tr:300 i-6

fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, April 14 1998 Volume 02 : Number 214

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

tr:300 i-6 [Bruce Hart ]
Transmission [John Strauss ]
Timing questions [CLARE WATERMAN ]
pertronix?? [CLARE WATERMAN ]
Re: PTO mounting ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Transmission [wayside

cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)]
Re: Short Trips [wayside

cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)]
frame and brake hoses [Stu Varner ]
Re: tr:300 i-6 ["Deacon" ]
Re: manual to auto conversion ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: manual to auto conversion [Dennis Pearson ]
Re: Timing questions ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
AMSOIL ["Deacon" ]
Re: tr:300 i-6 [Dennis Pearson ]
RE: AMSOIL vs mobil 1 [Sleddog ]
Re: 1965 F-100 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: manual to auto conversion ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
PTO [am14

chrysler.com]
12 V. [am14

chrysler.com]
Re: frame and brake hoses [marko

helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Timing questions [marko

helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Reliability of the 360 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: frame and brake hoses [Stu Varner ]
Re: tr:300 i-6 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
power steerin cooler [james oxley ]
Reading Material ["Hogan, Tom" ]
Re: Timing questions [Mike Schwall ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 08:55:56 -0400
From: Bruce Hart
Subject: tr:300 i-6

Jamie,I've done some research on hopping up the 300 as I'm going to do
mine in a F-350 1969.After all things considerd I'm going with a Paxton
super charger,around $2500 but your done.When I talked to the speed
shops no one was too sure on how much more I would get with the
carb/manifold/cam/headwork approach and these aren't cheap add ons,where
paxton feels there's about 50% to gain with the blower at 5 lbs boost
and no engine work.-Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:59:58 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: Transmission

>Okay, I looked on the tag on my door and under Transmission there is an
>"A", which tells me absolutely nothing. I have a Chilton Manual which
>doesn't tell me anything either. So, what transmission do I have? I am
>desperate as I am supposed to go on a trip this weekend and need to get
>a shift kit put in before then. Thanks for any help.
>
"A" code transmission for '63 is just listed as "Light Duty 3-speed manual"
in my book. I don't know the manufacturer but for your purposes that is
really not important. If I had to guess in that year it is probably a
Borg-Warner. C-4 and C-6 are automatics and were not in production in '63
anyway. If you are in a hurry, you can probably just buy a 3-speed floor
shifter from your local parts house. It will probably hit the seat in 1st
and 3rd but will at least get you where you are needing to go this weekend.

_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss

inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 09:04:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: CLARE WATERMAN
Subject: Timing questions

Hi guys-

i recently installed a 4v intake and carb on my 71 f250 360. In the
instructions for installation, there was a note saying "some applications
may require changing the timing by +/- 2 degrees" (very informative!)

It is running a little rough at the stock timing recommendation- but seems
to run the smoothest at a timing set that is way off, i.e. not even in the
range of the marks.

under what condotions do you advance or retard the timing? is there a
general rule about this? any advice would help.

Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
Department of Biology
University of North Carolina
Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280

T: (919)-962-2354
F: (919)-962-1625

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 09:06:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: CLARE WATERMAN
Subject: pertronix??

I'm thinking about replacing my points with a pertronix ingition module.

any thoughts or experience with this out there?

TIA,

Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
Department of Biology
University of North Carolina
Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280

T: (919)-962-2354
F: (919)-962-1625

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 09:10:48 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: PTO mounting

> From: ballingr

ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
> Subject: PTO mounting
> Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 11:23:33 -0500

> snatch block to double it if needed. The t-case PTO would make a
> great power unit for a log splitter, portable sawmill, or chipper
> for remote locations. Fuel milage would dictate how you use these,
> if you will be there for a week cutting, a Briggs and Stratton
> powered unit would obviously be better.

I've used PTO and front mount hydraulic pumps on a stake truck for
log splitting and the BS, Wisconsin, Kholer etc. is a much, much,
much better choice. For a winch OTOH I can't think of a better
choice than PTO hydraulic. If you drive 60 mph and get 10 mpg thats
about 6 gal/hr with the truck engine.............Gobs of power but if
it's not necesary......... Let me put it this way, you can't make
any money splitting wood with a truck motor, trust me :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 12:13:09 GMT
From: wayside

cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)
Subject: Re: Transmission

According to the "Ford Pickup Red Book", the "A" code means you have an =
LD
3-speed; I would assume that "LD" means Light Duty, as the book lists =
other
tranny codes as "MD" and "HD".

Rob

On Mon, 13 Apr 1998 19:54:02 -0700, you wrote:

>Okay, I looked on the tag on my door and under Transmission there is an
>"A", which tells me absolutely nothing. I have a Chilton Manual which
>doesn't tell me anything either. So, what transmission do I have? I am
>desperate as I am supposed to go on a trip this weekend and need to get
>a shift kit put in before then. Thanks for any help.
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79

listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 12:13:17 GMT
From: wayside

cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)
Subject: Re: Short Trips

On Mon, 13 Apr 1998 19:05:33 -0700, you wrote:

>
> A 2 mile commute to work? I'd buy a bicycle... (-:
>
>
> Steve =20
=20
Actually, I have one, but working nights I don't really feel safe on it.
.
Besides,if I rode my bike, I'd *never* get to drive my nifty old Ford
Trucks.

Rob
85(?) Trek mountain bike

'71 F100, 360 4Spd
'78 F250, 4X4 400 C6=20

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 08:42:34 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: frame and brake hoses

Well, the cab is off the frame of my 71 4x4 and the frame has been stripped
of every line awaiting a trip to the body man's shop. He will sand blast
the frame, paint it the correct chasis black, then return it to my shop for
new bushings, brake lines, front and rear springs and new brake hoses.
After which, the cab and bed will be reinstalled and body parts loaded up
for a journey back to the body shop where he will work his magic
massaging the body and each part to perfection, readying them for paint.
We are close to being on the downhill slide!!

My BIG Query is, where can I find brake hoses, front and rear? Some of the
hoses have the lines attached. The company who is making new brake lines
from my old pattern, (because they don't have lines for 71 4x4 in their
inventory) INLINE TUBE, doesn't do brake hoses and they had no advice on a
company who makes them. They are rotting badly and must be replaced. BTW-
Inline tube is making them out of stainless for me at a 50% reduced cost
because they need the pattern. I thought that was awfully cool of them.
:)

Help!

BTW_ That cab is one heavy sucker for 2 guys to lift and move 10 feet!

Stu
Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 06:46:21 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: tr:300 i-6

From: Bruce Hart
>Jamie,I've done some research on hopping up the 300 as I'm going to do
>mine in a F-350 1969.After all things considerd I'm going with a Paxton
>super charger,around $2500 but your done.When I talked to the speed
>shops no one was too sure on how much more I would get with the
>carb/manifold/cam/headwork approach and these aren't cheap add
ons,where
>paxton feels there's about 50% to gain with the blower at 5 lbs boost
>and no engine work.-Bruce

You need a cab and chassis for your truck and now your putting a
$2500 blower on a stock 70,000 mile 300 inline 6 to pull a horse
trailer? You have got to be joking! I'm sorry but I'm starting to
believe your BSing. Don't let you dreams get away from you guy. I'm not
flaming you, just calling them as I see them!

Deacon
deconblu

uts.cc.utexas.edu
> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 16:04:59 -0500
> Subject: manual to auto conversion

> 1. Where can I get a donor C6? Only from a truck or is a C6 from a
> car the same? What years will fit? Is it better to pull the
> transmission myself or go to a junk yard where they pull it for you?

It must be a FE C-6 but any 2wd application will be the same in those
years since I don't believe they had the wide ratio back then. If
it's 4wd you need one from a married 4wd unless you have the divorced
transfer case. I don't know how those work exactly.

> 2. I would like to get a C6 with overdrive -- any comments? I will
> be towing a 3500 lb boat every once in a while, but mostly its a
> strictly on road commuting vehicle.

No overdrive C-6 but wide ratio gear sets help with larger engines.
The 360 may be large enough to benifit from the wide ratio which
allows you to run taller rear gears. My 78 has 2.75 gears with 460
and the low gear torque is awsome.

> 5. Should I get the transmission rebuilt before installing it? I

It depends on how much time you have to do it and how much experience
you have. Personally I'd stick it in and see how it works. C-6's
last a long time.

> have been told this will be expensive and I'd be better of just
> throwing it in and driving it until it dies and then getting
> another. Is it possible to rebuild one myself? I have heard this

If you have a GOOD reference with pictures and some experience with
mechanical stuff you should be able to do it but it requires a very
clean work area and the entire assy needs to be tanked and carefully
blown out. One small grit can undo your whole rebuild, I had to put
one back together 3 times to get it right and then only after
replacing the governor which collected a piece of grit. DON'T take
the valve body apart without a schematic which shows the exact
location of all the check balls. There's no way to guess where they
go, trust me.

> 6. I know that I'll need another shifter. Are there any floor
> shifters that I could use from a donor vehicle or will I need to get
> an aftermarket shifter?

A column shifter will give you more floor space but cable type after
market ones are available for $100 on up.

As far as coolers go, you need an auto radiator to do it right. I
would not trust an after market cooler, even mounted beside the
radiator with it's own electric fan to do the job. If you do some
towing etc. then this "extra" cooler may be a good idea but get the
radiator set up right first. Don't worry about running too cold, the
torque converter and front pump warms the fluid up very quickly, long
before the radiator is up to temp.

On this same note I ordered the catalog for AMSOIL oils and am very
impressed with their specs. I'm going to order enough fluid to fill
my tranny and do an oil change on my TBird as a test vehicle since
it's the youngest (freshest) system I have. It's expensive but it
the life span is even close to what they claim it will actually save
money and if the parts wear better then even more savings are there.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:45:42 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: manual to auto conversion

Thanks for your message at 10:17 AM 4/14/98 +0000, Gary, 78 BBB. Your
message was:
> >
>No overdrive C-6 but wide ratio gear sets help with larger engines.
>The 360 may be large enough to benifit from the wide ratio which
>allows you to run taller rear gears. My 78 has 2.75 gears with 460
>and the low gear torque is awsome.

Did the wide ratio C-6 come in any cars? I've been lurking lately and have
noticed several references to this tranny. I like the sound of it. I am
jerking a 429-C-6 from a '70 Marquis. Could this be a wide ratio?

"Dreaming, I'm always dreaming..."

Looking for Car truck lyric links(especially Ford)
dpearson

ctc.edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 11:06:17 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Timing questions

> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 09:04:40 -0400 (EDT)
> From: CLARE WATERMAN
> Subject: Timing questions

> i recently installed a 4v intake and carb on my 71 f250 360. In the
> instructions for installation, there was a note saying "some
> applications may require changing the timing by +/- 2 degrees"
> (very informative!)

Changing the carb can change the mixture which will change the timing
requirments. If the carb is calibrated for your application it
should not change the timing requirements very much.

> It is running a little rough at the stock timing recommendation- but
> seems to run the smoothest at a timing set that is way off, i.e. not
> even in the range of the marks.

Sounds like a mis timed cam to me or improperly adjusted rockers
after installing the intake? Did you do anything with the cam while
you had it apart? It could also be a bad (very bad) vacuum leak due
to a mistake in the installation or a hose left off etc.. It could
also be a problem with the carb itself, float level, acc pump etc..

> under what condotions do you advance or retard the timing? is there
> a general rule about this? any advice would help.

If the vibration damper has not been damaged and the cam is properly
timed you should be running around 8 - 12 degrees BTDC with the vac
disconnected. In those years there were some rather strange timing
settings from 4 degrees ATDC all the way to as high as 17 BTDC that
I've seen in various applications but the numbers I mentioned above
should get it running. From there you advance it a couple of degrees
at a time till it spark knocks under load (time consuming process)
and then back off a couple of degrees.

While you're at it check the vac mechanism and your advance weights
to make sure they are free and in good shape and check the vac for
proper operation. BEWARE OF FAN if you do this by pulling the hose
while it's running. I have scars...........

Do not try to time it by ear with the vac disconnected and even with
it hooked up it doesn't tell you much. It will idle within a range
of 40 degrees if you idle it up a bit so this method DOES NOT WORK!
You have to empirically test each setting you try by taking it out on
the road under varying conditions including WOT from a rolling start
in a higher gear etc. but make sure the problem isn't somewere else
first.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 08:20:19 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: AMSOIL

From: Gary, 78 BBB
>On this same note I ordered the catalog for AMSOIL oils and am very
>impressed with their specs. I'm going to order enough fluid to fill
>my tranny and do an oil change on my TBird as a test vehicle since
>it's the youngest (freshest) system I have. It's expensive but it
>the life span is even close to what they claim it will actually save
>money and if the parts wear better then even more savings are there.

Thanks Gary! I found their Web site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amzoil.com/ where I
downloaded their catalog. I can't view it until I finish downloading the
4 MB Adobe Acrobat Reader version 3.0. :[ Well I'm half way there so it
shouldn't be too much longer, I hope! Your right about their specs being
impressive. Mobil 1 doesn't even match it.

Deacon
deconblu

gte.net
=============================================
I intend to live forever. So far, so good.
=============================================
Deacon 's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:39:22 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: tr:300 i-6

Thanks for your message at 06:46 AM 4/14/98 -0700, Deacon. Your message was:
> > You need a cab and chassis for your truck and now your putting a
>$2500 blower on a stock 70,000 mile 300 inline 6 to pull a horse
>trailer? You have got to be joking! I'm sorry but I'm starting to
>believe your BSing. Don't let you dreams get away from you guy. I'm not
>flaming you, just calling them as I see them!

Two songs--"What a day for a daydream..."

"Fly Trans-Love Airlines, get you there on time..."

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 12:40:03 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: AMSOIL vs mobil 1

Gary, deacon,

i have used both mobil 1 and amsoil motor oil in my vehicles, with no
noticable difference in any way between the two. i have also used the
amsoil synth ATF with very good results. i recommend it highly. gear oil
i have used from both sources also with no noticable difference between the
two, but deffinatley cooler running diffs than with regular gear oil.

the mobil 1 synth grease i use is absolutley great stuff (never used
another synth brand to compare though). i'll never use regular grease
again!

i think that you would be happy with either brand, i purchase between the
two based on price. i get at dealer price for amsoil, and wait for sales
for mobil 1. sometimes one is cheaper than the other. i buy the mobil in
quarts, but the amsoil i always get in larger quantity.

if you decide to use synth oils, a word of caution - they will find places
to leak that regular oil didn't! they don't create leaks, but just seem to
find places to leak from that other oil couldn't get through. and if you
already have any leaks, they will leak faster with synthetics.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Deacon[SMTP:deconblu

gte.net]
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 1998 11:20 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79

ListService.net
Subject: AMSOIL

From: Gary, 78 BBB
>On this same note I ordered the catalog for AMSOIL oils and am very
>impressed with their specs. I'm going to order enough fluid to fill
>my tranny and do an oil change on my TBird as a test vehicle since
>it's the youngest (freshest) system I have. It's expensive but it
>the life span is even close to what they claim it will actually save
>money and if the parts wear better then even more savings are there.

Thanks Gary! I found their Web site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amzoil.com/ where I
downloaded their catalog. I can't view it until I finish downloading the
4 MB Adobe Acrobat Reader version 3.0. :[ Well I'm half way there so it
shouldn't be too much longer, I hope! Your right about their specs being
impressive. Mobil 1 doesn't even match it.

Deacon
deconblu

juno.com (Roberta S Garner)

> battery but I am having trouble keeping the battery charged. It can

Chassis or engine ground cables or straps must be clean and tight
along with battery terminals. Uses dielectric (silicone) grease on
all connections.

> I took it to a mechanic yesterday and the diagnostics all check out
> O.K. All they found was a slightly loose connection of the negative
> battery cable.

You should be able to put a volt meter across the posts while the
engine is running and at 2k rpm you should get upwards of 13v up to
about 15v if it's charging correctly. There are other tests but this
one is simple and gives enough info for most purposes. Along with
the cables and connections the regulator (if external) must be well
grounded, either through the mounting screws to clean sheet metal
or with a wire grounded to the regulator base and a good chassis
ground. If your engine is a retrofit and you have one of the newer
alternators with an electric choke attachment wire the choke wire is
the ground for the field circuit so must be connected as well.

A bad ground anywhere in the system can cause all manner of
headaches.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:06:05 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: manual to auto conversion

> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:45:42 -0700
> From: Dennis Pearson
> Subject: Re: manual to auto conversion

> Did the wide ratio C-6 come in any cars? I've been lurking lately
> and have noticed several references to this tranny. I like the
> sound of it. I am jerking a 429-C-6 from a '70 Marquis. Could this
> be a wide ratio?

Not sure but I believe they were first available in 78 and went
through 86 or so. Cars may have benefited from this, not sure. Try
the larger ones like the Lincoln or LTD's. Marquis may have it too,
not sure. I'd venture to guess all trucks with 351M or 400 in 78/79
and C-6 may have had the wide ratio.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:25:55 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: PTO

Grasshopper writes: >>Hello, im not shure where to put my P.T.O.
On the transmission{NP435} or the transfercase{NP205} its going
rearward for a winch.

If you want it to work with the transmission in neutral, then it will
have to be on the Tranny. The PTO on the transfercase only operates if
the transmission is in gear.(no power to the transfercase unless the
transmission is in some gear.)

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:31:36 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: 12 V.

John P. writes: >>What year did Ford change from 6v to 12v on their
trucks?

Same year as FOMOCO cars . . . . 1956.!!!

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 10:45:34 -0700
From: marko

helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: frame and brake hoses

>My BIG Query is, where can I find brake hoses, front and rear? Some of the
>hoses have the lines attached. The company who is making new brake lines
>from my old pattern, (because they don't have lines for 71 4x4 in their
>inventory) INLINE TUBE, doesn't do brake hoses and they had no advice on a
>company who makes them. They are rotting badly and must be replaced. BTW-
>Inline tube is making them out of stainless for me at a 50% reduced cost
>because they need the pattern. I thought that was awfully cool of them.
>:)

Hey Stu.

You should be able to buy the lines from your parts dealer, no problem. I
can get them up here. Mind you, I have a 250. But it shudn't make much of
a difference.

Any troubles, let me know.

>Help!
>
>BTW_ That cab is one heavy sucker for 2 guys to lift and move 10 feet!

Naw. Try lifting my Dana 60 with both drums on it. That's heavy. The
front end was just as bad!

marko :^]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 10:52:30 -0700
From: marko

helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Timing questions

>Hi guys-
>
>i recently installed a 4v intake and carb on my 71 f250 360. In the
>instructions for installation, there was a note saying "some applications
>may require changing the timing by +/- 2 degrees" (very informative!)
>
>It is running a little rough at the stock timing recommendation- but seems
>to run the smoothest at a timing set that is way off, i.e. not even in the
>range of the marks.
>
>under what condotions do you advance or retard the timing? is there a
>general rule about this? any advice would help.
>
>
You have to get the idle mixture set properly before you go much further.
Two degrees ain't a lot, you know. Time it on the dot (assuming you haven't
changed the cam) to where it's supposed to be, set a normal idle speed, and
set your mixture screws to where you get smoothest idle and maximum vacuum.

Test drive. Adjust timing to get a slight ping on hard uphill and then
check where that is. Back off a little from there to get rid of the ping.
When you have set the timing in this way go back and fix the mixture again.

This is pretty much the best you can do by yourself. For a proper tuneup
you should have your engine scoped.

marko in vancouver
marko

helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:55:40 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Reliability of the 360

> From: DGholsM
> Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 08:47:30 EDT
> Subject: Reliability of the 360

> about 4 sets of donut gaskets my only guess is that it has the wrong
> exhuast pipes on it since purchasing this truck. I decided the next

In my experience the donuts work pretty well but require even
tightening and some anti-seize doesn't hurt to help them seat. If
the flanges on the exhaust pipes are dinged up or rusted you will
never get them to seal no matter how tight you get them and if the
pipes are free to move around as in not properly supported they will
constantly break loose as well.

> time I go under the hood for the Dag Blasted Exhaust Leaks I'm going
> back with Headers and a couple of turbo mufflers. I also installed
> an oil pressure guage and the pressure is great what can I do to get
> better mileage out of this thing. Its a dually and won a pulling

360's are not known for economy. A typical truck application may get
10 mpg up to 12 if you're lucky in stock condition. They often come
with somewhat low gearing which doesn't help matters. I'm going to
experiment with AMSOIL motor oils with a farily fresh engine and
tranny to see if their claims for better mileage are true. They
claim up to 3 - 4 mpg can be gained just by using their oil. The
synthetics are superior in every way so it's got to be good for the
engine in any case but the economy would be a nice bit of icing if
true :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:01:15 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: frame and brake hoses

>
>Hey Stu.
>
>You should be able to buy the lines from your parts dealer, no problem. I
>can get them up here. Mind you, I have a 250. But it shudn't make much of
>a difference.
>
Any particular brand name to look for. Sometimes in life when buying green
beans in the store, brand really matters *little*, but, when we start
talking about essential life saving parts like, say BRAKE hoses, I like to
know I have the best I can afford.
Even if it is an illusion in my mind :O)

ANY recomendations out there??

>Any troubles, let me know.

>>BTW_ That cab is one heavy sucker for 2 guys to lift and move 10 feet!
>
>Naw. Try lifting my Dana 60 with both drums on it. That's heavy. The
>front end was just as bad!

OUCH marko!! let me just say, When I got done lifting that cab off the
frame, I found something all the way down in my socks!! :O( ouch

Thanks Marko, I am so glad you are 2 or 3 steps ahead of me all the time.
It is really making my resto easier!!

Stu

Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 14:12:44 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: tr:300 i-6

> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:39:22 -0700
> From: Dennis Pearson
> Subject: Re: tr:300 i-6

> Thanks for your message at 06:46 AM 4/14/98 -0700, Deacon. Your
> message was: > > You need a cab and chassis for your truck and
> now your putting a >$2500 blower on a stock 70,000 mile 300 inline 6
> to pull a horse >trailer? You have got to be joking! I'm sorry but

> Two songs--"What a day for a daydream..."
>
> "Fly Trans-Love Airlines, get you there on time..."

Deacon's got a point though. Unless you just want to have a high
tech engine setup there are much cheaper options with better
performance and power potential as well if you decide to continue the
tech quest later. Once you put the charger on it you can expect the
economy to drop off roughly as much as your power picks up. It may
still be a little better than a 460 economy wise but won't come close
to the torque in any case. With an I6 already in there you could
bolt in a 351W farily easily too if it's a 2wd.

Call me cold but I believe in form follows function and function is
the bottom line. If I can make 400 pounds of torque for $400 I don't
care how it gets done and the 460 is just about the cheapest 400# of
torque you can bolt in.........

Am I arbitrarily knocking the I6? Am I in love with the 460 because
of it's reputation or big cube number? You be the judge; I'm in love
with accelleration, power, convenience, economy in that order and
untill you've had both you can't possibly know what I'm talking about
:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 14:22:20 -0700
From: james oxley
Subject: power steerin cooler

Have a question about cooling the power steering. Any way the power
steering fluid could be too cool! I am planning on running very large
tires and have an extra factory tranny cooler from a camper special nose
I was thinking of using.

OX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 12:27:33 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Reading Material

Check out this month's issue of "Truckin' " magazine. It has an article
on 50 years of F series trucks. Also "Hot Rod" mentions the F series in
passing as well. Apparently in 1977 the F series truck was the most
popular selling vehicle in America. The first time a TRUCK beat out an
automobile. Also to date there have been more F series trucks sold
world wide than any other vehicle -- including the Beetle. Cool!

Tom H.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 14:37:18 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Timing questions

>Do not try to time it by ear with the vac disconnected and even with....

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