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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 01:33:43 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #28
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, January 19 1998 Volume 02 : Number 028



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: C6 ["Deacon" ]
Chemistry, rust, and vinegar ... [Serian ]
Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #27 [garchap webtv.net (Gary Chapman)]
Re: Not so High End Audio ["Dale and Donna Carmine"
restoration part 1 of ? [marko ]
Re: High End Audio [marko ]
Re: restoration part 1 of ? ["Deacon" ]
ADMIN: Web chat reminder [Ken Payne ]
Re: FMX/C5 ?? [A64F100 ]
Re: restoration part 1 of ? [marko ]
Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar? [sdelanty sonic.net]
F100 Nationals Booth [Ken Payne ]
Re: Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar? ["Jason K. Schechner" ]
Re: 360/390 difference AND headers for 360/390 [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar? ["Deacon" ]
Stereo Review [Jim Craig ]
Re: Rear Brakes [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: FMX/C5 ?? [reedg ns2.cetlink.net]
Re: High End Audio [GMPACHECO ]
Re: High End Audio [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: C6 [Chekerdpst ]
Re: High End Audio [Chekerdpst ]
Re: C6 [danadeb pacbell.net]
360 and 390 ID [Doug Neely ]
Re: High End Audio ["Deacon" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 06:31:17 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: C6

>>>The Lincoln trans has CV joints instead of regular universal joints
>like the truck. If they are the same it just makes the swap that much
>easier.


>From Azie
>Don: (1) You must mean the driveshaft has a double U-joint at the yoke
>going into the transmission.

OK, I'm really going to stick my neck out here. Isn't that what a CV
joint is. I know CV joints on a front wheel drive car are not double U-joint
but I thought they also called double U-joint, Constant Velocity joints.
Isn't the term CV referring to maintaining a low angle at the yoke. The
reason our trucks don't have double U-joints is because the double driveline
with a carrier bearing performs the same function. 20 years ago I had a '70
Bronco with double U-joints that went bad. I had it replaced with a single
U-joint because they wanted too much money for a double. At that time the
driveline shop referred to it as a Constant Velocity joint. They also warned
me not to lift my Bronco with the single U-joint because it would put the
driveline at to much of an angle at the yoke.
I really don't know if the term CV is correct for a double U-joint or if
it only refers to the ball and cup type CV joints, but that's what I've
always referred to it as.
Sorry, this is really off the subject and Ford trucks but what do you do
at Chrysler Azie. If you don't mind me asking.
Later!


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 00:37:45 -0500
From: Serian
Subject: Chemistry, rust, and vinegar ...

> If I recall, there are a few of you out there who know a little chemistry.
> What is it that distilled white vinegar does to metal pieces? And what is
>distilled white vinegar, anyway? Label says 'diluted with water to 5%
>acidity.'

Vinegar is a solution of a weak organic acid - acetic acid to be precise.
Since it
has a low level of ionization (pH closer to 7 than say, hydrochloric) in
solution,
it is likely that even if you soak a piece of metal in it for weeks, no
noticeable
damage will occur to the metal (unless it is highly reactive metal such as,
say,
potassium ...). It takes off rust readily however, because rust is an
oxide, and in
reaction with an acid, non-fused metal oxides react like hydroxides (bases).
metal oxide + acid ==> metal salt + water

or for rust + vinegar :

Fe2O3 + 6HC2H3O2 ==> 2Fe(C2H3O2)3 + 3H2O

but iron itself tends to be relatively unreactive with weak acids, so the
part of
the rusty metal that isnt rust will still be ok.

Take care though, because the WATER catalyzes oxidation of iron rather quickly
(notice that iron that is kept very dry takes a *long* time to rust ?)
Rust is actually a hydrate of iron II oxide (Fe2O3 * 3H2O)
so you will want to get it out of the mixture of 5% acetic acid, 95% water
and dried off as soon as the rust is dissolved away to your satisfaction.

You can make the rust removal faster if you use 37% hydrochloric acid, (you
can get this at the hardware store as "muriatic acid") but come back to
your jar in an
hour or less, wash the derusted part with baking soda solution, and dry it
thoroughly.
Iron is lower in the electrochemical series than hydrogen, so it will
resist corrosion
by HCl, but by no means is it invulnerable ... especially when there is
water in the
solution to help catalyze the Fe ==> Fe2O3 reaction as well ....


== Serian
'76 F250 4x2
'79 Bronco 4x4
'83 F150 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 10:36:23 -0600
From: garchap webtv.net (Gary Chapman)
Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #27

HELP! I have a 91 302 engine complete except for balancer pulleys
being an externally balanced engine I have to use the 50 ounce
counterweight balancer here is my problem Ihave pulleys and brackets for
the old 3 bolt dampner Doe anyone make a modified dampner or pulley so
that I can retain my early model parts any help would be appreciated

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 11:26:50 -0600
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Re: Not so High End Audio

>Hello Everyone
>I recently received a radio out of a friend brand new Probe, and i would
like
>to install it in my 75 F- 250. But there is a major wiring proble it was a
7
>wire plug that goes in the radio ( along but excluding the 8 wire s for the
>speakers ) and the truck has a 2 wire setup.

Ethan,
I would go to a car audio shop and get an install kit for the ford probe.
There are two kits, one with the brackets and trim and one with the wiring
harness. You need the one with the wiring harness. It'll have a connector
that will mate with the one on the probe radio and all of the wires will be
marked for you. I recently put a CD player in my wife's olds and paid $15
for the kit at Best Buy. Sure it'll cost $15 but you end up with a
professional looking installation with an OEM style connector. Worth the
cost IMO.

later,
Dale Carmine
'79 F-150 351M
York, Nebraska

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 13:39:03 -0800
From: marko
Subject: restoration part 1 of ?

Hey everyone.

I'm gonna be doing this for the next few weeks, posting a kind of day-by-day
(actually weekend-by-weekend) chronology of what's going on with the
restoration/combination of my 67 mercury m100 and my 71 ford f250 4x4.

The plan:

Dip and strip the mercury body, paint it wimbledon white, and put it on the
restored 71 f250 running gear. Motion to be provided by blueprint-rebuilt
410 mercury.

So far:

Got the mercury v8, ripped it out of old '66 love wagon (and was there room
for a lot of love in that car! Boy was it huge! Unfortunately the only
reason the windows had been fogged in the last decade anyway, it appeared
was cause the roof was so rusty it leaked all the rain inside) (back to my
story) dropped it at the builders where it sits with fixed heads and a
prepped block and crank, waiting for a flywheel and clutch, and cam
selection. Should be built at the end of January.

Found a shop and a guy who lives on the farm where the shop is to help with
the rebuild. Actually at this point I should introduce the cast of characters:

Introduction:

Since I'm gonna be keeping this record for myself, and I thought some of you
might appreciate it, I'll make this a bit of a literary work.

The Actors:

me: Marko, 30-year-old-going-on-21 securities lawyer with little ambition
for the indoors. Originally bought 4x4 to go whitewater kayaking a lot.
Former resident of the sub-Arctic (i.e. Edmonton Alberta). Originally from
Farming Town of Two Hills, Alberta where everyone spoke Ukrainian and seemed
to have a Ford Truck in their driveway. Born in 1967. I'm attached to
Fordtrucks cause, when I was a little tyke, I'd go fishing and poking around
on farms and such with an old guy who was retired, and was like my surrogate
grandfather, who happened to drive one of these things (a '71 I think).

Neil: 33-y.o. body guy who just set up his own shop in Langley BC. Former
1-year employee of Cobra Automotive, THE custom autobody place in BC, which
does crazy concours restorations of Mustangs mostly, and other cars. Neil
went to the same high school as me, but a little earlier. Even remembers my
sister. I didn't know who he was until he was recommended to me by a friend
and Neil and I did a bit of history reviewing. Weird....

Randy: Owner of the farm where I'm doing my restoration. Former 15-year
employee of Cobra and all around motorhead. Has his own shop on his farm in
Langley. Friend of Neil's. Looks very similar to Ozzy Osbourne. Drives a
1967 Mercury pickup (also utterly weird).

Mark: Friend and co-worker of Randy's. More of a Garage Man's Companion
man, likes GOATs and Parisiennes and such. Thankfully, not a Camaro or
Fire-Chicken man. Appreciates Fords though. Smokes a lot, talks a lot,
reminds me of the guy with the sunglasses on King of the Hill. Has
excellent tool set.

Act I - Disassembly.

Well, we all looked at the Mercury and thought, "what a nice clean truck".
Yesterday we all pushed it into the shop and i got to work. Neil is still
working on a 65 Mercury Econoline (very stylish) out on the farm so he spent
the day doing that. I wasn't yet sure what Randy and Mark thought of me
(you never know with strangers, some are wankers) but we wheeled the Merc
into the shop and away I went. I spent the morning disassembling the front
clip and this truck is CLEAN. The front valence has speckles of rust on the
inside. The front fenders are spotless and the insides are as straight as
the outside.

Once I got the grill out Randy came by to see how I was doing and his
comment was "wow, he even brings his own tools!". Although I managed to get
an air ratchet and impact gun off Randy and from then on life went quite a
bit faster.

I de-chromed the fenders, which chrome is held on by those clips with the
nuts on the back and the fenderwell chrome which is held on with screws.

The hood came off easily. The lettering on the hood just pries out.
There's only one way to do this, VERY CAREFULLY. Once you get the letters
out, you have to pry out the spring steel clips. They have two fingers on
their underside so you pry one side out, then the other.

By noon I had the whole front clip apart and dechromed. I then went to work
on the tailgate which came apart without problem. Randy, who is himself in
need of a good tailgate, looked at mine and got jealous. It is perfect,
comletely flawless. I got one door mostly apart before I realized the truck
would be parked outside again and that meant I would have to roll up the
windows.

Then I wrestled with the chrome on the box. The strips that go along the
kink strip in the box are held on with clips. You can pry the strip off,
then you should take a chisel and cut the rivets holding the plastic clips
on from the back. If you try and drill them out you will just melt the
plastic clip and ruin it.

This and various organizing took most of the day. My truck has a custom
checkerplate back bumper, which we thought was bolted on by four very
uncooperative bolts. Having got those out and jumped on the bumper we
realized it wasn't going anywhere. Mark poked around and concluded that
somebody had welded it on good. It took me the rest of the afternoon to try
to cut thru the welds with an air chisel (no such luck). Grinding them off
wouldn't work cause the welds penetrate too deep. Having given up on this
we decided the hot wrench was the way to go, but since it was evening we
packed it in.

[curtain]

As far as first days go, it was one of my better ones.

I'll keep you all posted on how it goes from here.


marko

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 13:43:19 -0800
From: marko
Subject: Re: High End Audio

In my 71 4x4 I have a pioneer CD player in the glove box with 20W per side,
and two Alpine 5.25" speakers in the doors. Sounds amazing. I had a
clarion player before and it was awful, after a year the thing fell apart.
The alpine speakers sound really good, giving great bass response. The
pioneer never skips, sounds excellent, and is easy to use. Only trouble is
reaching all the way over while on the highway to change discs!


marko in vancouver

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 13:37:01 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: restoration part 1 of ?

>As far as first days go, it was one of my better ones.
>
>I'll keep you all posted on how it goes from here.
>
>
>marko

Thank you for sharing this with us marko. I can't wait for act II!

I have a question

>restoration/combination of my 67 mercury m100 and my 71 ford f250 4x4.

What will it be. A '67 Merc or a '71 F250? What will it be registered as.
Hopefully '67 Merc M100.
Maybe you can add some filler waiting for the next act. Like what kind of
exhaust are you going to use, carb, sounds and wheels to name a few. So far
it sounds like a great project and it's getting done right.
Thanks again.

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 19:22:19 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Web chat reminder

Web chat in 40 minutes (8pm, EST) to celebrate our 1st anniversary.
See you there!

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 20:30:11 EST
From: A64F100
Subject: Re: FMX/C5 ??

>What the heck is a C5 ? I have seen the reference, seen the transmission,
but
>Im not quite sure where to classify it in the lineup.

>The C6 is the tough, heavy-duty trans. used on big V8's, some medium V8's,
>and
>even the 302 (I have a C6 for a 302/351W in my garage if anyone is
>interested ...
>this will bolt up to a I6-300, too ..)

>The FMX/CW is medium duty, but was discontinued; used mostly on the
>302/351W, and 351M/400 series


I have a '78 400 and it has a C5. I don't know why or how it's different, but
I've been told the C5 is basically a C4 with a bigger bell housing (I don't
know how accurate that is though....)


Later,
Scott Loechel

~KEEP IT FORD BLUE~

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 18:53:18 -0800
From: marko
Subject: Re: restoration part 1 of ?

>>restoration/combination of my 67 mercury m100 and my 71 ford f250 4x4.
>
>What will it be. A '67 Merc or a '71 F250? What will it be registered as.
>Hopefully '67 Merc M100.
>Maybe you can add some filler waiting for the next act. Like what kind of

Thanks for the kind words! BTW if it weren't for all the good advice from
the list I'm not sure I woulda attempted this project, now I'm jumping in
with both feet!

Anyway, here's some more info:

The M100 body which is perfect will go on my 250 chassis (dana 44f 60r,
np435, np205). I'm gonna go with the Centerforce II clutch I think and an
Autolite 4100. I plan on Stans Headers and an isky or clevite cam, with
durations and lifts to be decided (thanks Mark Williams, I'll take your
advice to the builder and see what we come up with). Tires will be Hoosier
265-75-16's, when my Marshal 235-85-16's wear out (which will all that power
I daresay will be rather fast!). As I said, the color will be Wimbledon
White, with Holly Green lettering on the back, and I'm thinking of doing
that on the two wide, flat parts of the hood (if you divide the hood
surfaces into fifths, with 3/5 being the raised middle rib, it would be 2/5
and 4/5) also Holly Green as an offset, tho I'm not sure about that yet.
The air cleaner will be the stock Mercury one with the "Mercury 410
Marauder" decal. And I'll have a "caution fan" one too of course. The
battery will be a Sears Die Hard (best battery for the money I have yet
found, bar none). The interior will feature the Holly Green original seat
from the mercury, but otherwise will be white with new black floor mat,
stock push-pull heater controls and tube radio, with my Pioneer cd player in
the glove box and Alpine 5.25's in the doors. I will convert to power drum
brakes as a Bendix booster is pretty cheap.

So far I have decided on/seen that I need the following parts, which I think
I'll get from Carpenter's cause they're cheaper than Obsolete's:

stickers (most important!!! :-) )
inner fender to fender seals
hood bumpers
cowl lacing kit
front/rear signal light gaskets
floor mat
stainless steel door glass runner kits
tailgate bumpers
sun visor tips (ha!)

Other stuff I can get locally. Thanks to someone for the tip about wrapping
the starter with header tape.

Okay, the last thing: Jamey Moss, I'm sorry I took so darn long but the
window cranks are finally in the mail.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4
67 mercury m100

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 18:57:28 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar?

> If I recall, there are a few of you out there who know a little chemistry.
> What is it that distilled white vinegar does to metal pieces? And what is
>distilled white vinegar, anyway? Label says 'diluted with water to 5%
>acidity.'

What's white vinegar? It's a sugary solution that's been fermented to
alcohol by yeast, then converted from alcohol to vinegar by the micro-organism
"acetobacter". Vinegar contains a lot of acetic acid. The resulting
solution is then distilled to remove impurities and produce a very strong
acetic acid/water solution.
It's then diluted to 5% acidity like the label says...
Distilled white vinegers mostly water and acetic acid.

The only Ford parts I would wanna soak in it are non-metallic ones.

> I have several thermostat housings in a can of vinegar right now, and it's
>bubbling away having a fine time. But what's happening? Will they just melt?

Yes, eventually.
The bubbles are mostly hydrogen and oxygan.

>Will it take the paint off, too (only flecks are left)?

I suppose when the metal under the paint disintegrates, the paint will
come off.

> My intent was to get
>the rust off, and I accomplished that using vinegar once before on an old pair
>of pliers I found buried in the backyard, but they came out all pockmarked.
>Probably the rust, but could it have been the vinegar?
> I've accelerated the process a little by having the coffee can (with vinegar
>and housings) sitting in a plastic tub which I keep refilling with hot water.
>Wonder what's happening to the coffee can?

Why, You've made a fine "coffee can" battery my good man!
You've got a zinc plated can for one electrode, the copper pellet in
the thermostat for another electrode, and a nice acetic acid solution
for the electrolyte! If You could measure it, the coffee can battery
is giving off a small amount of heat of it's own, consuming it's electrodes
as a trade-off in the process. Copper and zinc, copper and nickel, and a whole
large variety of dis-similar metals in an acid will consume themselves
away making electricity...

If You have a good voltmeter, and You solder a wire to the coffee can and
a wire to the copper pellet on the thermostat and suspend the thermo in the
vinegar so it doesn't touch the can, You can measure a small voltage. (-:

Cut an orange in half, and stick a penny and a nickel into it and You can
do the same thing. (citric acid)

I would avoid soaking my metallic Ford parts in vinegar, unless You are
certain there is only 1 kind of metal and are using a plastic
container.

Vinegar works good to clean glass and some plastics tho.

Happy motoring,

Steve

"The best index to people's character is
(a) how they treat people who can't do them any good, and
(b) how they treat people who can't fight back."
-- Abigail Van Buren

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 19:19:50 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: F100 Nationals Booth

Good News!

Peggy and I have been able to get a booth at the Pigeon Forge
F100 Nationals this May! We're organizing a group picnic and
we need to get an idea of how many people plan on being there.
Event information is on the web site. If you plan on being
at this show (which is the largest F-series show) let us know
so we can get a guesstimated head count for a picnic site.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 22:17:02 -0500 (EST)
From: "Jason K. Schechner"
Subject: Re: Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar?

On Sat, 17 Jan 1998 danadeb pacbell.net wrote:

> Ever hear of Pool acid!
>
> Very strong acid, but it will take the rust off and your skin too!
>
> BE CAREFUL!!!!!!!!!!!

"Pool acid" is called Muriatic acid, and that's just another name
for dilute Hydrochloric acid. Be *extremely* careful with this stuff -
it's one of the strongest acids available. (and I'm using "strong" in the
chemical sense) It's no Nitric acid or Sulfuric acid (or Hydrofluoric!),
but it's still nasty stuff.

- -Jason
79 Bronco (460 coming soon, C6, 33" BFG AT's) GRN GYNT - offroad monster
79 Bronco (400M, C6, 31" Wranglers) blue - BGHOSS
95 Mustang GT - LTLHOS - Eibachs, 3.55's, K&N, 13deg timing
84 Kawasaki GPz550 - TNYHOS - to make up for the Broncos' appetite

- -----
Jason K. Schechner - check out www.cauce.org and help ban spam-mail.
=The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has bounds=

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 19:55:19 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: 360/390 difference AND headers for 360/390

>Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:11:23 -0800
>From: shoman p3.net
>Subject: Re: 360/390 difference AND headers for 360/390
>
>Not sure if this was said..Can't you tell the differnce by
>pulling a valve cover and looking for 360 or 390 in the head???
>Or arent they marked like the small blocks???

No. 360's and 390's usually share the same heads.
The casting # can be found without pulling the covers, It's between
the center 2 spark plugs, but still gives no clue about 360 or 390...
I.D. is easiest by pulling the spark plugs and measuring the stroke.

Steve

"The best index to people's character is
(a) how they treat people who can't do them any good, and
(b) how they treat people who can't fight back."
-- Abigail Van Buren

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 20:34:06 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Calling Ford Chemists - Vinegar?

> Cut an orange in half, and stick a penny and a nickel into it and You can
> do the same thing. (citric acid)

My 11 year old son Nick says thank you Steve. We just tried it and it
worked. :) He needed a science project for school and now he has one. Of
course if he loses my multimeter I'm not going to be a happy camper. :)
Thanks, that was a fun little experiment to do with him. So what's next Mr.
Wizard? :)

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 00:00:34 -0600
From: Jim Craig
Subject: Stereo Review

I would like to thank all of you for your opinions on how to correct the
steering slop in my '77 Supercab. The solution incorporated all of your
ideas. The springs were replaced, which helped tremendously with steering
control in off-camber and bumpy situations. After I replaced the kingpins
and bushings, she no longer changes lanes when the brakes are applied. The
steering box...well, let's say that I am on my third in less than a year.
My first replacement had slop and leaked, so I cashed in on the lifetime
warranty. The second had slop and the tendency to veer off without any
indication at the wheel. When I returned this one, another guy with the
same box, had the same problem. The third box has no slop! She still
doesn't return to center all the way ,but it's better--I am sure it's the
box, but I am not in the mood to drop it again just yet. It also pulsates,
but I can live with that too. To this date, I have had the same problems
with all Federated Auto Parts. It took two weeks to lose the bearing in the
water pump, and the distributer spits oil from the seal. It's not that I
don't like working on my pride and joy, but it gets rather frustrating when
I have to do the same thing over and over. I have moved my account to Bumper
to Bumper, and have never had such problems with any of their parts.

- --As far as the stereos go, who wants to break the bank?! No, really Boston
Acoustics has a great set consisting of a 6 inch woofer, 4 inch midrange,
tweeter, and crossover. Vocals sound muffled so far down, at the bottom of
the door, so the woofer goes in the factory cut-out. The mid and tweeter go
closer to the top of the door, and all are set in MDF enclosures. The boxes
are not needed, but in order to point them at the exact direction I wanted,
they were necessary. I did not want to have to put my head on the steering
wheel to find the "sweet spot" exactly between the two speakers. The only
problem is the $600+ price tag!
In back, go for a Soundstream SPL10. They sound great for the
minimal amount of box space they require. For a head unit, I was fascinated
by Kenwood's MASK--the face revolves to reveal a blank panel than the truck
is shut off. I have never had a problem with the little gadget. Dynamat is
great.

- --Can anyone help me find a '78-'79 4X4 Supercab rolling chassis?--

Jimbo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 21:08:40 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Rear Brakes

Deacon wrote:
>

> With 90% of the work done can you tell a difference?
> Later!
>
Yes! BOTH rear brakes lock up now!!!!!!!
Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 22:57:05 +0000
From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net
Subject: Re: FMX/C5 ??

> >What the heck is a C5 ? I have seen the reference, seen the transmission,
> but
> >Im not quite sure where to classify it in the lineup.
>
> >The C6 is the tough, heavy-duty trans. used on big V8's, some medium V8's,
> >and
> >even the 302 (I have a C6 for a 302/351W in my garage if anyone is
> >interested ...
> >this will bolt up to a I6-300, too ..)
>
> >The FMX/CW is medium duty, but was discontinued; used mostly on the
> >302/351W, and 351M/400 series
>
>
> I have a '78 400 and it has a C5. I don't know why or how it's different, but
> I've been told the C5 is basically a C4 with a bigger bell housing (I don't
> know how accurate that is though....)
The C5 transmission began production in 1981 and superseded the C4 in
1982. The C5 is fundamentally a modernized version of the C4 with a
torque converter clutch to provide converter lockup during cruising.
The C5 stopped production in 1986 when it was replaced by the AOD.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 23:15:15 EST
From: GMPACHECO
Subject: Re: High End Audio

I had a Alpine put in my 72' they used a kit for a volvo and installed the kit
upside down... looks great also the speakers were mounted under my dash facing
downward, sound good..and it only takes 4 screws to remove the speakers..

Mike in Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 21:41:06 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: High End Audio

Deaconblu writes:
>information in the catalog is worth having.
> By the way, I don't work for anyone so there's no need to ask. :) And
>Steve Delanty is the expert not me. I'm sure as soon as his up to it he'll
>join in the conversation.
> I'm looking for a good full sound. I've been looking at stuff for like
>six months now and still don't have a plan. With out setting things up

Hey Deacon, don't incriminate me! I haven't explored the possibiliies
of good sound in the truck yet...

My truck has got a pair of 6x9's in the doors, a cheap $120 radio shack
FM/cassette, and a really nice clean 65w/channel amp.

The amp is mounted above the glove box. It fits good there.
The 6x9's are mounted with a big thick rubber gasket to seal to the door.
I put a pretty heavy layer of spray-on under coating on the door panel,
but it's not enough when You crank up the volume.
Next time I pull the door panels, I may stiffen them up with some plywood and
more undercoating.
Also, when the window is down, it buzzes at certain frequencies. Maybe new
window channel rubber would help..?

Lot's of good high end equioment is out there, but I ain't got it.
The real tough part in these trucks is speaker placement. The door panel
is the only real likely place, and the window mechanism really limits
what You can put in there, and where. Good luck...

Happy motoring,

Steve

"The best index to people's character is
(a) how they treat people who can't do them any good, and
(b) how they treat people who can't fight back."
-- Abigail Van Buren

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 00:20:05 EST
From: Chekerdpst
Subject: Re: C6

Single U-joint= single cardan
Double """""" = double cardan
Cv's are aka rzeppa joints (after their inventor)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 00:11:52 EST
From: Chekerdpst
Subject: Re: High End Audio

Thanks for the tip regarding sound improvement. I took the easy way out and
ran my thin speaker wires through small holes that I drilled. I'd be kidding
myself if I thought that I'll never have to mess with them again (due to
repeated opening and closing of the doors) but I used hot glue to seal the
holes around the wire. It keeps the wire from chafing through, and keeps the
H20 from getting in (I'm a clean freak with my vehicles, so frequent
washings).
I'm assuming that the foam/surrounds/baffles are available through J.C.
Whitney or a local store, but you know what happens when you assume! Where
did you find yours? have you used the Dynamat soundproofing material
throughout your truck?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 23:28:02 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: C6

A CV joint has a ball joint in the middle of a double "U" joint?????
And a plane double "U" joint does not????

I saw a CV ( or what I thought was a CV joint) on the front drive shaft of a
chevy truck. It had 2 "U" joints and a ball and socket in the middle.

Just trying to understand!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 23:30:10 -0800
From: Doug Neely
Subject: 360 and 390 ID

Check the flange at the back of the crank , the 360 has a half moon
notch in it ,the
390 has a straight cut notch in it . This is probably the method someone
heard of at
the wreckers , I've used it on a few engines and haven't been
disappointed yet.
Maybe Marko could check his 360 if it's out of the truck.


Cheers ,

Doug

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 00:33:28 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: High End Audio

> I'm assuming that the foam/surrounds/baffles are available through
J.C.
>Whitney or a local store, but you know what happens when you assume! Where
>did you find yours? have you used the Dynamat soundproofing material
>throughout your truck?

I found the products in the Crutchfield catalog. I'm just now starting
on my F350 and I trying to do right. My F100 I used undercoat for sound
proofing like Steve did. One tip in spraying undercoat. Use a mask. :) I
thought I was going to die. I was out side so I figured I'd be OK. Well I
didn't die but I made those who love me wish I would. Scared the crap out of
me.
Dynamat runs about $20 for 4.5 sq.ft. I wonder how many sq. ft. it will....


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