fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, April 22 1998 Volume 02 : Number 227



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In this issue:

Re: amsoil ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
re: '66 Ranger pickup for sale [ "SGT WILLIAM A WHI]
RE: amsoil ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Reading Materisl [ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)]
RE: Time for some new glass ["kingw" ]
Re: motor of choice??? [Stu Varner ]
RE: Time for some new glass ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: '66 Ranger pickup for sale [ROSITCH SSRL.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU]
Re: motor of choice??? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Sparem tire mount bed [am14 chrysler.com]
RE: motor of choice??? [Sleddog ]
RE: amsoil [Sleddog ]
RE: Time for some new glass [Sleddog ]
Battery [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Strange fuse trouble ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
re: cross country sex-mobile 70F100 [craig001 mc.duke.edu]
Re: Lubricating Temp Control Cable ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Mileage ["James A. Doty" ]
RE: Time for new glass.... [Brian Koss ]
Re: cross country sex-mobile 70F100 [ROSITCH SSRL.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU]
Re: Mileage ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: degree a cam ["Deacon" ]
re: cross country sex-mobile 70F100 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Rag joint [RL ]
Re Hood Latch ["Hogan, Tom" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 08:12:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: amsoil

> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 16:17:16 +0000
> From: Garr&Pam
> Subject: Re: amsoil

> What about redline synthetics? According to the guys on the SVT list
> it is great stuff and not too expensive either. Chris

The Pegasus racing catalog has if for about the same price as the
AMSOIL, $7.00/qt or thereabouts. The last price I saw on Mobil ! was
a bit cheaper at $4.50 or so. I just put some AMSOIL in the Tbird
last night and as usuall the 5 qts over filled it by about a qt based
on the tube type dipstick. This can be disconcerting but I counted
the empty bottles and the holes left in the case and there can be no
doubt that I put only 5 qts in it. That means I've been driving a qt
down most of the time :-( (I change it so infrequently I can't
remember from one time to the next how the dipstick looks)

This will be the test for all their claims. If it stays over filled
for at least 3k miles I'll be happy but I plan to leave it in till it
gets black or 25k miles and just change filters every 7-8k. By then
it will be paid off and I'll be ready for a new one anyway.....:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 98 8:19:16 -0400
From: "SGT WILLIAM A WHITED"
Subject: re: '66 Ranger pickup for sale

Does it have the Ranger hood ornament? I know some posted something else
about it before. I have a 74 F100 RANGER SUPER CAB with a nice hole in the
hood screaming for a hood ornament. If anybody has any info about where I
can get one or where I might be able to find one I'd GREATLY appreciate it.
Thanks in advance.

74 F100 RANGER SUPER CAB 390
- -------------
Original Text
From , on 4/22/98 3:44 AM:
To: SMTP3 SMTP3 MCB LEJEUNE[]

Hello everyone,
I see no one else replied to this guys note about the '66 Ranger for
sale in Sacramento???? The Ranger package in '66 was essentially a
pair of Mustang bucket seats and a Galaxie center console, carpeting
and emblems (did I leave anything out?). I was thinking of making my
'66 F250 into one of these until I tried a set of bucket seats for a
while (not as comfortable as the bench!). I still have the emblems
that say "Ranger", they are plastic and are installed in place of the
"twin I beam" emblem on the fenders. I have the sales brochure from
'66 and the Ranger package sure LOOKS nice...

Don Rositch



+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 08:38:38 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: amsoil

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: amsoil
> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 18:08:57 -0400

> i have not used it myself, but have no doubt that is similiar to
> amsoil in quality. i feel that the differences in the top
> sunthetics (amsoil, mobilo, redline) are very small and will be
> unnoticable. i buy mobil, and amsoil, depending price basically asa
> mobil 1 is on sale at the stores sometimes cheaper than amsoil.

I'm using the series 2000 which is more expensive and has higher
shear etc.. The web FAQ doesn't get into these catagories so it's
hard to compare but my data sheet gives it a VI of 188 which
is much better than the 139 of red line or 160 of Mobil 1. The flash
points are all quite high at 450 or more. The data sheet gets into
the 4 ball wear test spec which I think may be significant and shows
AMSOIL to rate pretty well but their sheet doens't include the Mobil
1 or redline products (wonder why?) in the 0W30 grade but in the
20W50 grade they are rated .514, 1.474 and 1.513 respectively with
lower numbers being less wear. Amaco Ultimate Gold is worst at 2.07
so a fancy name doesn't guarantee much does it :-(

This test runs a shaft in 4 ball bearings (I presume) at 1800 rpm at
150 deg C which is pretty hot and with 60 kg pressure, not sure what
that means exactly but presume it's weight applied to the shaft and
they measure the diameter change of the wear area for comparison.

Anybody familiar with this test? (ASTM D 4172)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 07:46:44 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: Reading Materisl

>I find justg reading old motor manuals or the history of automobiles (ford) is
>quite interesrting to me. Not much running around to find them either. SEMPER
>FI.

>Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 22:15:02 EDT
>From: DGholsM
>Subject: Re: Recomend some reading

Moses Ludel's "F-Series Owners Bible" is good reading. Even Better is Jim
Allen's "Classic 4X4's" "A Buyer's Guide". It covers the history of all
makes involved in 4X wheeling. Covers Military stuff up to the '70's. I saw
a book called "The History of Ford" but I can't remember the author. Good
Luck with the surgery.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 09:09:54 -0500
From: "kingw"
Subject: RE: Time for some new glass

Dan,
Some suggestions if you try making a back window
from Plexiglas.
First, practice cutting (and drilling. See below) it.
I've cut Plexiglas w/ a jig saw before, but the blade
heats up and then melts some of the cut Plexiglas
(thus 'rebonding' some of the areas you already cut
and slowing the cutting process). One solution is to
go slow and let the blade cool.
You might also rig a way to cool the blade.
Second, I wouldn't recommend mounting the Plexiglas
by nuts and bolts (or any other arrangement that
requires holes in the Plexiglas).
I've had a whole sheet of Plexiglas crack on me when
drilling holes (it was a thick sheet, ~ .25 inches thick,
and it was old, but it still destroyed the whole
project. I recall that the drill bit was dull too [no flames
please]. I've seen lots of other people drill holes without
any trouble, so I guess you'd be OK if you were careful).
More importantly, it seems that small cracks radiate out
from drilled holes over time. People sometimes make
windows for their boats from Plexiglas, and the boat-building
list I am on often has someone complain about these
cracks. The solution seems to be to bond the Plexiglas, and
avoid the holes all together.

Good luck.
Bill
- --> still need a catchy sig. here

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 08:25:26 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: motor of choice???

At 11:39 PM 4/21/98 -0700, you wrote:

I know I am a diehard FE guy but soemthing for the later years, I would
suggest a 351 W.
If I do something later than a 73 in the future, I will probably go with a
351 W regardless of body style because I am too IMMATURE to handle to earth
shattering performance of a 429/460 (as well as too poor to afford gas) and
the windsor will give good power and fairly decent fuel economy. Parts are
also easy to get, especially hot rod go fast parts.
Heck, Put an AMC motor in it Just please please please don't put in a chebby
motor!! It makes me wanna barf when chebby engines appear in Ford
bodies......

>Boy did you open up a can of worms!
He he he he he !!!
YUP!!
I think I'll sit back and watch (while giggling) now after posting my $.02!

Stu
Nuke GM!

ucs.orst.edu>
>> To: 'ford trucks'
>> Subject: motor of choice???
>> Date: Tuesday, April 21, 1998 10:37 PM
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 09:38:56 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Time for some new glass

> From: "kingw"
> Subject: RE: Time for some new glass
> Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 09:09:54 -0500

> Some suggestions if you try making a back window
> from Plexiglas.
> First, practice cutting (and drilling. See below) it.

The racing guys say to use Lexan as opposed to plain plexiglass. The
lexan is more flexible and won't crack as easily and is very impact
resistant, much more so than plexiglass. I understand one place you
can get this is from sign shop suppliers.

To cut plexiglass in a straight line where you have a whole edge to
play with it can be cut like ordinary glass but you have to firmly
support the whole edge or it will crack. I score a line where I
want it to separate and lay the part on a bench (flat and clean) with
the score exactly on the edge of the bench then place a flat board
over it sandwiching the glass between them and clamp it. The offal
breaks very nicely that way. On short peices this isn't as
necessary. I don't know if lexan can be cut this way or not but to
reduce the heat with a saber saw you could try reducing the speed of
the blade if you have a variable speed version and use a medium tooth
count with pitch just a little less than the thickness of the glass.
Taping the area to be cut sometimes helps too to protect the finish
and keep the chipping and cracking down. I've also used a
sacrificial piece of plywood for this with some success.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 06:55:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: ROSITCH SSRL.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU
Subject: Re: '66 Ranger pickup for sale

The '66 did not have a "Ranger" hood ornament from what I can tell.
Later full size Rangers were much more common and I don't know what
the packages included.

Don Rositch

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:01:24 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: motor of choice???

> Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 08:25:26 -0600 (CST)
> From: Stu Varner
> Subject: Re: motor of choice???

> I know I am a diehard FE guy but soemthing for the later years, I
> would suggest a 351 W. If I do something later than a 73 in the
> future, I will probably go with a 351 W regardless of body style
> because I am too IMMATURE to handle to earth shattering performance
> of a 429/460 (as well as too poor to afford gas) and the windsor
> will give good power and fairly decent fuel economy. Parts are

Best 351W mileage I had was 16 in a van with 3.5 gears and C-6. I
get 12 with my 460 and 10 with my M. My daughter gets 13 with a 4.6
V-6. The 460 in certain models of merc and lincoln have given up to
17 on the highway I'm told and I have reason to believe it from my
experience. Some on the bronco list claim 14 with 302 and one even
said 24 with something or other.

Here's the facts: A truck is a brick and a brick uses "X" amount of
gas no matter what you put in it so the economy of the various sizes
evens out when you put them in a truck. The neat thing about trucks
is that you can play all you want with no "serious" penalty in
economy as long as you use torquy truck type engines :-)

Don't put a high revving 4v,351C or boss 302 in a truck and expect
much performance or economy, they weigh too much. My first criteria
in determining what engine to use would be what parts will the new
engine require. If one of them is the tranny I look for other
options unless the engine is a special dream of mine. In the case of
the 351M you have two options, the same or a 400 which is strictly
bolt in or the 429/460 which requires about $500 worth of parts to
make right.

The 302/351W requires most of the same parts changes as the 460
except for exhaust parts (if "Y" pipe that will change too) but also
requires a new tranny and probably drive shaft.

No matter what you put in there it will give you 10 - 15 mpg with
reasonable gearing and with some attention to details you can move it
up in the range with any engine combination. Personally I really
like the power of the 460 so a couple of mpg means nothing to me. If
I had to give up 4 or 5 or more I might have to reconsider but I
don't have to give it up so ....................:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:01:57 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Sparem tire mount bed

Jack Writes: >>During the 70's, Ford had an optional spare tire mount
built into the bed, curbside. It had a pretty big door that you could
remove and the spare was mounted upright - very convenient. I
wish Ford still offered something like that today.


I know where one of these is. The truck took a lick straight on and is
totaled out, but the bed is good. It is on a '79, I believe, F350 2wd
pickup bright red in color. If anyone is intrerested in it I'll stop
by some afternoon on my way home and investigate. Just let me know.

Azie
Ardmore.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:11:17 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: motor of choice???

second place goes to the ... 400! and the winner issss...the best sll
round choice for mileage and power, with an emphasis on power ... the 460!!

a stock 460 with 4bbl intake and carb and a small hyd cam. put the 2.19
in, and 1.75 exhaust valve in a set of non CJ heads with a 30deg intake
valve grind and hog the big thermactor lump out of the exhaust ports. use
cj or truck rods, good bolts, a double roller cam chain, roller rocker
conversion (if you have the $$$) and run 9.5:1 cr, or if you like to use
higher octane gas than 87, run 10:1 cr.

i think the biggest mileage factors are the cam and the carb. as for
power, the 460 makes alot, even a stock 460 will out power any other stock
ford motor, and yet still deliver mileage close to the #2 engine.

one question, why not build your 351M into a 400M and work from there?
these engines have more potential than people give them credit for. i saw
a dyno session posted on another ford list with great power numbers from a
400 in a pantera. of course, his mileage must be pretty bad :)

sleddog

- ----------
From: BERNE[SMTP:strome ucs.orst.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 1998 1:37 AM
To: 'ford trucks'
Subject: motor of choice???

snipped
SO..for milage, and power...what motor...and what are some good building
tips to get a little more go out of it??? Thanks already!!

Berne
strome ucs.orst.edu








+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:17:12 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: amsoil

i underdstand the idea of the test, and the results. but, will you or i
ever be able to tell the difference? maybe between penzoil oil, and amsoil
synthetic, but most likely not between the top synth brands. once you have
a certain quality product, improving it may not be noticeable. remember
the law of diminishing returns?

sleddog



- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 1998 4:38 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: RE: amsoil

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: amsoil
> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 18:08:57 -0400

> i have not used it myself, but have no doubt that is similiar to
> amsoil in quality. i feel that the differences in the top
> sunthetics (amsoil, mobilo, redline) are very small and will be
> unnoticable. i buy mobil, and amsoil, depending price basically asa
> mobil 1 is on sale at the stores sometimes cheaper than amsoil.

I'm using the series 2000 which is more expensive and has higher
shear etc.. The web FAQ doesn't get into these catagories so it's
hard to compare but my data sheet gives it a VI of 188 which
is much better than the 139 of red line or 160 of Mobil 1. The flash
points are all quite high at 450 or more. The data sheet gets into
the 4 ball wear test spec which I think may be significant and shows
AMSOIL to rate pretty well but their sheet doens't include the Mobil
1 or redline products (wonder why?) in the 0W30 grade but in the
20W50 grade they are rated .514, 1.474 and 1.513 respectively with
lower numbers being less wear. Amaco Ultimate Gold is worst at 2.07
so a fancy name doesn't guarantee much does it :-(

This test runs a shaft in 4 ball bearings (I presume) at 1800 rpm at
150 deg C which is pretty hot and with 60 kg pressure, not sure what
that means exactly but presume it's weight applied to the shaft and
they measure the diameter change of the wear area for comparison.

Anybody familiar with this test? (ASTM D 4172)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:25:22 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Time for some new glass

i have had better luck cutting long cuts in plexiglass buy using a circular saw instead of a recipricating saw.

sleddog


To cut plexiglass in a straight line where you have a whole edge to
play with it can be cut like ordinary glass but you have to firmly
support the whole edge or it will crack. I score a line where I
want it to separate and lay the part on a bench (flat and clean) with
the score exactly on the edge of the bench then place a flat board
over it sandwiching the glass between them and clamp it. The offal
breaks very nicely that way

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:26:14 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Battery

Roberto writes: >>The starter has only continued to run on it's own
just the one time during the jumper cable process. I got the truck
started just fine this pm after re-charging the battery. If it follows
it's usual course, the truck will be trouble free for a couple days
while the battery gradually drains.

The starter remaining engaged after the key is turned back to run from
start is a classic example of low voltage. Either a loose or corroded
connection or low battery. I've had this happen several times. A light
tap on the relay(solenoid) will disengage the starter.

You seem to have a current drain. Try loosening the battery cable after
dark and with everything electrical in the vehicle off, remove and
apply the cable several times and see if you are getting a slight arc
(spark) as you connect/disconnect the cable. This is a sure fire
method of determining current draw. If you are getting an arc (spark),
then start the process of elimination by disconnecting electrical
things until you no longer get the arc (spark) upon
connecting/disconnecting the battery cabkle.

Good luck

Azie,
Ardmore, Al

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:40:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Strange fuse trouble

> From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
> Subject: Strange fuse trouble
> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 22:10:17 -0500

> The other day my turn signals stopped working. I pulled the fuse and
> put another in, they worked. The fuse I pulled looked OK, I put it
> back in and they worked. Last night my dash lights went out. I
> pushed in on the fuse and they worked again. Question: Both were a

I found that the rivet that holds the fuse clip to the buss in the
fuse block loosened enough to allow arcing between the clip and buss
so the connection is now very poor. I temporarily fixed mine by
wedging a piece of paper (wadded up) into one side of the fuse recess
to push the clip and fuse to one side tighening up the connection.

I will have to take the dang thing out and tighten up the rivets one
day but right now it's hanging in there.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: craig001 mc.duke.edu
Subject: re: cross country sex-mobile 70F100

OK, the sex-mobile comment was in there to grab your
attention, but I was hoping SOMEONE would read my truck
questions, so here goes:

Seems that the guy (who remains nameless) who drove the
truck east from CA was accompanied by a female friend. She
didn't know how to drive a manual trans, nor did she have $$
for gas. He was not too mechanically inclined. A deal was
struck. He would drive and pay for gas, she would work on
the truck if anything went wrong. Well, the truck performed
flawlessly, so she (ahem) 'serviced' the driver instead. I
guess that's why it took them two weeks to make the trip.

Enough of that, on to the truck:

Stuck my head between the clutch and brake and here's what I
found - the fuse block is not a separate piece with
connectors, like I thought, but is part of a wiring bundle.
The wires are actually terminated with crimp connections to
the fuse clips, which snap in to the plastic fuse block. So
... does anyone know if there is a source for those fuse
clips with a crimp connector? I'm going to try to make one
out of some bits I have laying around. Otherwise I will have
to find a whole wiring harness. Long Motor/Vic Brit has a
universal harness, but it is MUCH more $$ (440+) and more
involved than I want to get.

Lazy, cheap and proud of it!

Hopefully, I will find a good manual soon so I can answer
some of these questions myself. Is the Factory Service
Manual the best? Sources?

Damian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:58:02 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Lubricating Temp Control Cable

> From: "Bill Beyer"
> Subject: Re: Lubricating Temp Control Cable
> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 23:29:31 -0700

> FTC: Can anyone tell me whether or not it's worth the time & effort
> to degree the cam. I just read about it on some page and it sounds
> like allot of work. I've always just lined up the marks on the cam &
> crank gear and called it good!

Degreeing the cam with a stock timing chain setup is pointless since
you can't change it anyway with out offset keys etc.. You still must
rely on the Manufacturer to put the dowel hole in the right place on
the cam and locate it in the sprocket correctly too or the whole
thing is up in smoke again. If you want zero timing then get a set
that puts it there and be done with it.

The only thing you may gain from checking it is to see where your
timing set puts the cam relative to the crank since some years are
different for the same engine due to smog laws or if you are
installing new timing set with various degree keyways you can make
some adjustments as you see fit within the range of keyways it has.

To make fine adjustments for that extra few HP in your drag racing
class you need offset keys.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 07:59:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: "James A. Doty"
Subject: Mileage

>
> Best 351W mileage I had was 16 in a van with 3.5 gears and C-6. I
> get 12 with my 460 and 10 with my M. My daughter gets 13 with a 4.6
> V-6. The 460 in certain models of merc and lincoln have given up to
> 17 on the highway I'm told and I have reason to believe it from my
> experience. Some on the bronco list claim 14 with 302 and one even
> said 24 with something or other.

Hi there:

In the last 19 years I've owned two vans. The first was a short '75
E-150 that we put a 302 into. It got about 17mpg.

The second is a '78 E-150 with a 351W, Edlebrock 600cfm carb. and
Edlebrock dual plane intake manifold. The best I've ever done was 14mpg
on a trip I took recently from Vancouver, WA to Spokane, WA. The '78
usually gets 11mpg.

How did you get 16mpg from yours? I'm always looking for ways to improve
mileage.

Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 08:01:45 -0700
From: Brian Koss
Subject: RE: Time for new glass....

There are two typical types of plastics. Polycarbonates (Lexan) and
acrylics (Plexiglass). Both are more shatter resistant than glass but with
drawbacks. The acrylic will yellow faster than the polycarbonate.
Polycarbonates are more fracture resistant than acrylic for thinner sheets.
You can purchase both of these in UV resistant grades which performm much
better than standard types. The major draw back to plastics in my mind is
there poor scratch resistance. You can get scratch resistant coatings that
help but eventually the window is "fogged from scratches". If you don't
look through the window while driving, this may not be a problem. If I
could get a glass window for the rear window of my Fiat Spyder I would. The
top lasts forever but the window lasts three years, even with babying it
during washing and putting it up and down.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 08:18:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: ROSITCH SSRL.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU
Subject: Re: cross country sex-mobile 70F100

Damian (and everyone else),
The Paddock (Mustang parts house) has fuse clips available separately.
Their number is: 800-428-4319.

Good Luck,
Don Rositch

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 11:20:14 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Mileage

> Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 07:59:42 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "James A. Doty"
> Subject: Mileage

> The second is a '78 E-150 with a 351W, Edlebrock 600cfm carb. and
> Edlebrock dual plane intake manifold. The best I've ever done was
> 14mpg on a trip I took recently from Vancouver, WA to Spokane, WA.
> The '78 usually gets 11mpg.
>
> How did you get 16mpg from yours? I'm always looking for ways to
> improve mileage.

It was the stock 75 2v setup. All I did was drive the wheels off of
it. That same van with 351C got about 10 and with the 429 about 11
and with the 460 but with 4.11 gears only 6. The 460 was set up all
wrong and had a cold intake, bad dist curve and poorly tuned Holley.
Even with 33's on it the mileage was only up to about 9 on a really
good day.

As I said any engine in a truck is going to burn gas but the
differences between the better ones like the 302 and the so called
bad ones like the 460 aren't all that great in a truck. 351W's have
never been considered economical and the HO's are notorious for poor
economy in trucks even late model EFI versions. It just takes "X"
amount of BTU's to make a truck cut the wind with over 4k pounds of
iron. Theoretically the larger engines have the best potential for
economy in a truck since they don't have to work as hard to make the
torque required but the factorys don't seem to take advantage of that
so it's up to us to figure it out.

I'll let every one know as soon as I do........:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 08:36:05 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: degree a cam

From: Bill Beyer
>Besides didn't your momma ever tell you that imitation is the sincerest
>form of flattery.

Na, she just tells me to get a hair cut.

>FTC: Can anyone tell me whether or not it's worth the time & effort to
>degree the cam. I just read about it on some page and it sounds like
allot
>of work. I've always just lined up the marks on the cam & crank gear
and
>called it good!

I agree to some degree, lining the marks works for me. So you see
it's not for me, to set a cam to a certain degree, that's too much work
for the likes of me! But if performance is what you'd like to see, a
custom grind timed to a "T", then it's a must to degree, a custom cam.
Do you agree? Stock as always worked for me, what I like is
dependability. I hope this helps to some degree, but if it don't, don't
blame me!


Deacon
deconblu gte.net
=============================
Nuke the unborn baby whales.
=============================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 11:47:28 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: re: cross country sex-mobile 70F100

> From: craig001 mc.duke.edu
> Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:46 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: re: cross country sex-mobile 70F100

> which snap in to the plastic fuse block. So ... does anyone
> know if there is a source for those fuse clips with a crimp
> connector? I'm going to try to make one out of some bits I have
> laying around. Otherwise I will have to find a whole wiring
> harness. Long Motor/Vic Brit has a universal harness, but it is
> MUCH more $$ (440+) and more involved than I want to get.

Painless has a variety of fuse blocks and OEM configuration wireing
solutions. Maybe a call to them would get you started?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 11:38:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: RL
Subject: Re: Rag joint

My brother replaced the rag joint on my truck and several things have
happened. 1) the 3-on-the-tree shifter has become very tight and doesn't
move as freely as it used to. 2) says the steering wheel has more play in
it 3) the gear shift now falls out of 2nd and won't stay in place.

Does this mean that the job was done incorrectly or other problems like in
#3 that the transmisson could be going bad.
Thanks
Ryan



1971 Torino 500, 1971 F-100, 1977 Hornet Sportabout,
1978 New Yorker e-mail: st0478 student-mail.jsu.edu
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/9027
Fairlane Club of America, American Station Wagon Owners
Association

------------------------------....


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