fordtrucks61-79-digest Saturday, February 28 1998 Volume 02 : Number 117



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: 1968 F10 [George Herpich ]
Re: oil bath remedy?? [George Herpich ]
Re: Thunderbird Special? [George Herpich ]
Stu's F-100 Dilemma [BDIJXS ]
Re: Stu's F-100 Dilemma ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Derusting -chemical, electrolysis [JRFiero ]
302 Swap update [Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)]
Re: Derusting -chemical, electrolysis ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 302 Swap update ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Derusting -chemical, electrolysis ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Tail gate windows? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: EFI ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Re: 1968 F10 [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: 302 Swap update [danadeb pacbell.net]
460 cooling problems ["Mike & Evan" ]
Re: 460 cooling problems [Mike Schwall ]
Re: 302 Swap update ["Deacon" ]
Re: 460 cooling problems [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: 302 Swap update [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Hood Hinges [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: 302 Swap update [danadeb pacbell.net]
Our list in a nut shell! [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re:Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios [Kurt Albershardt ]
Re: Re:Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios [Kurt Albershardt ]
Re: Personality Traits [Kurt Albershardt ]

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Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 06:50:41 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: 1968 F10

Ray J wrote:
>
> I have newly acquired 1968 F100 with 360 engine. Where can I get manuals for this truck?

Pick up a copy of Hemmings Motor News. There are many sources for
manuals and parts and services of all kinds.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 07:13:28 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: oil bath remedy??

>
> So, I spent my day motor shopping. I found a 390 2bbl sitting in a '68
> Fairlane 4 door. The guy who has it owns a tire shop and needs to get rid
> of it 'cause he lost his storage space. He wants $450 for the motor
> (complete with alternator, pwr steering pump, carb, etc.)
>
> It's real clean looking for an old motor. The only thing I can see that's
> been leaking is the head cover gaskets, but that's pretty standard. I
> couldn't tell by looking at the gaskets if it has had a rebuild on it or
> not. The car was real clean for its age too except the trunk was rusted
> out, so it looks like it was taken care of wherever it came from.

Pull one of the valve covers. If you find thick sludge covering
everything, pass on
it. If it was well cared for and had regular oil changes, everything
will look clean
or slightly stained brown. In many cases, toward the end, the owner
loses interest
and starts neglecting it. In this case there may be a little build up
but probably is
not too late to save it.
On your present motor, Have you checked the carb spacer plate to make
sure the port
where the pcv hose connects isn't clogged or restricted? With that much
blow-by
you surely need a new engine but maybe this would buy you a little time.

George

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 07:52:46 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: Thunderbird Special?

>
> Everybody probably knows by now that I have been trying desperately to
> find out what was the original 'holder' of my '61 FE 390 V-8. (I plan
> on swapping it into a '63 F-100 2WD Unibody.)

>
> Well, the other day (at the request of my better half) I began
> organizing the rest of the engine parts and stumbled upon the Head
> covers. They clearly read "THUNDERBIRD" imprinted across the rusted
> chrome top.
>
> Does this mean that it (most likely) came out of a '61 Thunderbird
> Special?

Do the valve covers have a decal that says "Thunderbird Special". All
390's(I think)
Thunderbird embossed in the valve cover but the Tbird special would mean
hi performance.
375 hp in '61. Does it have adjustable rocker arms and solid lifters? If
not, and it is a '61, it's a 300 hp.
If it were a '63 it will have a cam retaining plate held by two bolts.
Earlier blocks used a spring and thrust button that contacted the front
cover to retain the cam.
If you have solid lifters and no decals it could also be a police
interceptor' 335 hp.
Are the valve covers really chrome, or just rusted steel? If chrome,
their probably not original anyway.
If you use this block, be sure that the main bearing caps were numbered.
If they
were'nt, be sure to have the mains align-bored.
As far as mods go (from your other post), you can't go wrong with
Edelbrock's cam, manifold and carb combo in either the performer or
performer rpm model. If you have
a solid lifter block forget the performer cam, you're stuck with solids.

George

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 08:56:19 EST
From: BDIJXS
Subject: Stu's F-100 Dilemma

Hi Stu,

If you are going with the relatively small tires, you might consider option
#4. If you are going to all of this work, you will want the power steering FOR
SURE. Depending on the details of your current front axle, there are a lot of
good reasons to update to the 78-79 Bronco or 78-79 F-150 front end. The
reason I recommended the Bronco front end is that you should be able to find
one with the quad front shock setup, a real plus when you have the coil lift
kit. Also, it took Ford until 78 to finally get the right combo of tie rods
and front axle on the F-150's.

A lot of these Bronco's also came with a swaybar, which brings me to a
question for Gary. On your frame mount for the swaybar, are there studs welded
to the frame, or some kind of bolted-on bracket? I have the whole bar and the
vertical mounts with the bushings, but obviously my frame isn't equipped with
whatever frame mounts are required and therefore I'll need to figure how to
make them.

Stu, when you decide on which way to go, let me know, and I think I can help
you since I've been through this a couple of times...

Colorado Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 09:09:12 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Stu's F-100 Dilemma

> From: BDIJXS
> Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 08:56:19 EST
> Subject: Stu's F-100 Dilemma

> a question for Gary. On your frame mount for the swaybar, are there
> studs welded to the frame, or some kind of bolted-on bracket? I have
> the whole bar and the vertical mounts with the bushings, but
> obviously my frame isn't equipped with whatever frame mounts are
> required and therefore I'll need to figure how to make them.

I think it's a plate with a lug on it with two bolts holding it to
the frame but not sure right now. It may just be a bolt but for what
it does there's no reason you couldn't use a grade 5 bolt and nut
what ever size the rubber in the upper link takes, put a washer on
each side of the rubber and double nut it. Slip the bolt in from the
back and tighten it with a nut, securely, then the washer, rubber,
washer and two nuts. Since it takes a fair share of the single
wheel jounce it needs to be pretty strong and solidly mounted but I
think the frame steel is strong enough by itself to mount it this
way. If in doubt, add a washer under the bolt head and nut for more
support.

I'm actually looking at the possibility of reversing it so the links
go to the axle instead like the Ch**y's for better ride quality (less
unsprung weight). This is, of course, on the bottom of my list right
now but it's on the list :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 09:24:19 EST
From: JRFiero
Subject: Derusting -chemical, electrolysis

Mornin' -
I've been derusting and plating and painting various pieces of my '51, so I
thought I'd share some experience, and ask some questions.
First there was the vinegar use, subject of posts back in January. Vinegar
works, slowly. Doesn't clean off paint, doesn't clean off oil, but it reacts
away the rust.
Hydrocloric acid (Muriatic acid). Works great, but this is nasty stuff. I
quit using it after a couple times, even dilute. I had it outside, with a fan
to blow away the corrosive fumes, wearing a respirator, and it still scared
me. I also didn't dilute/neutralize it quite enough before pouring it down
the soapstone laundry sink, so the soapstone's not what it once was.
Phosphoric acid, as in Naval Jelly. Ho hum. Just tried it a little on
steering gearbox end/side plates, not impressed.
Oven cleaner. Not bad. Takes off the paint and grime nicely. I need to do
a little more experimenting with this stuff.
Drain cleaners. Haven't tried them yet. Anyone?
Electrolysis. There was a URL in a post back in September,
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.physics.adelaide.edu.au/~awilkins/wood/electrolysis.html, which,
with its links, details a safe-looking electrolysis method of rust removal.
Has anyone tried this? I'll get around to it. Looks promising for large
parts, like a completely rust covered fan shroud I have waiting.
Plating, Eastwood plating kit. This seems to work pretty well, but I can't
yet speak for the durability of the plated parts. It uses a sulfuric acid
electrolyte, an unnamed annode, and a dry cell battery. Only takes 4 - 5
minutes to plate a part. Comes out a dull silver, which you can polish to
look like shiny silver. Not chrome, not advertised to look like chrome. If
you plate male and female threads a little too much, they start to conflict on
assembly! Parts have to be ABSOLUTELY clean, however.
I've come to the conclusion that for ordinary nuts and bolts, I'm just going
to go buy the stainless equivalent. All this cleaning and plating just isn't
worth it. That said, the sets of fasteners I've cleaned and plated are: the
funny little carraige bolts which hold the trumpet horns together; exhaust
clamp bolts on my Ducati; and the bolts which hold the plates on my steering
gearbox. None of them are standard fasteners.
So what does everybody else do?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 09:31:40 -0500
From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
Subject: 302 Swap update

Well I finally got this motor in and mounted. I went with the rear
mounting holes for the frame mounts and the 302 mounts which put the
motor 2.5 inches forward of where it was. The trans. was also 2.5 inches
forward I found that the trans. crossmember had slotted holes but did
not give me enough so I drilled new holes in the frame and bolted it
down. I turned everything everywhich way but things just did'nt seem to
fit no matter how I turned them it was still 2.5 inches off. I have also
found that the center carrier bearing for the driveshaft has a homemade
mount which leads me to believe the driveshaft has been changed
therefore I am going to have to have it lengthened 2.5 inches. I am
installing an Edelbrock 600 CFM carb. and the throttle hooks up on the
drivers side where on the 240 it hooked up on the passenger side what
are some good ways and materials to make the linkage out of? Thanks for
all of the help will update again.

Duke's
Fine 69
F-100
302

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 10:23:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Derusting -chemical, electrolysis

> From: JRFiero
> Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 09:24:19 EST
> Subject: Derusting -chemical, electrolysis

> I've been derusting and plating and painting various pieces of my
> '51, so I
> thought I'd share some experience, and ask some questions.

> Phosphoric acid, as in Naval Jelly. Ho hum. Just tried it a
> little on steering gearbox end/side plates, not impressed.

Works very well and converts rust (iron oxide) to phosphorous
compound which doesn't flake or fall off so is a stable surface for
painting but must be carefully degreased and cleaned with some other
method first. No acid solution will work on a surface with any kind
of grease film or other greasy dirt on it. Phosphoric acid prep is
designed to work on light surface rust only, not accumulations.

> Oven cleaner. Not bad. Takes off the paint and grime nicely. I
> need to do a little more experimenting with this stuff.

This in not acid but a base (chemically) like NaOh which is a very
good degreaser and also attacks any thing else in it's path. Very
agressive against aluminum and magnesium and shouldn't be used on
them but tends to pickle steel preventing rust (for short periods at
least)

> Drain cleaners. Haven't tried them yet. Anyone?

Same as oven cleaner and just as dangerous. Wear rubber gloves and
be carefull no to splash it on you and wipe up any spills immediately
with water to dilute it.

> Electrolysis. There was a URL in a post back in September,

Sounds expensive to me, other methods probably work as well for less
cost and you can do them yourself.

> Plating, Eastwood plating kit. This seems to work pretty well,
> but I can't
> yet speak for the durability of the plated parts. It uses a
> sulfuric acid electrolyte, an unnamed annode, and a dry cell
> battery. Only takes 4 - 5 minutes to plate a part. Comes out a
> dull silver, which you can polish to look like shiny silver. Not

Probably Cadmium, commonly used on hardware bolts to preven rust and
one of the simplest processes. Good coating but soft so not as
durable (or expensive) as chrome. You only get a few mils in 3 - 5
minutes. Leave in longer for more thickness. Surfaces must be
absolutely clean and degreased with no residue for this to work well.
Pre etching with sulpheric acid is a good idea too but rinse it well
in distilled water before plating and don't touch it with fingers or
other greasy tools when transfering or otherwise handling the parts.

> to go buy the stainless equivalent. All this cleaning and plating
> just isn't worth it. That said, the sets of fasteners I've cleaned
> and plated are: the funny little carraige bolts which hold the
> trumpet horns together; exhaust clamp bolts on my Ducati; and the
> bolts which hold the plates on my steering gearbox. None of them
> are standard fasteners.

Stainless is good for corrosion but be aware that most stainless
fasteners do not have the strength or thread durability of typical
engine or automotive fasteners (grade 8). For sheet metal or trim it
would be a good choice but remember stainless is enough different
from mild steel that electrolisys is a possibility if not proteced
with washers and anti-sieze etc. depending on the grade. A good salt
water, sail boat grade would probably be safe enough.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 10:36:50 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 302 Swap update

> From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
> Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 09:31:40 -0500
> Subject: 302 Swap update

> and the throttle hooks up on the drivers side where on the 240 it
> hooked up on the passenger side what are some good ways and
> materials to make the linkage out of? Thanks for all of the help
> will update again.

Can you turn the bell crank around so the linkage lines up on the
driver side? If not just about any hardware grade rod will work for
throttle linkage but you should use half hard 4140 (chrome moly) for
shifting or clutch linkages for more bending strength. Tool and die
shops, steel ware houses and some industrial mill supply houses have
this in various sizes. As a last resort you can use cable but I've
never liked the "feel" of cable systems.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 11:10:12 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Derusting -chemical, electrolysis

> From: JRFiero
> Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 09:24:19 EST
> Subject: Derusting -chemical, electrolysis

> Electrolysis. There was a URL in a post back in September,
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.physics.adelaide.edu.au/~awilkins/wood/electrolysis.html,
> which, with its links, details a safe-looking electrolysis method of
> rust removal. Has anyone tried this? I'll get around to it. Looks

Just read the information on the web site you mentioned and what they
are doing is using a modified plating method using a "base"
electrolyte instead of acid. Looks like he is using a mild solution
of calcium hydroxide. Potassium Hydroxide (lye, drano etc.) would
probably work just as well. The current supplied by the charger
ionizes elements in the cathode and annode and uses the calcium as a
go between by changing affinities for certain atoms etc. (any
chemists out there? I'm going to choke here) The materials in the
stainless cathode (I think?) replace the oxygen in the iron oxide
with ferrous materal (called reducing) which essentially returns it
to iron but any materal which has already detatched from the parent
metal flakes off even though restored so this materal is lost in any
case.

The idea is that there is less metal loss with this method than
typical cleaning methods so would be good for sheet metal parts but
only made of ferrous materials. Remember that any aluminum alloy or
basically white metal alloy will be eaten up by any of the
electrolytes mentioned including acids and all subjects must be
cleaned to some extent before hand.

The reason he stated he found he didn't have to clean the parts is
that the base electrolyte is a natural degreaser but it reacts with
the grease producing stable materials which will no longer react so
it is no longer availabe for the reaction so stronger solutions would
be required in that case.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 15:25:54 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Tail gate windows?

Anyone ever see a tail gate window just give up the ghost for no
reason? I went out the other day and mine was toast. No sign of
theft or accident, no dead birds in the back etc.???

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 15:29:28 -0600
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Re: EFI

harry said;
>and droped in a 351SVO crate engine and a AOD from TCI. The EFI is a
>"generic" universial kit from Edelbrock. I would like to upgrade to a
>GT-40 style setup from a late model mustang someday. That will have to
>wait, though.

Thanks Harry......sounds like a real nice ride!

later,
dale c

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 14:36:20 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 1968 F10

Contact Ed at "Abajo, Ed" he just purchased from Helm a
NEW shop manual set for 50 bucks or so ( I paid 125 bucks for USED :( ) He
should have the address URL or something.

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 15:25:32 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 302 Swap update

I was at the wrecking yard today and they had a bunch of trucks. 2 were 67-73s
one had a I 300 with manual trans and one had a 302 with manual trans. there
were alot of 74-up worth 302s and 390s etc.

Some things I noticed was that the engine mounts were NOT all the same. There
was a 78ish with 302 and the mounts leaned backwards alot as compared to the
68ish with 302. the 68ish 302 looked like the 74-up 390 mounts.

The 67-73 engine cross member appeared to be about a foot wide whereas the 74-up
seemed to only be 8 inches or so.

The front of the oil pan on the 67-73 302 was about flush with the front of the
cross member.

The clutch pivots all looked the same 67-79 and were mounted in the same general
location. Only one set of holes in the frame.

There was a truck with what looked like a home made center drive shaft support
bracket, It looked like:


( mount on frame )
|-|
- -------|-|--------
- -------|-|--------
- - (bolt) -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - (bolt) -
- -------|-|--------
- -------|-|--------
|-|
|-|
( Center Support Bearing Retainer)


There were two holes on the frame for the trams mount cross member about an inch
apart.


I am starting to think that the trans should mount in first where it fits stock
then keep searching for engine mounts that fit ( contrary to what I said before
)


Hope any of this helps.

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Mar 1998 07:38:55 -0600
From: "Mike & Evan"
Subject: 460 cooling problems

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0037_01BD44E5.3063FA60
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I was wondering if you all can help me out with the cooling system =
in my truck. I have a '75 F-250 4x4 that I recently put a 460 in. The =
problem is that it begins to overheat after driving 5 or so miles at =
highway speeds. I put on a new water pump when I put the motor in, and =
a new 180 degree thermostat today, and a new fan clutch a few weeks =
back. The antifreeze is fine and the thermo. works fine, but my =
factory gauge will still show above H for a while then come down to =
normal, then go up again.
Any ideas? Do I need a flex fan, or high volume water pump, or =
electric fans? I assume the water pump is working OK, is there any =
easy way to test it? Doesn't make any noise.
Could it be the sending unit? I believe the sending unit off my 360 =
was put on the 460 in order to use my factory gauge. Any way to test =
that? The gauge moves fine, could it be showing hotter than it really =
is?

Please help, I don't want to screw up a good engine that I just =
spent alot of money on to put in.

Thanks for your help!

Mike Vonhof
yasky netins.net

- ------=_NextPart_000_0037_01BD44E5.3063FA60
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable






http-equiv=3DContent-Type>



   
color=3D#000000>I was=20
wondering if you all can help me out with the cooling system in my =
truck. =20
I have a '75 F-250 4x4 that I recently put a 460 in.  The problem =
is that=20
it begins to overheat after driving 5 or so miles at highway =
speeds.  I put=20
on a new water pump when I put the motor in, and a new 180 degree =
thermostat=20
today,  and a new fan clutch a few weeks back.  The antifreeze =
is fine=20
and the thermo. works fine,  but my factory gauge will still show =
above H=20
for a while then come down to normal,  then go up=20
again.

color=3D#000000>    Any=20
ideas?  Do I need a flex fan, or high volume water pump,  or =
electric=20
fans?  I assume the water pump is working OK,  is there any =
easy way=20
to test it?  Doesn't make any noise.

color=3D#000000>    Could it=20
be the sending unit?  I believe the sending unit off my 360 was put =
on the=20
460 in order to use my factory gauge.  Any way to test that?  =
The=20
gauge moves fine,  could it be showing hotter than it really=20
is?

color=3D#000000> 

color=3D#000000>    Please=20
help,  I don't want to screw up a good engine that I just spent =
alot of=20
money on to put in.

color=3D#000000> 

color=3D#000000>    Thanks=20
for your help!

color=3D#000000> 
Mike=20
Vonhof

href=3D"mailto:yasky netins.net">yasky netins.net=


- ------=_NextPart_000_0037_01BD44E5.3063FA60--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 18:02:24 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: 460 cooling problems

At 07:38 AM 3/1/98 -0600, you wrote:=20

>
> =A0=A0=A0 I was wondering if you all can help me out with the cooling=
system in my
> truck.=A0 I have a '75 F-250 4x4 that I recently put a 460 in.=A0 The=
problem is
> that it begins to overheat after driving 5 or so miles at highway speeds.=
=A0 I
> put on a new water pump when I put the motor in, and a new 180 degree
> thermostat today,=A0 and a new fan clutch a few weeks back.=A0 The=
antifreeze is
> fine and the thermo. works fine,=A0 but my factory gauge will still show=
above
> H for a while then come down to normal,=A0 then go up again.



What was the original motor? Sounds like the radiator is too small for the
new
engine.

Mike

_____________________________________________ =20

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 16:07:27 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: 302 Swap update

>From Dana
>I am starting to think that the trans should mount in first where it
fits stock
>then keep searching for engine mounts that fit ( contrary to what I
said before
>)

Good point! Kind of made me think. Mount the trans then with the
mounts connected to the engine drill holes in the frame to fit the
mounts.
Sound good? I see no reason it wouldn't work. I read a post where a
guy would use 2x4's to support the engine then drive to a muffler shop
and have the mounts welded to the frame.


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 16:37:48 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 460 cooling problems

What happens idling? any strange gauge readings?

At hwy. speeds ( over 35 mph for that matter ) the fan is useless.


> but my factory gauge will still show above H for a while then
> come down to normal, then go up again.



Sounds like maybe the thermostat is in backwards or sticking. The "copper pellet
or element" should point towards the engine.

If you are using a 390 or bigger radiator I don't think you will have any
problems in normal driving.

To test the gauge, remove the radiator cap and put a thermometer that can read
to at least 200+ degs ( candy thermometer would work ) into the top of the
radiator. Warm the engine up and observe the thermometer and the dash gauge.

Good luck

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 16:43:11 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 302 Swap update

Deacon wrote:
> Good point! Kind of made me think. Mount the trans then with the
> mounts connected to the engine drill holes in the frame to fit the
> mounts.


In an earlier post he said he tried this but the eng mounts were off the frame
in places. There must be a correct mount so many people have done this swap! I
think ( and for good reasons ) he is trying to use stock parts.

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 16:55:17 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Hood Hinges

All this hood hinge talk got me off my butt today. I found one good hinge at the
wrecking yard. I installed it and it did not make much difference. ( enough to
be glad I bought it though! ) Then I started messing around with the alignment
of the hinge and hood. I found that the hinge needs ( for my 70 ) to be high in
the front low in the back and the hood needs to be forward on the hinge. I did
this to both sides ( right is the old one still ) and with a little latch
alignment. The hood sits flush and no binds!!!! :-)

Can't wait to find a right side! No more prop rods or head knocks!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 17:03:58 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 302 Swap update

If this does not look relatively square try copying and pasting it into a new
message or quoting in a new message. ( don't send it just, look at it that way
it seems to "fix" the "image"

Dana




( mount on frame )
|-|
- -------|-|--------
- -------|-|--------
- - (bolt) -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - (bolt) -
- -------|-|--------
- -------|-|--------
|-|
|-|
( Center Support Bearing Retainer)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 17:08:08 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Our list in a nut shell!

Seems to fit:

Q: How many list subscribers does it take to change a wheel bearing?
A: 1,331:

1 to change the wheel bearing and to post to the list that the wheel bearing has
been changed.

14 to share similar experiences of changing wheel bearings and
how the wheel bearing could have been changed differently.

7 to caution about the dangers of changing wheel bearings.

27 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts

53 to flame the spell checkers

156 to write to the list administrator complaining about the wheel bearing
discussion.

41 to correct spelling in the spelling/grammar flames.

109 to post that this list is not about wheel bearings and to please
take this email exchange to alt.wheel.bearing

203 to demand that cross posting to alt.grammar, alt.spelling and
alt.punctuation about changing wheel bearings be stopped.

111 to defend the posting to this list saying that we all have wheel bearings
and therefore the posts "are" relevant to this mail list.

27 to post URLs where one can see examples of different wheel bearings

14 to post that the URLs were posted incorrectly, and to post
corrected URLs.

33 to summarize all posts to date, then quote them including
all headers and footers, and then add "Me Too."

12 to post to the list that they are unsubscribing because they
cannot handle the wheel bearing controversy.

19 to quote the "Me Too's" to say, "Me Three."

4 to suggest that posters request the wheel bearing FAQ.

1 to propose new alt.change.wheel.bearing newsgroup.

47 to say this is just what alt.auto.repair was meant for,
leave it there.

143 votes for alt.wheel.bearing.



Dana


( nice push! )

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 16:00:49 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re:Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios

At 04:34 PM 2/24/98 +0000, Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
>You can get 2v or 4v manifolds for the 300 I6 but your current
>manifold probably won't work with anything but a single due to the
>mounting base. The 2v and 4v manifolds duct the mixture differently
>too so would be much better. I've seen dragsters with three Holley
>2300's or with 3 Webbers so your imagination (and pocketbook) is the
>limit :-)
>

My gut tells me that a mildly modified 300 I-6 in an early Bronco would be....

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