fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, February 5 1998 Volume 02 : Number 071



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

1972 ranger XLT.....help! [Forest New ]
9" gear changes [jniolon uss.com]
RE: 15 " rims with 3/4 ton front brakes ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: 15 " rims with 3/4 ton front brakes [james oxley ]
Re: 9" gear changes ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Engine Parts [Brian ]
Re: Y-Block Question [Jesus Cardoso ]
1999 F-Series [John Strauss ]
Re: Steering wheels cracking Article [John Pajak ]
'62 Tailgate [Dennis Pearson ]
Slip yoke [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: '62 Tailgate, unibody? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: '62 Tailgate, unibody? [John Pajak ]
Liters [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: 1999 F-Series ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Fwd: Re: '62 Tailgate, unibody? [John Pajak ]
Vacuum modulator [am14 chrysler.com]
Slip yokes [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: '62 Tailgate, unibody? [Dennis Pearson ]
Re: Liters ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: '62 Tailgate, unibody? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: '62 Tailgate, unibody? [John Pajak ]
400 rebuild [am14 chrysler.com]
292 [am14 chrysler.com]
428 flywheel [am14 chrysler.com]
Brakes, bleeding, pressure...... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]

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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 07:43:29 -0500
From: Forest New
Subject: 1972 ranger XLT.....help!

Have a couple questions I hope you can help with!
I need to know where the fuel tank selector spool is on a 72 ranger xlt
with dual tanks. My gauge reflects the level in both tanks okay but the
spool definately isn't switching. If anyone knows the part number to this
unit I would also be much appreciative.
Anyone who has a line on a comprehensive shop manual for this truck please
point me in the right direction. I bought a chiltons manual for ford trucks
65-78, and I should have just kept my money, its worthless and very vague.
I need something with wiring schematics!
Last but not least if someone could recommend a good restoration parts
supplier for restoring my truck, interior, trim, etc. I would be thankful.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 06:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon uss.com
Subject: 9" gear changes

o.k. differential experts,

all the "experts" I talk to here in B'ham tell me that you can
exchange ring and pinion gears from a conventional 9" pumpkin with a
limited slip or equal-loc. As long as the carrier bearings are the
same size. i.e. small bearing carrier or large bearing carrier.

But I want the word from the real experts. I've received a reply on a
9" equal-loc with 3.5 gears and want to make sure I can put my
tall(er) gears (2.75) in this pumpkin.

My second question is ...with my calculations given the following data
26.5" tires & 2.75 gears 70 mph = 2440 rpm
26.5" tires & 3.50 gears 65 mph = 3106 rpm

giving a 666 rpm difference

I know it's only 666 rpms but is it worth the trouble to change out
the gears for a 666 rpm drop while cruising. Keep in mind this is a
460/C-6 mildly built combo in a '53 F-100 that is going to be a cruise
machine instead of for racing.

Would the only advantage be gas mileage ? (with a 460 ? yea right !)


Your expertise is anxiously awaited.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 07:49:41 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: 15 " rims with 3/4 ton front brakes

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: 15 " rims with 3/4 ton front brakes
> Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 17:02:07 -0500

> can't say as to how it was done, but i have seen it done a few
> times. my buddy said he could tell me how to do it when i was
> talking about converting my f150 to 1 ton axles and wanted to still
> use my tires i had.
> i know he said i would have to cut and weld in new centers of the
> rims to
> get an 8 lug pattern, or buy custom wheels. but i do not know of
> any other specifics.

You can buy 8 liug, 15" wheels already made for this purpose but the
interferance with the disk on the front may be a problem with cast
wheels. Steel wheels are thinner so take up less space on the inside
where the rotor is and may work but I'm not sure about that. You can
also use less back spacing to get more clearance but there are limits
to that too for tire wear and handling.

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 08:27:05 -0800
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: 15 " rims with 3/4 ton front brakes

Hey all

Been getting lots of info from both lists so I made a compilation of
the answers I got. Seems there is no chance to use 15" rims (at least
aluminum) with the larger 3/4-1 ton calipers, but I am still going to
look into it for steel wheels. Also seems the dana 44 "spider" and
caliper could be used as rotors are supposed to be the same size.

OX

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------The Ford calipers are way to big to fit 15" wheels. I have a 78 front
end and I just have enough room for the wheel weights on 16.5's.

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------

can't say as to how it was done, but i have seen it done a few times. my
buddy said he could tell me how to do it when i was talking about
converting my f150 to 1 ton axles and wanted to still use my tires i had.
i know he said i would have to cut and weld in new centers of the rims
to
get an 8 lug pattern, or buy custom wheels. but i do not know of any
other
specifics.

sleddog

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
i believe it's possible with the proper backspacing and some grinding.
i've
been looking into this quite a bit. when i swap mine, i'm going with the
big
1 ton discs on front and rear, so i'm going to have to go to 16.5s, but
there are guys running 15s with the 3/4 ton discs.
______________________
Frank Wanicka

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
I thought the 3/4-1 ton had the same front brakes. They both use the
same hubs, 8 lug. 3/4 ton came with dana 44 (with optional dana 60
front) and 8 lug, while 1 ton had standard dana 60 front with 8 lug. The
3/4 has different knuckles than 1 ton, but splindle, hubs, rotors are the
same, from what I'm told. Know somethin I don't???

OX

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unfortunately it's pretty much out of the question. At least with the
calipers I have. Everyone I've spoken to that has experience in the
matter
has said the same. One person said if you used Ch*bby calipers, you can
do
it with just minor grinding. That's out of the question for me too.
Mine
are the dual piston type from a 75' F250, and I did some measuring
against
some 8 lug 15" wheels. I would've had to grind at least a 1/2 inch from
the calipers, which is obviously way to much. The only thing holding me
back from installing these suckers is saving up for 16.5" wheels & tires,
but it will be worth it in the end. Besides, your choices for 8 lug 15"
wheels are VERY slim.

Michael R. Masse

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
One of the 4x4 mags did it a few years back on their chebby project
truck, I think the name of the project was Cheap Thrills. If memory
serves
you'll need to lot of caliper grinding to get it to work.

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can use the spider and caliper off a dana 44 on a dana 60 the
rotor size is the same, i'm doing the conversion right now.

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can buy 8 liug, 15" wheels already made for this purpose but the
interferance with the disk on the front may be a problem with cast
wheels. Steel wheels are thinner so take up less space on the inside
where the rotor is and may work but I'm not sure about that. You can
also use less back spacing to get more clearance but there are limits
to that too for tire wear and handling.

Gary -
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 08:44:31 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 9" gear changes

> From: jniolon uss.com
> Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 06:33 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: 9" gear changes

> all the "experts" I talk to here in B'ham tell me that you can
> exchange ring and pinion gears from a conventional 9" pumpkin
> with a limited slip or equal-loc. As long as the carrier
> bearings are the same size. i.e. small bearing carrier or large
> bearing carrier.

Ring gear doesn't care about type of locker.

> But I want the word from the real experts. I've received a
> reply on a 9" equal-loc with 3.5 gears and want to make sure I
> can put my tall(er) gears (2.75) in this pumpkin.

The carrier has a flange for the ring gear. The only difference I'm
aware of is the flange location axially to allow for thinner ring
gears without the carrier hitting the housing. The step over is
around 3.73 or 3.86 so your are fine in any case.

> My second question is ...with my calculations given the
> following data 26.5" tires & 2.75 gears 70 mph = 2440 rpm
> 26.5" tires & 3.50 gears 65 mph = 3106 rpm
>
> giving a 666 rpm difference
>
> I know it's only 666 rpms but is it worth the trouble to change
> out the gears for a 666 rpm drop while cruising. Keep in mind
> this is a 460/C-6 mildly built combo in a '53 F-100 that is
> going to be a cruise machine instead of for racing.

I typically just calculate for 60 mph since that's my normal cruise.
If you jump around you confuse the issues.

Your tires with 2.75 gears should net you 2162 rpm at 60 and with
3.50 gears 2751. This is a significant differnce if economy or power
either one is being considered. My feeling on this is, since new
vehicle with OD's run about 1800 rpm at 60, if we keep our 460's
around 2k rpm at 60 we will be about right depending on camming.
Mine has a torque cam which makes it happy in that range. New
vehicles are also cammed to take advantage of the OD's and are
designed to make torque at 1800 rpm. This is a very important fact
to consider when spending hard earned cash on tires or gears.

I have this same combo in my 78 PU with a "wide ratio" C-6 which
really helps the bottom end at stop lights and effectively makes 3rd
gear an overdrive of sorts. Without the wide ratio you will notice
quite a bit if lugging from zero and will affect the gas mileage due
to this. The engine can pull it easily but it still requires more
throttle to do it. I run 235's which I assume (never measured them)
are about 29" diameter which gives me a calculated 1975 rpm at 60 and
it has very nice performance and I get 12 mpg avg..

> Would the only advantage be gas mileage ? (with a 460 ? yea
> right !)

I have a life goal of getting 15 mpg avg. out of my 460 in a truck
and still be able to outrun screw balls who like to play games on the
highway. Right now my torque cam, non adjustable motorcraft carb and
full length headers, along with air bumps still in the exhaust ports
are keeping my top end down. Before I put the headers on I coult hit
90 in second fairly easily but now I have to let it shift at about
75 or 80 or it chokes which messes up my et's when passing :-)

BTW, my calculations "attempt" to account for the "rolling radius" so
may appear different from yours.

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 07:56:07 -0500
From: Brian
Subject: Engine Parts

Hey gang. I've read alot of posts lately about people looking for
strange engine components and thought I'd pass along this place I
visited for parts for my 460. I was able to pick up a front sump oil pan
and my exhaust manifolds without a problem.What really impressed me is
the guy's knowledge and all the stuff he has.
What was really wild to see was four 427 ford engines in the shop on
engine stands, from side oilers to center oilers etc. The guy is
strictly a ford nut !! He owns four shelby mustangs. He has 428 parts of
many styles...He has over 500 mustangs in his boneyard. If you need a
ford part, at least for your engines, this guy has it !!

His name is Tim Baxter, Baxter auto, He's located in Andover Mn. Just a
few miles north of Minneapolis. Phone is 612-753-3299 As for
pricing....I paid $30.00 for a front sump pan, And $50.00 for a pair of
exhaust manifolds, I'm not sure how these prices are since its not every
day I'm looking for this stuff. But he had them, and he does ship all
over the country.

Brian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 07:55:59 -0600 (CST)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: Re: Y-Block Question

Neil (as well as anyone else that would like to help),

The concern that I have about my engine is that I put 600 miles
into it (400 at highway speeds). The engine was "knocking" louder than
normal, but I just thought that the valves needed adjusting. I took it
back to get them (the shop that put the engine in for me) to get
the valves readjusted, it did not help. Then I took it back again and
that is when they found the head so dry that it was starting to rust. They
had to replace the rocker assembly and four rocker arms and that is when
they noticed that there was only one tube on the other head.
It looks like the machine shop is going to replace the tube with a
piece of regular old copper tubing. Is this a good idea?

What are the chances that other parts of the engine are damaged? The
truck was also hesitating pretty bad, I am not sure if it was because of
the bad rocker assembly or some other problem.

Thats for your help,
Jesus Cardoso


On Wed, 4 Feb 1998 robineil juno.com wrote:
> Jesus,
>
> It's me again (Neil). I wasn't able to call my friend today concerning
> the tubes but will for sure tomorrow. In answer to this question, there
> is one on each head. It would seem a little strange if there was only
> one needed. The reason for the tubes is that there is not sufficient oil
> ports in the heads to get the oil to the rockers, therefore, the tubes
> provide the needed oil to lubricate the valve springs, rockers and
> pushrods. My engine has the tube on both heads. When I rebuilt my
> engine the first time, I made the mistake of placing the tube on
> backwards on one of the heads. Needless to say, I ended up buying a new
> rocker arm and two rockers because they froze up due to the lack of oil.
> If you are missing the one, I would be very careful driving and don't
> drive very far or for very long. Sounds like the guy at the machine shop
> is trying to cover his butt, unless it was missing in the first place.
>
> Neil G. von Koehe
>

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy
Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab)
Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University
College Station, TX 77843-3128
w: 409-845-4623, h: 409-775-0737, fax: 845-6259
Personal Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214
e-mail: cardoso ee.tamu.edu, url: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 08:10:12 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: 1999 F-Series

I was looking at the '99 F-Series and a friend looked over my shoulder and
said, "It looks like a Dodge." At first I scoffed but then noticed the way
the hood dips at the fenders as it goes over the grille, just like a Dodge.
Not as dramatic a change as the Dodge, but it's there. Damn, kinda took
the shine off it for me. Agree? Disagree?


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 06:17:33 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Re: Steering wheels cracking Article

Several steering wheel resto articles have recommended Marine-Tek
brand epoxy to fill in the cracks....but I bet any good epoxy would
work as well :)

===
John Pajak JSPajak rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

75 F100 2WD 360/C6
68 Fairlane 500 SW 351W/FMX
+ others
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 06:28:46 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: '62 Tailgate

I'm getting ready to get my truck painted and am getting in a panic. I'm
trying to find either a tailgate (in good shape) or a tailgate cover for my
particular truck: A '62 Unibody short box(probably doesn't make a
difference if it's long or short). It would be nice to get the tailgate
painted along with the rest of the truck.

Thanks for any help you guys can give. I've been reading this list for
some time now and have a lot of faith in you...

Dennis in Kennewick

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 09:33:23 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Slip yoke

brian writes: >>Do 2wheel drive trucks normally come with a slip yoke
at the tranny ? Or do I have a car tranny ?

Yes! 2WD trucks have slip yokes.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 09:40:48 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: '62 Tailgate, unibody?

> Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 06:28:46 -0800
> From: Dennis Pearson
> Subject: '62 Tailgate

> cover for my particular truck: A '62 Unibody short box(probably

I'm kinda curious what truck has a unibody?? I know what unibody
means with cars that have no frame but I've never heard of a truck
like that? Is this the chopped off van of the early 60's with pickup
bed instead of van body??

Can you tell the list is slow today? :-)

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 06:45:06 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Re: '62 Tailgate, unibody?

- ---"Gary, 78 BBB" wrote:
I'm kinda curious what truck has a unibody?? I know what unibody
means with cars that have no frame but I've never heard of a truck
like that? Is this the chopped off van of the early 60's with pickup
bed instead of van body??

>No! From 61-63 Ford made pickups with the cab and bed as an integral
unit. They still had full frames. 2wd and 4wd Flaresides came with
separate boxes but the there a 2wd and 4wd and style side 4x4s still
had separate boxes though

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 09:53:22 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Liters

Yo Gary: The conversion factor Liters to Cu In is 61.02 Cu In per
liter, therefore 61.02 X 7 = 427.14.

I still do not remember FOMOCO referencing the 427 or the 429 as 7
liters. They did refer to the 428 as 7liter and it was offered in the
'66 & '67 galaxie XL whatever wirh special trim and the 7 liter
designation was on the front fenders and I believe in one corner of the
grill. Anyone out there got one????????/ Go look and tell us. The
428CJ was not offered till mid year '68 in Mustangs and Torinos.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 09:56:03 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 1999 F-Series

> Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 08:10:12 -0600
> From: John Strauss
> Subject: 1999 F-Series

> Not as dramatic a change as the Dodge, but it's there. Damn, kinda
> took
> the shine off it for me. Agree? Disagree?

Let me just say this about that.............personally I'd like to
see a ford "Trans Am" of the older vintage and shape or a
continuation of the original (only REAL) T-Bird of 55 - 57 vintage.
Is that betrayal? I like the dodge trucks look but it's not a ford
and since I work for ford I only buy fords and even go so far as to
check the stickers to make sure they were at least assembled in the
USA. This is not patriotism, just job security IMHO so don't confuse
my intentions. Fortunately I also happen to like fords.

The Mustang is just a fast, ugly brick IMHO. The XKE Jag now is a
sports car, looks like a sports car and runs and handles like a
sports car. Why doesn't ford have one? Well they do now since they
own Jaguar but it's not American made or I'd buy one. (that is if
they still made them :-( )

I really loved my little 65 scout pickup. Why doesnt' ford make a
small 4x4 like that?? I'd love to have a ford "jeep cj" but ford
doesn't make them so I don't have one. Is that disloyal? Closest
thing I'm likely to get into is the bob tail if I ever find one I can
afford..............Sure, the bronco II is small but it's not fough
like the scout or bobtails and most of them are rusted away now
anyway..........and the seats are made for little girls not
men.......Have I made my point yet, what the heck WAS my
point?.......Oh, I think, disagree :-)

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 06:55:33 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Fwd: Re: '62 Tailgate, unibody?

sorry I hit xmit too soon, HERE'S THE WHOLE MSG

- ---"Gary, 78 BBB" wrote:
I'm kinda curious what truck has a unibody?? I know what unibody
means with cars that have no frame but I've never heard of a truck
like that? Is this the chopped off van of the early 60's with pickup
bed instead of van body??

>No! From 61-63 Ford made pickups with the cab and bed as an integral
unit in short and long wb form. They still had full frames. 2wd and
4wd Flaresides of that period came with separate boxes but the style
side 4x4s still had separate boxes though...they used the 57-60 unit
which didn't really match the cab lines very well. I think potential
vibration caused Ford to be scared of offering the Unibody in 4wd.
Unibodies are neat....they sorta remind me of big Rancheros. I'm still
looking for a 61 Unibody myself!

===
John Pajak JSPajak rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

75 F100

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 09:58:34 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Vacuum modulator

Brian writes;>>One more question though...should the modulator valve on
the tranny be hooked up to the carb vacuum or should I use a port in
the intake ??

Use the Intake vacuum.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 10:09:29 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Slip yokes

I junked out a '75 F250 4X4 and still have the C6 from it. It has a
bolted on yoke. My '76 F150 4X4 had a married transfer case, so only
the xfercase had a yoke. I have a '77 F250 4X4 that I'm doing a
complete frame-off rebuild on, and it has a bolted on yoke and a
divorced xfercase with a short driveshaft between the tranny and xfer
case. The drive shaft itself has a splined slip joint in it. In fact
all three drivesfafts in this truck have splined slip joints in them
and the ends are all bolted directly to the yokes through the u-joints.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 07:14:10 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: '62 Tailgate, unibody?

The Unibody ( a term which is not official Ford, but one which is used by
we who own one) is a Custom Cab wide box with a one unit cab-bed
construction.
They were produced 1961-1963, I believe, with production stopped sometime
in mid-1963. They are fairly difficult to find in any kind of condition,
especially since, when you think about it, the construction design was not
really such a great idea in a truck that may sometimes get "used and
abused" but their owners, resulting in "not-so-straight" bodies. They are
(IMHO) great looking trucks for daily driving. Mine is a model that is
even harder to find a "big rear window" model, and I love it, especially
with the 351C someone before me installed. Just listening to it idle with
its mild cam is a thrill. Anyway, I still need a tailgate (or cover), It
is the one part of the truck that is "butt-ugly."

Thanks for your message at 09:40 AM 2/5/98 +0000, Gary, 78 BBB. Your
message was:
>> Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 06:28:46 -0800
>> From: Dennis Pearson
>> Subject: '62 Tailgate
>
>> cover for my particular truck: A '62 Unibody short box(probably
>
>I'm kinda curious what truck has a unibody?? I know what unibody
>means with cars that have no frame but I've never heard of a truck
>like that? Is this the chopped off van of the early 60's with pickup
>bed instead of van body??
>
>Can you tell the list is slow today? :-)
>
>Where's Murphy when
>you really need him??
>
>-- Gary --
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 10:11:41 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Liters

> From: am14 chrysler.com
> Subject: Liters
> Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 09:53:22 -0500

> Yo Gary: The conversion factor Liters to Cu In is 61.02 Cu In per
> liter, therefore 61.02 X 7 = 427.14.

I just did a rough conversion using 5.8 and 351 to approximate it
since I didn't have the factor lying around anywhere :-) It turns
out that using your factor the 5.8 is really a 5.752212389. Dang, I
feel cheated :-)

And the 302 is really only............

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 10:14:27 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: '62 Tailgate, unibody?

> Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 06:45:06 -0800 (PST)
> From: John Pajak
> Subject: Re: '62 Tailgate, unibody?

> >No! From 61-63 Ford made pickups with the cab and bed as an
> >integral
> unit. They still had full frames. 2wd and 4wd Flaresides came with
> separate boxes but the there a 2wd and 4wd and style side 4x4s still
> had separate boxes though

Ok, since I've tapped a well spring of knowledge here, what do they
call the van/pickup dohickys and what years were they made?

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 07:15:38 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Re: '62 Tailgate, unibody?

- ---Dennis Pearson wrote:
Anyway, I still need a tailgate (or cover), It is the one part
of the truck that is "butt-ugly."

>>I think a good metal man could make a cover out of sheetmetal, bent
to the right curves, and then welded in place. A unibody would look
really cool with a flush tailgate! Not necessarily cheap to do but
maybe worth it :)

John Pajak

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 10:30:19 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 400 rebuild

Tyler writes: >>and possibly new timing chain.

Do the timing chain and the cam gear, unless you've just put in a new
one in the last few thousand miles or so. A good investment.

If the block is still naked (nothing in it yet), I might get a machine
shop to slightly "deck"it. not much, but enough to make it "square" to
the centerline of the crank, and mill the heads just slightly. Again,
not too much. Just enough to even up the cylinders end to end and head
to head. Compression up to approx 9.5 should run OK on reg. pump gas,
and compression will help an engine come to life as much as
cams/headers etc. Call up an automotive machine shop, and see what
cost is involved?? Might be worth your time and money.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 10:36:19 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 292

Jesus writes: Other sources have told me that they have a tube on
each
of the heads. Is the guy at the machine shop just covering is butt or
is he right?

One per head I think is correct. Maybe thats what he meant also.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 10:43:17 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 428 flywheel

Jeff writes>>I just called a local balancing shop and I asked him if he
knew anything about big block Fords, and he said "more than I want to".
I told him about my flywheel problem, and he said to just bring him my
428 crank, my 390 flywheel (the 390 flywheels are bigger and heavier
than the 360's by the way), and he'll add the counter balance to the
flywheel and then balance the whole assembly for $150.

Not a bad price by any means. Be sure you take the vibration damper
and the spacer between it and the crank gear also. He will need all of
the crankshaft parts that play a part in "balance".

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 11:24:34 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Brakes, bleeding, pressure......

Well, I just ordered my super duper hifalutin Phoenix Systems
pressure bleeder for $70 plus $10 shipping and another $18 for a
nice case to keep it in so my total bill is $98 (this better work!).
I should have it in a few days and will update Y'all on it's
attirbutes. They have 4 different packages and several pumps
apparently. I got the cheapest one with hose, quick disconnects and
caps for brake fluid cans etc.. Only thing that worries me is that
it's all plastic and I'm not very kind to my tools. Hope it holds
up. The one with the bottle was $125 so I couldn't see any
advantage to this for that much money. I will allow vacuum testing
up to about 20" Hg and pressure flushing with fluid up to about 100
psi so should be adequate for my needs.

Last night I realized that since I have the double flare tools now I
can put the original master cylinder fittings back on without having
to use adapters etc. so I replaced one of them (only one I had lying....


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