Re: 351 W heads

fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, April 30 1998 Volume 02 : Number 238

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979
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In this issue:

Re: 351 W heads ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
SWMBO ??? [jniolon

uss.com]
Re: Synthetic Oil ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Front D44 to 3/4 ton conversion [james oxley ]
Re: Front D44 to 3/4 ton conversion ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: SWMBO ??? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: SWMBO ??? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: SB Heads [Leonard Stampfly ]
Re: SWMBO ??? [Dennis Pearson ]
Re: Paint&Body [Stu Varner ]
Blocks or Springs? [BDIJXS ]
Re: Blocks or Springs? [Stu Varner ]
Re: Paint&Body [Dennis Pearson ]
Re: Blocks or Springs? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Paint&Body ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Pigeon Forge and 360's [jeff bogart ]
RE: 70/71 460 build-up [Sleddog ]
RE: Front D44 to 3/4 ton conversion ["Michael R. Masse"
STARTING PROBLEMS [ "SGT WILLIAM A WHITED"]
Re: Pigeon Forge and 360's [Ken Payne ]
Snaps around the rear window on the inside of the cab [Keith Srb
RE: SWMBO ??? [Sleddog ]
Re: SWMBO ??? ["Bill Beyer" ]
windshield [Aaron Jacobson ]
Re: 351 W heads [George Herpich ]
[none] ["Jay Branscome" ]
Re: Paint&Body ["Deacon" ]
Re: 352 or 390? [Dan Koster ]
Re: STARTING PROBLEMS ["John Miller" ]
FI for the Dekemobile...was: Re: Paint&Body ["Bill Beyer"
Re: Snaps around the rear window on the inside of the cab ["Deacon"

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 07:47:42 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 351 W heads

> Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 18:51:34 -0400
> From: George Herpich
> Subject: Re: 351 W heads

> out too much. If the head port is smaller than the intake manifold
> it's ok.

George, did you misspeak? Seems to me that the intake should be
smaller to prevent reversion? Exhaust port should be smaller
than header inlet but intake should be the reverse??

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Subject: SWMBO ???

ok, I'm either dumb or dumber someone tell me

Whats SWMBO?

john
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 08:09:40 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil

> From: BDIJXS
> Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 19:43:17 EDT
> Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil

> Just wanted to add my experience with synthetic oil. Its all been
> very good. I have it in my truck, car, dirt bike, and tractor. I was
> leary about the leaks as well, but if you can believe it, my FE
> doesn't leak a drop.

This is very good news. What brand do you use?

> The primary thing I noticed was that the engine turns over much
> faster in the mornings while starting. This seemed like a good thing
> to me....plus, I change it about 6000 to 8000 miles. It seems nobody
> really says when to change it, so I went with this this
> interval....no problems so far after about 3 years....

VI and "Pour" or "Flow" are the numbers that makes it start better
in the AM and no petroleum oil can come close to synthetics in that
deparment. Amsoil says 25k under normal highway conditions and less
for each degree of worse conditions all the way down to 3k under the
worst conditions. They claim they support dirt track racers who
change oil at the beginning of the season and again mid season and
claim excellent results but they use good filters on every thing too.
Some of these guys run 7k rpm out there or even more in the pro
classes like the sprint cars.

The paperwork with the amsoil says they guarantee no engine damage
if you follow their recommendations with their oil. Their numbers
look real good too: VI, Flash, pour, flow etc.. In reality the Mobil
1 and Redline numbers are very similar in most cases and these oils
are cheaper unless you are an independent dealer but the Amsoil VI
was better so I thought I'd try it. Let you all know in a year or so
:-)

The improved flow numbers should show up in auto tranny applications
too as better shifting and longer converter clutch life. As soon as
I get a new converter in the TBird I'll be using that too.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 08:19:13 -0700
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: Front D44 to 3/4 ton conversion

BDIJXS wrote:
>
> Hi Michael,
>
> I just finished doing the same conversion to mine and used the 77 F-150 inner
> axle shafts and the 76 F-250HD stub axles....sounds like you did it the right
> way.

What is the difference between F-250 HD axles and reg 44 axles on
pre-78 trucks?? 78-79's should swap right over.

OX
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> Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 06:46 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: SWMBO ???

> ok, I'm either dumb or dumber someone tell me
>
> Whats SWMBO?

Single White Male...........Oooooppps, wrong list :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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> > Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 06:46 -0400 (EDT)
> > Subject: SWMBO ???
>
> > ok, I'm either dumb or dumber someone tell me
> >
> > Whats SWMBO?
>
> Single White Male...........Oooooppps, wrong list :-)

Ok, Ok, I'm old and tired but my brain just de-fogged. It means
"She Who Must Be Obeyed" Ha! Thought you'd catch me on that one
didn't you :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:04:49 -0400
From: Leonard Stampfly
Subject: Re: SB Heads

Need some information. Are late model 302 and 351 heads the same? Does
this include the 302 H.O. heads? I need an inexpensive bolt-on
improvement for my 75 302.

Leo
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 06:38:51 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: SWMBO ???

Thanks for your message at 08:33 AM 4/30/98 +0000, Gary, 78 BBB. Your
message was:
>> > Whats SWMBO?
>>
>> Single White Male...........Oooooppps, wrong list :-)
>
>Ok, Ok, I'm old and tired but my brain just de-fogged. It means
>"She Who Must Be Obeyed" Ha! Thought you'd catch me on that one
>didn't you :-)
>
Or Saying What Might Be Obvious

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 08:35:21 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Paint&Body

>>> I take it back, Stu needs to learn something from you "Older
>>>Students". Stu has 6th graders so all he gets is milk money for A's.
>>
>>Deacon,
>> Oh master, oh wise one of FTE, Oh grasshopper, I have learned from
>>my elders and I feel I may be in for a transfer next year to the Jr.
>>High.........
>>I feel there may be more money in it there!! Got to pay for that new
>Cobra!!
>>:^)
>
>And those Jr High chicks

EASY!!! I do get serious about making comments about students.........I
have alittle integrity in me. No harm No foul! :^)
>

I ain't gettin no stinkin Cobra.....(Doesn't mean I don't want one,
but....)Heck, I teach school, have a mortgage, restoring a truck, 2 kids in
diapers and one comin in October......If I buy anything it will be the
services of some skilful, I do mean very skillful and careful craftsman
(DR>)to do a little plumbing work on my body to prevent the kid thing. I'd
much rather buy some nice truck parts than a Cobra........I just had to dig
a little at Deacon, the master of mouth, and my mentor . :OP

You guys would throw me off the list If I showed up in a new Snake!! Even
if it is made by Henry's boys! No carb, no list!!

Stu

Nuke GM!!
Visit my homepage at www.pscico.com/stu

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:50:45 EDT
From: BDIJXS
Subject: Blocks or Springs?

I'm replacing my rear leafs with custom-made units. My stock F-100 4x4 has 3"
blocks below the stock springs. Instead of making the new springs compatible
with the blocks, I'm thinking of eliminating the blocks all together and just
having the new springs with the bigger arc to achieve the lift I want.....

Any thoughts on if its better to keep or get rid of the blocks? I'm thinking
the blocks have a tendency to cause more wrap-up.....

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:12:47 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Blocks or Springs?

At 09:50 AM 4/30/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm replacing my rear leafs with custom-made units. My stock F-100 4x4 has 3"
>blocks below the stock springs. Instead of making the new springs compatible
>with the blocks, I'm thinking of eliminating the blocks all together and just
>having the new springs with the bigger arc to achieve the lift I want.....
>
>Any thoughts on if its better to keep or get rid of the blocks? I'm thinking
>the blocks have a tendency to cause more wrap-up.....
>
Ladder bars?

Stu
Nuke GM!

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 07:44:48 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: Paint&Body

Thanks for your message at 08:35 AM 4/30/98 -0600, Stu Varner. Your message
was:
>
>>> Oh master, oh wise one of FTE, Oh grasshopper, I have learned from
>>>my elders and I feel I may be in for a transfer next year to the Jr.
>>>High.........
>>>I feel there may be more money in it there!! Got to pay for that new
>>Cobra!!
>>>:^)
>>
>>And those Jr High chicks
>
>EASY!!! I do get serious about making comments about students.........I
>have alittle integrity in me. No harm No foul! :^)

Good, very good!

>I ain't gettin no stinkin Cobra.....(Doesn't mean I don't want one,
>but....)Heck, I teach school, have a mortgage, restoring a truck, 2 kids in
>diapers and one comin in October......If I buy anything it will be the
>services of some skilful, I do mean very skillful and careful craftsman
>(DR>)to do a little plumbing work on my body to prevent the kid thing.

Been there...years ago. I don't know how soft your truck rides, but if
it's like mine (stiff!!) Don'T drive it home after the "plumbing job."

Love my truck, but it does bounce over those railroad tracks.

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1970 Marquis 429
1973 Mustang 302 (tired)
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 10:52:00 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Blocks or Springs?

> From: BDIJXS
> Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:50:45 EDT
> Subject: Blocks or Springs?

> I'm thinking of eliminating the
> blocks all together and just having the new springs with the bigger
> arc to achieve the lift I want.....
>
> Any thoughts on if its better to keep or get rid of the blocks? I'm
> thinking the blocks have a tendency to cause more wrap-up.....

Depends on the lift height you want. At 3" the wrap shouldn't be too
bad but as you go up it will show up. My stock bronco (no blocks)
wraps if I get on it hard but I have a stick and 33" tires. With
auto I would expect less wrap due to less abruptness.

My feeling is that ladder bars with pivots on the same axis as the
front shackles would be real nice to have but if you have an auto
tranny and don't lift more than 3-4" AND don't race or bogg you may
not need any of that, otherwise I'd say you do need them. I wish I
had them with my stock set up due to the harshness of the stick.

I remember running a "Torque Tube" in a brand I won't mention with a
stick back in the 60's and it was so smooth when you dumped the
clutch at 5 grand.........:-) My dad's 61 ford OTOH would hop so bad
I couldn't have any fun at all.......:-( (still wore the tires off
of it though)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 11:36:23 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Paint&Body

> Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 07:44:48 -0700
> From: Dennis Pearson
> Subject: Re: Paint&Body

> Been there...years ago. I don't know how soft your truck rides, but
> if it's like mine (stiff!!) Don'T drive it home after the "plumbing
> job."

There wasn't a chair soft enough in my house after mine......one week
of agony but well worth it IMHO :-) Last kid, 1975 :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 12:04:08 -0400
From: jeff bogart
Subject: Pigeon Forge and 360's

I have been lurking about for a couple of months now, and I thought it was time to ask a few questions. My first question is about my 360. I have to put a new tranny in my truck (c6) and I am going to pull the motor out to change it. The motor runs good, uses very little oil, and does not smoke. The oil it does use is external leaks (valve covers, etc.).
Any thing I should do while I have the motor out? I have a new oil pump and plan to put it in.
Second question- The F100 Nationals in Pigeon Forge- Is it just a show or is there a parts sale too? (my 68 Ranger needs LOTS of parts!!!!!)

Thanks in advance,
Jeff Bogart
jbogart

stc.net

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 11:51:12 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 70/71 460 build-up

9.5:1 will work fine, and that is with no combustion chamber work. a
little work to the chamber, and you can go better. my curent CR is a
little higher than 9:1 and i can run 87 octane ot WFO throttle under full
load with no detonation at all.

don't worry about too big a cam - go with the larger one you most likely
will be happier with it. it does take a bigger cam to feed bigger CID
engines. a 351 may have too much cam at .525 lift and 280 dur., but in a
460 this is just the beginning of power.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Jason K. Schechner[SMTP:jas

cais.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 1998 10:30 PM
To: fordnatics

lists.best.com; fordtrucks61-79

ListService.net
Subject: 70/71 460 build-up

Took the 460 into the machinist today so I'm going to need to mae
some decisions pretty soon. Stock CR for this engine was 10.5:1, though
that was with leaded fuel, etc. This engine is going into my offroad
truck and isn't likely to see high RPM's. The cams I'm considering have
redlines of 4500 and 5500 (I'll bring in my catalogs tomorrow to give
specific specs) with fairly low duration to make lots of low-end torque.
How high could/should I go with the CR to be able to use pump gas,
preferably 87octane? I know I'm going to have to reduce it from 10.5:1,
but how much? Will 9.5:1 work? Remember that this truck will spend a
lot of time off-road, going slowly through trails and idling while other
(less worthy trucks) get stuck in front of me. :-)
Thanks! I'm also looking for cam recommendations. Crower
supposedly makes cams that work well with higher CR engines. Any seconds
to that? How 'bout compcams?

- -Jason
79 Bronco (460 in progress! C6, 33" BFG AT's) GRN GYNT - offroad monster
79 Bronco (400M, C6, 31" Wranglers) blue - BGHOSS
95 Mustang GT - LTLHOS - Eibachs, 3.55's, K&N, 13deg timing
84 Kawasaki GPz550 - TNYHOS - to make up for the Broncos' appetite

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Jason K. Schechner - check out www.cauce.org and help ban spam-mail.
=The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has bounds=
JaSage: "Do bald men have bad head days?"

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 12:41:15 -0500
From: "Michael R. Masse"
Subject: RE: Front D44 to 3/4 ton conversion

I'm not sure what you mean by internal or external type hubs, but you
can see them at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.medicine.wisc.edu/~mrm/bronco/axle/hubs.jpg
You can see the old tiny ones, and the HUGE ones from the 75. Also in
your message you stated that "it sounds like it should stick out maybe a
half inch or so compared to the stock one." Is this okay to leave it
like this? I'm thinking I will just use the stock inner shafts with the
HD outers, but I'm just curious if there is any strength difference
between the HD and the stock 1/2 ton axle shafts. They look to be the
same spline count.

Colorado Jeff wrote:

Hi Michael,

I just finished doing the same conversion to mine and used the 77 F-150
inner
axle shafts and the 76 F-250HD stub axles....sounds like you did it the
right
way. Have you tried fitting the 75 inner axle into the housing? If so,
it
sounds like it should stick out maybe a half inch or so compared to the
stock
one....By the way, are your 75 locking hubs the internal or external
type?

-Mike
'78 Bronco Custom
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 98 12:58:57 -0400
From: "SGT WILLIAM A WHITED"
Subject: STARTING PROBLEMS

I have a 74 F100 Ranger Super Cab with a 71 390 in it. It has been
hard to start when warm, but if I wait and extra 2 or 3 minutes fires up
fine. I replaced the seliniod about a month ago also the spark module
around the same time. Today when I went to start it won't fire up while
hot and it melded the negative battery terminal connection and it keep
turning over after I shut the ignition off. And now it won't do anything ,
even after I changed the negative cable. I have power lights and
everything else, except it won't start. Any info you can give is
appreciated. Tony

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 13:50:45 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Pigeon Forge and 360's

At 12:04 PM 4/30/98 -0400, you wrote:
- -snip-

>Second question- The F100 Nationals in Pigeon Forge- Is it just a show or
is there a parts sale too? (my 68 Ranger needs LOTS of parts!!!!!)
>

Tons of vendors with show specials plus people who show up with a pickup
bed full of parts.

Ken

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 11:49:19 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Snaps around the rear window on the inside of the cab

I just saw a 71 F100 that had a series of snaps, on the inside of the cab,
that went around the back window. My 74 F250 has the holes around the back
window, but it looks like someone took the snaps out. Does anyone know what
these snaps were used for??

Thanks!

Keith Srb herbie

netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner,
Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box Style Side.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 14:49:29 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: SWMBO ???

FYI AFAIK She Who Must Be Obeyed, or FWIW, IOW MOTOS, SO, usually your wife, IYKWIM.

sleddog

- ----------
From: jniolon

uss.com[SMTP:jniolon

uss.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 1998 2:46 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79

listservice.net
Subject: SWMBO ???

ok, I'm either dumb or dumber someone tell me

Whats SWMBO?

john
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 11:58:04 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: SWMBO ???

Showoff ;-)

- ----------
> From: Sleddog
> To: 'fordtrucks61-79

listservice.net'
> Subject: RE: SWMBO ???
> Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 11:49 AM
>
> FYI AFAIK She Who Must Be Obeyed, or FWIW, IOW MOTOS, SO, usually your
wife, IYKWIM.
>
> sleddog

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 12:57:45 -0700
From: Aaron Jacobson
Subject: windshield

Thanks for the tips. Hey,Mike in Seattle tell me more about the fishing
line trick! Dennis, did Levi pull yours out through the inside?
Jake in B.C.
65 f250 camper special flat black and still going
351c
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 16:02:53 -0400
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: 351 W heads

Oops, your right. Also it's not a restriction that way.
George

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:

> > Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 18:51:34 -0400
> > From: George Herpich
> > Subject: Re: 351 W heads
>
> > out too much. If the head port is smaller than the intake manifold
> > it's ok.
>
> George, did you misspeak? Seems to me that the intake should be
> smaller to prevent reversion? Exhaust port should be smaller
> than header inlet but intake should be the reverse??
>
> 78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
> 78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
> 78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
>
> -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 13:19:14 PDT
From: "Jay Branscome"
Subject: [none]

Jake in BC.
The fishing line trick is this as I know it...

Install the trim in the rubber. Put the rubber onto your new glass. Put
a small bead of dish soap, about 1/4 inch all the way around the rubber
where it fits into the window frame. Wrap a very strong piece of fishing
line, or very strong rope, cord etc into the same groove as the soap.
They should meet at the bottom side of the glass. Place the bottom edge
of the glass and seal on the bottom edge of the window frame and work as
much of it as you can by hand over the edge. Once you get to where you
cant do it by hand begin very slowly and cafefully begin to puul the
line, cord etc out of the groove so that it causes the rubber to slip
over the edge of the frame. Do this untill the rubber is completely
sealed. The reason someone said to use fishing line is that it is strong
enough to do the job, yet also small enough that if it breaks and you
cant get it all out it wont raise the seal enough to cause any leaks...

Good Luck.

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 13:21:36 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Paint&Body

From: Stu Varner
>I ain't gettin no stinkin Cobra

Liar liar pants on fire. If you do move up to Jr. High School, be
careful. I've seen on the news they carry guns! :[

>I have a little integrity in me.

Me too! That's why I tell people I'm a liar, cheat and a thief. Last
thing I want is for someone to question my integrity! :]

>If I buy anything it will be the
>services of some skilful, I do mean very skillful and careful craftsman
>(DR>)to do a little plumbing work on my body to prevent the kid thing.

I'll be more than happy to do it for you. I know the procedure inside
and out. Trust me, I won't feel a thing! I even know where there's a
vacant Dr. office where I can do it. Everything will be just fine. After
I finish, you won't even be able to fertilize your grass! ;]

>You guys would throw me off the list If I showed up in a new Snake!!
Even
>if it is made by Henry's boys! No carb, no list!!

Cheeses, I hope that's not true. A friend of mine is upgrading his
Stang's EFI with a Cobra and is giving me his upper and lower intake to
put on my truck. I wouldn't want to be kicked off the list for it!

Now that I let that cat out of the bag, I would like to get some
input on doing this. Anyone know all the parts I'll need to get from the
junkyard? I'm thinking I'll need an EEC, harness and injectors. Anything
else? Bring it on boyz. The good, bad and the ugly.

Deacon
deconblu

gte.net
=============================
Nuke the unborn baby whales.
=============================
Deacon's
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 13:33:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Koster
Subject: Re: 352 or 390?

Jay,

Here's what I've been able to collect so far:

1. C5AE 9425 C

1965 Ford car intake manifold

2. C7ME-A on the engine block

1967 Mercury engine
According to my book here, you've got a '67-70 428!

3. 29 and 352 on the driver's side of the block

Almost all FE engine came with a 352 imprinted on it. All
that means is that it is of the FE engine family.

4. C5TE 9430 C on the exhaust manifold

1965 Ford Truck standard exhaust manifold

5. C4AE 6090 G on the cylinder head

1964-65 Ford car 352/390 standard cylinder head

What a turn of events. Most of think we have a 427 or 428, only to
find out it is a 352/390. Today must be your lucky day!

I'd suggest trying to measure the bore and stroke of the
cylinder. That will be the only true way to tell what the
engine is.

Here's a chart to help you along:

3.50 3.78 3.98 Stroke
Bore 4.00 352
4.05 360 390
4.13 406 428
4.23 427

Let me know what you find out.

Good luck!

Dan

p.s. your 428 probably wasn't a Cobra-Jet, nor a Police
Interceptor. However, the standard 428 with a 4-valve
intake had a compression ratio of 10.5:1 and produced
340 hp

5200 rpm!

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 16:40:16 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: STARTING PROBLEMS

Tony Wrote:
> hot and it melded the negative battery terminal connection and it keep
> turning over after I shut the ignition off. And now it won't do anything
,

Sounds like to me that a combo of a less than "quality" replacement
solenoid and you possibly exceeding the proper duty cycle of the start
system (time starter is engaged, then time left to cool down before
engaging again). I would bet the solenoid fried itself and you have other
problems as well. as far as what started this, the "hot start" problem I
would be glad to look at it for you, sounds like carburation etc.. I think
you are at Lejuene, correct? if so give me a call 910 327-3101, I am on
convalescent leave so nothing better to do than BS..

John Miller
96 F-350 Reg Cab XLT, 4x4, 460 w/ A4OD, My Baby "Baloo"
75 F-100 Reg Cab Ranger, 2wd, 360, C6, Daily Driver " Lucy"
and "always" looking ! ! !
+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 13:57:07 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: FI for the Dekemobile...was: Re: Paint&Body

- ----------
> From: Deacon
> To: fordtrucks61-79

ListService.net
> Subject: Re: Paint&Body
> Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 1:21 PM
>
You're gonna need an electric fuel pump, the stock one is in-tank, an
additional fuel line to run back to the tank, fuel rail, all of the
sensors, (TPI, MAP, EGO, MAF), & throttle body. Prolly some other stuff too
but that's what I can think of off the top of my head.

>
> Now that I let that cat out of the bag, I would like to get some
> input on doing this. Anyone know all the parts I'll need to get from the
> junkyard? I'm thinking I'll need an EEC, harness and injectors. Anything
> else? Bring it on boyz. The good, bad and the ugly.
>
>
> Deacon
> deconblu

gte.net
> =============================
> Nuke the unborn baby whales.
> =============================
> Deacon's
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
>
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79

listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
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+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 13:44:14 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Snaps around the rear window on the inside of the cab

A camper boot.

Deacon
deconblu

gte.net
=============================
Nuke the unborn baby whales.
=============================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Keith Srb
To: fordtrucks61-79

....

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