fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #24

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fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, January 15 1998 Volume 02 : Number 024

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 360/390 ?? [Dennis Pearson ]
Ex manifolds [am14

chrysler.com]
Tailshaft housing [am14

chrysler.com]
RE: Header Wrap ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Tailshaft housing [am14

chrysler.com]
Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL [Adam Clever ]
Re: Tailshaft housing ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Header Wrap [SuperMagot ]
RE: Header Wrap ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL ["Deacon" ]
Re: Header Wrap [John Pajak ]
Re: Header Wrap [Keith Srb ]
RE: Header Wrap [Kenneth Payne ]
Re: Header Wrap [Gardner ]
Tri-Y [John Pajak ]
Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL [Gardner ]
Re: 360/390 ?? [dchez

juno.com]
Re: 360/390 ?? [Tyler Wilkins ]
Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Header Wrap ["Deacon" ]
Recycle [John Pajak ]
Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL [John Pajak ]
Re: Header Wrap [John MacNamara ]
Re: 360/390 ?? [marko

helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL [marko

helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Recycle ["Deacon" ]
RE: Synthetic Oils [Sleddog ]
Re: Tailshaft housing [danadeb

pacbell.net]
Re: Header Wrap [Chekerdpst ]
Recycle [dave.williams

chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)]
ADMIN: Java chat is alive! [Ken Payne ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 08:08:15 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL

> From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
> Subject: Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:35:30 -0600

> I guess I must of missed some posts or a digest because I don't
> remember any discussion about the Pennzoil synthetic. I'm just
> asking what you know because I did my first oil change with Pennzoil
> Performax this past weekend. The bottle says it is 100% synthetic.
> I bought it because it is $1/qt. cheaper at the local walmart than
> the Mobil 1. comments???????

Cool! I'll have to look into that. The PZL has done allright for me
so far but I was disappointed to discover I had been duped :-( It's
really embarrassing to get up on your soap box only to discover
you've been telling lies :-( Unintentionally of course, but I could
have done more research..................

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 06:23:42 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: 360/390 ??

Thanks for your message at 11:22 PM 1/14/98 EST, ECampb5214. Your message was:
>Hello Everyone
>
> I'm in minnesota, Yesterday it was 16 degrees below zero. I went to start
>my truck up in the morning, and well the damn thing started right up! All
>that day i seen dozens of cars with there hoods up, that needed a jump. 6"
>inches of snow the mother' still started.
>
> It's for sale write to me if your intrested.

Just can't stand prosperity, uh?

>76' F-250 Ranger XLT 360ci. C6 8 ft bed dual gas tanks A/C REcent Black w/
>Battleship gray paint job Plus much more.
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79

listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 10:19:13 -0500
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: Ex manifolds

Greg: If you can disconnect the exhaust pipe and leave the manifolds
on at least until you get the heads out where you can get to the
manifold bolts it will be worth the little extra work in my opinion.
Those bolts usually break ( at least one on either side, and its always
the one under the A/C unit or the brake booster).

>>thought about trying to just disconnect the head pipe, and leaving
the manifolds on. Especially if the valves turn out OK, it would seem
to be a bonus to not have to pull those scary rusted bolts off the
exhaust manifold!

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:22:49 -0500
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: Tailshaft housing

I don't understand this. I thought all C-6's had the same tailshaft
extension housing as long as they were for 2wd (cars and/or truck). I
know 4X4's us a different one, but ...!!!???? They also require a
different output shaft. Don't they????

>I understand from the e-mail that Jim Riley sent that I can use the
tailshaft from the C-6 that's in the truck now on the C-6 out of the
Lincoln and everything should bolt up.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:36:12 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Header Wrap

> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:31:04 -0500
> From: Ken Payne
> Subject: RE: Header Wrap

> It costs about $10 per roll, each roll is good for about one long
> pipe so it'll run about $80. I use in on my gas line - it
> immediately got rid of vapor lock problems the truck was having.

Is that the fiberglass 1" stuff? I think I paid closer to $30 for a
roll and it took 3 rolls for my full length headers. $17 for the
retainers and about $6 for the black hi-temp paint as I recall :-)

Don't forget the doctor fees when you slice yourself on the
retainers............

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:20:55 -0500
From: am14

chrysler.com
> Subject: Tailshaft housing
> Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:20:55 -0500

> >I understand from the e-mail that Jim Riley sent that I can use the
> tailshaft from the C-6 that's in the truck now on the C-6 out of
> the Lincoln and everything should bolt up.

You shouldn't have to do anything but bolt it in. What's all this
stuff about tail shafts? The car and truck use the same one AFAIK
except for those which have a transfer case attached which have a
short tail shaft and housing with adapter.

The one distinction is whether it has a slip yoke at the tranny or
not and these may even be interchangeable, not sure, just take the
bolt on yoke off and slide the slip yoke on and visa vera but not
sure about that.

The tailshafts are certainly interchangeable but you may need the
housing as well as the seals may be differnt so swap them together as
a set in either case :-)

BTW, the tranny has to be disassembled to swap the output shafts and
will require a white room (as in operating room sanitary) to prevent
dirt from causing you many, many headaches and subsequent
re-installations of the tranny you "THOUGHT" you had back together
right :-)

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:03:47 EST
From: SuperMagot
Subject: Re: Header Wrap

In a message dated 98-01-14 23:04:45 EST, you write:

header wrap. i do not know which brand. >>

I must have missed the original discussionon header wraps, but I have heard
that
using it on headers for street vehicles can cause problems.

Supposedly (im not a metallurgist so I dont know) the headers retain too much
heat, and the metal crystalizes and becomes very brittle over time. In other
words, the normal heat up and expansion cycle is increased significantly
becuase the heat is retained by the header wrap. This will shorten header
life.

It sounds logical, but I dont know.

FYI

- - Mike

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:05:24 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Header Wrap

> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:31:04 -0500
> From: Ken Payne
> Subject: RE: Header Wrap

> It costs about $10 per roll, each roll is good for about one long
> pipe so it'll run about $80. I use in on my gas line - it
> immediately got rid of vapor lock problems the truck was having.

Is that the fiberglass 1" stuff? I think I paid closer to $30 for a
roll and it took 3 rolls for my full length headers. $17 for the
retainers and about $6 for the black hi-temp paint as I recall :-)

Don't forget the doctor fees when you slice yourself on the
retainers............

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:09:35 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL

>> From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
>> Subject: Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL
>> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:35:30 -0600
>
>> I guess I must of missed some posts or a digest because I don't
>> remember any discussion about the Pennzoil synthetic. I'm just
>> asking what you know because I did my first oil change with Pennzoil
>> Performax this past weekend. The bottle says it is 100% synthetic.
>> I bought it because it is $1/qt. cheaper at the local walmart than
>> the Mobil 1. comments???????
>
>Cool! I'll have to look into that. The PZL has done allright for me
>so far but I was disappointed to discover I had been duped :-( It's
>really embarrassing to get up on your soap box only to discover
>you've been telling lies :-( Unintentionally of course, but I could
>have done more research..................
>
>Where's Murphy when
>you really need him??
>
>-- Gary --

Come on Gary, don't be so hard on yourself. That's my job! :) I'm going
to try it in my F350. I would also like to look into synthetic trans fluid
and rearend lube. Besides from what I've seen PZL states 100% synthetic
(which made me a little red faced). Where are you getting this new
information. Don't tell me another FAQ you can't remember where it's at. :)
It's a joke. Don't rip my head off. Gez, I already said you were right and I
was going to use it. Some people just can't take a little ribbing. ;)

Your still one of the best in my book. But then again, many in my book have
fallen from grace. I just haven't gotten around to take them out. :)

Deacon Blues deconblu

rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

75 F100 360/C6 390 ~soon~
68 Fairlane SW
82 Suburban
65 Delta 88 2dr 70 Cutlass S 2dr 72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31 72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr 70 442 W30 conv 72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr 71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:28:05 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: Header Wrap

>

>P.S. After burning up 2 starters in my F100 (360) I ditched the

>headers. I had to gas-axe them apart to get them out! OTOH those new

>Tri-Ys look neat but are costly! I wonder if they have better starter

>clearance?

>

Tri-Y's, What in the world is a Tri-Y??????????

Keith Srb herbie

netvalue.net

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie

Mesa, AZ

1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi
5-Speed.

1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.

1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long
Box, Style Side.

1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner,

Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.

My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:40:51 -0500
From: Kenneth Payne
Subject: RE: Header Wrap

>
>> It costs about $10 per roll, each roll is good for about one long
>> pipe so it'll run about $80. I use in on my gas line - it
>> immediately got rid of vapor lock problems the truck was having.
>
>Is that the fiberglass 1" stuff? I think I paid closer to $30 for a
>roll and it took 3 rolls for my full length headers. $17 for the
>retainers and about $6 for the black hi-temp paint as I recall :-)
>
>Don't forget the doctor fees when you slice yourself on the
>retainers............
>
>Where's Murphy when
>you really need him??
>

Actually, I bought 3" wrap at SuperShops about 2 years ago. Its
aluminum on one side, fiberglass on the other.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:47:14 -0500
From: Gardner
Subject: Re: Header Wrap

SuperMagot wrote:
>
> In a message dated 98-01-14 23:04:45 EST, you write:
>
>
> header wrap. i do not know which brand. >>
>
> I must have missed the original discussionon header wraps, but I have heard
> that
> using it on headers for street vehicles can cause problems.
>
> Supposedly (im not a metallurgist so I dont know) the headers retain too much
> heat, and the metal crystalizes and becomes very brittle over time. In other
> words, the normal heat up and expansion cycle is increased significantly
> becuase the heat is retained by the header wrap. This will shorten header
> life.
>
> It sounds logical, but I dont know.
>
> FYI
>
> - Mike
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79

listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

I would just have the headers ceramic coated by Jet Hot if I were going
to do anything! They cover the inside and outside in ceramic coating
this reducing heat temperature and is decent looking unlike having
header wrap under the hood!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:48:16 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Tri-Y

The Tri-Ys have a different tube configuration than the
'traditional' 4 into 1 type. See them at www.stans-headers.com!

===
John Pajak

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:49:42 -0500
From: Gardner
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL

Deacon wrote:
>
> >> From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
> >> Subject: Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL
> >> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:35:30 -0600
> >
> >> I guess I must of missed some posts or a digest because I don't
> >> remember any discussion about the Pennzoil synthetic. I'm just
> >> asking what you know because I did my first oil change with Pennzoil
> >> Performax this past weekend. The bottle says it is 100% synthetic.
> >> I bought it because it is $1/qt. cheaper at the local walmart than
> >> the Mobil 1. comments???????
> >
> >Cool! I'll have to look into that. The PZL has done allright for me
> >so far but I was disappointed to discover I had been duped :-( It's
> >really embarrassing to get up on your soap box only to discover
> >you've been telling lies :-( Unintentionally of course, but I could
> >have done more research..................
> >
> >Where's Murphy when
> >you really need him??
> >
> >-- Gary --
>
> Come on Gary, don't be so hard on yourself. That's my job! :) I'm going
> to try it in my F350. I would also like to look into synthetic trans fluid
> and rearend lube. Besides from what I've seen PZL states 100% synthetic
> (which made me a little red faced). Where are you getting this new
> information. Don't tell me another FAQ you can't remember where it's at. :)
> It's a joke. Don't rip my head off. Gez, I already said you were right and I
> was going to use it. Some people just can't take a little ribbing. ;)
>
> Your still one of the best in my book. But then again, many in my book have
> fallen from grace. I just haven't gotten around to take them out. :)
>
> Deacon Blues deconblu

gte.net
> ================================================
> Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79

listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

What do you think of redline synthetics? I think I am going to try them.
They have oil, trans fluid and differential fluid(all synthetics)! Read
an article when a tuner company used it in most of there applications
and gained 3-5 hp just changing to them.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:58:05 -0500
From: dchez

juno.com
Subject: Re: 360/390 ??

I was just curios, with all this talk about the differences between the
360 and the 390. How can you tell the difference between the two
externally? I'm considering buying a late 60's or early 70's truck and
would really like to know what I'm getting. Are there certain casting
numbers to look for or any other distinguishing features? TIA.

Dave Sanchez
dchez

juno.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:17:56 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: 360/390 ??

ECampb5214 wrote:
>
> It's for sale write to me if your intrested.
>
> 76' F-250 Ranger XLT 360ci. C6 8 ft bed dual gas tanks A/C REcent Black w/
> Battleship gray paint job Plus much more.

What part of Minnesota you in? I'm in WI.
Price?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 15:30:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL

> Date: Thu, 15 Jan 98 09:00:00 -0800
> From: Adam Clever
> Subject: Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL

> say, how does one dispose of synthetic oil? most recycle depots
> only accept 'uncontaminated' oil--no brake, transmission, etc.

Oooops! I've been just putting it with my motor oil but if it's not
relly synthetic then I'm ok anyway but why would it not be ok? I
suppose they don't distill the same way?

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:30:50 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Header Wrap

>P.S. After burning up 2 starters in my F100 (360) I ditched the
>headers. I had to gas-axe them apart to get them out! OTOH those new
>Tri-Ys look neat but are costly! I wonder if they have better starter
>clearance?
>
>===
>John Pajak

I wrapped my starter with aluminum header wrap. My starter has lasted over a
year sitting under my '93 Ford Mustang shorties on my '73 F100. I didn't
wrap my headers because I was told of the damage it may cause.

Deacon Blues deconblu

rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

75 F100

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:51:36 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL

- --Gardner wrote:
What do you think of redline synthetics? I think I am going to try them.
They have oil, trans fluid and differential fluid(all synthetics)! Read
an article when a tuner company used it in most of there applications
and gained 3-5 hp just changing to them.

>>Supposedly the current available non-synthetic ATF is not as good as
the same stuff a few years ago. The reason: lockup converters. They
have cut back on the quality of the fluid because the new cars don't
build up much heat in the fluid. So, synthetic ATF might be a good
idea in a 'traditional' application since it has such a high breakdown
temperature. Also, Synthetic gear oil does help stick transmissions
make those first few 1-2 shifts in cold weather without the synchros
complaining! Synthetic lubricants are slowly making their way into all
my trucks/cars :)

My .02

===
John Pajak

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 13:02:14 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Header Wrap

SuperMagot wrote:

> In a message dated 98-01-14 23:04:45 EST, you write:
>
>
> header wrap. i do not know which brand. >>
>
> I must have missed the original discussionon header wraps, but I have heard
> that
> using it on headers for street vehicles can cause problems.
>
> Supposedly (im not a metallurgist so I dont know) the headers retain too much
> heat, and the metal crystalizes and becomes very brittle over time. In other
> words, the normal heat up and expansion cycle is increased significantly
> becuase the heat is retained by the header wrap. This will shorten header
> life.

Mike: This is in fact true as I have seen this personally. A friend of mine
wrapped the headers on his motorhome and shortly thereafter they self
destructed.

Why not go for the ceramic coating? Keeps heat in much more effectively plus
looks much better. If you would like some information on this process, check out
this website:
www.performancecoatings.com.

Thanks
John

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 GT500
66 Corvette

64 427 L/R
66 427 M/R
68 427
71 427 ZL1

>
>
> It sounds logical, but I dont know.
>
> FYI
>
> - Mike
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79

listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:18:35 -0800
From: marko

helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: 360/390 ??

>I was just curios, with all this talk about the differences between the
>360 and the 390. How can you tell the difference between the two
>externally? I'm considering buying a late 60's or early 70's truck and
>would really like to know what I'm getting. Are there certain casting
>numbers to look for or any other distinguishing features? TIA.
>
>Dave Sanchez
>dchez

juno.com

Dave,

It's virtually impossible to tell unless you have an engine sticker that
hasn't been removed, etc.

The blocks are pretty much all the same casting, as are the heads and the
intake. To know for sure you gotta be sure the engine hasn't been swapped
and look at the VIN code. Trust me, you'd rather have a 390. Trouble is,
the VIN code notation changes from year to year. Sometimes it's a Y, or an
M, or other things, depending for what.

You can also stick a wire down the spark plug hole and measure the stroke,
which is 1/4" longer on a 390. If you can be that accurate.

Or, you can pull the pan off and look at the pistons. If they have a full
skirt then they're 360, if they have a slipper skirt (cut around below the
wrist pin to clear the weights on the crank) you have a 390 (or, if you're
really, really lucky, a 410). But if you had a 410 you'd be looking at a
Mercury car from 66-67 only.

Here's what you do:

Pick your truck and let me know if you think it's a 360 or a 390, based on
what people tell you. Then I will get out my book and cross reference
things for you. Or, you can buy your own book, "how to rebuild big-block
ford engines", by Steve Christ, from Internet Racer's supply, about $15,
well worth the $ for any FE owner or owner-to-be.

marko in vancouver
marko

helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:23:57 -0800
From: marko

helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL

>Oooops! I've been just putting it with my motor oil but if it's not
>relly synthetic then I'm ok anyway but why would it not be ok? I
>suppose they don't distill the same way?
>
I don't see the problem either. You're not mixing gear oil and motor oil,
or, say, motor oil and antifreeze.

marko in vancouver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:39:29 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Recycle

From: John Pajak
> Synthetic oil starts out as 'real' oil, then it's molecule chains
>are improved (lengthened I think) to improve on the oil's properties.

I don't think 100% synthetic oil was ever dead dino. Wouldn't that be like
organic synthetic oil? :) I have been wrong before (or so I'm told).

Deacon Blues deconblu

gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 19:58:27 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Synthetic Oils

Many new vehicles (dodge HD manual trans for example) require synthetic oil
from the manufacturer.
i have been using only amsoil synthetic ATF in my C6 and it does work well.
tranny seams to be alot cooler and it shifts smoother, but still not
"sloppy". (no slipping)

i use synthetic gear oil when i know the axle will be staying together for
awhile.

after 2 seasons of pulling, and some other driving, the fluid still looks
like it did when it came out of the bottle, and even smells the same too!
i have been using amsoil, and mobil 1 synthetic motor oil also.
synthetics, will leak more than non-synthetics if there is already a leak,
and may leak through places that you didn't know were leaking yet. but
they will not "create leaks".

and the winner of my absolute favorite is, the card please . . . .
synthetic grease. yes, i have found the synth grease to be by far the best
synthetic product around. this stuff is fantastic. i use mobil, but i am
sure other brands are good too. last time i had my front end apart, the
grease in the hub still looked great. unlike what i have seen with the
standard grease. i also noticed that in extreme cold, the wheel moves
freer. jack up a wheel and see how it turns in cold, with and without
synthetic grease and you'll see what i mean.

sleddog

Synthetic lubricants are slowly making their way into all
my trucks/cars :)

My .02

===
John Pajak

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Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 18:13:54 -0800
From: danadeb

pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Tailshaft housing

The C6 in my truck has a bolt on yoke. the "Small Block" C6 I have has a slip
yoke. ( BTW Small Block C6 is for sale! )

Dana

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Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 21:54:07 EST
From: Chekerdpst
Subject: Re: Header Wrap

i agree with the wrap shortening header life. On a motorcycle turbo exhaust
manifold(in a car), we killed a set of mild steel headers in ~ 15 hours of
combination dyno and development time. The welds cracked, and the turbo....

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