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Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 20:17:09 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #184
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fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, March 26 1998 Volume 02 : Number 184



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights! ["Hogan, Tom"
63 F100 [Dan Koster ]
Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights! [Mike Schwall ]
Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights! [Mike Schwall ]
electronics and lights [Serian ]
2100/2150 carbs ["Dave Resch" ]
Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights! ["Dave Resch" ]
Re: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders ??? [George Herpich
'73 1/2 ton 390 ["JONATHAN RICHARD BUCK" ]
power braking [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders ??? [Stu Varner
Re: 2100/2150 carbs [Stu Varner ]
Overdrive for NP435-Dana 24 65 F250 ["Chris Samuel"
Re: electronics and lights [Don Grossman ]
Was rear axle ratios now top loaders, FT V2 #183 [Alan Mittelstaedt / Cha]
Intake manifold cooling, FTV2 #178 [Alan Mittelstaedt / Chad Dailey
Dual percolating carbs, FTV2 #182 [Alan Mittelstaedt / Chad Dailey
MSD ignitions for my 78 400 ["Chris Samuel" ]
Re: percolating carb [Don Grossman ]
Re: please help solve a debate [ROSITCH SSRL.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU]
Re: Ignition Timing change req'd w/valve timing chng? [danadeb pacbell.ne]
Re: Autolite 4100 [danadeb pacbell.net]
Question for 68 Owners [Joe DeLaurentis ]
Re: Timing Retard [danadeb pacbell.net]
Yay Ken. was screen intake gaskets ["Chris Samuel"
Re: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders ??? [Steve & Rockette
Re: '73 1/2 ton 390 [Steve & Rockette ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 13:43:39 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights!

Kudos to Steve,

I've been thinking about the same modification. Steve, what does the
connector to the head lights look like? Did you use the stock 3 pole
connector?

Don, use a diode. A capacitor will block DC in either direction after
it is fully charged. What will happen is the low beams will come on for
a short time depending ont he charging constant of the capacitor. When
fully charged the lows will go out. Connect the diode to allow forward
current from the high beam circuit to power the low beams. When the low
beams are selected the diode will block the current to the high beams.
Question, would the extra heat from having both elements on at the same
time burn the lamp out quicker?

Good luck,
Tom H.


=======================================================
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 11:04:47 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights!

Way to go Steve.

I just put in halogen bulbs a while back and they made a little
difference.

I was thinking of taking it one step further. Since my truck is going
to see more and more off road as the years go by I wanted to put in a
diode or some such piece to allow the low side to be on and when I hit
the Hi there beams It would also keep the lows lit.

Should I go diode or capacitor?

Thanky

Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

- ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 13:44:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Koster
Subject: 63 F100

Steve,

I noticed you posted having a 63 F100. I've been on the lookout for
others that have the same truck I do. Is yours a Unibody as well?

I'm also trying to gather data on what axles were offered that year.
What's yours? What was the original engine, and what's in it now?

Let me know.

Dan




- ---Steve & Rockette wrote:
>
>
> >My opinions on engine use to purpose.
> >289/302
> >Makes a fine light duty commuter engine, but will suffer if asked
to pull a
> >lot of weight for extended periods. Light internals give it less
compression
> >braking ability than might be needed for towing. Put one in a
Ranger or
> >Bronco II or a short F-100.
>
>
> My poor old '57 had a 289 in it, for 12 years, no rebuilds, many
> modifications.
> Did you know a '57 F100 weighs close to 4000 lbs? It was a short
bed style
> side. It ran 14 seconds flat in the 1/4, and saw the other side of
the 100
> on the
> speedometer on a number of occasions, Scared the hell out of the C*evy
> crowd in my neighborhood, and beat quite a few big block trucks on a
> regular basis. It was a "little" down on torque, but had gobs of
ponies
> once it started spinning the tach. It came up on the cam at about
2800 rpm,
> Then the Q-Jet's secondaries opened, slight bog, then !WOO HOO! we
> gettin' someplace in a hurry!!!
>
> When the little pr*ck that stole/wrecked it gets out of the can,
I'll be
> waiting
> with the "Axe Handle Of Awareness". To break his other leg. Just
kidding.....
>
> Maybe..........
>
> Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
> '63 F100 Longbox
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979
- --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net,
|
> | List removal information is on the web site.
|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- ----------+
>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 16:00:54 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights!

At 11:04 AM 3/26/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Way to go Steve.
>
> I just put in halogen bulbs a while back and they made a little
>difference.
>
>I was thinking of taking it one step further. Since my truck is going
>to see more and more off road as the years go by I wanted to put in a
>diode or some such piece to allow the low side to be on and when I hit
>the Hi there beams It would also keep the lows lit.
>
>Should I go diode or capacitor?

I don't see how a diode or cap can be used like that. Use a relay, a SPDT
or SPST relay. Wire the coil on the relay in parralel with the high beams.
(connect one side of the relay coil to the hot wire going to the high beams
and the other side to ground) Then connect the relay using the normally
open contacts to both low beams and a +12V source. That way when you hit
the highbeams, it will energize the relay and turn the low beams on. Don't
run the coil on the relay in series with the high beams or it will melt the
coil.

If you need more details I can draw up a diagram.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 16:05:39 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights!

At 01:43 PM 3/26/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Kudos to Steve,
>
>I've been thinking about the same modification. Steve, what does the
>connector to the head lights look like? Did you use the stock 3 pole
>connector?
>
>Don, use a diode. A capacitor will block DC in either direction after
>it is fully charged. What will happen is the low beams will come on for
>a short time depending ont he charging constant of the capacitor. When
>fully charged the lows will go out. Connect the diode to allow forward
>current from the high beam circuit to power the low beams. When the low
>beams are selected the diode will block the current to the high beams.
>Question, would the extra heat from having both elements on at the same
>time burn the lamp out quicker?
>
>Good luck,
>Tom H.

Ahh, now I see. Yeah the diode is much simpler and cheaper.

Dohh :)

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 21:11:26 -0500
From: Serian
Subject: electronics and lights

Don asked :
>I was thinking of taking it one step further. Since my truck is going
>to see more and more off road as the years go by I wanted to put in a
>diode or some such piece to allow the low side to be on and when I hit
>the Hi there beams It would also keep the lows lit.
>
>Should I go diode or capacitor?

I am guessing that you are looking to wire the low beam filament in
parallel with the high beam filament in this case.
You dont want a capacitor for this ... capacitors block DC current
but allow AC current. Use a diode capable of taking quite a bit of
current ... perhaps one rated 24V/35A or so to be absolutely certain
that it stays cool under stress.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 15:28:08 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: 2100/2150 carbs

>From: pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)
>Subject: Re: Autolite 4100
>
>There were two sizes of 4100 built (actually three
>but one is rare). Autolite carbs have a "clock face"
>casting mark cast into the front bowl on the right side
>just under the accelerator pump rod. In the center of
>this "clock face" is the venturi size.
>
>The venturi sizes are:
>
>1.08=480 CFM
>1.12=600 CFM
>1.19=670 CFM (this size was only made in 1958)

Yo Dudes:

The same is true of the Autolite/Motorcraft 2V carbs. A casting mark
identifies the venturi size. Most 2100/2150 2V carbs have either the 1.08"
or 1.12" venturi.

Stu Varner turned me on to the idea of using a Motorcraft 2150 2V carb from
a 1982 Mustang GT. It is purported to be rated at 369 cfm (vs 300-325 or
so for the standard 2150). Last night, I took a look at the casting mark
on the Mustang carb and it says 1.21" venturi size! The original 2150 on
my truck has the 1.12" venturis.

Anyway, I'm thinking of retrofitting this baby to my 351M w/ stock 2V
manifold and see if it helps (mileage and/or power, but especially power!).
BTW: It came w/ a 0.5" phenolic spacer.

Anyone else out there know anything about these Mustang GT 2V carbs ( part#
E2ZE-BAA)?

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 15:41:33 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights!

>From: Don Grossman
>Subject: Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights!
>
>I was thinking of taking it one step further. Since my
>truck is going to see more and more off road as the
>years go by I wanted to put in a diode or some such
>piece to allow the low side to be on and when I hit
>the Hi there beams It would also keep the lows lit.

Yo Don:

I had that idea too, but I have heard that keeping both high and low beam
filaments lit simultaneously for any length of time will severely shorten
the life of the headlamp.

Instead, you can try looking for a headlight w/ 55 watt low beam (max DOT
legal) and a high beam w/ more than 65 watts (max DOT legal). I have seen
some "off road" lights w/ 65 watt low beams and 100 watt high beams and
even 85 watt low beams and 120 watt high beams, but the ideal would be 55
watt low beams and 100-or-so watt high beams. That way, you'd be street
legal w/ low beams anyway.

BTW: I rigged up a momentary switch beside the instrument cluster (turned
on only when you push it) to turn on high beams independently of low beams.
I use it for flash-to-pass on the highway. Since it's independent of the
low beams, it works day or night (as long as the high beams aren't already
on). Lets me flash a lot quicker than I could w/ the little foot switch.
I can also use it for short periods as a low&high beam supplement, should
the need arise.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 18:06:28 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders ???

A "top loader" is a Ford T&C trans. It was nicknamed "Top Loader" because of the top
cover plate that gives access to everything inside unlike most car trans's where
you remove the side cover with shift arms to service it. I guess somewhere along the
line truck guys adapted the name for their trans's which have the shifter going
straight into the top of the trans and are also serviced through the top. There are
no similarities between the two. The T&C (transmission and chassis) four speed came
out in '64 and was used at first in high performance applications. The 390 galaxies
still had T10s. The 271 hp Mustangs had toploaders. In '67, I believe, all 390's got
toploaders. There were two versions. one had the standard 1 1/16 main drive and the
hd one had 1 3/8. This was often called the Nascar trans. There were also close and
wide ratios. Something like 2.20 an 2.54. In '79 or so Ford converted it to the
srod, single rail over drive, which was a three speed od and lighter duty. It had a
single rod shift linkage.
This is off the top of my head so don't hold me to details too much:-). They are
probably the best production performance four speed ever built. That's why everyone
uses it as the basis of these after market trans's. I think you would have a real
hard time breaking one with anything less than 500hp and a lot of abuse(power
shifting, badly). The Jerico would be way overkill and aren't they basically crash
boxes?
George
Stu Varner wrote:

> >Jerico's are $3100 and they do break. What tranny is this anyway, a
> >ford, stock of some vintage? They had some back in the 60's that
> >worked pretty well but I don't have a clue what the make or model
> >numbers are, does anyone?
> >
>
> Just out of curiosity, how streetable are Jerico trannies?? Say instead of a
> standard car or truck toploader trans, what about going with the 4 speed Jerico
> in place of NP 435 in a "street rod" type 2 wheel drive truck application??
> (something I aim to do after the 4x4) I know the Winston Cup guys and
> straight line guys use Jerico's and they say they are virtually bullet proof
> but, just how streetable could one be made to be? 2,000 miles cross
> country trips?
> Any ideas or do I need to go the Fordnatics list and ask this Q.
>
> Stu
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 17:31:08 -0600
From: "JONATHAN RICHARD BUCK"
Subject: '73 1/2 ton 390

I have a lead on what I've been told is a 73" 1/2 ton "camper
special". First of all, is there such a thing as a 1/2 ton camper
special, and if so, what advantages would there be beside the
obvious. He said it has a high performance 390 but as far as I could
tell the only thing high performance about is that its a 4v, could it
have bigger valves and stuff? What about the rear end, what gears
would it have and could it be a limited-slip? He claims it doesn't
have much rust.
I already have a good 390 but I could use another, but I am mainly
just looking for parts for my '73 F-100.
He's only want's $800 for the whole truck, I probably won't cosider
it if there aren't any usable parts besides the drive train, is it
worth it, I think he's a little full of it, but I have'nt seen it
yet, will probably look at it this weekend, and tips or information
would be appreciated!!
Thanks,
Frank

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 18:40:16 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: power braking

Someone writes: >>K I have a 69 F100 2wd with a ford 9in rear end
with 3.50 gears axle code 08. Why when I power brake it does the
driverside spin insted of the passenger side like normal?? It doesn't
matter what surface its on it still does it that way and once in a wh
ile both will go

Probably cause the left side wheel cylinder is partially froze up or
the shoe is warn more and the drum has been turned to the max and there
is no travel left for the shoes to make a good hard contact. Right side
is definately getting more braking than the left.

JMOH

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 19:50:56 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders ???

At 06:06 PM 3/26/98 -0500, you wrote:
>A "top loader" is a Ford T&C trans. It was nicknamed "Top Loader" because
of the top
>cover plate that gives access to everything inside unlike most car trans's
where
>you remove the side cover with shift arms to service it. I guess somewhere
along the
>line truck guys adapted the name for their trans's which have the shifter going
>straight into the top of the trans and are also serviced through the top.

george, Thanks for the insght, I learn something new more than once per day.
Keep up the informative help. I think a true "Galaxie" type toploader in a
truck (2 wheel drive) would be a neat way of getting a 4 speed and an FE.
What do you think?
Just gathering ideas for the next project! Can't start too soon. Can I?
Stu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 19:57:49 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: 2100/2150 carbs

>Yo Dudes:
>
>The same is true of the Autolite/Motorcraft 2V carbs. A casting mark
>identifies the venturi size. Most 2100/2150 2V carbs have either the 1.08"
>or 1.12" venturi.
>
>Stu Varner turned me on to the idea of using a Motorcraft 2150 2V carb from
>a 1982 Mustang GT. It is purported to be rated at 369 cfm (vs 300-325 or
>so for the standard 2150). Last night, I took a look at the casting mark
>on the Mustang carb and it says 1.21" venturi size! The original 2150 on
>my truck has the 1.12" venturis.
>
Now Daver, You know I cannot take full credit for that. It was an idea
passed along to me by some knowledgable Ford gurus who I happen know. I
guess everyone gets 5 seconds of fame,(NOT FLAME)
that is until it doesn't do squat on your whimpy modified engine that is on
a breathing
apparatus , ie Life support (emissions control, smog police)
he he he
I told you I would deal with the FE bashing!! Smile Daver!
;O)

Stu
Ban Nukes!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 18:02:02 -0800
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: Overdrive for NP435-Dana 24 65 F250

Check W/ Advance Adapters. I think that they have a Ranger(SP?) O/D that
will bolt in front of your trans. It is just a two speed gearbox: 1:1 and
+20%(?) over. I think that they also built the unit as an underdrive (-20%?)
also. I'll know more when their catalog arrives as I am thinking about one
infront of my T-18. They are on the Web if your in a hurry.
Chris
79 Bronco


Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 02:06:21 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: Overdrive for NP435-Dana 24 65 F250

My truck has 4.56 gears and 31.50 in tires(supposed to be 33's) with a
NP435,and Dana 24 T-case. It turns close to 3000 rpms at 60 mph and blows
out oil through the breather(filler) cap. Does anyone know of an overdrive
say 20% that would cut it on an F250, and not require much more than a
shorter driveline and switch? I hate to change gears, because everything is
original except the engine. I don't drive on the highway alot, but the
capability would be worth the effort if I don't have to butcher anything.


Ballinger
Preferred Company
ballingr ldd.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 18:33:05 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: electronics and lights

Serian wrote:

> I am guessing that you are looking to wire the low beam filament in
> parallel with the high beam filament in this case.
> You dont want a capacitor for this ... capacitors block DC current
> but allow AC current. Use a diode capable of taking quite a bit of
> current ... perhaps one rated 24V/35A or so to be absolutely certain
> that it stays cool under stress.
>

Thanks.

If I use Steve's relays (don't look under your hood Steve), the diode will
only have to deal with the current needed to switch the relay. I was a
little confused about the capacitor thing but have that straightned out
now ;)

Bye

Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 20:12:51 -0800
From: Alan Mittelstaedt / Chad Dailey
Subject: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders, FT V2 #183

Stu--

According to my uncle who ran one for a while in his drag racer, street
work would be no problem at all. He says the big deal would be going
deaf or crazy--gear noise is very LOUD.

Chad

> Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 12:17:57 -0600 (CST)
> From: Stu Varner
> Subject: Re: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders ???
>
> >Jerico's are $3100 and they do break. What tranny is this anyway, a
> >ford, stock of some vintage? They had some back in the 60's that
> >worked pretty well but I don't have a clue what the make or model
> >numbers are, does anyone?
> >
> Just out of curiosity, how streetable are Jerico trannies?? Say instead of a
> standard car or truck toploader trans, what about going with the 4 speed Jerico
> in place of NP 435 in a "street rod" type 2 wheel drive truck application??
> (something I aim to do after the 4x4) I know the Winston Cup guys and
> straight line guys use Jerico's and they say they are virtually bullet proof
> but, just how streetable could one be made to be? 2,000 miles cross
> country trips?
> Any ideas or do I need to go the Fordnatics list and ask this Q.
>
> Stu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 20:12:03 -0800
From: Alan Mittelstaedt / Chad Dailey
Subject: Intake manifold cooling, FTV2 #178

Here I am, late again...

> Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:56:02 -0500
> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: Intake manifold cooling, FT V2 #175
>
> that is one concern i have, and the floor is not mirror smooth, but not too rough either. no grooves in it like stock intakes.

Is it a pretty much open plenum? Could you build up the floor a bit to
slope at the runners (like a little pyramid in the middle) and then use
a carb spacer to make up for the lost plenum volume? My thought is to
reduce the area of port floor that is perpendicular to the air column,
keeping velocity more constant through the cross-section of the plenum.
That would get rid of the lazy area of the plenum, would it not? Hence,
keep the fuel in somewhat better suspension? Just my SWAG.

> mixture qualty is something that may be hard to control anyway, and even harder if too cold. but, how cool would it get? i wonder?

Does the manifold have an open valley? You might try packing it with
dry ice under / around the runners. That ought to get it mighty cold.
If you did this I'd *heat* the fuel so it'd vaporize better, but richen
up the mix for the very cold air it would be getting. I think it would
be very difficult to tune, as the air mass would be changing density as
it entered the manifold, to who knows what delta from ambient.

Chad

- --
No good deed goes unpunished.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 20:12:41 -0800
From: Alan Mittelstaedt / Chad Dailey
Subject: Dual percolating carbs, FTV2 #182

> Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 00:23:35 -0500
> From: DC Beatty
> Subject: percolating carb

..snip..

> start it there are no starting problems. I think my carb is boiling the g=
> as
> as it has been pretty warm here lately and it seems to coincide with the
> problem. Is there anything I can do to stop this? It's getting annoying.
>
> It's a Motorcraft 2100 (I think) 2V with a manual choke on a 352. Judging=
>
> by the temp. gauge the motor isn't unduly hot. Any suggestions would be
> appreciated. =

> Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 21:50:24 -0800
> From: Don Grossman
> Subject: Re: percolating carb

..snip..

> Hey, I have had the same problem with my recently departed Holly and the new
> and shinny Edelbrock. Almost the exact same problem. If I restart within
> about 2 minutes, no problem. 10-30 crank like "mad". Anylonger than that and
> no problem. And Drew is right, it is getting annoying.

OK, late again, echoing Colorado Jeff and Gary here. Try locating a
heat shield for your carb. It mounts between the carb and manifold.
You can make one out of sheet metal. Should extend about 4-5 inches
from any edge of the carb. Also, an easier method is to get the router
out, and go to work on a 1/2" thick piece of oak or other hardwood (pine
tends to feed sap to your engine and crack). Trace the bottom of the
carb, cut the necessary holes, drill it for the stud pattern, and
voila! A heat insulator! Or, buy the phenolic piece.

Chad

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 18:30:22 -0800
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: MSD ignitions for my 78 400

Art.
I ran the MSD box on my 79 Bronco with both the 351 & 400M engine. The box
is not hard to wire up. I bolted mine to the D/Side wheel well, and simply
tapped into the wiring harness at the junction points, I had to run some new
wires out to the coil as the squirrel that owned the truck before me had
chewed up the wiring. I only failed 3 MSD boxes, but that is because: A.
don't get them damp!, B. Don't shake them hard!, and C. Don't get them wet!
If you wheel hard get the vibration damper kit that MSD sells or get the box
that comes with them. If you ever have water breaking over the hood expect
the box to fail, unless MSD addressed this issue(?); consider installing the
box in the cab! After I killed the third unit I switched to the Crane Hi-6;
but don't have enough time with it to draw a conclusion. I do have a MSD
unit that I have been using on the street for the last 15 years, so...
Make a difference at idle and at low RPM's, allowed me to pass the smog
test! gave about 500RPM to the top end of the stock 351. So I conclude that
they work OK.

Chris
79 Bronco

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 17:34:52 -0800
From: "art Lutz"
Subject: Ignition

I have been looking at the MSD ignitions for my 78 400. I am using the
duraspark right now. Has anybody put one on their 400? Was there a
noticable difference between the two? Also I was wondering how much of a
pain they are to hook up, and if they will help with my pinging.
SNIP

78 F-250 XLT 400
Maybe someday my dads 69 F-250 360 FE

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 18:49:10 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: percolating carb

What about this for a solve

Install an electric fuel pump on the frame and run up the firewall to
the carb?

That is one of the things that have been bugging me for a while now.
Running the line just past the headers up to the pump, behind the P/S
pump, around the air compressor, over the top of the engine and around
to the passenger side to the carb.

So the ? is:

Would an electric fuel pump help solve the problem and are they
reliable?

Don G

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 18:49:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: ROSITCH SSRL.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU
Subject: Re: please help solve a debate

There might be a few years that had both the aluminum tag and the valve
cover sticker, my one owner '68 Mustang 289 had both, my '66 F250 has
just the aluminum tag.

Don Rositch

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 18:59:27 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Ignition Timing change req'd w/valve timing chng?

Dave Resch wrote:
>

> Yo Gregg:
>
> Those degree adjustments in the timing set are based on the position of the
> cam index "button" on the end of the camshaft. The factory retard is
> determined by the placement of that button on the camshaft. The problem is
> that if you install the timing gear at 0 degrees, that's 0 degrees change
> from the original factory spec. Therefore, you probably have not advanced
> the cam from factory spec. Believe me, if you advance it just 2 degrees,
> it makes a noticeable difference!



Only speaking from my own experience on my 460. I installed A roller timing
chain that had multi indexes. I had to rotate the crank a bit to get it to line
up. The factory retarded the timing ( 8 deg I believe) by replacing the cam gear
( if I am not mistaken ) so putting on a non retarded cam gear would set the cam
timing to 0deg. Yes you are not advancing the cam past 0 but you are removing
the retard. I expected to feel something when I did the timing chain thing, but
I think I only advanced it to 4 deg retarded ( from 8, I was concerned that I
might have a Smog Check problem if I went any farther ) maybe not enough to make
a difference.

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 19:04:03 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100

Jon E Purut wrote:

> North Carolina. There is a junk yard I like to go to that is in the
> middle of the boonies. Takes me about two hours to get to but well > worth
> it. The amount of galaxies this guy has is almost as large as the ford
> trucks.



Too far for a weekend drive :-( (California)

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 21:52:46 -0500
From: Joe DeLaurentis
Subject: Question for 68 Owners

Question for all the 68 owners...WE have a debate on where the rearview
mirror was mounted in 68..Some say the windshield other on the visor
mount like the 67's????
I would like to here from the other 68 owners
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 19:09:27 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Timing Retard

sdelanty wrote:
>
> Ummm, why? I've heard 460's ping just as bad as anything else.


Just isn't the case!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 18:52:05 -0800
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: Yay Ken. was screen intake gaskets

WOW! Ken.

Make a positive statement about Carbs, AND a correct yet slightly negative
statement about FI in the full view of the EFI Cult.
Make a truthful statement about the screened gasket concept causing a "Huge
Restriction to air flow.
With only the Truth and Asbestos underwear for a shield!!
So brave, so bright, so right!
Your my hero, even though your not driving for the SCORE Factory Ford Team
for millions and millions! Work on that would ya!

Chris
79 Bronco

Don't want to start a flame war but carbs don't have any problem
atomizing gas completely. The advantage of FI is the metering, not the level
of atomization. IMHO, a screen won't make much difference. If anything,
its a huge air restriction. Get a piece of panty hose (I'm gonna catch hell
for this one) and
blowing through it. Without a doubt, it causes restriction.
I'm of the opinion, that if it really doesn't cost any more,
then why didn't auto makers put them in? Heck, it would be
"free" mpg, hp, etc.

Asbestos underwear now on...

Ken :-)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 19:16:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Re: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders ???....


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