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Return-Path: Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 03:50:25 -0700 (MST) From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest To: fordtrucks61-79-digest Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #179 Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, March 25 1998 Volume 02 : Number 179 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks61-79-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: Read End Gear Ratio [sdelanty ] Re: Timing Retard [sdelanty ] Vin Decode [pickup65 RE: Check out my site [pickup65 Re: 16 or 16.5's? ["Deacon" ] Re: timing retard [danadeb Re: Timing Retard [danadeb Re: rear axle ratios [sdelanty ] Re: 16 or 16.5's? [danadeb Engine ID Tags [ballingr Re: FE Water Pump [Pat Brown ] Re: need some info [Pat Brown ] Re: Check out my site [Joe DeLaurentis ] ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:49:11 -0800 From: sdelanty Subject: Re: Read End Gear Ratio Keith Srb wrote: >I am going to replace the 240 6 cylinder in my 66 F100 with a "mildly >built" 390. I plan on using this truck for street and strip driving. No >more hauling/towing for this girl. I plan on using the Warner T-18 >Transmission for the time being. > >My question is, right now I have 3.53 gears in the rear end. Will this >ratio work for street/strip use or should I change them to some other >ratio?? If so what ratio?? My '71 F100 w/FE390 and T-18 has a 3.50:1 rear axle. I like it O.K, but if I get a chance I'm going to change it to 3.0:1. I'd like my freeway RPMs to be a bit lower in hopes of a bit more gas mileage. Last year I had access to one of those "dragstrip dyno" programs for a while and I entered all the particulars for my truck and started fooling around a bit. Much to my surprise, it indicated that the best 1/4 mile E.T.'s were to be had with about a 2.80:1 gearset! Part of the improvement was from less wheelspin on launch, and part from being able to run to a higher MPH in second and third gear. The very best indicated times were with about a 3.0:1 gearset and 450 lbs of extra weight on the rear wheels... (FWIW, I weighed my truck last year, totally empty with about 5 gals of gas and got a total weight of 3980lbs, with 2360lbs on the front and 1620lbs on the rear.) I take the numbers from these "dyno" programs with a grain of salt, but they are probably at least in the ball park. IMHO 3.0 gears are probably about the best for a combination of street/strip in a F100 with 390 and the nasty wide T-18 ratios, but the 3.50 gearset isn't too bad. It also depends on what tire diameter You run. Mine are about 29.5"... Steve Though good may come of practice, this primal truth endures; The first time anything is done, it's done by amateurs. -- Art Buck ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:49:14 -0800 From: sdelanty Subject: Re: Timing Retard >> Well, yeah it's simple and cheap but rather a dissapointment for >those >> of us who were hoping to get a few degrees of ign retard on demand at >> the flip of a switch! Harry wrote: >It CAN be done, guys. Just not as simple as you had hoped. I was >looking at some superchargers and I know at least one of them came >with an ignition upgrade kit. This kit used a knock sensor and >automatically retarded the timing. I don't see why you couldn't >put one on any engine. Or maybe there is a way to use on from a >newer truck that uses a knock sensor. I'd like to play with knock sensors, they seem rather interesting. From my understanding, one of the big problems is that knock sensors are "tuned" to work with a particular engine. The frequency of the "knock" sounds are apparently related to bore diameter and combustion temps and some other voodoo and are specific to a particular engine. At higher RPM's it becomes difficult to distinguish the sound of knocking from valve train and general engine noise, and the OEM's go to great lengths to place the sensor in a good location and use some pretty fancy electronics to filter out the non-knock noises. A lot of it is now done by processor to get it all figured out. This subject comes up pretty often on the DIY-EFI list, and there's been a hell of a lot of good info about knock sensors over the last year. It seems like knock sensors are a good thing to help with ign timing management, but unless You've got a big budget to spend on test equipment and development time it's probably a pretty tall order to come up with a working system on an engine that wasn't equipted with one stock... Still, I would like to get a few sensors from the wrecking yard and play with them on the 'scope, if for no other reason than the educational value. I know there's at least a couple other DIY-EFI people on this list, can anyone else add some comments/corrections/enlightenment about knock sensors? They seem like a cool thing if we could get 'em to work right on an FE! (-: Steve Though good may come of practice, this primal truth endures; The first time anything is done, it's done by amateurs. -- Art Buck ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 23:20:48 -0500 From: pickup65 Subject: Vin Decode A list member asked me about the six cylinder engine that is in the F500 I am buying. I do not know anything about it other than the horsepower. Can someone decode the vin for me? It looks like the 240/300 only with the intake/exhaust on the driver side of the engine. Vin: F50JN462578 Color: G Body: 181 Trans: F Axle: 3 Thanks Jon E. Purut Pickup65 JCPurut Visit my site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~JCPurut 1964 F500 (114 HP at 3500 RPM) 1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver 1965 F100 1977 F150 1970 Mustang Fastback 1993 Escort Wagon (wife's car) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:53:27 -0500 From: pickup65 Subject: RE: Check out my site >From: Jon E Purut >>Hey guys. I put a page together on the F500 that I am buying this >>weekend. Check it out and tell me what you think. This is an amateur >>attempt at web authoring so please be gentle but honest. >Good job Jon! I hope no one steals your cool cool cool Ford GIF! I would >never do such a thing! :] That's a truck and a half! What are your plans >for it? >Deacon Blues deconblu Where do you think I got the gif from in the first place. One of the other list members should recognize it from their site. When I fix it up for now I am going to use the truck at my wife's uncle's farm. I need to get the feel for it first. I have never owned a truck that big so I am not sure what other things can be done with it. The main reason I am buying it is the price. The seller wanted $800.00 at first. I was the only one who inquired about it so he cut it to $400.00. He just wanted to get rid of it so he cut it more to $250.00. I just had to have it then. I love a bargain. Jon E. Purut Pickup65 JCPurut Visit my site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~JCPurut 1964 F500 (If I held out longer it would have been free) 1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver 1965 F100 1977 F150 1970 Mustang Fastback 1993 Escort Wagon (wifes car) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:37:30 -0800 From: "Deacon" Subject: Re: 16 or 16.5's? >Since we are on the subject of 16.5 wheels...... > >Does anyone have a set of 16.5 X 9.75 stock wheels you want to sell or trade? > >E-mail private danadeb > >Dana Man, you want some wide wheels! How wide did they come? The wheels Don's getting from me are 16.5 X 8.25. There called "FanJet Racing Wheel by Fenton". That is, if these are the wheels Don's looking for. Deacon Blues deconblu ======================================== Truckin' , I'm a goin' home, Whoa whoa baby, back where I belong, Back home, sit down and patch my bones And git back truckin' on. ======================================== Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/ - -----Original Message----- From: danadeb To: fordtrucks61-79 Date: Tuesday, March 24, 1998 7:43 PM Subject: Re: 16 or 16.5's? >+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ >| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 >| List removal information is on the web site. | >+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:56:44 -0800 From: danadeb Subject: Re: timing retard sdelanty wrote: > > I've also thought about a purely mechanical setup with a screw mechanism > on the body of the distributor so that turning a knob on the dash rotates > a cable (like a speedo cable) that turns the screw and physically moves > the distributor. So many possibilities, so little time... > Ok use locktite on a stud where the dist hold down bolt goes, then use a nylock lock nut on top of the stud but don't tighten it all the way. next install a push-pull cable like a choke and voila adjustable timing. Probably would work best in an all or nothing usage you could vary it but dist rotation might be hard to control. Dana ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:59:19 -0800 From: danadeb Subject: Re: Timing Retard sdelanty wrote: > > > I'd like to play with knock sensors, they seem rather interesting. Why not just install a 460 and not worry about knock! Dana ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 23:02:03 -0800 From: sdelanty Subject: Re: rear axle ratios >> >>Can you shift the T-18 well enough to get down the strip? Most guys >>go for the C-6 for that purpose? >That is a good question, I do not know. That is one of the reasons I want >to stay with the T-18. It will be a challenge to see if I can. Right now >I do not know how hard the racing bug will bite me either. If it bites me >hard enough, then I will switch to the a C-6. My T-18 is dead dog slow to shift, and the ratios pretty well suck. Granny 1'st is usless, so You've got a 3 speed with ratios something like 3.2:1 2nd, 1.7:1 3rd, and 1:1 4th... That's a big wide spread btween gears and You gotta make a bundle 'o torque over a wide range to make it work. If You want to do any serious strip work You'll probably need to score a big-block toploader or go with a C6. The T-18 is a great tranny, very rugged and dependable, but it's a horrible choice for a truck that spends any serious time at the strip. >Something else I should of mentioned, I am planning on putting a lot of >work into the suspension to try and get the truck to launch as hard as >possible off the line. I am not just going to drop in the motor and go >racing. Getting a F100 with a 390 to launch hard is gonna be largely a matter of traction. Move as much weight as possible over the rear axle. Battery, fuel tank, anything else that ain't nailed down... I used to run a lot of 1/4 miles back in the late 70's at the now extinct Baylands raceway in Fremont, Ca., but much of my experiance is with (don't laugh now) a '67 VW bus (15.83 and Kawasaki 2-strokes(KH500) Got to ride in a friends 9.2x second AMX a few times also... God, I miss wednesday and sunday nights at baylands! If I was serious about 1/4 miling my F100 once in a while, I'd go with a C6 and start with the 3.5x rear axle, move all the weight I could to the rear, and do what ever suspension mods it takes to get a pickup to grab some asphalt... Go stomp some ch*vy trucks! Steve I love deadlines. I especially like the whooshing sound they make as they go flying by. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 23:09:59 -0800 From: danadeb Subject: Re: 16 or 16.5's? 33 x 12.5 Need I say More!! Of course I will say more, right now they are on the stock 16.5 x 6.5 No tread in the center tons of tread on the outsides. I have been told that 16.5 x 9.75 was the widest STOCK Ford wheels. I want to be able to use the stock hubcaps! I know Stocton Wheel will widen each stock wheel for about $60.00 plus shipping. but I would need to buy one more wheel to be able to have this done and still drive around. Dana ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 01:06:15 -0600 From: ballingr Subject: Engine ID Tags According to the Mitchell National Service Data manual, the tag under the coil is the Engine I.D. It will have a letter on it somewhere that will key to application and will match the engine I.D. on your data plate. Don't be surprised at the bum dope at the dealership, they're too busy doing head gasket jobs on 3.8 Mustangs at $1200 a pop to think about much else. A question for the four-wheel guys, (sorry for double-dipping here)about my Dana 24 T-case. The front yoke on the T-case has some side to side (or up and down if you prefer)play on it. I figured that it needed tightening, but upon looking at it, I discovered a cotter-pin arrangement. I got the pin out and tightened the nut with an impact, now I can't get a pin back in. There are no torque specs for this flange, so I figured that since most go up to 110 to 120 lbs ft the impact was about right. My brother-in-law who is a really respected mechanic around here says not to be concerned, that the nut can't back off enough to loose the flange from the yoke anyway, and that the play I feel is OK. You can still rock it around about the same as before, does anyone know how much play is acceptable? I have 90wt in it now, but the Ford manual reccomends 50wt, what do you guys run in it? It is quiet in 2H, and has what I percieve as the normal straight-cut gear whine in 4H. A little sweat on it, but no major leaks. Specs on other makes with sister-cases use 80-90wt. 1965 F250 4X4 NP435 FE of unknown origin 1967 F100 390 C-6 1995 Contour 2.0 5-speed Ballinger Preferred Company ballingr ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:02:44 -0800 From: Pat Brown Subject: Re: FE Water Pump Jim Pointer wrote: > Subject: FE water pump [ snip ] > So, since I'm now getting ready > to replace the water pump on my truck (66 F100, 352), are > there any tips, tricks, or gotchas that any kind person on > the list can point out? Thanks... Hi Jim- Well, I've seen a few posts giving good advice, so I'll add my 2 cents- How's your timimg chain? With the water pump off, your about 90% there. Good time to check it and replace, especially if equipped with original nylon gear. Pat Brown, Sebastopol, California (Was Pine Grove, as legend has it, renamed after a huge bar-brawl brought references to the Siege of Sevastopol, Russia. End of OT history lesson :-) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 23:20:00 -0800 From: Pat Brown Subject: Re: need some info roger kubler asked: >Gentlemen, > I am in need of some tech. knowledge. I have recntly >purchased a 1967 Econoline Pick-up. It is in fantastic shape, needing >only cosmetics, inside and out. My query is on how many were produced >in 1967, the last year of these? Roger, I was looking for the same info about my 1970 Crew Cab. At my local library, in the reference section, was a book "Standard Catalog of Light-Duty Trucks". Sorry, I didn't write down the publisher. This book list a ton of info about trucks produced over the years, including VIN decoding, options, prices (in 1970, trucks were generally about $0.75 to $1.00 a pound :-), and production figures. 1970 F-250 production figures are given, along with break-outs for Styleside / Flairside and other options, but unfortunately for me, no further breakdown for crew cabs. I copied only the 1970 Ford section, I see they do give break-outs of econoline production for that year, perhaps you can find this book.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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