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Return-Path: Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 03:50:33 -0700 (MST) From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest To: fordtrucks61-79-digest Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #2 Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest fordtrucks61-79-digest Saturday, January 3 1998 Volume 02 : Number 002 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks61-79-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: 9" limited slip unit needed [jniolon RE: Fuel Economy [Thomas Hogan ] Re: Fuel Economy ["kingw" ] Autometer gauges ["Canuel" ] bad lifter? [SAR HOG ] Re: Fuel Economy [danadeb RE: front spoilers [Sleddog ] RE: bad lifter? [Sleddog ] Stan's Headers ["woody" ] Re: Stan's Headers [marko ] ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 07:25 -0400 (EDT) From: jniolon Subject: 9" limited slip unit needed A Happy New Year to everyone... How many of you started on your New Years resolution when you said "I've got to clean up this mess !!" So.. in your diligent effort to do that...uncover that 9" limited slip or traction loc pumpkin. I don't need the case or the axles...just the 3rd member. any gear from 2.75 to 3.50. Come on guys...I need the pumpkin...you need the floor space. Everyone should be able to walk at least 6 feet thru their shop without stepping over something, shouldn't they ? I'll be....Standin' by the mailbox for the UPS guy with a hernia... (hey !! that could be a country song...) thanks John ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 09:05:02 -0800 From: Thomas Hogan Subject: RE: Fuel Economy Jim, If the motor needs refreshing I would chuck it in favor of a 390. The feeling on the list is that the 390 gives more power with about the same or better mileage. I don't know why this is. They are from the same family and basically have the same design. Maybe the 390 is more efficient because it can overcome internal friction better. If you don't work with the truck (I use mine for commuting mainly) the first choice would be to go to a lower numerical rear gear. Mine has a 3.00. I would like to go to a 2.73 with a wide ratio C-6. Other mods that could improve mileage are dual exhaust, better cam, intake or carb. Spreadbore carbs with smaller primary venturies seem to offer good low speed throtle response and efficiency (if you can stay out of the secondaries). Jacobs electronics offers a multiple spark ignition system and advertises better power and economy. As far as converting from points ignition, the Ford duraspark system eliminates points, is very reliable was offered on FE motors, and the parts can be had at the salvage yard cheap. There is a web page with this conversion featured but I forget the address. Good luck and welcome to the list. Tom H. 76 F-150 Supercab 390FE Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 08:59:27 +0000 From: "James E. Brady III" Subject: Fuel Economy Guys, I am new to the list and own a 1971 F-100. It has a 360 with 4barrel manifold from a 390 and a Holley 600 cfm carb. The rest of the driveline is a four speed with granny low (is this a top loader?) and 9 inch with 3.70 or 4.11 rear gears. I want to improve fuel mileage. My first obvious choice is to get a taller rear gear since I don't even use first gear. The second thing I want to do is get 'The Ignitor' to replace the points. Does anyone have any suggestions for other improvements? I am willing to change to a more efficient cam also. The current cam is stock. I know this is not the most efficient motor but any suggestions would be appreciated. Jim - ------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 13:21:20 -0600 From: "kingw" Subject: Re: Fuel Economy Jim, One, seems that w/ those rearend gears you would be tripping the secondaries on your carb a lot (thus killing your gas mileage). I would suggest lower rearend gears. Just for reference, I'm running 3.25s (w 235/70 15s) and run 2,000 rpms at 55 mph in 4th gear (and 2,500 rpms at 69 mph in 4th). Depending on how fast I go, I can usually knock down 15 mpg on the highway if I keep it under 70 mph (I am running a two barrel however). Two, I don't think you have a toploader, for I have never heard of one w/ a granny gear. Finally, you might consider building a front spoiler for your truck if you do a fair amount of highway driving (*flame proof suit now on*). I had seen an old Car and Driver series from the early 1970s where they only put front spoilers onto a bunch of cars (I recall a Pinto and 240z) and got substantial mileage improvements. You could make one yourself out of sheet metal (I wouldn't buy one. They may look nicer, but they won't work as well as one you made yourself. The idea behind them is very simple) and (provided you made it right) should see some improvement. Just an idea. Bill ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 11:41:16 -0700 From: "Canuel" Subject: Autometer gauges Thought this might be of interest. I just bought an Autometer Fuel gauge and matching sender from Summit, and guess what? The matched set is not actually matched. There was apparently an error in Autometer's information and they don't actually make a sender for the Ford type fuel gauge as they advertise. So if anyone's thinking about buying one of these gauges, make sure that you have a working sender. Joe ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 18:26:30 EST From: SAR HOG Subject: bad lifter? I've been chasing my fouled #1 plug problem for quite some time now with no luck so far. Today, I pulled the intake manifold, hoping to find the problem. The intake gasket looks fine, all the intake runners on the heads are the same shade of black , the intake runners on the intake are clean. While I was in there, I spun the pushrods to make sure they weren't bent (they aren't), then I tried to move them up and down against the lifters. All were tight except for the #1 intake one. It will move up and down considerably. So now I'm thinking I need a new lifter. Is there a way to tell, besides what I just did? Can I just replace one, or do I need to replace the whole set? Anything else I should be looking at? Thanks for the help folks. John Z 67 F-100 460/C-6 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 19:18:06 -0800 From: danadeb Subject: Re: Fuel Economy Thomas Hogan wrote: > > As far as converting from points ignition, the Ford duraspark system > eliminates points, is very reliable was offered on FE motors, and the > parts can be had at the salvage yard cheap. There is a web page with > this conversion featured but I forget the address. > Here is the site: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/duraspark.html Dana ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 22:28:21 -0500 From: Sleddog Subject: RE: front spoilers on low vehicles the front spoiler works by reducing the airflow under the vehicle. on trucks, especially 4x4, there is no substantial reduction without getting the spoiler very close to the ground, and that removes part of the reason for owning a truck - ground clearance. it also looks very odd, unless your truck is already "in the weeds!" some new trucks are sold with a spoiler as a option, but they are really just for looks. i am not saying it wouldn't work on a low truck. but that's the key, it's gotta be low. sleddog - ----- I am so jealous of all of you getting over 10 MPG, hell, if i could get 8 MPG I'd throw a party!! Finally, you might consider building a front spoiler for your truck if you do a fair amount of highway driving (*flame proof suit now on*). I had seen an old Car and Driver series from the early 1970s where they only put front spoilers onto a bunch of cars (I recall a Pinto and 240z) and got substantial mileage improvements. You could make one yourself out of sheet metal (I wouldn't buy one. They may look nicer, but they won't work as well as one you made yourself. The idea behind them is very simple) and (provided you made it right) should see some improvement. Just an idea. Bill +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 | List removal information is on the web site. | +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 22:33:03 -0500 From: Sleddog Subject: RE: bad lifter? you may want to check the rocker for extreme wear at the locations it contacts the valve and at the pushrod. it may cause the slop, or, if it is the lifter the slop could have beat the rocker arm up and maybe even the tip of the valve. i hate to say it, but it is remotely possible (unlikely) that one cam lobe is wiped. if you pull that lifter and it is worn badly on the face, it definatly damaged the cam. sleddog - ---------- From: SAR HOG[SMTP:SARHOG Sent: Friday, January 02, 1998 6:26 PM To: fordtrucks61-79 Subject: bad lifter? I've been chasing my fouled #1 plug problem for quite some time now with no luck so far. Today, I pulled the intake manifold, hoping to find the problem. The intake gasket looks fine, all the intake runners on the heads are the same shade of black , the intake runners on the intake are clean. While I was in there, I spun the pushrods to make sure they weren't bent (they aren't), then I tried to move them up and down against the lifters. All were tight except for the #1 intake one. It will move up and down considerably. So now I'm thinking I need a new lifter. Is there a way to tell, besides what I just did? Can I just replace one, or do I need to replace the whole set? Anything else I should be looking at? Thanks for the help folks. John Z 67 F-100 460/C-6 +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 | List removal information is on the web site. | +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 21:27:05 -0700 From: "woody" Subject: Stan's Headers Anyone out there installed headers for a 460 transplant into 1970s F250 chassis from Stan's Headers (N. Auburn, WA)? They're a 4-2-1 design like the Thorley product for 1980s and newer vehicles. Would like user experience on fit... well/poorly, quality of finish, etc. (web site stans-headers.com). Woody wfriesen ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 23:55:02 -0800 From: marko Subject: Re: Stan's Headers At 09:27 PM 1/2/98 -0700, you wrote: >Anyone out there installed headers for a 460 transplant into 1970s F250 >chassis from Stan's Headers (N. Auburn, WA)? They're a 4-2-1 design like >the Thorley product for 1980s and newer vehicles. Would like user >experience on fit... well/poorly, quality of finish, etc. (web site >stans-headers.com). > I am just about to get a set for my FE 4x4 from him. I called the guy and it sounds like he makes them quite well, they are nickel-chrome plated, and made-to-order. I get the feeling I am dealing with a small shop here that will fix anything that isn't right. Apparently Stan has been in business.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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