fordtrucks61-79-digest Saturday, April 11 1998 Volume 02 : Number 208



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
fordtrucks61-79-digest-request listservice.net
with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Aluminum Heads [George Herpich ]
re:67-72 F-350 [Bruce Hart ]
Re: Antique insurance for trucks [BDIJXS ]
Re: Antique insurance for trucks ["Michael Redden" ]
Re: Antique insurance for trucks [james oxley ]
RE: Aluminum Heads [Sleddog ]
re:67-72 F-350 [marko ]
RE: Antique insurance for trucks [Sleddog ]
Re: Antique insurance for trucks [james oxley ]
Re: manual to auto conversion ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: manual to auto conversion ["Sam Weatherby" ]
460 Weight and Size [Antonio ]
Auto Krafters [Ken Payne ]
ADMIN: List and web provider solution found. [Ken Payne
RE: manual to auto conversion ["Hogan, Tom" ]
Re: 67-72 F-350 [George Herpich ]
re: A few Dana 60 Questions [sbest ]
Proportioning Valves [BDIJXS ]
Re: Fatal Error, Parts For Sale [POLING4 ]
Re: '64 F100 for sale [POLING4 ]
Re: Auto Krafters [POLING4 ]
Re: Tightening & Torque Specs: Part II [Jeff ]
Re: Proportioning Valves [Don Grossman ]
Re: Tightening & Torque Specs: Part II [Tony Marino ]
Re: manual to auto conversion [danadeb pacbell.net]
First year for extended cab 150's: Please help! [NielsA ]
Please recommend your favorite year/configuration for the F150 [NielsA
Re: Please recommend your favorite year/configuration for the F150 [danad]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 07:07:24 -0400
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: Aluminum Heads

An old drag racing trick was to paint the combustion chamber and piston top
with vht white paint. Even with steel heads piston tops were painted. I
don't know if this is still practiced.
George

Harry Jennings wrote:

> >The faster heat transfer also acts as a huge heat sink
> >to suck heat out of the combustion chamber. This leads
> >to less efficient transfer of power to the piston -- bad.
>
> Hmmm!? Do you think that maybe a ceramic coating (like
> is used on headers and piston tops) could be used on the
> on the aluminum heads combustion chambers to help keep
> the heat where it needs to be?
>
> Just a thought.
>
> Harry.
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 08:20:53 -0400
From: Bruce Hart
Subject: re:67-72 F-350

I'm looking for a cab and chassis to replace my rusted out 1969
F-350.What would the average cost be for one in great condition.I only
need the frame and cab as my current truck is in excellent mechanical
condition but one that runs might be cheaper to get home(southern
Ontario).Distance is a factor,the west coast is out from a cost point of
view,south as far as Florida is doable.Does anybody know what the
difference is if any between the f-350 and the f-250,can I mount my dual
wheel axles on the 250.Standard cab would be fine but a crew cab would
be great,I just don't know how hard it would be to find a good one body
wise.The finished truck will be a flatbed so the box is not
important.Also, I'm looking for bucket seats that will mount in the
67-72 cabs.Saw the new 98 super duty F-350 the other day,if your into a
new heavey hauler this one's got to be the way,I loved it-Bruce Hart

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 09:14:10 EDT
From: BDIJXS
Subject: Re: Antique insurance for trucks

Hey Ox,

Here's the number of an insurance place who specializes in antique car and
trucks.... TSI 1-800-603-3330. I think they are in Minnesota....let us know if
they work out...

Colorado Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 21:46:24 -0400
From: "Michael Redden"
Subject: Re: Antique insurance for trucks

I did some work for an insurance agent recently, who also collects old
cars.
He said that any old car or truck (I believe 20 years +, If I remember
correctly)
can be insured as an antique if it meets these requirements:

1) must be garaged
2) driven 2500 miles a year, or less
3) another vehicle is driven for primary transportation
4) "inexperienced", underage drivers excluded

He said my insurance company, or any other, would be able to do this
for around $150 to $$200 a year (that's in PA, in my area, which is usually
expensive).

I'm not an insurance geek, but thought I'd pass this info on. You might
ask your own agent
about it, too.

Mike

redden enter.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 09:47:57 -0700
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: Antique insurance for trucks

BDIJXS wrote:
>
> Hey Ox,
>
> Here's the number of an insurance place who specializes in antique car and
> trucks.... TSI 1-800-603-3330. I think they are in Minnesota....let us know if
> they work out...
>

Well, they don't do Jersey. Places that do, don't do sport utilites
(broncs) period and really only consider 40-50's trucks puckumups. So, I
guess I'm SOL on that.

OX

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 09:45:26 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Aluminum Heads

some big buck racers and factory R&D have been trying just this, on piston,
combustion chambers, and exhaust ports. they have been researching this
for a long time, but the expense is still high for what gain there is.
don't know the specifics, but i understand that the only people really
using this kind of technology for a useful gain are top fuel racers and
such.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Harry Jennings[SMTP:hjennings hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, April 10, 1998 1:07 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: Aluminum Heads


>The faster heat transfer also acts as a huge heat sink
>to suck heat out of the combustion chamber. This leads
>to less efficient transfer of power to the piston -- bad.

Hmmm!? Do you think that maybe a ceramic coating (like
is used on headers and piston tops) could be used on the
on the aluminum heads combustion chambers to help keep
the heat where it needs to be?

Just a thought.

Harry.

______________________________________________________






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 07:41:38 -0700
From: marko
Subject: re:67-72 F-350

At 08:20 AM 4/10/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm looking for a cab and chassis to replace my rusted out 1969
>F-350.

Bruce,

Good luck finding a crew cab. Most were used by Hydro/logging and are shot,
even around here. Unless your as lucky as the guy on our homepage and find
another from the U of A!

Look at www.buysell.com (vancouver) or www.bargainfind.com (edmonton and
calgary). You shud find somethin there.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 10:23:20 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Antique insurance for trucks

yes, here in the poconos insurance is very high too. where abouts are you?

also, if you don't meet requirements for antique insurance, maybe one of
the specialtie insurance companies that handle things like kit cars could
do something for you. may be worth a try.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Michael Redden[SMTP:redden enter.net]
Sent: Friday, April 10, 1998 9:46 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: Antique insurance for trucks

He said my insurance company, or any other, would be able to do this
for around $150 to $$200 a year (that's in PA, in my area, which is usually
expensive).

I'm not an insurance geek, but thought I'd pass this info on. You might
ask your own agent
about it, too.

Mike

redden enter.net






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 11:09:23 -0700
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: Antique insurance for trucks

Michael Redden wrote:
>
> I did some work for an insurance agent recently, who also collects old
> cars.
> He said that any old car or truck (I believe 20 years +, If I remember
> correctly)
> can be insured as an antique if it meets these requirements:
>
> 1) must be garaged
> 2) driven 2500 miles a year, or less
> 3) another vehicle is driven for primary transportation
> 4) "inexperienced", underage drivers excluded
>
> He said my insurance company, or any other, would be able to do this
> for around $150 to $$200 a year (that's in PA, in my area, which is usually
> expensive).
>
> I'm not an insurance geek, but thought I'd pass this info on. You might
> ask your own agent
> about it, too.
>

The companies I talked too want a show quality vehicle. Well, I'm into
4 wheelin (almost always with my NJ registered club, so I would think
that would be the same as a show, just not as clean), so thats never
gonna happen. All I really want is liability. My current insurance
company (and most in NJ) allready admitted to me that having 3 cars on my
policy must mean I am letting someone else drive one all the time. They
keep harrasing me about where the vehicles are parked and who else is
drving them. I doubt they would go for an antique policy.

The other companies (specializing in ant insur) I talked to said they
don't do Sport utilities , because they don't have much call for it. I
told them "well, I'm callin", but they still said sorry.

It was fine when the truck was in my brothers name and he paid the
insurance, but he's getting divorced, so truck became legally mine and
now I gotta pay it. Oh well, at 500$ per year, I guess it's not
completely horrible.

One other insurance note for those who don't know. I get 15% off my
entire policy for having homeowners with the same company. Not a bad
deal!!

OX

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 08:11:57 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: manual to auto conversion

- ----------
> From: danadeb pacbell.net
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: manual to auto conversion
> Date: Thursday, April 09, 1998 9:53 PM
> > Will there be a transmission
> > cooler that I need and, if so, where is the pump located?
>
> There is no external pump the line pressure is from the trans itself.
>
>
> The trans cooler is inside the radiator. It needs to be there to help
warm up
> the trans faster. (a cold trans is almost as bad as a too hot one!) you
could
> add an external cooler, but I would recommend that if the radiator is in
good
> shape you bring it to a radiator shop and have one added.
>

Uh,uh...the trans cooler in the radiator is strictly a manufacturers
convenience item. It's actually a pretty poor unit. If your reasoning is
that the coolant warms up the trans fluid faster that's incorrect. Remember
that the coolant in the engine doesn't even hit the radiator 'til you're a
ways down the road (unless of course you have no tstat!). The tranny fluid
is pretty warm by then since you're already driving. The only way to "warm
up the trans faster" is to have an external heating unit on it. When you're
driving it's almost impossible to have the trans fluid "too cold."

You'd be much better off to keep the stock radiator and put on a quality
aftermarket cooler mounted in front of the radiator. B&M makes a great
cooler, but whichever one you buy add a few thousand pounds to your GVWR
when you buy it since you don't have any cooling in the radiator. You can
buy steel brake lines at most auto parts stores to use for cooler lines,
but you will need a flaring tool and tubing bender.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 08:27:22 -0700
From: "Sam Weatherby"
Subject: Re: manual to auto conversion

I think that Truck C-6's have lower first and second.
-srw

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 08:55:11 -0700
From: Antonio
Subject: 460 Weight and Size

Hello Everyone,
I have a 59 Ranchero with the stock Police Special 352 motor.
Recently I have come across a 460 with tranny for $300. Hmmm... Not to
start any FE vs 460 wars but it appeals to
my inborn urge to render the car/truck inoperable for a few months (years?)
while it relaxes on jackstands, takes up the driveway and makes my
girlfriend question our love.
Dearborn classics has engine mount kits for this conversion so I assume it
is doable, my questions center more around the
weight and size of the 460 vs the venerable FE. Are the two engines
dimensionally similar? The engine bay is already quite crowded with the FE.
I can't imagine there is too much that weighs more than the FE, but any
input on this from the Masters of all things Ford would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks,
Antonio

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 15:28:30 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Auto Krafters

Dear Ford Truck Enthusiasts:

We have a new advertiser on our web site. Our practice with
web site advertisers has been to make a brief announcement for
2 days (this is day 1 of 2). Please show your appreciation to
them for helping to support the web site and the lists by
checking out their site:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.auto krafters. com

Auto Krafters sells new parts for both new and old Ford/Mercury
trucks and cars. They carry parts for late model Explorers,
Expeditions, Rangers, and F-series. Additionally, they sell
parts to help restore 1953-1979 to original condition. They
carry 13 different catalogs of genuine and reproduction parts.

We would like to have them know that you heard about them via
the Ford Truck Enthusiasts group.

Now returning you to our regularly scheduled program...

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 16:26:26 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: List and web provider solution found.

We've found a new provider/host for the lists and web site. Since
we have a new advertiser and many list members have emailed me to
let me know they're getting a window sticker, the startup cost is
covered. This month is an expensive month for us, especially since
there will be a two week overlap for the web sites so I can set up
everything on the new service.

We did a ton of web searches and found a virtual server provider that
is reasonablity priced with many features. By switching over to a
"virtual server" (vs the "virtual host" we currently use) we gain the
following:

1. We can add more lists and more list members without increasing our
costs.
2. Database support. This makes a full blown private party classified
page with adds, deletes and edits easy to support. People visiting
the page will be able to do intelligent ad searches. The Events page
will have the same features.
3. The ability to schedule jobs, such as a monthly email newsletter.
4. Growth. We can add extra web space at the rate of $1/meg/month.
5. Free web space for members will be supported. We have no reseller
or reuse restrictions.
6. Those using the free web space can purchase additional space at
the above $1/meg/month (we're simply going to pass-on our costs).
7. True FTP and telnet logins for web space users!
8. CGI script support for web space users! Add your own scripts such
as counters, guestbooks, etc.
9. Ford truck clubs will get additional free web space (size not yet
determined) over the current 300k.
10.Searchable archives.
11.Tons more!

No outage of list or web page service is anticipated and the transition
will be at the end of the month.

Ken and Peggy Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 10:04:07 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: manual to auto conversion

Dave,

Here goes:

1. Where can I get a donor C6? Only from a truck or is a C6 from a car
the same? What years will fit? Is it better to pull the transmission
myself or go to a junk yard where they pull it for you?

Car or truck make sure the donor vehicle has an FE series motor
(390,360,352,427,428 etc) The FE has a different bellhousing than other
engine families. U-Pullit yard are usually cheaper and you can get all
the brackets and linkages at the same time. Also you can take a camera
and snap some pictures of the installed unit for later reference.

2. I would like to get a C6 with overdrive -- any comments? I will be
towing a 3500 lb boat every once in a while, but mostly its a strictly
on
road commuting vehicle.

I don't believe overdrive was ever offered in a C-6. Later models
offered the "wide ratio gearset" which offers a lower ratio 1st and 2nd
gear but 3rd is still 1:1. What can be done with this is to go with a
lower numerical ratio rear end (2.75:1 or 3.00:1) still have the same
relative starting final ratio but a lower final ratio in 3rd which is
effectively the same as an overdrive. I think the wide ratio was
offered in 78-79 models. It can be retrofitted and is available from
Ford. Alternatively there are auxiliary overdrive units but when I
checked the shop wanted $3,000 installed for one. Shot me down right
away.

3. What do I need from the donor vehicle? I know I need the linkage to
the carb for the kick-down but am unsure of anything else. Presumably
the
fly wheel is replaced with a flex plate? Will there be a transmission
cooler that I need and, if so, where is the pump located? If I can find
a
C6 on a shortbed I guess I should snag the drive shaft also.

Definately get the flex plate. Most FE's were internally balanced so
they should swap. I think the 427 was externally ballanced and don't
know about the 428. Flexplates from these motors may not be correctly
balanced for your application. Check your radiator and see if it has
fittings for the transmission lines. The cooling runs off internal
pressure so there is no extra pump. If your radiator does not have
provisions for ATF cooling and it is older this may be a good time to
upgrade to a heavier (460 or 4 row) radiator with the ATF cooling
provisions. You may want to grab the steel lines that go from the trans
to the radiator as well. Measure your current drive shaft. If it is
the same length then I can't see why you would need a new one.

4. Should I replace the rear main seal while I have the transmission
off?
If so, what is involved in doing this? My engine has about 80,000 miles
on
it.

80K doesn't seem like that much and if it isn't leaking I wouldn't mess
with it. If when you get inside however check it closely to see if it
has been leaking.

5. Should I get the transmission rebuilt before installing it? I have
been told this will be expensive and I'd be better of just throwing it
in
and driving it until it dies and then getting another. Is it possible
to
rebuild one myself? I have heard this is difficult and since auto
transmissions are a complete mystery to me, I am a little worried about
doing this myself though it does seem like it might be fun.

The trans guy I talked to described the C-6 as a dinosaur (in strength
and toughness) compared to late model transmissions. If there is any
way you can test drive it and it shifts ok I wouldn't worry about it.
If you want to try rebuilding one get an extra one from the yard and
practice on it. The most important thing is to keep it ABSOLUTELY CLEAN
during the rebuild. There are several good books on autotransmissions
check them out for info or get a shop manual.

6. I know that I'll need another shifter. Are there any floor shifters
that I could use from a donor vehicle or will I need to get an
aftermarket
shifter?

I seem to recall some aftermarket manufacturer offered a long stick
autotrans shifter for floor mounting in a truck. Most floor mounted
shifters are too short for truck applications and would require the
driver to reach down to within 6 inches of the floor. Try it and see if
it seems convienent especially if you need to shift quickly. Also ask
yourself (or your wife) if your wife will want to reach down that far to
shift the truck. Check out the advertisers in the custom truck rags for
a shifter. Otherwise get a steering column from a auto trans truck and
put it in.

7. Any other suggestions?
Find a good donor vehicle that a private party want to sell. You can
probably get the parts you need including the steering column and
upgrade anything else on your truck that may be worn and then sell the
donor vehicle. Who knows in your search for a donor vehicle you may
find a good enough deal on a running truck you don't have to do the
swap.

Thanks in advance - this list has been really helpful in the past.

Good Luck

Tom H.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 18:59:02 -0400
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: 67-72 F-350

Florida is not a good place to look for rust free anything. Everything rusts
but in different places. Frames are usually ok but this climate rots rubber
and the high volume of rain makes leaks a real problem. Then there's the
humidity.....
When anyone here is looking for a good truck we look in Georgia and the
Carolina's. Also states like TN and AL, and I'm sure there are others, that
get not so much rain and are below the snow belt. Plus trucks have always
been very popular in these areas and are more plentiful.
All this said, when it's time for my next project, I'm going to bite the
bullet and go to the southwest and get something with ZERO rust. I hate that
stuff!!

George

Bruce Hart wrote:

> I'm looking for a cab and chassis to replace my rusted out 1969
> F-350.What would the average cost be for one in great condition.I only
> need the frame and cab as my current truck is in excellent mechanical
> condition but one that runs might be cheaper to get home(southern
> Ontario).Distance is a factor,the west coast is out from a cost point of
> view,south as far as Florida is doable.Does anybody know what the
> difference is if any between the f-350 and the f-250,can I mount my dual
> wheel axles on the 250.Standard cab would be fine but a crew cab would
> be great,I just don't know how hard it would be to find a good one body
> wise.The finished truck will be a flatbed so the box is not
> important.Also, I'm looking for bucket seats that will mount in the
> 67-72 cabs.Saw the new 98 super duty F-350 the other day,if your into a
> new heavey hauler this one's got to be the way,I loved it-Bruce Hart
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 19:15:42 -0300
From: sbest
Subject: re: A few Dana 60 Questions

>from BDIJXS
>For those F-250 Dana 60 (rear axle) experts...
>
>1) What size are the threads on the lug studs, 1/2", or 9/16"? If they are
>9/16", can you replace them with 1/2"? (my front axle lugs are 1/2")



1/2" inch on my 1978, 9/16" on my 87,
I put a 1/2" stud F250 axle on the front of my E350 van, could not replace
either stud either way but no need to, both will fit any rim, just means
you have to carry 2 wheel wrenches.



Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
6.9 litre diesel Ford van, full-time 4 wheel drive
"Hang on kids, we're going through..."
4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tire chains, camping gear, tools and first aid stuff too...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 21:23:02 EDT
From: BDIJXS
Subject: Proportioning Valves

Can anyone check their books to see if the brake proportioning valves for the
77 F-150 4x4 (disc brakes) and the 76-77 F-250 4x4 (heavy duty, dual piston
calipers) are the same? What about the master cylinders as well?

I have a master cylinder and proportioning valve out of the F-150 and am using
the F-250 brakes and hubs. I'm pretty sure I have the air out of the system,
but there seems to still be excess travel in the brake pedal. I'll re-bleed
again tomorrow to make sure, but I need to know if these parts are even
interchangable at all.....

Any experts here on such a swap????

Colorado Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 23:10:34 EDT
From: POLING4
Subject: Re: Fatal Error, Parts For Sale

Yes, Ford did put the AM-FM in the deluxe special orders for the 1971 model
year.
Yes cleveland had the rock stations back then also, the wave of the future.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 23:14:45 EDT
From: POLING4
Subject: Re: '64 F100 for sale

Hey Bob,

Do you have any extra chrome or parts for the 72 F-100 that you would like to
sale.

Interior or exterior parts.

Rick

POLING4 AOL.COM

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 23:20:04 EDT
From: POLING4
Subject: Re: Auto Krafters

Hey Ken,

You the MAN.....

Thanx's for the auto krafters. com info, I have been searching for a business
that is
involved with orginial parts for F-100's for a while......


Rick

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 23:55:37 -0400
From: Jeff
Subject: Re: Tightening & Torque Specs: Part II

Tony Dude!

Thanks!!! My only question is which "3" should be a "5"???
(I'm guessing it's the one on the bottom?)

Thanks again!

Sifu Jeff

Tony Marino wrote:

> Hey Man!
>
> Ok, line up the holes with my little cheesy diagram. Looking on the side
> of the motor with the manifold you have: (non proportional space font)
>
> 4 2 3 1 11 12 13
> 3 6 7 8 9 10
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 21:53:41 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Proportioning Valves

BDIJXS wrote:

> Can anyone check their books to see if the brake proportioning valves for the
> 77 F-150 4x4 (disc brakes) and the 76-77 F-250 4x4 (heavy duty, dual piston
> calipers) are the same? What about the master cylinders as well?
>
> I have a master cylinder and proportioning valve out of the F-150 and am using
> the F-250 brakes and hubs. I'm pretty sure I have the air out of the system,
> but there seems to still be excess travel in the brake pedal. I'll re-bleed
> again tomorrow to make sure, but I need to know if these parts are even
> interchangable at all.....
>
> Any experts here on such a swap????
>
> Colorado Jeff

With the dual piston calipers you will have to use a master cylinder out of a
250/350 that came with the larger calipers. I used a 78-9 master cylinder (F250
4x4) and it works great. The F150 just does not move enough fluid.

I also used the proportioning valve out of a 72 Mach 1 and it seems to work so
the valve out of the F150 should be ok if not better.


- --
Don Grossman
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://206.184.7.89
ftp://206.184.7.89/files
The above IP is my home computer address. It is only accessible while I am
online.
I am online some time between the hours of 5-9PM Pacific M-F and on and off
during the weekend.
duckdon pacific.net

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 02:21:13 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: Tightening & Torque Specs: Part II

Whoops! Your right. Sorry!

Tony
tony pscico.com
www.pscico.com/~tony

>Tony Dude!
>
>Thanks!!! My only question is which "3" should be a "5"???
>(I'm guessing it's the one on the bottom?)
>
>Thanks again!
>
>Sifu Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 23:40:29 -0700
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: manual to auto conversion

Bill Beyer wrote:
>

>
> Uh,uh...the trans cooler in the radiator is strictly a manufacturers
> convenience item.

It is convenient.


> It's actually a pretty poor unit.


They seem to have worked very well for millions of cars/trucks.


> If your reasoning is
> that the coolant warms up the trans fluid faster that's incorrect. Remember
> that the coolant in the engine doesn't even hit the radiator 'til you're a
> ways down the road (unless of course you have no tstat!).


The engine will get to operating temp way before the trans will.



> The tranny fluid
> is pretty warm by then since you're already driving. The only way to "warm
> up the trans faster" is to have an external heating unit on it.


That's what the radiator does.


> When you're
> driving it's almost impossible to have the trans fluid "too cold."




lets see the engine has a thermostat to keep it from getting too cold, Big Rigs
have louvers to limit the air flow through their radiators. Cooling towers on
office buildings stage their fans to keep the fluid from getting too cool.


>
> You'd be much better off to keep the stock radiator and put on a quality
> aftermarket cooler mounted in front of the radiator.



If it was mounted it behind the radiator then you might get a little heat from
the radiator to keep things warmer when needed.

Lets see in the north west at 10 below the operating temp of the trans would be
a little too much on the low side. By the way All of the add on trans coolers I
have ever seen specifically state that the new cooler should be installed in
series with the in radiator cooler.



> B&M makes a great
> cooler, but whichever one you buy add a few thousand pounds to your GVWR
> when you buy it since you don't have any cooling in the radiator.


Some hi end, add on, trans coolers come with thermostatically controlled valves
to keep the trans at it's proper operating temp.



> You can
> buy steel brake lines at most auto parts stores to use for cooler lines,
> but you will need a flaring tool and tubing bender.
>


I stand by original comment!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 02:57:40 EDT
From: NielsA
Subject: First year for extended cab 150's: Please help!

Hi!

Thanks for reading my post!

Please tell me which was the first year that the F150 was offered with the
extended cab.

Thanks in advance!

Nielsa aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 03:00:48 EDT
From: NielsA
Subject: Please recommend your favorite year/configuration for the F150

Hi!

Thanks for reading my post.

Please recommend your favorite F150. I'm shopping for a fun new (old) truck,
but I don't know which years to stay away from. I like the early seventies
years a lot, but I worry about reliability. And which size motor would serve
me best in the city (I won't be hauling anything serious).

Thanks in advance!

Nielsa ....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.