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Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 15:24:36 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #158
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, March 17 1998 Volume 02 : Number 158



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

6 Cylinder Duraspark ["Gillespie, John D." ]
Re: wheel size ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Number 4 Main Oil Feed Hole ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Gas Prices [Peter J Warren ]
RE: wheel size [Sleddog ]
RE: Oil Pressure Problem [sdelanty ]
Re: Pwr steering swap [CandyDMan ]
RE: Location [sdelanty ]
Dana 20 t-case ["Mike Paz" ]
Re: gas prices [mark heims ]
Re: Dana 20 t-case [Joe DeLaurentis ]
Re: 351's [dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)]
Mains [am14 chrysler.com]
RE: 302 ["Harry Jennings" ]
16" tires [am14 chrysler.com]
Casting # [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Intro, noses ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 351's ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: Oil Pressure Problem ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: 351's [Kurt Albershardt ]
Mechanic's Quick Reference [Kurt Albershardt ]
Re: Gas Prices [Mike Schwall ]
Re: 351's ["Dave Resch" ]
RE: gas prices [Sleddog ]
RE: 351's [Sleddog ]
Re: 351's ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 351's ["Michael Connor" ]
Re: 351's [Garr & Pam ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 09:40:34 -0800
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: 6 Cylinder Duraspark




If you are thinking about during a Duraspark for your 6 go
ahead. It is
quick and easy. You need to get all the parts just like doing a
v8. Need
the distributor, wires, cap, wiring and brain box.

First take note as to where the wires and cap line up.

Take off the cap, leaving the wires attached, and mark your
rotor location
and vacuum port location. Next remove the retaining bolt and
distributor.

Install the new distributor so that when installed the rotor and
vacuum
port are in the same places as the old distributor.

Next put on the new cap and rotor. You might want to put the
rotor on
first. It's a little easier that way ;)

Match up the old cap to your new one so that the plug wires are
going to
be in the same location and install one wire at a time.

I did it this way but you could do the find #1 method if you
prefer.

Next is a good time to install the wiring from the distributor
to the
brain box, and mount the box in a convenient location.

Powering up the box. You will have 3 wires looking you in the
face here.
Lets start with the simple one. Power to the coil. You can
simply hook
up the old coil wire to the new one.

Wire #2 will be power to the box. You will want to run it to a
switched
on run and start only power source. A good location for this is
at the
ignition switch before the resistance wire to the coil.

Wire #3 is an ignition retard switch. When you go to start the
engine it
tells the box to back the timing off for easier starting. run
this to the
start wire on the Starter relay.

Clean everything up and you are on your way.

Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

Don, Any suggestions for sources for the electronic distributor parts ?

John
66 F100 240-I6
82 LTD 302AOD
94 Ranger Splash 4.0L (I hate liters)
gillespj spawar.navy.mil

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 12:42:24 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: wheel size

> Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 12:07:41 -0500
> From: Chris Hedemark
> Subject: Re: wheel size

> As far as I am aware, 16" tires weren't available on much of
> anything back then. If anything, it *might* have been available
> with a 16.5" rim or maybe a previous owner "upgraded" to 16.5" rims.

Certain years the fords and chryslers and even chevys had the same
wheel size and 5 lug bolt circle but not sure just which ones. I
think the 67 truck has a smaller bolt circle than the 78 ford truck
(not sure but I had a problem back then getting all my wheels to fit
stuff) and the 74 merc had an even larger circle than the trucks and
then the vans..............(just kidding, vans were the same as PU's)
Anyway they could be chevy wheels or after market wheels. If they
are wagon wheels they are after market for sure in those years since
ford didn't have wagon wheels back then AFAIK?

It's interesting though, usually it's the other way around. People
want 15" rims on 8 lug axles, not usually the other way due to more
choices in the 15" sizes.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 12:47:18 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Number 4 Main Oil Feed Hole

> Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 15:14:46 -0800
> From: Marv Miller
> Subject: Number 4 Main Oil Feed Hole

> Yes! I had forgotten that I did that, too. This is best
> accomplished with a high-speed tool like a Dremel with a 1/8 inch
> carbide burr chucked up. Check all five of these, as I remember at
> least one other that was partially plugged, though not quite so
> drastically.

Azie and Marv, Why did you guys do this again?? It seems to fly in
the face of modern thinking from what I've read? I know for a fact
that the cleveland required restrictors in the cam passages from the
mains to run hard or all the oil got pumped up into the top end and
cavitated the bearings??

The 385 series has a windage problem which does the same thing so
cross drilling and restricting is in order there too if you don't use
a windage tray??

I'm not an FE man though I've owned a few, just never worked on any.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 11:55:46 -0600 (CST)
From: Peter J Warren
Subject: Gas Prices

I haven't seen gas for under a buck a gallon in six years, and that was
because of a gas war in town. The lowest we pay is usually $1.25 for
regular unleaded, but that's the price you pay when no one else lives up
in Northern Wisconsin :)

P.J.

broke college student who can't afford gas for his imaginary truck

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 13:06:50 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: wheel size

choices, and the safety bead too. 16.5's don't have it. flats tend to
come right off the rim and low pressure 4 wheelers have enough problems
with that as it is.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 1998 7:42 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: wheel size

It's interesting though, usually it's the other way around. People
want 15" rims on 8 lug axles, not usually the other way due to more
choices in the 15" sizes.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 10:11:59 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: RE: Oil Pressure Problem

>I don't have new rod bearings. Should I? (very genuine question!) I'm
>hoping
> to cure the oil pressure problem and make this engine last at least 2 more
>yrs.
> Then it will all come out for a proper rebuild.

Yes! If the Mains are shot, the rod bearings likely are also.
They are very easy to change, I would definately do them while
I was in there!

>I did get a new shaft, pickup tube and screen for the oil pump.

Good man!

>I'm not going to pull the crandshaft out. I intend on dropping the=20
>crankshaft
>down slightly and rolling the new bearings into place. I intend on=20
>loosening
>the main bearing caps and then doing one bearing surface at a time.

That should work fine for the bearings, but I'm a little curious
about how hard it is to change the rear main seal with the crank still
in place. I had a hell of a time doing mine with the crank out and the
engine on a stand...

Happy motoring,

Steve

Opportunity may knock only once,
but temptation leans on the doorbell.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 14:05:51 EST
From: CandyDMan
Subject: Re: Pwr steering swap

>The '78/'79 F250/F350 is the Intergal (?) type and should be easily
>adapted to the earlier years. At least it would still ve Blue Oval.

>Azie

Will this setup work on my '70 F250 4X4 ?

Dennis Candy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 11:19:01 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: RE: Location

>>> Steve D. writes: >>I'm in Geyserville. You're in Sebastopol eh?

>>Are these places in North America????????????

>Is that in CA or Northern Cal?

Sonoma County, about 100 miles north of San Francisco.


> FTC, Has
>any one got any experience w/replacing the standard distributor for one
>w/ electronics in a 240 straight six.

Did a 300/6 a few months ago. It's a breeze...

Happy motoring,

Steve

Opportunity may knock only once,
but temptation leans on the doorbell.

------------------------------

Date: 17 Mar 1998 11:36:38 -0800
From: "Mike Paz"
Subject: Dana 20 t-case

Subject: Time:11:23 =
AM
OFFICE MEMO Dana 20 t-case =
Date:3/17/98

When I bought my '66 bronco, it came with a dana 20 transfer
case. The problem is that it did not have anything to show
what the shift pattern was. It was easy to find 2 wheel high, but I =
can't
tell the difference between 4wd hi and lo. Does anyone know
what the shift pattern is? Someone told me once that it had 2wd lo
and 2wd hi including 4wd hi and lo. My t-case only has three settings
so the 2wd lo I don't think is there...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 12:28:52 -0700
From: mark heims
Subject: Re: gas prices

Sleddog wrote:
> don't get me started on this one! i live in stroudsburg, pa. from the rt
> 80 bridge from NJ all the way thru the poconos the price is always high.
> it never falls. it is the ability of the retailers to charge high prices
> in a "vacation" or "tourist" area that keeps prices high. i have been to
> other tourist areas like atlantic city, and the prices are only slightly
> higher than the national. but here in the poconos for some reason we never
> get any breaks in price. i make someone rich every time i fill up! if it
> was because of fuel delivery, then why aren't prices in places like montana
> higher? i drive into NJ often, and fill up there when ever i can. the
> prices are usually 5-15, sometimes 20 cents less just crossing over the
> state line. And in jersey, they even have to pay someone to pump the gas
> by law. try finding a full service station in pa! here we pump it
> ourselves, and pay more. ok i'll shut up now.
>
> sleddog

Gas prices in Montana aren't cheap, they just fell to $1.23, lowest in
quite awhile, and there is a refinery in town! While camping last
summer, I got gas at a tourist trap, $1.60 a gallon! Speaking of gas,
what kind of gas mileage could I expect from a F150 supercap 4x4 with a
300 six? I'm looking for a hunting and camping truck that won't break
me at the gas stations. Thanks for any inputs.

Mark
1978 F150 4x4, "The Great Pumpkin"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 14:45:18 -0500
From: Joe DeLaurentis
Subject: Re: Dana 20 t-case

On my 72 Bronco(Should have never sold it :(!!!) putting the
t-case all the way forward towards the dash was 4 wheel low!
Joe
68 F-100
70 F-250
72 Bronco Sport

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 09:18:00 -0500
From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: 351's

- -> > At least until the 5.0 Mustangs came around. It' still damned
- -> expensive > to build an FE but it's still my favorite.

Dollar for dollar you'll get more power from an FE than a 5.0, and
that's a fact, Jack.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 14:56:15 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Mains

Ted writes: >>I'm not going to pull the crandshaft out. I intend on
dropping the crankshaft down slightly and rolling the new bearings into
place. I intend on loosening the main bearing caps and then doing one
bearing surface at a time.

Ted! Make sure when you put the main caps back on that you point the
arrow toward the front. ( it's faint, but it's there - cast into the
caps, all except the center (thrust)). Loosen all the mains about one
or two turns to let the crank drop just a 'smidgen'. The rear seal
will be the biggest problem if it is 'rope' type. You will probably
have to have some help here if it is rope. One to pull with needlenose
on one side, one to push with a small driftpin on the other side and
one to turn the crank the way you are trying to pull the old seal out.
Once it starts, you're home free.

It can be done, but sometimes it gets frustrating. Just use good
common sense, and it will go OK.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 14:19:17 CST
From: "Harry Jennings"
Subject: RE: 302

>
>What about the old Chevy 302? I personally don't like any Chevy motor
>but for you horsepower guys this motor was awesome. VERY UNRELIABLE
>though! If I had to pick one it would be the LS6 454 Chevelle.
>Still enjoy my 351W Lightning alot more than I would ANY car!
>Chris
>

Sorry Chris, but the GM 302 was not unreliable nor was it a high horse
power engine. Sure, it made good power for only 302 ci's, but it would
get stomped be a 327 or a 350. All the 302 was was a 327 (or a 350) with
a 283 crank. This gave it a 3.00" stroke and a 4.00" bore (just like a
Ford). The rest of the engine was standard GM small block. Definitely
not unreliable by any standards.

This engine was built for Trans-Am racing. Because of this many people
think it must have made gobs of power. Not really. GM would have loved
to use the 327 or 350, but they were limited to 5.0l's (race rules).

GM didn't even have to offer the engine in street cars. They had to
build X number of cars (500 I think) that were a street version of the
race cars. However, the street cars sould run a larger stroke. So GM
could have ran the 327 (or 350) in the street cars and met the rules.
This is what Chrysler did. They ran the 340 in the street cars ad a
destroked 340 in the races. The destroked 340 was never offered in
street trim. Ford didn't have a problem since they ran the 302 in the
street and the races.

But, hey, many people don't even know that GM mad a 302 (and GMC mad a
351, but it was a V6....:)

Harry.

Visit me at
HREF="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/3271/index.html">my new
web page.


______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 15:23:30 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 16" tires

Chris writes: >>As far as I am aware, 16" tires weren't available on
much of anything back then. If anything, it *might* have been
available with a 16.5" rim or maybe a previous owner "upgraded" to
16.5" rims.

Naw Chris! 16" tires have been around as far back as the Model A.
They were more common than any other size until after WWII. Then the
15" became popular, and in '57 the 14" became popular. just depends on
the times. 16" were still somewhat common in the smaller trucks as
late as '70, though not nearly as common as the 15" at that time.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 15:26:22 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Casting #

Steve writes: >>Hell, I couldn't even *find* casting #'s when I had my
390 block stripped down... It was all clean and I searched
everywhere. Where are they supposed to be?

In the front of engine, just to the left(drivers side) of the timing
chain cover you will most likely find "352" cast right in.
Don't mean a Darn thing, but its there.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 15:44:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Intro, noses

> Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 20:12:25 -0800
> From: Pat Brown
> Subject: Re: Intro

> Marko - Sorry to hear about your nose, get a steering wheel puller.

I always leave the nut part way on..............??

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 15:54:33 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 351's

> From: "Bill Beyer"
> Subject: Re: 351's
> Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 16:04:23 -0800

> So you're saying it takes more money and more brains to make a Ford
> go fast than a Che*y? This is a good thing?

You can build a 302 or 351W for about the same money as a Ch**y but
you don't have as much info out there to pick from nor quite as many
selections to choose from for any given setup. One of the reasons
for that is the bow tie format for the valves and ports which makes
it a little easier to make power with less gas than the fords but the
main reason is simply more of them around and better OEM support for
the after market which is a shame but that's the way it is
unfortunately.

If you want to talk big blocks the Ch**y's have all the marbles again
and building an equivalent ford will cost about twice as much as a
ch**y and power options are much scarcer. I know, they are out there
but nothing like the ch**ys so hold the flames :-)

The fact that it takes more brains simply means we get more
satisfaction out of our projects because we have accomplished more
Personally that's worth it to me :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 15:57:18 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Oil Pressure Problem

> Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 10:11:59 -0800
> From: sdelanty
> Subject: RE: Oil Pressure Problem

> That should work fine for the bearings, but I'm a little curious
> about how hard it is to change the rear main seal with the crank
> still in place. I had a hell of a time doing mine with the crank
> out and the engine on a stand...

Depends on what type seal you have. The rope seals are tricky to do
that way but can be done. The rubber with steel wire inside is
easier. I've done one of those and it tapped right out. Just be
carefull not to scratch the crank or it will destroy the new seal.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 13:05:10 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: RE: 351's

Ahh.. I forgot about the cube thing.

So why don't we see 1" journals and titanium cranks?



At 04:39 PM 3/14/98 -0500, Sleddog wrote:
>viscous drag (as in oil, or air flow) increases by the square, or is it by
>the cube? can't remember, but it is not linear and therefore the 8.3% is
>like 8.3 squared, or cubed. much bigger difference now.
>
>sleddog
>
>----------
>From: Kurt Albershardt[SMTP:kurt nv.net]
>Sent: Saturday, March 14, 1998 1:57 PM
>To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net; fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
>Subject: Re: 351's
>
>At 05:56 AM 3/14/98 -0500, George Herpich wrote:
>>> Hmm... the Windsor crank is a *hawg*; in everything but the stroke it
>>> could be out of a big block. I've never seen anyone break one, though
>>> I'm sure it has happened. Some people could break a crowbar in a
>>> sandbox, then lose one of the pieces.
>>
>>Crank breakage isn't the problem. It's bearing speed due to the overly
>>large main
>>journals. That's why you can't spin them as high as a C.
>
>Makes sense. Still, I have to wonder how a difference of 8.3% could make
>_too_ much difference in the max RPM unless there's some threshold on
>bearing surface materials.
>
>
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>
>
>
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 13:01:40 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Mechanic's Quick Reference

"FOOL PRESSURE CHART"

(For those who refuse to use a pressure gauge)

Due to the fact that most technicians do not want to take the time to
correctly test the fuel pressure, we have developed the following...

With the engine running, either push the schrader valve in or loosen the
fuel line THEN IF:


Fuel does not come out of the test area... Pressure is approx 0 psi
Fuel hits the hood insulation... Pressure is 5 - 8 psi
Fuel squirts over the fender... Pressure is 10-15 psi
Fuel splashes off the fender onto the hood insulation
and into the next repair bay... Pressure is 25-30 psi
Fuel squirts to the garage roof, all over the car,
including the shop owner... Pressure is 30-50 psi




VACUUM TEST
"Rule of Thumb"

Put thumb on vacuum hose leading to direct engine vacuum.

Don't feel anything Change thumbs and re-test
Still don't feel anything Vacuum is very low to none.
Hose has slight suction 1" to 5"
Suction causes skin to wrinkle 5" to 8"
Suction turns thumb blue 8" to 10"
Suction creates hickey on thumb 10" to 12"
Suction creates pain 18" to 20"
Suction will not release and begins to move toward
index finger 20" to 25"




"IDIO-ILLUMINATION" CHART

With the vehicle prepped and ready to be tested, hook the negative lead of
the test light to a good ground and proceed with testing.

The bulb DOES NOT light The voltage is 0 - 1 volt
The bulb MIGHT be glowing The voltage is 1 - 3 volts
The bulb BARELY GLOWS (or there is a
reflection from the overhead lights) The voltage is 3 - 5 volts
The bulb GLOWS MUCH BRIGHTER than #2, but only
a little brighter than #3 The voltage is 5 - 7 volts
The bulb GLOWS WITH THE SAME INTENSITY AS A
BALD HEAD ON A SUNNY DAY The voltage is 7 - 9 volts
The bulb GLOWS BRIGHTLY and is GAINING IN
INTENSITY The voltage is 9 - 11 volts
The bulb is ALMOST BRIGHT ENOUGH TO
READ BY The voltage is 11 - 13 volts
The bulb is BRIGHT ENOUGH that you still see a spot
when you look away The voltage is 13 - 15 volts
The bulb SHINES WITH THE INTENSITY OF A
HALOGEN HEADLAMP The voltage is 15 - 17 volts
The bulb is so bright that it MAY BE A SIGN
FROM GOD The voltage is 17 - 19 volts
The bulb flashed with the INTENSITY OF A MINOLTA
FLASH POINTED 3 FEET FROM YOUR FACE The voltage is 20 to 40,000 volts
(Secondary Ignition)



IGNITION VOLTAGE OUTPUT TEST

Scopes may be inaccessible from time to time, so we at "Bubba's Garage"
have come up with this here test for Ignition Output:

1.Hold medium wrench in one hand, Sears wrench preferred for accuracy
of test 'cause other smooth wrenches are too slick for throwin'!

2.With engine runnin', grab hold of the plug end of an ignition cable
with the other hand and hold on tight!

3.This will more than likely cause you to throw wrench! KV output
is based on how far the wrench wuz thrown!

10 feet = approx. 10,000 volts
20 feet = approx. 15,000 volts
30 feet = approx. 25,000 volts
Over 30 feet = Caution! Must be one of them new
dis-is-it ignition systems,
use bigger wrench and retest.


WARNING! No side effects have been reported due to testing at this time
(although it has been known to kill chiggers after berry pickin')

Bubba Sez: Electricity will not usually hurt you, instead it is the back of
your neck going through the hood latch that really ruins your day!!




HOW TO TORQUE WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH.


Yes you can use your impact gun to torque nuts and bolts if you use this
handy chart along with your ears and a quick trigger finger.

TORQUE VALUE INGERSOLL IMPACT SNAP-ON IMPACT

25 to 35 ft/lbs BAP! BAP!
35 to 45 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
45 to 60 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BA... BAP! BAP! BAP!
60 to 75 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BA..
75 to 90 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
90 to 100 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

110 to 300 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
(all guns) BAP! BAP! BAP!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 15:56:03 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Gas Prices

Gas war is on - $.88 for 87 and $1.08 for 93 here in San Antonio.

Yee haw :) hehe

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 15:04:21 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: 351's

>From: "Harry Jennings"
>Subject: Re: 351's
>
>> Nope, the BOSS 351 had a cast crank, though Ford
>snip
>
>Oh, I was told they has forged cranks. Still, thet are the
>best 351's ever putinto production.
>
>snip snip
>
>>The weak point of the W is the *too large* mains (around
>> Hot rod mythology. The 429/460 has the same main
>
>snip snip snip!
>
>You are missreading what I am saying. Any of the 351 (even
>the M) can be made to run good on the street. And both the
>C and W can be raced (if built right). OK, I will say it, NEVER
> try to race a M...;)
Even the M?? NEVER????

Now you've done it. Yanked me right back out of lurking (er, working,
yeah, that's the ticket!)

Pish-tah! (and Humbug!!) I race my F250 4x4 351M daily. Why just this
morning on the way into the office I dusted a yuppity little H*nda or
S*baru thingy in less than a half mile! I routinely knock off Ch*vy Vegas
and the occasional Escort (though I let them get a good 50 yard headstart,
just 'cause they're Fords, too, and maybe 'cause they don't have a NP435 to
shift with).

As for running good on the street, I say that's a matter of preference. My
351M runs good on the street and good in the dirt, and now that I've backed
the vacuum advance out to a decent level (4 turns counter-clockwise!), it
runs good w/ no pinging or dieseling either!

Now, if my old M-block was half the engine it was 170K miles ago, it would
take a FLAMETHROWER to this place and toast all you disbelievers and yer
FEs an' 460s an' whatevers an'.... an'.... well, heck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 17:04:42 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: gas prices

i stand corrected. i never been to montana, but i've been to Ca, and along
the whole east coast, to Fl, back to ohio and up to new england, and i
never paid more for gas than in the poconos.

sleddog

- ----------

Gas prices in Montana aren't cheap, they just fell to $1.23, lowest in
quite awhile, and there is a refinery in town! While camping last
summer, I got gas at a tourist trap, $1.60 a gallon! Speaking of gas,
what kind of gas mileage could I expect from a F150 supercap 4x4 with a
300 six? I'm looking for a hunting and camping truck that won't break
me at the gas stations. Thanks for any inputs.

Mark
1978 F150 4x4, "The Great Pumpkin"







+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 17:07:30 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 351's

$ for $ you get more from any big block. except maybe the FT. (i never built one)

the FE and the 385, BB mopar and chevy all give more far the bang for the buck when compared to their smaller brothers. IMHO.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Dave Williams[SMTP:dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us]
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 1998 9:18 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: 351's


- -> > At least until the 5.0 Mustangs came around. It' still damned
- -> expensive > to build an FE but it's still my favorite.

Dollar for dollar you'll get more power from an FE than a 5.0, and
that's a fact, Jack.






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 17:14:09 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 351's

> From: "Dave Resch"
> Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 15:04:21 -0700
> Subject: Re: 351's

> Now, if my old M-block was half the engine it was 170K miles ago, it
> would take a FLAMETHROWER to this place and toast all you
> disbelievers and yer FEs an' 460s an' whatevers an'.... an'....
> well, heck.

Davey, Ya just got to try a 460 before you get to carried away here.
There really is a BIG difference, trust me :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 15:13:22 -0700
From: "Michael Connor"
Subject: Re: 351's

>Davey, Ya just got to try a 460 before you get to carried away here.
>There really is a BIG difference, trust me :-)


Just gotta add a ditto here...:-)


Mike
Phoenix, AZ.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 17:35:43 +0000
From: Garr & Pam
Subject: Re: 351's

Dave Resch wrote:
>
> >From: "Harry Jennings"
> >Subject: Re: 351's
> >
> >> Nope, the BOSS 351 had a cast crank, though Ford
> >snip
> >
> >Oh, I was told they has forged cranks. Still, thet are the
> >best 351's ever putinto production.
> >
> >snip snip
> >
> >>The weak point of the W is the *too large* mains (around
> >> Hot rod mythology. The 429/460 has the same main
> >
> >snip snip snip!
> >
> >You are missreading what I am saying. Any of the 351 (even
> >the M) can be made to run good on the street. And both the
> >C and W can be raced (if built right). OK, I will say it, NEVER
> > try to race a M...;)
> Even the M?? NEVER????
>
> Now you've done it. Yanked me right back out of lurking (er, working,
> yeah, that's the ticket!)
>
> Pish-tah! (and Humbug!!) I race my F250 4x4 351M daily. Why just this
> morning on the way into the office I dusted a yuppity little H*nda or
> S*baru thingy in less than a half mile! I routinely knock off Ch*vy Vegas
> and the occasional Escort (though I let them get a good 50 yard headstart,....


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