fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, February 25 1998 Volume 02 : Number 112



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Brake lock [George Herpich ]
Re: Hood Hinges [George Herpich ]
oil bath [DC Beatty ]
Re: New Process Xfercase [Brian ]
Re: Brake lock ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Brake lock ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
ALERT, New Jersey proposed lift/tire requirments. (LONG) [james oxley
FE Tri-Power/Swap Meets [BDIJXS aol.com]
Re: How To Gear A 460 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: oil bath ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Hoods 'n thieves ["kingw" ]
RE: How To Gear A 460 low gear set [Sleddog ]
Pinion depth? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Hood Hinges ["Deacon" ]
Re:???????? [sdelanty ]
Re: Hoods 'n thieves ["Deacon" ]
List Question ["Harry Jennings" ]
Re:???????? [Stu Varner ]
RE: ???????? [Sleddog ]
Re: FE Tri-Power/Swap Meets [Stu Varner ]
Re: FE Tri-Power/Swap Meets [Ken Payne ]
1973 Helm Ford Truck Service Manuals - 460 CID engine missing ["Abajo, Ed]
Re: List Question ["Deacon" ]
Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #110 [Susan and Glenn Beck
Question on 390 Heads [shoman p3.net]

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Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 05:54:33 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: Brake lock

am14 chrysler.com wrote:
>
> George wrote:>>It would be hard on the wheel cylinders and battery.
>
> I don't claim to know anything about the electric ones, but I have an
> old farm truck that has a mechanical locking device for the brakes.
> This truck was once a city delivery truck with a 14' box van body on
> it. I guess they are the ones that installed it, because the emergency
> brake cables were cut off right at the backing plate. I've had this
> truck for 15 years (it is a '76 F350 dual wheels and a 14' flatbed),
> and I haul anything and everything on it. I've left it sitting for a
> week with the brekes locked and get in it and forget to unlock it and
> found out immediately that it was still on. The truck won't move. It
> holds forever seemingly, and I think from examining it, that it should.
> It locks both the front and the rear. It is engaged by pushing the
> brake pedal until the brakes are sufficiently locked and pulling this
> cable which is much like a choke cable - or a PTO cable. The cable
> stays out until you push it in and this is when you release the
> brakes. I love it, and I didn't even know there were such things until
> I got this truck. The mechanism itself is approximately 10" long and 2"
> in Dia (Hex). It has both brake lines coming in the ends and exiting
> near the center, and the lever that the cable operatesis dead center.
> It sits on the left fender well just below the mastercylinder.
>
> Azie

I looked in the Summit catalog after I sent that post. I thought you
were talking about using a line lock, the electrical device used to lock
the front wheels to hold a car in the beams on the strip. I saw the one
you spoke of which is mechanical. It looks like a great idea but I still
wonder about leaving the wheel cylinders under pressure.
George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 07:11:08 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: Hood Hinges

A64F100 aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 98-02-24 21:52:19 EST, you write:
>
>
> My '65 F-100 hood opens and closes smoothly, but except for one little
> detail. Back by the windshield it pops up a little, say about an inch.
> I can push it down, but I expect that it will come up again when driven
> and air is filling the engine compartment. >>
>
> I can't answer this question but rather add to the mystery.. The hood on my
> '64 F-100 does the same thing.. I thought that it was hitting on something but
> looked and it isn't. hopefully somebody knows somethin to help...

Hood hinges are very mysterious things. They do so many things every
time you open
and close. If just one of the pivot points is sticking in the least way
something
screwy is going to happen.
I was a mechanic on a fleet of trucks for many years and we had a lot of
older('62 to '74 or so)Ford F600 to 800 converted to small dozer
carriers after their usefull life as dumptrucks was over. Hood hinges
were always going bad. I tried many times to save them, mostly
unsuccessful. If caught early on, at the first sign, penetrating oil
would correct it for a while. It got to where I wouldn't even mess with
them, just replace them.
Maybe removing the hinge and soaking the whole thing in penetrating oil
for a week or
so and then regularly spraying them might work, this for trucks too old
to simply buy new ones. If you can find new ones, resist the temptation
to keep them oiled. Oil attracts and holds dirt which will wear them out
quickly. Just use WD40 if anything.

George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 08:34:26 -0500
From: DC Beatty
Subject: oil bath

Hello list: =


I have a '67 F100 with a worn out 352. Lately I have been getting massive=

oil blowing up through the breather, which has a hose piped to the air
cleaner. Oil fills up the air cleaner housing, and leaks down the front o=
f
the carb onto the intake. It's a mess!!

I know the motor is worn out, and it has always blown some oil up through=

here, but lately (in the last two weeks) it seems like it got a-lot worse=
=2E
I checked the PCV valve and it's working. My question is, is there
something I am missing? What else, besides engine back-pressure, could be=

causing this? I can't afford a rebuild now and need to limp the motor alo=
ng
for at least the rest of this year. =


Any suggestions are appreciated in advance.

Thanks,

DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 08:14:40 -0500
From: Brian
Subject: Re: New Process Xfercase

>
> I'm basically positive my xfercase is a np205. But I'll check again tomorrow.
>
>Its pretty easy to tell the difference between a 205 and a 203. The 203 has a large tailpiece on the rear of the case, it comes of the main gear box where the chain rides and is aprox. a foot or so long. The 205 is much smaller and has only small tailpiece.

Brian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 09:23:12 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Brake lock

> From: am14 chrysler.com
> Subject: Brake lock
> Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 17:14:20 -0500

> in and this is when you release the brakes. I love it, and I didn't
> even know there were such things until I got this truck. The
> mechanism itself is approximately 10" long and 2" in Dia (Hex). It
> has both brake lines coming in the ends and exiting near the center,
> and the lever that the cable operatesis dead center. It sits on the
> left fender well just below the mastercylinder.

Do you have any idea what brand it is or whether it might be an OEM
part? The ones I've seen advertised are definitely not this type and
probably are not reliable over long periods?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 09:28:01 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Brake lock

> Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 05:54:33 -0500
> From: George Herpich
> Subject: Re: Brake lock

> the one you spoke of which is mechanical. It looks like a great idea
> but I still wonder about leaving the wheel cylinders under pressure.

I don't see that as a problem. The rubber cups are pretty resilient
and the tolerances are pretty tight. The only problem I see might be
rust pits at the extent of the travel if left for long periods. I
say this because the pits usualy occur where the rubber rests against
the cylinder but once the piston moves it seals whereas if it pits at
the extents you could get leak down but even this is like way out on
the edge of likelyhood IMHO :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 09:59:58 -0800
From: james oxley
Subject: ALERT, New Jersey proposed lift/tire requirments. (LONG)

Hi all

Please forward this to any other truck/offroad list you may be
affiliated with. I think I have most Ford lists covered.

NJ is at it again. If it's not emission inspections that get us off
the road then it might just be this proposed bill. While not as stringent
as I originally thought, it is still cumbersome enough to make many rigs
in NJ illegal. The proposal cites info from Va. and NHTSA in support of
the proposed amendmant. However, neither Va. or the NHTSA have imposed
requirements anywhere near as burdensome or restrictive as New Jersey's.

These are the new proposed rules.

1. Bumpers be no higher than 24 inches or the highest level offered by
the vehicle manufacturer (29, I beleive for full size Fords). If bumper
is higher than than either of these, drop down bumpers will need to be
installed. So it's OK for dump trucks or even F-350's to have a bumper at
29 inches, but the rest of us are stuck at 24.

2. All bumpers must be 4.5 inches in height.(I don't really have a
problem with this one).

3. Largest tire- 38" or 6" dia larger than the largest factory supplied
tire, which ever is smaller. (This would be 37", 31+6, for most trucks or
36's since no-one makes 37"s, except for hummers). I imagine most jeeps
would be limited to 33's.

4. A ban on wheel spacers to increase track width. (I don't really have a
problem with this one either).

5. Vehicles with any lift over 4" need to be submitted to NJ raised
vehicle insepction program and have certification sticker placed on
windshield.

6. Maximum lifts measured from lower edge of door. Includes all
tire/rim,susp and body lift.

GVWR Max lift

up to 4500 lbs 7" over orig veh height

4501-7500 9" over OVH

7500-10000 11" over OVH.

7. "Catch all" language such as "does not posses any modifications or
alterations that would affect the safe operation of the vehicle" and
"does not cause any component that affects the safe operation of the
vehicle to be less effective or more likely to fail".

This last one leaves the door open to almost anything the inspector
decides he doesn't like and he could change his mind on different days
with identical trucks.

In conrast, Ca and now Colorado have max frame heights per GVWR of


(b) The maximum frame height is as follows:

Vehicle Type Frame Height

(1) Passenger vehicles, except
housecars ...................... 23 inches

(2) All other motor vehicles,
including housecars, as follows:
Up to 4,500 pounds GVWR ........ 27 inches
4,501 to 7,500 pounds GVWR ..... 30 inches
7,501 to 10,000 pounds GVWR .... 31 inches

(c) The lowest portion of the body floor shall not be more than five
inches above the top of the frame.

(d) The following definitions govern the construction of this
section:

(1) "Frame" means the main longitudinal structural members of the
chassis of the vehicle or, for vehicles with unitized body
construction, the lowest main longitudinal structural members of the
body of the vehicle.

(2) "Frame height" means the vertical distance between the ground
and the lowest point on the frame, measured when the vehicle is
unladen on a level surface at the lowest point on the frame midway
between the front axle and the second axle on the vehicle.

(3) "GVWR" means the manufacturer's gross vehicle weight rating, as
defined in Section 390, whether or not the vehicle is modified by
use of parts not originally installed by the manufacturer.

My 78 bronco with 6" lift and 38" tires and GVWR of 6550 would be
illegal in NJ, but only has a 27" frame height and no body lift.
Obviously, these regulations are much tougher than what other states have
adopted. This is on top of New Jersey having the only test (tilt test) in
the nation. The test actually checks EVERY truck over 4" lift for weight
distribution (or weight shift that might cause rollover) when the truck
is tilted.

The biggest I could go would be either 4" of lift and 35's (which is a
mild combo for a full size bronco), assuming my bronco came with approx
30" tires the factory or 2" lift and 36's which wouldn't fit anyway.

Please send your comments ASAP to

Richard Kamin
Director of Motor Vehicles
Attn: Legal Staff.
225 East State Street, CN 162
Trenton NJ 08666-0162.

Your comments will count and maybe we can at least end up with
restrictions that other states have, not worse.


Thanks and sorry for the long post

J. Oxley

PS, even if your not from NJ, you may want to send a note in opposition
of this proposed amendmant. These laws are like viruses and tend to
spread like such.

PPS, I am looking for someone who can give me exact information on Va.
lift laws, as NJ's proposed amendment, states information was taken from
Va.studies.

PPPS, look for sample letter to follow soon.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 09:58:37 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FE Tri-Power/Swap Meets

One more item that I saw at the swap meet in Texas last week that may interest
you hard core FE guys was a Tri-Power manifold and the three carbs...the guy
was asking about $1,000....it was in beautiful shape...

The guy's name is Chris: (940) 552-0752

Also, thanks to Don W. in Texas, I can see I'm going to hooked on going to
swap meets. Does anyone have a mailing list with a national swap meet
schedule?

Thanks for the advise on ports and valves.....

Colorado Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 10:05:46 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: How To Gear A 460

> Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 17:07:46 -0600
> From: Jim Craig
> Subject: How To Gear A 460

> Let's see if we can't come up with a good gearing combo. I'll use

What do you want it to do?

> Peak torque is at 4000 RPM--too high. Drops 18-20 ft/lbs. at 3500.
> Down to about 475ft/lbs. at 3000. The graph stops there, but torque

4000 is way to high for low end response and economy. This is the
same problem I'm having since I want to use a roller cam and all of
them for the 460 "start" at 2500 not peak at.............I seldom go
over 100 mph so with 3.00 gears, 33" tires and a torque peak of 2500
rpm I figure everybody better stay out of my way out there on the two
lanes. I cruise at 60 no matter what or where except in town of
course so 3.00 and 33's puts me at the beginning of my torque band
and lets it explode from there for passing etc. :-) Right now I'm
running 235's with 2.75 gears and wide ratio C-6 and can't complain
about the getupandgo except the intake and cam I have limits my top
end too much.

> --Hey sleddog, did you say E4OD Wide Ratio? There is one in the
> catalog for the C-6, but 1st ratio is only 2.72:1.

Don't know the ratios but the E4OD wide ratio set is used in the C-6
now and available from any authorized SVO dealer including Summit
etc..

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 11:08:23 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: oil bath

> Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 08:34:26 -0500
> From: DC Beatty
> Subject: oil bath

> I have a '67 F100 with a worn out 352. Lately I have been getting
> massive oil blowing up through the breather, which has a hose piped
> to the air cleaner. Oil fills up the air cleaner housing, and leaks
> down the front of the carb onto the intake. It's a mess!!

As I learned from my list buddys, the PCV can not handle a large
volume of smoke so pressure builds up and runs backward through the
breather hose to the air cleaner. My guess is serious ring leakage,
perhaps a broken ring since it started suddenly or even a holed
piston which is very dangerous since it can cause an explosion in the
crank case spitting carbon out any hole it can find including the dip
stick, be carefull!

If you really must run it this way take the breather out of the air
cleaner and route it downward toward the road like the old breathers
used to be. Use a valve cover breather with a pcv hole in the top or
better yet one made for inlet hose but with filter in it so it will
protect the engine in the case of negative pressure (nnt likely if
you have the condition I think you do) Tie the hose to the side of
the engine or frame so it isn't kinked and is supported to prevent
kinking.

Don't pur your face over any openings in the engine with it runnig or
you may wind up in the E room :-(

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 11:48:26 -0600
From: "kingw"
Subject: Hoods 'n thieves

Guys and Gals,
All this talk about hoods and hood hinges
reminded me of the time the hood on my 68
F100 unlatched while I was on the highway.
Luckily I didn't hit anyone or anything, and
the windshield didn't break, but it sure
woke me up. I've seen pictures in Hot Rod
of guys racing their cars in a similar
situation by sticking their heads out the
window. I tried it, and it doesn't work well.

When I got back home, I discovered
that this had happened to the previous owner.
Before, I couldn't figure out how those dents
got in the hood at that particular place.
I don't know how common this is for other
Ford trucks.

Anyway, ended up getting two eyebolts and
about a foot of chain. I mounted one eyebolt
on the hood, with the chain attached to it.
I mounted the other by the radiator. I use
a padlock to secure the chain to the eyebolt
by the radiator. If the hood unlatches again,
it will only raise up about 4 inches before the
chain and padlock catch it. The padlock also
keeps people from poking around under the
hood.

Don't know if this helps anyone, or if others
have dealt with this before, but the padlock
kills two birds with one stone (i.e., thieves
and hood-on-windshield-itis).

Bill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 11:56:31 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: How To Gear A 460 low gear set

my tranny had a 2.46 first, 1.46 2nd. GER in reading installed a low gear
set which puts the 1st gear at 2.75, 2nd is still the same.

the difference between gears means at 5000 rpm in first i was running 50
mph, and now i run 44 mph not including converter slip, using 3.50 axles
and 29" tires (size i had calculated for pulling, but this year i hope
bigger).

it is an 11 percent lower gear. i do not know if the gear set comes from a
E4OD or not.

i got the lower gear, for pulling. it was like changing the rears to 3.73,
but keeping the 3.50 for the highway. the rpm drop between 1st and 2nd is
bigger, but the 460 usually has enough torque to pull it no problem. i
think the gearset was under $500 extra on the full competition tranny they
built for me.

one thing to watch out for on the C6 is the 2nd gear band. it can get
wasted very fast with enough power. i have wasted 2 of them and the first
one was with a milder 460 than than i have now. the extra "space" between
the gears with a lower first gear will increase the chances of wasting the
band. WOT runs when the tranny shifts with the lower 1st gear means the
band must work harder, and without a quick shift, the band rubs for too
long and will easily wear the friction material down to the steel steel
surface.

sleddog


> --Hey sleddog, did you say E4OD Wide Ratio? There is one in the
> catalog for the C-6, but 1st ratio is only 2.72:1.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 12:28:26 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Pinion depth?

I just received a "Powerhouse products" catalog and something just
occurred to me. I think I may have "assumed" this relationship
before to simplify things but does anyone know for sure if it can be
relied upon that the flat surface where the carrier bearing caps
match up on the housing are precisely on the center (axis) of the
axle (installed), that is the axis of the carrier bearing bores?

I think there may be reason to suspect they will be close but can
they be used to set pinion depth? I suspect the caps are bored in
place with the housing through the axle tube bores and may be on the
axis of the tube bores but there is no reason to believe the split is
exactly on the bore axis since this surface does not actually
locate any rotatiing parts and would not be considered important in
the manufacturing process??

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 09:48:18 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Hood Hinges

From: Dennis K. Austin
>Well since the subject came up I want to ask more questions about this.
>My '65 F-100 hood opens and closes smoothly, but except for one little
>detail. Back by the windshield it pops up a little, say about an inch.
>I can push it down, but I expect that it will come up again when driven
>and air is filling the engine compartment.

My '73 F100's hood was a little bit off. It was so close no else
noticed but me. I'm sure everyone knows the feeling. One day I decided
to adjust it. After getting it how I wanted it I opened the hood and
shut it to make sure it latched easily and it did the stink bug.
Looking closely I could see the hinges were not in line, judging by
lines in the hood and the deck of the fender well. (that may not be a
clear explanation but it's the best I can do) I made slight adjustments
aligning the hinges then cleaned them up and sprayed them with Zip Moly
Dry Lube. It could have been the Moly dry lube that fixed it. I didn't
check after doing the adjustments but I believe it was a combination of
both.
Zip is great stuff and it last a long time. I use it on my doors as
well. It takes little effort to close my trucks doors. It worked on my
tailgate until a forklift driver changed that. :~(
If you feel everything's aligned, try the Zip. You can find the same
stuff at motorcycle supply stores as dry cable and chain lube. It will
say on the can Moly Dry Lube and it will have a nozzle with a straw so
you don't make a mess.
I hope this works for you too. Good luck!


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 09:54:04 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: Re:????????

>Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 17:50:13 -0500
>From: am14 chrysler.com
>Subject: ????????
>
>Steve are you always this meticulous when building your engines and
>such??????
>Do you keep all records this acurately. If so Uncle Sam just as well
>lay off you.
>
>Azie



Azie,
Yeah I usually take a lot of measurements and notes when I build engines.
You can't get where You want to go unless You know where You're at!
Besides, it does't take very long to CC stuff once You've found Your
burette, some colored juice, and plexiglass plate.
I like tweaking on the details of the hardware, trying to improve it,
that's what being a gear-head is all about, ain't it? (~:
You should see how long I spent with the die grinder detailing parts
before assy! Removing sharp edges in combustion chambers, equalizing chamber
volumes, cleaning up exhaust and intake ports, detailing oil passages, etc...
That kind of detail work can add a lot of HP/Torque/Reliability to a
given pile of parts!
That's what hot-roddin is all about... getting the most from what You've got!


Steve

"Remember, with lunacy comes responsibility;
we have a duty to make life at least a little more
surreal for those whose lives make too much sense."
-- Trygve Lode

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 10:04:10 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Hoods 'n thieves

>Anyway, ended up getting two eyebolts and
>about a foot of chain. I mounted one eyebolt
>on the hood, with the chain attached to it.
>I mounted the other by the radiator. I use
>a padlock to secure the chain to the eyebolt
>by the radiator. If the hood unlatches again,
>it will only raise up about 4 inches before the
>chain and padlock catch it. The padlock also
>keeps people from poking around under the
>hood.
>Bill


My next door neighbor has his hood lock setup on his '73 F250 the
same way Bill describes. I also had my hood come open driving down the
road. Not a good feeling is it! :)
I need to do this to my truck. Your right Bill, There's not much
room to get something in there to cut the lock. I can't think of a
better way to lock my hood.

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 12:14:41 CST
From: "Harry Jennings"
Subject: List Question

Can this list support pictures in the form of attachments?

Harry.

______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 12:17:06 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re:????????

At 09:54 AM 2/25/98 -0800, you wrote:
>
>>Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 17:50:13 -0500
>>From: am14 chrysler.com

>>Steve are you always this meticulous when building your engines and
>>such??????
> That kind of detail work can add a lot of HP/Torque/Reliability to a
> given pile of parts!
> That's what hot-roddin is all about... getting the most from what You've got!

Yo Steve,
Want to come to West Tennessee for a few days to build my 360 into a
390????
I do like your style! Anal retentive, I believe, is what they called it in
Psych class
in college. BUT, when you're done you really know what you got. I wish I
had the skills to be more that way when I build my engine....I think a 30
year old motor deserves to be treated with the utmost respect, love, and
dignity especially if you are going to really "run" the motor afterwards.
Doing the things the factory should have years ago! You are right on, man!
IT IS what being a gearhead is all about.......I am in my infancy as a
gearhead and need more diapers here! I am learning!!

STU
Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 14:28:30 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: ????????

AMEN !

SLEDDOG

Removing sharp edges in combustion chambers, equalizing chamber
volumes, cleaning up exhaust and intake ports, detailing oil passages, etc...
That kind of detail work can add a lot of HP/Torque/Reliability to a
given pile of parts!
That's what hot-roddin is all about... getting the most from what You've got!


Steve

"Remember, with lunacy comes responsibility;
we have a duty to make life at least a little more
surreal for those whose lives make too much sense."
-- Trygve Lode






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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 14:02:56 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FE Tri-Power/Swap Meets

hard core FE guys was a Tri-Power manifold and the three carbs...the guy
>was asking about $1,000....it was in beautiful shape...

**$1,000.00 for a tri-power setup with carbs is a really decent price all
things considered.....really decent! Wish I had.....wish I had......wish I
had....
>
>The guy's name is Chris: (940) 552-0752
Does anyone have a mailing list with a national swap meet
>schedule?

I would be very interested in this schedule too!!! I have too many little
things which I need to look for! I am still working on Momma for pigeon
forge this may!!!
Anyone know if they have a large vendor/trade site at Pigeon Forge?? Thanks

STU
Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 15:18:56 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FE Tri-Power/Swap Meets

At 02:02 PM 2/25/98 -0600, you wrote:
>hard core FE guys was a Tri-Power manifold and the three carbs...the guy
>>was asking about $1,000....it was in beautiful shape...
>
>**$1,000.00 for a tri-power setup with carbs is a really decent price all
>things considered.....really decent! Wish I had.....wish I had......wish I
>had....
>>
>>The guy's name is Chris: (940) 552-0752
> Does anyone have a mailing list with a national swap meet
>>schedule?
>
>I would be very interested in this schedule too!!! I have too many little
>things which I need to look for! I am still working on Momma for pigeon
>forge this may!!!
>Anyone know if they have a large vendor/trade site at Pigeon Forge?? Thanks
>
>STU
>Nuke GM!
>

There are a lot of vender at the show. You shouldn't be disappointed.
Many have show specials too.

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 14:56:54 -0800
From: "Abajo, Ed"
Subject: 1973 Helm Ford Truck Service Manuals - 460 CID engine missing

I just got my Helm 1973 Ford Truck Service Manuals yesterday and found
what appears to be an error. The Engine volume does not have the 460
CID V8 engine listed --- although the engine code for the 460 does
appear in the vehicle identification chart. When I ordered the
manual(s) the order clerk said that there were no supplements or
addendum for the manual. The copyright date is January 1973 --- could
it be that the 460 did not come out until late that year? What should I
do, send it back and get the 1974 instead?
Ed Abajo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 13:59:06 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: List Question

>Can this list support pictures in the form of attachments?
>
>Harry.


No! The rules haven't changed Harry. I've been on the list a long time,
so I know your not new. You finish the truck you were building? It's
been a long time so I can't remember. It has a fuel injected cobra,
right? It's good to hear from you again.


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Harry Jennings
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Date: Wednesday, February 25, 1998 11:40 AM
Subject: List Question


>
>
>______________________________________________________
> >+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 ....


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