fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, April 15 1998 Volume 02 : Number 216



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Short Trips, sludge etc. ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
73-79' Hood Ornaments [Marsha Herrmann ]
Engine hoists, barns and pickups ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Battery Size [John Strauss ]
Ford Pickup Red Book ON SALE [John Strauss ]
Re: Battery Size [Stu Varner ]
Aluminum Heads ["PAUL MONTY" ]
Re: Battery Size [Don Grossman ]
re: Timing Questions [Brian Koss ]
Re: Aluminum Heads, 2 into 1 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Aluminum Heads, 2 into 1 [Stu Varner ]
Re Short trips ["Hogan, Tom" ]
Re: Aluminum Heads, 2 into 1 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Aluminum Heads, 2 into 1 [Stu Varner ]
Re: Aluminum Heads, 2 into 1 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: 2 into 1 [Sleddog ]
Opinions ["John LaGrone" ]
Re: 2 into 1 [SuperMagot ]
1966 for sale [Chezpip ]
Re: New List Member with Some Questions ["kingw" ]
RE: 2 into 1 [Sleddog ]

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Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 08:39:06 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Short Trips, sludge etc.

> From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
> Subject: Short Trips
> Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 00:27:34 -0500

> I run my truck 4 miles each way everyday, and this is what I've done
> to mine. It's a '65 F250 4X4 with an FE and 4 spd with 4.56 gears.

> and the ring seal doesn't seem to be suffering. Once a week I get it
> out on the highway for 10 miles and goose it a couple of times.

Most people don't seem to realize that water is what causes sludge.
It doesn't actually mix with oil but mixes with all the contaminants
from the combustion process and some of the additives in the oil
which leach out due to the water's solvent properties etc.. When
you bring the engine up to operating temp the water evaporates
leaving the gummy residue which eventually builds up to become
sludge.

The trick is to keep the water from forming in the first place by
keeping the PCV system in good shape and running the engine till it
is completely warmed up EVERY TIME YOU START IT. Four miles is just
about enough time to get to operating temp but not long enough to
completely boil off all the moisture. When the engine cools again
moisture in the crank case condenses and you start the cycle all over
again which is where the PCV comes in. If it's working there will be
very little moisture accumulation since it's constantly swept clean.

This is one of the reasons you don't see too much sludge in newer
engines but the older ones used to be very bad about it. Older
engines had atmospheric vents but no forced flow of air so the air
tended to be stagnant and collect moisture in the crank case.

There are other factors and some oil stocks aparently are worse than
others and synthecics are best by far in every way but if you don't
keep the moisture out of the crank case, no oil will be able to fend
off the sludge. Now add blow by in older engines and you really have
a mess where, again, the synthectics excell since they have higher
burn off temps and better shear etc.. Older engines require more
frequent oil changes to preserve the lubrication and protecion built
into the oil due to much higher contamination rates from blow by
etc..

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 07:51:52 -0500
From: Marsha Herrmann
Subject: 73-79' Hood Ornaments

Does anybody remember seeing a "Ranger" Hood Ornament on the 73-79' Trucks?

It was like the others, about 4" wide, had a Red background and the
"Ranger" name in Chrome letters. I am about to go crazy because we used to
have a truck in the 70's that had one on it and I am in need of one now,
but the Ford Parts people say I am nuts because there is nothing in the
parts book that list a Ranger Ornament.

I believe they were used on select 77-79' models. Does anybody know where I
can find one of these?

Thank you!

64 F-100
69 F-100 Ranger
75 F-150 Explorer
79 F-150 Ranger Lariat (finishing touches going on now)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 08:55:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Engine hoists, barns and pickups

Well, Howdy! Dang! Ever go out to the barn to do a 5 minute job and
wind up re-inventing the entire universe to get it done??? Seems
like I spend more time trying to prepare for the leap than I do
leaping!?#$%^$# (you know, like a cat getting ready to pounce)

I went out to the barn to unload the pickup so I could actually use
it as a pickup to haul some junk to the dump etc. and so it would be
ready for the big day when the hoist gets here. I decided to use my
engine hoist (new and essentially untried) to lift the axles and
heavy stuff I had stored in the bed of the PU and put them on the
slab I have poured for the bathroom in the barn so I don't have to
move them again till I get the floor done (soon I hope). Well on the
way to the barn with the hoist the limestone was causing me all sorts
of grief with those tiny little iron casters and one of them gave up
the ghost and all the bearings fell out. Pulled it all back into the
garage and stood there scratching my bald (almost) head wondering
what I was going to do now?????

I've always wanted a hoist on wheels with a hitch to haul around to
my friends and stuff so I went to work with an old trailer axle out
back and my new chop saw (works real nice). About 3 hours later I
have the hoist back on it's feet with new tires and MOBILITY! All it
needs now is the hitch and another life long dream is realized :-)

Anyway the truck is now empty and awaiting the great day of
deliverance (of the hoist :-))

P.S. I wonder if the day will ever come when I can go out to the
garage and do something so simple as turn on my compressor without
having to rewire the garage to do a 5 min job...........

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 08:02:06 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: Battery Size

>What battery type do the 61-64 F Series trucks use? Will a group 24 fit
>in the floor box properly?
>
Floor box? I think you are talking about 51-54 there because 61-64 the
battery is under the hood, mounted on the right side firewall. It takes a
Group 27 which many battery manufacturers don't even make any more. You
can probably find it at an auto parts store but you won't see it at
Wal-Mart. You can put a 24 in there but it won't fit the original hold
down bracket.

As for the "floor box" in earlier models, I think a 24 will fit in there
but not a 27.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 08:05:11 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: Ford Pickup Red Book ON SALE

>> Just got my latest Classic Motorbooks catalog and the Ford Pickup Red Book
>> is on sale for only 2.74! I happily paid 9.95 for mine so this is a great
>> opportunity to get a really useful book for a very low price. Don't know
>> if this means they are discontinuing it or what. The catalog number is
>> 118924AP. It says the sale ends May 15. The number is 800-826-6600.
>
> What is in this book?
>
The Red Book is a handbook that lists all the VIN and other code info for
Ford pickups, Rancheros, and Broncos '46-'77. I use mine probably as much
as all my other Ford books combined. It's hand sized so it is easy to take
along with you when looking at used trucks for sale.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 08:43:52 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Battery Size

At 08:02 AM 4/15/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>What battery type do the 61-64 F Series trucks use? Will a group 24 fit
>>in the floor box properly?
>>
>Floor box? I think you are talking about 51-54 there because 61-64 the
>battery is under the hood, mounted on the right side firewall. It takes a
>Group 27 which many battery manufacturers don't even make any more. You
>can probably find it at an auto parts store but you won't see it at
>Wal-Mart. You can put a 24 in there but it won't fit the original hold
>down bracket.
>
>As for the "floor box" in earlier models, I think a 24 will fit in there
>but not a 27.
>
>

While we are on the subject of batteries, Will a 24 fit in an F-100 of 71
vintage??
I will be buying an Autolite sta-full for show purposes if I ever get
finished restoring this thing, I thought 71 models came with group
24's.......was it also a group 27 like the 61-64's??????>

I was sure my owners manual said 24..........

Stu
Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 06:57:59 -0700
From: "PAUL MONTY"
Subject: Aluminum Heads

Well, I've made some progress installing the Edelbrock heads (in between
the constant rain here in CA--the truck won't fit in the garage:( Most
everything is back under the hood and all I need time for is connecting the
carb, cooling hoses, a temporary pipe connection to the 406 manifolds as I
drive uncorked over to the muffler man.

BTW, he recommends going back to a single exhaust as the latest tech
improvement--dumping both sides into a h-u-g-e 3" inlet muffler that he
says is used for b-i-g truck applications. Anyone have any experience with
this setup? I had dual exhausts put on about two years ago (Walker DynoMax
mufflers), but the wife has always complained about the noise when the
engine is under load, and I think Flowmasters make at least as much
racket. Muffler man says the large single lasts forever because it
collects more heat, sounds deeper (not necessarily noisier) than what I now
have, and actually adds hp due to the scavenging effect. Since I was
weaned on '60s musclecars, I'm a skeptic--Detroit always used duals. Then
again, maybe the technology was ancient?

Will keep you informed on how I like the heads. I have some feedback, both
good and back about them . Be back when I fire the beast up and see how it
runs...

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 07:28:07 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Battery Size

John Strauss wrote:

> >What battery type do the 61-64 F Series trucks use? Will a group 24 fit
> >in the floor box properly?
> >
> Floor box? I think you are talking about 51-54 there because 61-64 the
> battery is under the hood, mounted on the right side firewall. It takes a
> Group 27 which many battery manufacturers don't even make any more. You
> can probably find it at an auto parts store but you won't see it at
> Wal-Mart. You can put a 24 in there but it won't fit the original hold
> down bracket.
>
> As for the "floor box" in earlier models, I think a 24 will fit in there
> but not a 27.
>
> _
> _| ~~. John Strauss
> \, _} jstrauss inetport.com
> \( Texas Fight!

No, I think Jon is right, under the passenger side floor is correct. Yes a
group 24 will fit in the space. On the larger trucks and 4x's up until 66
the battery is under the floor. Everyone who looks under my hood does the
"where's the battery" look, or looks at me strange when I give someone a jump
and put my passenger door by the engine compartment. I plan on mounting 2
batteries under the hood when I install my set of 65 inner fenders and adding
a quick disconnect to the front bumper for the jumper cables.

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 07:54:21 -0700
From: Brian Koss
Subject: re: Timing Questions

Ballinger wrote:

>My FE is like that for some reason. I'm running about 20-22 degrees of
>timing with added ported and centrifugal advance. But I also have a lot of
>blow-by, I suspect a bad ring or piston at #8 due to crossfire at some time
>or another. The other 7 are strong but #8 is weak when cold but improves
>alot when warm, blow-by stays about the same. It's sad that it is only
>supposed to have 10,000 miles on it, and pulls like a freight train, but
>shows these problems. I have an aftermarket cam, intake and headers and with
>this timing I make 15-16 hg of vacuam at idle and no sign of ping. At 6-12
>degrees it just backfires when you accelerate. It was this way when I bought
>it, I did a real double take when I put the timing light on it. I'd
>appreciate any comments or experiences in this area too.

I have the same timing conditons with my truck with an unknown after market
cam. I can't get the thing to ping. I always like to find the ping then
back off from it. I have always assumed that the distributor, stock 351W,
is not correct for the cam and have been investigating custom curving. I
have been playing around with the mechanical advance and seem to have
gotten better perfromance by having it come in earlier as suggested in
previous posts on this list. I am getting ready to take the timing cover
off to see if the cam is degreed in right and to determine what I have.
Although like your truck it pulls like no tomorrow. It will easily start in
3rd gear without and pinging or bucking. I have always assumed that I am
not getting the most out of the motor unless it is just retarded to prevent
pinging. Is this correct?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 11:07:59 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Aluminum Heads, 2 into 1

> From: "PAUL MONTY"
> Subject: Aluminum Heads
> Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 06:57:59 -0700

> BTW, he recommends going back to a single exhaust as the latest tech
> improvement--dumping both sides into a h-u-g-e 3" inlet muffler that
> he says is used for b-i-g truck applications. Anyone have any
> experience with this setup? I had dual exhausts put on about two

I had the Walker 2 into 1 setup originally on the PU with 460 and it
seemed to have plenty of power but the top end dropped off rather
suddenly around 90 mph. I put headers on and dual exhaust with the
same size pipe as the other and now the top end falls off around 80??
(in second gear of course)

When I first set this system up I could break the tires loose at 45
by stepping on it and forcing a 3-2 shift (with 2.75 gears). It
doesn't seem to have quite as much punch in that range with the
headers for some reason, mainly due to running out of air about the
time it needs it the most I think. I attribute this to the carb
mostly since I can't tune it and the fact that I haven't added a
balance tube between the two sides but still not sure and haven't had
time to fool with it much.

My impression is that it doesn't hurt much if at all for truck
applicaitons and may even be better than dual but may not be the
choice if you want high rpms, not sure tho :-) (I know this looks
like a contradiction but I'm convinced my problem is tuning, not the
headers or exhaust)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 10:15:14 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Aluminum Heads, 2 into 1

seemed to have plenty of power but the top end dropped off rather
>suddenly around 90 mph. I put headers on and dual exhaust with the
>same size pipe as the other and now the top end falls off around 80??
>(in second gear of course)
>
>When I first set this system up I could break the tires loose at 45
>by stepping on it and forcing a 3-2 shift (with 2.75 gears).

Gary, Let me preface this by saying, I respect you mechanical knowledge and
skills greatly. I hold you and sleddog and many many others in very high
esteem.
Seriously!!

Just tell me where you live so I can stay off the roads.
grin upon his face!> :o)
Stu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 08:22:15 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Re Short trips

Rob,
Not to sound flip but the simplest solution may be to take the long way
to work. Loop out to the nearest freeway, go to the next exit turn
around and come back. That way the truck will fully warm up and you can
have the pleasure of driving a great vehicle for a longer period of time
each day!! ;0)

Tom H.



>Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 20:06:09 GMT
>From: wayside cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)
>Subject: Short Trips

>Hi group,
>Most of my driving is very low mileage; the two miles to work is not =
>enough
>to warm up the engines in any of my vehicles.=20

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 11:48:05 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Aluminum Heads, 2 into 1

> Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 10:15:14 -0600 (CST)
> From: Stu Varner
> Subject: Re: Aluminum Heads, 2 into 1

> Just tell me where you live so I can stay off the roads.
> with a grin upon his face!> :o) Stu

I know few of you will believe me but I insist on driving 60 mph on
the highway no matter what so I spend a lot of time passing slower
traffic and sometimes this includes multiple cars. With the setup I
described and no special performance stuff on the 460 and with the
2.75 gears and wide ratio gear set for the C-6 it will accellerate to
90 mph from about 50 - 55 in about two, continuously moving car
lengths. IOW, by the time I have reached the tail end of the third
car with my foot firmly planted on the floor I'm "easily" doing 90
and generally have to back off for safety sake.

I wound up in a ditch due to this one day when car #3 pulled out 5'
in front of me doing 55. I'm much more carefull now when passing
multiple cars and generally try to hold it down to 80 or so till I
pass the rear bumper of the lead car. Scrubbing off 40 mph in 5 feet
is a real challenge! 30 is a little easier :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 11:02:27 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Aluminum Heads, 2 into 1

>> Just tell me where you live so I can stay off the roads.
>> with a grin upon his face!> :o) Stu
>
>I know few of you will believe me but I insist on driving 60 mph on
>the highway no matter what so I spend a lot of time passing slower
>traffic and sometimes this includes multiple cars. With the setup I
>described and no special performance stuff on the 460 and with the
>2.75 gears and wide ratio gear set for the C-6 it will accellerate to
>90 mph from about 50 - 55 in about two, continuously moving car
>lengths. IOW, by the time I have reached the tail end of the third
>car with my foot firmly planted on the floor I'm "easily" doing 90
>and generally have to back off for safety sake.

That's what I call a white knuckle ride with one eye open. ;^O
Guess I have never owned anyhting with such brute force and power.
My 95 Special service crown vic has some serious (Not 460 cid serious) get
up and go from about 40-75 mph. It is a dog on the bottom end. I havecome
close to killing a few people when I pass them foot firmly planted, then
they do something really stoopid and pull out in front of me for a lane
change....Geez, I hate that!!
The pucker factor gets very high when this happens!!!

Stu
Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 12:19:23 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Aluminum Heads, 2 into 1

> Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 11:02:27 -0600 (CST)
> From: Stu Varner
> Subject: Re: Aluminum Heads, 2 into 1

> That's what I call a white knuckle ride with one eye open. ;^O
> Guess I have never owned anyhting with such brute force and power.

If I'd had a right rear shock (completely gone, not on the truck) I
probably could have saved it but the body roll screwed up my
judgement so badly I kept over correcting............

Anyone wonder why I preach anti-sway bars for trucks?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 14:24:28 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 2 into 1

nothing wrong with a single exhaust, as long as it is big enough and the
muffler itself is not restrictive.

a single 3" is about the same as 2 1/4 duals. but, the duals with a
crossover may give more low end torque and be quieter.

a single pipe is lighter, but one large truck muffler may weigh more than
two aftermarket borla or flowmaster pieces.

i am a beleiver in dual exhaust and large free flowing mufflers. the
crossover pipe is not as important to me, but many people feel it is an
improvement. depends on the engine combo if you ask me.

if you are looking at over 300 hp i think 3.5" tube would be better for a
single. especially if it will not be mandrel bent. some of the new
deisels are running very large pipe.

all in all, a single can basically work as good as a dual. i think you
will be happy either way, though my personal feeling always leans toward
duals.

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 14:17:23 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: Opinions

Greetings from the heart of Texas. This is my first post. Sorry it is so
long, but I have a big nose and I stick it where I please.
listserve pleases me greatly.

In regards to power steering coolers, there are several types. I have seen
the small u-shaped ones mentioned, as well as a larger version that was
mounted underneath the radiator. They are most common on large luxury cars
of the late sixties to mid seventies, particularly Lincolns and (sorry
guys) Cadillacs. I've owned about 17 Cadillacs of varying years and one
Lincoln. I finally found what I was expecting in a luxury car when I bought
the 88 Towncar. It took my wife three years of nagging, but I'm converted.
The HO 5.0 liter is a barn burner and it looks great when you raise the
hood. I put on true duals and speed rated Good Year Regattas. Unfortunately
the speedometer only goes to 85; the car will go much, much faster. I
average about 23 mpg on the interstate at 65 mph, not quite 23 at 70.

My real vehicle is my 79 F150 2WD long bed regular cab. My uncle bought it
new in Texas City. It has 70k original miles. I have totally redone the
paint and interior, converting from ugly flaky fading silver to white with
red and black trim on the outside and red guts inside. It has a 351M bolted
to a C6, both original, neither been apart, only pumps and peripherals.
When I got the truck, it got about 8 mpg period. I reworked the carb,
hooked up all the loose vacuum hoses, fixed the automatic choke, and (big
one here) changed the oil and filter in the transmission. Somewhere along
the line, someone put Ford ATF in the C6 instead of Dexron. The viscosity
is different and they aren't interchnageable. Ford ATF is thinner and ruins
the cooling, efficiency, internal pressure and everything else. It also
won't back up a hill with a ton of oak firewood on board. Now I get about
10 mpg commuting to and from work (two miles round trip, worth every foot
spent in my truck) and an astonishing 16 on the interstate. I buy exhaust
systems regularly. I may not get great gas mileage, but I don't have a $400
payment either.

I have an oil opinion. The other oil opinions have not been incorrect, I
just have different operating conditions. I prefer Havoline straight 30
weight for all season operation. 40 weight would be better for the summer,
but it has to be special ordered where I live. Before you send me to the
looney bin, read on. In my part of Texas, it rarely gets below freezing for
any extended period and during the summer road temps of 140 degrees are not
uncommon. The single viscosity oil does not drain off of internal
components as easily as multi vis does so you have less chance of a dry
start. The multi vis will break down at the high heat, especially the
pariffin based oils. Havoline does not have a heavy parrifin base like
other oils do. That is why you get new leaks when you switch to synthetics,
no paraffin (wax, as in candle wax). Havoline also leaks easier and will
often cause an engine to use oil until the detergents have cleaned the
rings. I have put several engines together using STP to coat parts and then
using nothing but Havoline HD30. Several have well over 140,000 miles after
the rebuild and don't use oil yet (I don't own them anymore, but know the
people who do.) I don't make my living as a mechanic but a different uncle
did for over 50 years. He and my dad taught me a lot. I'm a computer geek
(there goes my credibility), but I've been working on cars since I was 10
( #* that's 35 years). Some of my less enlightened rice burner buddies
swear by Castrol. I also beleive in Slick 50. My brother's Grand Marquis
has 160,000 miles and is still going strong.

I currently have 2 problems (with the F150). The proportioning valve on the
brakes is stuck to one side. This causes the fluid for the rear brakes to
constantly be moved to the front brakes. The front reservoir (for the rear
brakes) is always empty and the rear reservoir is always overflowing. I got
another valve at my friendly junk yard, I just need to install it. I
couldn't find a new one. I was told they never fail so they don't make
them. The discussion on proper brake bleeding sequence was just in time. My
temporary fix for the master cylinder was to drill a hole between the two
reservoirs, then put the lid on with a stainless steel hose clamp. The
truck has to be doing a nose dive to check th fluid.

My other problem involves the power steering pump. It leaks, so I replaced
both lines. It still leaks between the case and the high pressure
connection. I think the Towncar is starting the same thing. Is there a cure
for this besides a new pump? The o-ring is not the problem.

One more thing. I looked at a 91 Bronco on a car lot that had a 351M
multiport EFI in front of an AOD tranny. Wouldn't that be great in a 79
F150!!!?

My dad and uncle can't tutor me anymore, but you guys and gals on the list
sure can. Thanks a heap!!!

jmlagron tenet.edu
1979 F150 351M C6
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI AOD
1979 MC (my son is rebellious)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 15:30:34 EDT
From: SuperMagot
Subject: Re: 2 into 1

In a message dated 98-04-15 14:23:49 EDT, you write:


muffler itself is not restrictive.

a single 3" is about the same as 2 1/4 duals. but, the duals with a
crossover may give more low end torque and be quieter.
>>

There are a few factors involved, the available diameter of the pipe (flow
rate is primarily based upon the cross section of the pipe) ie 2*PI*R^2 i
think is the right formula. So:
1 3.5" pipe = 2*3.14*(1.725^2) = 6.28*3.06 = 19.23 cubic inches of area
2 * 2.25" pipes = 2*2*3.14*(1.125^2) = 12.56 * 1.5625 = 19.65 cubic inches

As you can see, even with a 3.5" pipe, 2 smaller pipes can flow more air with
less restriction, although the difference is not major.

Plus you have in the dual pipe setup whether or not you have a transfer tube
(which I have heard helps alot). In this case by sharing part of two pipes,
you in effect almost double the available area for the exhaust flow per
cylinder, and create more scavenging.

Also certain header designs are designed to scavenge, based upon on an exhaust
pulse creating a vacuum effect for the next exhaust pulse to "follow".

And lastly, muffler design. Some mufflers flow freely, some dont.

In my personal experience, a decent sized dual exhaust with transfer pipe,
headers and decent mufflers will provide a great deal of power increase. I
have never done a "huge single pipe" solution, but based upon the math, if its
big enough, it will also work just fine.

- - Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 16:52:48 EDT
From: Chezpip
Subject: 1966 for sale

'66 F100 shortbed. c6 needs work. 360 running, but not in the vehicle. body
in perfect shape no rust. frame perfect too, it was a city utility truck for
many years. process of restoration ended before i got too far into it. it's
got all four tires and many new parts including new rubber weather stripping
throughout. needs someone interested in the shortbed. l will sell it for as
little as 600, but would be willing to consider another offer. i'm in the
l.a. area near pasadena. it's currently registered and all fees have been
paid. this sucker was running strong just less than a year ago. call me if
you are interested. 626-284-4070

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 17:17:01 -0500
From: "kingw"
Subject: Re: New List Member with Some Questions

Chip,
Are you sure your steering box is the problem?
When the king-pins in my '68 F100 started to go,
they would bind up. I could turn the steering wheel
while going down the highway, let go, and it would
not straighten out. Ended up that the king-pins
were shot. Have you greased them recently?
Also, make sure you have enough pressure in your
front tires. If one of my front tires drops in pressure,
turning the steering wheel becomes a real work out.
Just two thoughts...

Bill
(I need a catchy sig.here...)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 17:20:11 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 2 into 1

that difference in cross sectional area is negligable. (i did say _about_ )
transfer tubes only increase collector volume, not increase max flow. a
single pipe of equal area also has less friction resistance to flow, than
two smaller pipes. of course, unless you are running on the ragged edge of
engine design, this means nothing.
but, the general consenus is that a large single pipe can work just as well
as two smaller ones. i however tend to believe that two smaller free
flowing mufflers will be quieter (and sound better) than one bigger muffler
of similiar flow potential.

when sizing mufflers, pipe size is not important. pick a muffler on flow
capacity. you should have 2.2xHP. take your estimate (be realistic) of
the HP you have and multiply by 2.2. this is how much one muffler or 2
combined need to flow. ask the mufler company for an airflow. this number
assumes that the muffler is rated at the same pressure as a 4bbl, 1.5 in of
murcury.

more muffler than this gets louder, and less decrease HP.

if you really want to get trick, building with a terminater (not arnold)
box is the best way to go. using this method the exhaust "looks" like an
open exhaust to the engine.

i haven't tried this method yet, but hope to this year. need to convince
my welder to do me a set of headers and terminater boxes with adjustable
collecter length and a 4" dia collector. (how many cases of beer you
want?)

as for scavenging, all exhaust systems scavenge. even stock cast iron
mans. some are just better designed than others. this scaenging is why
cams have an overlap period. improving the exhaust will generally make
more HP than improving the intake , unless the cam and exhaust are
"unmatched" after the changes.

sleddog

ps.- the 2.2 number comes from testing done by David Vizard. i did not
just pick a nice number.

- ----------
From: SuperMagot[SMTP:SuperMagot aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 1998 3:30 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: 2 into 1

In a message dated 98-04-15 14:23:49 EDT, you write:


muffler itself is not restrictive.

a single 3" is about the same as 2 1/4 duals. but, the duals with a
crossover may give more low end torque and be quieter.
>>

There are a few factors involved, the available diameter of the pipe (flow
rate is primarily based upon the cross section of the pipe) ie 2*PI*R^2 i
think is the right formula. So:
1 3.5" pipe = 2*3.14*(1.725^2) = 6.28*3.06 = 19.23 cubic inches of area
2 * 2.25" pipes = 2*2*3.14*(1.125^2) = 12.56 * 1.5625 = 19.65 cubic
inches

As you can see, even with a 3.5" pipe, 2 smaller pipes can flow more air
with
less restriction, although the difference is not major.

Plus you have in the dual pipe setup whether or not you have a transfer....


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