fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #141

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Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 19:12:39 -0700 (MST)
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fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, March 11 1998 Volume 02 : Number 141

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Burned Valves [Keith Srb ]
Re: Cleveland ["Deacon" ]
Re: oil pressure was [Kurt Albershardt ]
(off topic) Unibodies, cars, sorry just got to know ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: Big trouble!! ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Tranny options... ["Mike Paz" ]
RE: Cleveland [Sleddog ]
Re: (off topic) Unibodies, cars, sorry just got to know [Stu Varner
RE: Big trouble!! ["Gillespie, John D." ]
Wimped C [am14

chrysler.com]
Ford/Lincoln rear disk brakes [jniolon

uss.com]
RE: Oil Pressure ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Oil Pressure [am14

chrysler.com]
OOOOOPPPPPPSSSSSS [am14

chrysler.com]
Re: Tranny options... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: T-Birds with FE's [Keith Srb ]
Re: OOOOOPPPPPPSSSSSS [Ken Payne ]
Re: Tranny options... [Kurt Albershardt ]
Re: Burned Valves ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Driver seat sag... also how does the digest work? ["Terry Sherman"
Re: Burned Valves [Keith Srb ]
RE:Tiny Rivets [RICHARD_GARBER

HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com]
Re: Tranny options... [marko

helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: 351C and 429/460 [George Herpich ]
Re: Tranny options... [Kurt Albershardt ]
Bellhousing Bolt Pattern [Jim Craig ]
RE: Big trouble!! [DC Beatty ]
RE: 75/76 F-150 Sell It? [DC Beatty ]
Cloyes roller chain [DC Beatty ]
Re: Cloyes roller chain [FoMoCoNUT2 ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 11:26:15 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Burned Valves

What happens when a Valve gets Burned????

Thanks!

Keith Srbherbie

gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 11:14:20 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: oil pressure was

At 08:56 AM 3/11/98 +0000, Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>actually mean that it will never exibit properties of anything
>thicker than 10 wt at any temp or thinner than 30 wt at any temp
>within it's design range. The more spread in the numbers, the more
>additives are required and the more often the oil should be changed
>to maintain it's qualities.

Also keep in mind that the spread is a percentage of minimum and not just
the difference. In other words a 20W-50 is much more durable than a
10W-40, even though both have a 30-point spread. 4x versus 2.5x the
smaller number.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 14:36:08 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: (off topic) Unibodies, cars, sorry just got to know

When did the medium to large ford cars lose their frames? I'm
looking for something to set up for a dirt track car but don't want
any unibody stuff??

Guess I could just go junking and find out for myself but thought I
might save myself some work if anyone knew?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 14:41:01 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Big trouble!!

> Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 18:41:48 -0800 (PST)
> From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
> Subject: Big trouble!!

> Well, I took my truck to get aligned yesterday and the guy was
> telling me that the frame member underneath the transmission was
> bent as was the member underneath the motor. How replaceable are

Again I'm incredulous! Do you have any clue how hard it is to bend
the main crossmember under the engine? The tranny cross member is
probably easy to find and it just bolts in but even that is not
likely to be bent. You better take a look for yourself or get a
second opinion IMHO :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: 11 Mar 1998 11:54:02 -0800
From: "Mike Paz"
Subject: Tranny options...

Subject: Time:11:41 =
AM
OFFICE MEMO Tranny options... =
Date:3/11/98

I was curious what tranny options I have for my EB. I do mostly highway =
driving and only a little fourwheeling. The truth is that I head to the =
beach more than I ever would to the Rubicon.
It seems that the only trannies I can find are all four speeds with a =
granny first which would leave me essentially with the same setup I have =
now, a three speed.
Is there any tranny that bolts up to a 66 ford I6 motor that would be as =
dependable as say the NP435 but give me a high over drive gear instead =
of a low granny type?

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 14:51:49 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Cleveland

- ----------
From: Dennis Pearson[SMTP:dpearson

ctc.ctc.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 1998 9:39 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79

ListService.net
Subject: RE: Cleveland

Ya think the 429 will
make me forget my CLeveland?

- ------------

it's kind of like girlfriends. you won't forget about the Cleveland, but you'll never go back!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 14:05:10 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: (off topic) Unibodies, cars, sorry just got to know

At 02:36 PM 3/11/98 +0000, you wrote:
>When did the medium to large ford cars lose their frames? I'm
>looking for something to set up for a dirt track car but don't want
>any unibody stuff??
>
>Guess I could just go junking and find out for myself but thought I
>might save myself some work if anyone knew?
>
>78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
>78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

Last Time I checked, My 95 model Crown Vicky has a full frame under it.
(Not trying to be a smarty pants)

STU
Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 12:12:01 -0800
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: Big trouble!!

-----Original Message-----
From:Daniel H. Jenkins [SMTP:djenkins

nebula.honors.unr.edu]
Sent:Tuesday, March 10, 1998 6:42 PM
To:Ford Trucks
Subject:Big trouble!!

Well, I took my truck to get aligned yesterday and the
guy was
telling me that the frame member underneath the transmission was
bent as
was the member underneath the motor. How replaceable are these
two parts?
The one underneath the transmission looks like it bolts in; all
I woul
dhave to do is place a jack underneath the transmission. Of
course, the
front one looks a little more difficult; possiblely riveted on.
Could I
just drill out the rivets and replace them with grade 8 bolts?
BTW, it's
2wd.

Dan: IMHO go get a second opinion because after reading your message and
going out and looking at my 66 F100. Both my cross members have some
bend to them and I have not been off-roading in my F100. Again IMHO
the alignment shop was looking to make some extra money at your expense.

John
66 F100, 246-I6
94 Ranger Splash, 4.0 (I hate liters)
82 LTD, 302AOD (Wife's car)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 15:32:08 -0500
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: Wimped C

Dennis writes: >>Ya think the 429 will make me forget my CLeveland?

Yep!!! If you do it right, you'll forget the C.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 14:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon

uss.com
Subject: Ford/Lincoln rear disk brakes

I don't remember who was asking about the versailles rears and disk
brakes.. but there is a excellent article in the April/98 issus of
Popular Hot Rodding...it's a repeat of the article from Street Rodder

and it gives the real skinny on the build up on these "peculiar" brake
units...

must read for rear rotor guys..

john

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 15:48:14 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Oil Pressure

> From: tfmf211

murphyfarms.com
> Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 9:53:55 +0000
> Subject: RE: Oil Pressure

> I know I have to lift the motor to get the pan off. Once the pan is
> off and the oil pump removed, I have no clue on how to drop the
> crank down far enough to slide the upper main bearings into place.
> I also don't know the torque specs for when I button everything up.

Any ford manual will have torque specs for your engine and they're
all the same for a given engine from year to year with few
exceptions.

To get the bearings out and back in drop all the mains a few turns of
the main bolts but keep the caps on till you get to each one and take
only the one off to work on it. The tranny will prevent the rear
from dropping much but it will be enough.

The bearings have a tab on them to prevent them from spinning in the
bores so you need to use a rounded off old screw driver blade to
gently push on the non tab end to rotate it around the crank where
you can get a grip on it with your fingers or a tool of some kind but
be very, very, very careful not to touch the crank with anything but
your clean fingers or the bearing surface or you will scratch it and
destroy your new bearings.

If the crank is scored or scratched you should run some very fine
emmery cloth over the journals to smooth them up as you go, cleaning
the grit up as you go and keeping everything very clean.

Run a clean rag around the crank to wipe out all the oil in the bore
(the block part) so when you reinstall the upper bearing there is no
oil on it at all. This it to ensure good heat transfer from the
bearing to the block and get better clearance readings as well. You
can oil the crank once the bearing is in place to lube the bearng
surface but I would wait till all the bearings are in place and you
have plastigaged them all to your satisfaction at 0.0015 - 0.0025" or
so.

Once all the bearings have been checked for clearance and
upper bearings installed then remove the caps one at a time and
squirt some oil on the bearing side of each upper bearing surface
in each location and a few drops on the lower bearing and put it back
on finger tight till you get them all done. Now progressively
tighten each cap a little at a time till they are all tight and
torque them all down.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 15:54:02 -0500
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: Oil Pressure

ted writes: >>P.S. I drove the truck yesterday, pressure stayed at
about 35 to 40 lbs hot. I stopped at the bank and when I started the
truck up again the guage never even offered to rise above 0 lbs.
Needless to say the truck is sidelined till I
can get it fixed. I may have a bad guage.

Something wrong here. Me thinks you better look closer at the oil
pressure gage, tubing, or sending unit if electrical. If your oil pump
is worn out, or your bearings are worn out, you won't get oil pressure
sometimes and not others when the engine is at operating temperature.
Before you open up that bottom end, make sure you've checked out
everything on top. You may be fixing something that ain't broke.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 15:57:42 -0500
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: OOOOOPPPPPPSSSSSS

Marko writes: >>Now, now. Let's not get on poor Azie's case too
much. Everyone makes mistakes once in awhile and I noticed that he
corrected himself on that right away.

Thanks Mako. Sure had my head up my rear on that one. Getting to
where I can't see, I guess.

Azie
Ardmore, al.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 16:18:46 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Tranny options...

> Date: 11 Mar 1998 11:54:02 -0800
> From: "Mike Paz"
> Subject: Tranny options...

> head to the beach more than I ever would to the Rubicon. It seems
> that the only trannies I can find are all four speeds with a granny
> first which would leave me essentially with the same setup I have

The 4 spd OD used in vans with this engine would be a good choice if
you don't thrash it or the T-5 if it can be converted to short tail
shaft configuration for the transfer case, not sure about that one
but pretty sure the 4 spd was used in 4x4 applications. The ZF is
only available for big blocks as far as I know.

The other option would be the "manual" AOD with non locking converter
which would give you a medium duty tranny with OD in automatic form.
The one I had in my 92 bird had excellent characteristics.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 14:45:43 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: T-Birds with FE's

At 06:41 PM 3/10/98 EST, you wrote:

>I've seen tnem as old as 69 wtih a FE. The owner had five of them so I

>believed him I took it he knew what he was talking about. Anyway what does FE

>stand for?

Ford Edsel (sp?).

Keith Srbherbie

netvalue.net

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie

Mesa, AZ

1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.

1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.

1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long
Box, Style Side.

1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner,

Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.

My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 16:39:02 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: OOOOOPPPPPPSSSSSS

At 03:57 PM 3/11/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Marko writes: >>Now, now. Let's not get on poor Azie's case too
>much. Everyone makes mistakes once in awhile and I noticed that he
>corrected himself on that right away.
>
>Thanks Mako. Sure had my head up my rear on that one. Getting to
>where I can't see, I guess.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, al.

That's why I had a plastic window installed in my belly button.
Helps me to see where I'm going during those ocasions.

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 12:18:33 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: Tranny options...

At 11:54 AM 3/11/98 -0800, Mike Paz wrote:
>It seems that the only trannies I can find are all four speeds with a
granny first which would leave me essentially with the same setup I have
now, a three speed.
>Is there any tranny that bolts up to a 66 ford I6 motor that would be as
dependable as say the NP435 but give me a high over drive gear instead of a
low granny type?

Look for an NP425 (non-granny first with the same form factor)

Also you can up the final drive ratio and keep the granny first to get an
overdrive of sorts.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 17:24:40 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Burned Valves

> Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 11:26:15 -0700
> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: Burned Valves

> What happens when a Valve gets Burned????

It quits sealing and compression goes down............or do you mean
to the valve itself? The valve or seat wears from the physical
contact of the two metal surfaces moving against each other on each
operation of the valve so that it begins to leak. The high pressure
in the cylinder forces the very hot gases past the leak at high
velocity and pressure which concentrates the heat in one very small
area of the valve and seat, concentrating the temp and the scrubbing
action of the gas particles as well which erodes the metal in that
area further opening the leak. Once this process begins it
deteriorates very rapidly untill the engine will no longer fire due
ot insufficient cylinder filling and scavenging.

With unleaded gas and older engines with non hardened seats you have
seat recessing as well which eventually ruines the head.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 16:52:43 -0600
From: "Terry Sherman"
Subject: Driver seat sag... also how does the digest work?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BD4D0E.1C8C9CA0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have that dreaded problem - driver seat sag. How can I fix it without =
spending any or very little money?
I switched to the digest now and I haven't recieved any mailings from =
it!? How often does it come? If possible please repond directly to me =
e-mail at terbear

discover-net.net=20
Thank you,
Terry Sherman
'76 Ford Highboy...
'84 Ford Bronco II

- ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BD4D0E.1C8C9CA0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

http-equiv=3DContent-Type>

I have that dreaded problem - =
driver seat=20
sag. How can I fix it without spending any or very little=20
money?
I =
switched to=20
the digest now and I haven't recieved any mailings from it!? How often =
does it=20
come? If possible please repond directly to me e-mail at
href=3D"mailto:terbear

discover-net.net">terbear

discover-net.net=20

Thank=20
you, Terry =
Sherman'76=20
Ford Highboy...'84 Ford Bronco=20
II

- ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BD4D0E.1C8C9CA0--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 15:39:40 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: Burned Valves

At 05:24 PM 3/11/98 +0000, you wrote:

>> Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 11:26:15 -0700

>> From: Keith Srb

>> Subject: Burned Valves

>

>> What happens when a Valve gets Burned????

>

>It quits sealing and compression goes down............or do you mean

>to the valve itself? The valve or seat wears from the physical

>contact of the two metal surfaces moving against each other on each

>operation of the valve so that it begins to leak. The high pressure

>in the cylinder forces the very hot gases past the leak at high

>velocity and pressure which concentrates the heat in one very small

>area of the valve and seat, concentrating the temp and the scrubbing

>action of the gas particles as well which erodes the metal in that

>area further opening the leak. Once this process begins it

>deteriorates very rapidly untill the engine will no longer fire due

>ot insufficient cylinder filling and scavenging.

>

>With unleaded gas and older engines with non hardened seats you have

>seat recessing as well which eventually ruines the head.

When you say older engines, how old do you mean?? Pre 70's engines ?

When did Unleaded Gas make it appearance?

Thanks!

Keith Srbherbie

HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com
Subject: RE:Tiny Rivets

Jamey,

1st off I'd call Dennis Carpenter and ask. They are pretty good
with that sort of thing.

I think that the channels have not changed much over the years,
with that being the case, Mid Fifty F-100 sells what they call
a rivet installation tool.(53 to 56 trucks)

#81148- tool w/10 rivets $8.00
#81149- w/channel base tool $12.00

Mid Fifty 1-800-252-1956

Its hard to tell by the picture what it is, by the price I'd
say its not much. Looks like the tool fits over the rivet and
you just hammer it down. It also states its alot of work to
rebuild.

When I did my 61 (I think its about the same) I bought the
complete assy. A little more money, but they looked real nice.
Good luck, and let us know how it turned out.

Rich
54 F100

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 15:27:46 -0800
From: marko

helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Tranny options...

say the NP435 but give me a high over drive gear instead of a
>low granny type?
>
>Look for an NP425 (non-granny first with the same form factor)

What is a form factor?

>
>Also you can up the final drive ratio and keep the granny first to get an
>overdrive of sorts.

You mean, change the ring gear in the diffs?

marko in vancouver

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 18:31:46 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: 351C and 429/460

>
> The 351C is not one of the engines I've dealt with very much, but I
> always thought it was forerunner to FOMOCO's "breathers". ie the Boss
> series and the later introduced 429's. Is this not the case????
>
> Azie
> Ardmore, aL.

Azie, The boss 302 and the 429 both predate the 351c.

George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 17:49:47 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: Tranny options...

At 03:27 PM 3/11/98 -0800, marko maryniak wrote:
>>Look for an NP425 (non-granny first with the same form factor)
>
>What is a form factor?

Case dimensions and mounting points. BTW the NV-4500 5-speed OD is pretty
close to the same size (by design)

>>Also you can up the final drive ratio and keep the granny first to get an
>>overdrive of sorts.
>
>You mean, change the ring gear in the diffs?

Yep. If you have 4.11s and go to 3.73s with a lower 1st, your off the line
grunt is similar but your highway RPMs will go down a bit. You'll need to
work the numbers for all 4 gears to make sure you're OK. NP-435 is
6.something:1 first gear, while the 425 is 4.something:1.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 20:45:40 -0600
From: Jim Craig
Subject: Bellhousing Bolt Pattern

I'm not sure what this discussion is on but, in Four Wheel and Off Road
(Sept '95) it talks about big block swaps:
460 is a direct bolt-in replacement for a 351M/400 small-block in
4X4's...Replacing a '71-'78 351M/400 with a 460 is a bolt-in ONLY in
front of an automatic transmission. On manual tranny 400s, the
bellhousing bolt pattern matches the 460, but the 400 bellhousing is smaller
overall. The 400 crank flange is closer to the block than on the
460, so flywheel clearance suffers. Some swappers bolt up a 460
manual-trans bellhousing, but this necessitates converting to hydraulic
clutch linkage.

Then it goes on to advertise L&L. Hope this helps.

Jimbo
77 Supercab 351M
460 Going To The Shop

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 20:50:01 -0500
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: Big trouble!!

I agree. These things are stout. If one or the other were bent I would
think the frame would also be bent and you would know it either by bizarr=
e
tire wear or the truck constantly driving itself off the road. I guess it=

could be true, but it just doesn't sound right to me.

A third opinion for a second opinion.

Drew Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

- -----Original Message-----
Well, I took my truck to get aligned yesterday and the
guy was
telling me that the frame member underneath the transmission was
bent as
was the member underneath the motor. How replaceable are these
two parts?
The one underneath the transmission looks like it bolts in; all
I woul
dhave to do is place a jack underneath the transmission. Of
course, the
front one looks a little more difficult; possiblely riveted on.
Could I
just drill out the rivets and replace them with grade 8 bolts?
BTW, it's
2wd.

Dan: IMHO go get a second opinion because after reading your message and
going out and looking at my 66 F100. Both my cross members have some
bend to them and I have not been off-roading in my F100. Again IMHO
the alignment shop was looking to make some extra money at your expense.

John
66 F100, 246-I6 =

94 Ranger Splash, 4.0 (I hate liters)
82 LTD, 302AOD (Wife's car)

+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79

listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 20:49:57 -0500
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: 75/76 F-150 Sell It?

Brad. =

In CO the emissions sticker is currently only required in 3 or 4 counties=
=2E
If you live way east I think you are OK. I'm in Colo. Spgs., El Paso Coun=
ty
& I need to get the test. Denver county & Douglas county have to take it
too. The Colorado Govt. website has info on this. If you move to a region=

with a required test the truck will have to have all the emissions stuff =
in
place that it was required to have from the factory. In '76 (or whatever =
it
states on the registration) even for the lighter F100 I don't think there=

should have been much. The Chilton manual can tell you.

Other than the under the hood visual they measure the out of tailpipe
emissions (CO's etc.). Even if you do something to it if it burns clean &=

doesn't smoke you should pass. =

Also in CO. if your car is 24 years old you can get "collector vehicle"
plates which exempt you from the test for life or until they change the
law. Leaving anytime soon? =

good luck,

Drew Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

- -----Original Message-----
From: INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79

ListService.net =

Sent: Thursday, March 05, 1998 11:13 AM
To: INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79

ListService.net
Subject: 75/76 F-150 Sell It?

This is a GREAT group I wish I could match even one of you for knowledge =
of
Fords...

I own a 75 390 and F100 body on a 76 F150 4X4 4speed with manual
hubs. I
switched it from an automatic 2 wheel 10 years ago. During this transitio=
n
I also removed as many extra hoses, non-functioning (useless?) parts I
could, plugged exhaust air injection exhaust ports and generally cleaned =
up
the area around the engine.... It ran and didn't seem to affect the fuel
economy, as far as I was concerned I did good.

My problems are; I would like to restore(?)/rebuild this truck an=
d
add
some extra Hp and torque if possible. After lurking about this group I a=
m
now concerned about the emissions produced by this current set up and the=

cost of returning all those lost parts.

Am I worried for no reason?
Would I be better off selling this truck and purchasing an older model? =

Would I be "in regs" by using the propane unit I have laying around?

I live in far eastern Colorado currently, if I were to move I would stay =
in
Central USA.
MT. SD. NE. NM. OK. Sorry for the long post. I wanted to cover as many
bases as possible.

Thanks a bunch......

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