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Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 16:29:56 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #124
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, March 4 1998 Volume 02 : Number 124



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Disk brake conversion again [Richard Cherico ]
RE: 460 burping the coolant [Sleddog ]
Re: Fuel tanks ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: 460 burping the coolant [Keith Srb ]
'71 FS 800$ Sacramento area [Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY ]
RE: re ring a 390 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: Rattling Rocker Arms ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 100mph rollover in '67 F100 ["Deacon" ]
Re: Disk brake conversion again [Ken Payne ]
3.0L V6 [Ken Payne ]
Re: 351W or 460 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
re ring a 390 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Rattling Rocker Arms ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Rattling Rocker Arms [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Rattling Rocker Arms [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: electronic ignition ["Tero Saarelainen" ]
Re: MORE QUESTIONS ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 100mph rollover in '67 F100 [Gardner ]
RE: piston clearance [Sleddog ]
Re: 390 for '61; [George Herpich ]
re:hot 300 I6 [Eric Strom ]
ADMIN: Decision on advertising on the lists [Ken Payne
Re: 100mph rollover in '67 F100 [Tyler Wilkins ]
Re: electronic ignition ["Kevin Leone" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 12:30:52 -0800
From: Richard Cherico
Subject: Disk brake conversion again

I have one more question concerning the disk brake conversion. Ken says
that you should keep the kingpins from the donor truck, but then states
that if you want your truck handling "like new" that you should get a
kingpin set for a '67-'72, which would obviously not be the donor truck.
Which should I go with? And is it likely that I will need an oversize set?
My local Parts America wants $46.99 for a kingpin set for a '68, plus
$53.99 for a set of brass bushings. Or was it $54 for the oversize set? I
forget. Anyway, the point remains: which year kingpin to use. Any help
is appreciated.
bigric mail.utexas.edu, bigric tamu.edu
'68 F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360 4bbl

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 13:45:55 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 460 burping the coolant

how is that done? i tried laying my 460 over my shoulder and tapping its
back, but all i got was a sore back and shoulder and now i am covered in
old oil, sludge, and grime.

- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 1998 6:37 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: 460 cooling problem

Also, have you ever burped the coolant in the
heads?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 13:47:15 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Fuel tanks

> Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 11:46:46 -0800
> From: Richard Cherico
> Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #120

> tore loose. I felt very safe that the tank remained in a secure,
> protected position.

> >> The cab is the strongest, safest part of a pickup truck,

It's sort of like having an 8' diamond back rattle snake or 14' king
cobra in a bag tied with a ribbon and bow knot behind the seat in the
same situation. Maybe the ribbon will stay on and maybe not but if I
had a choice I'd rather it got loose outside the cab :-)

PolyPropylene tanks are tougher and less prone to cracks etc. so
offer a measure of safety too. I really feel comfortable with mine
in the bronco but as you say it's right against the rear bumper :-(
I like the idea of straps that can break under that kind of load so
the tank doesn't stay with the truck in a serious roll over. There
are check valves available for racing cars that go in the neck of the
tank to prevent spillage in the case of filler tubes coming off.
Seems like they have them on some new cars too??


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 11:50:00 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: RE: 460 burping the coolant

At 01:45 PM 3/4/98 -0500, you wrote:
>how is that done? i tried laying my 460 over my shoulder and tapping its
>back, but all i got was a sore back and shoulder and now i am covered in
>old oil, sludge, and grime.
>

Thanks Sleddog. I needed a good laugh today :)


>----------
>From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 1998 6:37 AM
>To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
>Subject: Re: 460 cooling problem
>
>Also, have you ever burped the coolant in the
>heads?
>

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 10:53:42 -0800
From: Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
Subject: '71 FS 800$ Sacramento area

I've been driving by this truck for a few weeks
and finally stopped to get particulars for y'all.

1971 Camper Special Sport Custom with
automatic transmission, 8000 gross label on long bed.

Needs engine work it says, and no, I didn't check
under the hood to see what was there.

Rest of truck looked in good shape. Hood replaced
with primered one.

530-268-1355 $800

It's actually located in Grass Valley, about 30 miles
east of Sacramento.

This is Ford truck country, lots and lots of them
around, so I don't post for sales often. I just drive
by this one everyday.

Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 13:59:49 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: re ring a 390

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: re ring a 390
> Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 10:03:25 -0500

> .012" is for high performance drag cars with forged pistons. .008
> is usually the high limit for street forged pistons and stock
> pistons are usually around .006" if my memory is working.

Seems like I had up to 0.005" on my forged pistons tops? The stock
cast pistion spec was closer to 0.0035" max as I recall?

I was going to suggest running a hone in there to see what doesn't
get hit and have a shop measure the low spots. If the cylinder is
more than 0.004" out of round at the bottom below the wear line the
block has moved according to one book I read and any more than that
amount of change in the whole bore is too much for the rings to seat
as well without honing to reduce the discrepancy somewhat. I left
some witness marks on mine and it's held up pretty well with 0.0055"
clearance as I recall. Honed with 600 grit at 35 degree cross
hatching with moly rings.

I suspect you'd get one heck of a lot of pistion slap with 0.012"
clearance??

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 14:25:59 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Rattling Rocker Arms

> Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 10:03:06 -0800
> From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
> Subject: RE: Rattling Rocker Arms

> >I'll try the different weighted oil 20W50 and check the
> >cost of the oil pump. I'll change the oil this weekend
> >and let you know what happened.

> 1. You are not running le mans
> 2. Further to 1 above, your engine will never see 7000 rpm

I agree with Marko on everything and add that I do not advocate 20w50
oil in any car or truck engine unless you are operating in death
valley or similar conditions. Oil passages are not affected by wear
so will reduce the oil "flow" with heavy oils reducing the cooling
factor as well as lubrication unless the engine is designed for it.
Most engines are designed to run with farily light oil in the 5w30
range. Try the pump, slap in some bearings if you have to but the
20w50 oil will probably just cause it to die that much quicker IMHO.

If You want real over kill try 90 wt gear lube like I did once. (not
really, it will destroy the engine) It worked for a few minutes then
threw a few more rods so I was down to 3 or 4 still working and I
finally gave up on it since there was no more metal left in the sides
of the block to bolt plywood to to hold the oil in. I was 16 and had
no money or job to get parts so it just had to go to the junk yard
:-( Paid $5 for it and the rods I did put in cost $1.50 each with
piston attached.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 11:21:10 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: 100mph rollover in '67 F100

From: Richard Cherico
>Unfortunately, experience lets me speak on this issue. My '67 F100 met
its
>demise in a 100MPH roll-over collision in which the cab was separated
from
>the frame (with me in it).

Thank God your here to tell us about it. I hope you or anyone else
wasn't hurt too badly! I feel this shows just how well our trucks are
built! Like you, I feel the tank in the cab is safe, I do respect the
concerns of those that don't. I feel we deserve that same respect.
I have heard the bomb in the cab thing for a long time. I don't have
any knowledge of a tank in a cab catching on fire (that's not to say it
doesn't happen). If anyone knows of a case study or personal experience
to show otherwise, I would be interested in reading it. I base my belief
on personal experience and testimonies like Richards.
Later!

P.S. Richard, I truly hope the truck was the only loss you suffered!


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 14:27:51 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Disk brake conversion again

At 12:30 PM 3/4/98 -0800, you wrote:
>I have one more question concerning the disk brake conversion. Ken says
>that you should keep the kingpins from the donor truck, but then states
>that if you want your truck handling "like new" that you should get a
>kingpin set for a '67-'72, which would obviously not be the donor truck.
>Which should I go with? And is it likely that I will need an oversize set?
> My local Parts America wants $46.99 for a kingpin set for a '68, plus
>$53.99 for a set of brass bushings. Or was it $54 for the oversize set? I
>forget. Anyway, the point remains: which year kingpin to use. Any help
>is appreciated.
>bigric mail.utexas.edu, bigric tamu.edu
>'68 F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360 4bbl

This is confusing me too, and I wrote it! The king pin set I have is a
67-72. The 73-79 pins may not line up correctly with the keeper bolt
that slides through the side of the king pin. Same thing with a 65-66,
use use 65-66 king pins. I'll update the guide, its obviously incorrect
(and confusing).

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 14:32:57 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: 3.0L V6

I made a mistake. The 3.0 V6 going into the 86 Aerostar
came out of a Mercury minivan. The engines are identical
except for different intakes. It did not come out of
a Taurus. Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 14:36:04 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 351W or 460

> From: FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)
> Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 10:14:57 -0500
> Subject: thanx

> what i want . would putting a 460 in it be more work? wouild i have
> to change oil pan if it came from a car, or do any front end work
> because of weight of the 460 it drives and handles good now with the
> 351w

It can be more work than replacing the 351W with another 351W but the
few things you need to change aren't too costly. The advantage of
the windsor is it's after market following and relatively cheap
engine mods for more power. The 460 is bigger and more torquy even
in stock trim and has tremendous potential so you have to decide
what's realy important. After market "truck" options for the 460 are
rather limited but if you want to bog it or sled it or drag it
there's tons of stuff out there.

> someone put a drive shaft with a carrrier bearing in it is this
> necessary? can i put a reguler driveshaft in it ? thanx for any help

The carrier bearing gives you better "hump" clearance in the center
off road where a lot of trucks spend a lot of time so you have to
decide what you want. A long single drive shaft will work but will
be vulnerable to being hit by things you drive over and will have to
be farily large diameter to absorb the torque over it's length.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 14:47:49 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: re ring a 390

> From: shoman p3.net
> Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 08:20:38 -0500
> Subject: re ring a 390

> walls?? .10 over the size????How about main and rod bearings what
> size there?? I'm looking to get some more mileage out of the truck
> without going the full blown rebuild$$$ I see re ring kits for $160

I've picked up 50k with a bearing change but it's a lot of work and
if the crank is shot you have to pull it all the way down anyway.
You can get under sized bearings in various sizes but they won't work
with a stock, unground crank. The only solution to this situation
would be to carefully sand about 0.001" off each of the caps, no more
than that to tighten up the clearance on a set of new, stock
bearings. We did this on a 351M and it ran a long time after that,
many years actually. You can't take too much off or you throw the
bore too far out of "match" which will acceller4ate the bearing wear
and if the crank is very badly scored they will just tear out again
as well. The crank was in excellent shape in the above case and we
polished it by hand in the block.

If you decide to go this way give us a ring for the full run down.
If the engine was smoking or using a lot of oil before the knock
started then I recommend against this procedure. The engine we
repaied this way was still running very well and using little oil as
was my 351W with 50k miles on it I ran out of oil one day :-( Only
the bearings were damaged in this case again so I fixed it the same
way and got another 50-60k out of it.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 15:06:53 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Rattling Rocker Arms

> From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
> Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 17:49:06 +0000
> Subject: Rattling Rocker Arms

> Anyways, when I bought it it ran great. No noise and purred like a
> kitten. Well after about 700 miles after it's initial "let's get it
> right" oil change, it started "ticking" on the back of the passenger
> side of the motor while idling.

Ok, I've read the posts on this and IMHO you have worn lifter or
loose rocker adjustments depending on the engine and I don't have
that info in my head.

Most ford engines make some lifter noise when cold and is considered
normal. If this noise goes away when warmed up I wouldn't worry
about it. If the noise is farily loud and sounds more like thin
drinking glass struck against a counter top edge it may be piston
slap which can be a bad rebuild job or just worn out piston skirts or
cyliinders but I wouldn't expect this to show up just due to changing
the oil as I would the lifter noise.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 12:14:26 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Rattling Rocker Arms

>> From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
>> Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 17:49:06 +0000
>> Subject: Rattling Rocker Arms
>
>> Anyways, when I bought it it ran great. No noise and purred like a
>> kitten. Well after about 700 miles after it's initial "let's get it
>> right" oil change, it started "ticking" on the back of the passenger
>> side of the motor while idling.
>
>Ok, I've read the posts on this and IMHO you have worn lifter or
>loose rocker adjustments depending on the engine and I don't have
>that info in my head.
>


I don't think any 360 engine ever came with adjustable rockers though.
These were reserved for the solid tappet engines like the 352 hp and the 390
hp/gt, and I think in some cases 406's and 428's. Definitely not hydraulic
tappet 360's. So your problem can't be valve adjustment unless the rocker
shaft bolt was loose and then it'd hammer thruout and you'd really know it.


marko

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 12:17:45 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Rattling Rocker Arms

One last thing, most FE engines have push-in frost plugs in the oil passages
by the cam plug at the back. These can sometimes tend to leak and, among
other things, muck up your clutch. I wonder if this would bleed off
pressure at the rear lifters causing low lifter pressure back there? I
kinda doubt it cause if it was any more than a seep you'd be putting most
all the contents of your oil pan on the road every fillup. And eventually
the contents of the block as well. But anyway, word to the wise, anybody
rebuilding an FE should take the time to tap these holes and install
threaded plugs.


marko

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 22:39:56 +0200
From: "Tero Saarelainen"
Subject: Re: electronic ignition

I have electronic ignition in my trucks 292. It is called "Piranha" here in
Finland. With it You only need to take off points and condensator, put
sensor assembly in and connect three wires to blackbox and other three
wires from blackbox (two to coil and one to ground). And then adjust
timing. It takes only half hour to do that ghange. If You want, I try to
find who is the manufacturer. I just need to find the installation papers
to check it.

Tero Saarelainen
Finland
teros dlc.fi
'61 & '62 F-100 Unibody
'52 Mercury Monterey
'36 Ford Pickup

- ----------
> From: Jesus Cardoso
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: electronic ignition
> Date: 3. March 1998 23:45
>
> Howdy!
> I am here once again to pick everyones brain. I found out today
> that MSD, Mallory, and Excel do not make an aftermarket electronic
> distributor for my 292. My question is does anyone know where I can get
> one of the conversion kits?
> Once again thank you for everyones time.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 16:12:19 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: MORE QUESTIONS

> From: FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)
> Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 11:15:29 -0500
> Subject: MORE QUESTIONS

> anouther question if i do rebuild this 351w what is a good cam for
> torque? ( want lots of torque) what duration and lift ? dont know
> much about cams i called got price on rebuild kit . to get block
> diped ,linebored ,cambearings, rebuilt crank , and rebuild kit
> $340.00 if i don,t need anything else is this a good price ? should
> i get the heads checked also ? thanx . RANDY 1970 F100 SWB 2WD 351W

Exactly what is being done to the block? Is this your block or one
you're buying? Boring used to be around $8 per hole, align hone
maybe $75, crank $75, rebuild kit $120 with rings, cam bearings less
than $40 for sure, dipping maybe $20.

Is this the one that's knocking or the one that's blowing all the
oil?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 17:00:00 -0500
From: Gardner
Subject: Re: 100mph rollover in '67 F100

Deacon wrote:
>
> From: Richard Cherico
> >Unfortunately, experience lets me speak on this issue. My '67 F100 met
> its
> >demise in a 100MPH roll-over collision in which the cab was separated
> from
> >the frame (with me in it).
>
> Thank God your here to tell us about it. I hope you or anyone else
> wasn't hurt too badly! I feel this shows just how well our trucks are
> built! Like you, I feel the tank in the cab is safe, I do respect the
> concerns of those that don't. I feel we deserve that same respect.
> I have heard the bomb in the cab thing for a long time. I don't have
> any knowledge of a tank in a cab catching on fire (that's not to say it
> doesn't happen). If anyone knows of a case study or personal experience
> to show otherwise, I would be interested in reading it. I base my belief
> on personal experience and testimonies like Richards.
> Later!
>
> P.S. Richard, I truly hope the truck was the only loss you suffered!
>
> Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
> ================================================
> Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

We could be driving around in Che**s with take mounted under the truck
and outside of the frame so when in an accident..KABOOM...They had to
recall those trucks...GM Engineers got thier degree from a bubble gum
machine!
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 16:47:14 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: piston clearance

.012" is a lot, but only is used on high speed forged pistons for truck
pulling, drag racing, etc. not to good for a high mileage street motor.

my TRW forged pistons spec'd .006-.008. i ran them in this last motor at
.0075 to .0085 with .009 in a few spots after a quicky hand hone. but, if
i got 250 miles on it now it would be alot. it usually only runs a couple
of hundred feet at a time at WOT.

the cast pistons max i thought was .006, but like i said my memory don't
always work the way i'd like it too. haven't used a cast piston in a long
time.

sleddog
- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 1998 8:59 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: RE: re ring a 390

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: re ring a 390
> Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 10:03:25 -0500

> .012" is for high performance drag cars with forged pistons. .008
> is usually the high limit for street forged pistons and stock
> pistons are usually around .006" if my memory is working.

Seems like I had up to 0.005" on my forged pistons tops? The stock
cast pistion spec was closer to 0.0035" max as I recall?

I was going to suggest running a hone in there to see what doesn't
get hit and have a shop measure the low spots. If the cylinder is
more than 0.004" out of round at the bottom below the wear line the
block has moved according to one book I read and any more than that
amount of change in the whole bore is too much for the rings to seat
as well without honing to reduce the discrepancy somewhat. I left
some witness marks on mine and it's held up pretty well with 0.0055"
clearance as I recall. Honed with 600 grit at 35 degree cross
hatching with moly rings.

I suspect you'd get one heck of a lot of pistion slap with 0.012"
clearance??

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 17:33:29 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: 390 for '61;

marko maryniak wrote:
>
> >Since the 292 was the V8 option in '61, I would think the motor mounts
> >from the V8 would bolt to the 390 and it would be a drop in. Maybe the
> >I6 stands are different from the V8, but this is a bolt in trhing.
> >
> >Azie
>
> Hey Azie,
>
> My buddy has a 56 ford pu with nothing much in it right now, it came
> originally with a 292 (Y block anyway, not sure on the displacement, has the
> V8 emblem on the hood). He wants to replace it with a good 352 I have that
> I no longer need.
>
> Am I to understand that the 352 will drop in, from your above post? How are
> the castings similar, and how are they different? cd you elaborate on some
> of this stuff for me? Also, how much does a Y block weigh in comparison to
> the "feathery" 352?
>
> Thx.
>
> marko

I once swapped a 292 for a 390 in a '57 Victoria and just bolted the 292
mounts to the 390 and dropped it straight in with the C6. I can't
remember if I had to modify the trans crossmember.
George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 14:42:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Strom
Subject: re:hot 300 I6

Bruce..
I am not sure about a "hot" 300 for towing, but as far as just making one
HOT..
1st... Offenhauser makes a really good 4bbl intake and header.
and 2nd... Balance the hell out of it!!!!
I saw a 300 that must have run 7000 rpm and absolutly smoked a 4v 351 C
but that was in a car...so i have no idea about torque curves with the
modifications...but it is definitly possible to make them go,and go fast!

Berne
strome ucs.orst.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 17:51:03 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Decision on advertising on the lists

I'd like to thank everyone for all the responses I've received
so far. I plan on putting them together into one text file,
posting them to the web and emailing the URL to the lists
this evening. The number of responses has been high and I don't
want to flood the lists with them. Everyone deserves to know the
opinions expressed so they will be on a web page (which won't
have any external links so your comments are kept private).

Although so far there hasn't been a landslide in either direction,
some very compelling reasons for not advertising have been brought
to my attention.

1. Where do I draw the line? If we open the door to this, what's
to stop me from putting an ad on the bottom of **each** post?
2. Doesn't this go against the charter? If we modify the charter
or ignore this portion of it doesn't it invalid the entire
reason for having one?
3. What happens if a user has problems with the advertiser? Can
he openly complain about it without fear of getting on my
"hit list?"
4. What happens if an advertiser has a problem with a user? Right
now, the advertisers know that web advertising is completely
unrelated to the lists.
5. Mailing lists have, for the most part, been the oasis free
from advertising on the Internet.
6 Can I remain unbiased? I would like to think so but I'm only human.

Since reading many opinions, especially those from long time members,
I would have a very difficult time looking members in the eye (virtually
and at the Pigeon Forge show) who have donated money to keep the lists
going. One person even sent $100 this past summer after we got our
(expensive) domain name.

I normally put things like this to a vote, but in this case I won't.
The principle of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" seems to apply.
The lists work, they work well and they certainly aren't broken.
I think that once you read the opinions you'll agree.

Ken Payne
Admin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 17:09:04 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: 100mph rollover in '67 F100

I don't have
> any knowledge of a tank in a cab catching on fire (that's not to say it
> doesn't happen). If anyone knows of a case study or personal experience
> to show otherwise, I would be interested in reading it. I base my belief
> on personal experience and testimonies like Richards.
> Later!
>

I've got story for you bomb fearing Ford drivers......
Being the FORD nut i am about two weeks ago I stopped in a parking lot
where I saw a firetruck and a pretty distraught FORD owner and several
fireman standing around the remains of '74 F-250 Plow truck, the first
thing out of my mouth was, "Wanna Sell it?", seems the owner was plowing
the parking lot when his truck caught fire for one reason or another.
The truck was fried! All the glass had melted, the valve covers had been
burned off so the valves were exposed, the seat was nothing but coils,
there was a hole in the roof! So obviously this was no minor engine
fire, all the paint even on the tailgate as completely gone even though
the fire never made its way across the bed. This owner had been worried
about the gas tank behind the seat thing so he mounted it outside the
cab in the front of the bed, so really he only moved it back 2 inches or
so. It remained full of gas throughout the fire! At the end it was
still 3/4 of the way full as it had been before the fire. Although it
wasn't in the middle of heat as it would have been if in the cab it
still was in some serious heat without incident! The matter of 2 inches
i don't think would have made a real diffence, especially since it was
still directly in fire and heat seeing as he had miscellaneous debri in
the front of the bed which was all burned to a crisp. I would have to
think if the tank was only maybe an eigth of the way full it may have
been different, but still the fact remains, IT DID NOT BLOW up. And I
can't think of any worse conditions that could occur.
There are a few hints that can lessen your risks of blow up to, without
these things may be different. If anybody has any other ideas let me
know, writting this I thought of a few:
-You would really need to go over all your fuel line and make sure you
have all steel lines, I know on my '73 there is about a 5" piece of
rubber line right after the line comes through the floor, if a serious
fire were to occur as above, this hose would melt releasing all the
contents of the tank and eventually allowing the flames up the tube once
the gas had drained, allowing the fumes in the tank to do the whole bomb
thing.(this applies to even under the bed tanks but would be less
crucial seeing as it wouldn't be as big of a deal blew up under the bed
as opposed to in the cab!) Also doing this to the filler neck would be
cruicial to make this effective, along with having a good gas cap.
-Another idea would be a manual fuel shut off switch early on the line
(close to the tank), this again would prevent flames from entering the
tank and doing the whole bomb thing. This obviously would only be
effective if you had time to reach behind the seat and shut it off, but
usually you would on most fires i've seen. This could also serve as an
easy anti-theft device, crackable to a serious theif but they probably
wouldn't bother, the truck would run for a while and then konk, most
theifs won't take the time to figure out why the truck won't re-start,
they'll just bail.

Just my $.02
really like it

Any other ideas?

Tyler Wilkins
'73 F-250 4x4, 360, 4-speed, 33" BFG's
'79 F-100 4x2, 400 (finally a 400! (previously a 351M)), C-6
(the '74's gone, :( )

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 15:28:30 PST
From: "Kevin Leone"
Subject: Re: electronic ignition

Hellow there guys. I've been sitten back and finally found someting to
respond to. I own a 63 f-100 stakebed with a 292 that I have warmed
over.(ported heads, bigger valves, Isky cam, t-bird intake, 4-v autolite
carb, and home-made headers) Anyway, I've been looking for a way to
upgrade to electronic ignition, but haven't had any luck thus far. If
you fellas figure out where I could get some sort of "kit" It would be
of much help.
Also, My truck still has the originall,(YUCK!) cruiso-o-matic 3speed
automatic in it. I am in desperate need of any helpful info. on whether
or not I am going to be able to put a c-4 or something equivelant behind
my Y block and still retain the original engine/tranny mount setup. The
truck has a dana 44 with 3.73's.
Thanks!
Kevin Leone
63 F-100
Y ask Y,
Y-blocks never die!!
>From owner-fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net Wed Mar 4 12:38:53 1998
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>To:
>Subject: Re: electronic ignition
>Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 22:39:56 +0200
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>
>I have electronic ignition in my trucks 292. It is called "Piranha"
here in
>Finland. With it You only need to take off points and condensator, put
>sensor assembly in and connect three wires to blackbox and other three
>wires from blackbox (two to coil and one to ground). And then adjust
>timing. It takes only half hour to do that ghange. If You want, I try....


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