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Return-Path: Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 11:15:37 -0700 (MST) From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest To: fordtrucks61-79-digest Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #171 Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest fordtrucks61-79-digest Sunday, March 22 1998 Volume 02 : Number 171 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks61-79-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: WHEEK BOLT PATTERNS [Fred F Robinson ] 302 Update [Schottsweb RE: 65 F250 4X4 [BDIJXS ] Re: F-250 4x4 hubs [Brian ] Re: Message from Deacon. [Tyler Wilkins ] HOT STARTS [Brian ] Re: Message from Deacon. [Brian ] '66 F250 Adventures [ROSITCH Re: HOT STARTS [ROSITCH Re: 302 Update [Mike Schwall ] Twin Plugs ["Robert Harris" ] Re: 302 Update [danadeb Re: HOT STARTS [danadeb Re: Message from Deacon. [Garr & Pam ] Re: 360 vs 390 ID [Ken Payne ] Re: Message from Deacon. [Ken Payne ] Re: KEN Admin. Question . [Ken Payne ] Re: 460 Dual Plug ["Bill Beyer" ] Re: Message from Deacon. [Garr & Pam ] Engine Theory [ballingr Re: KEN Admin. Question . ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 03:07:01 -0800 From: Fred F Robinson Subject: Re: WHEEK BOLT PATTERNS At 02:42 AM 3/22/98 -0800, you wrote: >I do not know if this will help anyone, but I found a fair list of bolt >patterns. > >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/WheelBoltPatterns.txt (Size 8.5K) Document >date: 25 Jan 1995 > >+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ >| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 >| List removal information is on the web site. | >+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ >I hope you do not mind this is a little long but it may interesting to someone on the list. Newsgroups: alt.hotrod From: hotrod Subject: Wheel Bolt Pattern List version 93.16.02 Date: Wed, 17 Feb 93 19:11:40 GMT first draft: dave.williams (circa 1985-ish, from American Racing catalog) as amended by: bill contributors: none so far 6 Bolt Wheels ---------------------------------------------------------- 6 on 5-1/2" Chevrolet - all to '48 Chevy/GMC - P.U., van to '70 - 4x4 P.U., Blazer '71-'89 - LUV 2WD '72-'84 Dodge - D-50, Ram 50 P.U. '79-'87 Ford - Courier PU '72-'84 Mazda - P.U. '72-'89 Nissan/Datsun - P.U.. Pathfinder '67-'89 Toyota - SR5, 4WD P.U., Landcruiser, 4-Runner (some) to '89 5 Bolt Wheels ---------------------------------------------------------- 5 on 4 64-69 Mopar "A" 13" 65-76 Mopar "A" 14" Dodge - Aspen, Dart, Demon, Swinger (w/o discs) '63-'72 Plymouth - Barracuda, Duster, Valiant (w/o discs) '61-'74 5 on 4-1/4 Volvo 140, 164 15" Volvo - all to '89 Ford - T-Bird '89 5 on 4-1/2 (114.3 mm) AMC Gremlin, Hornet, Pacer, Javelin, Matator, AMX AMC - most models (exc. Jeep) '40-'89 Chrysler/DeSoto - all full size RWD cars (exc. Imperial) '37-'89 Datsun/Nissan - 1600-2000 '65-'73 - 300ZX, 200SX V6 (some) to '89 Dodge van Dodge 1/2 ton PU Dodge - all full size cars & P.U.'s '37-'89 - Dart, Demon, Swinger '73-'80 Ford 1/2 ton van Ford Granada, Monarch Ford - All full size cars '49-'72; '79-'85 - Fairlane '62-'79 - T-Bird '55-'71; '77-'79 - Mustang (5-bolt) '65-'73 - Maverick 5-bolt all - Mustang SVO '85-'86 - Ranchero '68-'84 - Aerostar, Probe, Bronco II/Ranger to '89 Hudson - all '48-'56 Lincoln - all '70-'72; '80-'89 Mazda - RX7 Turbo, 626, 929, MX6 '86-'89 Mercury - all full size cars '52-'54; '61-'72; '79-'85 - Cougar '67-'79 Mopar '73-up "A" body Plymouth - all full size cars '37-'89 - Barracuda '70-'74 - Duster, Valiant, Volare '73-'80 Pontiac - Tempest, LeMans '61-'63 Studebaker - all '51-'66 Toyota Crown, Hilux PU Toyota - 2WD P.U. '69-'89 - Supra Turbo '86-'89 Volvo 122, 1800 5 on 4-3/4 Buick - Regal, Century, Special (most mid-size) '64-'80's Chevy van Chevrolet - all (exc as noted elsewhere) '49-'89 Corvette all Corvair '65-'69 5-bolt GM compact and midsize Oldsmobile - 442, Cutlass, F-85, Toronado (most mid-size) '60's-'80's Pontiac - GTO, LeMans, Firebird, Grand Prix (mid size) '64-'80's 5 on 5 Austin-Healy 3000 Buick LeSabre, Centurion, Riviera, Electra Buick - Electra, LeSabre, Riviera, (most full-size) '35-'87 Cadillac - DeVille, Fleetwood '38-'89 - SeVille '77-'79 Chevrolet 3/4 ton vans Chevrolet - Bel Air, Biscayne, Impala, Caprice, Kingswood '71-'76 - above w/HD package wagons '77-'89 - Blazer 2WD '71-'83 Chrysler - Imperial '67-'71 Ford, LTD '73-'75 Ford - T-Bird '72-'76 - Galaxie, LTD, Custom '73-'78 Lincoln - all (exc Versailles) '60-'67; '73-'79 Mercury - all '55-'60 - Cougar, XR7 '73-'77 Oldsmobile - all full size RWD '40-'87 Packard - all '51-'55 Pontiac - all full size RWD '40-'86 Rover 5 on 5-1/2 AMC - Jeep (5 bolt) '42-'89 Chrysler - 8 cyl. & wagon '46-'55 - Imperial '54-'66 Ford 2 ton van Ford Bronco, F100 Ford - all '28-'48 - full size P.U., van, Bronco '49-'89 International Scout, Travelall Lincoln - all '52-'60 Mercury - all '39-'51 Suzuki - Samurai '86-'89 5 on 100mm Buick - Century, Skylark, Skyhawk FWD '79-'87 - LeSabre, Riviera, Somerset '85-'88 Chevrolet - Beretta, Citation, Cavalier, Celebrity, Corsica '80-'89 Chrysler - Laser, Lebaron '85-'87 Dodge - Daytona, Aries, Charger, Lancer, Caravan '85-'89 Oldsmobile - Calais, Ciera, FWD '82-'87 - Firenza, Omega FWD '79-'86 Plymouth - Sundance '87-'89 Pontiac - 6000, Grand Am, J2000, Sunbird, etc. FWD '82-'87 - Fiero '82-'88 5 on 112mm (4.409) Audi - 5000 Turbo, Quattro '86-'87 Mazda - RX7 GSL '86-'87 Mercedes - all '77-'89 VW - Transporter, Vanagon '71-'89 5 on 115mm Buick - Century, Electra, LeSabre, Regal, Riviera (some) '83-'89 Cadillac - Allante, most others '84-'89 Chevrolet - Celebrity '85-'89 Oldsmobile - Regency, Ciera, Cutlass, Delta 88 '84-'89 Pontiac - 6000 '83-'89 - Bonneville, Grand Am '86-'89 5 on 120mm (4.72) BMW 2500, 2800, 3.0, 520, 530, 630, 730 BMW - all 5 bolt to '89 5 on 130mm Porsche - 911, 912, 944 to '89 4 Bolt Wheels -------------------------------------------------------- 4 on 3-3/4 Austin Marina Triumph Spitfire, TR7 Lotus 4 on 98mm (3.858) Alfa Romeo Alfetta FIAT Lancia 4 on 100mm (3.93) Acura - Integra to '89 Audi - most models to '89 Audi Fox BMW 1600, 2002 BMW - 2002, 300-series to '89 Chevy - Chevette '76-'87 - Spectrum, Nova '80-'89 Dodge - Omni, Rampage, Aries, 024 '79-'85 - Charger, Daytona (FWD) '82-'89 Honda - all (except '76-'80 Accord, Civic) to '89 Isuzu - Impulse, I-Mark to '89 Nissan - Pulsar, Sentra '87-'89 Opel Kadett Plymouth - Horizon, TC3, Reliant, Voyager '78-'89 Renault - all to '89 Toyota - Celica, MR2, Tercel '86-'89 VW - Dasher, Fox, Jetta, Rabbit, Scirocco to '89 4 on 4 Austin-Healey Sprite Crosley - all '39-'52 MG Midget Jensen Healey Opel Manta, Kadette GM L-body Buick Skyhawk '75-'81 Chevrolet Vega, Monza '71-'81 Pontiac Sunbird, Astre '76-'81 Oldsmobile Starfire '75-'81 4 on 4-1/4 (4 on 108 mm) Alfa Romeo (exc. Alfetta) Ford - Fairmont '78-'86 - Mustang 4-bolt patterns '74-'93 - T-Bird '80-'88 - Pinto '71-'80 - Fiesta '78-'85 - Escort all (RWD and FWD) - Cortina all - Taurus, Tempo, EXP to '89 - German-built Capri I, II, III '69-'8? Mercury - Capri '71-'88 - Cougar '79-'88 - Merkur, Topaz, Lynx '80-'89 - Zephyr '78-'86 Plymouth Cricket Porsche - 924 '77-'84 Sunbeam - Tiger, Alpine '65-'70 4 on 110mm (4.33) Mazda - RX2, RX3, RX4, GLC, 626, P.U. '71-'82 - RX7 to '85 4 on 4-1/2 Acura - Legend '86-'89 Buick - Special '61-'63 Chevrolet Corvair all 4-bolt Chevy II all 4-bolt Sprint '85-'87 Nova ('61-'70) Datsun/Nissan - most models to '89 Dodge Colt '79-'88 Dodge Colt (early) Ford Mustang all '65-'68 4-bolt Falcon, Maverick, Granada all 4-bolt Mazda - 626, RX7 '83-'87 ???? MGA, MGB, MGC Olds - F-85 '61-'63 Plymouth - Arrow, Sapporo '79-'88 SAAB all ??? SAAB - 900 to '87 Toyota - most exc. MR2 and P.U. to '89 Triumph TR 1..6 4 on 110mm (4.724) Honda 4 on 130mm (5.11) Porsche - 914 '71-'82 VW Beetle, 411, 412, 1500 Sedan, Transporter/Vanagon ____________________________________________________________________________ Jari Porhio eppu ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 08:21:36 -0500 From: Schottsweb Subject: 302 Update Thanks for the comments fellas I don't understand how it can be the distributor the motor ran fine when I pulled it from the car and I did'nt rebuild the motor and did'nt touch the distributor all I did was add some bolt-ons. I am going to try the distributor today what the heck it can't hurt anything I guess but I just don't get it. Duke's Fine 69 F-100 302 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 08:56:09 EST From: BDIJXS Subject: RE: 65 F250 4X4 Hi, Don't know if this is any help at all....have you checked the PCV valve? I remember a discussion here of the consequences of the valve being bad and its such a simple thing to look at....it won't explain the noise, but maybe some of the blowby???? I may have missed it, but have you have a chance to look at the plugs? Colorado Jeff ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 09:30:40 -0500 From: Brian Subject: Re: F-250 4x4 hubs > Spindles are the hardest parts to find. If anyone has a > source for Ford 4x4 spindles (Disk) let me know. I've got a friend here in Minnesota that owns a shop called Total Gear. He's probably got about 1000 axels at a time laying around. He has any part you may need for them used, or if ya want new...He has the source. Here's his Number 612-438-2943, He also has anything for your manual transmissions...or transfer cases. He rebuilds these units and sends them all over the country. Brian And if ya want to save a long distance charge, just e-mail me with what your looking for and I'll get a price for ya. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 09:39:32 -0600 From: Tyler Wilkins Subject: Re: Message from Deacon. Deacon wrote: > > Hi Gang. Today I got to missing this list to the point I had to come > back! You guys are friends of mine, I didn't realize how much you are > all part of my life until my Inbox was empty every day. Welcome Back Deacon! You have truely been missed by all members of the list! I don't think a single person would truely object to your returning. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 09:51:40 -0500 From: Brian Subject: HOT STARTS Ok list. Here's one for ya. I know that an old starter or bad one can be hard starting when it gets hot, But, I've got a rebuilt one(which could be bad) that doesn't want to start my 460 when the engine gets hot , normal operating temp. 192 degrees. So here's my question, Has anyone tried wrapping the starter with a header type heat wrap ?? And do the heat sheilds really work ?? I really don't feel that the starter is getting that hot though, I've removed a large portion of the inner fenders to allow better cooling of the engine compartment, I was also wondering if the starter solenoid could cause this problem ?? Brian '64 F100 Shortbox (460/C6) '78 F150 4X4 (300/4spd) '94 Chr*sler LHS '96 F150 4X4 Shortbox (302/auto) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 09:54:40 -0500 From: Brian Subject: Re: Message from Deacon. > Deacon wrote: > > > > Hi Gang. Today I got to missing this list to the point I had to come > > back! You guys are friends of mine, I didn't realize how much you are > > all part of my life until my Inbox was empty every day. > Welcome back to the Deacon...you really missed the empty box ? !! I feel the affects when there's only about 20 "e's" and not 75 !! Brian ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 08:06:43 -0700 (PDT) From: ROSITCH Subject: '66 F250 Adventures Hello Everyone, Well, I think my truck is trying to tell me something. I have been driving it with bad valves and a cranky transmission for about two years now. Thursday I drove it about 150 miles running errands (nice drive- Redwood City CA to Santa Cruz, then up the coast and inland to La Honda and back to Redwood City through the forest) and when I got home I noticed fresh oil spots under the BACK of the truck (I'm used to oil spots under the front of the truck....). I looked underneath and discovered that the pinion seal has decided to no longer seal and I have managed to rust-proof the entire underside of the bed and frame! I think I better wrap up my Mustang restoration and get to work on the truck (I think it is getting jealous!). I have a nice new 390 and many assorted parts saved up but I needed to finish the Mustang to have something to drive before I started on the truck (I HAVE installed the cool finned aluminum oval air cleaner- it kinda floats above that little Autolite 2100 two-barrel. It will look better on the new four- barrel carb...). Maybe I'll start by making a side-oiler passage on the 390 using bondo, then glue on some 7/16" bolt heads for the cross-bolted mains, paint the heads dull silver to resemble aluminum, grind off the "352" on the front of the block..... just kidding (for the most part... Well, just the last sentence.). Happy Sunday, Don Rositch ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 08:07:52 -0700 (PDT) From: ROSITCH Subject: Re: HOT STARTS Brian, Check the cable to the starter and the connections for it. Don Rositch ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 10:08:08 -0600 From: Mike Schwall Subject: Re: 302 Update At 08:21 AM 3/22/98 -0500, you wrote: >Thanks for the comments fellas I don't understand how it can be the >distributor the motor ran fine when I pulled it from the car and I >did'nt rebuild the motor and did'nt touch the distributor all I did was >add some bolt-ons. I am going to try the distributor today what the heck >it can't hurt anything I guess but I just don't get it. What bolt-ons? Let the list know what you added/changed. Mike _____________________________________________ Email: mikes Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 08:18:58 -0800 From: "Robert Harris" Subject: Twin Plugs "True Dual Plugs" have little or nothing to do with the electricals behind them. A coil per plug performs no better most of the time than a single coil for 8 or 16 plugs. What primarily matters is the combustion chamber design, followed by the location(s) of the plug. A small, fast burn chamber, with good compression, swirl and plug location(s) like on most FORD engines will be far less likely to be "improved" by an expensium exotic wazoo mega-blaster bazillion volt multi park Dr Weird Science ignition than a larger open chamber design (Ch*vy) (351 4V vs. 351 2V). The same chamber is more tolerant of EGR, compression and crap gas. Until you reach the performance "edges" of the combustion envelope, a standard spark works spiffy fine. With a small fast chamber - the edges are further away than a larger more open chamber - therefore more resistant to improvement by wallet lightening. Before "I think not", check with Dave Vizard, Grumpy Jennings, John B. Heywood and other knowledgeable sources please. I personally have never seen anything more than placebo effect on any standard street engine. But then, I've never put a magnet on my fuel line, used high speed body wax, put the latest reverse impulse swirl spacer - good for 15% improvement according to the article - advertized on page 97 in the current issue on my vehicles either. In my not so humble opinion, reliability is the primary advantage for standard performance street engines of electronic ignition over the old Kettering point ignition. But the self appointed and self anointed salespeople for miracle science will strongly disagree. Multiple sources of ignition vs. a single source virtually always work better than a single source. Never seen an exception (but there might be). And generally work MUCH better. It all deals with time. The multiple plug design burns the mixture faster and generally more completely. They reduce the spark advance needed and thus the negative power (pressure opposing piston movement before Top Dead Center) caused by spark advance. Since there is multiple controlled flame fronts, the combustion speed is improved - reducing the time the end gas's have to "detonate", and consuming more of the mixture. Since multiple plugs enhance the efficiency of combustion, the result is an improvement in torque, horsepower and mileage without Weird Science. The 460 has a very large diameter bore, which means it chamber will burn slower than a smaller bore. This implies that multiple plugs will improve its performance much more than a smaller bore 4 cylinder. Simple physics - like X-lax - always works for me. - ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 02:14:38 CST From: "Harry Jennings" Subject: 460 Dual Plug Well, I just read the article. Dual plugs is nothing new by a long shot. The first one *I* remember seeing was in a friends '87 Nissan P/U. The Ford Ranger uses such a set-up in the 4 cyl. I am sure that a dual plug set-up has advantages. But the claims made in that article seem, well, optimistic at best. True dual plug set-ups use more than one coil and such. This engine just split the plug wires. All that was accomplished was producing 2 sparks rather than one. I doubt that modification alone would make a big difference. A dual plug stroked 460 (480ci's) get better mileage than a similar built single plug 460ci engine? I don't know about that. How were the other engines built? Was the 460 and V10 dead stock? I think that a good high quality ignition would work just as good as that "dual plug" 480 system! Maybe if the second set of plugs were ran off of their own system? sceptical :o) Harry. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 08:58:11 -0800 From: danadeb Subject: Re: 302 Update If you changed the carb, the vacuum lines might have gotten mixed up applying full manifold vacuum to the vacuum advance causing it to advance too far!!! Just a thought! Dana ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 09:16:56 -0800 From: danadeb Subject: Re: HOT STARTS I have the same problem with my 460 sometimes!!! The engine doesn't even need to be all that warmed up. My theories are as follows; 1) Starter getting too warm causing hard cranking. 2) Battery on the weak side. 3) Too many connections in line with the starter motor.( 460 starters have a starter solenoid / gear throwout mounted on them then if you put the engine in a 72-older you usually hook that up to the existing solenoid = lots of voltage / amperage loss ) 4) Too much initial advance ( not enough cranking retard for the duraspark crowd , there is a module that provides 16 deg retard if anyone wants to know I will call the manufacture and get the number) I think that any one of these theories could cause the problem. I have not tried to resolve the problem on my truck since it happens so seldom and I usually just work around it. Dana ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 12:49:58 +0000 From: Garr & Pam Subject: Re: Message from Deacon. Welcome Back! Deacon ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 12:56:18 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: 360 vs 390 ID No way to tell. You have to measure the stroke. At 01:04 AM 3/22/98 EST, you wrote: >I'm sure this has beeb asked B4, but are there any external markings to >differentiate between a 360 and a 390? I was told that I purchased a 360 but >htis thing just won't quit. I pulled a 77 Lincoln 388 miles with it and I >think I got better gas milage with a load and I wasn't lacking any power >either. > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 13:00:00 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: Message from Deacon. At 01:05 AM 3/22/98 -0800, you wrote: > Hi Gang. Today I got to missing this list to the point I had to come >back! You guys are friends of mine, I didn't realize how much you are >all part of my life until my Inbox was empty every day. - -snip- > >Boy, here I thought my first post was going to be comical! :) > >Later! > Told you he wouldn't stay gone for long! One of these days we've got to meet. FTE content, has anyone here had success with sway bars on a 67-72 F100? Was it worth it? I've been seriously thinking about adding them... Ken ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 13:07:01 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: KEN Admin. Question . At 02:00 AM 3/22/98 -0800, you wrote: >Sleddog and I appear to have moved this discussion far beyond the simple fun >of the 400M-VS-460 debate. > >As this thread has spun it's way out we are getting into some technical >areas that require some basic understanding of Physics, Thermodynamics, >Finite Amplitude Wave theory, History, Politics, and Whisky. (I don't know >the last two just seemed to fit right in.) >I started to reply to some questions... Stroke, Port Configurations, etc... >The answers get into physics and theory so quickly... there is no way to >simplify it and have it remain intelligible... >So a simple answer to a seemingly simple question turns into a 3 page >document, which I am willing to do. > >Ken, just how long can a post to this list be?? The server is set to bounce anything over 10k. This gives you plenty of space. If its not enough, you can post twice. > >Do you/we have any guidelines for just how technical we want to get here? > As long as its on topic, go ahead. I just hope my eyes don't glaze over. Although I'm comfortable doing rebuilds I'm nowhere near the technical levels of some of the people here. My expertise is computers. I wish engines came as naturally. Anyways, the information ought to be a good learning experience. Just remember though, as many auto engineers have found out, that what the figures say and what's on the drawing board often turn out to be false in real world use. Ken ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 10:03:36 -0800 From: "Bill Beyer" Subject: Re: 460 Dual Plug Drag racers have been using dual plugs for a long time. I also remember a tech article detailing how to make a dual plug Harley Davidson. The N*ssan dual plug 4 cyls had dual coils and the dist looked like an 8 cyl. It didn't fire both plugs simultaneously. I was told that this was an emissions issue not really a performance enhancement. - ---------- > From: Harry Jennings > To: fordtrucks61-79 > Subject: 460 Dual Plug > Date: Sunday, March 22, 1998 12:14 AM > > Well, I just read the article. Dual plugs is nothing new by a long shot. > The first one *I* remember seeing was in a friends '87 Nissan P/U. The > Ford Ranger uses such a set-up in the 4 cyl. > > I am sure that a dual plug set-up has advantages. But the claims made in > that article seem, well, optimistic at best. True dual plug set-ups use > more than one coil and such. This engine just split the plug wires. All > that was accomplished was producing 2 sparks rather than one. I doubt > that modification alone would make a big difference. > > A dual plug stroked 460 (480ci's) get better mileage than a similar > built single plug 460ci engine? I don't know about that. How were the > other engines built? Was the 460 and V10 dead stock? > > I think that a good high quality ignition would work just as good as > that "dual plug" 480 system! Maybe if the second set of plugs were ran > off of their own system? > > sceptical > > :o) > > Harry. > > ______________________________________________________ > > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ > | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 > | List removal information is on the web site. | > +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 13:08:53 +0000 From: Garr & Pam Subject: Re: Message from Deacon. Ken Payne wrote: > > At 01:05 AM 3/22/98 -0800, you wrote: > > Hi Gang. Today I got to missing this list to the point I had to come > >back! You guys are friends of mine, I didn't realize how much you are > >all part of my life until my Inbox was empty every day. > -snip- > > > > >Boy, here I thought my first post was going to be comical! :) > > > >Later! > > > > Told you he wouldn't stay gone for long! One of these days we've > got to meet. > > FTE content, has anyone here had success with sway bars on a > 67-72 F100? Was it worth it? I've been seriously thinking about > adding them... > > Ken > > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ > | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 > | List removal information is on the web site. | > +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ Ken I dont own an older truck but I had a Splash with front and rear sway bars and it handle awesome it ran with Z 28s and Mustang GTs around corners...just too bad I got blown away once out of the turns! I can say it makes a big difference in corner stability compared to my friends ranger without them. My Lightning handles well also but the suspension is completed different on it than a regular F-150 so its not fair to compare but I think they are indeed worth it...I think you can get a set(front and rear)bars from Hellwig for about $220. JCWhitney carries them and they come with polyurethane bushings which is a plus! Hope this helps Chris ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 12:06:54 -0600 From: ballingr Subject: Engine Theory I am new to the list, and I wish to thank Mr. Payne and co. for their time in giving us this forum to discuss our trucks needs and strengths, and to my fellow list members who take the time to share their knowledge and experience. I hope that I am not speaking out of turn to jump into the fray over which engine is better than others, If I am then accept my apology. There are many factors that determine the utility af a given device. A knife makes a lousy spoon and vice versa, but they are both utensils and can be used to eat with. The versatility of a given device requires compromise, it wont be the best at either end of its range of utility, but will perform acceptably if matched to the task it spends the most time doing. Being a Fordnatic, I've always heard from my Chevy and Chrysler buds the criticism of Ford for making so many different engines with changes through the years that defeat interchangeability. My answer is that if you look at the engine vehicle combination they are for the most part the best matched in their class to the work involved. The changes made address a weakness in design that make an improvement to suitability for it's work. I will not criticize any Ford engine family because they are all good if used for what they were made for except for one exception that I will come to later. First off, we all may have a different definition of the word work as it applies to trucks. Drag racing and mud bogging use a different setup than a daily driver or trailer puller. Is there an engine family that can do it all? On one level, yes, but not without compromise. No engine can provide optimal performance in every aspect for every purpose. **** My opinions on engine use to purpose. 289/302 Makes a fine light duty commuter engine, but will suffer if asked to pull a lot of weight for extended periods. Light internals give it less compression braking ability than might be needed for towing. Put one in a Ranger or Bronco II or a short F-100. 292/312 For it's day it was the best truck engine in existence. There are still quite a few doing an honest days work. Great powerband for everyday driving and good compression braking for towing. Obviously limited potential for competition use due to age of components and lack of aftermarket interest. 240/300 The best six ever made. Also the most versatile truck engine in it's displacement class. Good strong torque at a useable rpm level, good compression braking. Keep up the cooling system though, if you tow, they will heat up a little if worked hard. 351 W Great all around performer, one of the best choices for anything but heavy hauling. Great everyday power and step-up to the plate potential. Great aftermarket support, just don't get stupid with the cam or it will be a whole different animal. The firing order makes it a very smooth engine. 335 SERIES This engine series is not the best choice for trucks at either end of the utility scale. It has a lot of trouble when asked to work hard for extended periods, and uses a lot of gas for commuting. It's strenghs are good middle of the road performance and the good supply of parts still available. It really has suffered the most from living in the shadow of the FE and the 460. I think that these engines will begin to get a little more respect as time goes by, though I strictly classify it as medium-duty and good if you don't ask it to do more. 429/460 The best large displacement truck engine in existence. Short of a diesel, They do more modern day towing than any other Ford. Torque is great but comes with a hefty price tag in fuel. The diesel would do better if you put on a lot of miles. The best Ford engine to modify for competition in trucks, the big bore-stroke relationship SVO CJ heads and other aftermarket and factory goodies make it the best for truck competition, if you have the cubic dollars to spend. They are expensive. Bet you thought I forgot one...... FE SERIES The crown-jewel of truck engines. NEVER in the history of trucks has there been a better designed engine for truck use. It makes torque, horsepower, and good compression braking. It is the most versatile and probably the closest that anyone ever came to making an engine that can do it all. They are rugged and live a long time under the most arduous circumstances. They can tow, commute, and compete for less money than any engine in it's class. A properly built 428 will give the 460 a run for it's money unless it has some trick stuff. Of course it's heavy and loves plugs and gas, but new technology is making them better all the time. I never understood why they stopped making them, emissions, mileage? I see a lot of degign cues in the most modern of engines, port cofiguration,chamber shape, there was a reason.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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