fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #177

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Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 14:13:06 -0700 (MST)
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fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, March 24 1998 Volume 02 : Number 177

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Q-jet manifolds ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Autolite 4100 [pickup65

juno.com (Jon E Purut)]
AOD Transmission HELP ["Kevin" ]
Re: Autolite 4100 [John MacNamara ]
need some info [roger kubler ]
Re: Intercooled Intake ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: FE water pump [Stu Varner ]
Re: Autolite 4100 [Stu Varner ]
Re: HOT STARTS ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Autolite 4100 [John MacNamara ]
Re: duraspark timing retard ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: duraspark timing retard ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Autolite 4100 [Stu Varner ]
BFG long trail TA's [james oxley ]
Re: Check out my site ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: A Rare Find? [Sleddog ]
Re: Autolite 4100 [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Re: Autolite 4100 [Stu Varner ]
Re: duraspark timing retard [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Re: Autolite 4100 [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Re: 302 update ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: '64 w/400 problems.. ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: air bag suspension [Don Grossman ]
Re: FE Oil Pump Priming Shaft [John MacNamara ]
Re: Ford Vs. Chevy [Don Grossman ]
Questions about finding a good 390 engine to rebuild [Keith Srb
Read End Gear Ratio [Keith Srb ]
Re: Timing Retard ["Harry Jennings" ]
I'm doing brakes. ["John Peck" ]
Re: I'm doing brakes. ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
16 or 16.5's? [BDIJXS ]
Re: 16 or 16.5's? [Chris Hedemark ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 07:45:46 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Q-jet manifolds

> From: ballingr

ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
> Subject: Q-jet manifolds
> Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 02:09:45 -0600

> Though the message is not addressed to me, I hope you won't mind if
> I share my experience with Q-jets. I have used the Q-jet on my Fords
> for a few years, and have to say that it is the best carb for
> everyday work made. They aren't as easy to rebuild, and will need a

Only had one on a 62 cutlass and it was awsome. I have dedicated
myself to the quest of obtaining one along with a decent manifold for
my next 460 build.

> difficult to pin down. Autolite made a spead-bore for these engines
> also, but I've never compared the bolt pattern, anyone? I've done

Fords are proprietary and that's more irritating than words can
describe. The carter thermoquad, rochester and Holley 4165/75 are
all the same pattern but the ford just had to be different to save a
few pennies on royalties I suppose, there was certainly no valid
engineering reason anyone will ever convince me of :-(

> very well with the Edelbrock Performer and a Mr. Gasket adapter for
> my stuff. The throat of the adapter is shaped to direct the
> secondary flow to the center of the plenum, creating turbulence
> under the carb. I think it is as good as a dedicated manifold for

I shy away from adapting them even though I did adapt some autolites
to square bore manifolds and they did run, but how well compared to
to a dedicated one? I almost always change several things at one
time so who knows. It's just the principle I guess.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 07:54:36 -0500
From: pickup65

juno.com (Jon E Purut)
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 18:45:49 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100

That carb's pretty small for a 460.
Something like, what, 480 cfm?
George

John MacNamara wrote:

> Hello: Got a question for anyone on the list that might be running a

>>>Snip

There were two sizes of 4100 built (actually three but one is rare).
Autolite carbs have a "clock face" casting mark cast into the front bowl
on the right side just under the accelerator pump rod. In the center of
this "clock face" is the venturi size.

The venturi sizes are:

1.08=480 CFM
1.12=600 CFM
1.19=670 CFM (this size was only made in 1958)

Jon E. Purut
Pickup65

juno.com
JCPurut

worldnet.att.net
Visit my site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~JCPurut

1964 F500 (its big, its yellow, it makes me a smiling fellow)
1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100
1977 F150
1970 Mustang Fastback
1993 Escort Wagon (wifes car)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 07:28:50 -0000
From: "Kevin"
Subject: AOD Transmission HELP

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BD56F6.7E02D3E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I Just bought an AOD trans. and was looking for an aftermarket shifter, =
but,
all the shifters I found you have to purchase a special kit to use the =
shifter.

What is so different about the AOD to require this kit?

- ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BD56F6.7E02D3E0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

http-equiv=3DContent-Type>

I Just bought an AOD trans. and was =
looking for=20
an aftermarket shifter, but,
all the shifters I found you have to =
purchase a=20
special kit to use the shifter.

What is so different about the AOD =
to require=20
this kit?

- ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BD56F6.7E02D3E0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 05:56:39 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100

George Herpich wrote:

> That carb's pretty small for a 460.
> Something like, what, 480 cfm?
> George

George: I believe these were used on some of the old big block galaxies and
some later cars with 428's I believe. Since I have tall gears less 3.00 with
tires and a low rpm cam it should work ok. The Pony Carburetor shop bench
tests these on a 429 so it should work.

I use my truck mainly for towing a boat not pulling a sled so don't need peak
horse power. I'm more interested in torque. Since this is probably the best
4 barrel carb ever produced for a production vehicle, I would like to try it
on my truck.

Thanks
John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 05:54:48 -0800 (PST)
From: roger kubler
Subject: need some info

Gentlemen,
I am in need of some tech. knowledge. I have recntly
purchased a 1967 Econoline Pick-up. It is in fantastic shape, needing
only cosmetics, inside and out. My query is on how many were produced
in 1967, the last year of these?
Thanks,
Roger Kubler
rkubler

rocketmail.com

===

Roger Kubler

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 09:08:53 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Intercooled Intake

> From: "Harry Jennings"
> Subject: Re: Intercooled Intake
> Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 22:22:21 CST

> I have thought about something like that. However, I though about
> using a small AC compressor. A small one (like from a Geo Metro)
> would only take about 1hp (if that) to run. Think of how cool you
> could get the intake with that. Leave the ice at home. You could
> also use it to (pre) cool the fuel, too.

I think this is why drag racers use dry ice to cool things down,
there's no losses due to compressors etc.. Will the additional VE
you get from the cooler mixture really make up for the lost HP?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 08:09:45 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FE water pump

>Don't know if you bought the pump yet, but you might want to spend a little
>more on a good quality one. I know that there have been a lot or rebuilt units
>(not just water pumps but distributors also) that seem to go out after 2000
>miles...this especially seems to be common with the "lifetime" warranty
>ones....figure this one out....
>
I must agree whole heartidly with Jeff. I bought my 71 360 with 82,000
miles on it. It had been sitting for a few years. A new radiator went in
and water pump right when
I bought it. Avery cheap aftermarket from a local parts dealer. In the 2
years I have owned it, I have put two more pumps on. Each at about 1000
miles. When I rebuild the motor this fall, I aim to buy a new Ford water
pump from Virginia Mustang supply. They are new and cost about 75.00.
But, I think it will be worth the money!!

STU

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 08:19:51 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100

A
>There were two sizes of 4100 built (actually three but one is rare).
>Autolite carbs have a "clock face" casting mark cast into the front bowl
>on the right side just under the accelerator pump rod. In the center of
>this "clock face" is the venturi size.
>
>The venturi sizes are:
>
>1.08=480 CFM
>1.12=600 CFM
>1.19=670 CFM (this size was only made in 1958)
>

It is also my understanding the 1.08 bore carbs are getting very hard to
find. All the Mustang 289 enthusiasts are snatching them up everywhere
they can be found!!
1.12 is most common from my understanding. I have never seen a 1.08 in my
travels
let alone the 1.19 bore.
STU

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 09:21:40 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: HOT STARTS

> Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 17:26:34 -0500
> From: Brian
> Subject: Re: HOT STARTS

> > Ok, what exactly is it doing?
> >
> >IT ACTS LIKE THE BATTERY IS DEAD.

Ok, here's my list in order of likelyhood:

Battery cables (do not use ordinary grease, use silicone grease)
cable attachment to starter itself (been here myself)
engine ground (should be negative batt cable, in good condition)
start relay ($10 - 12)
starter ($27 rebuilt 4 pole)
ignition switch (very bottom of list, not likely)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 06:26:34 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100

Stu Varner wrote:

> A
> >There were two sizes of 4100 built (actually three but one is rare).
> >Autolite carbs have a "clock face" casting mark cast into the front bowl
> >on the right side just under the accelerator pump rod. In the center of
> >this "clock face" is the venturi size.
> >
> >The venturi sizes are:
> >
> >1.08=480 CFM
> >1.12=600 CFM
> >1.19=670 CFM (this size was only made in 1958)
> >
>
>

Stu/George: I have the 1.12 venturi which according to you is the 600 cfm
which is plenty for a 460.

Thanks for the info. By the way Stu you mentioned a stock aluminum spacer.
What were you referring to.

Thanks
John

78 F250 4x4 Supercab XLT Lariat

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 09:29:16 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: duraspark timing retard

> Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 19:41:13 -0800
> From: sdelanty
> Subject: Re: duraspark timing retard

> Well, yeah it's simple and cheap but rather a dissapointment for
> those
> of us who were hoping to get a few degrees of ign retard on demand
> at the flip of a switch! I suppose it was too good to hope for
> anyway...

With all the electronic guys on this list I can't believe no one has
jumped in here with a high speed flip/flop or oscilator to do just
what you say, it's just a timer thing right?

What rpm do you "usually" want this to be available? Tune it to that
range, say passing in high gear at 60 or pulling a hill at 60 etc.,
right?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 09:30:21 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: duraspark timing retard

> From: danadeb

pacbell.net
> Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 22:16:33 -0800
> Subject: Re: duraspark timing retard

> How about an electronically activated vacuum switch that cuts the
> vacuum to the vacuum ADVANCE can or supplies vacuum to the retard
> port of a two port vacuum ADVANCE can????????

This is even easier than my idea and adjustable too, I like it!

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 08:37:41 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100

>Stu/George: I have the 1.12 venturi which according to you is the 600 cfm
>which is plenty for a 460.
>
>Thanks for the info. By the way Stu you mentioned a stock aluminum spacer.
>What were you referring to.
>
>Thanks
>John
>
>78 F250 4x4 Supercab XLT Lariat

>From my understanding the 4100 had an aluminum spacer plate about one inch
thick that sits under the carb. Water connections in front and back as well
as a connection for PCV hose to connect from the back. I know my manifold,
a D5 casting needs one so I can hook up all the plumbing back the way it
was. they make them, I have seen them. The guy wanted 10 bucks for the
spacer but it was pretty beat up and somewhat pitted so i did not buy it.

I am going to try to find the Pony carb URL and see if they have new ones.
If not, I may go back to the salvage yard and pick that one up.

You don't have anymore 4100 sitting around for sale do you??
private email please.
Stu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 09:53:04 -0800
From: james oxley
Subject: BFG long trail TA's

Howdy

A freind of mine is looking at BFG long trail TA's vs BFG AT"s. Just
wondering if anyone has experince with the long trails.

Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 09:53:45 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Check out my site

> Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 00:57:38 -0500
> Subject: Check out my site
> From: pickup65

juno.com (Jon E Purut)

> Hey guys. I put a page together on the F500 that I am buying this
> weekend. Check it out and tell me what you think. This is an amateur
> attempt at web authoring so please be gentle but honest.

Dang! Shouldn't have gone there! Reminds me of my 62, cab over
F-600 with two speed axle, 5 speed clark and 330 engine. I really
liked that truck.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 10:09:47 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: A Rare Find?

rare find indeed. yes, the police heads are what you sahy they are, but i
thought that they were only made in 73-74 for the 460. the 429 heads from
71-72 had the CJ (larger) sized valves. either head is a great choice for
any motor build from mild to wild. the small ports keep up velocity, while
they are not too small for up to 650 hp with some work.

basically, if they are priced right get them. if they need alot of work,
start from scratch with a stock head. put the big valves in it and rocker
studs and you got the police heads.

71-72 police 429 had 2.25.73 valves. 73.5cc chamber.
73-74 police 460had 2.19.65 valves. 89cc chamber.

these are great heads, either one. but can be made from the stock heads
just by putting in the bigger valves, and the rocker studs. not a lot of
$$$ if those heads you found would need a valve job and other work anyway.
compare the prices.

CR should be about 10:1 with the 89cc heads and flat tops, and about 11:1
using the 73.5cc chambers. (just off the top of my head, must be double
checked.)

if the heads are cheep and in good cond, grab em!

sleddog

- ----------
From: Jim Craig[SMTP:jcraig

CLEMSON.EDU]
Sent: Monday, March 23, 1998 9:28 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79

ListService.net
Subject: A Rare Find?

I have a lead on a set of police interceptor heads casting # D2OE, but
I can find little info on the heads. I appreciate any light y'all can
shed on this. So far, this is what I know about them from the man
selling them:

A lot of people have never heard of them. They were used on 1971
and 1972 429 police cars. The heads have 2.19 intake valves
and I believe 1.72 exhaust. The PI's have a smaller intake runner
than the CJ's, but they're larger than std 429/460 heads. These
heads also come from the factory with screw in studs and guide
plates.

Would these heads be advisable for a truck destined to be a weekend
warrior?
I am hoping to use the stock flattop pistons in my '69 C9 460 block, but if
she has to be bored then no bother with CR since new pistons will be in
order.
And finally, what modifications that you know of if any e.g., water passage
routing etc., would be required to mate the heads to my block, and am I
correct in assuming they accept all 429/460 intake and exhaust manifolds?
I appreciate your help, and I hope you don't mind all the questions since
I am finding little info on these heads.
Thanks.

Jimbo
'77 Supercab

+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 07:25:15 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100

Let me know how it runs! I have been thinking about this same carb setup for a
while. ( can't find one ) I have always had good luck with the 2 barrel version
on 351Ws and 302s. Sooooooooo easy to work on. Soooooooooo simple in design.
Sooooooo consistent running.

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 09:21:25 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100

At 07:25 AM 3/24/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Let me know how it runs! I have been thinking about this same carb setup for a
>while. ( can't find one ) I have always had good luck with the 2 barrel version
>on 351Ws and 302s. Sooooooooo easy to work on. Soooooooooo simple in design.
>Sooooooo consistent running.
>
>Dana
Dana,
This is pecisely why everyone wants them and why I am changing my
2100 2V set up to a 4100 4v setup!>
STU

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 07:33:28 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: duraspark timing retard

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>

> This is even easier than my idea and adjustable too, I like it!
>

In an Elvis voice " Thankyou very much"

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 07:35:08 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100

Got an extra 4100 laying around???

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 10:44:32 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 302 update

> From: Schottsweb

webtv.net (George Schott)
> Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 18:56:55 -0500
> Subject: 302 update

> Dana the Pertronix Ignitor does not change anything except that it
> uses a magnetic pickup instead of the points I know this because I

I think the concern was that the point cam may make contact at a
different position than the rotor may line up with the pickup. I
would not expect them to be precisely the same. If they are then
these guys did some homework.

> spray of gas from the carb.and an occassional pop no fire really at
> least not constant mostly just popping and spraying of gas it's like
> instead of the fuel being sucked into the manifold it is being
> pushed out I pulled my plugs and they are not gas fouled I really
> don't know where else to look BTW the plugs are gapped at .032 Any
> more ideas?

This really sounds like a mistimed cam to me or a dizzy 180 out.
Really the only thing that can cause fuel to be pushed back out on
the compression stroke is open intake valves (or possibly blown head
gasket). Holed pistons will push it out the breather or dip stick
and can cause fuel to explode in the crank case so be careful.

What's the history of this engine again?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 10:53:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: '64 w/400 problems..

> From: A64F100
> Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 20:20:21 EST
> Subject: '64 w/400 problems..

> I think there might be a short somewhere. Also, sometimes when I
> start it, the starter doesn't stop kicking over. It had a bad
> starter (that I got ripped off on) but I replaced it with a new one

Do you have dura spark ignition? If the module shorts internally
between the white and red wires it can hold the start relay closed
once it's energized with as little as 2v, guess how I know?

When the ignition is in run position the white wire should have zero
voltage on it and the red should have 6 - 8 depending on the exact
version and setup. Mine has a ballast resistor feeding the module so
my red wire is 6 - 8v at the module.

The start relay can also do this as can the ignition switch. The
Module short should not affect the battery when the key is off
though AFAIK so the regulator may be an additional culprit. You may
have more than one thing going on here.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 09:34:28 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: air bag suspension

Ok someone had to bring up Air Bags.

Here was what I was thinking again.

Using F-150 springs in the rear with a flip shackle for everyday use.
Next add a set of air bags (aka Peterbuilt, big rig, 18 wheeler) to the
rear for carrying loads and working and such.

One on each side just inboard of the leaf springs. I want them be be
able to support the load weight 3-4000lbs. I know that they might be
overkill but most of the little air bags only support 2500lbs and have
the 8" of travel where I want something more like 12".

Hit me

Don Grossman
duckdon

pacific.net

P.S. you know what I meant

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 10:01:53 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: FE Oil Pump Priming Shaft

Tyler Wilkins wrote:

> Anyone have a Oil Pump Primimg shaft they would want to sell or borrow
> me? I'll pay for shipping to me and back plus $5 or something if I can
> borrow it. The local parts shop wants $87 for one! They want like $8
> for one for my 351M. Whats up with the high price for the FE one?
> Anyways let me know, I know I could always make one, anybody made one
> that has any suggestions on the best way to do it?

Tyler: I've seen these in PAW or Summit catalog for 8 or 9 dollars. If
interested email me for specifics.

Thanks
John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 10:06:50 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Ford Vs. Chevy

Harry Jennings wrote:

> I just heard this today and thought is was funny. So here it
> is----
>
> Chevys are like IBMs and Fords are like Macs. There is more
> aftermarker support for the IBM & Chevy, they do their job,
> are OK for the average user, and everyone has one. But everyone
> knows the Mac & Ford is faster, more reliable, and just plain
> better.
>
> :o)
>
> Harry.

I like that one Harry but I think we should duck and cover now ;-}

Don
duckdon

pacific.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 11:53:55 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Questions about finding a good 390 engine to rebuild

HI Gang.

I am going to start looking for a "good" 390 to rebuild and use to replace
the 240 6 cylinder in my 66 F100.

Other than the obvious things, like trying to find a 4V instead of a 2V
engine. Is there anything I should look for that would help me tell if I
am buying a motor that is capable of being rebuilt. Cracked block or heads
I know I probably won't find until the engine is torn down and at the
machine shop. Are they any external clues I could look for to help
determine the condition of the engine ??

I am going to use this truck for street and strip driving. It's day's of
towing and/or hauling things are over. My 74 F250 is going to handle those
chores now.

Thanks!

Keith Srbherbie

netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner,
Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box Style Side.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 13:42:49 CST
From: "Harry Jennings"
Subject: Re: Timing Retard

>Subject: Re: duraspark timing retard
>
> Well, yeah it's simple and cheap but rather a dissapointment for
those
> of us who were hoping to get a few degrees of ign retard on demand at
> the flip of a switch!
> I suppose it was too good to hope for anyway...

It CAN be done, guys. Just not as simple as you had hoped. I was
looking at some superchargers and I know at least one of them came
with an ignition upgrade kit. This kit used a knock sensor and
automatically retarded the timing. I don't see why you couldn't
put one on any engine. Or maybe there is a way to use on from a
newer truck that uses a knock sensor.

Later,

Harry.

Visit me at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/3271/index.html

______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 15:50:47 -0500
From: "John Peck"
Subject: I'm doing brakes.

Being mechanically inclined is not the same as knowing what I am doing. So
I would like to run some brake maintenance by all of you. If any one has a
suggestion or "watch out" I would appreciate it.

The break fluid is murky and my goal is to replace it completly while
rebuilding the break system.

Step
1. Replace rear cylinders. (because I have them.)
2. Rebuild front cylinders.
3. Drain all lines. (Is it necessary to blow the lines out with air or
will drain and flush suffice?)
4. Replace master cylinder. (it's $11.00 cheap and I understand it can
hold a rust line that can break loose when bleeding out the lines.)
5. Fill and bleed.
6. Adjust.

I plan latter on to do the break shoes and drums. I don't feel it necessary
at this time to convert to disc.

69F100-360
John Peck
johnpeck

visuallink.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 16:00:07 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: I'm doing brakes.

> From: "John Peck"
> Subject: I'm doing brakes.
> Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 15:50:47 -0500

> 3. Drain all lines. (Is it necessary to blow the lines out with
> air or will drain and flush suffice?)

If you blow out the lines use a dry air supply.

> 4. Replace master cylinder.
> (it's $11.00 cheap and I understand it can hold a rust line that can
> break loose when bleeding out the lines.)

The master cylinder has to be perfectly level when bleeding or air
can be trapped.

> 5. Fill and bleed.

They suggest short, quick strokes for the master cylinder. I cut
some short lines and screw them into the outlets with the ends curved
back into the resivoir so the ends stay covered with fluid while
pumping.

> 6. Adjust.

I would at least make preliminary adjustments before finishing the
bleeding.

....

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