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Return-Path: Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 12:45:16 -0700 (MST) From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest To: fordtrucks61-79-digest Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #63 Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, February 2 1998 Volume 02 : Number 063 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks61-79-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: tall rear gear ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] RE: 460 in a 56 F-100 [jniolon Magazines & Custom [Jeffrey.Carver Re: ITS ALIVE !!!!! [Brian ] Re: New V-10, Diesel, msc. [Gardner ] Re: ITS ALIVE !!!!! [danadeb RE: Truckin rags ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] RE: Truckin rags ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: Ignition Question ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: F350 4x4's ["Bill Beyer" ] TIB LIVES ON [John Strauss ] Re: Rear springs [John Pajak ] Re: Flywheel problem ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: ITS ALIVE !!!!! [Brian ] Various [am14 Advance [am14 Toppers, Shells, Cap's [Keith Srb ] Re: tall rear gear ["Bill Beyer" ] Advance [am14 RE: Intierior Trim Restoration, kind of... ["Hogan, Tom" Twin I beam [am14 Re: ITS ALIVE !!!!! [Don Grossman ] Re: Dura-spark ????? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: Ramblings [John Pajak ] '68 390 2v to a 4v [tfmf211 FW: Headers and a C-6? [tfmf211 Re: Front end alignment [Jim Craig ] Dual Point Ignitions [Keith Srb ] Re: Front end alignment [John Pajak ] Re: '68 390 2v to a 4v [SuperMagot Re: Intierior Trim Restoration, kind of... [Floyd Terrell ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 07:36:30 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: tall rear gear > From: bradyiii > Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 19:17:52 +0000 > Subject: tall rear gear > I found a 2.75 in the junkyard for $100. I figure for a little more > I can get new gears without having to roll around in the mud of a > junkyard. The problem is that all the ring and pinions I see are > 3.5 and above. Know of any sources for a 2.75 rear? 3.00 is the tallest "standard" anyone has now for the 9" due to lack of interest in the after market I'm sure. Many companies will make special order gears for a very unreasonable price if it's really that important to you. I'm running 2.75's in my PU with wide ratio C-6 and small stock tires. What exactly are you trying to do? Vehicle weight, type? engine? tranny? Tires? Usage? Where's Murphy when you really need him?? - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 06:59 -0400 (EDT) From: jniolon Subject: RE: 460 in a 56 F-100 Gil (and others) You can put a 460 in a 56 with a little work.. I'm putting one in a 53 and the frames and cab location are the same. Depending on your front suspension changes you might have to offset it some and build some motor mounts, but that's no biggie. I've seen really nice setups in 53's 54's and 56's... Come to Pigeon Forge this May and you'll see several...One in particular is Ed Thomas' beautiful red F-100 I think there is an article in Classic Truck this month on his. If I can help you any, email me off line at jniolon good luck ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 05:21:27 -0800 From: Jeffrey.Carver Subject: Magazines & Custom Last week were some questions about various customizing projects along with some grumblings about the lack of availability of magazines. I dropped by Sacramento Vintage Ford on the way home Friday (first time to visit them). Not only did they have a real large showroom full of nice goodies, they have MANY recent magazines for custom, street, stock, etc. along with a lot of books on the subjects. Give them a call, tell them what custom project you are thinking about, they can probably find a mag or a book with what you need. The can be reached at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.vintage-ford.com/ Phone 916-489-3444 I bought a single pair of door seals, and a plastic thingy that goes between the horn ring and hub. OOTD I'll get the seals installed. - - Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 07:36:31 -0500 From: Brian Subject: Re: ITS ALIVE !!!!! No...I have no books for the '64. I do have some things that go back to '69 though. The charging systems should still be pretty close though ?? Well its still not going anywhere soon as I now need to find a drive shaft and have it cut and balanced to fit. The nut who owned the truck before thought the best way to repair the u-joint was to put in one that was to small for the yokes...then tack weld the caps to the yokes !! Quite brilliant don't ya think Brian ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 08:47:24 -0500 From: Gardner Subject: Re: New V-10, Diesel, msc. Tyler Abbott wrote: > > Sure the Dodge hp/torque numbers look good, but FORDs V-10 is a lot smaller. > If you're to compare hp/displacement in. or torque/displacement, you get > some good looking numbers: FORD Dodge > 265hp/415ci 300hp/488ci > .64 hp per ci .61 hp per ci > > 410ft/415ci 450ft/488ci > .99 ft per ci .92 ft per ci > Not too shabby the way I look at it. > -Tyler- > > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ > | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 > | List removal information is on the web site. | > +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ Thats a whole different story...There are plenty of smaller displacement engines like ferrari F50 V-12 but it pumps out 512 hp ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 07:12:36 -0800 From: danadeb Subject: Re: ITS ALIVE !!!!! Brian wrote: > > No...I have no books for the '64. I do have some things that go back to > '69 though. The charging systems should still be pretty close though ?? > If I can find it a friend of mine drew a schematic of the under hood electrical system. I can scan it and e-mail it to you if you would like! > Well its still not going anywhere soon as I now need to find a drive > shaft and have it cut and balanced to fit. The nut who owned the truck > before thought the best way to repair the u-joint was to put in one that > was to small for the yokes...then tack weld the caps to the yokes !! > Quite brilliant don't ya think That's a first for me!!! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 10:43:10 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: RE: Truckin rags > From: "Gillespie, John D." > Subject: RE: suicide doors > Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 12:56:47 -0500 > Gary, I agree with you and living down here in San Diego, never get > to see the GOOD magazines. So Please Deacon let us uninformed know > the address/url to s*bscribe. I looked this weekend and found "Dodge Truckin" which was one big rag, must be a large following, and plain "Truckin" but no "Ford Truckin". At least I wasn't insulted again by "Ch**y Truckin" which apparently doesn't exist or "5.0 Truckin" or "Mustang Truckin" or........ :-) I guess the rags figure the 4x4 rags cover it well enough. I happened to luck onto one that had mostly ford articles in it, the Jan 4x4 Power, with a good layout on engine specs and building tips. I never realized that the 460 is balanced through the front seal sleeve from 78 on?? I think they must have made a boo boo on that one. 78 on, yes but sleeve? NO! Damper maybe, but the sleeve is too small in diameter and mass to have much affect on balance?? Normal procedure would be flex plate/flywheel and front damper to externally ballance. Previous to 78 they were "Neutral" or internally ballanced so flywheels and dampers won't interchange between post 78's and pre's. Where's Murphy when you really need him?? - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 07:51:03 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: RE: Truckin rags > From: "Gillespie, John D." > Subject: RE: suicide doors > Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 12:56:47 -0500 > Gary, I agree with you and living down here in San Diego, never get > to see the GOOD magazines. So Please Deacon let us uninformed know > the address/url to s*bscribe. I looked this weekend and found "Dodge Truckin" which was one big rag, must be a large following, and plain "Truckin" but no "Ford Truckin". At least I wasn't insulted again by "Ch**y Truckin" which apparently doesn't exist or "5.0 Truckin" or "Mustang Truckin" or........ :-) I guess the rags figure the 4x4 rags cover it well enough. I happened to luck onto one that had mostly ford articles in it, the Jan 4x4 Power, with a good layout on engine specs and building tips. I never realized that the 460 is balanced through the front seal sleeve from 78 on?? I think they must have made a boo boo on that one. 78 on, yes but sleeve? NO! Damper maybe, but the sleeve is too small in diameter and mass to have much affect on balance?? Where's Murphy when you really need him?? - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 10:43:10 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: Ignition Question > From: bradyiii > Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 19:17:52 +0000 > Subject: Ignition Question > Good thinking, I checked it today and it was about 33 degrees! I > knocked it down to 10 and I didn't notice the usual hot start > problem. Why would the truck start normally cold but struggle when > warm even though it was advanced too far? Thanks. Technically you'd think since the mixture is richer when cold it would complain ever more but the mixture is richer because most of it doesn't get mixed and the combustion chamber is cold so ignition is slowed somewhat. Still, 33 degrees seems like enough to cause some kicking? Sounds like the vac isn't working consistantly and the timing may have been set with the vac stuck in an intermediate position. This happened to me and I didn't think to check it's operation at the time so set mine wrong too. You guys with timing problems should check the vac linkage and diaphram condition (make sure it works freely) before addressing any other aspects so you are working with a known condition which doesn't change on you to cause all manner of grief :-) When you suddenly start getting spark knock when it wasn't there before the vac should be the first thing that comes to mind IMHO :-) I sprayed oil (wd40) and moved the plate by hand till it was working freely. The plate on mine really needs to be replaced by a little oil and elbow grease keeps it working for now. Where's Murphy when you really need him?? - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 07:42:11 -0800 From: "Bill Beyer" Subject: Re: F350 4x4's - ---------- > From: Kurt Albershardt > To: fordtrucks61-79 > Subject: Re: F350 4x4's > Date: Thursday, January 29, 1998 10:10 AM > > This is the famous "reverse cut" D60. Got any you'd like to sell? Actually I "misspoke" a little. The term is "reverse rotation" The pinion & ring gear are cut opposite of a standard diff. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 09:45:16 -0600 From: John Strauss Subject: TIB LIVES ON Thank you Ford for not TOTALLY losing you mind and doing away with Twin-I-Beam altogether. I have always maintained this was the more rugged setup and set Ford trucks apart as putting toughness first. Apparantly Ford agrees to some extent as the new 1999 F-250/F-350 2WD trucks will be equipped with TIB front suspension. If the time comes that I must have a new truck, it's nice to know I still have FORD to run to without having to swallow my pride and take a double A-arm (read CHEVY) setup. Thanks, Ford, for keeping something that makes a Ford truck a FORD truck. _ _| ~~. John Strauss \, _} jstrauss \( Texas Fight! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 07:56:26 -0800 (PST) From: John Pajak Subject: Re: Rear springs Jphn, why don't you just get the springs from a 3/4 (F250) and install in your F100 rather than the F150 springs. They will bolt in from most any year below the '78. (I think '78 is when they went to the wider spring.) Azie Thank Azie, I'll try that! More good info from the list! John Pajak _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 11:07:02 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: Flywheel problem > From: Schottsweb > Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 17:22:27 -0500 > Subject: Flywheel problem > got from the junk yard C6AE-6680-C now from what I've learned here > on this list that # tells me it came from a 1966 right? The motor is > a 71 so I bolt the flywheel onto the crankshaft then tap in the I found that the 335 series has two bolt patterns due to the swap from M to W at some point and the difference is 1/2". Since the 302 is a small block it may share the crank boss and bolt pattern of the 351 in which case there may be some ambiguity at the junk yard level?? The 289 may have a differnt clutch pattern as well since it inherited the "Y" block components at some point probably. Ask them to look at the 351M pressure plate just for kicks. If it fits your flywheel you may have a hybrid, mid season, grab what we got flywheel?? Make sure it was not made for the 335 series since thay are all externally balanced and won't work on the 302. Course the part no/date may exclude that possibility, not sure..... Just some thoughts, I'm not a small block person so none of this may apply...........:-) Where's Murphy when you really need him?? - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 10:19:23 -0500 From: Brian Subject: Re: ITS ALIVE !!!!! danadeb > > Brian wrote: > > > > No...I have no books for the '64. I do have some things that go back to > > '69 though. The charging systems should still be pretty close though ?? > > > > If I can find it a friend of mine drew a schematic of the under hood electrical > system. I can scan it and e-mail it to you if you would like! > > That would be great, I could use it to identify a few wires that come out of the fire wall and go no where. Also I don't seem to have any brake lights right now....And I'm sure the headlight switch is junk since when I tried to pull it out....just the knob came off !! Thanks....Brian ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 11:35:56 -0500 From: am14 Subject: Various Mike in seattle (and its probably raining there) asked: have a F-100 72' it has a 302 with a 3 speed on the column.. anyway I want to put a 4 barrel on it for more umphhh. Will a Elderbrock 600 Carb and Manifold be too much for this engine? That's 1 Next what about a 4 speed, should I hit the yards or look in the paper or check with a trans shop ? Also what trans would you recommend I put in it? 600 CFM is not too much for a stock 302. Do you want a "Granny low" 4 speed or a close ratio 4 speed???? Either way, I would hit the "boneyards". going to a tranny shop takes all the fun out, and probably too expensive. The "classifieds" aren't bad, but I find them to be more misleading and/or not as knowledgable about their parts as the yards. (have you considered the 5 speed that comes in the mid '80's and later Mustangs??????? They aren't tough enough for Large CID, but I would think for a 302 in a truck, it would be OK.) Azie ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 11:51:19 -0500 From: am14 Subject: Advance Jim writes:>>I have a '71 F100 with a 360FE and points ignition. I recently replaced the battery and starter. The truck starts fine when cold but when warmed up it seems to struggle like it is having a hard time turning over. I should have added in my previous post one other symptom I've had in relation to had to start once vehicle has reached operating temp.. I bought a rebuilt starter several years ago and installed on a '61 Galaxie. It would crank just fine cold - would not turn over when hot. I tried everything else, then yanked the starter out and took it back to the parts house and swapped it for another rebuilt starter. This one cured the problem. (I had a hard time convincing the parts house operator to give me another starter, but he did finally.) Apparently one of the fields in the housing was bad and it would start on just one field when cold and compression was lower, but wouldn't even turn over when up to temp. Anyway it cured the problem. Azie ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 10:11:53 -0700 From: Keith Srb Subject: Toppers, Shells, Cap's Hi all, I need to find a Topper for my 74 F250. I need one that I can hang curtains in, because I am going to use this Truck to pull my boat to the lake and I am going to sleep inside the topper, as well as change clothes, etc. Do any of you guys that have Toppers now have any suggestions, comments, thing to look for etc.? Thanks! Keith Srb herbie http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie Mesa, AZ 1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed. 1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up. 1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side. 1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air Cleaner, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box. My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 07:11:54 -0800 From: "Bill Beyer" Subject: Re: tall rear gear - ---------- > I found a 2.75 in the junkyard for $100. I figure for a little more > I can get new gears without having to roll around in the mud of a > junkyard. The problem is that all the ring and pinions I see are 3.5 > and above. Know of any sources for a 2.75 rear? Reider Racing (800 357-1330) lists a 3.00 for your application. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 11:48:16 -0500 From: am14 Subject: Advance Jim writes:>>I have a '71 F100 with a 360FE and points ignition. I recently replaced the battery and starter. The truck starts fine when cold but when warmed up it seems to struggle like it is having a hard time turning over. A sure fire symptom of too much advance in the Distributor initial setting. Need to retard dist approx 4/6 deg and vehicle will start better. (My experience) Azie ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 08:36:32 -0800 From: "Hogan, Tom" Subject: RE: Intierior Trim Restoration, kind of... John, Define "in good condition" :0). If you mean has no cracks on it good luck. The design that Ford used for steering wheels before about '77 all cracked. I seriously doubt you will be able to find one that is in perfect condition. The design problem is that the 73-76 wheels were one piece -- steel covered with an epoxy or polymer of some kind. When the wheel got hot the steel expanded faster than the plastic and cracked it. If you look at 77-79 they changed the design and those will not fit a 73-76. The change included a separate plastic piece that covered the center section allowing the wheel to expand. Having said that I do have two wheels here. I just retrofitted a factory cruise control to my truck and have 1 cruise compatible wheel and one standard wheel. I have a horn instert for the standard wheel and no instert for the cruise wheel. If interested drop me a line. Also I did see a steering wheel repair kit at one of the online restoration parts houses. Kanter auto products at www.kanter.com. I have no idea what is in the kit. Good luck. I am at about the same state in my truck. Trying to save enough money to get the seats redone but I keep spending it on other projects. (The cruise control for example.) Tom H San Francisco, California 76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE 96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod) ________________________________________________________________ Steering wheels.... anyone have a good line on steering wheels? or have an extra that is in good condition? please let me know. This is not a resto but I like everything to be what it is suppose to be and to work as it should. Somebody at some point in this trucks life really abused the wheel and it shows. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 12:30:25 -0500 From: am14 Subject: Twin I beam Jim Writes (and its probably still raining in seattle) : >>Does the 65-66 use the twin I beam do they still have the beam axle? Jim '65 was the 1st year for the now defunct Twin I beam. Azie ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 09:47:02 -0800 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re: ITS ALIVE !!!!! Brian wrote: > > That would be great, I could use it to identify a few wires that come out of the fire wall and go no where. Also I don't seem to have any brake lights right now....And I'm sure the headlight switch is junk since when I tried to pull it out....just the knob came off !! > > Thanks....Brian Anyway part of the wires that you are missing do go to the pressure switch for the brake lights. I just installed a peddle switch and a nice little relay for the brake lights. - -- Don Grossman duckdon 63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 13:17:34 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: Dura-spark ????? > From: "Deacon" > Subject: Re: Dura-spark ????? > Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 18:43:36 -0800 > >Help!! Help !! Help !! I want to hear this thing run !! I've > >spent about $3000.00 on this engine and I need to hear the noise !! > > I just have one suggestion. Leave the white wire disconnected until > you have it running good. You can hook it up later if you want to. > Every time you crank it over the module will retard your timing and > when you let go of the key, timing returns to normal. Without having > everything adjusted yet this auto retard will drive you nuts. I've > read that some people never got their engines to run with the white > wire hooked up. Ok, I've talked till I'm outa breath but this "auto retard" thing is news to me?? AFAIK the dura spark II does not retard anything?? If you run the red wire to the start pin or the run pin, it either won't fire or won't continue to run depending on which pin you hook to and since the ACC pin is disconnected on start that probably won't work either. If you really want it to start AND run then you need to run a wire from the start pin and the run pin to the red module wire but then the starter won't shut off.............hmmmmmmmmm.......It's real easy, just hook the white wire to the start pin and the red wire to the run pin and forget the votage thing for the moment and see if it starts......?? There are several types of harness out there but the one I like and am most familiar with has the green and red coil wires connected so all you have to do is plug them in to the plugs in the system, hook up the red and white input wires and it's done?? The schematics can get you confused since they don't show all the connections the way they look on the truck......:-( The red coil wire is still a question mark so I'll have to look it up, maybe tonight if I can remember to do it :-) Where's Murphy when you really need him?? - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 10:29:48 -0800 (PST) From: John Pajak Subject: Re: Ramblings - ---Deacon wrote: Are you kidding me? I put 1700lbs in my '73 F100 and not only did it sit on the snubbers it bent my rim. Granted my springs were bad but 4000lbs is a lot of weight. God my trucks a wuss. I'm going out and slap it! :) >> I know for sure I had 3300 lbs of blue chip in there according to the scale at the gravel plant....The truck empty with me (200)in it is 4400 lbs. It read 7700 lbs that day! Another time I got gravel and there was no scale so I let the guy fill the truck till it sat on the snubbers. Both times I drove about 10 miles home (slowly)....the 30x9.50x15s didn't pop and nothing broke (yet) :) The 3300 load was with the original springs.....the "new" 77 F150 springs in there now are much stiffer than the originals...so that second load must have been more to compress those springs.....Right now there's 50 sheets of 1/2" plywood in the back...probably 1500-1700 lbs...and it's ALMOST on the snubbers (again)! === John Pajak JSPajak Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak 75 F100 (overworked!) _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 13:30:56 +0000 From: tfmf211 Subject: '68 390 2v to a 4v I would like to change my current 2v manifold to a 4v manifold on my 390.=20 Sounds easy to me, pull the distributor, disconnect the carb linkage unbol= t=20 the old manifold, install the new, install carb, linkage, distrubutor and=20 tune. Is it just that easy or am I missing something? (Like I usually do=20 :-)) On the linkage there is a piece which the guys at Ford call a Trottle= =20 Swivel Assy., it mounts to the rear of the manifold on the drivers side=20 and controls the linkage from the pedal going to the carb. Mine twist badl= y=20 and needs to be replaced, is this the true name of this part? Does any one= =20 have one they are willing to sell? I lose over half of my throttle due to=20 the twist of this piece. Any and all help/info will be appreciated. -Ted 68 F100 390 70 Torino GT 351C 87 Ranger 94 Mustang 92 Sentra (Wife's Car) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 13:35:13 +0000 From: tfmf211 Subject: FW: Headers and a C-6? Gentlemen, I'm impressed with the knowledge base located here, it's wonderful. So her= e=20 are a couple of questions I have for you: 1. I have a '68 F100 with a 390 2v. The headers are shot. Major holes! =20= I=20 think I can get these out with out doing any problem, but when I say things= =20 like that I generally get clobbered. So any thoughts about how hard it is=20 to change out headers, with out removing heads and such? 2. Some one earlier said something about you can tell if you have a C-6 if= =20 it has an integral bell housing and the pan has an "L" shape to it? Is thi= s=20 true? I would like to change the shift points of my tranny. Is this=20 accomplished with a torque converter? It shifts smooth, but shifts very=20 quick and at a low RPM range. Any and all help/info will be appreciated. -Ted 68 F100 390 70 Torino GT 351C 87 Ranger 94 Mustang 92 Sentra (Wife's Car) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 14:03:52 -0600 From: Jim Craig Subject: Re: Front end alignment Thomas, On a 2WD Ford, the only steering adjustment is toe. Caster and camber are designed into the I beams themselves. If they are seriously out of wack, then a frame shop will have to torch them and bend them back into spec. I had the exact same problem, and my solution was to add new springs and replace the kingpins and bushings. To this day, it is not completely cured, but after taking a very used '79 F150 for a test drive, My truck was about the safest place I could think to be. Jimbo 77 Supercab ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 12:13:33 -0700 From: Keith Srb Subject: Dual Point Ignitions Would somebody explain to me what a dual point ignition is, I am assuming they use two sets of point instead of just one. Why would someone use a dual point ignition? No I am not planning on using one, Yes i am going to upgrade my trucks to electronic ignition, I am just curious about dual point ignition. Thanks. Keith Srb herbie http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie Mesa, AZ 1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed. 1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up. 1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side. 1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air Cleaner, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box. My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 11:16:21 -0800 (PST) From: John Pajak Subject: Re: Front end alignment - ---Thomas Hogan wrote: It's that time for my truck. The tires are wearing unevenly (inside of driver's and outside of passenger's) and it is a little squirrely on the highway sometimes. The shops I talk to worry me. It seems none of them have the same story. One shop I talked to said something about bending the I beams!! Is this the normal procedure. I don't really want anyone bending ANYTHING on my truck! Another shop said something about 'offset camber bolts'? Had no idea what he was talking about. Help. >>Don't worry....bending is the correct way to set the alignment...The alignment shop did mine this way....they even gave me before and after computer readouts of the camber settings :) John Pajak 75 F100 2WD _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 14:12:32 EST From: SuperMagot.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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