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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 03:50:38 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #4
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, January 5 1998 Volume 02 : Number 004



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #3 [bradyiii shore.intercom.net]
Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #2 [bradyiii shore.intercom.net]
Re: F-100 Milestone [BULL229 ]
Re: Duraspark transplant [BULL229 ]
Linf Kit [Jason ]
6V Automatic Bat'ry Charger? [JRFiero ]
Re: Lift Kit [SAR HOG ]
Fuel tank, tranny rebuild [mark heims ]
Re: Lift Kit [Don Grossman ]
Re: Fuel tank, tranny rebuild ["J. Oxley" ]
Re: Duraspark transplant [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re:66 F100 Trans Swap [Tred123 ]
Re: Fuel tank, tranny rebuild [marko ]
Need help on my 73 F250 [Lee Craner ]
Re: Need help on my 73 F250 [Kurt Albershardt ]

=======================================================================

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Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 09:41:58 +0000
From: bradyiii shore.intercom.net
Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #3

> Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 03:50:28 -0700 (MST)
> From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
> To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
> Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #3
> Reply-to: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net

> Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 12:53:52 -0800
> From: Randy Collins
> Subject: Power Steering Cooler
>
> List members,
>
> I would like to buy one of the old Ford power steering coolers. I believe
> that these were used on late 60's early 70's 429 equipped cars. Anyone
> have one or know where I could get one of these?
>
> Later,
>
> Randy Collins
> Boise, Idaho
> rcollins micron.net
>
Randy,
I have one from 360 equipped '71 F-100. I removed it because it
looked unessesary. Let me know if you are interested in mine.

Jim Brady

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 09:41:58 +0000
From: bradyiii shore.intercom.net
Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #2

> Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 03:50:33 -0700 (MST)
> From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
> To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
> Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #2
> Reply-to: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net

> Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 13:21:20 -0600
> From: "kingw"
> Subject: Re: Fuel Economy
>
> Jim,

> Finally, you might consider building a front spoiler for your truck if you
> do a fair
> amount of highway driving (*flame proof suit now on*). I had seen an old
> Car
> and Driver series from the early 1970s where they only put front spoilers
> onto
> a bunch of cars (I recall a Pinto and 240z) and got substantial mileage
> improvements.
> You could make one yourself out of sheet metal (I wouldn't buy one. They
> may look nicer, but they won't work as well as one you made yourself. The
> idea behind them
> is very simple) and (provided you made it right) should see some
> improvement.
> Just an idea.
>
> Bill
>
>Bill,
This sounds interesting. I want to add fog lamps so a spoiler could
be an integral part of my plan. What sort of angles come into play
here? Let me know any details that might help.

Jim Brady

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 12:23:32 EST
From: BULL229
Subject: Re: F-100 Milestone

Just wanted to add a story of Ford longevity. My father drove a 68 F-100 4WD
shortbed up until 1984. This truck traveled ove 400,000 miles before it
succumbed to a fire in our garage. It had a 68 390 4V in it since 72,
replacing the anemic 360, and the motor had been rebuilt once after that.

Keep in mind this was no regular daily driver, it was a work truck for a heavy
equipment mechanic and plowed every Berkshire winter. He once used the truck
to pull a tractor-trailer from PA, only to get stopped by a trooper, telling
him it was WAY out of legality

Our belief was that this truck refused to die, and I am sure, even today it
would be running if not for a catastrophic fire that took the truck as well as
12 other cars, tools, and treasures. Thought you may like this story! - Ross

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 12:32:20 EST
From: BULL229
Subject: Re: Duraspark transplant

Changing an FE to Duraspark is an easy swap, best done with a factory wiring
harness. Its can be done in a few hours with little brainpower (good thing for
all of us)

I have done this 3 or 4 times, including my own truck, a 70 F-100 4wd
shortbed. The harness you need to make it easiest is a 76 360 truck, the
wiring harness is fromt he distributor to the box stays intact, you just need
to mount the ign box on the fender just like the 76's and plug it in, and the
coil harness will be in the proper place (use the 76 push on coil). That will
leave two remaining wires on the ign box, you will see, the two are a seperate
harness coming out of the box, just put 12v to these two wires, make sure the
12V you use is switched off when the key is off, then BOOM, you have spark!

One last point, the ign box MUST be grounded, be sure to clean the back with a
little sandpaper, and scrape a little paint off the fender where it mounts. I
have saved many a customer who thought they had a bad box, just by cleaning
the mounting to make a good ground. Good luck to all, and talk to you soon -
Ross

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 17:13:35
From: Jason
Subject: Linf Kit

Hi Guys, I have a 1994 F150. 4X4. I want to a a 2 inch lifk kit to it. What
is the way to do this? And about how much? Thanks!

- -Jason
disalvo tco.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 18:53:11 EST
From: JRFiero
Subject: 6V Automatic Bat'ry Charger?

I''ve been looking in vain for an automatic battery charger with 6V
capabilities. I've found several chargers labeled 'automatic' that have
12V/6V, but if you look close, the 6V is only manual. I've also found 6V
'maintenance' chargers (the little baby ones), but they're manual also. The
12V maintenance chargers all seem to be automatic these days.
By 'automatic' I mean the charger can sense the state of battery charge, and
taper down to nothing when the battery gets to full charge, the kick in for a
little bit every now and then if the vehicle is idle for a while.
Anybody know of one? I don't care if it has the now-common high amp start
feature.
Griot's Garage sells one which the catalog claims does all this, but it's
$99.95. To quote: "Sophisticated circuitry checks whether your battery is 6
or 12 volt, if the polarity (connection) is correct, then allows for a delayed
start so no sparking across the leads can occur! Depending on the condition
of the battery and how much charge it can accept, the computer varies the rate
between 2 and 10 amps to provide maximum charge. To equalize charge on all of
the cells, it provides a taper charge at the end. Fully automatic shut-off
and restart keeps your battery at its maximum charge for extended periods of
time."
That's what I want, but Griot's usually is more expensive than anywhere
else you can find equivalent stuff. Cool catalog, tho, with drool tools, so
if you don't have one, they're at 1-800-345-5789. Don't know about a web
site.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 19:04:31 EST
From: SAR HOG
Subject: Re: Lift Kit

In a message dated 98-01-04 17:14:28 EST, you write:


is the way to do this? And about how much? Thanks!

-Jason
disalvo tco.com >>

The most inexpensive way to do it would be to use a body lift. They lift the
cab and bed off of the frame, but they require a lot of labor for things like
the steering column, fuel filler neck, radiator shroud, brake lines, tranny
linkage, etc. Suspension lifts cost more, and they require a fair amount of
labor on non-solid axle/leaf spring setups such as yours, but you will get a
better riding, more capable truck overall and you'll be glad you did in the
long run. I've done both, and I was not very impressed with the body lift.
Just research both before you start.

John Z
67 F-100 460/C-6

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 17:02:29 -0700
From: mark heims
Subject: Fuel tank, tranny rebuild

Hi all,
I've been thinking of putting a bigger fuel tank on my 78 shortbed 4x4.
Will a 33 gal bronco tank work, there fairly cheap but aren't as wide or
long. My 35" spare won't fit under the truck so the depth isn't a
problem. Can I get some bronco mounting straps and put one under there
easily or are the filler holes in different locations?

I'm also looking for a good source of info for rebuilding my New Process
435 4 speed. The third gear syncros are going, it grinds going in to
gear and pops out while I'm accelerating. A friend of mine suggested
getting a greaseable throwout bearing, drilling a hole in the
bellhouseing and running a hose to a 1/4 28 barb fitting or a 1/4 28 to
1/8 female pipe thread fitting. This way the throwout bearing can be
easily greased, what do you think?

Mark
1978 F150 4x4 "The Great Pumpkin"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 19:05:45 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Lift Kit

SAR HOG wrote:
>
> In a message dated 98-01-04 17:14:28 EST, you write:
>
>
> is the way to do this? And about how much? Thanks!
>
> -Jason
> disalvo tco.com >>
>
> The most inexpensive way to do it would be to use a body lift. They lift the
> cab and bed off of the frame, but they require a lot of labor for things like
> the steering column, fuel filler neck, radiator shroud, brake lines, tranny
> linkage, etc. Suspension lifts cost more, and they require a fair amount of
> labor on non-solid axle/leaf spring setups such as yours, but you will get a
> better riding, more capable truck overall and you'll be glad you did in the
> long run. I've done both, and I was not very impressed with the body lift.
> Just research both before you start.
>
> John Z
> 67 F-100 460/C-6

Maybe all you need is a set of leveling coils for the front. A two inch
lift would be a little more expensive then body job but would be faster
than having to adjust all the previously mentioned items above.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 22:17:39 -0500
From: "J. Oxley"
Subject: Re: Fuel tank, tranny rebuild

> I'm also looking for a good source of info for rebuilding my New Process
> 435 4 speed. The third gear syncros are going, it grinds going in to
> gear and pops out while I'm accelerating.

Chiltons has some prety good info if you don't have the factory
manuals. It was a pretty straight forward rebuild as it was the first
manual transmission ever rebuilt.

>A friend of mine suggested
> getting a greaseable throwout bearing, drilling a hole in the
> bellhouseing and running a hose to a 1/4 28 barb fitting or a 1/4 28 >to 1/8 female pipe thread fitting. This way the throwout bearing can be
> easily greased, what do you think?
>

I would like to hear more on this. My throwout bearing is going
after only about 5000 miles, but almost all my milage is towing heavy
loads or serious deep water wheelin. It took me 5 years to acumulate
this milage, so I'm not that upset about it. I would like to be able to
grease it though. Where can I get a greasable throwout bearing??

OX


> Mark
> 1978 F150 4x4 "The Great Pumpkin"
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 20:14:38 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Duraspark transplant

BULL229 wrote:
Snip
> That will
> leave two remaining wires on the ign box, you will see, the two are a seperate
> harness coming out of the box, just put 12v to these two wires, make
Snip

Although this will work the white wire should be hooked to a 12 V source
when the ignition key is in the start position only. It is there to
allow an amount of retard while cranking and if it is on all of the time
there may be problems. See the wiring diagram at the site below:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/duraspark.html


It is a world of knowledge. Also the Duraspark I and Duraspark II use
different connectors on the 4 prong connector.

According to the tech people at Auto-Tune ( BWD Automotive Corp. ) there
is a Control module # PT 289 ( white insulator ) that provides 16 degs
of cranking retard vs. the 2-3 degs that the blue insulator # PT 313
offers. I don't know if it is a direct ( blue ) Duraspark II replacement
but the tech said it was and that it was intended for the 460 eng. ( I
can't see how it would hurt to use it on the other engines )

Disclaimer: I have not used the White #PT289 and can not be held
responsible if it doesn't work or causes harm. I have only used the blue
#PT313. I would have bought the #PT289 if I had known about it before I
bought the Blue one.

Good Luck

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 23:33:46 EST
From: Tred123
Subject: Re:66 F100 Trans Swap

Hello & Happy New Year To All

My 66' Short Bed has original Manual 3 speed column shift. I would like
to install a C6 behind the 352FE. Can I use/ modify the current transmission
cross member/support or should I find a F100 that came with auto trans and use
that crossmember? Are they the same???
Other than after market does anybody know what tilt column will swap in
easily? ie model / year.
Any help would be appreciated,

sincerely,

Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 22:33:25 -0800
From: marko
Subject: Re: Fuel tank, tranny rebuild

At 10:17 PM 1/4/98 -0500, you wrote:
>> I'm also looking for a good source of info for rebuilding my New Process
>> 435 4 speed. The third gear syncros are going, it grinds going in to
>> gear and pops out while I'm accelerating.
>
> Chiltons has some prety good info if you don't have the factory
>manuals. It was a pretty straight forward rebuild as it was the first
>manual transmission ever rebuilt.
>
>>A friend of mine suggested
>> getting a greaseable throwout bearing, drilling a hole in the
>> bellhouseing and running a hose to a 1/4 28 barb fitting or a 1/4 28 >to
1/8 female pipe thread fitting. This way the throwout bearing can be
>> easily greased, what do you think?
>>
>
> I would like to hear more on this. My throwout bearing is going
>after only about 5000 miles, but almost all my milage is towing heavy
>loads or serious deep water wheelin. It took me 5 years to acumulate
>this milage, so I'm not that upset about it. I would like to be able to
>grease it though. Where can I get a greasable throwout bearing??
>
> OX
>
When I worked excavating we had a number of dump trucks, all with greasable
throw bearings. Not that an Eaton 15 speed is anything like an NP 435, but
it made me think: An NP435 is more than likely also a reasonably standard
trans for some F700's of the early 70's vintage.

Looking in my Chilton Truck Repair manual from 1974, I note there's nothing
really indicating the existence of a greasable throw bearing except when the
14" single-plate clutch is mentioned. The bearing used with that one is
greasable.

As for rebuilding the 435, It doesn't look impossible. I had mine done by a
shop but have the how-to instructions here. I could photocopy and mail to
you if you're interested.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 00:44:51 EST
From: Lee Craner
Subject: Need help on my 73 F250

I've got a 390 in my '73 w/25,000 miles on the engine (complete rebuild by
prior owner). The other night, I blew the top radiator hose (it literally
exploded). After replacing it, the engine had no power and quickly
overheated.

A compression check showed 30 lbs on #2 cylinder and 155 lbs on #3. All the
rest were between 120# and 130#.

Both pushrods on #3 were severly bent, accounting for the higher than normal
compression. The valves on #3 looked ok, as did the top of the piston. There
was no obvious evidence that the head gasket at blown at #2.

The head is currently at the machine shop being checked out. Before pulling
the head I suspected I blew the head gasket at #2. Finding both #3 rods bent
really surprised me. Any ideas how I can bend both rods and how this would
relate to overheating?\

Lee

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 00:01:21 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: Need help on my 73 F250

At 12:44 AM 1/5/98 EST, Lee Craner wrote:
>The head is currently at the machine shop being checked out. Before pulling
>the head I suspected I blew the head gasket at #2. Finding both #3 rods bent
>really surprised me. Any ideas how I can bend both rods and how this would
>relate to overheating?


Engine overheats & blows head gasket (or head gasket develops hairline
crack and causes overheating which causes serious gasket problem)....


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