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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:09:42 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #43
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fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, January 26 1998 Volume 02 : Number 043



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Turn signals, and update ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
460 ex manifolds [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: 351M Pinging and Dieseling ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 454 Ford ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Rear Bearings [Tyler Wilkins ]
Re: looking for 390 4bbl manifold [Tyler Wilkins ]
Manual tranny [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: 454 Ford [John MacNamara ]
RE: Highboys [al.giordano AMETEK.COM]
RE: 460 ex manifolds [Sleddog ]
Those emissions again, any tips? ["John F. Bauer III"
Re: Power Steering Conversion [BDIJXS ]
Re: 460 ex manifolds ["Michael Connor" ]
Factory 4WD for late 70s vans? ["John F. Bauer III"
RE: 351M Pinging & Dieseling [Adam Clever ]
Brake light [am14 chrysler.com]
352/390 [am14 chrysler.com]
352/390 [am14 chrysler.com]
P/s things [Brian Koss ]
MOPAR V10 [am14 chrysler.com]
9" [am14 chrysler.com]
RE: Those emissions again, any tips? [Sleddog ]
351M/400 crank swap ["Dave Resch"]
Re: Rear Seals [Don Grossman ]
Re: rear bearings [Charlie Mear ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 07:55:16 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Turn signals, and update

Ok, now that I'm an expert I'll share my expertise :-) It turns out
the the problem was what I first suspected, no power to the switch.
I have replaced the ignition switch (unecessarily of course) so I
ruled that out but the previous ownner had a way of messing up wires
so I took the dash out and started checking. Previously I had
verified that once power got to the switch I could make them work so
eliminated the switch as the cause and both flashers worked as
expected so eliminated them as well but I was getting a very funny
voltage at the flasher plugs. Last night I took the ignition cable
off the switch and located the ACC wires and traced them directly to
the fuse block. Checked the fuses again anf of course they were
still good as before. Checked all the plugs in the chasis and
verified that they were getting good contacts but found no further
plugs under the dash which is what I was hoping for so on a lark I
stuck a scraper across the clips in the fuse block and they worked!!!

Turns out that digital multimeters can't update fast enough to read a
bad connection so you get garbled readings like you do when you don't
press the probe tightly enough for a good contact etc.. Now all I
have to do is figure out how to make the fuse block reliable again.
I sanded and squeezed the ears in but the probelem apparenly is the
buss itself. The clip is rivited to the buss and the rivit is loose
apparently so I wedged a wad of tape against one side of the clip and
it's working right now. Guess I'll call Painless and see if their
block is 100% stock or a total aftermarket thing. Anybody know?

This does not look like a fun project but maybe pulling the clips
etc. will be easier than it looks..............

For the guy who asked a while ago about enclosing the fuse block, the
answer is still no IMHO but now I see why we might be concerned about
it :-) I tried silicone grease but due to the loose buss I couldn't
verify it would work. Seems like it would to me, I put it in all my
other connections from battery to chasis plugs?

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 08:27:35 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 460 ex manifolds

Brian: I used early 429 car types on both mine. Had to notch the
upper ledge of the frame with a 'C' shaped cutout in order to clear on
the pass side only. Not enough to severly weaken the frame, but it
isn't what I would do if I could find the pass side from a '78 or
later truck that had a 460 in it. I understand that this is the
manifold that is needed to keep from doing what I did.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 09:16:32 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 351M Pinging and Dieseling

> Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 13:03:08 -0600
> From: Tyler Wilkins
> Subject: Re: 351M Pinging and Dieseling

> > Sounds like the perfect excuse to pull it apart and decarbon the
> > heads. And since you're going to have to take it apart anyways
> > you might as well slip in a 400 crank, bump the CR a little, a
> > good torque building cam, etc. etc........... ;-)
>
> Ok, now you got me involved in this thread, I've heard plenty on FE
> crank/piston swaps. I guees I never thought about my 351M, Does the
> 400 crank bolt right in? My 351M is just about to be reassembled,
> so now maybe I'll go hunting for a 400 crank first. What kind of
> improvements would this yeild? Any other suggestions before I do my
> re-assembly?

I'm assuming this is about a 351M not W so yes it will but you need
to change the pistions to match the crank. They use the same rods so
the pin height has to be raised in the piston to compensate. Other
wise they're identical :-)

The main improvement will be gobs of torque at lower rpms and more
power over all. It's really hard to tell them apart unless you can
drive one and then the other. I had a 400 in a merc and it had more
scat than the 351's I've had so far even with such a heavy car (74
merc)

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 09:18:56 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 454 Ford

> From: "JAMES MERLO"
> Subject: Re: 454 Ford
> Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 15:29:07 -0600

> It is my understanding that the FE's (having a rocker shaft
> assembly) have greater valve train weight and that limits their
> ability to live at high rpm - although the benefit of the rocker
> shaft is improved valve train stability. Any comments?

Not really. The shaft doesn't turn, just the rockers move so there
is no penalty I can think of? The round shaft probably operates
more smoothly than the pedastal types so might even be an
improvememt, don't know :-)


Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 08:19:06 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: Rear Bearings

> On a full floating rear hub ( Dana 60 in my case ) should the inside of the hub
> be packed with grease like I have always done in the front hubs?
>
> Should I pack grease into the front hubs for that matter?
>
> My shop manual only says pack the bearings, doesn't say anything about grease
> anywhere else.

I always like to make sure the hubs on my 4x4 are packed nice and tight
to prevent water/mud from entering any part of the axle when I'm
wheelin', And I often get up past the axle in water so I'm sure this
helps. When I first bought my '73 there wasn't much grease in the front
hub at all and the hub was locked up tight from water that had made it
into the hub and seized it up but there was grease on the axle so there
was no water in the axle itself, just the inside of the hub. I ended up
replacing the hub with a pair of superwinch hubs from summit.

Speaking of which I'll add my opinion of the hubs. I got the Superwinch
Super Hubs from summit (part #SPW-400517, $90) and I love them! Of
coarse it took them three tries to get the right ones but eventually
they sent me the right hubs, they kept sending me the 1/2 ton hubs for
my '73 F-250, and they kept insisting they were the right ones for my
truck, eventually i convinced them to just send me the 3/4ton hubs with
the $6 next day air because I was planning to be muddin' the upcoming
weekend and I was sure they would fit so they did and sure enough they
were right. So I called them back and said they were right and the guy
reminded me that if I wanted to keep them I would owe them another $25
because the 1/2 ton hubs I paid for were only $57. I told him I refused
to pay it because they insisted for so long it was only $57 because they
were 1/2-ton hubs! And I said I had only been allowed to spend $60 by my
wife. They bought it and not only gave me the 3/4-ton hubs for $57,
they also credited me the $6 I paid for the next-day air. I could have
also calculated the 'hassle' factor in there too if the wife thing
hadn't worked.
Anyways, I like these hubs a lot mainly because the they're all metal!
No plastic holding a little pin that you rely to power your 4-wheel
drive. Those of you with this kind of front hub pull your hub off once
and see what your 4x4 rely's on for 4-wheel drive. I wouldn't and don't
trust the plastic, especially since I've had 2 hubs of this type crack
on the plastic and render my 4-wd useless. Just my opinion though.....

Tyler Wilkins

'73 F-250 4x4, 360, 4-speed, headers, glasspacks, 33" BFG Mud's,
Superwinch hubs, big ol' Western plow......

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 08:22:02 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: looking for 390 4bbl manifold

> >> I have 3 4-V 390 intakes laying in my garage. I live on the Mississippi
> >> Gulf coast. If interested let me know.

Did you give a price, what was it $50+ shipping?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 09:25:19 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Manual tranny

Tyler: Nearly any of the FOMOCO manual transmissions will work. What
you have to be sure of is that the bellhousing will mate to the
engine. The 351M/400 and the 429/460 have a common bolt pattern for
bellhousings. FE's and the 351W/302 are each different, but a manual
transmission from any of these will work. I believe the 351M/400 also
have a unique flywheel. (not sure about this one) Usually the best
bet is to find all the goodies you need from a truck that has/had the
351M, if possible.

Good luck

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 06:52:51 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: 454 Ford

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Gary, 78 BBB wrote:

> > From: "JAMES MERLO"
> > Subject: Re: 454 Ford
> > Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 15:29:07 -0600
>
> > It is my understanding that the FE's (having a rocker shaft
> > assembly) have greater valve train weight and that limits their
> > ability to live at high rpm - although the benefit of the rocker
> > shaft is improved valve train stability. Any comments?
>
> Not really. The shaft doesn't turn, just the rockers move so there
> is no penalty I can think of? The round shaft probably operates
> more smoothly than the pedastal types so might even be an
> improvememt, don't know :-)
>

For you folks that might not remember, 1966 24 hours of Lemans; Ford,
1-2-3 in their GT40's powered by 427 FE's. The fourth place car ( I
think a Porsche) was some 185 miles back. These motors were turning
upwards of 7500 rpm during periods in the race so I think the valve train
issue can be put to rest.

Regards
John




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Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
> From:         
"JAMES MERLO" <JJKMER worldnet.att.net>
> Subject:       Re: 454 Ford
> Date:          Sat,
24 Jan 1998 15:29:07 -0600

> It is my understanding that the FE's (having a rocker shaft
> assembly) have greater valve train weight and that limits their
> ability to live at high rpm - although the benefit of the rocker
> shaft is improved valve train stability.  Any comments?

Not really.  The shaft doesn't turn, just the rockers move so there
is no penalty I can think of?  The round shaft probably operates
more smoothly than the pedastal types so might even be an
improvememt, don't know :-)
 
For you folks that might not remember, 1966 24 hours of Lemans;  Ford,
1-2-3 in their GT40's  powered by 427 FE's.    The
fourth place car ( I think a Porsche) was some 185 miles back.  These
motors were turning upwards of 7500 rpm during periods in the race so I
think the valve train issue can be put to rest.

Regards
John
 
 
 

- --------------ECC842FB99E7F79496BAEAB6--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:00:40 -0500
From: al.giordano AMETEK.COM
Subject: RE: Highboys

Just went through my weekend worth of digest and had to put my two=20
cents in=2E I own a "Highboy" bought brand new off the Ford lot in May=
=20
1977 it has a 7700 GVW , 4" lift blocks between the rear leafs (9) and=
=20
axle and a helper leaf about an inch above those=2E It is all stock=20
except for the hood,fenders and doors=2E It was built in March 1977=2E
The power steering has a control valve that's like a drag link which=20
in turn provides left or right flow to a power piston which is mounted=
=20
to the axle housing and the steering link=2E The engine is the 300-6 H=
D=20
with 120000 original miles ,NP205,NP435 4 spd,Dana 60 & 44HD=2E
It has also plowed snow all it's life =2E I got 90000 mi=2E on the=20
original clutch and it still had meat left on it when I changed it=2E
This is one heck of a truck!!
=20
Al G=2E=20
68 Club Wagon =20=
=20
240-6,3-spd=2E

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:11:58 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 460 ex manifolds

another place to find the manifolds don't forget is in the vans. many vans
have not been cannibalized as much in the junk yard as the trucks.

sleddog

- ----------
From: am14 chrysler.com[SMTP:am14 chrysler.com]
Sent: Monday, January 26, 1998 8:27 AM
To: Fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: 460 ex manifolds

Brian: I used early 429 car types on both mine. Had to notch the
upper ledge of the frame with a 'C' shaped cutout in order to clear on
the pass side only. Not enough to severly weaken the frame, but it
isn't what I would do if I could find the pass side from a '78 or
later truck that had a 460 in it. I understand that this is the
manifold that is needed to keep from doing what I did.

Azie






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:10:09 -0500
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: Those emissions again, any tips?

Group:

Well, the State of Ohio has changed its EPA vehicle emission status yet
again. Previous to 1998, they had a special license plate, called the
Collector Plate, that could be purchased if you met the simple criteria:

- - vehicle worth more than $100.
- - proof of owning a second vehicle for daily driving.

Thus, for an additional $60 fee (gotta love it) + cost of regular plates,
an OH person could get Collector Plates which did not require an EPA test.

So, as Ohioans found this out, it was amazing how many late model, rusted
out clunkers became collector cars just to skip out on the EPA testing.
So, along comes Ohio Revised Code section 4501.01. It says, that if your
vehicle isn't listed in the National Automobile Dealers Association
Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Car Appraisal Guide, you lose and
have to get regular EPA checks. If you are on the list, you can have
collectors plates, but you still have to have EPA checks (no mention of
reduced standards or anything). And for my case, a 1977 Ford 4WD E100 Van
just isn't on the list.

So the question is, do I even have a chance with 460 bored .030" over (I
believe regular cam, but what if the previous owner put something beefy
in?), Holley 4160, Durapark II ignition, Edelbrock performer intake, stock
exhaust manifold, single outlet exhaust without catalytic converter of even
passing the idle test? I have been very successful in the past of getting
testing approval to bypass highway test on other stock vehicles.

Besides the obvious, check timing, verify idle mixture and tune for best
emissions would something like installing one of those universal catalytic
converters (which by the way, 460 did not come with catalytic converter
till something like 1986) increase chances? Has anyone used those home O2
sensor type checkers with much success?

I am hoping others have run into this situation previously and might have
some tips on how to be compliant. Also, might want to check your state to
make sure they aren't pulling something like this. I assume a 1977 F250
4WD is probably also not on the magic list of classic cars. Don't get me
wrong, I want to be environmentally friendly, I only drove this van 350
miles all of 1997.

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:19:42 EST
From: BDIJXS
Subject: Re: Power Steering Conversion

Don,

I see where you will be switching to a 77 front end. I have an almost new set
(complete, about 1800 miles on them) of tie rods for the 77 F-150 4x4....are
you interested? Includes pitman arm.

I have made the same P/S conversion myself, the only hassle (69 F100 4x4) is
you need to cut a small hole in the back of the frame in order to mount the
front bolt on (with a socket) the 77 power steering unit. You can drill
through the frame for the other two, but you'll want to put at least a 1/4"
plate on the back to stiffen up this area....I then put on one of the newer-
style black steering wheels since the bus-sized one wasn't needed any
more....it slipped right on to the old column. The other thing I had to do was
modify the shaft from the u-joint to the steering box to accept a new rag (or
plastic) joint, I think the shaft had to be shortened. You might then have to
adjust the steering stops so your tires don't rub on the front axle support
arms....

Good luck,

Colorado Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 08:28:15 -0700
From: "Michael Connor"
Subject: Re: 460 ex manifolds

Guys, Sleddog makes a good point here. When I did my 460 conversion
I scrounged the parts yards for an alternator bracket that would work. I got
3 different brackets (that didn't work in my application) and finally found
one out of a 1 ton van that worked perfectly. The problem I had is that the
other brackets held the alternator so low that it hit the crossmember
underneath.
The 460 van bracket holds the alternator close, but it does clear and it
works.
I had an even harder time with a power steering bracket. I finally bit
the bullet and bought the L&L bracket. Fits perfectly but they sure are
proud of them.

Hope this helps,

Mike
Phoenix, AZ.




>another place to find the manifolds don't forget is in the vans. many vans
>have not been cannibalized as much in the junk yard as the trucks.
>
>sleddog
>
>----------
>From: am14 chrysler.com[SMTP:am14 chrysler.com]
>Sent: Monday, January 26, 1998 8:27 AM
>To: Fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
>Subject: 460 ex manifolds
>
>Brian: I used early 429 car types on both mine. Had to notch the
>upper ledge of the frame with a 'C' shaped cutout in order to clear on
>the pass side only. Not enough to severly weaken the frame, but it
>isn't what I would do if I could find the pass side from a '78 or
>later truck that had a 460 in it. I understand that this is the
>manifold that is needed to keep from doing what I did.
>
>Azie
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>
>
>
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:52:51 -0500
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: Factory 4WD for late 70s vans?

Group:

Another question, could anyone confirm if Ford actually made 4WD as a stock
option for the Econoline series in the late seventies? I have been told
they may have been called Vanduras or QuadraVans. I am just checking, I
know my 77 4WD econoline is not stock, but just checking to see if they
actually did offer this as an actual stock option.

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 98 07:41:00 -0800
From: Adam Clever
Subject: RE: 351M Pinging & Dieseling

>Help! I need some advice.

This is frightening, the Doctor Devotee needing advice ...

>I have the base timing advanced just 2 degrees from factory spec (12 BTDC

if yours has the nest of vacuum tubing, there may be a leak or
malfunctioning vacuum control valve that causes too much advance or too
soon--coupled with your timing advance might be too much. you might try
connecting carb vacuum directly to the distributor and see what happens

>The combination of pinging and dieseling leads me to guess that the heads
>and piston tops are carboned up pretty bad. Sound right to you? The
>baffling thing is, every time I pull the plugs they are really clean w/ no
>trace of fouling or excess carbon (that would indicate rich running).

sound good (bad), why don't you check the plugs for, oh, uh ...

>Otherwise, this engine runs great. Decent oil pressure, no overheating, no
>visible smoke in the exhaust, no other obvious problems....

well it doesn't leak. it runs awful.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:07:12 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Brake light

Daniel: You got a brake problem and it isn't because you continuously
braked for 20 minutes. The light comes on when there is a pressure
differential between the front and rear systems, or when the emergency
brake pedal is pushed. I would say that you either have a leak at one
of the wheel cylinders/calipers or that the master cylinder is letting
fluid past one of the pistons. A complete check of your brake system
is necessary, as this is dangerous. A safety factor you can't ignore.
Usually (and I say this cautiously) when the light comes on, and will
later go back out, without any repair work being done, it is the master
cylinder allowing seepage by one of the pistons. If it is the piston
fartherest away from the cowl, it merely gets in the other pistons
passage way and is almost undetectable (no visible leakage). You could
have a pinhole in a line, but once the light goes on from one of these,
it usually stays on.
>>Of course, I was always told that the light comeson
when there is a difference in pressure between the two braking circuits.
All I know is that today I am going to pull my wheels and check the pads
and lines. But, does anybody have any idea why my truck is doing this?


Good luck.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:30:46 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 352/390

>>Can this block be used to build a 390?

Yes. Your bore is 4.000" Bore it to 4.050" - purchase a set of 390
pistons - rods - and crankshaft and install with an overhaul kit for a
390of your same year. All bearings- gaskets and seals and flywheel and
vibration damper are the same between the two engines in the same
years. ( If you can find a rebuildable complete engine in the salvage
yard of any year 390, you would have the basics covered, and you could
keep your 352 complete in case you ever decided to change it back to
original. We can get 'core' FE engines here for $100/150 and they are
guaranteed to have no cracks.)

Good luck

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:32:42 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 352/390

Antonio: FOMOCO didn't make a 390 until '61 I think, but everything
else in my previous post applies.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 08:40:01 -0800
From: Brian Koss
Subject: P/s things

When I was looking for a replacement steering box for my 66 4x4 a local
steering shop said the steering box out of a later 70's Bronco was the
easiest to adapt. I bought a box,and pump from a junk yard for $45. When I
went to install it I found that I would have to carve out about 1/2" of the
left side core support to get it to fit which would have been pretty easy.
Two of the three origional bolt matched the frame so only one new hole
would be required in the frame. In the end I found a rebuilt manual unit
and still have all the power stuff. If your interested you can have it for
what I paid for it. I don't need it any more since I bought my wife a Grand
Wagoneer which has power everything and she no longer has a desire to drive
the truck. We both won! The oil companies REALLY one.

Brian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:50:16 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: MOPAR V10

>>>>Dodges V-10 is a tuned down viper motor and there have been tuners
out
there pumping out 700 plus horses with them!

Vipers have aluminum heads. Dodge trucks are cast iron. Not quite the
same. Also use different cams - valves - exhaust and intake
manifolds.
Bolt patterns are the same.


Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:55:27 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 9"

Ethan: 8" and 9" both exit the housing from the front. Only way I
know to tell them apart is by the 2 lower nuts. Can't get a 3/8 drive
socket on the 9", but can on the 8".

>>Are there any identifing marks i can use to identify my (9?)
rearend?

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:56:02 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Those emissions again, any tips?

sounds basically stock enough to pass. is there a visual inspection or
just a sniffer?
the aftermarket cats work well i am told, but i never had one. maybe get
it sniffed before you get tested so you know what you got.
those o2 sensors can tell you if the fuel/air ratio is good, but it doesn't
measure the NOx, aldahydes, HC, CO, or what ever they test for in your
state.

sleddog

- ----------
From: John F. Bauer III[SMTP:bauerjf ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Monday, January 26, 1998 10:10 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Those emissions again, any tips?

Group:

Well, the State of Ohio has changed its EPA vehicle emission status yet
again. Previous to 1998, they had a special license plate, called the
Collector Plate, that could be purchased if you met the simple criteria:

- - vehicle worth more than $100.
- - proof of owning a second vehicle for daily driving.

Thus, for an additional $60 fee (gotta love it) + cost of regular plates,
an OH person could get Collector Plates which did not require an EPA test.

So, as Ohioans found this out, it was amazing how many late model, rusted
out clunkers became collector cars just to skip out on the EPA testing.
So, along comes Ohio Revised Code section 4501.01. It says, that if your
vehicle isn't listed in the National Automobile Dealers Association
Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Car Appraisal Guide, you lose and
have to get regular EPA checks. If you are on the list, you can have
collectors plates, but you still have to have EPA checks (no mention of
reduced standards or anything). And for my case, a 1977 Ford 4WD E100 Van
just isn't on the list.

So the question is, do I even have a chance with 460 bored .030" over (I
believe regular cam, but what if the previous owner put something beefy
in?), Holley 4160, Durapark II ignition, Edelbrock performer intake, stock
exhaust manifold, single outlet exhaust without catalytic converter of even
passing the idle test? I have been very successful in the past of getting
testing approval to bypass highway test on other stock vehicles.

Besides the obvious, check timing, verify idle mixture and tune for best
emissions would something like installing one of those universal catalytic
converters (which by the way, 460 did not come with catalytic converter
till something like 1986) increase chances? Has anyone used those home O2
sensor type checkers with much success?

I am hoping others have run into this situation previously and might have
some tips on how to be compliant. Also, might want to check your state to
make sure they aren't pulling something like this. I assume a 1977 F250
4WD is probably also not on the magic list of classic cars. Don't get me
wrong, I want to be environmentally friendly, I only drove this van 350
miles all of 1997.

John








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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:39:24 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: 351M/400 crank swap

>From: Tyler Wilkins
>Subject: Re: 351M Pinging and Dieseling
>snip
>Ok, now you got me involved in this thread, I've heard plenty
>on FE crank/piston swaps.
>I guees I never thought about my 351M, Does the 400 crank
>bolt right in? My 351M is just about to be reassembled, so
>now maybe I'll go hunting for a 400 crank first. What kind of
>improvements would this yeild? Any other suggestions
>before I do my re-assembly?
Yo Tyler:

The only difference between a 351M and a 400 is the crank and pistons. The
400 crank has the same main and rod bearing diameters and 0.50" longer
stroke. To accommodate the longer stroke, the 400 piston has approx. 0.30"
shorter compression height (pin CL to piston top). You cannot use the 351M
pistons w/ a 400 crank. Rods are the same.

All the 351C pistons are compatible w/ the 400 crank because they share a
similar compression height to the 400 pistons. Using 351C pistons will
give you many different options to get the compression ratio up to a better
level than the factory 8.0:1 for the 351M (or 8.2:1 for the 400).

All this is very worthwhile, as getting up the compression ratio is one of
the easiest ways to make a serious improvement in that engine's power
output. If your engine's disassembled, now is the time to do it!

On the subject of transmissions, the 351M/400 block uses the same bell
housing bolt pattern as the 429/460 big block. You should be able to swap
in any transmission that was originally bolted to a 460 in a truck. BTW:
'80s 4-speeds are the same as '70s 4-speeds, they are either the Warner T18
or New Process 435. The only newer manual transmission bolted to a 460 was
the ZF HD 5-speed, which gives both a compound low (granny) 1st gear and an
overdrive 5th gear.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:08:57 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Rear Seals

Someone called them "Speedysleeves" or something like that. The only
problem that I have heard about them is that you have to fill or remove
some of the ridges where the seal was. If the ridges are too deep the
new sleeve will conform to the ridges and there you are again.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:09:20 -0700 (MST)
From: Charlie Mear
Subject: Re: rear bearings

....


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