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Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 13:57:24 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #183
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, March 26 1998 Volume 02 : Number 183



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FE water pump [George Herpich ]
Re: Autolite 4100 [pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)]
65 F-100 engine concerns [Ingeborg Small ]
Re: Autolite 4100 / Timing Retard [james oxley ]
Toploader [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: 16" OR 16.5" [Rab Rawlins ]
Re: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders ??? ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: Autolite 4100 / Timing Retard [Stu Varner
percolating carb [BDIJXS ]
RE: Whiter whites, brighter brights! ["Gillespie, John D."
RE: Ignition [Sleddog ]
Re: 16 or 16.5's? ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: T-18's (Was Rear Axle Ratio) ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: FE water pump ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: percolating carb [Keith Srb ]
Re: Ignition Timing change req'd w/valve timing chng? ["Dave Resch"
Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights. [Lee Craner ]
Re: 16.5's or 16's ["Dave Resch" ]
Percolation [ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)]
Re: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders ??? [Stu Varner
Re: percolating carb ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: dual rear wheels ["JAMES MERLO" ]
Re: power steering ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: dual rear wheels ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights! [Don Grossman ]
Changed to Jerico's [Don Grossman ]
Re: Changed to Jerico's [Stu Varner ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 06:01:37 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: FE water pump

Stu, Fred Jones is, or was, Ford's authorized remanufacturer. It's possible they're
using someone else or that they use more than one but basically I think any rebuilt
you get from the dealer would be of better quality than most you get in the parts
store. I think his operation is based in OK and I believe there is an Orlando FL
plant also. That may be why the So. FL dealers have them.

Stu Varner wrote:

> At 08:47 AM 3/25/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >I've had good luck with Fred Jones rebuilts from Ford. I have not bought one in
> >years and have no idea the price but they're worth it.
>
> George, How might I go about finding Fred Jones and his magical water pump
> rebuilding program? As long as his pumps are good and have somewhat correct
> casting numbers
> for my "resto" I am interested. I'd like to be as authentic as possible
> with a rebuilt pump, not as likely with a new pump, in other words a pump
> with a casting code of D1 or before. Maybe sometimes I can be too much of
> a stickler for details. What a pain I am to myself! No telling how much of
> a pain I am to others. ;o)
> Stu
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 07:45:12 -0500
From: pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 21:13:12 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100 / Timing Retard

Jon E Purut wrote:

> In my experience the best cars to look at for 4100 carbs is the late
50's
> to early 60's Galaxy and Fairlanes. I have seen quite a few in my junk
> yard excursions.


What part of the country are you in?

Dana

North Carolina. There is a junk yard I like to go to that is in the
middle of the boonies. Takes me about two hours to get to but well worth
it. The amount of galaxies this guy has is almost as large as the ford
trucks.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 05:02:41 -0800
From: Ingeborg Small
Subject: 65 F-100 engine concerns

I am considering the purchase of a 65 F-100 L/B with a 352/auto for
general beating around, hauling and possibly some short commuting (6
miles). Besides a leak from the rear-main seal, the truck is in very
sound condition. My questions are about the 352 engine. Will it tow
well? Will it get better than 10 mpg? Can parts be found for it? Or
should I avoid this engine/tranny when looking for a 65/66 F-100?

Thanks, Glenn Small

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 08:15:32 -0800
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100 / Timing Retard

danadeb pacbell.net wrote:
>
> Jon E Purut wrote:
>
> > In my experience the best cars to look at for 4100 carbs is the late 50's
> > to early 60's Galaxy and Fairlanes. I have seen quite a few in my junk
> > yard excursions.
>
What would be on a 1960 T-bird, 352. My dad has one sitting around. Doubt
he'd part with the carb, but he'll never know ;-).


OX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 08:18:53 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Toploader

Steve writes: >>What would it take to bolt one of these to a 390 ????

It is a direct bolt in. Cross member remained in the same place.
Can't remember about the driveshaft. Was introduced in approx '65
behind the 390 & 427. It is opened up from tne top - not the side,
however it seems to me that the shift levers still exited the side and
not the top. I'll try to remember and look next time I'm over at this
friends that still has one.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 06:22:44 -0700
From: Rab Rawlins
Subject: Re: 16" OR 16.5"

I'm running 16's on my 77 crewcab, Dana 60 front end. No problem with clearance
and every major tire man. makes tires for them.

BDIJXS wrote:

> Thanks for the input, I guess I'm kind of leaning to the 16" since I've heard
> now from about 5 people that the 16.5's are slowly being phased out....this
> might be reflected in their higher price. But there was a good question, I
> have the dual-piston brake calipers on the front, with the 16" clear them????
> Anyone???
>
> Thanks Again!
>
> Colorado Jeff
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 08:44:38 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders ???

> Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 19:39:17 -0800 (PST)
> From: Steve & Rockette
> Subject: Re: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders ???

> 6000rpm hole shot? no problem.... NASCAR has used them
> since the beginning of the sixties. You can get one to fit any
> Ford bell housing. And you cant break it , Period.
>
> They run $450 to $750 for rebuilt ones, or $1500 to $2500
> from FMS for new ones.

Jerico's are $3100 and they do break. What tranny is this anyway, a
ford, stock of some vintage? They had some back in the 60's that
worked pretty well but I don't have a clue what the make or model
numbers are, does anyone?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 07:55:25 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100 / Timing Retard

At 08:15 AM 3/26/98 -0800, you wrote:
>danadeb pacbell.net wrote:
>>
>> Jon E Purut wrote:
>>
>> > In my experience the best cars to look at for 4100 carbs is the late 50's
>> > to early 60's Galaxy and Fairlanes. I have seen quite a few in my junk
>> > yard excursions.
>>
>What would be on a 1960 T-bird, 352. My dad has one sitting around. Doubt
>he'd part with the carb, but he'll never know ;-).
>

I would say it is likely to be an autolite 4100. A fella at a salvage yard
a few weeks ago had just finished yanking a 64 thunderchicken 390 FE 375HP
motor to sell complete, it had a hi-po 4100 sittin on top. All this chat
about 4100's Makes me wish I would have picked up a few more before every
truck enthusiast in the world buys them up. :O) Geez, I love this game!

Stu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 09:32:37 EST
From: BDIJXS
Subject: percolating carb

Hey guys,

Just a thought, would one of those plastic carb insulators (there's also other
units I think are called "phenolic" or something like that) help cool it down
a little? I've even seen wooden ones! Looks like you can get anywhere from
about 1/4" thick to 1" thick....

Colorado Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 06:40:51 -0800
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: Whiter whites, brighter brights!

Steve, do you have any wiring diagrams/parts list to go with your new
Whiter lights. Inquiring minds want to know and possibly, coulda,
woulda, will....

John
66 F100 240-I6
82FTD 302AOD
94 Ranger Splash 4.0 (I hate liters

-----Original Message-----
From:sdelanty [SMTP:sdelanty sonic.net]
Sent:Wednesday, March 25, 1998 10:48 PM
To:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject:Whiter whites, brighter brights!

No, I'm not selling laundry soap.
This evening I finished hooking up the relays for my
headlights...
The headlight wiring on my F100 really sucked. The stock wiring
is
only 18 gauge and is *very* long as power has to go from the
battery
into the cab, up to the headlight switch, down to the floor to
the
dimmer switch, and then back out to the headlights. These wires
have
to handle the current of both lights, about 10 amps and 18
gauge is pretty
tiny. On my truck, with the high beams on and 14.2 volts at the
battery
there was only 11.1 volts at the headlight! Over 3 volts lost
in that
crummy wiring and switches... And the switches are fairly new.

I mounted 2 relays (one for high beam and one for low beam) on
the fender
next to the battery and connected the headlights directly to
these relays
with nice short lengths of #14 wire, 1 for each bulb filament.
The other side of the relays are connected to a fuse block on
the fender
and directly to the battery. There's one fuse for high beam and
one for
low beam, so if one burns out You're not totally blind.
The origional headlight wires I disconnected from the lights
and
taped off on the drivers side, and on the pass side I
disconnected them
and then lengthened them to reach the fender where I connected
them to the
coils of the relays. So now, that long #18 wire and the
headlight and dimmer
switch only handle about 1/10 Amp to actuate the relays, and
each bulb has
it's own nice short #14 wire instead of 2 bulbs on a long
skinny #18.
The voltage drop lost in the wiring is now less than 0.2V
instead of 3.1V
and the lights are MUCH brighter!
It's amazing what a difference a couple volts makes in
brightness.
I always wondered why the halogens on the truck never seemed as
bright
as I thought they should be... They're *much* better now.
With some nice 100 watt high beam halogens it would make an
even bigger
difference... (-:


Steve

I love deadlines. I especially like the
whooshing sound they make as they go flying by.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 09:33:42 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Ignition

i do not have a 400, but feel that the difference in a duraspark to an msd
is probobly very small on that motor, unless your current parts are going
bad. (it did make some difference on my 460, but maybe it was all in my
head?)

i can say the MSD instructions are good, and when i called their tech line
they were very helpful and replaced my destributer pickup free of charge
when it crapped out. reason enough for me to give them my business again.

your pinging is most likely not an ignition problem, so new ignition won't
help.

sleddog

- ----------
From: art Lutz[SMTP:pig95 ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 1998 8:34 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Ignition

I have been looking at the MSD ignitions for my 78 400. I am using the
duraspark right now. Has anybody put one on their 400? Was there a
noticable difference between the two? Also I was wondering how much of a
pain they are to hook up, and if they will help with my pinging.


I have been on this list for along time, and would like to thank everyone
for answering the few questions I have posted, I only wish I had the
knowledge to answer some of the questions others ask. But I am learning.
Thanks Art Lutz

78 F-250 XLT 400
Maybe someday my dads 69 F-250 360 FE






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 07:40:21 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: 16 or 16.5's?

Actually my 79 F250 4X4 came stock with 16.5s but I don't know the width
since they were swapped out for mags b4 I got the truck.

- ----------
> From: danadeb pacbell.net
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: 16 or 16.5's?
> Date: Wednesday, March 25, 1998 7:13 PM
>
> someone said that 79(?) F350 4x4 had them?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 07:48:52 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: T-18's (Was Rear Axle Ratio)

Man, do they still do that at Sears Point? I used to go there back in 79 &
80. Used to be able to race anything there on Wednesday night. My buddy had
a 69? F150 with a 360 and manual that we used to take out there. He got it
free from some guy who couldn't figure out why it kept literally blowing
oil filters off the engine. To this day I have never seen a dirtier engine
inside.

- ----------
> From: Pat Brown
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: T-18's (Was Rear Axle Ratio)
> Date: Wednesday, March 25, 1998 8:29 PM
>
> Ahh, the Baylands. I used to hang out there on friday nights at the
> dirt track - buggies and sports sedans. Great fun. But wait Steve -
> There's Sears point on Wednesday nights. I know a few guys who go
> there regularly to race there (cover your eyes Stu!) GM stuff
> in the bracket races.
>
> Pat Brown
> Sebastopol, California

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 08:01:25 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FE water pump

FARs (Ford Authorized Remanufacturers) are not all alike. I've been working
in & around dealers since 1982 and the quality of FARs varies from one part
of the country to another. I know several dealers who have petitioned
FoMoCo to dump their FAR because of the poor quality of the rebuilds they
get. Best way to tell is call your local Ford dealership and ask the
service manager if the FAR he's using takes care of him.

- ----------
> From: George Herpich
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: FE water pump
> Date: Thursday, March 26, 1998 3:01 AM
>
> Stu, Fred Jones is, or was, Ford's authorized remanufacturer. It's
possible they're
> using someone else or that they use more than one but basically I think
any rebuilt
> you get from the dealer would be of better quality than most you get in
the parts
> store. I think his operation is based in OK and I believe there is an
Orlando FL
> plant also. That may be why the So. FL dealers have them.
>
> Stu Varner wrote:
>
> > At 08:47 AM 3/25/98 -0500, you wrote:
> > >I've had good luck with Fred Jones rebuilts from Ford. I have not
bought one in
> > >years and have no idea the price but they're worth it.
> >
> > George, How might I go about finding Fred Jones and his magical water
pump
> > rebuilding program? As long as his pumps are good and have somewhat
correct
> > casting numbers
> > for my "resto" I am interested. I'd like to be as authentic as
possible
> > with a rebuilt pump, not as likely with a new pump, in other words a
pump
> > with a casting code of D1 or before. Maybe sometimes I can be too
much of
> > a stickler for details. What a pain I am to myself! No telling how
much of
> > a pain I am to others. ;o)
> > Stu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 09:06:55 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: percolating carb

At 09:50 PM 3/25/98 -0800, you wrote:
>
>Hey, I have had the same problem with my recently departed Holly and the new
>and shinny Edelbrock. Almost the exact same problem. If I restart within
>about 2 minutes, no problem. 10-30 crank like "mad". Anylonger than that
and
>no problem. And Drew is right, it is getting annoying.
>
>Don Grossman
>duckdon pacific.net
>

If I remember right, I think Ken had the same problem with his 67. He
wrapped the fuel line with header wrap or something to help keep the fuel
line cooler. That fixed his problem. Since it is starting to warm up here
in AZ I am going to be doing that to my 66 and 74 soon.

Later

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner,
Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box Style Side.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 09:01:13 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Ignition Timing change req'd w/valve timing chng?

>From: gpark cymer.com
>Subject: Ignition Timing change req'd w/valve
>timing chng?
>
>The chain kit was one of those that allows changes from
>stock timing. It had a -4, a 0, and a +4. The stock timing
>on this 77 351M was (I believe) -4 degrees. I installed this
>kit at '0' degrees, looking for a little more low end out of this
>motor. It's really didn't seem to help.

Yo Gregg:

Those degree adjustments in the timing set are based on the position of the
cam index "button" on the end of the camshaft. The factory retard is
determined by the placement of that button on the camshaft. The problem is
that if you install the timing gear at 0 degrees, that's 0 degrees change
from the original factory spec. Therefore, you probably have not advanced
the cam from factory spec. Believe me, if you advance it just 2 degrees,
it makes a noticeable difference!

>What I was wondering is if I might be able to tweek my
>ignition timing a little bit now. I have no ping probs, and it' s
>set right now at 12BTDC. If I can do this, what should I look
>for as far as the optimum setting? Which direction should I go?

The old hot rod trick was advancing the ignition up to the point that it
starts pinging when under load (i.e., accelerating). Right now, My 351M is
running w/ 12 BTDC base timing (no vac advance at idle), but I've had to
back way off on the vac advance (counter-clockwise on the adjusting screw)
to prevent some nasty pinging under acceleration using regular gas. So
far, it's doing pretty well, but every now and then, it still wants to ping
at a standing start. I'm afraid I might have to back the vac advance out
even more, or back down on the base timing. BTW: Factory spec for base
timing on these engines is 10 BTDC.

Good luck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 11:07:22 EST
From: Lee Craner
Subject: Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights.

I too am looking towards rewiring the lights, running them off the second
battery and putting in relays. I sure like the idea of fusing each filament
separately. Sure makes sense. Thanks for the idea.

Lee

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 09:19:03 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: 16.5's or 16's

>From: "Michael R. Masse"
>Subject: re: 16.5's or 16's
>
>Does anyone know if the 16's will fit with the dual piston
>calipers?
>
> BDIJXS wrote:
> > Is there any reason go with 16.5" rims over 16" rims?
> > Is it true that 16.5" stuff is beginning to get phased out???
> >
> > Colorado Jeff

Yo Michael & Jeff:

The 16s on my 1980 F250 fit over its dual-piston calipers just fine. Seems
like both 16" and 16.5" were factory original over the years. Not sure
when 16.5s were first offered, but my dad's '67 and '72 F250s both came w/
16x6 (split rim!) wheels. My 1980 F250 came w/ 16x6 wheels, but the 1980
F250 over at Valmont (w/ same weight ratings/axle specs as mine) came w/
16.5s. That 1981 F350 I was looking at came w/ 16.5s. Not sure what the
criteria was, other than what they had a pile of next to the assembly line
that day.

Otherwise, I like the additional safety of the bead seat on 16" wheels.
Even if you don't air-down your tires for off-road adventures, if a tire
blows on the highway, there's a lot more holding the 16" tire on its rim
than there is w/ a 16.5" rim/tire.

It's true that the biggest baddest monster mudder gumbo tires come in 16.5"
and not 16", but now that Ford offers 16" tires as an option on the new
F150s, and continues to use 16" on the new Super Duty trucks, there will be
more and more tread/size options in 16" tires.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 11:13:35 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: Percolation

Don't know if this will help anyone, if the outside temperature is from 40
to 60 degrees, or damp, integral chokes will tend to do this, especially on
pre-emmision applications. The choke spring will pull the choke back down to
fully closed, starting the warm-up cycle over. If it doesn't catch the first
time sometimes it will flood. Holding it to the floor engages the unloader,
which will pull the blade up about the same as the vacuam pull-off. The
problem usually goes away when the temperature is above 60, but will
sometimes linger on rainy days. The only cure is to convince the choke
spring that the engine is warm. I've thought about running a heater hose up
close to it.
The specific problem on your 2100 sounds like a high float level. I'd check
it again, sometimes they will fool you. 2100's are vey sensitive to float
height,but when they are right they stay that way for a while


Ballinger
Preferred Company
ballingr ldd.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 12:17:57 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders ???

>Jerico's are $3100 and they do break. What tranny is this anyway, a
>ford, stock of some vintage? They had some back in the 60's that
>worked pretty well but I don't have a clue what the make or model
>numbers are, does anyone?
>

Just out of curiosity, how streetable are Jerico trannies?? Say instead of a
standard car or truck toploader trans, what about going with the 4 speed Jerico
in place of NP 435 in a "street rod" type 2 wheel drive truck application??
(something I aim to do after the 4x4) I know the Winston Cup guys and
straight line guys use Jerico's and they say they are virtually bullet proof
but, just how streetable could one be made to be? 2,000 miles cross
country trips?
Any ideas or do I need to go the Fordnatics list and ask this Q.

Stu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 13:46:34 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: percolating carb

> Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 09:06:55 -0700
> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: Re: percolating carb

> >Hey, I have had the same problem with my recently departed Holly
> >and the new and shinny Edelbrock. Almost the exact same problem.
> >If I restart within about 2 minutes, no problem. 10-30 crank like
> >"mad". Anylonger than that

> If I remember right, I think Ken had the same problem with his 67.
> He wrapped the fuel line with header wrap or something to help keep

I had a problem with fuel boiling in the line which caused "vapor
lock" not percolation. I solved it by using all rubber line from the
fuel pump in a loop up to the fire wall and back down to the carb.
By doing this I made sure there would always be fuel at the inlet to
the carb no matter what but the rubber line also insulated the fuel a
bit. My current setup in the bronco is steel brake line all the way
but I could modify that very easily to put a standoff tube in front
of the inlet as with the 460 only made of steel 3/8" brake line. So
far is hasn't been a problem with the bronco. Guess the little 400
doesn't make as much heat as the monster 460 :-)

For percolation you need to get a spacer made of phenolic or hard die
rubber to insulate the carb body from the heat of the manifold. Mine
smells of fuel all the time too and I think it may be partly due to
this but haven't had time to really bother with it yet. It still
gets me back and forth to work so my other projects come first.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 12:52:18 -0600
From: "JAMES MERLO"
Subject: Re: dual rear wheels

Deacon,
Thanks for putting in the effort to look. I pulled all 6 wheels off and
found 3 different wheel offsets. 3 of the wheels had 7 3/4" offset, one
had 6 1/4 " offset and 2 had less. I put the 4 with the biggest offset in
the rear and the gap "appeared". I am improperly using the term offset, I
realize, but I don't know the correct term. I measured from the edge of
the wheel to where the lug nuts attach - for example when the rear wheel is
mounted on the truck, measure from the edge of the rim to the surface the
lug nuts touch. Does anybody have a clue where these 6 lug, 7 3/4" 'offset'
wheels can be found 16" diameter. I would be nice to have the same size
wheels.

I was confused, I had always thought all 6 wheels were identical.

Jim

- ----------
> From: Deacon
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: dual rear wheels
> Date: Sunday, March 22, 1998 9:13 PM
>
> From: JAMES MERLO
> >I have a 62 f350 with dual rear wheels. The tires are a mix of 7x16
> and
> >7.5x16. This all matches with the specs for the vehicle. My question
> is
> >that the rear tires rub - in fact, I couldn't get both wheels over the
> lugs
> >when they were fully inflated. Any clues? Is there a spacer that goes
> >between the wheels? I have been sworn to that the wheels are original
> to
> >the vehicle. The wheels are the 6 lug variety.
> >Any ideas?
>
> I just went out and looked at my next door neighbors truck (same as
> yours). There is no spacer between the rims and the outer tire is a
> 7.5x16. there was a good size gap between the two tires. I wonder if
> your rims have been mixed up! Is there a difference between inner and
> outer rear rims and the front rims?
> If there's is something else I can look at that would help, let me
> know.
> Later!
>
> Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
> ========================================
> Truckin' , I'm a goin' home,
> Whoa whoa baby, back where I belong,
> Back home, sit down and patch my bones
> And git back truckin' on.
> ========================================
> Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
>
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 14:59:16 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: power steering

> From: Ractrk002
> Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 21:00:22 EST
> Subject: Re: power steering

> K I have a 69 F100 2wd with a ford 9in rear end with 3.50 gears
> axle code 08. Why when I power brake it does the driverside spin
> insted of the passenger side like normal?? It doesn't matter what
> surface its on it still does it that way and once in a while both
> will go

Any geared rear end will have equal torque delivered to both axles so
the tire with the least traction will break first in ever case.
There is no such thing as a "drive" wheel like the old timers liked
to think. With lockers it's the same except the tight wheel will be
driven by the loose wheel.

You have to adjust your brakes so they grab evenly.


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 15:19:14 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: dual rear wheels

> From: "JAMES MERLO"
> Subject: Re: dual rear wheels
> Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 12:52:18 -0600

> Thanks for putting in the effort to look. I pulled all 6 wheels off
> and found 3 different wheel offsets. 3 of the wheels had 7 3/4"
> offset, one had 6 1/4 " offset and 2 had less. I put the 4 with the

I've never heard of using different back spacing on duals like that?
The ones I'm familiar with were interchangeable AFAIK? It really
makes no sense to have them different, you just split the difference
and make them the same. One of the reasons front ends on dualies
look narrower is due to the reverse back spacing?


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 11:04:47 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights!

Way to go Steve.

I just put in halogen bulbs a while back and they made a little
difference.

I was thinking of taking it one step further. Since my truck is going
to see more and more off road as the years go by I wanted to put in a
diode or some such piece to allow the low side to be on and when I hit
the Hi there beams It would also keep the lows lit.

Should I go diode or capacitor?

Thanky

Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 11:29:20 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Changed to Jerico's

Stu

I don't have any experience with the Jerico transmissions but I would think that a
trany would last as long and the person using it wants it to last. If you drive
with a feather foot and do the required maintenance it should last for ever.

>From what I have heard about the Jerico there are some plusses in it's favor. They
are designed to take the abuse of racing and there are lots of different gearing
options available. If you don't like 2nd gear you can swap them out. 4th gear
will always be 1:1 as far as I know. they look like a cinch to work on, if you can
afford it.

Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 14:57:18 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Changed to Jerico's

>Stu
>
>I don't have any experience with the Jerico transmissions but I would think
that a
>trany would last as long and the person using it wants it to last. If you
drive
>with a feather foot and do the required maintenance it should last for ever.....


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