fordtrucks61-79-digest Saturday, April 18 1998 Volume 02 : Number 221
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
Re: PS Coolers & Hood Ornaments ["Bill Beyer" ]
FS Saacramento area [Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)]
RE: humidity & engine behavior problems [DC Beatty
Re Ps &PB & Exhaust ["Hogan, Tom" ]
Re: Dextron/ Type F ATF ["Hogan, Tom" ]
Re: humidity & engine behavior problems [Ractrk002 ]
Re: Site hit 1000 visitors [Ken Payne ]
RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's [ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)]
Removing Old Headers [Ken Payne ]
hindsight/foresight [Dan Koster ]
Bruce Hart to all [Bruce Hart ]
Re: Bruce Hart to all ["Deacon" ]
Electric fuel pump-? ["THE PAVIES'" ]
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 13:50:41 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: PS Coolers & Hood Ornaments
> From: Gary, 78 BBB
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: PS Coolers & Hood Ornaments
> Date: Friday, April 17, 1998 9:28 AM
> > How well does it work on the Lincoln??
> Very impressive in the drive way. I don't have plates on it so
> haven't tried it from speed but the boys said they work well when
> they drove it home. Very firm and nice "grab" Better feel than
> vacuum boost I think. If I can make the pedal line up with the
> mechanism I'm going to give it a go. Since the engine is also
> destined for the bronco I can just use all the accessories as they
> are on the engine.
I used to see the "hydro boost" that was installed on the big Lincolns
occasionally at the Ford dealer I used to work at. I believe they use(d)
the same type system on the big trucks. Don't ever recall seeing any major
problems with it. It might be tricky to find parts for nowadays but hey
when you're retired what else will you have to do?
I do recall that it does a very efficient job of chewing the living #$%^
out of rotors when the pads wear out. I had a customer that replaced his
pads AND rotors every 6 months on his 77 Continental. One day I was on a
test drive and followed him out of the dealership after his most recent
visit. His brake lights never went off once the whole time for the 3.5
miles I followed him.
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 13:50:28 -0700
From: Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
Subject: FS Saacramento area
Found some interesting trucks for sale,
thought I'd pass them along. Found in
freebie paper ads, and one along the road.
All in 916 unless otherwise:
1968 2wd Crewcab, not running
1977 4x4 Crewcab, loaded rebuilt eng and trans
pair for $2695
1966 Ford Ranger (that's what it says!)
390 cubic inch, A/T $1500 OBO
530-533-8408 or 533-7465 message
1985 F250 Supercab 4x4 diesel, XLT, loaded
dealer, 916-784-7155 $6350
1985 F250 Supercab 4x4, Banks powerpak diesel,
most options, same dealer as above $5650
'64 F100 Crewcab
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 18:03:43 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: humidity & engine behavior problems
Thanks all for the replies to my question. This list is a big help. This
motor doesn't have the tin on it for the exhaust manifold heat but the 39=
does. I guess I can suffer for a couple more weeks. =
I have noticed that my carburetor is so old that there is only one vacuum=
nozzle on it and it's going to the distributor. How necessary is it to ha=
the vacuum hooked up to the little butterfly valve in the air cleaner
snorkel? I'm going to keep the old carb (manual choke) when I change moto=
but the 390 came with the hot air provisions you guys describe, so I
thought I'd use them. =
While I'm thinking about it, is warming the engine supposed to be the
purpose of the exhaust manifold heat control valve doohickey I have on my=
1967 F100 352 (soon to be 390)
1974 Maverick 302
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 15:30:31 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Re Ps &PB & Exhaust
On some of the stuff equipped with catalytic converters the owners are
very limited to the modifications they can do. Here in the home of the
Smog Nazis (long live the redwoods kiss the trees!! aaaack!) You can't
make any changes to the stock setup in front of the cat. If the vehicle
has single exhaust with a single cat and a "Y" pipe in front of it then
the owner is stuck with a single exhaust to the end of the cat. After
that you can either put a "Y" pipe and dual mufflers of a single muffler
with dual outlets.
I know that on 76 460 equipped trucks the stock muffler had 2 inlets and
a single outlet and the muffler was ENORMOUS!! The systems was
basically a dual system to the muffler and single pipe out the back.
Unfortunately they didn't put them on 390 equipped trucks like mine 80(.
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 10:12:36 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: PS & PB & exhaust
> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 08:44:04 -0500
> From: "John LaGrone"
> Subject: PS & PB
> Because of the single catalytic converter on the F150, I had to go
> with a single inlet, dual outlet muffler. Not as good as true duals,
> but better than a single outlet.
Wait wait wait wait! Single inlet, dual outlet??? I think someone
turned it backward?? It's supposed to be dual inlet, single outlet
aint it? Mine was for sure. Walker has a kit for ford pickup 460
swaps that works that way and I bought all 4 pieces so I know it was
hooked up right.
78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
- - -- Gary --
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 15:35:22 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Re: Dextron/ Type F ATF
I have the same problem with my C-6. Low speed (10-15 mph) usually in a
turn and going uphill the trans chatters from 2nd to 1st. I thought it
was the rear end but it is an open diff and if I shift to 2nd the
chatter goes away. Talked to a transmission guy who seemed to know his
stuff and he thought it could be an adjustment on the vacuum modulator
that controls shift firmness. He offered to adjust it free. Just
haven't had time to get it in to him.
Something to try.
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 10:19:21 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Dextron/ Type F ATF
Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
> > From: am14 chrysler.com
> > Subject: Dextron/ Type F ATF
> > Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 09:40:25 -0400
> > use type F ATF in all of them. I don't care what the mfg calls for
> > or what make it is. I have, in recent years, started adding one
> > quart of Synthetic 30 wt motor oil(Mobile 1) along with the type F.
> I want to try the AMSOIL ATF which is compliant with all MFG's specs
> so they say but like Mercon it has slighly more anit-chatter
> additives than the type F but due to it's leaner nature is supposed
> to actually improve on type F for clutch life etc.
This comment on anti-chatter caught my attention as my C6, even though
rebuilt, has this pulsation off idle and it kind of bugs me as I've
experienced it before. I just put some new fluid in a couple of weeks
ago(Valvoline) and I think it's better but haven't seen in additives
might cure this annoyance.
If you do try the AMSOIL, would be interested in any results you find.
78 F250 4X4 Supercab
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 18:48:22 EDT
Subject: Re: humidity & engine behavior problems
ON mine I'll go to my grandmas house and dig out that old heat tube, hope to
get that rebuild Holley 4bbl on it soon mabey a new Carter AFB if my dad can
hook me up for cheap (the advantges of having a family member working for
Fedral Mogul!) and that may help, a freind of mine with a 66 Fairlane with a
351W has the same problem on cool raniy days because he has what he calls a
heat sheild to cool the airflow.
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 21:27:08 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Site hit 1000 visitors
At 07:58 PM 4/16/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I would like to thank all the users that have visited my 67-72
>truck site...I'm amazed in such a short time that I've had 1000 hits...
>If anybody has feedback plese mail me I want to do some mods to the
>site and would like some input!
Congratulations! Its a heck of a milestone. Register it
with the search engines, wait a few months and watch it grow!
I like the VIN decoders.
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 20:31:21 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's
>it's called a sleeper, and i remember taking the money in a couple of races
>with a "rattling piece of crap with an engine straight off of Hot Rod TV"
A sleeper is a '66 Fairlane 2 dr sedan with a 427 in it, with dulled out
paint and dog dish hubcaps. Nothing in the definition of "sleeper" I've ever
seen includes doors falling off or possum nests in the rear quarters. I have
bought a few clunkers but I never sold one. There's a difference between
"under construction" and "without a clue". To make a vehicle decent to
drive, I've always started with the basics first, and then dolled it up
later. I didn't say anything about paint, because that comes last. My rigs
aren't all spit and polish, but they're tight and without unaddressed rot.
And they don't leave a puddle of anything in the parking lot.
>someone is willing to go thru all that work for his car/truck as previously
>mentioned he will most likely have more pride in his ride than the guy who
>bought a "finished" piece of iron, put a crate motor in it and different
>wheels, paid someone to paint it and fix it a little more and calls it his
This depends on whether that someone can put any thing together right. Some
people can screw up an anvil with a rubber hammer. If they're good at
understanding what a vehicle needs to survive, he will. But putting a blower
on a tired engine and rotten body don't ring a happy G chord to me.
If you're referring to my truck as a finished piece of iron that someone
else built, I'll tell you this. I have a 99.5% rust free truck with a
presentable paint job,( I'm not happy with the body work though ) a nice
interior with late model bucket seats, original geartrain in pretty good
shape, and a sick engine. I've spent 10 weeks of down time just getting it
housebroken. Lets see, the broken firewall mounting nuts(had some kind of
metric bolt run up until it broke the weld, not one,but TWO) that mount the
(dead) wiper motor, plus half stripped shafts in the wiper heads, I now have
two-speed wipers and a mounting set up that will never give anyone trouble
again. Made it out of galvanized fence strap and carriage bolts from my
collection of asssorted junk. Welded the shafts on the wiper heads to make
them new again. Resealed the oil pan and valve covers, which required
hammering out every bolt-hole flush and torqueing it up the way it should
have been in the first place. Sealed every leak, replaced and shock proofed
the heater core, which had been replaced with out the padding. Dropped that
435 and put in a new clutch,and flywheel ring gear (heated, and hammered on
myself) new starter, which required dropping the header, and reshaping the
header so that it doesn't fry another one (I hope). Went through the wiring
and instrument cluster, everything works like new now. Replaced the Holley
with a Q-jet that my brother-in-law rebuilt for me.
Got that balky air-valve tuned to sing you a song. The engine is soft but
it's tuned to perfection and it doesn't leak anywhere. Pulls like a freight
train with those 4.56's. I'm going to build a correct year 390 with a few
tweaks( even though the 4X's had 352 2bbls.)to pump up the mid-range a
little, that's quiet and has no blow-by. Someday redo the body and paint.
But my priorities are in the area of keeping it from deteriorating first.
Door seals, windshield seals, anti-rattle kit, that's next.
I'm not trying to change anyone's point of view, as I said, what ever floats
your boat. But I have a '67 F100 in the back that I've had since I was 15,
worked hauling trash to buy it. Put a stout 390 and C-6( had a 240 and 3spd
) in it, 15x10 aluminum slots 15x7's on the front. Kept the suspension and
brakes up, but basically just drove the dogs***t out of it. Now it's a
rustbucket, with everything soft rotted and long gone. I didn't do it any
justice at all. Someday the son and I will pull it out and redo it, but man
I wish I had had my priorities right 20 years ago.
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 22:22:26 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Removing Old Headers
Forwarded for BJGR47D prodigy.com (MR RYAN STACK):
I have a 72 Bronco with a 68 302 in it. It has rusty (not worth
saving) headers on it.
I was plannig on put on a whole new exahust system. I was wondering
if anybody had any tips for taking the rust bolts out of the engine
block any easier.
I was also wonder in if it is true that it would be illegal to run
the tail pipes out in front of the tires? ( I live in Pennsylvannia)
I would like to hear from other early Bronco owners.
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 19:16:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Koster
- ---WILLIAM L BALLINGER wrote:
>...But I have a '67 F100 in the back that I've had since I was 15,
> worked hauling trash to buy it. Put a stout 390 and C-6( had a 240
> ) in it, 15x10 aluminum slots 15x7's on the front. Kept the
> brakes up, but basically just drove the dogs***t out of it. Now it's a
> rustbucket, with everything soft rotted and long gone. I didn't do
> justice at all. Someday the son and I will pull it out and redo it,
> I wish I had had my priorities right 20 years ago.
You sound like me. Except that i'm standing in your shoes looking
forward, while you're looking back. I'm about to put a 390 into a 63
F100 and am just praying that I'll figure it out o.k. I plan on
adding an aluminum intake, new carb, headers and tubes. Then I'll
start working on the body, etc.
Let life's wisdom speak into my ears. What would you do in my shoes
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 01:25:41 -0400
From: Bruce Hart
Subject: Bruce Hart to all
I would first like to apolgize to Deacon and Dennis for the tone of the
reply to their posts.That day at work was a bad one and the posts hit an
already raw nerve and I reacted badly.Deacon,Dennis I'm sorry.The next
thing I would like to clear up is the present condition of my truck.I
don't know how it was concluded that it was junk,unsafe or had the doors
falling off but that doesn't really matter.As Deacon had noted I pull a
horse trailer and in that trailer are my two horses which are the love
of my life not the truck.I would never endanger them by using something
like what the truck has been described as.The truck is in excellent
mechanical condition,brakes, driveline,tires and all other safety
equipment has been meticuously maintained,in Ontario this truck pulling
a trailer of the weight of mine must be safety checked every year.All
truck and trailer combinations of 10,560 lbs must have an annual safety
inspection by a gov't liscenced garage.However,after almost 29 years of
Southern Ontario salt ridden winters the cab has had to have been
repaired a number of times and the frame has some cancer near the ends
of the rails,which Ive resupported with a 9'x10"x1/4" C channel down
each rail(ita a flatbed).As you have noted a blower is an expensive
proposition,$2500.00US from Paxton plus I must fabricate the mounting
plates.There is a gentleman in the town I work in who has drag raced a
blown I-6 in a rail for about 10 years who has the skills and experience
to help with the fabrication.the reason I asked about prices of
cab/chassis was to get an idea of their cost in the southern states so I
can decide on where to focus my search,southern states or western
Canada.As you might know the Canadian dollar is much lower than the US
buck so buying in your fair land carries a hefty premium dollar wise and
western Canada has fewer choices as I am informed and is farther to ship
especially if your coming from B.C. the point being is that I was trying
to gather the info required to make an informed choice.The reason for a
cab/chassis is that I have been advised by those much more experienced
than I that starting with a rust free cab and painting it is far better
and usually less expensive than major removal and replacing of cab
sections.As mentioned the cab of my current truck has been repaired a
number of times mostly by me and although strong and safe I've lacked
the bodywork skills to do a real professional job.To justify the expense
of the blower and to serve my needs for another 15 years I want a well
restored truck to fit the looks good and turns my crank requirement.That
is why I've been researching both at the same time,the blower will come
first then the cab as it will take some time after I get it to finish it
right,unless a great deal comes along first,circumstances change so I'm
flexable.I realize the engine/truck combination will seem weird even
stupid to most thats part of the attraction but it is my money and I can
pay the freight.Sorry to take up so much space Ken but I felt I owed
some explanation and I certainly wanted to clear up any hard feelings
and the notion that I was driving junk or would spend hard earned money
running a blower in junk,you won't hear any more from me on this
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 01:11:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Bruce Hart to all
From: Bruce Hart
>I would first like to apolgize to Deacon and Dennis for the tone of the
>reply to their posts.That day at work was a bad one and the posts hit
>already raw nerve and I reacted badly.Deacon,Dennis I'm sorry.
No problem Bro! I hope you know I'm a smart $$ so you need to read
my post with that in mind. Dennis is a very cool guy and I think if you
visit his Webpage you'll share in my respect for him. I'm also sorry if
I came off like I was somebody. You can build what ever you want.
>thing I would like to clear up is the present condition of my truck.I
>don't know how it was concluded that it was junk,unsafe or had the
>falling off but that doesn't really matter.As Deacon had noted I pull a
>horse trailer and in that trailer are my two horses which are the love
>of my life not the truck.I would never endanger them by using something
>like what the truck has been described as.The truck is in excellent
>mechanical condition,brakes, driveline,tires and all other safety
>equipment has been meticuously maintained
I'm happy to read this and I'm sorry for reading more into your
needing a cab and chassis for your truck. That was my bad and I should
have asked why before saying something about it.
>some explanation and I certainly wanted to clear up any hard feelings
>and the notion that I was driving junk or would spend hard earned money
>running a blower in junk,you won't hear any more from me on this
The one thing I wish to make clear, this isn't just about your truck.
Here is your post
Jamie,I've done some research on hopping up the 300 as I'm going to do
mine in a F-350 1969.After all things considerd I'm going with a Paxton
super charger,around $2500 but your done.When I talked to the speed
shops no one was too sure on how much more I would get with the
carb/manifold/cam/headwork approach and these aren't cheap add ons,where
paxton feels there's about 50% to gain with the blower at 5 lbs boost
and no engine work.-Bruce
Your making a recommendation to another member. I disagree with your
recommendation. If you feel good enough to make the recommendation stand
behind it. If you have second thoughts about it, you should post it so
others will not jump in thinking this is the deed to do.
Take this with a grain of salt too, I don't think you'll see your
engine last all that long nor will you see the power increases your
expecting. Your engine was built to be normally aspirated and has a lot
of miles on it for what your planning. Putting a $2500 blower on an I6
isn't the best way to go to do the job you want it to do. Your going to
push it past its limits where a 460 will just be warming up. The 460
would cost 1/4 of what the blower will cost. If you love I6's then what
the hell, it's your truck!
I don't take some things very seriously and tend to joke more than I
should. When I'm joking I'm a smart $$ when I'm serious I'm just an $$!
I hope you continue to post your point of view. We are here to learn
from each other. When you see crap from me, just slap me back. I was
just pulling your chain because I disagree. I have a bad habit of
thinking I'm funny. Don't get pissed, show me up with a witty comeback
and put me in my place. Many will love you for it! :)
Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 05:05:00 -0400
From: "THE PAVIES'"
Subject: Electric fuel pump-?
Whenever I start my truck, I have to sit in it for 10 minutes working
the gas pedal to keep it from stalling until it warms up. It's a 76 F250
360 with manual choke on the original carb (2100-?). I was thinking that
an electric fuel pump might solve the problem. What do you guys think?
And if I do go with the electric pump, should I by-pass the mechanical
pump or leave it in?
Also, being hopelessly attracted to 73 - 79 era Ford trucks, I can't
help myself from constantly scanning the country side while I'm driving
around. The other day I spotted a 78 F250 4wd supercab sitting back
behind a body shop in with some other non-descript vehicles. The shop is
using it and the other cars as a place to dump wrecked autobody parts. I
crawled around underneath and found no rust under the cab, even at the....
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