fordtrucks61-79-digest Saturday, February 21 1998 Volume 02 : Number 104



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Axle ratios [Brian ]
Re: stan's headers [George Herpich ]
Re: Photo Radar Block ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Photo Radar Block [SuperMagot aol.com]
Re: fixing the ignion switch ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 460 valve adjustment ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: f100 fishy steering [Trs2000 aol.com]
Re: stan's headers [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
RE: 460 valve adjustment [Sleddog ]
RE: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #98 [Sleddog ]
Headers, tri-y ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
re:ford springs [Bruce Hart ]
Re: stan's headers [Kurt Albershardt ]
Engine Swap [Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)]
Re: Engine Swap [danadeb pacbell.net]
ADMIN: Survey Results Working (Beta) [Ken Payne ]
Re: Clunk Was:fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #98 [danadeb pacbell.net]
Side markers for a 66-77 Bronco [BJGR47D prodigy.com (MR RYAN STACK)]

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Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 07:58:56 -0500
From: Brian
Subject: Re: Axle ratios

Dan Koster wrote:
>
> Anybody have any idea what the axles & axles ratios would be for my
> stock '63 F100 2WD Longbed Unibody?

Not sure but I did just pull my '64's rear and found 3:00's I have a 9"
ford.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 09:44:05 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: stan's headers

marko maryniak wrote:
>
> Well, I got my Stan's today.
>
> Wow! What a set of headers.

Marko, Tri-y's are just what I hoped to find. Be sure to tell us how the
instllation
goes.............George

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 09:46:52 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Photo Radar Block

> From: Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
> Subject: Re: Photo Radar Block
> Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 11:47:06 -0800

> A pmail response indicates the material
> is nothing more than re-packaged clear
> fingernail polish. Now you have an excuse
> for the fingernail polish in the garage!
> Just use it to paint your plate. Unverified
> results at this point.

I'm going to guess that the reason it works (if it does) is that it
creats a thick, clear coat which refracts the radar beam so it
reflects a fuzzy image. Not sure how they work but if it's normal
radar it wouldn't care about color so would be reflecting back the
shape of the embossed letters. If you round them off enough it may
fuzz the picture beyond reading the numbers?? In that case simply
encasing the plate in plexiglass might do the trick?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 10:40:47 EST
From: SuperMagot aol.com
Subject: Re: Photo Radar Block

In a message dated 98-02-20 09:48:10 EST, you write:


creats a thick, clear coat which refracts the radar beam so it
reflects a fuzzy image. Not sure how they work but if it's normal
radar it wouldn't care about color so would be reflecting back the
shape of the embossed letters. If you round them off enough it may
fuzz the picture beyond reading the numbers?? In that case simply
encasing the plate in plexiglass might do the trick? >>

I am not an electronic engineer, nor I do I fully understand photo-radar
devvices, but my understanding is that the radar is like any other radar gun
that tracks the speed of your vehicle. If youre going to fast, it triggers a
standard photo camera to snap a picture of your license plate. The radar
itself doesnot take the picture.
Radar waves cannot see enough detail to accurately map an image of a license
plate in 3 dimensions...

I would assume this photoblock glosses the license plate to make the normal
light camera see a big giant light blur instead of the letters and such...

- - Mike

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 11:02:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: fixing the ignion switch

> Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 19:10:40 -0600 (CST)
> From: RL
> Subject: Re: fixing the ignion switch

> I replaced my igintion in the truck with another one. Is there a way
> to stablize it. As when starting it you have to hold it still to
> start or it rotates in the hole. Thanks Ryan

Most have a key or additional washer doflingy with a key that holds
it in place. If you forget to put the doflingy back on it won't have
a key to hold it. Some just have key and can be tightened up out of
place so the key doens't hold anything. Loosen the outer nut and
rotate the switch a bit while pulling back on it to see if it will
pop in the slot and then carefull tighten it back down making sure it
doesn't slip out.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 11:35:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 460 valve adjustment

> From: SARHOG aol.com
> Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 21:38:44 EST
> Subject: 460 valve adjustment

> What it does not address is this... my rocker arm nuts have an
> allen head
> "adjusting stud?" in the center of it. Obviously I need to set some
> kind of clearance between the rocker and the pushrod or valve or
> something with it. Does any of this sound familiar to y'all? Do I
> just get them snug before I torque them?

The only ford adjustable rockers for hydraulics I remember adjusting
required taking out all slack with lifter on base circle and then
tightening x number of turns. The idea is that you don't want any
clearance, there has to be some preload. The question is how much??
And I can't tell you but don't drive it without some preload, maybe
1/4 turn or so or you risk bending pushrods and losing valve spring
keepers etc.. I've never seen any hydraulics which required
clearance, has anyone else??

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 12:22:52 EST
From: Trs2000 aol.com
Subject: Re: f100 fishy steering

Thanks for all the great advice.



trs2000

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 09:26:41 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: stan's headers

>Marko, Tri-y's are just what I hoped to find. Be sure to tell us how the
>instllation
>goes.............George


You should all check out www.stans-headers.com

The base price for my application (360-390 Ford 4x4 1971) is $340 with the
standard 1/4" flange. These are slightly longer (they come down lower) than
the 2x4 version which Stan also makes.

I paid $20 extra for the 3/8" flange.

The kit includes premium gaskets, exhaust pipe side collector flange in the
ball/socket style, and all header bolts.

The headers are tri-y's with great big tubes.


I won't be installing them for a coupla weeks. Full resto update Monday!


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 13:15:09 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 460 valve adjustment

take all of the slack out of the valvetrain, with the lifter on the base
circle of the cam. you can do this by turning the pushrod until it feels
snug. then turn the adjusting screw in another 3/4 turn. tighten locknut.

if the lifter is primed (filled wigth oil) it may take a second or two for
the lifter to bleed down when turning the adjusting nut. the oblect is to
have the lifter plunger at the midpoint of it's travel.

you do not want any lash with hydraulic lifters. afterward, check the
"stroke" of the rocker against the valve tip to make sure that it is even
and correctly aligned.

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 13:18:14 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #98

that half keg of budwieser ;)

or maybe u joints, loose yoke, loose axle u-bolts, worn slip joints.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Butch33333 aol.com[SMTP:Butch33333 aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 1998 10:35 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #98

i have a 1969 f250 every time i take off from a stop there is a loud thump
coming from the back of the truck can anyone tell me what that is?????
thanks butch 33333 awol.com





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Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 14:46:57 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Headers, tri-y

Someone asked about tri-y headers. We discussed Stans but TTS in
california has them too. It's listed in the april 4x4 power magazine
and says they are all carb approved. Don't know if Jardine makes the
tir-y's or not but theirs look cool too :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 14:55:11 -0500
From: Bruce Hart
Subject: re:ford springs

To Tony Marino:Would your 72 ford book have the specs and/or sizes for
the double leaf springs found on the F-350.I have a 69 F-350 and I can
get new ones made pretty cheap if I can give the guy the specs as their
computors only go back to 73.The 73's may be the same but I don't know
so I need to find the 67-72 specs to compare.If anyone else knows if the
different production runs are the same please let me know-thanks.-Bruce
Hart

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Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 11:18:16 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: stan's headers

I paid about $290 for my Thorleys. Similar tri-Y construction with heavy
chrome, but nowhere near the number of choices as Stan's.



At 09:26 AM 2/20/98 -0800, marko maryniak wrote:
>
>You should all check out www.stans-headers.com
>
>The base price for my application (360-390 Ford 4x4 1971) is $340 with the
>standard 1/4" flange. These are slightly longer (they come down lower) than
>the 2x4 version which Stan also makes.
>
>I paid $20 extra for the 3/8" flange.
>
>The kit includes premium gaskets, exhaust pipe side collector flange in the
>ball/socket style, and all header bolts.
>
>The headers are tri-y's with great big tubes.
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 20:46:25 -0500
From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
Subject: Engine Swap

O.K. fellow enthusiasts I have a real problem here that I don't
understand. You guys swap all kinds of engines around and make it sound
so easy so tell me why it's soooo difficult. I am trying to install what
is supposed to be the "original" motor and I can't seem to get a break
Please help.
I tried to use the 240 motor mounts no way the motor sat too far forward
so I ordered a set of 302 motor mounts they seemed to be the right ones
they used different holes in the frame and all I sat the motor down in
and it's still too far forward so I bolted the tranny to the support and
bolted the motor mounts to the motor and set it down this won't work
either cause the motor mounts don't line up with any holes on top side
of the frame and on the bottom of the frame the rear holes are off the
frame and the front ones don't line upwith any holes in the frame. The
motor sits way up in the front when the motor is completely resting on
the mounts therefore the shaft from the trans. is in a bind going into
the back of the motor. I know this is a long post but I want to give as
much info. as possible this is to the point of ridiculous now and I am
very frustrated at this point. Anyone that can think of anything I am
doing wrong Please let me know I am using everything that was in the
truck except the motor. Please any help or ideas are greatly
appreciated. Tahnk you in advance for your time.

Duke's
Fine 69
F-100
302

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 18:22:19 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Engine Swap

George,
I just had a thought, the 302 rubber mounts might be handed and when mounted on
the wrong side they might force the engine forward!

Sounds like you need to take a trip to a pull-it-yourself wrecking yard.
Look for a truck same year and with a 302, measure everything!

There may be many 302 style engine mounts ( the rubber part ) and there are
different ones for the 351W that may all look alike.

In the end you could bolt the engine and trans together bolt on the trains
bracket hook up the drive shaft to the trans and differential and use that as a
starting point to mount the engine.

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 01:38:59 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Survey Results Working (Beta)

I've finally got the survey results working. Rather than continue
to use the brain-dead CGI script for results (it was giving very
bizarre results) I wrote a C++ program that sorts a 450k file
into survey percentages and builds a 300k+ HTML result file.
Your browser displays this file. Fairly quick considering that
its doing about several million parses (takes about 10 seconds) on
a multi-user Sun Workstation. This is a beta version. Although
I've been programming for years this is my first complete dynamic
web content program. It took about 1 day of coding. I think most
everyone will like it. It will be greatly enhanced over the course
of the weekend, with sorting and better catagorization.

Give it a try (its not directly linked on the web site so you
have to use this URL):

http://www.ford-trucks.com/survey/results/t.shtml

Let me know what you think and give me any suggestions.

I'm also working on a program which will allow password protected
access to the web site. This will allow me to give free web
space to users, within reason. Lastly, I hope to replace the
Java chat server with my own C/C++ program. Both these projects
are considerably harder than the survey program.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 23:51:57 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Clunk Was:fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #98

I have a 70 f250 and I get the same clunk sound.

I haven't finished checking but some suggestions were:

1) Slip yoke needing lube causing a slight bind in the drive shaft.
2) Drive shaft center support bearing able to move in it's mount.
3) Rear springs might have a wear spot that the next lower leaf gets
caught in till the springs unwind.
4) Transmission mount.

Definitely check the "U" joints. Raise the rear end so at least one wheel is off
the ground. Then shake the heck out of the joints, There should be very little
to no movement. ( I had checked my "U" joints and all seemed O.K. but then I
raised one of the rear tires and I found two that were shot! The clunk didn't go....

---

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