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Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 13:55:37 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #135
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Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, March 9 1998 Volume 02 : Number 135



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Towing The Line, Err Truck ["Chris Hedemark" ]
steering gear [DC Beatty ]
Re: 300 I-6 [George Herpich ]
re: frenched antennas [jniolon uss.com]
Re: Rattling Rocker Arms [George Herpich ]
Re: steering gear [George Herpich ]
Re: Towing The Line, Err Truck [GMPACHECO ]
Re: looking for [Stu Varner ]
'61 F100, Better Bed? [John Strauss ]
RE: Towing The Line, Err Truck [Sleddog ]
Re: Rattling Rocker Arms ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: '61 F100, Better Bed? [Stu Varner ]
RE: '61 F100, Better Bed? ["Gillespie, John D."
looking for [FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)]
Supercharged oldies [am14 chrysler.com]
re:I-6/302 boss head [Bruce Hart ]
RE: Cleveland 4V Heads ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: Converting a pickup to tow truck ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
302/460 swap ["Harry Jennings" ]
Need a 4-speed ["Harry Jennings" ]
351M Intakes ["Harry Jennings" ]
Adding a Spercab to a 1978 f-150 short base stepside [KirkVaughn
Re: 20 mpg AND 500 hp??? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: oil pressure was (Rattling Rocker Arms) [Sleddog ]
Re: Vehicle lifts :-) ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
460 idle ["Mike" ]
Re: Towing The Line, Err Truck ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Frenched antennas ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 460 Idle ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Radius Arm Bushings ["Hogan, Tom" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 06:56:01 -0500
From: "Chris Hedemark"
Subject: Re: Towing The Line, Err Truck

>Chris, and all. Thanks for the info. I talked to the guy I am buying it
>from and he says a tow dolly will work. I still would like to use a
>trailer since it has been setting for 6 years and not registered. I am
>going to be dragging this thing across two states and would not like to
>take any chances.


Just disconnect the speedo cable so you don't rack up unnecessary miles
during the transport, Jon! Good luck and let us know how it goes.

>Does anyone know if a trailer hitch rated at 1,000# tongue/10,000# towing
>will handle a trailer and a 5,000# truck?


A 2 wheel dolly? That should work because the tongue weight isn't too bad
on a 2 wheel dolly. If you were going for a flatbed, you could always back
on to the flatbed and put the nose of the truck on or behind the wheels of
the trailer to reduce the tongue weight (think of it like a see-saw). On a
2 wheel dolly the load on the tongue is VERY little. I towed my Ford Esc*rt
down here on such a beast and could pick up and maneuver the tongue with the
car already on it.

>Chris I live about 45 minutes from you in Raleigh. From your web site I
>see you are a transplant, welcome to the South. We should get together
>sometime and eat BBQ, cole slaw, brunswick stew, hush puppies, pecan pie,
>drink ice tea and talk trucks.


You don't have to ask me twice. I work very close to you in RTP on Miami
Blvd. I've got a couple of favorite joints out this way, but I'm sure you
have a few out that way.

>1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
>1965 F100


We are definitely gonna have to talk. I understand that the above trucks
are (almost) identical to the 66 F100 that I'm getting RealSoonNow(tm)

>1970 Mustang Fastback


I had a few 71's, a 72, and a 73. Mixture of notchback, a fastback, and 2
Mach 1's. One of the '71 Mach 1's is where my 351C-4v came from that is a
*potential* swap into an old truck. I say "potential" because I also have a
'96 Mustang who's 4.6L engine is WAY too slow. I'd like to see if I can get
an old Cleveland engine to run clean and pass '96 emissions standards while
at the same time providing me with the same kind of fun it did in the 71
Mach. They *do* have Ford EFI lowers available to bolt on the Mustang
injection system (out of an 87 to 93 Mustang).

>1993 Escort Wagon (wifes car)


I must use the same disclaimer for our 89 Escort. :-)

Chris Hedemark
Yonder Way
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.yonderway.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 07:23:39 -0500
From: DC Beatty
Subject: steering gear

Does anybody know if a power steering gear from a 1973 truck will swap wi=
th
the one in my 1967 truck? I'm wondering if they are the same part. =


Also, a couple of weeks ago someone mentioned a way to identify a 390 fro=
m
a 360 etc. when the pan is off. Can someone recall how this is done? =


Thanks in advance for any info,

Drew Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 07:29:36 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: 300 I-6

Kurt Albershardt wrote:
>
> I'm confused. How do you put a Boss 302 or aluminum Windsor head on an
> I-6 motor?

The bore spacing is very close on a sbf. To get the bores to line up
perfectly you need to cut up enough heads to make six individual pieces
and then weld the whole mess together. I don't remember if it's larger
or smaller, if the six is smaller you only need two. Still you can
imagine the difficulty and expence.
JP&Dee, shade tree genious on a budget that they were, took
a pare of Boss 302 heads, cut the end two cylinders off one and cut the
other in half. Then welded the two ends to the center part left over
from the other. The result wasn't perfect but close enough. They
eventually got the car into the 8.70 range. They did set the national
record at least once but back then you had to be carefull not to slam
the record because it was used to handicap the races instead of the
index they use today.
Aluminum is much easier to work with and you have myriad heads to chose
from.

George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 06:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon uss.com
Subject: re: frenched antennas


Thanks for the info on the antennas

I can only add...you guys are sick demented and perverted...that's why
I like it here so much..

later

john

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 07:55:29 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: Rattling Rocker Arms

tfmf211 murphyfarms.com wrote:
>
> Well guys,
>
> I put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on my 360 this weekend
> and found the following:
>
> At idle cold, 10lbs
> At idle hot, 0lbs or close to it.

IMHO your whole problem is very likely the oil pump. If you don't here
any knocking
coming from the pan area, and even this would be normal on an aging
motor with almost
no oil pressure at idle, the pump could be worn or the relief valve
sticking or spring
may be weak. Did you see any little black crumbs when you drained the
oil? That would
be your valve seals breaking up. Small pieces can mess up the relief
valve in the pump.
Larger pieces, once there are enough of them to block the screen (could
also be the whole problem), can cause the pickup screen to bypass the
whole mess into the pump, jammind it and causing the drive to twist off.
If you do the job yourself the pump r&r would cost less than $50. Give
it a try. And
if you find valve seal crumbs be sure to change them too. There very
cheap and can be
done fairly easily without removing the heads.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 08:00:24 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: steering gear

DC Beatty wrote:

>
> Also, a couple of weeks ago someone mentioned a way to identify a 390 from
> a 360 etc. when the pan is off. Can someone recall how this is done?

The 360 will have solid piston skirts where the 390 uses "slipper"
skirts (cutouts to clear the crankshaft throws).

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 08:25:15 EST
From: GMPACHECO
Subject: Re: Towing The Line, Err Truck

Does he need to drop the driveshaft? Just a question !

Mike in Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 07:56:16 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: looking for

At 05:34 PM 3/8/98 -0500, you wrote:
>hey guys anyone got a seat out of 1993 to 1996 F150 to F350 the
>40-20-40 type laying around for sale looking for 1 to put in a F250 .


I can put you in touch with a guy in West Tennessee who should have
oooodles of them. Hey buys new take outs from Choo Choo Customs and then
sells them along with rims, rear bumbpers etc. I'll get his number if you
are ineterested. There may be a "logistics" problem depending on where you
are located. I bought my 96 model aluminum FORD rims from him right when
the new 97 models came out. I was very Lucky to get them!

STU
Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 08:03:04 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: '61 F100, Better Bed?

>I am the proud owner of a '61 F-100 4x4 with a style (or lack thereof)
>side long box. The box is trashed and I was looking to put on one I
>have from a '71 but found the wheel base is about 8" longer. That being
>done, with much cursing and swearing, I went and measured my '66, and
>found it has a longer wheel base, too. I am looking to swap for a bed
>that is the full width of the cab and has a real tail gate, instead of
>that dual-latch, chain thing. I do not want to convert to short box
>because I need every inch I can get. Is there any bed that will fit
>these criteria, or am I stuck with the first-generation kind?
>
Yours must be a LWB because I see the wheelbase was increased in 1964 to
128". This is the year that Ford came out with a styleside bed that
matched the cab better and was much better looking. Your bed is actually a
holdover from the 1957-60 models and was used on 4x4s in lieu of the
unibody. It would seem you will need to replace it with the same bed. The
only option I can think of in a factory bed would be a stepside. In either
case you will likely have a hard time finding one in serviceable condition,
but at least you know you have a year range of 1957-1963 to choose from.
Good luck.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 09:16:57 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Towing The Line, Err Truck

sure will, unless the trailer is over 5000#.

- ----------
From: Jon E Purut[SMTP:pickup65 juno.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 1998 11:36 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: Towing The Line, Err Truck

Does anyone know if a trailer hitch rated at 1,000# tongue/10,000# towing
will handle a trailer and a 5,000# truck?



Jon E. Purut
Pickup65 juno.com
JCPurut worldnet.att.net
Web Site Under Construction

1964 F350 Dually (coming this saturday)
1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100
1977 F150
1970 Mustang Fastback
1993 Escort Wagon (wifes car)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 09:34:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Rattling Rocker Arms

> From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
> Date: Sun, 8 Mar 1998 12:08:40 +0000
> Subject: Rattling Rocker Arms

> At idle cold, 10lbs
> At idle hot, 0lbs or close to it.
> At 2000 rpm cold, 45lbs.
>
> At speeds between 35 to 55 mph, 35 to 40 lbs

Main and/or rod bearings with cam bearing not ruled out but less
likely. Oil pump very unlikely but always a possibility.

Rebuild depends on other factors. Is it smoking? Does it leak at
every gasket? Is it over 100k miles or very close to it? Has it
been badly abused either with maintenance or harsh driving?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 08:37:40 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: '61 F100, Better Bed?

At 08:03 AM 3/9/98 -0600, you wrote:
>>I am the proud owner of a '61 F-100 4x4 with a style (or lack thereof)
>>side long box. The box is trashed and I was looking to put on one I
>>have from a '71 but found the wheel base is about 8" longer.

>Yours must be a LWB because I see the wheelbase was increased in 1964 to
>128". The only option I can think of in a factory bed would be a stepside.

There are a few companies out there which do sell kits to build new step
side beds and some that build a complete "ready to mount and paint" bed.
If memory serves, I think a completed bed was approx. $1800.00 but I may be
wrong. Anyone have better info on this?
Stu
Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 06:50:42 -0800
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: '61 F100, Better Bed?

Try Mac's Antique Auto parts http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.macsautoparts.com/
in NY or Dennis Carpenters in NC

At 08:03 AM 3/9/98 -0600, you wrote:
>>I am the proud owner of a '61 F-100 4x4 with a style (or lack
thereof)
>>side long box. The box is trashed and I was looking to put on
one I
>>have from a '71 but found the wheel base is about 8" longer.

>Yours must be a LWB because I see the wheelbase was increased
in 1964 to
>128". The only option I can think of in a factory bed would be
a stepside.

There are a few companies out there which do sell kits to build
new step
side beds and some that build a complete "ready to mount and
paint" bed.
If memory serves, I think a completed bed was approx. $1800.00
but I may be
wrong. Anyone have better info on this?
Stu
Nuke GM!


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 09:59:25 -0500
From: FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)
Subject: looking for

STU
Yes please give me the phone # and address
if you have it thanx .

RANDY :~)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 10:22:10 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Supercharged oldies

Someone writes: >>I remember Packards and Studebakers that were
supercharged in the 50s and early 60s as well as a 57 Ford with a 312cu
in supercharged V8


Remember them well. The best part was that they got as good gas mileage
as the non-supercharged versions if you drove them like you would the
non-supercharged one. Great cars/trucks in the 50's. I must admit
though, I love fuel injection for the driveability during start ups and
warm ups and mileage.

Azie
Ardmore, Al
Born 03/24/37

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 10:48:28 -0500
From: Bruce Hart
Subject: re:I-6/302 boss head

George,I would certainly like to hear more on this mod,anymore
info-Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 11:21:46 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Cleveland 4V Heads

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: EFI V8s
> Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 14:39:29 -0500

> PS- i still am surprised that for an engine that has such
> potential, the 351C has not really been exploited. well, at least
> the heads get used, but many times on a winsdor, called a clevor.

NASCAR tried to use them for a while but found out the castings were
too thin to support the heavy rocker loads and compression they
needed to get the HP. I've seen some special builds on these engines
which used reinforcing rods with nuts to support the top of the head
etc.. The ports are so large there is no room for metal up there.
They work fine on mildly tweaked street engines but when you really
try to get power out of them they break according to several articles
I've read on the subject.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 11:28:02 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Converting a pickup to tow truck

> Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 12:09:32 -0600 (CST)
> From: RL
> Subject: RE: Converting a pickup to tow truck

> The other day walking to my dorm I noticed a 73 and up pickup and it
> was converted to a tow truck but it still had the factory bed with
> out the tailgate. How does one do this and is it safe to do? I would
> assume you could rip the bed off if the tow car was too heavy unless
> it was welded on or something. Thanks Ryan

You run the bolts all the way through to the frame and use spacers to
make it solid. I had a 67 set up this way with a makeshift crane rig
which I could pull some pins to remove. The mounting plates were
bolted to the frame.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 11:14:15 CST
From: "Harry Jennings"
Subject: 302/460 swap

Hello All,

OK, we went through the I6 to a 302 swap. Now my friend (the one which I
helped swap out a I6 for a 302) jut bought a 460/C6. I have never done a
swap such as this. Is there anytcial that needs to be done to get the
engine to hook up? I am sure he will need a bigger radiator and heavier
springs. But is there anything other than that? It is a '78 F-150.

BTW, he also wants to get rid of the C6 and bolt in a 4-speed. However,
he can't find one. Anyone know of any?

Thanks,

Harry.

Visit me at
HREF="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/3271/index.html">my new
web page.


______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 11:16:27 CST
From: "Harry Jennings"
Subject: Need a 4-speed

I have a friend who just bought a 460/C6. He wants a 4-speed. We can't
find one in our area. Anyone know of any? Or is there anyone who has a
4-speed they would want to trade (or partial trade) for his C6?

Thanks,

Harry.

Visit me at
HREF="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/3271/index.html">my new
web page.


______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 11:29:21 CST
From: "Harry Jennings"
Subject: 351M Intakes

Yes Edelbrock offers the Performer (0-5500 RPM) intake.wever, many
people want a Performer RPM (1500-6500 RPM) intake. Edelbrock says the
will not make the RPM intake for the 351M because it should NEVER see
6500 RMPs. The 351M is basically a (tall deck) 351C block with a 351W
crank; the WORST of both worlds. I am not sayng the 351M is junk, but it
is not a *performance* engine. However, it does mgood "Low-End" engine
(which is why Edelbrock makes the Performer for it).

Although I agree that a 351M shouldn't be ran up to 6500 RPM, the
Performer RPM does offer more power at 3500 RPM. Also, power doesn't
kick in as soon (bad for most truck, but good for a *street* truck with
limited traction). I used a Performer intake with a 1" riser and a cam
that (closely) matched the profile of a Performer RPM for a 351C (I
think it was a comp cam, I dont remember).

When I posted the message about a 351C intake not fitting on a 351M all
I was trying do was keep someone from making the mistake of swaping to C
heads and thinking a C intake will then fit. Someone else said there are
adapters for this, though.

Later,

Harry.

Visit me at
HREF="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/3271/index.html">my new
web page.


______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 12:31:39 EST
From: KirkVaughn
Subject: Adding a Spercab to a 1978 f-150 short base stepside

Have a 1978 f-150 4x4...300-6 4-speed granny...short wheelbase (116" i
think)
Stepside.......Scouting a 1976 f-250 supercab for parts....Planning to put the
supercab cab on the short wheel base truck.....this will leave me a 4 foot bed
or so.
I love the supercabs.....rear of the supercab will extend to the position of
the edge of the rear fender......will chop fenders to fit and rebuild the bed
to suit......My main concern at this point is mounting the supercab on the
frame.....Wondering if i need to use existing mount positions on the 78 so i
can have that bed twist that you get .
This will leave the back end of the supercab somewhat (suspended).....or do i
mount it with the existing supercab mount positions?.....the frame from the
supercab seems flatter through the length of the cab....where as the 4x4 frame
does a bit of undulating ....Need for the supercab to sit fairly (flat) on the
frame
Well this is my latest dream project......When i am finished it will look
something like a humm v ford.....Any ideas or comments would be appreciated

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 13:04:48 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 20 mpg AND 500 hp???

> From: "Chris Hedemark"
> Subject: Re: 460 aftermarket
> Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 13:00:39 -0500

> Like you said, it is cheaper to build a 460 to make more power.
> *However* the mileage figures I've heard for the 460 are absolutely
> in the toilet compared to a 500HP blown smallblock (which can easily
> be above 20MPG).

BULL HONKEY DOODOO! You can't even get 20 out of a small block
that's made to get 20 much less one that actually makes power! What
gears do you plan to use to get 20? 1:1 maybe?

A well built, properly geared 460 will get 15 with little special
treatment and comes real close to that range. I'd like to see some
real data on a blown small block that gets 20mpg AND makes 500 hp??

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 13:45:42 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: oil pressure was (Rattling Rocker Arms)

the basic rule of thumb is to have 10 psi oil pressure for every 1000 rpm.
so, if you have 40 psi, engine damage may occur at over 4000 rpm, like a
spun bearing or only excexxive wear. with the low pressure you have i
would think that the oil pump should be checked, and bearings too. don't
worry about cam bearings. they are usually the last thing damaged.

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 14:41:15 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Vehicle lifts :-)

> From: "Deacon"
> Subject: Re: Vehicle lifts :-)
> Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 13:27:07 -0800

> Your building a great shop my friend. My wife tells me the
> reason
> they let us buy tools is the more time we send playing with our
> trucks the less chance we'll think of cheating. (my reply) Hey,

Someone replied that when he spends $3k his wife feels compelled to
do the same on what SHE wants. I've noticed I can't get a bargain to
save my life since everything I buy depletes my account by roughly
double the sale price..............?? :-( Makes a guy think real
hard on what he buys next, eh?

I think sometimes, based on the complaints I get, she might be
happier if I cheated. At least it wouldn't take up as much of my
time :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 14:52:00 -0600
From: "Mike"
Subject: 460 idle

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0079_01BD4B6A.EA1E1AE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi
=20
My 460 in my 1977 F-350 starts up great , then for about 3 =
minuets in cuts out and carries on then after about 3 minuets all of a =
sudden it sounds great. And after you start it and rev it up and when =
it comes back down to idle speed it just dies what is my problem?

Thanks
Mike
whiskers tctc.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~MWargo




- ------=_NextPart_000_0079_01BD4B6A.EA1E1AE0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable






http-equiv=3DContent-Type>




Hi
 

size=3D2>        My=20
460 in my 1977 F-350 starts up great , then for about 3 minuets in cuts =
out and=20
carries on then after about 3 minuets all of a =
sudden it=20
sounds great.  And after you start it and rev it up and when it =
comes back=20
down to idle speed it just dies what is my problem?

color=3D#000000> 

color=3D#000000>ThanksMike
href=3D"mailto:whiskers tctc.com">whiskers tctc.com
href=3D"http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~MWargo">http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~MWa=
rgo

color=3D#000000> 

color=3D#000000>+-------------- Ford Truck=20
Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979=20
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 14:54:00 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Towing The Line, Err Truck

> Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 23:12:14 -0500
> Subject: Towing The Line, Err Truck
> From: pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)

> tow bar?) I will be pulling it with my bosses 3/4 ton Chebby with a
> hitch rated at 1,000 tounge and 10,000 towing. I would like to use
> my truck but right now it is not up to the task.

The trailer is a good idea and your hitch should be capable of
handling it if the trailer wheels are relatively close to the center
of the trailer so the tongue doesn't have to carry too much of the
load. Your steering will suffer long before you over power that
hitch, trust me if the tongue weight is too high.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 15:33:27 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Frenched antennas

> From: GMPACHECO
> Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 10:26:48 EST
> Subject: Re: Frenched antennas

> not lately, so is it possibly to get a motorized antenna in a 72
> F-100 and what is the donor vehicle or do I purchase this through a
> vendor??

I tried to fit one under my bronco passenger side fender where the
original was and it won't fit! #%%$## #$%. There's a structural
member in there exactly in the wrong place so it comes out at an
angle. It will fit but I'll have to do what we've all been
discussing and french the dang thing! Right now I have a $3 rubber
dohicky on there till I get the ambition and time to mess with it.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 15:40:41 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 460 Idle

> From: "Mike"
> Subject: 460 Idle
> Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 15:06:31 -0600

> My 460 in my 1977 F-350 starts up great , then for about 3
> minuets in cuts out and carries on then after about 3
> minutes all of a sudden it sounds great. And after you
> start it and rev it up and when it comes back down to idle
> speed it just dies what is my problem

This isn't a quiz is it? My ford OEM spread bore sometimes does that
and my Holley always did that due to no way to make the choke work
right with the poor low speed metering of these two carbs. Another
problem that crops up is wear in the throttle shaft which allows air
to bypass the throttle plate but at various uncontrolled rates
depenting on where the shaft happens to land when you let off on it
etc.. Basically you need to try to adjust the idle mixture and
perhaps the choke idle speed screw on the passenger side (usually)
which rests on the stepped cam in the choke linkage. You need more
idle speed when cold to over come some of these things but don't want
it when warm so adjust it in the choke linkage, not the basic idle
speed on the driver side or in the dash pot. (if you still have one)
The dash pot could be the problem as well if it fails intermittantly
etc..

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 11:58:32 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Re: Radius Arm Bushings

Had mine done 2 weeks ago along with all of the tie rod ends. The truck
really handles much nicer. The old tie rods would deflect up and down
and that allowed the truck to wander. When the mechanic did it he
removed the "I" beam pivot bolt. The suspension was at full droop with
the shock still installed. With the pivot bolt out he dropped the "I"
beam down and then it was easier to slide the assembly forward to
replace the radius arm bushings. While the "I" beam was out I inspected....

---

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