolts [Bill Adams ]
RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's & sleepers [DC Beatty
Deacon [Bruce Hart ]
Re: Removing Old Headers [marko ]
75 Ranger [Michelle ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 07:12:14 EDT
From: Zigstr
Subject: FE head I.D

Need help in identifing cylinder head part # C4AZ-6069-G. My ID book tells me
standard 352-390 head,but the intake ports match that of a 427 low riser(no
port work has been done)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 05:46:29 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: FE head I.D

Zigstr wrote:
>
> Need help in identifing cylinder head part # C4AZ-6069-G. My ID book tells me
> standard 352-390 head,but the intake ports match that of a 427 low riser

Zigstr: They should because a 427 low rise head is the same design as
the 390 head except for the exhaust bolt set up and any high performance
stuff that may be found on the 427 such as valves, machined combustion
chambers,etc.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 08:35:11 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: RE:hindsight/foresight

>Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 19:16:46 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Dan Koster
>Subject: hindsight/foresight




>Let life's wisdom speak into my ears. What would you do in my shoes
>now?

I'm not to be mistaken for a fount of wisdom, but I can share my regrets.

If I had kept the structural integrity of the '67 up. Cab mounts, center
support, floor. Theyr'e all going to have to come out because I wasn't smart
enough to flush the mud out of the mounts twice a year and WD-40 them. Or
replace the rubber door seals to keep water from standing (under nice,new
carpet)in the floor. I wish overall that I had not taken the old truck for
granted like I did. It gave me great service, starting on the coldest
mornings, and ripping like a champ every time everytime I felt like showing
my a**. And I made it a heap, the first vehicle I ever owned. But lessons
learned, I'll make up for it when I strip it all down, replace the floor and
mounts, and paint it wild cherry red, and bring that 390 and C-6 back to life.
It will still be a Rod/Truck, but it will be what it should have been. I owe it.

To everyone who replied to my posting on this subject, I want to make sure
that you understand that I respect your right to turn your automotive canvas
into whatever your minds eye sees. I doesn't have to fit my taste, or meet
my expectations and I apologize to anyone who I might have offended with my
views. One thing that I've learned though, is like the Piccaso's and
Mattisse's of the world, it's not a bad idea to treat the canvas like you
want it to last a while.


Ballinger
Preferred Company
ballingr ldd.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 07:40:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Koster
Subject: RE:hindsight/foresight

> >Let life's wisdom speak into my ears. What would you do in my shoes
> >now?
>
> I'm not to be mistaken for a fount of wisdom, but I can share my
regrets.


William,

Thanks for the advice. I'll keep those things on my long term goal
list.

now...


...and paint it wild cherry red, and bring that
> 390 and C-6 back to life.
> It will still be a Rod/Truck, but it will be what it
> should have been. I owe it.


What modifications did you do to make it a Rod/Truck with the 390 and
C-6?

Thanks,

Dan
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 10:45:15 EDT
From: Ractrk002
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump-?

Sounds like my truck when I don't set the choke right.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 10:20:22 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: '63 to 390

>I'm about to put a 390 into a 63 F100 and am just praying that I'll figure
it >out o.k. I plan on adding an aluminum intake, new carb, headers and
tubes. >Then I'll start working on the body, etc.

The '63 used a front mount and bellhousing mounts at the rear ( bellhousing
stays in the truck when you pull the engine ) with no trans crossmember.
This can be a small problem if you want an automatic, I've never seen a
modern trans with a provision for this mounting system. You could adapt or
fabricate a rear crossmember for the trans mount if you're going that way,
just measure it across, you can fabricate a drop mounting to take care of
the up and down part. From looking at my '65 4X bellhousing it should mount
about any kind of 3 or 4 speed Ford used in the '60's and '70's, and some
'80's. Keeping your stock trans will simplify things a lot. You will need a
front mount for an FE which can be problem since as far as I know only were
only used in '65 and '66 4X's. I'd bet that an NOS or aftermarket mount
exists. I don't know whether your existing mount can be modified to work or
not. Another option is to adapt a '65 or '66 front crossmember to your frame
with it's FE mounting pads. I've never seen it done though, so I can't say
what you'd go through on that. A driveshaft will likely have to be made if
you stray from the stock tranny.

Everything else is pretty straight forward. Mark the wiring well, you might
have to do some patching in on your oil pressure,( add a guage)temp senders
and ignition wires. Throttle linkage etc. will take a little ingenuity, but
you can do it, just make sure it doesn't bind, and has good clips on it.

You didn't say what you are taking out, so I don't know about your gearing.
If it's a six you'll probably want to change the gears.

While the engine is out, dig out and repair any rust that you can find,
you'll thank yourself down the road. This is where I went wrong on my '67,
the fork in the road, so to speak. The early syle cab mounts don't seem as
rust prone as the later style, so this may not be as much work as it seems.
It would be a good time for kingpins and brakes if you need it. If your
steering box is loose, fix it now because you wont be able to do much with
it once the engine is installed, especially with headers.

This sounds like a good project, keep us posted on your progress.


Ballinger
Preferred Company
ballingr ldd.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 08:44:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Koster
Subject: Re: '63 to 390

William,

thanks for your advice. I really need it.


> Keeping your stock trans will simplify things a lot.

I will be keeping the T98-A 4-speed on-the-floor tranny. It has the
old granny gear, 6.20 if I'm right.


> You will need a front mount for an FE which can be
> problem since as far as I know only were
> only used in '65 and '66 4X's. I'd be that an NOS or
> aftermarket mount exists.


That's one of my biggest concerns. However, I've been told that
whatever fit a '65 will fit any 59-64 under the hood, even though they
didn't offer the FE at the that time.


> Another option is to adapt a '65 or '66 front crossmember
> to your frame with it's FE mounting pads. I've never seen
> it done though, so I can't say what you'd go through on
> that.

I have no access to welding tools, etc. So I think I'll be doing a
lot of knuckle-breaking steel bending.


> You didn't say what you are taking out, so I don't know about your
gearing.
> If it's a six you'll probably want to change the gears.


It is a six. A 223 I6 that isn't the original, although that was the
specified original engine.

What gears will I need to change, and what do you recommend?


Once again, thanks for sharing your hard-earned knowledge with a
first-timer like myself. (first V-8, that is)


Dan
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 10:43:35 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: C-6 troubles

>I have the same problem with my C-6. Low speed (10-15 mph) usually in a
>turn and going uphill the trans chatters from 2nd to 1st.
>chatter goes away. Talked to a transmission guy who seemed to know his
>stuff and he thought it could be an adjustment on the vacuum modulator
>that controls shift firmness. He offered to adjust it free. Just
>haven't had time to get it in to him

That will probably help, your kickdown may be a little sloppy too, playing
with it may yield a little bit.

While on C-6's a little trick I've learned is that if you get some trash in
your governor, usually after changing out a fried trans, this can cause
erratic shifting. Get up to 35 or so and stuff it in Park. It will clean out
the governor. The first time I saw it done I thought "sheee****t!!!", but it
worked like a charm, with no collateral damage. This was only on the C-6
that I know of, I've never seen it done on anything else.


Ballinger
Preferred Company
ballingr ldd.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 10:54:03 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump-?

At 04:05 AM 4/18/98 , you wrote:
>Whenever I start my truck, I have to sit in it for 10 minutes working
>the gas pedal to keep it from stalling until it warms up. It's a 76 F250
>360 with manual choke on the original carb (2100-?). I was thinking that
>an electric fuel pump might solve the problem. What do you guys think?
>And if I do go with the electric pump, should I by-pass the mechanical
>pump or leave it in?

Try re-setting the choke, fast idle speed and idle mixture screws. If the
truck dosen't die from lack of gas on the highway or once it warms up, then
the pump is fine.

Mike

________________________________________
Email: mschwall texas.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.texas.net/~mschwall

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 10:54:49 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: Removing Old Headers

>I was plannig on put on a whole new exahust system. I was wondering
>if anybody had any tips for taking the rust bolts out of the engine
>block any easier.

Shoot penetrating oil on the bolt heads and tap them lightly with a hammer,
square from the top of the bolt. I ususally soak them and tap them a couple
of times over a two day period.
When you get the socket on them, make sure that it fits tight, bolt heads
will shrink a little, and I've had to use a metric socket that fit tighter
to keep from knocking the ears off. Tighten the bolt a little bit, reverse
it, and it will come loose. 302's usually aren't that bad, it's FE's that
will make a preacher cuss.


Ballinger
Preferred Company
ballingr ldd.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 09:59:55 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: C-6 troubles

From: WILLIAM L BALLINGER
>While on C-6's a little trick I've learned is that if you get some
trash in
>your governor, usually after changing out a fried trans, this can cause
>erratic shifting. Get up to 35 or so and stuff it in Park. It will
clean out
>the governor.

Are you mad at us? Hey, do we call you William or Bill or late for
dinner, what? :) Anyway back to the C6. What happens with the parking
gear when you do this? Will the lever on the governor float over the
gear? How long do you keep it in park before putting it back in drive?
Are you sure about this? Are you nuts? :) If this was someone else
suggesting this maneuver would you,,, OK, never mind that last one. :)

Wakeup Call!

Deacon
deconblu gte.net
==============================================
Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
==============================================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 13:20:49 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: C-6 troubles

Yeah, I'm definitely not making any recommendations but I have seen this
too. A good friend of mine has built trannys for years and he got my
Maverick (C-4) up to about 20mph and jammed it into reverse to free up a
governor. In reverse and then immediately back to drive--just enough to
make me pucker. It forces an explosion of fluid and dislodges any crap
that's jamming the governor. It worked. If it's done in park it shouldn't=

be more than 20mph and definitely don't let it come to a stop in park. Bu=
t,
again, I'm not making any recommendations, just telling what I've seen an=
d
been told. =


Drew Beatty
1967 F100 352 (soon to be 390)
1974 Maverick 302



>I have the same problem with my C-6. Low speed (10-15 mph) usually in a=

>turn and going uphill the trans chatters from 2nd to 1st.
>chatter goes away. Talked to a transmission guy who seemed to know his
>stuff and he thought it could be an adjustment on the vacuum modulator
>that controls shift firmness. He offered to adjust it free. Just
>haven't had time to get it in to him

That will probably help, your kickdown may be a little sloppy too, playin=
g
with it may yield a little bit. =


While on C-6's a little trick I've learned is that if you get some trash =
in
your governor, usually after changing out a fried trans, this can cause
erratic shifting. Get up to 35 or so and stuff it in Park. It will clean
out
the governor. The first time I saw it done I thought "sheee****t!!!", but=

it
worked like a charm, with no collateral damage. This was only on the C-6
that I know of, I've never seen it done on anything else. =



Ballinger
Preferred Company
ballingr ldd.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 14:15:13 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's & sleepers

sorry, i wasn't directing my statement towards any one person in particular
on this list, but many people i meet around my home. i started with a
fairly prime piece of iron, but allowed the elements to take their toll
over many winterrs of it being a daily driver. now i build the engine and
drivetrain. later i will fix the body. as for my defination of sleeper,
it differs from yours, but still is true. for many of us horsepower and
performance addicts the "look" of the vehicle just doesn't mean as much as
the performance.

for example, bob gliddons son runs a mustang that looks like it was rear
ended by a freight train, has half primer, some rust, and lots of missing
paint on the plastic pieces. he runs hot street class i think. he wins
more than not, but the car looks like crap. his money went into making the
car quick, not pretty.

i enjoy driving my 77 ford on the street (not often enough unfortunatly)
more than my finely painted and cushy 94 truck, even tho it has some rust
now, power steering that is almost useless, and brakes that are only 75% of
what they were 2 yrs ago, no a/c, wind noise, loud exhaust, broken seat
springs (still waiting to get $$$ for racing buckets), no radio, too stiff
rear springs.........but i am building for competition, where HP and
traction win, not paint and pretty frabric on the seats.

why do i enjoy it? i built the engine, assembled the truck, built many
custom suspension pieces and brackets, and enjoy the thrill of a good WFOT
blast that many drag racers would be proud of.

sorry if i offended you, i was just showing "the other side".

sleddog

- ----------
From: WILLIAM L BALLINGER[SMTP:ballingr ldd.net]
Sent: Friday, April 17, 1998 9:31 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's


If you're referring to my truck as a finished piece of iron that someone
else built, I'll tell you this. I have a 99.5% rust free truck with a

Ballinger
Preferred Company
ballingr ldd.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 14:38:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Koster
Subject: RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's & sleepers

sleddog wrote:
...for many of us horsepower and performance addicts
> the "look" of the vehicle just doesn't mean as much as
> the performance.


I agree with sleddog. However, I don't think that you can really
appreciate the vehicle fully without making an effort to keep it
structurally clean.

IMHO, it's performance before looks.
Not performance without looks.

Don't we all wish our rig looked just a bit nicer? (We just don't
want to have to pay for it)

It's really just a matter of pride.

Dan
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 18:11:56 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's & sleepers

i think that is what i was trying to say, just no so eloquently as you did.
it is performance before looks, not without it. but, many times projects
tend to be ended, forgotton, or otherwise never finished no matter how much
we want them to be perfect. especially as younger people i think many of
us in the sport/hobby tend to jump into something and later find that we
may be over our heads, and then abandon it for something "better". but
before a project is finished or even close to it, it is fun to drive it
around as a "roach" (a safe one of course, but in my younger days safety
was secondary, dumb by hindsight of course. oh the stories i could tell!)

sleddog

- ----------
From: Dan Koster[SMTP:rumpus1 yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 1998 10:38 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's & sleepers

sleddog wrote:
...for many of us horsepower and performance addicts
> the "look" of the vehicle just doesn't mean as much as
> the performance.


I agree with sleddog. However, I don't think that you can really
appreciate the vehicle fully without making an effort to keep it
structurally clean.

IMHO, it's performance before looks.
Not performance without looks.

Don't we all wish our rig looked just a bit nicer? (We just don't
want to have to pay for it)

It's really just a matter of pride.

Dan
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?







+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
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+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 19:23:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Moburg
Subject: Jake's pickup - the saga begins

Went over to my nephew's today; we ran the '61 F-100 he just bought again, and I figured the noise is something worse than the valve train. Listening with a stethoscope sounds like the knock is in the bottom end.

Jake told me his neighbor ran it with the oil pump not working. Ouch.

Pulled off a rod cap, and the bearing shell has worn through the white metal, so we decided the engine's coming out. Spent some time taking out the radiator, disconnecting the coil lead, oil and water sender leads, and throttle linkage.

Question for the list: who's got the best prices on bearings and other engine parts? I called a local parts place that I use for my little furrin' cars and asked my friend behind the counter to price mains and rod bearings, since he gives me the shop price. He put me on hold, came back and asked, "What have you gotten yourself into? Those bearings are more expensive than a Jaguar!" :^( Best price he could get was about $79 for a rod set and $105 for the mains. What gives???

I checked J.C. Witless, and wouldn't you know? they list 2 types of 223 engine: 1952-1960 and 1962-1964. Jake's is a '61. The mains on both have the same part no. so I think we can use those, but the rods have different no's. Does anyone know what the difference is and/or when the change was made?

I'll post the ongoing saga. Be well, all.
Mark Moburg
MarkMoburg mindspring.com
Seattle, Washington

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 18:11:10 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Jake's pickup - the saga begins

Kanter lists the main set for $45 and the rods for $4 ea. They're at www.
kanter.com or (800) 526-1096.

- ----------
> From: Mark Moburg
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Jake's pickup - the saga begins
> Date: Saturday, April 18, 1998 4:23 PM
>
> Question for the list: who's got the best prices on bearings and other
engine parts? I called a local parts place that I use for my little
furrin' cars and asked my friend behind the counter to price mains and rod
bearings, since he gives me the shop price. He put me on hold, came back
and asked, "What have you gotten yourself into? Those bearings are more
expensive than a Jaguar!" :^( Best price he could get was about $79 for
a rod set and $105 for the mains. What gives???
>
> I checked J.C. Witless, and wouldn't you know? they list 2 types of 223
engine: 1952-1960 and 1962-1964. Jake's is a '61. The mains on both have
the same part no. so I think we can use those, but the rods have different
no's. Does anyone know what the difference is and/or when the change was
made?
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 08:16:33 -0300
From: sbest
Subject: Hydraulic boosted brakes

>> From: "John LaGrone"
>> Subject: PS Coolers & Hood Ornaments
>
>> I finally remembered where the biggest power steering coolers were
>> and why. I had a 77 Eldorado that had a very nice setup. The big
>> Eldo's and the GM (sorry for the expletive) diesels of this vintage
>> used the power steering pump as the booster for the brakes also.


>From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
>
>My 78 town car has this brake system. I'm thinking very seriously
>about putting it to good use in the bronco. What do y'all think?
>
I had this system on a 78(?) Colony Park(?) fullsized station wagon,
and it was on all the mid 70's extended cab 2wd pick ups at work.
Worked real nice Gary, excellent firm pedal feel and modulation.

One thing I have always hated about vacuum brakes is that I most
require them after an extended low vacuum session, ie: WOT.
If there is a less than perfect seal to the system, poor brakes!

I might wonder how the hydraulic system would hold up for rugged
off-roading, you know: engine idling, lots of brake and steering use?



Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tire chains, camping gear, tools, Bronco and some shooting stuff too.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 21:02:43 -0500
From: Bill Adams
Subject: Removing old header bolts

Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 22:22:26 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Removing Old Headers

Forwarded for BJGR47D prodigy.com (MR RYAN STACK):

I have a 72 Bronco with a 68 302 in it. It has rusty (not worth
saving) headers on it.

I was plannig on put on a whole new exahust system. I was wondering
if anybody had any tips for taking the rust bolts out of the engine
block any easier.

A friend just replaced the exh manifolds on hsis 73 Olds Cutlass (Ok
It's not a Ford but this is a universal tip)
Before he started he soaked the nuts daily for a week with penetrant,
and then the real trick...
He started the engine and warmed it up before pulling the bolts. It was
hot, careful work but he didn't break a single bolt.

Hey it's worth a try.
- --

Bill Adams

The WoodButcher's Shop
"http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/heartland/plains/6640"

,.-----__
,:::://///,:::-.
/:''/////// ``:::`;/|/
/' |||||| :://'`\
.' , |||||| `/( e \
-===~__-'\__X_`````\_____/~`-._ `.
~~ ~~ `~-'
**************************************************************
* "Time was when the mystery and wonder of handicrafts *
* were well acknowledged by the world, when imagination *
* and fancy mingled with all things made by man; *
* and in those days all craftsmen were artists." -MORRIS *
**************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 23:23:11 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's & sleepers

Sleddog wrote:


=

custom suspension pieces and brackets, and enjoy the thrill of a good WFO=
T =

blast that many drag racers would be proud of.>>

Exactly. Plus, for me, there is the feeling of knowing that I can do stuf=
f
like this. I bought my '67 for $525 and _put it_ on the road. It had
several Mickey mouse little problems that made it unsafe and unreliable.=
I
fixed that stuff. It's still a rat...almost too ugly to submit to Ken for=

display on the webpage, and it's no racetruck, but that stuff will come. =
I
drive it everyday. And it's mine. I make truck go!!! I'm not helpless whe=
n
stuff goes wrong with it either.

Speaking of rats, my Maverick is so ugly it kills all vegetation it is
parked near. Dogs won't even pee on it. I paid $200 for it in 1990, drove=

it everyday for years until I came upon the truck, and it's still reliabl=
e
enough to keep. I could go get it right now and drive it. =


I work with a lady who just bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee and paid more fo=
r
her license plates than I paid for my entire truck. But she looks real
cool---keeping up with the Jones's. =


Nothing wrong with that. That's great for her. Not me...I'm definitely
"function before form." =


Drew Beatty
1967 F100 352 (soon to be 390)
1974 Maverick 302

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 23:31:07 -0400
From: Bruce Hart
Subject: Deacon

Sorry Deacon,no smart comeback right now,just got off work and all the
smarts went to bed without me.Your absolutly right about the post to
Jamie,so I will recant and tell Jamie my reasons for the blower
suggestion are out of line.My reasons involve more than just getting
more power and not widely held by others,the last two days of posts will
have proved that out.My apoligies to Jamie if my post caused any
problems.Sometimes I forget to engage the brain before letting the
clutch out,not the first time,probably not the last.I enjoy reading the
posts and will continue to do so,I'm not that thin skinned Deacon,as I
said it was a bad hair day and I dug more than one pit that day,such is
life.Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 23:46:32 -0700
From: marko
Subject: Re: Removing Old Headers

At 10:54 AM 4/18/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>I was plannig on put on a whole new exahust system. I was wondering
>>if anybody had any tips for taking the rust bolts out of the engine
>>block any easier.
>
>Shoot penetrating oil on the bolt heads and tap them lightly with a hammer,
>square from the top of the bolt. I ususally soak them and tap them a couple
>of times over a two day period.
>When you get the socket on them, make sure that it fits tight, bolt heads
>will shrink a little, and I've had to use a metric socket that fit tighter
>to keep from knocking the ears off. Tighten the bolt a little bit, reverse
>it, and it will come loose. 302's usually aren't that bad, it's FE's that
>will make a preacher cuss.
>

No kidding. I've been there on the FE.

This may be a bit pedantic, but here goes anyway. In case anyone was wondering:

Bolts are hard to remove when they are rusty. The rust crystals "bond" the
bolt and the hole together. The crystals are strong, but brittle.

The idea is to break the crystals, by shocking them or by the use of
differential heat expansion of hole vs. bolt. The idea is NOT that you
should try breaking the rust crystal by twisting the bolt.

In the case of the manifold bolts, don't bother trying to torch them, as
there's too much valuable stuff to burn accidentally.

Make sure you attempt to remove them while the engine is hot. This not only
ensures angry welts on your knuckles, but also ensures the bolt holes are
expanded.

Hit the bolt tops with a ball peen hammer or with a hammer and drift, hard.
Square like George said.

Then when you go to remove them, instead of just turning the wrench and
yanking on it, whack the wrench a couple of times to try to break the bolt free.....


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