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Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:26:51 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #191
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, March 30 1998 Volume 02 : Number 191



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FE flywheel and crank [George Herpich ]
Re: 1967 f100 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Bed time (floor replacement) [Dennis Pearson ]
Re: Bed time (floor replacement) ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: hood scoop [Sleddog ]
352/390 flywheel [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Power Steering Problems [Jim Craig ]
RE: Bed time (floor replacement) ["Gillespie, John D."
RE: Whiter whites, Brighter brights.. the website. ["Gillespie, John D." ]
'61 Unibody FOR SALE [John Strauss ]
Re: Screen Stupidity ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights! ["Dave Resch" ]
Re: Cleaning out shop... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Look Ma, no feet! ["Dave Resch" ]
Re: Cleaning out shop... ["Deacon" ]
Re: Cleaning out shop... ["Bill Beyer" ]
Was: Re: Whiter whites, Brighter brights.. the website. NOW: Tech Articles ["Hogan, Tom"
RE: Cleaning out shop... [Sleddog ]
Re: Screens, flames, and such. ["Harry Jennings" ]
Re: Screens, flames, and such. [Mike Schwall ]
Re: Bed time (floor replacement) ["Arnold Gladwell" ]
Re: 2100/2150 carbs ["Dave Resch" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 06:06:39 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: FE flywheel and crank

DC Beatty wrote:

> Does anybody know if there is a way to visually distinguish between an iron
> crank and a steel one?
>
> If there are thin parting lines on the unmachined surfaces, like
> counterweights, it's cast. Forged will have much wider raised lines, it's
> been a long time since I looked at one but I think 1/4" or more. If it's a
> 390 it almost has to be cast. Unless someone cut down a ft crank.

George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 08:48:21 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 1967 f100

> From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
> Subject: 1967 f100
> Date: Sat, 28 Mar 1998 22:25:30 -0600

> The main problem is rust; the front floor pans, the cab mounts, cab
> crossmember, and it also has some rust in the cab corners, aside
> My questions are: About how much would it cost to fix this properly,
> and how were the floorpans of these trucks originally put together?

Typical for that year. Rebuild the floor first from the ground up.
I you don't have a welder and/or don't weld then it's going to cost
more than it's worth. It would be better to find a good cab.


> With the 3.73 gears and the 390, this truck can accelerate with a
> Z28, but it has terrible economy and top speed. What gears would be
> a good compromise between acceleration and highway cruising and fuel
> economy?

It depends on the size of tire you plan to use. With typical LT
tires in the 29" range and mostly street commuting type driving 3.00
would be a good choice. If you are towing or hauling a lot then 3.50
would be better but mileage will suffer a bit. The 3.73 gear was to
offset the diminutive 240 engine's lack of power for hauling loads
but is not necessary with the 390. If you plan to run over size
tires (which requires a lift) then you need to calculate the gears to
give you roughly 2000 - 2200 rpm at 60 mph for best economy with a 3
speed auto. Again depending on usage you can go all the way to 1900
for easy cruising but move up closer to 2200 if you haul or tow very
much.

> Also when my dad had to drive this truck in the snow and
> ice, he said it was awful. Any suggestions on how to help this and

I put bags of salt or sand or cement blocks right at the tail gate,
evenly distributed across the width of the bed. The idea is not so
much to add weight to the vehicle total weight as it is to
redistribute the weight to the rear which is too light. By putting
the weight as far back as you can you actually draw some weight from
the front to the back without adding too much to the total weight due
to the leverage against the rear axle. I generally put enough weight
at the tail gate to just begin raising the front end. If you get
carried away here you will destroy the handling by making the front
end too light and changing the alignment as well. If you have loose
king pins they will make themselve known here too :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 06:42:44 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: Bed time (floor replacement)

Thanks for your message at 04:25 PM 3/29/98 -0800, sdelanty. Your message was:
>
>
> How heavy is the bed? Once it's unbolted can 2 people pick it and
> move it, or do I need to buy a 12 pack and invite more friends?

Where I come from, a 12 pack would barely be enough for 2 people, moving a
truck bed, or not.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 10:45:26 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Bed time (floor replacement)

> Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 16:25:19 -0800
> From: sdelanty
> Subject: Bed time (floor replacement)

> How heavy is the bed? Once it's unbolted can 2 people pick it and
> move it, or do I need to buy a 12 pack and invite more friends? It
> looks kind of awkward and "floppy", just 3 sides and a tailgate...
> Any good advise, tips, warnings, etc, on removing/replacing the
> bed?

I've had my 78 full size bed off several times and it took two people
to handle it fairly easily. I also made up a lift bar for it which
is a 2" pipe with eye in the center and legs that fit into the center
stake holes and pins throuth them to hold it together. I welded some
large (maybe 2.5") angle iron about 8" long on each end of the pipe
so it fit inside the bed rail and also rested on top to support the
sheet metal with pipe which fit into the stake holes.

The bed is very flimsy if you try to lift it with chains or
ropes ect. so I came up with this method which will work on a
perfectly fininshed bed without damage when you need to work on the
chassis or something but it can be lifted off by two fairly stout
gentlemen too :-)

I have an "I" beam in my shop with chain fall so it works pretty well
but I just bought an engine lift for $249 which will lift the bed
easily. With my pipe lift and this engine lift I can take the bed
off anywhere I want and set it on blocks or whatever just by pushing
it up under the rear of the truck and driving the truck out from
under it. I've wanted one of these lifts for a long time and I must
say now that I have it I don't know how I managed without it :-)

> What should I do to protect the oak? I'm undecided whether to

Oak is one of the most durable of woods so Teak shouldn't be any
better really. Spar varnish is a good choice if you thin it out and
really soak it in and do each board separately at first so all the
edges and especially the ends are well soaked in. Every spring then
after that just give the top another coat to keep it from drying out.
Oils work well too but if it's not kept in a garage (doesn't sound
like it unless your garage is like mine) the weather will wash the
oils out and the sun will warp the wood etc..

I've had a piece of plywood in my bed for many years and though it
de-laminates over time it still keeps the sand and stone in the bed
for the most part. Oak should last a very long time if you treat it
REAL, REAL thoroughly before installing it :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 10:11:48 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: hood scoop

one of the ones from the mopar big block dart, or other cars (they came on
a few, but i can't remember all of them.) wide, flat, with a big opening.
looks good on fords even tho it is a mopar. these also have small pins in
the front to support the large opening.

if it is "in the weeds" i think the pro stock type looks nice, but only if
the rest is "pro street type"

sleddog

- ----------
From: Chris Samuel[SMTP:fourmuelz email.msn.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 1998 7:17 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: OOPS! Was: Cleaning out shop...

Sorry All, this was suppose to go else where.
Amazing things happen when you have a cold!

Chris
79 Bronco

FTC:
So What is the best looking Hood Scoop for my Bronco? Anyone?









+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 10:26:21 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 352/390 flywheel

Drew writes: >>The 390 I got has a chewed up flywheel. Is there any
difference between it (weight, balancing, etc.) and the one off my
352?

Balance is the same - bolt pattern is the same. Count the teeth -
somewhere in the late '60's or early '70's they changed the teeth
spacing.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 10:50:22 -0500
From: Jim Craig
Subject: Re: Power Steering Problems

This may be a week late, but.....

The problem I had how there was no power assist at idle has been solved,
but I'm not sure how. I swapped the reman pump, blasted the lines with
compressed air, took a quater-turn off the preload, and flushed the living
daylights out of her. Don't know which one did it, but I she finally
steers and handles almost perfect and I don't have to slow to 50 to change
lanes!!!

Jimbo
'77 Supercab
Badly In Need Of
Swaybars!


The clip-on convex rearview mirrors from Northern Hydraulics always seemed
like junk until some fool slid by me sideways on the interstate and I
barely saw him coming...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 08:49:22 -0800
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: Bed time (floor replacement)

Steve I agree with either the Spar Varnish or maybe linseed oil. The
only thing about linseed is that you would probably have to re-coat it
one a year.

What should I do to protect the oak? I'm undecided whether to
paint
the wood with a plastic "Varathane" type coating, or to just
use some
kind of oil on the wood to waterproof it.
Anyone got some thoughts for me on this one?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 09:00:36 -0800
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: Whiter whites, Brighter brights.. the website.

Steve, Deacon, Dana, Ken and all the others that commented on the thread
Righteous write-up and diagrams. I have properly downloaded and
will be installing this evening when I get home from work.
I wonder if it will work with the wife's LTD? Even if it don't work w/
the LTD its going into the 66 F100.

John
66 F100, 240-I6
82 LTD, 302AOD
94 Ranger Splash 4.0L (I hate Liters)

-----Original Message-----
From:sdelanty [SMTP:sdelanty sonic.net]
Sent:Saturday, March 28, 1998 10:56 AM
To:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject:Whiter whites, Brighter brights.. the website.


Both Dana and Deacon were kind enough to proof-read the goods,
and both graciously offered up web space to post it.
I just sent it off for a proofread, and the next thing I knew
both
Dana and Deacon sent me back URL's to go check out!
Deacon "won"? the job of putting together the page by virtue
of
having something up and running before I even knew He was
working
on it... Dana was only minutes behind with the beginings of a
page.
*Much* thanks to both of them for their help and enthusiasm!
Also, thanks to the members of the truck list, Tom, Gary,
Don, and
others who participated in the "whiter whites" thread. Some of
their
comments and suggestion got incorporated into the final
schematic
as "options" which I will add to my truck soon.



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 11:39:27 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: '61 Unibody FOR SALE

Well, I found a really great '78 Bronco that I want but my wife says I
can't have it unless I thin the existing herd. So, I am trying to move my
'61 Unibody FAST. This is a project truck that needs restoring. It's a
short bed, plain jane model. 223 Six, 3-speed on the column. It runs and
drives but loses oil pressure when it warms up. Black in color, regular
back glass (not a "big window"). The body is straight and it is pretty
complete except it needs a windshield and rear glass due to some errant
gunshots from 2 hotheads next door (not next door to me, thankfully, they
were next door to the place I had this thing stored for a time). I have
the new rubbers for the glass already. There is some rust on the tailgate,
the front of the bed, and the floorboards. None of it is what I would call
"active" - looks like it's been that way for a long time. The truck is
located in Austin, Texas. I would be willing to discuss possible delivery
in Texas, Arkansas, or Louisiana. Like I said I want to move it fast so
make me an offer. Email me direct if you want to make an offer or would
like more specific details. Thanks.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:09:51 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Screen Stupidity

> From: "Robert Harris"
> Subject: Screen Stupidity
> Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 07:48:42 -0800

> The moral of this - simple. If you haven't seen it used and unless
> its as new as the latest white house bimbo story, there is probably
> a reason - and generally its because it doesn't work.

Probably why we don't see anyone running fords on short
tracks............................Sorry, forgot this was a ford list
:-) I plan to change that tho with my highfalutin TBird (if I ever
get it off the drawing board :-))

I tend to agree with you but it's sad that these companies will sell
the stuff, knowing full well it's a placebo at best and harmful at
worst. Sad, really sad :-( Sometimes it's hard even for intelegent,
experienced and knowledgeable people to make good choices on some of
this stuff. Before we had the internet it was hard for a person to
get info on stuff like this. Fire suits are a good example. You can
say you get what you pay for but at some point there are diminishing
returns so what then is "adequate" for your needs? Therein lies the
rub :-(

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 12:14:04 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights!

>From: sdelanty
>Subject: Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights!
>
> I wanted to just use spade lugs, but headlight lugs are
> an odd size. Bigger than a 1/4" lug, but smaller than a
> 3/8" lug. It must be 5/16" or 8mm or something silly.

Yo Steve:

I did this same project (headlight relays) about 3 years ago on my 1980
F250 and went through the same hassle as I tried to upgrade the system.

Since I was replacing wires to the headlights w/ 14 gauge wire, I pulled
the connectors out of the original factory 3-prong sockets. The original
connectors were crimped only, no solder, so I figured I'd just pry them
open and re-crimp them on the new wires and add a little solder for good
measure. (It seemed so easy and logical.) After severely jamming both an
Xacto knife blade and the tip of my needle-nose pliers into my thumb
(severely, mind you!), I gave up on de-crimping the old connectors.
Apparently, they were made of some super-hard brass alloy, probably of
extraterrestrial origin.

When I went out to look for suitable female spade connectors to replace the
originals, I found the same "non-standard" problem you did. Finally, at my
favorite off-the-wall electronics shop (you know, the one staffed by weird
ham radio geeks that make their own vacuum tubes) I found these connectors
that the guy said they used to stock for electric heaters in VWs (maybe it
is a silly 8mm thing!). Turns out, there's not too much demand for 'em any
more, so he practically gives them to me. By golly, they worked like a
charm, so I went back and bought out his entire stock of 20 or so (so I
could have spares, too, 'cause I just hate to custom fab a DIY project
without a few spares on hand in case something goes wrong!).

So, maybe you can check w/ the local VW shops or the better stocked
electronics shops to find these babies.

In the end, I was able to squeeze the new connectors (crimped, soldered,
and covered w/ heat shrink) into the original 3-prong sockets for a pretty
clean and factory original look. Except for that big honking Dick Cepek
double relay (#00600, 350 watts/primary circuit) next to the starter relay
on the inside fender wall and that little auxiliary fuse box on the inner
fender liner, you'd never know the difference.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:25:17 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Cleaning out shop...

> Date: Sat, 28 Mar 1998 18:55:09 -0800 (PST)
> From: Steve & Rockette
> Subject: Re: Cleaning out shop...

> >Superflow Flow Bench Mdl. 110 Low total hours, including the
> >Manual. FOB Portland, Oregon

I thought this was a joke?? Is someone really trying to sell a flow
bench?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 12:28:09 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Look Ma, no feet!

>>Dave,
>>Can you use the foot switch for flash to pass if the
>>lights are off? It doesn't work on my 76. The only
>>time the foot switch does anything is if the headlight
>>switch in on. If your's does work for this what year
>>is the truck? Maybe something Ford added later.
>>I personally like the foot switch although I do agree
>>it is hard to get a fast pulse of light with it.
>
>Now that You've brought it up, I'll probably add a
>pushbutton switch from a switched hot source to the
>coil of my highbeam relay so I can "flash" even when
>the lights are off. Good idea...

Yo Tom & Steve:

The foot switch works like normal, switches between low and high beam only
when the main light switch is on. Does nothing w/out the main light
switch.

The push button is wired like Steve suggests, it closes a circuit with a
hot lead to the high beam switch (relay) coil. That way, I can flash high
beams with or without the low beams turned on. When the low beams are
turned on, I can turn on high beams independently, that is, simultaneously
w/ the low beams, by pushing the button. When high beams are turned on via
the foot switch, the push button does nothing, since the high beam coil is
already energized.

Oh, Steve, that clutch and foot switch driving technique you referred to,
is that what they call "heel and toe?";-)

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 11:14:33 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Cleaning out shop...

From: Gary, 78 BBB
>> >Superflow Flow Bench Mdl. 110 Low total hours, including the
>> >Manual. FOB Portland, Oregon
>
>I thought this was a joke?? Is someone really trying to sell a flow
>bench?

It's true Gary. Chris Samuel's wife is selling his flow bench! :)

Truthfully Gary, Yes Chris did post (later he said it wasn't meant
for the list) he was selling his flow bench to make room for new toys.
Sorry Chris! I just couldn't let this pass without having a little fun.
:)

You know Gary, a flow bench would be quite useful building that race
car! There's room in the garage now! :) Build your wife a car port to
park her car. After all, cars were meant to be outdoors. Tools were
meant to be indoors! (Tim Allen grunts would be here if I knew how to
spell them) :)
Later!

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
========================================
Truckin' , I'm a goin' home,
Whoa whoa baby, back where I belong,
Back home, sit down and patch my bones
And git back truckin' on.
========================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 11:43:19 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Cleaning out shop...

- ----------
> From: Deacon
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: Cleaning out shop...
> Date: Monday, March 30, 1998 11:14 AM
>
> You know Gary, a flow bench would be quite useful building that race
> car! There's room in the garage now! :) Build your wife a car port to
> park her car. After all, cars were meant to be outdoors. Tools were
> meant to be indoors! (Tim Allen grunts would be here if I knew how to
> spell them) :)
> Later!
>

I believe it's R...R...R...

FTC: Gary may be sleeping in his Bronco if he takes your advice Deacon!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 11:46:19 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Was: Re: Whiter whites, Brighter brights.. the website. NOW: Tech Articles

Guys,
I would love to collaborate on an article on the ammeter. I have just
submitted an article on 73-79 interval wiper installation for Ken's
consideration. When I get time I will be working on an article to
retrofit a cruise control system on 73-79 trucks. Something that I
think would be a great addition to the list would be a table of all
critical torque specs for the various Ford engines. How about a page
with time saving tips for working on our trucks? (Like the hydraulic
pilot bearing removal tip). Just ideas for someone to run with. :0).

Let me know if I can help on any projects.

Tom H.



Thanks Ken!
Steve did the wiring diagrams and the text (The hard part) and I
designed the page (The easy part). Dana had a hand in it too. This time
Dana was quality control (The part no one wants to do, but needs to be
done). Thanks Dana, It's cool having someone pickup the mistakes before
going public.
Working with Steve and Dana on this project was fun. I would enjoy
doing other projects with these guys! With a little encouragement from
others we may be able to talk them into it!

1) Ammeter repair for the Ford phantom ammeter

2) Duraspark upgrade

3) Intermediate windshield wiper switch

Just to name a few.

As Steve said, I too would love to see a link on FTE site. It would
be the icing on the cake! Thanks Ken!


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:52:20 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Cleaning out shop...

i have a similiar model (100 i think, it is in storage for last 4 yrs.)
too bad it doesn't flow enough for a 460 head! it works real good on
small engines though like 1100cc.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Monday, March 30, 1998 9:25 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: Cleaning out shop...

> Date: Sat, 28 Mar 1998 18:55:09 -0800 (PST)
> From: Steve & Rockette
> Subject: Re: Cleaning out shop...

> >Superflow Flow Bench Mdl. 110 Low total hours, including the
> >Manual. FOB Portland, Oregon

I thought this was a joke?? Is someone really trying to sell a flow
bench?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:20:28 CST
From: "Harry Jennings"
Subject: Re: Screens, flames, and such.

>Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 07:48:42 -0800
>From: "Robert Harris"
>Subject: Screen Stupidity
>
>Letz zee heeer, you got no respect for a man who has contributed a
lifetime
>of achievement at the big ovals including the brickyard, a man who has
built
>and influenced engines and cars even to this day, who has helped more
Sunday
>Afternoon races than you've been alive to witness.

You forgot the man who has only endorsed PROLONG!

>Guess that rules out us
>respecting anyone who has ever endorsed any product ever - right?

Nope, just the ones that endorse PROLONG!

>Give me a reason why I should respect YOU??? Who da explecitive
deleted do
>you imagine yourself to be?

Calm down, guy! First off, I never asked for your respect. However, on
this list I wish you would not show such disrespect. Who do you imagine
YOURSELF to be?

>Simple, gullible you believes something because its in a catalogue??
Summit

Well, *I* did not bring up Summit. Two others ot this list did. Do you
plan on flaming them, too?

As a matter of fact I never said these damn screens work!!! All I said
is that they *MAY* work. Then I gave the reasons why. I am glad to soo
you have an open mind about this.


>And a deliberate restriction works to make more low end power? Hey,
dipwad,
>does that mean if I stuff a potato in my tail pipe, I'll really make
power?
>Darn - that means the millions we all have spent on free flowing
mufflers
>and headers has been in vain, cause HARRY says that more restriction
makes
>more power for our trucks? Speed secret here kiddies - pull the choke
on
>and get more torque - it richens the mixture and puts more restriction
in
>the intake too!!! waad da heck - pull off dat four barrel and go down
and
>get a single throat off a falcon 6 - it'll really make low end torque -
>breathing thru a pea hole.

Hey dipwad, read up! It is common knowledge that a smaller carb WILL
make more low-end torque than one that is too big! It is also common
knowledge that smaller primary tube headers are better for low end
torque than large primary tubes. You wanna talk cams? A big high lift
long duration cam offers much less restriction than a smaller cam (yes
restriction). However, must of us know that a really big cam can kill
low-end torque!

I would like to tell you where you can sick that potato!

>
>BTW, I'll stack Heywood, Grumpy, Smokey, Vizard etc. against Car Craft,
Hot
>Stuff, Harry and whatever any day. They don't advertise on page 97
what
>they review in chapter four - but magazines would never huckster for
their
>advertisers would they?

Once again, *I* am not the one who said the screen work nor am I the one
ho said they are in Summit.

>
>The moral of this - simple. If you haven't seen it used and unless its
as
>new as the latest white house bimbo story, there is probably a reason -
and
>generally its because it doesn't work.

Well, I said I saw on article that said they work. But I also pointed
out that I have not seen anything since. However, you say that because
no engine builder YOU know of has tested them they don't work!? There is
that open mind again!

GROW UP AND GET A HOBBY!

Harry.




______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:37:04 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Screens, flames, and such.

>You forgot the man who has only endorsed PROLONG!
>
>Nope, just the ones that endorse PROLONG!
>
>>Give me a reason why I should respect YOU??? Who da explecitive
>deleted do
>>you imagine yourself to be?
>
>Calm down, guy! First off, I never asked for your respect. However, on
>this list I wish you would not show such disrespect. Who do you imagine
>YOURSELF to be?
>
>>Simple, gullible you believes something because its in a catalogue??
>Summit
>
>Well, *I* did not bring up Summit. Two others ot this list did. Do you
>plan on flaming them, too?
>
>As a matter of fact I never said these damn screens work!!! All I said
>is that they *MAY* work. Then I gave the reasons why. I am glad to soo
>you have an open mind about this.
>snip>

Children, children, children. Can't we all just get along? If you want to
buy the gaskets, buy the gaskets. If you don't then don't. One thing
people need to get straight on is that opinions are like a**holes,
everybody has one.

Get over it people.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:33:28 -0600
From: "Arnold Gladwell"
Subject: Re: Bed time (floor replacement)

I would practically soak the word in waterproofer BEFORE anything else. The
wood is going to exposed by all sides. If water gets trapped between wood
and the metal it will rot.

Arnold


- -----Original Message-----
From: Gillespie, John D.
To: 'fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net'
Date: Monday, March 30, 1998 12:38 PM
Subject: RE: Bed time (floor replacement)


>Steve I agree with either the Spar Varnish or maybe linseed oil. The
>only thing about linseed is that you would probably have to re-coat it
>one a year.
>
> What should I do to protect the oak? I'm undecided whether to
>paint
> the wood with a plastic "Varathane" type coating, or to just
>use some
> kind of oil on the wood to waterproof it.
> Anyone got some thoughts for me on this one?
>
>
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:26:09 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: 2100/2150 carbs

Yo Dudes:

Finally got to tear into that new Motorcraft 2150 2V carb this weekend. At
first glance, it looks pretty much like any other garden variety 2150 carb,
but when you look a little closer, there are a lot of differences. I'd
like to hear from anybody who might be familiar w/ the details of
Autoite/Motorcraft 2100/2150 carbs to help me understand how this thing
works and what I am doing???

This new carb is E2ZE-BAA from a 1982 Mustang GT (the first year of the new
GTs and only year equipped w/ a 2V carb). I'm comparing it to my E0TE-BSA
truck carb which came on the 351M in my 1980 F250.

The biggest difference between my truck carb and this Mustang unit is the
metering rods and yoke on the booster venturis in the Mustang carb. The
yoke is moved up and down by a cam on the throttle shaft between the
venturi bores. The yoke moves two metering rods up and down in the booster
venturi assembly. What do these metering rods do? Do they allow for a
variable metering system, where my truck carb w/ no rods has a fixed
metering system?

Here are the other differences I found:

Hot idle compensator -- a little bi-metallic valve just behind the air horn
on the right side. When the air temp warms up, it allows extra air into
the manifold from the base of the carb, below the venturis, apparently
leaning out the idle mixture. My truck carb does not have this device.

Power (enrichment) valve -- Mustang carb has no external vacuum connection
on the power valve cover. The only apparent vacuum source for the power
valve seems to be a passage on the bottom of the carb. On my truck carb,
the power valve cover has a nipple (port) for a vacuum connection. A
vacuum hose goes directly from the intake manifold to this port on the
bottom front of the carb.

Threaded fuel inlet -- my truck carb has a nipple for 3/8" fuel hose in the
same location. This would allow it to take the same type of screw-in fuel
filter that the 4V (Holley) carbs do.

Main jets -- my truck carb has #53 main jet orifices, the Mustang unit has
#58 orifices (much bigger). Could this be related to the metering rods?

Vacuum port on rear main body -- Mustang carb has a vacuum port on the rear....


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