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Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 03:50:25 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #12
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Friday, January 9 1998 Volume 02 : Number 012



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
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with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: brake retrofit, pistons, starter ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: Flex coupling on a '77 F150 2wd [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Pieces and parts [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Pieces and parts ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
1979 F250 rear hub assembly [Charlie Mear ]
Re: Master cylinder retrofit/ Trans ID/ Tire size [Don Grossman
Re: Master cylinder retrofit/ Trans ID/ Tire size [Don Grossman
Re: Flex coupling on a '77 F150 2wd [John Pajak ]
Re: Flex coupling on a '77 F150 2wd [Brian & Jacque Milbrandt
Re: 390/428 Flywheel, balancer? [BDIJXS ]
Re: Flex coupling on a '77 F150 2wd ["Hogan, Tom"
Re: Power brake conversion [Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)]
Cleavland heads on a 351M [Gregg Park ]
Re: 390/428 Flywheel, balancer? [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: 1979 F250 rear hub assembly [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Cleavland heads on a 351M ["Bill Beyer" ]
RE: Looking for Ford T750 (1965) parts [mcat epix.net]
Power brake & Steering conversion [Trs2000 ]
Re: Dual Batteries [Mike Blazek ]
Cleveland intake manifold ["Kevin" ]
Need pictures... [shoman p3.net]
Re: '77 351M vacuum line routing ["Dale and Donna Carmine"

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 12:57:33 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: brake retrofit, pistons, starter

- ----------
> From: marko maryniak
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: brake retrofit, pistons, starter
> Date: Thursday, January 08, 1998 9:26 AM
>
> Hey everyone.
>
> Seems I've been posting alot lately. But I have a lot of questions.
>
> Pistons: The engine builder I've been talking to has suggested I use
> "silvalite" (sp?) pistons, instead of federal mogul, cause they're
lighter.
> Any thoughts on this?
>

Silvolite pistons are just a trade name for pistons made by Keith Black.
You can learn all you want about them at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.kb-silvolite.com/

Good Luck!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 13:04:45 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Flex coupling on a '77 F150 2wd

I have never tried this before but don't see any reason why it would not work:

unbolt the steering gear to lower it enough to remove the old joint and install
the new one. I would recommend that you buy a new joint rather then a repair
kit. ( Remember this is the only thing between you and a tree!!! )

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 13:11:08 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Pieces and parts

The hood should bolt right on. Emblems might be wrong or in the wrong place. I
believe that 99% of the 67-73 parts are the same.

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 16:14:57 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Pieces and parts

> From: "Michael Redden"
> Subject: Pieces and parts
> Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 15:59:13 -0500

> pickup to replace the rusted out one on my '70 F-250. Will the hood
> off a '69 fit my '70?

Weren't the 67 - 72's pretty much the same body metal? 73 they
changed the box to one piece and the cab got a face lift too didn't
it? and the 66 had a completely different front end.............??

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 14:31:27 -0700 (MST)
From: Charlie Mear
Subject: 1979 F250 rear hub assembly

>I am servicing my brakes for the first time on a 1979 F250 with
>full floating rear axles (I assume they are Dana). My question
>concerns the assembly of the hub. I have both the Haynes and
>Chilton manuals, and they differ in the proceedure.
>
>chiltons (for Dana 60 and Dana 70)
>tighten hub nut to 65-75 ft.lbs while rotating wheel
>back off nut 1/4 turn
>tighten to 15-20 ft.lbs
>install lock washer
>no mention of lock nut
>check end-play. no end play is permitted
>haynes (generic full floating rear axels)
>tighten hub nut to 50 to 80 ft-lb
>back off nut 3/8 turn
>install lock washer
>tighten lock nut to 90 to 110 ft.lbs
>check endplay (should be between .001 and .01 inch)
>
>Could someone advise on this? What should I really do to ensure
>proper assembly of the hubs. The hub nut and lock nut
>take a 2.5 inch socket.
>
>thanks,
>Charlie Mear mear udlkern.fc.hp.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 13:35:34 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Master cylinder retrofit/ Trans ID/ Tire size

steve.peters mts.com wrote:
>
>
> Does anybody know if I can directly retrofit a dual master cylinder
> from a '67 F100 (first year of dual) onto my '65 F100, without getting
> into pedal height problems?
>

Yep. The cool thing to do is also grab the brake booster too go along
with it.

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 13:40:00 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Master cylinder retrofit/ Trans ID/ Tire size

steve.peters mts.com wrote:
>
>
> Does anybody know if I can directly retrofit a dual master cylinder
> from a '67 F100 (first year of dual) onto my '65 F100, without getting
> into pedal height problems?

Yep, the cool thing to do would be to grab the brake booster to go along
with it.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 13:51:52 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Re: Flex coupling on a '77 F150 2wd

- ---danadeb pacbell.net wrote:
I have never tried this before but don't see any reason why it would
not work:
unbolt the steering gear to lower it enough to remove the old joint
and install the new one.

>>No, too much work! The joint can be replaced without removing the
steering box. I don't even think the column needs to be removed...just
slide the steering shaft back...it will telescope enough to get the
old joint out. :)

===
John Pajak JSPajak rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

75 F100 360/C6 390 coming soon!
68 Fairlane SW 351W/FMX

65 Delta 88 2dr 70 Cutlass S 2dr 72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31 72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr 70 442 W30 conv 72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr 71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 16:24:37 -0500
From: Brian & Jacque Milbrandt
Subject: Re: Flex coupling on a '77 F150 2wd

Ok...I've changed alot of the rag joints in my day. Usually to a pto
type joint, but they do have a slip shaft, you need to loosen the set
screw in the shaft and it should slide up. Then you can replace it with
ease. I must admit though...most were 4wheel drive trucks. After
installing a 3" bod-i-lift I would get rid of the steering bind by
welding in a small joint. I think the 2wheel version would be the same??

Brian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 17:24:06 EST
From: BDIJXS
Subject: Re: 390/428 Flywheel, balancer?

Hi Guys,

I'm getting going on the 360-428 conversion (I think). Marko, thanks for
advise about the jacket thickness, I'll have it checked out as soon as I get
the engine torn down. Now, a few more questions. I currently have a 390 and
would like to keep the same flywheel on a 428 crank...anyone know of any
problems? Also, how about the harmonic balancer? I'm hoping to find a 428
crank and have it balanced internally rather than externally....any comments
here?

I also was pleased to see the message regarding the fan shroud from Obsolete,
I just installed one as well....

Thanks!

Jeff Schulz
Boulder Colorado
bdijxs aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 14:53:22 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Re: Flex coupling on a '77 F150 2wd

Gary is basically right. Get a new coupler from Ford (I got one about 1
year ago. Right after I got it I was pulled over for suspected DUI.
When I showed the patrol man the slop in the wheel and the coupler in
the glovebox he let me go!!) I wouldn't go with one of the generic
rubber disks from the parts store 'cause they don't fit well. The slop
is caused by a rotted flexible coupling. The reason you can still steer
at all is there are metal safety pins that work on large holes in a
plate on the end of the steering column. The pins provide a safety
backup but don't normally contact the steering column so as not to
transmit vibration to the wheel.

Remove the plate from under the dash that covers the steering column
(Painted the same as the dash.).
Loosen the 2 bolts holding the steering column to the dash.
Remove the 4 bolts holding the column to the firewall.
Slide the column up (back whatever).
You can tighten the 2 dash bolts to hold the column.
Loosen the clamp holding the coupler to the steering box and 2 bolts
holding the rubber piece to the circular plate and replace the coupler.
Reinstall the column.

There is no need to disconnect the tranmission linkage and the job is
really easier than it looks. I can't remember how much the coupler is
from Ford but I thought the new coupler was worth the cost. If anyone
else wants to check their coupler lift the hood and have a helper rock
the steering wheel back and forth. Look at the point where the steering
coulumn joins the steering gear box. If the column can move without the
input shaft moving or if you see the circular plate hitting 2 large pins
then it probably needs replacing.

Good luck

- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 14:34:31 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Flex coupling on a '77 F150 2wd

> From: "MICHAEL THOMAS"
> Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 17:23:07 -0500
> Subject: Flex coupling on a '77 F150 2wd

> I need to know a good way on changing the flexible coupling that
> joins the steering shaft and the p/s gearbox on a '77 F150 2wd. The
> old one is broke and steering is very sloppy!!

Good way?? Just take it off and put on a new one :-) Is the rubber
gone or is it the steel parts? I believe one end has a clamp
arrangement on it to the shaft and the other has a pinch bolt. The
rubber may be rivited to one side, can't remember but if the steel
parts are not damaged and the rubber is bolted in all 4 holes then
it's no brainer, otherwise...................

I believe you have to remove the two bolts under the dash and 4
screws in the floor to pull the column far enough out of the way to
fix it but it's been a while so not sure it has to be pulled back.
There are two bolts with metal backing plates on them which connects
the two sides to each other. These can be taken right out but not
sure about the other two?? Sorry, my brain just can't come up with a
good picture right now :-(

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

- ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:31:20 -0500
From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
Subject: Re: Power brake conversion

I have almost completed the swap I used the entire front end off of a 75
pickup I also used a 75 power booster and master cylinder now my pedal
does'nt have the same height that it did before do I need to get the
pedal from a 75? What else if anything can I do to fix this? Thanks for
the help.

Duke's
Fine 69

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 15:38:08 -0800
From: Gregg Park
Subject: Cleavland heads on a 351M

I=92m going to do the heads on my =9277 F150, w/a 351M.=20
My buddy is trying to temp me into putting the cleavland heads on it. =
I
don=92t think it will pass the smog test if I do. But just in case, =
what
kind of gain might I see with this mod? Would I have to go to a bigger
carb than the stock 2150 2V?=20
Thanks,
Gregg

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 15:52:47 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: 390/428 Flywheel, balancer?

>Hi Guys,
>
>I'm getting going on the 360-428 conversion (I think). Marko, thanks for
>advise about the jacket thickness, I'll have it checked out as soon as I get
>the engine torn down. Now, a few more questions. I currently have a 390 and
>would like to keep the same flywheel on a 428 crank...anyone know of any
>problems? Also, how about the harmonic balancer? I'm hoping to find a 428
>crank and have it balanced internally rather than externally....any comments
>here?

Jeff:

If you have a 428 crank, you should also get the flywheel or flexplate, and
the balancer. 352-360-390 are internally balanced, and 410-428 cranks are
externally (detroit) balanced with counterweights on the flywheel and a
weighted balancer/pulley in front. Since 352-360-390 are internally
balanced, you have to use a neutral-balance flywheel.

My 410 was in an automatic, going into a 4-speed application. My engine
builder told me to keep the flexplate and leave it on so that he would have
an idea how much it was counterweighted and in what position. This makes
his job easier when he goes to counterweight the 360 flywheel that I am
going to give him so I can put the 410 in my 4x4. I have the front
balancer/pulley for the 410 as well. The shop guy told me that it'd cost me
a mountain of money to balance the 428 internally (>$500) and that, for all
but Daytona, Detroit balance if done properly can be made as smooth as glass
anyway. Make sure when you go to get the balancing done that you include
the clutch and pressure plate as well. This way you'll have the smoothest
engine going.

My advice: find a Montego/Monterey/whatever they called it Mercury wagon
from 66 or 67, full size. They came with two engines, 410 and 428, and
Autolite 4100s. If you sniff around, you're bound to find one rusting away
somewhere in somebody's field, as the cars were a horrible design with great
flat spots all over the place for water to sit and create rust (although
they looked really cool!) I picked mine up, MINT carburetor and all, with
running 410 engine and decent C-6, for $400 Canadian, being, as I've been
told, the price of a carton of milk in your dollars. This'll save ya lotsa
hassle and you'll have all the spare parts you need. And if you find one
with a 428, boy will you ever be laughing!

marko in vancouver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 15:59:19 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: 1979 F250 rear hub assembly

>
>>I am servicing my brakes for the first time on a 1979 F250 with
>>full floating rear axles (I assume they are Dana). My question
>>concerns the assembly of the hub. I have both the Haynes and
>>Chilton manuals, and they differ in the proceedure.
>>
>>chiltons (for Dana 60 and Dana 70)
>>tighten hub nut to 65-75 ft.lbs while rotating wheel
>>back off nut 1/4 turn
>>tighten to 15-20 ft.lbs
>>install lock washer
>>no mention of lock nut
>>check end-play. no end play is permitted
>>haynes (generic full floating rear axels)
>>tighten hub nut to 50 to 80 ft-lb
>>back off nut 3/8 turn
>>install lock washer
>>tighten lock nut to 90 to 110 ft.lbs
>>check endplay (should be between .001 and .01 inch)
>>
>>Could someone advise on this? What should I really do to ensure
>>proper assembly of the hubs. The hub nut and lock nut
>>take a 2.5 inch socket.
>>
>>thanks,
>>Charlie Mear mear udlkern.fc.hp.com
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

I say split the difference, and forget measuring end play (make sure you
give it a good wiggle and a listen). We used to fix 'em on highway trucks
by tightening the inner nut to 100 pounds and backing it off 1/8 - 1/4
turn, then putting on the lockwasher and the outer nut, then tightening the
outer nut, with final tightening via Huey (4lb hammer) and cold chisel. The
object is to seat the bearing properly (align it) then relieve tension
without unseating it. And to put the outer locknut on tight enough that it
isn't gonna fly off and hurt somebody or you. You need to ensure that when
you tighten the outer nut, you do not turn the inner nut. So keep turning
the wheel with your hand (you'll still have the axle out at this point so it
shud be real easy, back the brakes off if you need to) and as you tighten
the outer nut you'll notice if you are creating drag by over-tightening.


marko

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 16:22:24 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Cleavland heads on a 351M

I may have to be corrected on this and I'm sure that Dave R. will, but you
already have "Cleveland" heads on your 351. The difference is that you have
the 2V heads with smaller intake passages vs. the 4V heads which have much
larger diameter passages. The larger passages are actually better for high
RPM than for typical street driving. The smaller passages typically give
more low end torque which is better for the street. IMHO I think you would
be better served by having your existing heads "cleaned up" by a shop that
knows what they're doing and putting an aftermarket manifold and 600 cfm 4V
carb.

- ----------
> From: Gregg Park
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Cleavland heads on a 351M
> Date: Thursday, January 08, 1998 3:38 PM
>
> Im going to do the heads on my 77 F150, w/a 351M.
> My buddy is trying to temp me into putting the cleavland heads on it. I
> dont think it will pass the smog test if I do. But just in case, what
> kind of gain might I see with this mod? Would I have to go to a bigger
> carb than the stock 2150 2V?
> Thanks,
> Gregg
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 98 19:24:32 PST
From: mcat epix.net
Subject: RE: Looking for Ford T750 (1965) parts

When you say wings, do you mean the fender extentions between the main
fender and the running board or the piece between the cab and the running
boards? I have access to a truck yard that has T750s in it of that
vintage, and might be able to help.
Garry
- --- On Thu, 8 Jan 1998 20:47:03 +0100 Gilles Hemberg wrote:

>Hi,
>
>I am looking for a place to get parts for an old Ford T750 truck. It is
an
>industrial vehicle with a hydraulic crane mounted on its back.
>
>The model is dating from 1965 and I could find absolutely no reference to
>this truck on any search engine so far. I have contacted Mr. FoMoCo;
>CGFordParts and a few others with no luck so far.
>
>I need parts for bodywork that is beginning to rust. I already found 1
part
>at CGFordParts, but that just isn't enough. I need 2 more: the front-left
>and front-right wings. I have the catalog numbers in case anyone is
>interested.
>
>Bye!
>
>__/ Data \_______________________________
> | Fido 2:291/1934 - ANA 180:1000/0 (NC) |
> |---------------------------------------|
> | e-mail: apa ldg.net |
> | WWW : http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.chbbs.home.ml.org |
>
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

- -----------------End of Original Message-----------------


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Name: Garry
E-mail: mcat epix.net
Date: 1/8/98 Time: 7:24:32 PM

427 Fe powered 56 F-100 Wild by design
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 20:37:51 EST
From: Trs2000
Subject: Power brake & Steering conversion

I am also interested in a power brakes and steering conversion.
I have a 66 f100 (not a 4x4)

Could anyone tell me what models and years I could salvage the parts to
convert my truck to power brakes and power steering?

What parts would I need for the conversion?

Also, what king pins are better to use the nylon bushings or metal bushings?

Thanks in advance
Trs2000

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 20:55:57 -0600
From: Mike Blazek
Subject: Re: Dual Batteries

Hi Tom;

A buddy of mine had a Camper Special with the dual battery setup,
and it was a factory install. The second battery was used to power
the camper; it was attached to an isolator that allowed the alternator
to charge both batteries, but a discharge on one doesn't affect the other.
The premise was that if you killed the camper battery, you could still get
home with no trouble.In fact, as of a few years ago, the auxillary battery
tray was still available from Ford. I bought one and used an aftermarket
isolator to power my ham gear. Look close at your fender apron and you'll
probably see the dimples that marked the mounting holes.

Mike




Hogan, Tom wrote:

> I've seen some 72-73 trucks with dual battery setups. Usually setup as
> a heavy duty camping rig. Is this a factory setup? I can't find any
> reference in the factory manuals. What is the advantage to two
> batteries? Is it worth the expense/headache? Was this something that
> had more value 20 years ago but less payoff now with advances in battery
> technology?
>
> Tom H
> San Francisco, California
> 76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
> 96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 21:23:52 -0600
From: "Kevin"
Subject: Cleveland intake manifold

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BD1C7B.B7F9D2C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Anyone got a Cleveland intake manifold you do not need?
I'm looking for a single or duel plane, for a good price.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BD1C7B.B7F9D2C0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable






http-equiv=3DContent-Type>



Anyone got a Cleveland intake =
manifold you do=20
not need?
I'm looking for a single or duel =
plane, for a=20
good price.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BD1C7B.B7F9D2C0--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 22:23:14 -0800
From: shoman p3.net
Subject: Need pictures...

I'm looking for good pictures of 1967-1972 Trucks for my web page...
I'm dedicating my page to those years...Anybody with a good shot
of there truck and wouldnt mind it on a site email it to me...
Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 22:14:23 -0600
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Re: '77 351M vacuum line routing

>I have a complete vacuum diagram for a '79 351M if you'd like me to send
>ya a copy,

Good luck Greg! I recently went through the exact same problem on my '79.
I didn't have the emissions calibration number and I knew that the vacuum
lines weren't hooked up right and the nipple was broken off one of the PVS....


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