fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, February 9 1998 Volume 02 : Number 084



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: 71 Resto update [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Unibody Wannabe [John Pajak ]
Re: Unibody Wannabe [Kurt Albershardt ]
Re: 71 Resto update [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
RE: Rear Wheel Horsepower [Sleddog ]
RE: Wisdom & wives [Sleddog ]
RE: soloman's wisdom [Sleddog ]
Re: Carb Size? ["James A. Doty" ]
RE: Watery Oil ["Hogan, Tom" ]
small fix, big performance gain [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Dipstick [John Pajak ]
Goodbye for Now [John Pajak ]
Unibody Wannabe [John Pajak ]
'78 F250- Good deal? [wayside cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)]
Re: '78 F250- Good deal? [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Flywheel Problem STILL!!! [Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)]
Re: Bell housing bolt pattern302/352 [George Herpich
Re: Bell housing bolt pattern302/352 [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: GOOD CAM [George Herpich ]
Re: Carb Size? [GMPACHECO aol.com]
Re: '78 F250- Good deal? [Don Grossman ]
Re: Horror Story on my 351M ["J. A. Knapper" ]
Re: Wrecker [Tyler Wilkins ]
Heater core trouble. :( ["Daniel H. Jenkins"
Re: Heater core trouble. :( [Tyler Wilkins ]
Re: Horror Story on my 351M [Tyler Wilkins ]
Re: Horror Story on my 351M [Tyler Wilkins ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 11:33:44 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: 71 Resto update

>Question #1
>Is there an easier way to install the trans and transfer case when I
>reassemble the engine / driveline than the way I pulled it out??

Yeah Stu, there is. To take the shifter out w/o taking off the cover,
here's what ya do. You take a set of big pliers/visegrips, open them up,
and press down on that tin collar that's around the shifter and sits in the
housing...

Aw darn it all. I'm not gonna bother explaining. Email me your fax number
again and I'll fax you a diagram of how to take the shifter out. Then you
don't have to mess with the thing with the cover off.

>
>Question #2
>Anyone know where I can get new shifter boots for the 2-4 wheel drive
>shifter and the regular gear shift???? Mine are torn and I really hate to
>reinstall them looking like that.

I wish I did stu. I will try at Ford. You look too. When we find some we
will both buy them. Mine are shredded.


>
>Question #3
>Anyone have any advice on the trans and what should be done to it since it
>will not be rebuilt and will be sitting for at least 1 year?? Anything
>besides the front seal that needs replaced??

Is it noisy? The motto always is, Ain't broken, don't fix. You might wanna
let it drain several times, clean it out with solvent and let it dry out (no
solvent residue) then use a synthetic gear oil. Or just drain it good
several times thru the year and then put in synthetic gear oil.

>
>I have found this to be simple and straight forward so far. (Remember, I am
>the village idiot!) Nothing seems too complicated and through the use of
>notes, photographs and video tapes, I will have an accurate record of where
>it all goes together when finished.

That's great Stu, so if you ever don't know how to do something, you'll just
look at the video to see how you did it and then you'll go and do it.
Hahahahaha.... That's like the time I got stuck in the mud so I drove home
and got a shovel then I came back and dug myself out...

>Interestingly, I have found what appear
>to be factory assembly line markings on the frame, under the hood, on the
>valve cover, on the rear end. All documented for the sake of further
>enthusiast who may be that particular.

Weird. What do they look like?

>If anyone does have advice and a
>recomendations, please feel free to pass it along. I am one who will take
>all the help he can get from the qualified crew we have
>on borad.
>
>
>MORE QUESTIONS and a few thanks!!
>
>AGAIN, LET ME THANK YOU ALL FOR THE KNOWLEDGE AND THE CONFIDENCE YOU HAVE
>SHARED!!!
>I will keep you posted with the results and findings. Stripping the frame
>by hand will take my lifetime I am afraid! I may spring for a blast job
>if I can scrape enough $ together.

Not really Stu. You don't have to strip it completely. Do you have air?
If so, get a "rust wheel" (fibrous weird material that rips off rust) and an
air drill/grinder thingy and you'll have the frame clean in 2 days.

I haven't checked on the avg. cost of
>a blast job.......any ideas on what would be a reasonable price? I live
>1/8th mile from a fairly repuatble body shop.....i just haven't checked with
>them yet. Anyone have experience with the Chasis black paint that Eastwood
>Company puts out to go on the frame?? It is supposed to be the correct
>color.......BUT, is it durable enough?

You could have the frame powdercoated. If you were crazy enough. This would
be the most durable of all, though.

>
>While I am at it......the engine appears to be dark Ford blue paint.......Is
>there
>that much difference between Ford blue and Ford dark blue engine paint????
>Anyone know for certain which is the correct color for a 71 FE block? A
>good supplier?
>
>In closing, sorry this has been so lengthy, Marko Maryniak and Mike Redden.
>You both have been very supportive and helpful! Gratzi! Thank you! How
>do you say it in Ukranian? Thanks! Many thanks!!
>
What, is Mike Redden Ukrainian or something???



Stu, I finished the disassembly on Saturday. Thursday the truck goes to
redi-strip. The cab is unbelievably light when it's all stripped of the
parts inside.

This resto job is a no-brainer you know, even I could do it. Between the
two of us and the email anything we need to do can be done. One thing: be
VERY CAREFUL when you pry off your rain gutter chrome, if you have it. This
stuff bends real easy. You have to gently open up the lower lip and it sort
of pops off. Space your prys an inch or so apart. Work from one end. Work
slowly too. Don't use a can opener like some shops suggest.

I am gonna take a trip to the wreckers and investigate all sorts of
seatbelts. I wouldn't mind some good solid ones like from a Volvo or Rabbit
or something, if they're black and have no markings. My truck will look a
little updated anyway so sporty seatbelts should fit nicely. I'll let you
know what I find.

I can see you're as happy as a pig in sh*t about your truck. I can honestly
say I know how you feel.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 11:51:14 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Unibody Wannabe

I mentioned that I was looking for a 61 Unibody and someone
replied that they had one in Texas. I accidently erased the msg.
Please reply privately :)


===
John Pajak JSPajak rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

75 F100 2WD
68 Fairlane SW

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 11:59:30 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: Unibody Wannabe

At 11:51 AM 2/9/98 -0800, John Pajak wrote:
>
> I mentioned that I was looking for a 61 Unibody and someone
>replied that they had one in Texas. I accidently erased the msg.
>Please reply privately :)
>

How do I tell a unibody truck? Are there pix on the WWW site?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 12:19:29 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: 71 Resto update

>Question #1
>Is there an easier way to install the trans and transfer case when I
>reassemble the engine / driveline than the way I pulled it out??
>


Stu:

remove the shifter as aforesaid.

Then, when you have the cab removed for frame painting, use an engine hoist
and put the tranny/tran case assembly back in from above. You'll have real
easy access, no cuts or anything. You may haveta sling it up or something
temporarily with mechanics wire at the front while the engine is out. You
could even bolt the whole works (engine, bellhousing, tranny, case) together
off the frame and install it in one shot when the cab was off. This would
make life real simple.

My truck has the divorced case, but I'm still not touching anything like the
tranny or motor or t/c until the body is off. Then I can work on them
easily and properly.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 15:19:41 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Rear Wheel Horsepower

long ago (mid '80's maybe) i read that drivetrain losses were about 20%. i
just pulled from Fundamentals of Vehicle Dynamics (Thomas D. Gillespie
1994) "As a rule of thumb, efficiencies in the neighborhood of 80% to 90%
are typically used to charactoize the driveline."

which means that driveline losses are considered to be 10% to 20%.

most likely on our "older" trucks it is on the high side, and i know a c6
tranny can take more than 25 HP away all by itself. also, this doesn't
include tire rolling resistance i believe.

does this help?

sleddog

- ----------
From: Keith Srb[SMTP:herbie netvalue.net]
Sent: Monday, February 09, 1998 11:52 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Rear Wheel Horsepower

This is a "what if" type question.
What if i had a 390 mated to a Warner T-18, (a four speed with granny low),
and a 9 inch rear end.
Lets say the 390 puts out 400 horsepower on the engine dyno.
Now, lets say you put this engine, transmission, and rear end combination
in a Ford Truck.
About how much horsepower would be lost, due to the effort used to turn the
transmission, rear end and so on, if we put this truck on rear wheel dyno
???
Can someone estimate this number for me ??


Thanks!

Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long
Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner,
Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 15:25:12 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Wisdom & wives

with 390 women, you never have to "put up" with any of them. you'll be bound to find one in a "good" mood on each day of the year!


- ----------
From: am14 chrysler.com[SMTP:am14 chrysler.com]
Sent: Monday, February 09, 1998 12:27 PM
To: Fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Wisdom

Please excuse the non FOMOCO content!!!

Jeff writes >>Your wisdom is as Soloman's...


You know -- I've been taught all my life about the wisdom of
Soloman!! And I know he was very wise in many ways, but I can't
understand why any man would want 90 some wives and 300 concubines!!!
This is beyond my comprehension. I have but one (1) wife and no
concubines, and thats more than enough to have to put up with on a
daily basis. Don't most of you men agree??????????/

Azie





+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
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+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 15:25:30 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: soloman's wisdom

- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Monday, February 09, 1998 7:15 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: "Floating a Valve"

> Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 23:14:01 -0500
> From: Jeff
> Subject: Re: "Floating a Valve"

> Sleddog,
>
> Your wisdom is as Soloman's...


well, i am not familiar with soloman's story. now, on the other hand, the Grateful Dead introduced me to Samson and Delilah :*]

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 12:25:57 -0800 (PST)
From: "James A. Doty"
Subject: Re: Carb Size?

On Mon, 9 Feb 1998, Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
> From: GMPACHECO aol.com
> Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 23:59:22 EST
> Subject: Re: Carb Size?
>
> I believe I started this mess regarding carb sizes, I installed the
> manifold and carb today, put a eldelbrock performer manifold and
> 600 carb in a 302, seems to run, tomorrow I'll take it out on the
> Freeway, its got real quick response and seems like no dead spot ,
> but tomorrow will tell..
>
Last year I put an Edelbrock Dual Plane intake manifold and 600 CFM carb.
on my '78 E-150 (351W). I noticed the same thing. I've got very good off
the line response, my engine performs better, and my mileage has improved
quite a bit. I was getting 6 MPG and now I'm getting 10 MGP.
Have more work to do, but I'm progressing.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 12:28:34 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: Watery Oil

I remember hearing a story once from a friend who had water getting into
his oil. Turned out the water pump was mounted to the timing chain
front cover and the front cover was the back of the pump (factory
design). When the coolant etched a pinhole in the timing chain cover
voila, oil and water mix. I don't know if this is applicable here but
worth a check. He did say the holes were very small.

Good Luck and let us know what you find.

Tom H.


- ------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 10:21:33 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Watrery oil

Greg writes: >>Where is the water coming from? You may also remember
that I never did see any obvious sign of hd gasket problem once the
heads were off? Do I have a cracked block, or is there ANYTHING,
PLEASE, ANYTHING, it might be that I wouldn't have to tear everything
apart again. I'm looking at long blocks now.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 12:34:45 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: small fix, big performance gain

Well, my 360 4x4 was starting to gobble up the gas recently, and it's been a
damp winter out here.

I figured I'd take two minutes, file my rotor, and scrape the contacts on
the inside of the cap. There wasn't too much crud on them, but it was
noticeable.

My gas mileage improved at least 15%. The engine starts right away again
(within 1 sec of engaging the starter) and it has a whole mess more response
from idle, and off-idle power.

Just a reminder not to overlook the simple little things.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 12:33:30 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Dipstick

How easy is it to change the dipstick tube on a FE? I broke mine
at the bottom when changing from headers to exhaust manifolds. Any
easy way to get the remains out of the block?

===
John Pajak JSPajak rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

75 F100 2WD 360/C6

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 13:00:07 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Goodbye for Now

> 75 F100 2WD 260/C6
>
Ooops I meant 360!

John Pajak



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 11:08:16 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Unibody Wannabe

I mentioned that I was looking for a 61 Unibody and someone
replied that they had one in Texas. I accidently erased the msg.
Please reply privately :)


===
John Pajak JSPajak rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

75 F100 2WD
68 Fairlane SW

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 23:26:11 GMT
From: wayside cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)
Subject: '78 F250- Good deal?

Hello list,
You have been helpful in the past, and I need some opinions/advice again.
I've finally found an F250 in pretty good shape. It's got a 400 ci =
engine,
pt transfer case, auto trans; only 78,000 original miles (He says). Body =
is
good, the only rust is at the bottom rear of the left front fender, and
there are a few small dings and dents here and there (It is 20 years old,
after all). New interior, new bottom end gaskets and seals, recent =
tune-up.
Seems to run well, no weird knocking or tapping noises. It tracks welland
doesn't pulll when the brakes were hit.
Is it worth anything close to his $3,000 asking price? I'm sorely tempted
after comparing it to some of the even more expensive junk I've looked at
recently. I realize that prices will vary by areas, and will take that =
into
consideration with you opinions.
Thanks for your time and thoughts,
Rob

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 15:42:56 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: '78 F250- Good deal?

>
>Hello list,
>You have been helpful in the past, and I need some opinions/advice again.
>I've finally found an F250 in pretty good shape. It's got a 400 ci engine,
>pt transfer case, auto trans; only 78,000 original miles (He says). Body is
>good, the only rust is at the bottom rear of the left front fender, and
>there are a few small dings and dents here and there (It is 20 years old,
>after all). New interior, new bottom end gaskets and seals, recent tune-up.
>Seems to run well, no weird knocking or tapping noises. It tracks welland
>doesn't pulll when the brakes were hit.
>Is it worth anything close to his $3,000 asking price? I'm sorely tempted
>after comparing it to some of the even more expensive junk I've looked at
>recently. I realize that prices will vary by areas, and will take that into
>consideration with you opinions.
>Thanks for your time and thoughts,
>Rob


Rob, $2k would be a decent deal. $3k is pushing it. Check EVERYTHING else
(and it shud all be easy to see on a truck). Rust hides in the rear cab
corners, in the floor along the sides, in the cab mounts (remove the
inspection plates), and in the channel supports on the box, especially (for
some reason) the next-to last one.

A decent running engine is worth money, but the real worth in this truck
seems to be the rearend/frontend and the transfer case. If these are good,
you are doing well.

You can easily tell 78k miles from 178k miles.

Check for wear on the brake pedal, and for wear and tightness on the auto
trans shift lever. Open the door wiggle it up and down, to see if the hinge
pins are worn. Look at the odometer to see if the numbers line up perfectly
or not. Turn on the wipers and see how worn the wiper linkages are. Check
door handles for tightness, and for key scratch marks on the steering column
and door. I had some scumbag attempt to sell me a 74 maverick with "45,000
miles" on it. What a lie, he changed the speedo or he left off a hundred or
so thousand. It was so easy to tell it was pathetic. He was asking $850,
which was $851 too much for me.

If you have a good solid unit with everything tight, and a little wee bit of
rust but that's it, then $2500 would not be too much to pay at all. After
all, a new F250 4x4 is about $30 g's or so, isn't it?

Any questions, let me know.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 18:47:28 -0500
From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
Subject: Flywheel Problem STILL!!!

Well fellow Truck enthusiasts I have a problem with my local yard as I
said before they had given me what y'all decifered as a 351M flywheel so
on Friday I was off to the yard again to buy another one they did'nt
have one so the guy had to order one from another yard he calls me today
and says the flywheel was in so with my # in hand , the one the Ford
dealer gave me, I asked the yard guy what the # was on the one he had
and it was different he said the Hollander is never wrong but guess what
it is the one he got me is for a car 10" clutch he says I will never
find one with the exact #'s on it What I want to know is how hard can it
be for this bonehead who has access to yards all over the US to find me
a flywheel for a 69 Ford truck 302 with an 11" clutch? If anyone knows
something else I need to be looking for or if the one from the 351M will
somehow work please help this is very frustrating to me to keep paying
for non-refundable special order parts only to find out that it's the
wrong one Thank you all.

Duke's
Fine 69
F-100
302

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 18:49:35 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: Bell housing bolt pattern302/352

Mike Schwall wrote:
>
> >Also I have a question -- How can you tell a 352 from a 360 with the
> >engine in the vehicle and intact???? They look the same to me!!!!
>
> Saw 352 stamped on the block. About the middle of the timing chain cover
> on the right side.

You can find 352 on almost any FE block. Even 427's and 428's.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 16:23:22 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Bell housing bolt pattern302/352

Unless you take off the pan or measure the bore, it's hard to ident a 352.

Here are some pointers:

If it's in a pre-68 vehicle, there was no such thing as a 360, so that helps.

If it is, and you remove the pan and see that the pistons have full skirts
on them and not slipper skirts, it's a 352. The only two engines with full
skirts were the 352 and the 360 in the FE family. All the rest of the
motors had slipper skirts. If the engine has a full skirt and a 4.00" bore,
it's a 352. If it's a 4.05" bore it's a 360 (well, then you get into
questions like has it been bored out before etc.). But the piston skirt is
the easiest way to tell.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 19:20:04 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: GOOD CAM

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> > From: FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)
> > Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 10:27:51 -0500
> > Subject: GOOD CAM
>
> > Can anyone tell me a good cam for a 351w
> > i am looking for more torque . I sometimes pull
> > a camper with my truck and would like more
> > power to pull the mountians of WV .Also
> > witch carb and intake setup would be good for this HOLLEY or
> > EDELBROCK .thanks for any good ideas .
>
> One bronco member used a SVO 303 roller cam but I think he was
> looking for more top end. He was fairly happy with it last I heard.
>
> Holleys are holes in the top of the engine for fuel and air to flow
> through, Edlebrocks are carburetors as are Rochesters and Carter
> AFB's. Your choice :-)
>
> Actually Holley's are OK but they don't meter as well at lower rpms
> so are wastefull and don't work very well off road at all due to
> float bowl slosh etc.. If you are going to buy one new, I'd
> recommend the Edlebrock or one of the spreadbores (you need a special
> spread bore manifold, but not ford, they're proprietary). Rochester
> is reputed to be the primier off road carb but Offenhouser is the
> only company I know of which makes a manifold to fit fords.

I have to agree. After many years as a faithfull holley man, I tried an
Edlebrock(AFB).
Much better driveability and mileage and much more tuneable. There are
no gaskets below the fuel leval and no rubber parts. The metering rods
are a much easier way to tune midrange than those damn power valves, and
the don't blow if you backfire.
I got tired of arguing with the die-hard holley set and rarely get into
this debate anymore. I sure don't miss scraping those miserable bowl and
jetplate gaskets. You can't go wrong using an Edlebrock
cam-manifold-carb combo.
George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 19:55:53 EST
From: GMPACHECO aol.com
Subject: Re: Carb Size?

Yahoo, its good to hear, I'll keep you posted

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 17:15:16 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: '78 F250- Good deal?

I'll have to agree with Marko on everything but the price. If
everything checks out and it is the origional mileage and as he says all
the drive train is in good shape $3000 would be a great deal. I do live
out here in california so my price point of view is a little different.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 20:24:36 -0500
From: "J. A. Knapper"
Subject: Re: Horror Story on my 351M

I don't know if the same is true in the truck engines, but back in 79,
80 I had to do a recall on the either the 351M or 400, (sorry, memory is
fading with age). It seems that some blocks were thin in the lifter
gallery, they would crack, letting coolant to leak into the oil. Since
you can remove the intake on these engines without drain the cooling
system, what you did was remove the intake and pressuruze the cooling
system. if there was a crack, you could see coolant seeping out by the
lifters. I hope that's not the case with yours, Ford had you replace the
block.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 19:44:41 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: Wrecker

>
> Sleddog writes: >>ps- it ain't a ford, but i saw a late 60's dodge 3/4
> ton tow truck 4X4 for $600, with the boom and PTO still on the truck.
> need a boom?

I recently ran across a similar truck, a 1969 Chebbie 3/4 ton 4x4 with a
boom set-up for $800! Planning to purchase to make a quick buck. There
ain't a speck of rust on the body...... If it was only a FORD, I'd keep
it, a tow truck could really come in handy for many things.........

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 17:44:46 -0800 (PST)
From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
Subject: Heater core trouble. :(

Well, here's the latest on my truck. My windows have been fogging
up REALLY bad all winter; I've had my windows lokking like the inside of
a hot house. Anyway, I just figured that it was due to the size of my
truck (I have a supercab). Well, today cloud of steam and the smell of
antifreeze were coming out of my vents. :( :( :( On the bright side, no
anti-freeze is leaking in to the cab!! So, do I need to change out my
heater core, or is there something else worth looking in to? If I do have
to change it out, what kind of a job am I looking at? I have a 1977 F150
Supercab with a 400ci V8 and factory air. I need to do it soon, since I'm
freezing my tookus off here in Reno. Thanks for the help.

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel H. Jenkins Food for thought: John Milton
djenkins honors.unr.edu wrote _Paradise_Lost_; When his
Honors Program wife died he wrote _Paradise_
University of Nevada, Reno _Regained_...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 20:01:07 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: Heater core trouble. :(

Daniel H. Jenkins wrote:
>
> Well, here's the latest on my truck. My windows have been fogging
> up REALLY bad all winter; I've had my windows lokking like the inside of
> a hot house. Anyway, I just figured that it was due to the size of my
> truck (I have a supercab). Well, today cloud of steam and the smell of
> antifreeze were coming out of my vents. :( :( :( On the bright side, no
> anti-freeze is leaking in to the cab!! So, do I need to change out my
> heater core, or is there something else worth looking in to? If I do have
> to change it out, what kind of a job am I looking at? I have a 1977 F150
> Supercab with a 400ci V8 and factory air. I need to do it soon, since I'm
> freezing my tookus off here in Reno. Thanks for the help.

I have been experiencing the same problem since I had my cab off my '79
and the heater core got penetrated by the shifter (DON'T ASK!). Busted
a whole through it, ever since then I have had the exact same problem.
I have found a partial temperary solution. To be able to have heat I
get out 5-10 min early to warm up my truck. I start the truck and roll
all the windows down and crank the heater on FULL BLAST! When I come
out in 5-10 min the windows are clear and I have no fogging problems
until the engine cools again. I have replaced a heater core assembly
and found it hellish! I ended up taking off the entire front clip of
the truck to be able to acess the heater from the engine comp. My truck
is quite similar to your. Its a '79 F-100 with a 351M. Do you have
A/C? This task may be a little less tedious if you do not. I consider
this problem *FATAL* requiring the replacement of the whole core
maditory. I have heard several questional temp. fixes but wouldn't
trust any of them.

Tyler Wilkins

p.s. My truck is only a standard cab.......

'79 F-100 4x2 351M, C-6
'74 F-100 4x2 360, C-6
'73 F-250 4x4, 360, 4-speed, 33" BFG Muds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 20:12:20 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: Horror Story on my 351M

Recently while I was working on a neighbor truck he had the hood off for
several days before I came over to give him a hand. He assured me the
air cleaner assembly was on though the whole time. We we removing the
motor and I was unbolting the flywheel to the torque converter
bolts..... the spark plugs had just been removed too. I told him to
grab the crank on the front of the engine and rotate it until I said
stop when I saw the next flywheel bolt. After a 1/4 turn I got a face
full of rusty water that had come out of the spark plug hole just above
me. Ouch! Not a good sign. After rotating it more the same thing was
exerted from on off the holes on the other side. Yuk!!!! Obviously he
had not left the air cleaner on...... Sure glad it wasn't my truck.
When we pulled the heads we found quite a bit of damage......the motor
has been leaned up against his garage, OUTSIDE w/o the heads ever since.
I bet thats the last time he does that!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 20:19:08 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: Horror Story on my 351M....


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