Return-Path:
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 21:49:18 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #178
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, March 24 1998 Volume 02 : Number 178



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
fordtrucks61-79-digest-request listservice.net
with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: 16 or 16.5's? [Keith Srb ]
Questions about finding a good 390 engine to rebuild [Keith Srb
Read End Gear Ratio [Keith Srb ]
Re: 16 or 16.5's? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Read End Gear Ratio ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 16 or 16.5's? [james oxley ]
Re: Read End Gear Ratio [Keith Srb ]
Re: 302 update [Mike Schwall ]
Re: Timing Retard [Mike Schwall ]
RE: Read End Gear Ratio [Sleddog ]
Re: I'm doing brakes. [Ken Payne ]
Re: Read End Gear Ratio [Ken Payne ]
IGNITION RETARDERS [Sleddog ]
Re: please help solve a debate [Ken Payne ]
Re: IGNITION RETARDERS ["Bill Beyer" ]
'64 w/400 problems.. FTV2 #176 [Alan Mittelstaedt / Chad Dailey
Intake manifold cooling, FT V2 #175 [Alan Mittelstaedt / Chad Dailey
RE: Intake manifold cooling, FT V2 #175 [Sleddog ]
Re: Intake manifold cooling, FT V2 #175 [John MacNamara
Re: please help solve a debate [Randy Collins ]
Re: '64 w/400 problems.. [A64F100 ]
RE: Read End Gear Ratio [Ken Payne ]
Re: 16 or 16.5's? [Don Grossman ]
Re: '64 w/400 problems.. FTV2 #176 [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: 16 or 16.5's? [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Engine Theory [Steve & Rockette ]
Re: Intercooled Intake [sdelanty ]
Re: duraspark timing retard [sdelanty ]
Re: timing retard [sdelanty ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 14:35:39 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: 16 or 16.5's?

At 04:00 PM 3/24/98 EST, you wrote:
>Is there any reason go with 16.5" rims over 16" rims? Is it true that 16.5"
>stuff is beginning to get phased out???
>
>Colorado Jeff

I put new 16.5's on my 74 a couple of months ago, several people from
several different tire stores told me that 16.5" tire were being phased
out, but I should still be able to get them for several more years. What
they meant by several more years I don't know.

I couldn't afford Tires and rims both, so I bought 16.5" tires and I am
about ready to go buy one more for my spare. I switched from Bias Ply
Tires to Radials, figured I better get a Radial for a spare too.


Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner,
Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box Style Side.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 14:38:15 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Questions about finding a good 390 engine to rebuild

HI Gang.

I am going to start looking for a "good" 390 to rebuild and use to replace
the 240 6 cylinder in my 66 F100.

Other than the obvious things, like trying to find a 4V instead of a 2V
engine. Is there anything I should look for that would help me tell if I
am buying a motor that is capable of being rebuilt. Cracked block or heads
I know I probably won't find until the engine is torn down and at the
machine shop. Are they any external clues I could look for to help
determine the condition of the engine ??

I am going to use this truck for street and strip driving. It's day's of
towing and/or hauling things are over. My 74 F250 is going to handle those
chores now.

Thanks!

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner,
Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box Style Side.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 14:38:45 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Read End Gear Ratio

Hi Gang.

I am going to replace the 240 6 cylinder in my 66 F100 with a "mildly
built" 390. I plan on using this truck for street and strip driving. No
more hauling/towing for this girl. I plan on using the Warner T-18
Transmission for the time being.

My question is, right now I have 3.53 gears in the rear end. Will this
ratio work for street/strip use or should I change them to some other
ratio?? If so what ratio??

Thanks!

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner,
Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box Style Side.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 16:49:27 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 16 or 16.5's?

> From: BDIJXS
> Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 16:00:17 EST
> Subject: 16 or 16.5's?

> Is there any reason go with 16.5" rims over 16" rims? Is it true
> that 16.5" stuff is beginning to get phased out???

I think I got flamed for this once before but AFAIK ford was the only
company that used that size any time in the recent past (since mid
60's) so the selections are not very exciting. All makers have used
the 16" size over the years so the selection is much better.

Technically the 16.5 gives better handling for a larger diameter of
tire due to less side wall but 1/4" less sidewall isn't very
significant IMHO.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 16:55:43 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Read End Gear Ratio

> Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 14:38:45 -0700
> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: Read End Gear Ratio

> driving. No more hauling/towing for this girl. I plan on using the
> Warner T-18 Transmission for the time being.

Can you shift the T-18 well enough to get down the strip? Most guys
go for the C-6 for that purpose?

> My question is, right now I have 3.53 gears in the rear end. Will
> this ratio work for street/strip use or should I change them to some
> other ratio?? If so what ratio??

Depends on what size tires you are going to run and what rpm you want
to clear the trapps at. IOW you will have to find out how well your
new engine will propell the truck and make some adjustments so I'd
give the current gears a try first to get a base line.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 16:57:33 -0800
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: 16 or 16.5's?

Most of the monster mudder offroad tires are still 16.5 or 15", don't
think their gonna change any time soon.

OX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 15:27:50 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: Read End Gear Ratio

At 04:55 PM 3/24/98 +0000, you wrote:
>> Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 14:38:45 -0700
>> From: Keith Srb
>> Subject: Read End Gear Ratio
>
>> driving. No more hauling/towing for this girl. I plan on using the
>> Warner T-18 Transmission for the time being.
>
>Can you shift the T-18 well enough to get down the strip? Most guys
>go for the C-6 for that purpose?

That is a good question, I do not know. That is one of the reasons I want
to stay with the T-18. It will be a challenge to see if I can. Right now
I do not know how hard the racing bug will bite me either. If it bites me
hard enough, then I will switch to the a C-6.

>
>> My question is, right now I have 3.53 gears in the rear end. Will
>> this ratio work for street/strip use or should I change them to some
>> other ratio?? If so what ratio??
>
>Depends on what size tires you are going to run and what rpm you want
>to clear the trapps at. IOW you will have to find out how well your
>new engine will propell the truck and make some adjustments so I'd
>give the current gears a try first to get a base line.

Something else I should of mentioned, I am planning on putting a lot of
work into the suspension to try and get the truck to launch as hard as
possible off the line. I am not just going to drop in the motor and go
racing.



>78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
>78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
>78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
>
>-- Gary --
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>
>
Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner,
Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box Style Side.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 16:38:09 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: 302 update

At 06:56 PM 3/23/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Dana the Pertronix Ignitor does not change anything except that it uses
>a magnetic pickup instead of the points I know this because I had
>installed one on my 240 all I did was replace the points and fire it up.
>I never moved the distributor so I can not understand how the timing
>could have moved although this was the common response so I took your
>advice and fought the distributor after 6 stabs I finally got it this is
>not the problem I still only have a spray of gas from the carb.and an
>occassional pop no fire really at least not constant mostly just popping
>and spraying of gas it's like instead of the fuel being sucked into the
>manifold it is being pushed out I pulled my plugs and they are not gas
>fouled I really don't know where else to look BTW the plugs are gapped
>at .032 Any more ideas?

Does the engine spin freely or does it stop when trying to start it? Looks
like your 302 is trying to run backwards Timing is (way) too far advanced.
Put the points/condensor back in and see if it runs. If it does, your new
electronic gizmo may be bad.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 16:54:54 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Timing Retard

At 01:42 PM 3/24/98 -0600, you wrote:
>
>>Subject: Re: duraspark timing retard
>>
>> Well, yeah it's simple and cheap but rather a dissapointment for
>those
>> of us who were hoping to get a few degrees of ign retard on demand at
>> the flip of a switch!
>> I suppose it was too good to hope for anyway...
>
>It CAN be done, guys. Just not as simple as you had hoped. I was
>looking at some superchargers and I know at least one of them came
>with an ignition upgrade kit. This kit used a knock sensor and
>automatically retarded the timing. I don't see why you couldn't
>put one on any engine. Or maybe there is a way to use on from a
>newer truck that uses a knock sensor.


MSD sells a timing box. It allows you to retard the timing. I think its
geared more toward the forced induction/nitrous crowd. Probably buy one
and reverse engineer the thing and let the list know what's in it. Tom...
where are you Tom? :)

Then again, I could pick the brains of the professors at school and
probably come up with some ideas and if I'm lucky some schematics.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 19:57:09 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Read End Gear Ratio

depends on the engine power curve. but, i imagine a set of 4.10s would work better on the strip

sleddog

- ----------
From: Keith Srb[SMTP:herbie netvalue.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 1998 4:38 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Read End Gear Ratio

Hi Gang.


My question is, right now I have 3.53 gears in the rear end. Will this
ratio work for street/strip use or should I change them to some other
ratio?? If so what ratio??

Thanks!

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:06:37 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: I'm doing brakes.

At 03:50 PM 3/24/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Being mechanically inclined is not the same as knowing what I am doing. So
>I would like to run some brake maintenance by all of you. If any one has a
>suggestion or "watch out" I would appreciate it.
>
>The break fluid is murky and my goal is to replace it completly while
>rebuilding the break system.
>
>Step
>1. Replace rear cylinders. (because I have them.)
>2. Rebuild front cylinders.
>3. Drain all lines. (Is it necessary to blow the lines out with air or
>will drain and flush suffice?)

Drain, flush, use at least one big bottle of fluid to clean it out.
Most air compressors are going to have water in the air, you don't
want condensation forming in the lines.

>4. Replace master cylinder. (it's $11.00 cheap and I understand it can
>hold a rust line that can break loose when bleeding out the lines.)

"bench bleed" first. A lot easier than getting all the air out after
it's installed.

>5. Fill and bleed.
>6. Adjust.
>
>I plan latter on to do the break shoes and drums. I don't feel it necessary
>at this time to convert to disc.
>
>

- -Ken

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:07:41 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Read End Gear Ratio

At 02:38 PM 3/24/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi Gang.
>
>I am going to replace the 240 6 cylinder in my 66 F100 with a "mildly
>built" 390. I plan on using this truck for street and strip driving. No
>more hauling/towing for this girl. I plan on using the Warner T-18
>Transmission for the time being.
>
>My question is, right now I have 3.53 gears in the rear end. Will this
>ratio work for street/strip use or should I change them to some other
>ratio?? If so what ratio??
>
>Thanks!
>
>Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net

Keith,

I'm running 3.25 on my 390. Still has more than enough get up and
go.

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:11:19 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: IGNITION RETARDERS

i saw someone on the list mentio ignition retards that react to engine
detonation. i just found in Summit one from MSD that is not an automatic
retard, but just notifies you of detonation - $140.

also, in cab timing manual adjustment controler - $93

i have seen automatic detonation retard devises, but can't remember where.

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:12:09 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: please help solve a debate

>Return-Path:
>From: owner-fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
>Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 06:58:01 -0700 (MST)
>To: owner-fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
>Subject: BOUNCE fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net: Admin request of type /^\s*get\s+\S+\s*$/i at line 6
forwarded for: Stu Varner
Drew,
I feel confident that my truck's engine (360 2v)was never opened up.
The staples were still on the valve cover gaskets and I know my truck is an
original 85,000 mile truck. Verified with the title and talking to the
original owner.

G*t this:
When I yanked the engine and removed the original yellow/mustard top
(autolite) coil from the engine, right after I removed the original black
(Autolite printed in top ) distributor cap, I found an engine ID tag that I
carefully set aside so when I reassemble the engine I could put it right
back where I found it. Tell your boy at the Ford dealership that he is
either full of doo doo or when they replaced my "rebuilt" engine, they did a
dang good job of making it all look original and factory like!!.
BUT --- I have been known to be wrong!

>Folks, I realize that there is more important stuff than this going across
>this list, but is there anybody out there who used to work for Ford or
>something who can verify that the info stamped on this tag is for new
>engines, not remans? Or am I wrong? Thanks. I think these guys are blowing
>smoke but would like to be able to prove it to them.
>
>For the few list members (like me) who are trying to accurately restore a
>truck to showroom specs, this is vital and very important info!!!!!!! I
>just happen to think the guy at the dealership is full of it!
>My $.02 worth
>
>STU
>No longer Nuking anything! PEACE to all mankind!
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 17:16:37 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: IGNITION RETARDERS

Jacobs also sells a manual in cab timing adjuster called Opto Timer. They
also have one with a special kick down feature.

- ----------
> From: Sleddog
> To: 'fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net'
> Subject: IGNITION RETARDERS
> Date: Tuesday, March 24, 1998 5:11 PM
>
> i saw someone on the list mentio ignition retards that react to engine
> detonation. i just found in Summit one from MSD that is not an automatic

> retard, but just notifies you of detonation - $140.
>
> also, in cab timing manual adjustment controler - $93
>
> i have seen automatic detonation retard devises, but can't remember
where.
>
> sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 19:09:42 -0800
From: Alan Mittelstaedt / Chad Dailey
Subject: '64 w/400 problems.. FTV2 #176

> Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 23:11:42 -0800
> From: danadeb pacbell.net
> Subject: Re: '64 w/400 problems..
>
> A64F100 wrote:
> >
> > The major problem is that the battery keeps going dead, it's brand
> > new so that's not the problem.
>
> To check if something is not turning off or if you have a short, remove one of
> the battery cables and put a volt meter between the cable and the battery
> terminal. If there is a voltage reading, something is on, if no voltage then
> nothing is on. ( even a radio with a clock will give a false reading so
> disconnect any thing that you know stays on before the test )

Don't you mean ammeter? A voltmeter will only show a difference in
potential, not actual current draw.

Chad

- --
No good deed goes unpunished.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 19:09:32 -0800
From: Alan Mittelstaedt / Chad Dailey
Subject: Intake manifold cooling, FT V2 #175

> Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 13:37:48 -0500
> From: Sleddog
> Subject: intake manifold cooling
>
> hello,
>
> i had a brainstorm the other day. tell me if anyone has seen this or
> similiar done. i was considering using the exhaust crossover, heat passage
> in the intake manifold as a cooling area to cool the intake charge instead
> of the stock heating of the charge. i would block off the ends on the
> intake, and run cool water through it recurculating it through an ice
> filled cooler using a pump, or through a small radiater with a fan. it
> would only be for short time periods. (i use this BB for truck pulling
> mainly)

Seems like a valid idea for cooling the intake charge.

> seems almost like a cheap aftercooler. don't really know if it would work.
> any ideas? has anyone tried something like this or seen something like
> this?

It's new to me!

> it is a naturally aspirated 521 using a custom offy P-O-S intake, and no
> nitrous. i will most likely be running turbo blue race fuel which runs
> pretty cool to start with.

My only concern would be a localized cool spot that may condense fuel,
or take it out of suspension, thereby screwing up even mixture across
cylinders. I think you could reduce that problem by roughing up the
plenum floor a bit, though.

Chad

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:56:02 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Intake manifold cooling, FT V2 #175

that is one concern i have, and the floor is not mirror smooth, but not too rough either. no grooves in it like stock intakes.

mixture qualty is something that may be hard to control anyway, and even harder if too cold. but, how cool would it get? i wonder?

sleddog

- ----------
From: Alan Mittelstaedt / Chad Dailey[SMTP:am33009 navix.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 1998 10:09 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Intake manifold cooling, FT V2 #175

My only concern would be a localized cool spot that may condense fuel,
or take it out of suspension, thereby screwing up even mixture across
cylinders. I think you could reduce that problem by roughing up the
plenum floor a bit, though.

Chad





+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 18:00:49 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Intake manifold cooling, FT V2 #175

Sleddog wrote:
>
> that is one concern i have, and the floor is not mirror smooth, but not too rough either. no grooves in it like stock intakes.
>
> mixture qualty is something that may be hard to control anyway, and even harder if too cold. but, how cool would it get? i wonder?
>
> sleddog
>
> ----------
> From: Alan Mittelstaedt / Chad Dailey[SMTP:am33009 navix.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 1998 10:09 PM
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Intake manifold cooling, FT V2 #175
>
> My only concern would be a localized cool spot that may condense fuel,
> or take it out of suspension, thereby screwing up even mixture across
> cylinders. I think you could reduce that problem by roughing up the
> plenum floor a bit, though.
>
> Chad

Has anyone seen those intake gaskets that have the screen in the ports
to break up the fuel charge. Is this just a marketing gimmick or is it
possible that this could work. ?

Thanks
John
78 F250 4X4 Supercab XLT Lariat

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 19:31:32 -0800
From: Randy Collins
Subject: Re: please help solve a debate

G*t this:
When I yanked the engine and removed the original yellow/mustard top
(autolite) coil from the engine, right after I removed the original black
(Autolite printed in top ) distributor cap, I found an engine ID tag that I
carefully set aside so when I reassemble the engine I could put it right
back where I found it. Tell your boy at the Ford dealership that he is
either full of doo doo or when they replaced my "rebuilt" engine, they did
a dang good job of making it all look original and factory like!!. BUT ---
I have been known to be wrong!

Somewhere I read that the ID stickers on the valve covers replace the cool
looking little tags. I think they started the valve cover sticker program
around 1971...maybe it was 1970.


Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford F250 4WD Supercab "Muscle Truck"
460 SUPER COBRA JET
Short Block Completed...Heads Sitting on the work bench!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 21:48:21 EST
From: A64F100
Subject: Re: '64 w/400 problems..

In a message dated 98-03-24 02:07:36 EST, you write:

>

Hey Dana, thanks for the advice. I'll try it ASAP. The engine had the
Duraspark ign. when I got it, but I recently bought a new control module,
coil, and rotor for it, because the old box was barely sparking...

Later,
Scott L

*Keep It Ford Blue*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:12:15 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: RE: Read End Gear Ratio

>Hi Gang.
>
>
>My question is, right now I have 3.53 gears in the rear end. Will this
>ratio work for street/strip use or should I change them to some other
>ratio?? If so what ratio??
>
>Thanks!
>
>Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
>

Ignore my last post about this. I didn't see the word "strip."
3.25 would certainly not be enough for strip. 3.53 would cut
it, 4.11 is better buy you'd pull some high revs on the highway.

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 19:26:18 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: 16 or 16.5's?

BDIJXS wrote:

> Is there any reason go with 16.5" rims over 16" rims? Is it true that 16.5"
> stuff is beginning to get phased out???
>
> Colorado Jeff
>

It depends on what you like. True there is a greater selection of tires for
the 16" rims but there are still lots of 16.5 wheels and tires out there. I
use a 16.5 because I like the old style slot mags and they came in 16.5. The
new popular thing is a 17" wheel. Should you go with that route? I duno.
Find a set of wheel that you like and go with it.

The only draw back is the fact that the 16.5 doesn't have a safty bead for
those low air pressure days.

Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 19:43:44 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: '64 w/400 problems.. FTV2 #176

Alan Mittelstaedt / Chad Dailey wrote:

> Don't you mean ammeter? A voltmeter will only show a difference in
> potential, not actual current draw.
>
> Chad


For the purpose the volt meter will work fine. If nothing is on, there will be
0V, if anything is on there will be more then 0V. A high resistance short might
show 2-5 volts whereas a devise that is not shutting off might show close to
12V.
What you are looking for is a closed circuit of some type. An ammeter would work
also but would need to be sensitive in the low amp range i.e. 1/2 amp to 5 amp I
would think.

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 19:49:56 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 16 or 16.5's?

Since we are on the subject of 16.5 wheels......


Does anyone have a set of 16.5 X 9.75 stock wheels you want to sell or trade?

E-mail private danadeb pacbell.net


Dana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 19:49:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Re: Engine Theory

>My opinions on engine use to purpose.
>289/302
>Makes a fine light duty commuter engine, but will suffer if asked to pull a
>lot of weight for extended periods. Light internals give it less compression
>braking ability than might be needed for towing. Put one in a Ranger or
>Bronco II or a short F-100.


My poor old '57 had a 289 in it, for 12 years, no rebuilds, many
modifications.
Did you know a '57 F100 weighs close to 4000 lbs? It was a short bed style
side. It ran 14 seconds flat in the 1/4, and saw the other side of the 100
on the
speedometer on a number of occasions, Scared the hell out of the C*evy
crowd in my neighborhood, and beat quite a few big block trucks on a
regular basis. It was a "little" down on torque, but had gobs of ponies
once it started spinning the tach. It came up on the cam at about 2800 rpm,
Then the Q-Jet's secondaries opened, slight bog, then !WOO HOO! we
gettin' someplace in a hurry!!!

When the little pr*ck that stole/wrecked it gets out of the can, I'll be
waiting
with the "Axe Handle Of Awareness". To break his other leg. Just kidding.....

Maybe..........

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'63 F100 Longbox

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:49:02 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: Re: Intercooled Intake

> From: "Harry Jennings"
> Subject: Re: Intercooled Intake
> Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 22:22:21 CST

> I have thought about something like that. However, I though about
> using a small AC compressor. A small one (like from a Geo Metro)
> would only take about 1hp (if that) to run. Think of how cool you
> could get the intake with that. Leave the ice at home. You could
> also use it to (pre) cool the fuel, too.

A couple years ago I researched using an AC compressor to do post-cooling
on some industrial process equipment, but quickly gave up once I did
some of the math... 1 HP = 10.7 kg-calories per minute, and by the time You
figure in compressor inefficiencies I think it would take a nasty big
compressor eating a boatload of HP to get any decent temp drops on
a 30lb manifold in a reasonable time.
Cooling the fuel would definately be easy enough, but since the fuel is
probably only 7-8% of the mass of the fuel/air mixture, gains from that are
pretty minimal.
The ice bucket method is probably the best way to get some decent improvement
in power..

Steve

Though good may come of practice, this primal truth endures;
The first time anything is done, it's done by amateurs.
-- Art Buck

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:49:05 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: Re: duraspark timing retard

>> Well, yeah it's simple and cheap but rather a dissapointment for
>> those
>> of us who were hoping to get a few degrees of ign retard on demand
>> at the flip of a switch! I suppose it was too good to hope for
>> anyway...
>
>With all the electronic guys on this list I can't believe no one has
>jumped in here with a high speed flip/flop or oscilator to do just
>what you say, it's just a timer thing right?

Yeah, it could be done with an oscillator and some dividers, but the
hard part is setting it up so it knows what RPM it's at and can figure
the correct delay time over a wide range of speed.
At 4000 RPM 5 degrees of retard is 205 microseconds, but at 1500 RPM
5 degrees is about 546.7 microseconds.
The circuitry to get it right over a wide RPM range starts getting
pretty complex and in the long run it's probably easier to start
with some kind of CPU and have someone write a little software...

>What rpm do you "usually" want this to be available? Tune it to that
>range, say passing in high gear at 60 or pulling a hill at 60 etc.,
>right?

I'd want mine to operate at least from 1800 to 4500 RPM to be really
useful.
One of my projects on the "to do" list is to build a distributor
machine so I can spin it up and see what my advance curve really looks
like and play with weights and springs until I get it just right for
my motor.

Steve

Though good may come of practice, this primal truth endures;....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.