fordtrucks61-79-digest Friday, May 1 1998 Volume 02 : Number 239



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979
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In this issue:

Calvin Stickers [Ractrk002 ]
Re: windshield [Dennis Pearson ]
Re: NewBie [OldTrux ]
Re: ["Ron" ]
Front D44 to 3/4 ton conversion [BDIJXS ]
RE: Blocks or Springs? [Sleddog ]
390 4V Super Marauder? ["Brian Forbes" ]
Re: 390 4V Super Marauder? ["Bill Beyer" ]
SOLENOID [ "SGT WILLIAM A WHITED"]
Re: 390 4V Super Marauder? [Dennis Pearson ]
Re: SOLENOID [Mike Schwall ]
RE: Synthetic Oil [DC Beatty ]
bleeding brakes.... [Jesus Cardoso ]
Re: windshield [GMPACHECO ]
Re: bleeding brakes.... [BPayne1011 ]
Re: Snaps around the rear window on the inside of the cab [ROSITCH SSRL.S]
Re: NewBie ["John Miller" ]

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 18:03:58 EDT
From: Ractrk002
Subject: Calvin Stickers

Does anyone know where on the Internet I could find the image of Calvin
Pissing. I'm trying to make a shirt with his pissing on the EPA logo.
Appreciate any help!





JT
1969 F100 302/T18 2WD
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 15:10:49 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: windshield

I'll have to ask him Saturday. He did draw spiderweb cracks all over it
with a felt marker.
Funny guy.

Thanks for your message at 12:57 PM 4/30/98 -0700, Aaron Jacobson. Your
message was:
>Thanks for the tips. Hey,Mike in Seattle tell me more about the fishing
>line trick! Dennis, did Levi pull yours out through the inside?
>Jake in B.C.
>65 f250 camper special flat black and still going
>351c
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>

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 18:20:52 EDT
From: OldTrux
Subject: Re: NewBie

In a message dated 98-04-29 12:43:37 EDT, you write:


code, I can look up the nearest dealer near you with a factory tailgate. >>
How about a STYLESIDE '66 F100 tailgate area code 630 or 847 or 815 ?
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 18:23:38 -0400
From: "Ron"
Subject: Re:

I have always used number 10, 12 or 14 gage plastic coated electrical wire
for this and never has it broken. Be sure to spray all the silicone you
can on the windows edges and frame too. Install the wire in the grove the
glass frame enters and spray again. This will allow all the things to
slide in much easier. And it will touch all the surfaces for sure. This
is not for the amature to try. At least go by and watch a glass shop do it
a few times first. A wrong pull here or a push there will surely snap the
glass.

Ron

- ----------
> From: Jay Branscome
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject:
> Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 4:19 PM
>
> Jake in BC.
> The fishing line trick is this as I know it...
>
> Install the trim in the rubber. Put the rubber onto your new glass. Put
> a small bead of dish soap, about 1/4 inch all the way around the rubber
> where it fits into the window frame. Wrap a very strong piece of fishing
> line, or very strong rope, cord etc into the same groove as the soap.
> They should meet at the bottom side of the glass. Place the bottom edge
> of the glass and seal on the bottom edge of the window frame and work as
> much of it as you can by hand over the edge. Once you get to where you
> cant do it by hand begin very slowly and cafefully begin to puul the
> line, cord etc out of the groove so that it causes the rubber to slip
> over the edge of the frame. Do this untill the rubber is completely
> sealed. The reason someone said to use fishing line is that it is strong
> enough to do the job, yet also small enough that if it breaks and you
> cant get it all out it wont raise the seal enough to cause any leaks...
>
> Good Luck.
>
> ______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 18:34:50 EDT
From: BDIJXS
Subject: Front D44 to 3/4 ton conversion

I think I must have mis-understood what Mike originally said. I thought he
said that his stock inner axle was about one inch shorter than the HD inner
axle. This didn't sound correct to me, but if it was, if he put the HD axle
into his stock housing, I figured it would stick out too far...in other words,
it wouldn't work.....Mike is this what you said? If it is what you said, I
still don't understand since the housings should be the same. The only other
difference might be inside the carrier where the axles slide in.....maybe a
limited slip carrier has its axle receivers further in (or out)......flying
blind here.....

If you said that the stub axles from your 1/2 ton setup were about an inch
shorter than your HD stub axles, then I would believe you since that was the
deal with mine. I simply used the stock inner axles and the HD stubs...all
went together perfectly. When I say "external", these locking hubs have six
big cap screws holding them on. They come apart in two pieces, the big chrome
outer piece, then the intermediate hub piece which is about 1-1/2" wide. The
internal types come apart with smaller cap screws and no big intermediate
piece. The reason I was asking was that I thought the big external types were
only available in 76 - 77, but I'm not sure. I know that Dave W. probably
knows, he's the Highboy guru.....

Well, sorry about any confusion.....

Colorado Jeff








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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 18:39:26 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Blocks or Springs?

blocks do tend to wrap up, and the taller springs will help prevent that.
you do not want ladder bars unless you are running alot of power/torque.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Stu Varner[SMTP:varners ten-nash.ten.k12.tn.us]
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 1998 5:12 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net
Subject: Re: Blocks or Springs?

At 09:50 AM 4/30/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm replacing my rear leafs with custom-made units. My stock F-100 4x4 has
3"
>blocks below the stock springs. Instead of making the new springs
compatible
>with the blocks, I'm thinking of eliminating the blocks all together and
just
>having the new springs with the bigger arc to achieve the lift I want.....
>
>Any thoughts on if its better to keep or get rid of the blocks? I'm
thinking
>the blocks have a tendency to cause more wrap-up.....
>
Ladder bars?

Stu
Nuke GM!

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 18:49:25 -0500
From: "Brian Forbes"
Subject: 390 4V Super Marauder?

I've got a quick question about the 390's. I have a chance at buying a 65
Merc. Monterey with a 390 4V Super Marauder. The thing is that the engine
has a 2bbl. carb on it. Is this correct? I know this isn't about F100's but
it would help me greatly.

Also, could anybody tell me where I can decipher the VIN codes?


Thanks,
Brian Forbes

65 F100 Camper Special 352, Np435
66 F100 Customizing 302, C6
65 Merc Monterey 390, Fordomatic (Maybe)

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 17:06:41 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: 390 4V Super Marauder?

Hmmm...what's wrong with this picture? Sounds like maybe an engine swap or
at least a manifold/carb swap.

- ----------
> From: Brian Forbes
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: 390 4V Super Marauder?
> Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 4:49 PM
>
> I've got a quick question about the 390's. I have a chance at buying a 65
> Merc. Monterey with a 390 4V Super Marauder. The thing is that the engine
> has a 2bbl. carb on it. Is this correct? I know this isn't about F100's
but
> it would help me greatly.
>
> Also, could anybody tell me where I can decipher the VIN codes?
>
>

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 98 19:03:16 -0400
From: "SGT WILLIAM A WHITED"
Subject: SOLENOID

I have got a 74 F100 Ranger with a 71 390, I'm replacing the solenoid
and I currently have 3 little wires on the little posts, I replaced the
solenoid a month ago and I believe it caused the problem with my negative
battery connect melting. Does any one know where these wires are supposed
to be hooked up. I have a Haynes manual and it doesn't go it enough detail
the solenoid I have is F496 and has 4 posts the 2 main and 2 little ones I
and S. Any info I can get is appreciated. Thanks. Tony

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 18:57:10 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: 390 4V Super Marauder?

Thanks for your message at 06:49 PM 4/30/98 -0500, Brian Forbes. Your
message was:
>I've got a quick question about the 390's. I have a chance at buying a 65
>Merc. Monterey with a 390 4V Super Marauder. The thing is that the engine
>has a 2bbl. carb on it.

I'm confused. Did someone put a 4V Super Marauder decal on a two-barrel
air cleaner housing or valve covers?

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 20:54:07 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: SOLENOID

At 06:03 PM 4/30/98 , you wrote:
> I have got a 74 F100 Ranger with a 71 390, I'm replacing the solenoid
>and I currently have 3 little wires on the little posts, I replaced the
>solenoid a month ago and I believe it caused the problem with my negative
>battery connect melting. Does any one know where these wires are supposed
>to be hooked up. I have a Haynes manual and it doesn't go it enough detail
>the solenoid I have is F496 and has 4 posts the 2 main and 2 little ones I
>and S. Any info I can get is appreciated. Thanks. Tony


According to my Haynes manual, the red with blue stripe wire goes on the
"S" terminal, and the brown/black wire goes to the "I" terminal. Book says
BK for the "I" terminal. Brown with black stripe or Black.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN PAGE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 23:07:27 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: Synthetic Oil

All this talk about synthetics has me wondering. In a few weeks I'll be
dropping in the 390 I got for my truck. I resealed the whole motor, and p=
ut
new rod and main bearings in it. I did nothing to the rings or heads, as
the compression seemed real good and there was no oil fouling on the plug=
s.
Do you guys think going to a synthetic oil would be a good idea in this
situation?

Thanks for any advice. =


Drew Beatty
1967 F100 352 (soon to be 390)
1974 Maverick 302


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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 23:04:57 -0500 (CDT)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: bleeding brakes....

HOWDY!

I am sorry if this question has been asked before...
I have been told that there is a certain order that you have to
follow to bleed a brake system. Can anyone tell me what order I should
follow to bleed the brakes on my 63 2WD F100? I have also had a hard time
finding hardware for this truck, I was only able to find the return
springs that go on top of the shoes and the ones that go around the
adjusters. I have gone to the NAPA here in town and called Obsolete in
OK. What I really need is the hold down springs and cups, mine are pretty
worn out. Has one had any luck finding these for a 63 F100?

Thanks for ya'lls time and help.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy
Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab)
Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University
College Station, TX 77843-3128
w: 409-845-4623, h: 409-775-0737, fax: 845-6259
Personal Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214
e-mail: cardoso ee.tamu.edu, url: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso



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Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 00:51:56 EDT
From: GMPACHECO
Subject: Re: windshield

Its pretty simple, what you do is first pull the trim or molding.. then get a
sharp punch or carpetlayers needle and feed fishing line through the
windshield weatherstrip. Then get 1 person inside the vehicle and 1 person on
the outsided (on the hood) then each of you pull the fishing string in and
out like a saw Make sure you both wear gloves... then keep pulling right
around the weatherstriping. When you completely see-saw around the stripping
have the person on the inside use their feet to gently kick the windshield out
from the top. It takes a little bit of cleaning up afterwards, but the
weatherstripping should be re-useable. Oh yeah... don't forget to pull the
windshield wiper arms and blades.

Mike in Seattle.

You'll see this happen at a pick your part yard alot... thats where I learned
that trick.
About the installation ( I paid to have a Professional install it... well
worth the money..
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Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 00:59:25 EDT
From: BPayne1011
Subject: Re: bleeding brakes....

start with the farthest away from the master cylinder and work in
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 23:57:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: ROSITCH SSRL.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU
Subject: Re: Snaps around the rear window on the inside of the cab

Keith (and everyone else),
Those snaps were probably used for a camper opening, a big rubber boot
connecting the cab of the truck to the inside of the camper (shell or
cab-over unit). My old F-250 Camper Special had them with a cab-over
camper box.

Don Rositch
'66 F250
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Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 03:27:30 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: NewBie

> In a message dated 98-04-29 12:43:37 EDT, you write:....


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