fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, February 24 1998 Volume 02 : Number 109



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Ignition disable again ["Deacon" ]
Re: This sounds like the best i dea so far Truck theft [George Herpich
Make Truck No Go [Jim Craig ]
Re: Stopping the Thieves.... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Spreadbore's ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Ford Fans. [dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)]
Re: Grill Removal [Brian ]
Hood Hinges [Brian ]
Re: This sounds like the best i dea so far Truck theft [Rab Rawlins
Re: Make Truck No Go ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Seeing The Light ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Hood Hinges ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: FE Ports and Valves ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #108 [LeeCraner aol.com]
Re: To Edelbrock or not to Edelbrock? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
stock deck height? [sdelanty ]
Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios ["Mike Paz" ]
RE: gearing for mileage was see the light [Sleddog ]
RE: To Edelbrock or not to Edelbrock? [Sleddog ]
Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
test [Jason Eaton ]
Transfer Case Info [Jason Eaton ]
Re: Stopping the Thieves.... [ECampb5214 aol.com]
Re: Transfer Case Info ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: FE Ports and Valves [Sleddog ]
Re: Transfer Case Info [wayside cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)]
RE: FE Ports and Valves ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 03:57:17 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Ignition disable again

First let me say I agree with Dana, Tom's suggestion sounds easy to
do and should be effective considering most thefts are committed by
juveniles who single out older cars and trucks because of how easy they
are to steal.
I do wish to apologies to all the list members for my rude behavior.
I wish to personally apologize to John and Bill for my inexcusable
remarks concerning their suggestions for a fuel shut off switch. I now
agree the devices they suggested, along with the ignition bypass will
deter the majority of thefts we encounter. I'm sure everyone knows the
ability of the professional thief. Because of a recent situation, I
ignored the fact people were speaking of a deterrent to the
non-professional thief, that our trucks are more likely to encounter.
Not as an excuse but to show the sincerity of my apology I will
explain what happened that dimmed my view towards security systems. Plus
show how incredibly stupid I can be!
Our new house came equipped with a security system. Never having a
home security system I didn't have the slightest idea who to call. A
co-worker of my wife recommended a friend of theirs that owned a
security company. With out looking into it, we contracted them to
connect and monitor our home security system. Do to their inability to
correctly connect the system, not only have we wasted money on their
service but needed to have our phone lines replaced from the pole to
phone at a cost of $400. 00. I ignorantly took a dim view of the entire
security industry. In the last few days I have learned a lot about home
security over the Internet. Something I should have done in the
beginning. I have found most of the security monitoring companies in our
area are members of a national organization of security providers that
adhere to a strict code of minimum standards. The one we have isn't a
member. Luckily I have also found they are in violation of California's
BUSINESS AND PROFESSIONS CODE. So there wasn't a hassle getting out of
the contract. The fault is mine. With information easily accessed over
the Internet there is no excuse for me not investigating my options.
Thank you Antonio for putting me in my place. Your right, you didn't
ask for my phobic philosophies. I was out of line. Please let us know
what you do and how it works.
Hey, I never claimed to be a role model. :~) I believe when a
person knows their wrong and can't admit it, their an ass. I hate being
wrong, I really hate being an ass. I can't do anything about being
wrong, it happens. Once I realize I'm wrong, I sure as hell don't want
to add being an ass on top of it! In the future I will try to aim my
arrogance towards people who post jokes to the list, then expect us to
believe it was an accident. :~)


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 07:18:03 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: This sounds like the best i dea so far Truck theft

ECampb5214 aol.com wrote:
>
> Rab
> Wrote
>
> Just stepped in so excuse me if i'm rehashing nothing new. What about
> the "brake locks". Your brake lines are plumbed into a barrel lock.
> You step on your brakes, turn the key and voila your brakes are locked.
> I've got a topless Toyota land cruiser and on two occasions pranksters
> have hopped in it and pushed it down the road a few blocks so I thought
> this brake lock coupled with a kill switch might do it. Summit Racing
> Equip. has it.

It would be hard on the wheel cylinders and battery.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 07:37:11 -0600
From: Jim Craig
Subject: Make Truck No Go

All you guys may be forgetting one simple fact--how many of us are running
locking hoods?! Wiring under the hood isn't a problem for a thief as long
as he can get at it, right? The ignition disable switch in the cab is still
a great idea, but when do you know you are riding with a thief? If your
passenger sees you move this switch before you start the truck he'll know
somethings up. I know this is a little exterme, but I run a Moroso push
button starter switch under the carpet, activated by my foot. It runs in
line between the key and the soloniod. when it is started w/o the key, all
the gauges die like she has a blown starter. It is far enough out of the
way that a thief won't stumble on it, but close enough to where I can
activate it without my passengers knowing it. Believe me, I've fooled every
mechanic yet!! --I needed to weld a steel box around the bottom of the
switch to protect it-- The only other way to bypass the switch is to remove
the dash, change some wires, figure out how to unlock the hood... My custom
dash is locked in every which way and it ain't going nowhere, besides all
the wires behind it are the same color.
For electronic alarms, they make smoke canisters to fill the truck
up with smoke when the alarm activates so a theif can't see. Am I the only
one who bought an old truck in order not to deal with electronics?!
The Grant steering wheel remover may be an option....
But then again, have her look like a rust bucket, leave her obviously
unlocked everywhere you go, and leave the keys in the ignition. She's sure
to be left alone then :-)

Jimbo
'77 Supercab
351M
Working on
the 460!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 07:41:09 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Stopping the Thieves....

> From: ECampb5214 aol.com
> Date: Mon, 23 Feb 1998 12:45:40 EST
> Subject: Re: Stopping the Thieves....

> Dennis all a club well do is keep you from turning left to a certain
> degree. And most "glow in the dark" type devices stop glowing after
> 5 minutes, and fade from the sun after a couple of months, no the
> club is a temporary fix for a never ending problem.

I suspect this is all very true and add to that that it's only
effective even to that degree if you use it every time you get out of
your vehicle. You have to store it somewhere while driving too.

The best thing I've heard which is doable for every one on this list
is the hidden kill switch between the coil and distributor.
Breaking the circuit at this point makes it impossible for anyone to
bypass it without cutting and splicing wires which is usually beyond
the time and effort a thief will spend. With a little help from our
electronic whizbangs on the list we could even make it automatic with
a pushbutton reset using an electornic SCR circuit or transistor that
stays on till the main, not gate, power is turned off. Don't flame
me, I don't know what those are called only that they exist and I
understood it was an SCR??? You can also use a simple mechanical
relay switch to do the same thing. This way you get in the car, turn
on the ignition switch, press the reset and off you go. When you
turn off the ignition it is automatically cut off till you reset the
relay. This is undoubtedly how most alarm systems with ignition
cutouts work except your kill switch reset is in the remote.

To prevent glass breakage you can put stickers on the window to the
effect that it is equipped with devices to preven theft and most will
pass it up unless it is truely a very lucrative hot ticket item like
a BMW or Ferrari etc..


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 07:47:03 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Spreadbore's

> From: am14 chrysler.com
> Subject: Spreadbore's
> Date: Mon, 23 Feb 1998 20:47:09 -0500

> Gary wrote: >>The carter Thermo Quad, Rochester, or Holley 4165/75
> will all fit the same spread bore manifold flange so we still have
> some choices. AFAIK, of these three, only the rochester was ever
> used on a ford :-)
>
> Yo Gary!!! How about the Autolite Spreadbore I have on my '76
> Vintage out of a Merc.??? The book calls it out as factory.

I have one on my 460 in the PU too but I deliberately left that out
since it has a proprietary bolt pattern and is not interchangeable
with the other three :-( They are not very tuneable either. I like
mine very much but for those drawbacks. The beauty of the other
arrangement is that once you have sprung for the manifold you have 3
choices which ARE interchangeable :-) The ) OEM ford setup works
very well as long as it works and as long as you don't hill climb
with it or soup up the engine so it needs different tune etc.. This
is where the rochester shines :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Feb 1998 23:56:00 -0500
From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Ford Fans.

- -> The web site is owned by Chris Vetters. Once there click on
- -> 'automobiles.' You will then see his RX-7. A RX-7? Yes, but it is
- -> powered by a FORD 302!

So is mine.

Tyrannosaurus RX makes the tech inspectors do a double take at track
events.

==dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us===http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm==
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM | who, who?
=====================================================================


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 07:49:43 -0500
From: Brian
Subject: Re: Grill Removal

>
> Will I have to pull the
> bumper, and the plate behind the bumper, which is bolted to the
> fenders?
>
> Hey Dennis...I don't know about the '65 but on my '64 I pulled the bumper and that valance between the bumper and grill assembly to remove my grill...was still a "pain" to take out,

Brian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 08:10:13 -0500
From: Brian
Subject: Hood Hinges

Hey People... I have finally put the hood back on my '64 after
installing the 460. When I purchased the truck, the engine was removed
already and the hood was not bolted on. I noticed that it was missing
the hinge springs, so while picking through the old trucks at the
boneyard I picked up a set of springs. I put them on and bolted the hood
to the hinges, Now when I go to shut the hood...it comes forward about
6" past the front of the truck !! I've noticed that the hinges don't
operate very smoothly....Are the hinges just worn out? ore are they
sprung the wrong way ? Anybody experienced this before ??

Thanks..Brian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 06:32:01 -0700
From: Rab Rawlins
Subject: Re: This sounds like the best i dea so far Truck theft

George Herpich wrote:
>
> ECampb5214 aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Rab
> > Wrote
> >
> > Just stepped in so excuse me if i'm rehashing nothing new. What about
> > the "brake locks". Your brake lines are plumbed into a barrel lock.
> > You step on your brakes, turn the key and voila your brakes are locked.
> > I've got a topless Toyota land cruiser and on two occasions pranksters
> > have hopped in it and pushed it down the road a few blocks so I thought
> > this brake lock coupled with a kill switch might do it. Summit Racing
> > Equip. has it.
>
> It would be hard on the wheel cylinders and battery.
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
Wheel cylinders yes but there are no electrics involved.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 09:34:12 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Make Truck No Go

> Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 07:37:11 -0600
> From: Jim Craig
> Subject: Make Truck No Go

Whew! Finally cut out enough to get it into the mailer editor for a
reply. Kept crashing the system for some reason???

> For electronic alarms, they make smoke canisters to fill the
> truck
> up with smoke when the alarm activates so a theif can't see. Am I
> the only one

This is really effective. I had a short due to my own stupidity on
the way to GA one day at about 85 mph and it filled the whole
interior (huge area) of my Spitfire in a matter of seconds so that I
couldn't tell where the road was. I locked up the brakes, slid to a
stop, somewhere on the road with parking brake locked and jumped out
while it was still moving to open the hood only to realize I had no
way to get the battery cable off..............:-( BUMMER!

A guy stopped to help me thankfully but I can tell you there is no
way anyone will drive your vehicle in that condition :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 09:41:12 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Seeing The Light

> Date: Mon, 23 Feb 1998 20:46:08 -0600
> From: Jim Craig
> Subject: Seeing The Light

> time to get one of those engine programs! The Wide Ratio gear set
> sounds like the way to go, does it bolt in? My supplier can't get
> ahold of one, and haven't found them in mail order yet...I've only
> seen it in the Motorsport Catalog. Any ideas on how to get a set?

MotorSport has the E4OD set that fits the C-6. This is the only one
I know of but you should be able to get it through Summit and Juggs
since they both have the SVO franchise. Call Summit and ask them
what their price would be. Last I heard they were around $600 for
the kit.

I"ve seen some other posts on the economy thing and they were
essentially correct in that the cam, among other parts, basically
determine where your engine's happy spot is and this is where you
need to gear it for best economy in top gear. From there the wide
ratio helps around town as mentioned. Lugging the engine is as bad
as or worse than revving it too high, again as mentioned.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 10:10:17 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Hood Hinges

> Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 08:10:13 -0500
> From: Brian
> Subject: Hood Hinges

> trucks at the boneyard I picked up a set of springs. I put them on
> and bolted the hood to the hinges, Now when I go to shut the
> hood...it comes forward about 6" past the front of the truck !! I've
> noticed that the hinges don't operate very smoothly....Are the
> hinges just worn out? ore are they sprung the wrong way ? Anybody
> experienced this before ??

I can only think of a few things......you did oil the pivots right?
Wd40 the heck out of the hinges and move them with the hood a bunch
to loosen them up. Even if they are loose as a goose from wear the
geometry should force them to operate correctly. If any of the links
are disconnected, obviously......................but I'm sure you
checked that already :-)

If you put the springs in the wrong place this could mess with the
geometry so that's a possibility. Keep in mind that the job of the
spring is to balance the weight of the hood so look at your locations
and see if that's what it's doing. One end should be hooked to the
base of the hinge in some way I think, but can't quite picture it
right now?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 10:35:20 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FE Ports and Valves

> From: BDIJXS aol.com
> Date: Mon, 23 Feb 1998 21:13:12 EST
> Subject: FE Ports and Valves

> If a person wants low-end power and torque, they would want a set of
> cylinder heads in a 428 FE with:
- --snip--
> I keep hearing the bigger valves are better for this application,
> but since the FT's are designed for low-end (I'm assuming here) and
> have the small valves, I'm left wondering....

If you calculate the area of space between the seat and open valve
it should be relatively close to the cross section area of the runner
and port. Since more lift is the only way to get more area in the
valve opening with the same valve we have to make a choice for high
end or low end based on what larger valves will do vs what higher
lift will do.

In my research, the larger valve helps both top and bottom end where
high lift helps top end due to leaving the valve open longer and
giving it more "average" opening area/time. (duration)

Theoretically a roller cam with moderate lift and larger intake
valves and moderate port and runner size should give you the best low
end torque but this also helps the top end some. The more you move
your rpm torque peak up the larger the ports and runners need to be.
At low rpms the velocity of the column of air is too low to take
advantage of more lift which also requires more duration but larger
valve area helps quite a bit in both cases. It's probably possible
to get them too large for low end power due to the shape of the ports
etc. not meeting the valve opening very efficiently but I think you'd
have to make them pretty large to get to that point?

The other side of this coin is the velocity through the valve opening
to encourage swirl in the combustion chamber so it actually works out
to be a balancing act.

My next 460 will have slighly larger intake valves, 3 angle valve
job, essentially stock configuration intake manifold, hacked out
exhaust bumps, roller cam, headers with spread bore of some kind and
flat top pistons. I don't know yet the exact parameters of each but
this is my basic list.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 10:40:12 EST
From: LeeCraner aol.com
Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #108

Please send digest 108 again. It was not available on AOL as of the date and
time of this post. Thanks.

Lee

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 10:45:07 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: To Edelbrock or not to Edelbrock?

> Date: Mon, 23 Feb 1998 13:03:44 -0600 (CST)
> From: Jesus Cardoso
> Subject: To Edelbrock or not to Edelbrock?

> Does anyone know the consequences of putting a four barrel
> adapter in a two barrel intake? Can I expect a lot better
> performance along with a lot more gas being burned?
> One of the main reasons I want to replace the carb is to see if the
> problem that I am having with the truck dying at idle during cold,
> wet mornings goes away.

I would never put a 4v on a 2v manifold. There simply is no
advantage since the manifold can't move enough air to utilize the
secondaries anyway and air flow would be very badly compromised in
the carb reducing it's metering sensitivity.

The 292 is the same family and may be the same block as the 312 so
tri power and quad manifolds should be around for that application
but I don't recall ever seening them advertised in the after market?
Anyone else ever see any?


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 08:39:06 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: stock deck height?

>
>Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 08:31:59 -0600
>From: mongo
>Subject: stock deck height?
>
>ok i NEED to know what the stock deck height of a 75 390cid motor is and
>what the average cc volume of a stock flat top piston? all help i well
>apreciated!!!!!


Deck height = 10.17"

What do You mean by cc volume of a flat top? The volume of the valve relief
notches? It's pretty small, maybe 3 cc's?
Or do You want the total volume caused by the piston/deck clearance + valve
relief nothches? These I measured with a burette and some colored juice
when I rebuilt my '73 390.

Here's the numbers I got for a stock '73 FE390:

Cyl Head piston/deck gasket total C.R.
# volume volume volume volume

1 68.7 35.0 8 111.7 8.15
2 71.5 35.1 8 114.6 7.97
3 70.0 35.6 8 113.6 8.03
4 68.8 36.6 8 113.4 8.04
5 70.2 35.8 8 114.0 8.0
6 71.4 34.7 8 114.1 8.0
7 70.9 34.5 8 113.4 8.04
8 70.4 36.0 8 114.4 7.98

Next time I have it apart, I'll bore it and put some taller pistons in
for a higher CR. I reused the stock ones this time...

Is any of that what You wanted to know?


Steve

"Remember, with lunacy comes responsibility;
we have a duty to make life at least a little more
surreal for those whose lives make too much sense."
-- Trygve Lode

------------------------------

Date: 24 Feb 1998 09:29:18 -0800
From: "Mike Paz"
Subject: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios

Subject: Time:9:14 =
AM
OFFICE MEMO Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios =
Date:2/24/98

I have a question regarding putting some other type of carb on a '66 =
inline 6 (170 cu.) motor. Is it possible to put a 2 bl. carb instead of =
the single barrel? What carb and what kind of modifications? Any info =
would be appreciated. Also, I am curious about switching gear ratios in =
my rear axle...I have never done that before. I can't find much =
information on this because I want to set the gears up for better =
highway driving and the only info I can find is on making it a better =
rock crawler...
Thanks,
Mike.
(I have a '66 Ford Bronco)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 12:35:25 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: gearing for mileage was see the light

about 2 1/2 yrs ago i had a ford probe gt turbo. (ugly car but alot of
fun!)
the tranny would go out on it sometimes, and after screwing around with it
i could get iti into a gear to drive home, just one gear. i usually chose
3rd as it could start out, but still drive at normal speeds.
this car had one of those trip/mileage computers in it and normally showed
mid 20's to as high as 28 mpg when on highway at around 55-60. when the
tranny would go out, after getting it into 3rd gear i could drive
"screaming" the motor at 55-60. here's the kicker, the mileage computer
reported over 30 (about 34 if i remember correctly) mpg under these
situations!
sometimes turning the motor faster is better for mileage (see other post
about cepek catalog's information, it is very true).

my 77 f150 with a 460, 33" muds, 3.50 gears, C6 tranny (when i actually
used to drive it everyday before using it almost only for competition)
would get better mileage at an indicated 70 mph than at 55-60 mph. even
traveling faster, the engine was in its area of best efficiancy, with the
conveter i had, right under 3000 rpm. what the actual speed was i don not
know, as the speedo was not calibrated for the tires and gears, but i now i
was usually the fastest moving vehicle on the road.

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 12:39:18 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: To Edelbrock or not to Edelbrock?

try engine systems 770*491-0583
they show the y-block in the catalog with a stroker, cross bolt mains, and
performance cyl heads. so i imagine they might know of a 4V manifold.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 1998 5:45 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: To Edelbrock or not to Edelbrock?


The 292 is the same family and may be the same block as the 312 so
tri power and quad manifolds should be around for that application
but I don't recall ever seening them advertised in the after market?
Anyone else ever see any?


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 12:59:10 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios

> Date: 24 Feb 1998 09:29:18 -0800
> From: "Mike Paz"
> Subject: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios

> info would be appreciated. Also, I am curious about switching gear
> ratios in my rear axle...I have never done that before. I can't find
> much information on this because I want to set the gears up for
> better highway driving and the only info I can find is on making it
> a better rock crawler... Thanks, Mike. (I have a '66 Ford Bronco)

I have a spread sheet and can plug in your numbers for you if you can
tell me the tire diameter you plan to use and whether you have an OD
tranny or not etc.. Generally if you get it down around 2k - 2200
rpm it's about right but the old 6 bangers may want a little more
rpm, not sure since it depends on camming and where the engine makes
it's torque.

How much does a bob tail weigh? My big bronco hits real close to 5k.

BTW, I'm jealous, I've always wanted a bob tail and it's next on my
list (to add, not replace)

Can't help you with the carb, I've been into BB V-8's for too long
now :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 18:24:16 +0000
From: Jason Eaton
Subject: test

test

- --
Jason Eaton, FCI Communications ( Java Development )
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fcicom.com jeaton fcicom.com
- --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 18:30:42 +0000
From: Jason Eaton
Subject: Transfer Case Info

As a new convert from Cheby to Ford, I wanted to know more information
about the transfer cases used in the 65 Fords. I have a 65 2x4 and just
bought a 65 4x4 F250 and am planning on moving over the running gear.

Besides the transfer case being "divorced" does anybody know what the
internals are like?

Is it gear driven or chain?
What are the ratio options, "4-low", "4-high"?
Does it have a neutral? Like the NP205/203?

Thanks.

- --
Jason Eaton, FCI Communications ( Java Development )
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fcicom.com jeaton fcicom.com
- --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 12:36:01 EST
From: ECampb5214 aol.com
Subject: Re: Stopping the Thieves....

what about the rear window? mine by some misfortune thanks jermaine is broken

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 13:40:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Transfer Case Info

> Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 18:30:42 +0000
> From: Jason Eaton
> Subject: Transfer Case Info

> As a new convert from Cheby to Ford, I wanted to know more
> information about the transfer cases used in the 65 Fords. I have a
> 65 2x4 and just bought a 65 4x4 F250 and am planning on moving over
> the running gear.
>
> Besides the transfer case being "divorced" does anybody know what
> the internals are like?
>
> Is it gear driven or chain?
> What are the ratio options, "4-low", "4-high"?
> Does it have a neutral? Like the NP205/203?

I'm going to guess it is an NP-205? You can get the model number off
the case, it's embossed right onto the casting. If it's a 205 it is
gear driven and has a 2:1 low ratio. Shift options are 2hi, 4hi, n,
4lo.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 12:13:55 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FE Ports and Valves

i say B. and use a 30 deg intake valve seat with either choice, but
especially with A, as the 30 deg valve seat gives a big flow advantage in
low valve lift torque motors. just ask the old guys who built flat heads!

sleddog

- ----------
From: BDIJXS aol.com[SMTP:BDIJXS aol.com]
Sent: Monday, February 23, 1998 9:13 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: FE Ports and Valves

Hello Experts,

If a person wants low-end power and torque, they would want a set of
cylinder
heads in a 428 FE with:

A) Small intake ports, small valves (like the FT's)

OR

B) Small intake ports, bigger valves (say, Cobra-Jet size)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 20:02:16 GMT
From: wayside cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)
Subject: Re: Transfer Case Info

Speaking of transfer cases, what is the purpose of the neutral setting?....


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